Sauces
As the three chief foundation sauces in cookery, Espagnole or brown
sauce, Velute or white sauce, and Bechamel, are alluded to so often in
these pages, it will be well to give simple Italian recipes for them.
Australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is mentioned:
Harvest Burgundy for red, and Chasselas for Chablis.
No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce
The chief ingredient of this useful sauce is good stock, to which add
any remnants and bones of fowl or game. Butter the bottom of a stewpan
with at least two ounces of butter, and in it put slices of lean
veal, ham, bacon, cuttings of beef, fowl, or game trimmings, three
peppercorns, mushroom trimmings, a tomato, a carrot and a turnip cut up,
an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley
and marjoram. Put the lid on the stewpan and braize well for fifteen
minutes, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, and pour in a quarter
pint of good boiling stock and boil very gently for fifteen minutes,
then strain through a tamis, skim off all the grease, pour the sauce
into an earthenware vessel, and let it get cold. If it is not rich
enough, add a little Liebig or glaze. Pass through a sieve again before
using.
No. 2. Velute Sauce
The same as above, but use white stock, no beef, and only pheasant or
fowl trimmings, button mushrooms, cream instead of glaze, and a chopped
shallot.
No. 3. Bechamel Sauce
Ingredients: Butter, ham, veal, carrots, shallot, celery bay leaf,
cloves, thyme, peppercorns, potato flour, cream, fowl stock.
Prepare a mirepoix by mixing two ounces of butter, trimmings of lean
veal and ham, a carrot, a shallot, a little celery, all cut into dice, a
bay leaf, two cloves, four peppercorns, and a little thyme. Put this on
a moderate fire so as not to let it colour, and when all the moisture
is absorbed add a tablespoonful of potato flour. Mix well, and gradually
add equal quantities of cream and fowl stock, and stir till it boils.
Then let it simmer gently. Stir occasionally, and if it gets too thick,
add more cream and white stock. After two hours pass it twice slowly
through a tamis so as to get the sauce very smooth.
No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking)
Ingredients: Bacon, onions, carrots, ham, a bunch of herbs, parsley,
mushrooms, cloves, peppercorns, stock, Chablis.
Put the following ingredients into a stewpan: Some bits of bacon and
lean ham, a carrot, all cut into dice, half an onion, a bunch of herbs,
a few mushroom cuttings, two cloves, and four peppercorns. To this
add one and a quarter pint of good stock and a glass of Chablis, boil
rapidly for ten minutes then simmer till it is reduced to a third. Pass
through a sieve and use for masking meat, fowl, fish, &c.
No. 5. Genoese Sauce
Ingredients: Onion, butter, Burgundy, mushrooms, truffles, parsley, bay
leaf, Espagnole sauce (No.1), blond of veal, essence of fish, anchovy
butter, crayfish or lobster butter.
Cut up a small onion and fry it in butter, add a glass of Burgundy, some
cuttings of mushrooms and truffles, a pinch of chopped parsley and half
a bay leaf. Reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole
sauce, one cup of veal stock, and a tablespoonful of essence of fish,
reduce one-third and add it to the other saucepan, skim off all the
grease, boil for a few minutes, and pass through a sieve. Then stir
it over the fire, and add half a teaspoonful of crayfish and half of
anchovy butter.
No. 6. Italian Sauce
Ingredients: Chablis, mushrooms, leeks, a bunch of herbs, peppercorns,
Espagnole sauce, game gravy or stock, lemon.
Put into a stewpan two glasses of Chablis, two tablespoonsful of
mushroom trimmings, a leek cut up, a bunch of herbs, five peppercorns,
and boil till it is reduced to half. In another stewpan mix two glasses
of Espagnole (No. 1) or Velute sauce (No 2) and half a glass of game
gravy, boil for a few minutes then blend the contents of the two
stewpans, pass through a sieve, and add the juice of a lemon.
No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto
Ingredients: Ham, Musca or sweet port, vinegar, basil spice.
Cut up an ounce of ham and pound it in a mortar then mix it with three
dessert spoonsful of port or Musca and a teaspoonful of vinegar a little
dried basil and a pinch of spice. Boil it up, and then pass it through
a sieve and warm it up in a bain-marie. Serve with roast meats. If you
cannot get a sweet wine add half a teaspoonful of sugar. Australian
Muscat is a good wine to use.
No. 8. Tarragon Sauce
Ingredients: Tarragon, stock, butter, flour.
To half a pint of good stock add two good sprays of fresh tarragon,
simmer for quarter of an hour in a stewpan and keep the lid on.
In another stewpan melt one ounce of butter and mix it with three
dessert-spoonsful of flour, then gradually pour the stock from the first
stewpan over it, but take out the tarragon. Mix well, add a teaspoonful
of finely chopped tarragon and boil for two minutes.
No. 9. Tomato Sauce
Ingredients: Tomatoes, ham, onions, basil, salt, oil, garlic, spices.
Broil three tomatoes, skin them and mix them with a tablespoonful of
chopped ham, half an onion, salt, a dessert-spoonful of oil, a little
pounded spice and basil. Then boil and pass through a sieve. Whilst the
sauce is boiling, put in a clove of garlic with a cut, but remove it
before you pass the sauce through the sieve.
No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante
Ingredients: Ham, butter, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme,
cloves, peppercorns, vinegar, Chablis, stock, tomatoes, Velute or
Espagnole sauce, castor sugar, lemon.
Cut up an ounce of ham, half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of
celery very fine, and fry them in butter together with a bay leaf, a
sprig of thyme, one clove and four peppercorns. Over this pour a third
of a cup of vinegar, and when the liquid is all absorbed, add half a
glass of Chablis and a cup of stock. Then add six tomatoes cut up and
strained of all their liquid. Cook this in a covered stewpan and pass
it through a sieve, but see that none of the bay leaf or thyme goes
through. Mix this sauce with an equal quantity of Velute (No. 2) or
Espagnole sauce, (No. 1), let it boil and pass through a sieve again
and at the last add a teaspoonful of castor sugar, the juice of half a
lemon, and an ounce of fresh butter. (Another tomato sauce may be made
like this, but use stock instead of vinegar and leave out the lemon
juice and sugar.)
No. 11. Mushroom Sauce
Ingredients: Velute sauce, essence of mushrooms, butter.
Mix two dessert-spoonsful of essence of mushrooms with a cupful of
Velute sauce (No. 2), reduce, keep on stirring, and just before serving
add an ounce of butter. This sauce can be made with essence of truffle,
or game, or shallot.
No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce
Ingredients: Onions, ham, butter, Marsala, blond of veal, thyme, bay
leaf, peppercorns, cloves, mushrooms, Espagnole sauce (No. 1), tomato
sauce, game stock or essence.
Fry an onion in butter with some bits of cut-up ham, then pour a glass
of Marsala over it, and another of blond of veal, add a sprig of thyme,
a bay leaf, four peppercorns, a clove, a tablespoonful of mushroom
cuttings, and reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole
sauce, one cupful of tomato sauce, and half a cup of game stock or
essence. Reduce a third, and add the contents of the first saucepan,
boil the sauce a few minutes, and pass it through a sieve. Warm it up in
a bain-marie before using.
No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce
Ingredients: Anchovies, fennel, flour, spices, parsley, marjoram,
garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, cream.
Wash three anchovies in vinegar, bone and pound them in a mortar with
a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and a pinch of cinnamon. Then mix in a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley and marjoram, a squeeze of lemon juice,
a teaspoonful of flour, half a gill of boiled cream and the bones of
the fish for which you will use this sauce. Pass through a sieve, add a
clove of garlic with a cut in it, and boil. If the fish you are using
is cooked in the oven, add a little of the liquor in which it has been
cooked to the sauce. Take out the garlic before serving. Instead of
anchovies you may use caviar, pickled tunny, or any other pickled fish.
