CHAPTER XVIII

THE DÉBUTANTE

=HOW A YOUNG GIRL IS PRESENTED TO SOCIETY=

Any one of various entertainments may be given to present a young girl to

society. The favorite and most elaborate of these, but possible only to

parents of considerable wealth and wide social acquaintance, is a ball.

Much less elaborate, but equal in size, and second in favor to-day, is an

afternoon tea with dancing. Third, and gaining in popularity, is a small

dance, which presents the débutante to the younger set and a few of her

mother's intimate friends. Fourth, is a small tea without music. Fifth,

the mere sending out of the mother's visiting card with the daughter's

name engraved below her own, announces to the world that the daughter is

eligible for invitations.

=A BALL FOR A DÉBUTANTE=

A ball for a débutante differs in nothing from all other balls excepting

that the débutante "receives" standing beside the hostess, and furthest

from the entrance, whether that happens to be on the latter's right or

left. The guests as they mount the stairs or enter the ballroom and are

"announced," approach the hostess first, who, as she shakes hands with

each, turns to the débutante and says "Mrs. Worldly, my daughter." Or

"Cynthia, I want to present you to Mrs. Worldly." ("Want to" is used on

this occasion because "may I" is too formal for a mother to say to her

child.) A friend would probably know the daughter; in any event the

mother's introduction would be, "You remember Cynthia, don't you?"

Each arriving guest always shakes hands with the débutante as well as with

the hostess, and if there is a queue of people coming at the same time,

there is no need of saying anything beyond "How do you do?" and passing on

as quickly as possible. If there are no others entering at the moment,

each guest makes a few pleasant remarks. A stranger, for instance, would

perhaps comment on how lovely, and many, the débutante's bouquets are, or

express a hope that she will enjoy her winter, or talk for a moment or two

about the "gaiety of the season" or "the lack of balls," or anything that

shows polite interest in the young girl's first glimpse of society. A

friend of her mother might perhaps say "You look too lovely, Cynthia dear,

and your dress is enchanting!"

Personal compliments, however, are proper only from a close friend. No

acquaintance, unless she is quite old, should ever make personal remarks.

An old lady or gentleman might very forgivably say "You don't mind, my

dear, if I tell you how sweet I think you look," or "What a pretty frock

you have on." But it is bad taste for a young woman to say to another

"What a handsome dress you have on!" and worst of all to add "Where did

you get it?" The young girl's particular friends are, of course, apt to

tell her that her dress is wonderful, or more likely, "simply divine."

It is customary in most cities to send a débutante a bouquet at her

"coming out" party. They may be "bouquets" really, or baskets, or other

decorative flowers, and are sent by relatives, friends of the family, her

father's business associates, as well as by young men admirers. These

"bouquets" are always banked near and if possible, around the place the

débutante stands to receive. If she has great quantities, they are placed

about the room wherever they look most effective. The débutante usually

holds one of the bouquets while receiving, but she should remember that

her choice of this particular one among the many sent her is somewhat

pointed to the giver, so that unless she is willing to acknowledge one

particular beau as "best" it is wiser to carry one sent by her father, or

brother, especially if either send her one of the tiny 1830 bouquets that

have been for a year or two in fashion, and are no weight to hold.

These bouquets are about as big around as an ordinary saucer, and just as

flat on top as a saucer placed upside down. The flowers chosen are

rosebuds or other compact flowers, massed tightly together, and arranged

in a precise pattern; for instance, three or four pink rosebuds are put in

the center, around them a row of white violets, around these a single row

of the pink roses, surrounded again by violets, and so on for four or five

rows. The bouquet is then set in stiff white lace paper, manufactured for

the purpose, the stems wrapped in white satin ribbon, with streamers of

white and pink ribbons about a quarter of an inch wide and tied to hang

twenty inches or so long. The colors and patterns in which these little

bouquets may be made are unlimited.

=THE DÉBUTANTE RECEIVES=

At a ball, where the guests begin coming about half past ten, the

débutante must stand beside the hostess and "receive" until at least

twelve o'clock--later if guests still continue to arrive.

At all coming-out parties, the débutante invites a few of her best girl

friends to receive with her. Whether the party is in the afternoon or

evening, these young girls wear evening dresses and come early and stay

late. Their being asked to "receive" is a form of expression merely, as

they never stand in line, and other than wearing pretty clothes and thus

adding to the picture, they have no "duties" whatsoever.