No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce)
Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, stock, burnt sugar, vinegar, raisins, pine
nuts or almonds.
Mix two spoonsful of burnt sugar with one of vinegar, and dilute with a
little good stock. Then add two cups of Espagnole sauce (No. 1), a few
stoned raisins, and a few pinocchi* (pine nuts) or shredded almonds.
Keep this hot in a bain-marie, and serve with cutlets, calf's head or
feet or tongue.
*The pinocchi which Italians use instead of almonds can be bought in
London when in season.
No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way)
Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, an onion, butter, flour, lemon, herbs,
nutmeg, raisins, pine nuts or almonds, burnt sugar.
Cut up a small bit of onion, fry it slightly in butter and a little
flour, add the juice of a lemon and a little of the peel grated, a
bouquet of herbs, a pinch of nutmeg, a few stoned raisins, shredded
almonds or pinocchi, and a tablespoonful of burnt sugar. Add this to a
good Espagnole (No. 1), and warm it up in a bain-marie.
No. 16. Supreme Sauce
Ingredients: White sauce, fowl stock, butter.
Put three-quarters of a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and when
it is nearly boiling add half a cup of concentrated fowl stock. Reduce
until the sauce is quite thick, and when about to serve pass it through
a tamis into a bain-marie and add two tablespoonsful of cream.
No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys)
Ingredients: Semolina flour, eggs, salt, butter (or olive oil), vinegar,
water.
Mix the following ingredients well together: two ounces of semolina
flour, the yolks of two eggs, a little salt, and two ounces of melted
butter. Add a glass of water so as to form a liquid substance. At the
last add the whites of two eggs beaten up to a snow. This will make a
good paste for masking meat, fish, vegetables, or sweets which are to
be fried in the Italian manner, but if for meat or vegetables add a few
drops of vinegar or a little lemon juice.
No. 18. White Villeroy
Ingredients: Butter, flour, eggs, cream, nutmeg, white stock.
Make a light-coloured roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces
of flour, stir in some white stock and keep it very smooth. Let it boil,
and add the yolks of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream
and a pinch of nutmeg. Pass it through a sieve and use for masking
cutlets, fish, &c.
Soups
No. 19. Clear Soup
Ingredients: Stock meat, water, a bunch of herbs (thyme, parsley,
chervil, bay leaf, basil, marjoram), three carrots, three turnips, three
onions, three cloves stuck in the onions, one blade of mace.
Cut up three pounds of stock meat small and put it in a stock pot with
two quarts of cold water, three carrots, and three turnips cut up, three
onions with a clove stuck in each one, a bunch of herbs and a blade of
mace. Let it come to the boil and then draw it off, at once skim off
all the scum, and keep it gently simmering, and occasionally add two
or three tablespoonsful of cold water. Let it simmer all day, and then
strain it through a fine cloth.
Some of the liquor in which a calf's head has been cooked, or even a
calf's foot, will greatly improve a clear soup.
The stock should never be allowed to boil as long as the meat and
vegetables are in the stock pot.
No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup)
Ingredients: Clear soup, vegetables.
Any fresh spring vegetables will do for this soup, but they must all be
cooked separately and put into the soup at the last minute. It is best
made with fresh peas, asparagus tips, and a few strips of tarragon.
No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda
Ingredients: Clear soup, fowl forcemeat, Bechamel (No. 3), peas, lobster
butter, eggs, asparagus.
Make a firm forcemeat of fowl and divide it into three parts, to the
first add two spoonsful of cream Bechamel, to the second four spoonsful
of puree of green peas, to the third two spoonsful of lobster butter and
the yolk of an egg; thus you will have the Italian colours, red, white,
and green. Butter a pie dish and make little quenelles of the forcemeat.
Just before serving boil them for four minutes in boiling stock, take
them out carefully and put them in a warm soup tureen with two spoonsful
of cooked green peas and pour a very fresh clear soup over them. Hand
little croutons fried in lobster butter separately.
No. 22. Tuscan Soup
Ingredients: Stock, eggs.
Whip up three or four eggs, gradually add good stock to them, and keep
on whisking them up until they begin to curdle. Keep the soup hot in a
bain-marie.
No. 23. Venetian Soup
Ingredients: Clear soup, butter, flour, Parmesan, eggs.
Make a roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour, add
an ounce of grated cheese and half a cup of good stock. Mix up well so
as to form a paste, and then take it off the fire and add the yolks of
four eggs, mix again and form the again and form the paste into little
quenelles. Boil these in a little soup, strain off, put them into the
tureen and pour a good clear soup over them.
No. 24. Roman Soup
Ingredients: Stock, butter, eggs, salt, crumb of bread, parsley, nutmeg,
flour, Parmesan.
Mix three and a half ounces of butter with two eggs and four ounces of
crumbs of bread soaked in stock, a little chopped parsley, salt, and a
pinch of nutmeg. Reduce this and add two tablespoonsful of flour and
one of grated Parmesan. Form this into little quenelles and boil them
in stock for a few minutes put them into a tureen and pour a good clear
soup over them.
No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale
Ingredients: Clear soup, savoury custard.
Make a savoury custard and divide it into three parts, one to be left
white, another coloured red with tomato, and the third green with
spinach. Put a layer of each in a buttered saucepan and cook for about
ten minutes, cut it into dice, so that you have the three Italian
colours (red, white, and green) together, then put the custard into a
soup tureen and pour a good clear soup over it.
No. 26. Soup alla Modanese
Ingredients: Stock, spinach, butter, salt, eggs, Parmesan, nutmeg,
croutons.
Wash one pound of spinach in five or six waters, then chop it very fine
and mix it with three ounces of butter, salt it and warm it up. Then
let it get cold, pass through a hair sieve, and add two eggs, a
tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and very little nutmeg. Add this to
some boiling stock in a copper saucepan, put on the lid, and on the top
put some hot coals so that the eggs may curdle and help to thicken the
soup. Serve with fried croutons.
No. 27. Crotopo Soup
Ingredients: Clear soup, veal, ham, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, rolls.
Pound half a pound of lean veal in a mortar, then add three ounces of
cooked ham with some fat in it, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and
very little nutmeg. Pass through a sieve, cut some small French rolls
into slices, spread them with the above mixture, and colour them in the
oven. Then cut them in halves or quarters, put them into a tureen, and
just before serving pour a very good clear soup over them.
No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice
Ingredients: Breast of fowl, eggs, salt, pepper, ground rice, nutmeg,
clear stock.
Pound the breast of a fowl in a mortar, and add to it a teaspoonful of
ground rice, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.
Pass this through a sieve, form quenelles with it, and pour a good clear
soup over them.
No. 29. Neapolitan Soup
Ingredients: Fowl, potato flour, eggs, Bechamel sauce, peas, asparagus,
spinach, clear soup.
Mix a quarter pound of forcemeat of fowl with a tablespoonful of potato
flour, a tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and the yolk of an
egg; put this into a tube about the size round of an ordinary macaroni;
twenty minutes before serving squirt the forcemeat into a saucepan with
boiling stock, and nip off the forcemeat as it comes through the pipe
into pieces about an inch and a half long. Let it simmer, and add boiled
peas and asparagus tips. If you like to have the fowl macaroni white
and green, you can colour half the forcemeat with a spoonful of spinach
colouring. Serve in a good clear soup.
No. 30. Soup with Risotto
Ingredients: Risotto (No. 189), eggs, bread crumbs, clear or brown soup.
If you have some good risotto left, you can use it up by making it into
little balls the size of small nuts. Egg and bread crumb and fry them in
butter; dry them and put them into a soup tureen with hot soup. The soup
may be either clear or brown.
No. 31. Soup alla Canavese
Ingredients: White stock, butter, onions, carrot, celery, tomato,
cauliflower, fat bacon, parsley, sage, Parmesan, salt, pepper.
Chop up half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of celery, a small
bit of fat bacon, and fry them in two ounces of butter. Then cover them
with good white stock, boil for a few minutes, pass through a sieve, and
add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree. Then blanch half a cauliflower
in salted water, let it get cold, drain all the water out of it, and
break it up into little bunches and put them into a stock pot with the
stock, a small leaf of dried sage, crumbled up, and a little chopped
parsley, and let it all boil; add a pinch of grated cheese and some
pepper. Serve with grated Parmesan handed separately.
No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia
Ingredients: White stock, eggs, butter, peas, white beans, carrot,
onion, leeks, celery, cream croutons.
Soak one pound of white beans for twelve hours, then put them into a
stock pot with a little salt, butter, and water, add a carrot, an onion,
two leeks, and a stick of celery, and simmer until the vegetables are
well cooked; then take out all the fresh vegetables, drain the beans and
pass them through a sieve, but first dilute them with good stock. Put
this puree into a stock pot with good white stock, and when it has
boiled keep it hot in a bain-marie until you are about to serve; then
mix the yolk of three eggs in a cup of cream, and add this to the soup.
Pour the soup into a warm tureen, add some boiled green peas, and serve
with fried croutons handed separately.
No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup)
Ingredients: Stock, sorrel, endive, lettuce, chervil, celery, carrot,
onion, French roll, Parmesan cheese.
Boil the following vegetables and herbs in very good stock for an hour:
Two small bunches of sorrel, a bunch of endive, a lettuce, a small bunch
of chervil, a stick of celery, a carrot and an onion, all well washed
and cut up. Then put some slices of toasted French roll into a tureen
and pour the above soup over them. Serve with grated Parmesan handed
separately.
No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup)
Ingredients: Fowl stock, ground rice, milk, butter.
Put a tablespoonful of ground rice into a saucepan and gradually add
half a pint of milk, boil it gently for twelve minutes in a bainmarie,
but stir the whole time, so as to get it very smooth. Just before
serving add an ounce of butter, pass it through a sieve, and mix it with
good fowl stock.
Minestre
Minestra is a thick broth, very much like hotch-potch, only thicker. In
Italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner instead of soup; it
also makes an excellent lunch dish. Two or three tablespoonsful of No.
35 will be found a great improvement to any of these minestre.
No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.
Ingredients: Onions, celery, carrots, butter, salt, stock, tomatoes,
mushrooms.
Cut up an onion, a stick of celery, and a carrot; fry them in butter and
salt; add a few bits of cooked ham and veal cut up, two mushrooms, and
the pulp of a tomato. Cook for a quarter of an hour, and add a little
stock occasionally to keep it moist. Pass through a sieve, and use for
seasoning minestre, macaroni, rice, &c. It should be added when the dish
is nearly cooked.
No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga
Ingredients: Rice, butter, stock, vegetables.
All sorts of vegetables will serve for this dish. Blanch them in boiling
salted water, then drain and fry them in butter. Add plenty of good
stock, and put them on a slow fire. Boil four ounces of rice in stock,
and when it is well done add the stock with the vegetables. Season with
two or three spoonsful of No. 35, and serve with grated cheese handed
separately.
No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips
Ingredients: Rice, turnips, butter, gravy, tomatoes.
Cut three or four young turnips into slices and put them on a dish,
strew a little salt over them, cover them with another dish, and let
them stand for about two hours until the water has run out of them.
Then drain the slices, put them in a frying-pan and fry them slightly
in butter. Add some good gravy and mashed-up tomatoes, and after having
cooked this for a few minutes pour it into good boiling stock. Add three
ounces of well-washed rice, and boil for half-an-hour.
Minestra loses its flavour if it is boiled too long. In Lombardy,
however, rice, macaroni, &c., are rarely boiled enough for English
tastes.
No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina
Ingredients: Rice, anchovies, butter, stock, and onions.
Scale an anchovy, pound it, and fry it in butter together with a small
onion cut across, and four ounces of boiled rice. Add a little salt, and
when the rice is a golden brown, take out the onion and gradually add
some good stock until the dish is of the consistency of rice pudding.
No. 39. Minestra of Semolina
Ingredients: Stock, semolina, Parmesan.
Put as much stock as you require into a saucepan, and when it begins to
boil add semolina very gradually, and stir to keep it from getting
lumpy Cook it until the semolina is soft, and serve with grated Parmesan
handed separately. To one quart of soup use three ounces of semolina.
No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese
Ingredients: Rice or macaroni, ham, bacon, stock, all sorts of
vegetables.
Minestrone is a favourite dish in Lombardy when vegetables are
plentiful. Boil all sorts of vegetables in stock, and add bits of bacon,
ham, onions braized in butter, chopped parsley, a clove of garlic with
two cuts, and rice or macaroni. Put in those vegetables first which
require most cooking, and do not make the broth too thin. Leave the
garlic in for a quarter of an hour only.
No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage
Ingredients: Rice, cabbage, stock, ham, tomato sauce.
Cut off the stalk and all the hard outside leaves of a cabbage, wash it
and cut it up, but not too small, then drain and cook it in good stock
and add two ounces of boiled rice. This minestre is improved by adding a
little chopped ham and a few spoonsful of tomato sauce.
No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery
Ingredients: Celery, rice, stock.
Cut up a head of celery and remove all the green parts, then boil it in
good stock and add two ounces of rice, and boil till it is well cooked.
Fish
No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).
Ingredients: Eels, butter, flour, stock, bay leaves, salt, pepper,
Chablis, a macedoine of vegetables.
Cut up a big eel and fry it in two ounces of butter, and when it is a
good colour add a tablespoonful of flour, about half a pint of stock, a
glass of Chablis, a bay leaf, pepper, and salt, and boil till it is well
cooked. In the meantime boil separately all sorts of vegetables, such as
carrots, cauliflower, celery, beans, tomatoes, &c. Take out the pieces
of eel, but keep them hot, whilst you pass the liquor which forms the
sauce through a sieve and add the vegetables to this. Let them boil a
little longer and arrange them in a dish; place the pieces of eel on
them and cover with the sauce. It is most important that the eels should
be served very hot.
Any sort of fish will do as well for this dish.
No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish)
Ingredients: Fish, flour, butter, Villeroy.
Any sort of fish will do, turbot, sole, trout, &c. Cut it into fillets,
flour them over and cook them in butter in a covered stewpan; then make
a Villeroy (No. 18), dip the fillets into it and fry them in clarified
butter.
No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster)
Ingredients: Lobsters, Velute sauce, Marsala, butter, forcemeat of fish,
olives, anchovy butter, button mushrooms, truffles, lemon, crayfish,
Italian sauce.
Two boiled lobsters are necessary. Cut all the flesh of one of the
lobsters into fillets and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of
Velute sauce (No. 2) and half a glass of Marsala, and boil for a few
minutes. Put a crouton of fried bread on an oval dish and cover it with
a forcemeat of fish, and on this place the whole lobster, cover it with
buttered paper, and put it in a moderate oven just long enough to cook
the forcemeat. Then make some quenelles of anchovy butter, olives, and
button mushrooms, mix them with Italian sauce (No. 6), and garnish the
dish with them, and round the crouton arrange the fillets of lobster
with a garnish of slices of truffle. Add a dessert-spoonful of crayfish
butter and a good squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce, and serve.
No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod)
Ingredients: Cod or hake, carrots, turnips, butter, herbs.