=AT SUPPER=

The débutante goes to supper with a partner who has surely spoken for the

privilege weeks or even months beforehand. But the rest of her own table

is always made up by herself; that is, it includes the young girls who are

her most intimate friends, and their supper partners. Her table is usually

in the center of the dining-room, but, there is no especial decoration to

distinguish it, except that it is often somewhat larger than the other

tables surrounding it, and a footman or waiter is detailed to tell any who

may attempt to take it, that it is "reserved."

After supper the débutante has no duties and is free to enjoy herself.

The afternoon tea with dancing is described in the chapter on Teas and

needs no further comment, since its etiquette is precisely the same as

that for a ball. The débutante's bouquets are arranged as effectively as

possible, and she receives with her mother, or whoever the hostess may be,

until the queue of arriving guests thins out, after which she need be

occupied with nothing but her own good time, and that of her friends.

Those of smaller means, or those who object to hotel rooms, ask only

younger people, and give the tea in their own house. Where there are two

rooms on a floor--drawing-room in front, dining-room back, and a library

on the floor above, the guests are received in the drawing-room, but

whether they dance in the dining-room or up in the library, depends upon

which room is the larger. In either case the furniture is moved out. If

possible the smallest room should be used to receive in, the largest to

dance in, and the tea-table should be set in the medium one.

=HOW MANY GUESTS MAY ONE ASK?=

A hostess should never try to pack her house beyond the limits of its

capacity. This question of how many invitations may safely be sent out is

one which each hostess must answer for herself, since beyond a few obvious

generalities no one can very well advise her.

Taking a hostess of "average" social position, who is bringing out a

daughter of "average" attractiveness and popularity, it would be safe to

say that every débutante and younger man asked to a party of any kind

where there is dancing, will accept, but that not more than from half to

one-third of the older people asked will put in an appearance.

=LAVISH PARTIES GIVING WAY TO SIMPLE ONES=

A ball, by the way, is always a general entertainment, meaning that

invitations are sent to the entire dinner list--not only actual but

potential--of the host and hostess, as well as to the younger people who

are either themselves friends of the débutante, or daughters and sons of

the friends, and acquaintances of the hostess.

A dance differs from a ball in that it is smaller, less elaborate and its

invitations are limited to the contemporaries of the débutante, or at most

the youngest married set.

Invitations to a tea are even more general and should include a hostess'

entire visiting list, irrespective of age or even personal acquaintance.

The old-fashioned visiting list of the young hostess included the entire

list of her mother, plus that of her mother-in-law, to which was added all

the names acquired in her own social life. It can easily be seen that this

list became a formidable volume by the time her daughter was old enough to

"come out," and yet this entire list was supposed to be included in all

"general" invitations!

In the present day, however, at least in New York, there is a growing

tendency to eliminate these general or "impersonal" invitations. In

smartest society, it is not even considered necessary that a "general"

entertainment be given to introduce a daughter. In New York last winter

there were scarcely a dozen private balls all told. Many of the most

fashionable (and richest) hostesses gave dances limited to young girls of

their daughters' ages and young dancing men. Even at many of the

teas-with-dancing none but young people were asked.

Anyone who likes to sit on the bank and watch the tides of fashion rise

and fall, cannot fail to notice that big and lavish entertainments are

dwindling, and small and informal ones increasing. It is equally apparent,

contrary to popular opinion, that extravagance of expenditure is growing

less and less. It is years since any one has given such a ball, for

instance, as the Venetian fête the Gildings gave to bring out their eldest

daughter, when the entire first floor of the Fitz-Cherry was turned into a

replica of Venice--canals, gondolas, and all. Or the Persian ball of the

Vanstyles where the whole house was hung, as a background for Oriental

costumes, with copper-gold draperies, against which stood at intervals

Maxfield Parrish cypress trees. Or the moonlight dance of the Worldlys

which was not a fancy dress one, but for which the ballroom was turned

into a garden scene, lighted by simulated moonlight that would have added

to the renown of Belasco.

Such entertainments as these seem almost "out of key" with the attitude of

to-day. For although fancy-dress and elaborate parties are occasionally

given, they are not usually given for débutantes, nor on the scale of

those mentioned above.