Boil a piece of cod or hake and break it up into flakes, then cut up two
carrots and a turnip; boil them gently, and when they are half boiled
drain and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, half a teacup
of boiling water, salt, and herbs. When they are well cooked add the
fish and serve. Fillets of lemon soles may also be cooked this way.
No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet)
Ingredients: Mullet, salt, pepper, onions, parsley, oil, water.
Cut a mullet into pieces and put it into a stewpan (with the lid
on), with salt, pepper, a cut-up onion, some chopped parsley, half a
wineglass of the finest olive oil and half a pint of water, and in this
cook the fish gently. Arrange the fillets on a dish, pour a little of
the broth over them, and add the onion and parsley. Instead of mullet
you can use cod, hake, whiting, lemon sole, &c.
No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa
Ingredients: Mullet, butter, salt, onions, parsley, almonds, anchovies,
button mushrooms, tomatoes.
Cut off the fins and gills of a mullet, put it in a fireproof dish with
two ounces of butter and salt. Cut up a small bit of onion, a sprig
of parsley, a few blanched almonds, one anchovy, and a few button
mushrooms, previously softened in hot water, and put them over the fish
and bake for twenty minutes Then add two tablespoonsful of tomato
sauce or puree, and when cooked serve. If you like, use sole instead of
mullet.
No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina
Ingredients: Mullet (or sole or turbot), butter, salt half a lemon,
Chablis.
Put the fish in a fireproof dish with one and a half ounces of butter,
salt, a squeeze of lemon juice, and half a glass of Chablis. Put it on
a very, slow fire and turn the fish when necessary. When it is cooked
serve in the dish.
No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese
Ingredients: Whiting, butter, pepper, salt, bay leaf claret, parsley,
onions, garlic capers, vinegar, Espagnole sauce, mushrooms, anchovies.
Put one or two whiting into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, salt,
pepper, two bay leaves, and a glass of claret or Burgundy; cook on a hot
fire and turn the fish when necessary. Have ready beforehand a remoulade
sauce made in the following manner: Put in a saucepan 1 1/2 ounces of
butter, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an onion, a clove of
garlic (with one cut), four capers, one anchovy, all chopped up except
the garlic. Then add three tablespoonsful of vinegar and reduce the
sauce. Add two glasses of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a little good
stock; boil it all up (take out the garlic and bay leaves) and pass
through a sieve, then pour it over the whiting. Boil it all again for
a few minutes, and before serving garnish with a few button mushrooms
cooked separately. The remoulade sauce will be much better if made some
hours beforehand.
No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod)
Ingredients: Cod or whiting, salt, onions, parsley, cloves, turnips,
marjoram, chervil, milk.
Boil gently in a big cupful of salted water two onions, one turnip, a
pinch of chopped parsley, chervil, and marjoram and four cloves. After
half an hour pass this through a sieve (but first take out the cloves),
and add an equal quantity of milk and a little cream, and in this cook
the fish and serve with the sauce over it.
No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod)
Ingredients: Cod, hake, whiting or red mullet, onions, parsley, mint,
marjoram, turnips, mushrooms, chervil, cloves, salt, milk, cream, eggs.
Put a salt-spoonful of salt, two onions, a little parsley, marjoram,
mint, chervil, a turnip, a mushroom, and the heads of two cloves into
a stewpan and simmer in a cupful of milk for half an hour, then let all
the ingredients settle at the bottom, and pass the broth through a hair
sieve, and add to it an equal quantity of milk or cream, and in it cook
your fish on a slow fire. When the fish is quite cooked, pour off the
sauce, but leave a little on the fish to keep it warm; reduce the rest
in a bain-marie; stir all the time, so that the milk may not curdle.
Thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg, and when about to serve pour
it over the fish.
No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock)
Ingredients: Haddock or lemon sole, carrots, anchovies, lemon, pepper,
butter, onions, flour, white wine, stock.
Stuff a haddock (or filleted lemon sole) with some slices of carrot
which have been masked with a paste made of pounded anchovies, very
little chopped lemon peel, salt and pepper. Then fry an onion with two
cuts across it in butter. Take out the onion as soon as it has become a
golden colour, flour the fish and put it in the butter, and when it has
been well fried on both sides pour a glass of Marsala over it, and when
it is all absorbed add a cup of fowl or veal stock and let it simmer for
half an hour, then skim and reduce the sauce, pour it over the fish and
serve.
No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting)
Ingredients: Whiting, onions, parsley, peas, tomatoes, butter, Parmesan,
Bechamel sauce.
Cut a big whiting into two or three pieces and fry them slightly in
butter, add a small bit of onion, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
fry for a few minutes more. Then add some peas which have been cooked in
salted water, three tablespoonsful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and three
of tomato puree, and cook all together on a moderate fire.
No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters)
Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, shallot, anchovies, fennel pepper, bread
crumbs, cream, lemon.
Detach the oysters from their shells and put then into china shells with
their own liquor. Have ready a dessert-spoonful of parsley, shallot,
anchovy and very little fennel, add a tablespoonful of bread crumbs and
a little pepper, and mix the whole with a little cream. Put some of
this mixture on each oyster, and then bake them in a moderate fire for
a quarter of an hour. At the last minute add a squeeze of lemon juice to
each oyster and serve on a folded napkin.
No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters)
Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, celery, thyme, pepper, garlic, oil,
lemon.
Prepare the oysters as above, but rub each shell with a little garlic.
Put on each oyster a mixture made of chopped parsley, a little thyme,
pepper, and bread crumbs. Then pour a few drops of oil on each shell,
put them on the gridiron on an open fire, grill for a few minutes, and
add a little lemon juice before serving.
No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters)
Ingredients: Oysters, butter, shallots, truffles, lemon juice, forcemeat
of fish.
Take several oysters out of their shells and cook them in butter, a
little chopped shallot, and their own liquor, add a little lemon juice
and then put in each of the deeper shells a layer of forcemeat made of
fish and chopped truffles, then an oyster or two, and over this again
another layer of the forcemeat, cover up with the top shell and put them
in a fish kettle and steam them. Then remove the top shell and arrange
the shells with the oysters on a napkin and serve.
No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish)
Ingredients: Any sort of fish, celery, parsley, carrots, garlic, onion,
anchovies, almonds, capers, mushrooms, butter, salt, pepper, flour,
tomatoes.
Chop up a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot, an onion. Pound
up an anchovy in brine (well cleaned, boned, and scaled), four shredded
almonds, three capers and two mushrooms. Put all this into a saucepan
with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper, and fry for a few minutes,
then add a few spoonsful of hot water and a tablespoonful of flour and
boil gently for ten minutes, put in the fish and cook it until it is
done. If you like, you may add a little tomato sauce.
No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot)
Ingredients: Fish (sole, mullet, or turbot), butter, salt, onion,
garlic, carrots, celery, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, spice, mushrooms,
tomatoes, flour, anchovies.
Fry an onion slightly in one and a half ounces of butter, add a small
cut-up carrot, half a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, and a salt
anchovy (scaled), which will dissolve in the butter. Into this put the
fish cut up in pieces, a pinch of spice and pepper, and let it simmer
for a few minutes, then add two cut-up mushrooms, a tomato mashed up,
and a little flour. Mix all together, and cook for twenty minutes.
No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole)
Ingredients: Sole, onion, beetroot, butter, celery, tomato sauce or
white wine.
Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in one ounce of butter, then
add some slices of beetroot (well-washed and drained), and a little
celery cut up; to this add fillets of sole or haddock, salt and pepper.
Boil on a moderate on the fish kettle. When the beetroot is nearly
cooked add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree and boil till all is well
cooked. Instead of the tomato you may use half a glass of Chablis.
No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole)
Ingredients: Sole (or mullet), butter, anchovies, parsley, garlic,
capers, eggs.
Put an ounce of butter and an anchovy in a saucepan together with a sole
or mullet. Fry lightly for a few minutes, then strew a little pepper and
chopped parsley over it, put in a clove of garlic with one cut, and cook
for half an hour, but turn the fish over when one side is sufficiently
done. A few minutes before taking it off the fire add three capers and
stir in the yolk of an egg at the last minute. Do not leave the garlic
in more than five minutes.
No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole)
Ingredients: Sole, butter, garlic, pepper, salt, tomatoes, fennel.
Fillet a sole and put it in a saute-pan with one and a half ounces of
butter and a clove of garlic with one cut in it, then sprinkle over it
a little chopped fennel, salt and pepper, and let it cook for a few
minutes. Turn over the fillets w hen they are sufficiently cooked on one
side, take out the garlic and cover the fish with a puree of tomatoes at
the last.
No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole)
Ingredients: Sole, anchovies, butter, bacon, onion, stock, Chablis,
salt, nutmeg, parsley, Spanish olives, one bay leaf.
Fillet a sole and interlard each piece with a bit of anchovy. Tie up the
fillets and put them in a saute-pan with two ounces of butter, a slice
of bacon or ham, and a few small slices of onion. Cover half over with
good stock and a glass of Chablis, and add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, a
bunch of parsley, and a bay leaf. Cover with buttered paper, and cook on
a slow fire for about an hour. Drain the fish, pass the liquor through
a sieve, reduce it to the consistency of a thick sauce, and pour it over
the fish. Garnish each fillet with a Spanish olive stuffed with anchovy.
No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).*
Ingredients: Sole, Parmesan, butter, cream, cayenne.
Fillet a sole and wipe each piece with a clean cloth, then place them in
a fireproof dish, and put a small piece of butter on each fillet. Then
make a good white sauce, and mix it with two tablespoonsful of grated
Parmesan and half a gill of cream. Cover the fish well with the sauce,
and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes.
*Lemon soles may be used in any of the above-named dishes.
No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, Genoese sauce (No. 5), butter, lemon.
Boil a bit of salmon, drain it, take off the skin, and mask it with a
Genoese sauce, to which add a spoonful of the water in which the salmon
has been boiled, and at the last add a pat of fresh butter and a squeeze
of lemon juice.
No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, truffles, butter, Madeira,
croutons of bread, crayfish tails, anchovy butter.
Cut a bit of salmon into well shaped fillets, and marinate them in lemon
juice and a bunch of herbs for two hours, wipe them, put a layer of
forcemeat of fish over each, and decorate them with slices of truffle.
When put them into a well-buttered saute-pan with half a cup of stock
and a glass of Madeira or Marsala, cover with buttered paper, and put
them into a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Arrange the fillets in a
circle on croutons of bread, garnish the centre with crayfish tails and
with truffles cut into dice, a quarter of a pint of Velute sauce (No.
2), and half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter. Glaze the fillets and
serve.
No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, vegetables, butter, Bechamel,
and Espagnole sauce.
Prepare the fillets as above (No. 66), and put on each a layer of
white forcemeat of fish. Cook a macedoine of vegetables separately, and
garnish each fillet with some of it, then cook them in a covered stewpan
Put a crouton of bread in an entree dish and garnish it with cooked
peas, mixed with Bechamel sauce (No. 3), stock, and butter. Around this
place the fillets of fish, leaving the centre with the peas uncovered.
Pour some rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) round the fillets and serve.
No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, thyme, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
mayonnaise sauce, lobster butter, gelatine, Velute sauce, olives,
anchovy butter, white truffles, mushrooms in oil, crayfish.
Boil a piece of salmon, and when cold cut it into fillets and marinate
them for two hours in oil, lemon juice, salt, thyme pepper, and nutmeg.
Then make a good mayonnaise and add to it some lobster butter mixed with
a little dissolved gelatine and Velute sauce (No. 2). Wipe the fillets
and arrange them in a circle on a dish, and pour the mayonnaise over
them. Then decorate the border of the dish with aspic jelly, and in
the centre put some stoned Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy butter,
truffles, mushrooms in oil, and crayfish tails.
No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, eggs, mayonnaise, parsley, flour.
Marinate a piece of boiled salmon for an hour; take out the bone and
cut the fish into fillets, wipe them, roll them in flour and dip them
in eggs beaten up or in mayonnaise sauce, and fry them a good colour.
Arrange in a circle on the dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve
with Dutch or mayonnaise sauce. Any fillets of fish may be cooked in
this manner.
No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon)
Ingredients: Salmon, butter, onions, parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg,
stock, Chablis, Espagnole sauce (No.1) mushrooms, anchovy butter, lemon.
Put a firm piece of salmon in a stewpan with one and a half ounces of
butter, an onion cut up, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley (blanched),
salt, pepper, very little nutmeg, a cup of stock, and a glass of
Chablis. Cook for half an hour over a hot fire, turn the salmon
occasionally, and if it gets dry, add a cup of Espagnole sauce. Let
it boil until sufficiently cooked, and then put it on a dish. Into the
sauce put four mushrooms cooked in white sauce, half a teaspoonful of
anchovy butter and a little lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the salmon
and serve.
No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte
Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, herbs.
Cut a piece of salmon into fillets, marinate them in oil, lemon juice,
salt, pepper, nutmeg, and herbs for two hours. Wipe and put them into
paper souffle cases with a little oil, butter, and herbs. Cook them on a
gridiron, and serve with a sauce piquante made in the following manner:
Half a pint of rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a dessert-spoonful of
New Century{*} sauce, warmed up in a bain-marie.
*Can be obtained at Messrs Lazenby's, Wigmoree Street, W.
Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C.
No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef)
Ingredients: Fillet of beef or rump steak, bacon, olive oil, salt,
nutmeg, anchovies, herbs, stock, garlic.
Put a piece of very tender rump steak or fillet of beef into a stewpan
with two slices of fat bacon and three teaspoonsful of the finest olive
oil; season with salt and a tiny pinch of nutmeg; let it cook uncovered,
and turn the meat over occasionally. When it is nicely browned add an
anchovy minced and mixed with chopped herbs, and a small clove of garlic
with one cut across it. Then cover the whole with good stock, put the
cover on the stewpan, and when it is all sufficiently cooked, skim the
grease off the sauce, pass it through a sieve, and pour it over the
beef. Leave the garlic in for five minutes only.
No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef)
Ingredients: Beef, mutton, or veal, onions, rosemary, Burgundy,
tomatoes, stock, potatoes, butter, garlic.
Cut up an onion and three leaves of rosemary, fry them slightly in
an ounce of butter, then add meat (beef, mutton, or veal), cut into
fair-sized pieces, salt it and fry it a little, then pour half a glass
of Burgundy over it, and add two tablespoonsful of tomato conserve, or
better still, fresh tomatoes in a puree. Cover up the stewpan and cook
gently, stir occasionally, and add some stock if the stew gets too dry.
If you like to add potatoes, cut them up, put them in the stewpan an
hour before serving, and cook them with the meat. A clove of garlic with
one cut may be added for five minutes.
No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak)
Ingredients: Rump steak, ham, salt, pepper, spice, fat bacon, onion,
stock, white wine.
Lard a bit of good rump steak with bits of lean ham, and season it with
salt, pepper, and a little spice, slightly brown it in butter for a few
minutes, then cover it with three or four slices of fat bacon and put it
into a stewpan with an onion chopped up, a cup of good stock, and half
a glass of white wine; cook with the cover on the stewpan for about an
hour. You may add a clove of garlic for ten minutes.
No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives)
Ingredients: Beef steak, butter, onions, stock, sausage meat.
Cut some thin slices of beef steak, and on each place a little forcemeat
of fowl or veal, to which add a little sausage meat: roll up the slices
of beef and cook them with butter and onions, and when they are well
browned pour some stock over them, and let them absorb it. Serve with a
tomato sauce (No. 10), or sauce piquante made with a quarter of a pint
of rich Espagnole (No. 1), and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce
(see No. 71 note).
No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef)
Ingredients: Rump steak, bacon, ham, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves,
butter, onions, Burgundy.
Beat a piece of rump steak to make it tender and lard it well, cut up
some bits of fat bacon and dust them over with salt, pepper, and a tiny
pinch of cinnamon, and put them on the steak. Stick three cloves into
the steak, then put it into a stewpan, add a little of the fat of the
beef chopped up, an ounce of butter, an onion cut up, and some bits of
lean ham. Put in sufficient stock to cover the steak, add a glass of
Burgundy, and stew gently until it is cooked.
No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef)
Ingredients: Beef, salt, larding bacon, Burgundy, vinegar, spices,
herbs, flour.
Beat a piece of rump steak, or fillet to make it tender; sprinkle it
well with salt and some chopped herbs, and leave it for an hour; then
lard it and marinate it as follows: Half a pint of red wine (Australian
Harvest Burgundy is best), half a glass of vinegar, a pinch of spice,
and a bouquet of herbs; leave it in this for twenty-four hours then take
it out, drain it well sprinkle it with flour, and roast it for twenty
minutes before a clear fire, braize it till quite tender, then press and
glaze it. The thin end of a sirloin is excellent cooked this way. Serve
cold.
No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef)
Ingredients: Beef, beetroot, salt.
Cut up three raw beetroots put them into an earthen ware pot and cover
them with water. Keep them in some warm place, and allow them to ferment
for five, six, or eight days according to the season; the froth at the
top of the water will indicate the necessary fermentation. The take out
the pieces of beetroot, skim off all the froth, and into the fermented
liquor put a good piece of tender rump steak or fillet with some salt.
Braize for four hours and serve.
No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef)
Ingredients: Beef, oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, parsley, capers,
mushrooms, olives, vegetables.
Cook a fillet of beef (or the thin end of a sirloin), which has been
previously marinated for two days in oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, and
chopped parsley. When cold press and glaze it, garnish it with capers,
mushrooms preserved in vinegar or gherkins, olives, and any kind of
vegetables marinated like the beef. Serve cold.
No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios)
Ingredients: Fillet of beef, oil, salt, flour, pistacchio nuts, gravy.
Cut a piece of tender beef into little fillets, and put a them in a
stewpan with a tablespoonful of olive oil and salt. After they have
cooked for a few minutes, powder them with flour, and strew over each
fillet some chopped pistacchio nuts. Add a few spoonsful of very good
boiling gravy, and cook for another half-hour.
No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto)
Ingredients: Rump steak, butter, rice, truffles, tongue, stock,
mushrooms.
Slightly stew a bit of rump steak with bits of tongue and mushrooms; let
it get cold, and cut it into scallops. Butter a pie dish, and garnish
the bottom of it with cooked tongue and slices of cooked truffle, then
over this put a layer of well-cooked and seasoned risotto (No. 190),
then a layer of the scallops of beef, and then another layer of risotto.
Heat in a bain-marie, and turn out of the pie dish, and serve with a
very good sauce poured round it.
No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal)
Ingredients: Tendons of veal, fowl forcemeat, truffles, risotto (No.
190), a cock's comb, tongue.
Tendons of veal are that part of the breast which lies near the ribs,
and forms an opaque gristly substance. Partly braize a fine bit of
this joint, and press it between two plates till cold. Cut it up into
fillets, and on each spread a thin layer of fowl forcemeat, and decorate
with slices of truffle. Put the fillets into a stewpan, cover them with
very good stock, and boil till the forcemeat and truffles are quite
cooked. Prepare a risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), put it on a dish and
decorate it with bits of red tongue cut into shapes, and in the centre
put a whole cooked truffle and a white cock's comb, both on a silver
skewer. Place the tendons of veal round the dish. Add a good Espagnole
sauce (No. 1) and serve.
If you like, leave out the risotto and serve the veal with Espagnole
sauce mixed with cooked peas and chopped truffle.
No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets)
Ingredients: Veal, salt, pepper, butter, bacon, carrots, flour, Chablis,
water, lemon.
Cut a bit of veal steak into pieces the size of small cutlets, salt
and pepper them, and put them in a wide low stewpan. Add two ounces of
butter, a cut-up carrot, and some bits of bacon also cut up. When they
are browned, add a spoonful of flour, half a glass of Chablis, and half
a glass of water, and cook on a slow fire for half an hour, then take
out the cutlets, reduce the sauce, and pass it through a sieve. Put it
back on the fire and add an ounce of butter and a good squeeze of lemon,
and when hot pour it over the cutlets.
No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets)
Ingredients: Veal cutlets (fowl or turkey cutlets), forcemeat, truffles,
mushrooms, tongue, parsley, pasta marinate (No. 17).
Cut a few horizontal lines along your cutlets, and on each put a
little veal or fowl forcemeat, to which add in equal quantities chopped
truffles, tongue, mushrooms, and a little parsley. Over this put a thin
layer of pasta marinate, and fry the cutlets on a slow fire.
No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal)
Ingredients: Breast of veal, butter, onions, sugar, stock, red wine,
mushrooms, bacon, salt, flour, bay leaf.
Roast a bit of breast of veal, then glaze over two Spanish onions with
butter and a little sugar, and when they are a good colour pour a teacup
of stock and a glass of Burgundy over them, and add a few mushrooms,
a bay leaf, some salt, and a few bits of bacon. When the mushrooms and
onions are cooked, skim off the fat and thicken the sauce with a little
flour and butter fried together; pour it over the veal and put the
onions and mushrooms round the dish.
No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal)
Ingredients: Veal, butter, Marsala, stock, lemon, bacon.
Cut a tender bit of veal steak into small fillets, cut off all the fat
and stringy parts, flour them and fry them in butter. When they are
slightly browned add a glass of Marsala and a teacup of good stock, and
fry on a very hot fire, so that the fillets may remain tender. Take them
off the fire, put a little roll of fried bacon on each, add a squeeze of
lemon juice, and serve.
No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives)
Ingredients: Veal steak, butter, bread, eggs, pistacchio nuts, spice,
parsley.
Cut some slices of veal steak very thin as for veal olives, and spread
them out in a well-buttered stewpan. On each slice of veal put half a
spoonful of the following mixture: Pound some crumb of bread and mix it
with a whole egg; add a little salt, some pistacchio nuts, herbs, and
parsley chopped up, and a little butter. Roll up each slice of veal,
cover with a sheet of buttered paper, put the cover on the stewpan and
cook for three-quarters of an hour in two ounces of butter on a slow
fire. Thicken the sauce with a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter
fried together.
No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal)
Ingredients: Ribs of veal, butter, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs,
parsley.
Cut all the sinews from a piece of neck or ribs of veal, cover the meat
with plenty of butter and half cook it on a slow fire, then let it get
cold. When cold, egg it over and roll it in bread crumbs mixed with a
tablespoonful of grated Parmesan; fry in butter and serve with a garnish
of fried parsley and a rich sauce. A dessert-spoonful of New Century
sauce mixed with quarter of a pint of good thick stock makes a good
sauce. (See No. 226.)
No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets)
Ingredients: Mutton cutlets, butter, olives, mushrooms, cucumbers.
Trim as many cutlets as you require, and marinate them in vinegar,
herbs, and spice for two hours. Before cooking wipe them well and then
saute them in clarified butter, and when they are well coloured on both
sides and resist the pressure of the finger, drain off the butter and
pour four tablespoonsful of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) with a teaspoonful
of vinegar and six bruised pepper corns over them. Arrange them on a
dish, putting between each cutlet a crouton of fried bread, and garnish
with olives stuffed with chopped mushrooms and with slices of fried
cucumber.
No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton)
Ingredients: Breast of mutton, veal, forcemeat, eggs, herbs, spice,
Parmesan.
Stuff a breast of mutton with veal forcemeat mixed with two eggs beaten
up, herbs, a little spice, and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan,
braize it in stock with a bunch of herbs and two onions. Serve with
Italian sauce (No. 6).
No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton)
Ingredients: Same as No. 90.
When the breast of mutton has been stuffed and cooked as above, let it
get cold and then cut it into fillets, flour them over, fry in butter,
and serve with tomato sauce piquante (No. 10), or one dessert-spoonful
of New Century sauce in a quarter pint of good stock or gravy.
No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb)
Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, eggs, bread crumbs, truffles, butter,
stock, Villeroy sauce.
Slightly cook the tendons (the part of the breast near the ribs) of
lamb, press them between two dishes till cold, then cut into a good
shape and dip them into a Villeroy sauce (No. 18) egg and bread-crumb,
and saute them in butter. When about to serve, put them in a dish with
very good clear gravy. A teaspoonful of chopped mint and a tablespoonful
of chopped truffles mixed with the bread crumbs will be a great
improvement.
No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb)
Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, butter, parsley, onions, stock.
Fry the tendons of lamb in butter together with a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley and an onion. Serve with good gravy.
No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets)
Ingredients: Lamb cutlets, butter, stock, cocks' combs, fowl's liver,
mushrooms.
Fry as many lamb cutlets as you require very sharply in butter, drain
off the butter and replace it with some very good stock or gravy. Make
a ragout of cocks' combs, bits of fowl's liver and mushrooms all cut up;
add a white sauce with half a gill of cream mixed with it, and with this
mask the cutlets, and saute them for fifteen minutes.
Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &C.
No. 95. Timballo alla Romana
Ingredients: Cold fowl, game, or sweetbread, butter, lard, flour,
Parmesan, truffles, macaroni, onions, cream.
Make a light paste of two ounces of butter, two of lard, and half a
pound of flour, and put it in the larder for two hours. In the meantime
boil a little macaroni and let it get cold, then line a plain mould with
the paste, and fill it with bits of cut-up fowl, or game, or sweetbread,
bits of truffle cut in small dice, grated Parmesan, and a little chopped
onion. Put these ingredients in alternately, and after each layer add
enough cream to moisten. Fill the mould quite full, then roll out a thin
paste for the top and press it well together at the edges to keep the
cream from boiling out. Bake it in a moderate oven for an hour and
a half, turn it out of the mould, and serve with a rich brown sauce.
Decorate the top with bits of red tongue and truffles cut into shapes or
with a little chopped pistacchio nut.
No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda
Ingredients: Macaroni, fowl or game, eggs, stock, Velute sauce (No. 2),
tongue, butter, truffles.
Butter a smooth mould, then boil some macaroni, but take care that it is
in long pieces. When cold, take the longest bits and line the bottom of
the mould, making the macaroni go in circles; and when you come to the
end of one piece, join on the next as closely as possible until the
whole mould is lined; paint it over now and then with white of egg
beaten up; then mask the whole inside with a thin layer of forcemeat of
fowl, which should also be put on with white of egg to make it adhere;
then cut up the bits of macaroni which remain, warm them up in some good
fowl stock and Velute sauce much reduced, a little melted butter, some
bits of truffle cut into dice, tongue, fowl, or game also cut up in
pieces. When the mould is full, put on another layer of forcemeat, steam
for an hour, then turn out and serve with a very good brown sauce.
No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue)
Ingredients: Tongue, glaze, bread, spinach, white grapes, port.
Soak a smoked tongue in fresh water for forty-eight hours, then boil
it till it is tender. Peel off the skin, cut the tongue in rather thick
slices, and glaze them. Prepare an oval border of fried bread, cover it
with spinach about two inches thick, and on this arrange the slices of
tongue. Fill in the centre of the dish with white grapes cooked in port
or muscat.
No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber)
Ingredients: Ox tongue, salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, bacon, veal,
carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, stock.
Gently boil an ox tongue until you can peel off the skin, then lard it,
season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley, and boil it
with some bits of bacon, ham, veal, a carrot, an onion, two bay leaves,
thyme and two cloves. Pour some good stock over it and let it simmer
gently until it is cooked. Put the tongue on a dish and garnish it with
slices of fried cucumber. Boil the cucumber for five minutes before you
fry it, to take away the bitter taste. Serve the tongue with a sauce
piquante, made with one dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce to a
quarter pint of good Espangole sauce (No. 1).
No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues)
Ingredients: Sheep's tongues, bacon, beef, onions, herbs, spice, eggs,
butter, flour.
Cook three or four sheep's tongues in good stock, and add some slices of
bacon, bits of beef, two onions, a bunch of herbs, and a pinch of spice.
Let them get cold, flour them and mask them with egg beaten up and fry
quickly in butter. Serve with Italian sauce (No. 6)
No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues)
Ingredients: Calves' tongues, salt, butter, stock, water, glaze,
potatoes, ham, truffles, sauce piquante.
Rub a good handful of salt into two or three calves' tongues and leave
them for twenty-four hours, then wash off all the salt and soak them in
fresh water for two hours. Stew them gently till tender, take them out,
skin and braize them in butter and good stock for half an hour. Let
them get cold and cut them into slices about half an inch thick; put the
slices into a buttered saute-pan and cover them with a good thick glaze;
let them get quite hot and then arrange them on a border of potatoes,
and garnish each slice with round shapes of cooked ham and truffle. Fill
the centre with any vegetables you like; fried cucumber is excellent,
but if you use it do not forget to boil it for five minutes before you
fry it to take away the bitter taste. Serve with a sauce piquante (No.
10, or No. 226).
No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig)
Ingredients: Sucking pig, ham, eggs, Parmesan, truffles, mushrooms,
garlic, bay leaves, coriander seeds, pistacchio nuts, veal forcemeat,
suet, bacon, herbs, spice.
Bone a sucking pig, remove all the inside and fill it with a stuffing
made of veal forcemeat mixed with a little chopped suet, ham, bacon,
herbs, two tablespoonsful of finely chopped pistacchio nuts, a pinch
of spice, six coriander seeds, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan,
cuttings of truffles and mushrooms all bound together with eggs. Sew
the pig up and braize it in a big stewpan with bits of bacon, a clove
of garlic with two cuts, a bunch of herbs and one bay leaf, for half an
hour. Then pour off the gravy, cover the pig with well-buttered paper,
and finish cooking it in the oven. Garnish the top with vegetables and
truffles cut into shapes, slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Serve
with a good sauce piquante (No. 229). Do not leave the garlic in for
more than ten minutes.
No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig)
Ingredients: Sucking pig, forcemeat of fowl, bacon, truffles, pistacchio
nuts, ham, lemon, veal, bay leaves, salt, carrots, onions, shallots,
parsley, stock, Chablis, gravy.
Bone a sucking pig all except its feet, but be careful not to cut the
skin on its back. Lay it out on a napkin and line it inside with a
forcemeat of fowl and veal about an inch thick, over this put a layer of
bits of marinated bacon, slices of truffle, pistacchio nuts, cooked ham,
and some of the flesh of the pig, then another layer of forcemeat until
the pig's skin is fairly filled. Keep its shape by sewing it lightly
together, then rub it all over with lemon juice and cover it with slices
of fat bacon, roll it up and stitch it in a pudding cloth. Then put the
bones and cuttings into a stewpan with bits of bacon and veal steak cut
up, two bay leaves, salt, a carrot, an onion, a shallot, and a bunch
of parsley. Into this put the pig with a bottle of white wine and
sufficient stock to cover it, and cook on a slow fire for three hours.
Then take it out, and when cold take off the pudding-cloth. Pass the
liquor through a hair sieve, and, if necessary, add some stock; reduce
and clarify it. Decorate the dish with this jelly and serve cold.
No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda
Ingredients: Veal or fowl, ox palates, stock, tongue, truffles, butter,
mushrooms, sweetbread.
Soak two ox palates in salted water for four hours, then boil them until
the rough skin comes off, and cook them in good stock for six hours,
press them between two plates and let them get cold. Roll some forcemeat
of veal or fowl in flour, cut it into small pieces about the size of
a cork, boil them in salted water, let them get cold and cut them into
circular pieces. Cut the ox palates also into circular pieces the same
size as the bits of forcemeat, then thinner circles of cooked tongue
and truffles. String these pieces alternately on small silver skewers.
Reduce to half its quantity a pint of Velute sauce (No. 2), and add the
cuttings of the truffles, mushroom trimmings, bits of sweetbread, and
a squeeze of lemon juice. Let it get cold and then mask the atelets
(or skewers with the forcemeat, &c.) with it, and fry them quickly in
butter. Fry a large oval crouton of bread, scoop out the centre and
fill it with fried slices of cucumber and truffles boiled in a little
Chablis. Stick the skewers into the crouton and pour the sauce round it.
For a maigre dish use fillets of fish, truffles, mushrooms, and Bechamel
sauce (No. 3). The cucumber should be boiled for five minutes before it
is fried.
No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese
Ingredients: Veal, sweetbread, calf's brains, ox palates, mushrooms,
fonds d'artichauds, cocks' combs, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs.
Cook two ox palates as in the last recipe, then take equal quantities
of veal steak, sweetbread, calf's brains, equal quantities of mushrooms,
fonds d'artichauds, and cocks' combs. Fry them all in butter except the
palates, but be careful to put the veal in first, as it requires longer
cooking; the brains should go in last. Then put all these ingredients
on a cutting board and add the palates (cooked separately); cut them
all into pieces of equal size, either round or square, but keep the
ingredients separate, and string them alternately on silver skewers,
as in the last recipe. Then pound up all the cuttings and add a little
crumb of bread soaked in stock, the yolks of three eggs, the whites of
two well beaten up, two dessert-spoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt to
taste, and chopped truffles. Mix all this well together and mask the
atelets with it; egg and bread crumb them and fry in butter. When they
are a good colour, serve with fried parsley.
No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head)
Ingredients: Calf's head, veal, sweetbread, truffles, mushrooms,
pistacchio nuts, eggs, herbs, spice, stock, bacon, ham.
Boil a half calf's head well, and when it is half cold, bone it and fill
it with a stuffing of veal, the calf's brains, sweetbread, truffles,
mushrooms, pistacchio nuts, the yolks of two eggs, herbs, and a little
spice. Then stitch it up and braize it in good stock, with some slices
of bacon, ham, and a bunch of herbs. Serve with brain sauce mixed with
cream.
No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head)
Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's liver, bacon, suet, truffles, almonds,
olives, calf's brains, capers, spice, coriander seeds, herbs, ham,
stock.
Boil half a calf's head, bone it and fill it with a stuffing made of
four ounces of calf's liver, well chopped up and pounded in a mortar;
two ounces of bacon, one ounce of suet, three truffles, six almonds,
three olives, six coriander seeds, six capers, the calf's brains, a
pinch of spice and a teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Roll up the head, tie
it up and put it into a stewpan with some bits of bacon, ham, and very
good stock, and stew it slowly. Serve with Neapolitan sauce (No.12), or
with tomato sauce piquante (No. 10).
No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head)
Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's brains, cream, eggs, truffles,
cinnamon, stock, butter, Parmesan.
Boil and bone half a calf's head and fill it with a stuffing made of the
calf's brains, a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, two truffles cut
up, a little chopped ham, and a tiny pinch of cinnamon. Boil it in good
stock, and when it is sufficiently cooked take it out and mask it all
over with a mixture of butter, yolk of egg, and a tablespoonful of
grated Parmesan, then brown it in the oven and serve hot.
No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head)
Ingredients: Calf's head, sweetbread, fowl's liver, anchovies, herbs,
capers, garlic, bacon, ham, Malmsey or Muscat.
Boil and bone half a calf's head, and fill it with a stuffing made of
half a pound of sweetbread, a fowl's liver, two anchovies, a teaspoonful
of chopped herbs, a few chopped capers, and the calf's brains. Roll the
head up, stitch it together and braize it in half a tumbler of Malmsey
or Australian Muscat (Burgoyne's), half a cup of very good white stock,
some bits of ham and bacon, and a clove of garlic with two cuts. Cook it
gently for four hours and serve it with its own sauce. Do not leave the
garlic in longer than ten minutes.
No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head)
Ingredients: Calf's head, eggs, Parmesan, ham, pepper, butter, croutons.
A good rechauffe' of calf's head may be made in the following manner:
After the head has been well boiled in good stock, cut it into slices
and mask these with a mixture of eggs well beaten up, grated Parmesan,
pepper, and chopped ham. Fry in butter, and garnish with fried parsley
and fried croutons. Serve with a sauce made of a quarter of a pint of
good Bechamel (No. 3) and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce.
No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet)
Ingredients: Calves' or pigs' feet, butter, leeks or small onions,
parsley, salt, pepper, stock, tomatoes, eggs, cheese, cinnamon.
Blanch and bone two or more calves' or pigs' feet and put them into a
stewpan with butter, leeks, or onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper,
and a little stock. Let them boil till the liquid is somewhat reduced,
then add good meat gravy and two tablespoonsful of tomato puree, and
just before taking the stewpan off the fire, add the yolks of two
eggs beaten up, a tablespoonful of grated cheese, and a tiny pinch of
cinnamon. Mix all well together and serve very hot.
No. 111. Bodini Marinati
Ingredients: Veal forcemeat, truffles, sweetbread, mushrooms, herbs,
flour, pasta marinate (No. 17), tongue, butter.
Make a mixture of truffles, tongue, sweetbread, mushrooms, and herbs,
all chopped up, and add it to a forcemeat of veal, the proportions being
two-thirds veal forcemeat and the other ingredients one third. Mix this
well and form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg,
flour them and mask them all over with pasta marinate (No. 17). Fry
them in butter over a slow fire, so that the balls may be well cooked
through, and when they are the right colour dry them in a napkin and
serve very hot.
These bodini may be made with various ingredients; they will be most
delicate with a forcemeat of fowl and bits of brain mixed with herbs,
truffle, cooked ham, or tongue. They are also excellent made with fish
(sole, mullet, turbot, &c.), either cooked or raw, and marinated in
lemon, salt, pepper, oil, nutmeg, and parsley.
No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread)
Ingredients: Sweetbread, bread crumbs, Parmesan, butter.
Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, and then roll them in bread
crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper; wrap them up in
buttered grease-proof paper and grill them. When they are cooked, take
off the paper, and serve with a good sauce in a sauce-boat.
No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread)
Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bread crumbs,
Parmesan, lemons, gravy, tomatoes.
Blanch a pound of sweetbread cuttings, mix it with two ounces of melted
butter, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, and put it into paper souffle
cases. Then strew over each some bread crumbs mixed with grated
Parmesan, put the cases in the oven, and when they are browned serve
either with good gravy and lemon juice or with tomato sauce (No. 9).