=THE DÉBUTANTE'S DRESS=

At a ball, the débutante wears her very prettiest ball dress.

Old-fashioned sentiment prefers that it be white, and of some diaphanous

material, such as net or gauze or lace. It ought not to look

overelaborate, even though it is spangled with silver or crystal or is

made of sheer lace. It should suggest something light and airy and gay

and, above all, young. For a young girl to whom white is unbecoming, a

color is perfectly suitable as long as it is a pale shade. She should not

wear strong colors such as red, or Yale blue, and on no account black! Her

mother, of course, wears as handsome a ball dress as possible, and "all

her jewels."

At an afternoon tea the débutante wears an evening dress--a very simple

evening dress, but an evening dress all the same. Usually a very pale

color, and quite untrimmed, such as she might wear at home for dinner. Her

mother wears an afternoon dress, not an evening one. Both mother and

daughter wear long gloves, and neither they, nor the young girls

receiving, wear hats.

To describe the details of clothes is futile. Almost before this page

comes from the printer, the trend may quite likely change. But the

tendency of the moment is toward greater simplicity--in effect at all

events.

=IN CONFIDENCE TO A DÉBUTANTE=

Let us pretend a worldly old godmother is speaking, and let us suppose

that you are a young girl on the evening of your coming-out ball. You are

excited, of course you are! It is your evening, and you are a sort of

little princess! There is music, and there are lights, and there are

flowers everywhere--a great ballroom massed with them, tables heaped with

bouquets--all for you! You have on an especially beautiful dress--one that

was selected from among many others, just because it seemed to you the

prettiest. Even your mother and married sister who, "_en grande tenue_,"

have always seemed to you dazzling figures, have for the moment become,

for all their brocades and jewels, merely background; and you alone are

the center of the picture. Up the wide staircase come throngs of

fashionables--who mean "the world." They are coming on purpose to bow to

you! You can't help feeling that the glittering dresses, the tiaras, the

ropes of pearls and chains of diamonds of the "dowagers," the stiff white

shirt-fronts and boutonnières and perfectly fitting coats of the older

gentlemen, as well as the best clothes of all the younger people, were all

put on for you.

You shake hands and smile sweetly to a number of older ladies and shake

hands with an equal number of gentlemen, all very politely and properly.

Then suddenly, half way up the stairs you see Betty and Anne and Fred and

Ollie. Of course your attention is drawn to them. You are vaguely

conscious that the butler is shouting some stupid name you never heard

of--that you don't care in the least about. Your mother's voice is saying

"Mrs. zzzzzz----,"

Impatiently you give your hand to someone--you haven't the slightest idea

who it is. So far as your interest is concerned, you might as well be

brushing away annoying flies. Your smiles are directed to Betty and Anne.

As they reach the top of the stairs you dart forward and enter into an

excited conversation, deliberately overlooking a lady and gentleman who,

without trying further to attract your attention, pass on. Later in the

winter you will perhaps wonder why you alone among your friends are never

asked to Great Estates. The lady and gentleman of whom you are so rudely

unaware, happen to be Mr. and Mrs. Worldly, and you have entirely

forgotten that you are a hostess, and furthermore that you have the whole

evening, beginning at supper, when you can talk to these friends of yours!

You can dance with Fred and Ollie and Jimmy all the rest of the evening;

you can spend most of your time with them for the rest of your life if you

and they choose. But when you are out in public, above all at a party

which is for _you_, your duty in commonest civility is to overcome your

impulses, and behave as a grown-up person--and a well-bred grown-up person

at that!

It takes scarcely more than ten seconds to listen to the name that is said

to you, to look directly and attentively at the one to whom the name

belongs, to put out your hand firmly as you would take hold of something

you like, (not something that you feel an aversion to), and with a smile

say "How do you do." At your ball your mother says "Mrs. Worldly, my

daughter." You look directly at Mrs. Worldly, put out your hand, say "How

do you do, Mrs. Worldly." And she passes on. It takes no longer to be

cordial and attentive than to be distrait and casual and rude, yet the

impression made in a few seconds of actual time may easily gain or lose a

friend for life. When no other guests are arriving, you can chatter to

your own friends as much as you like, but as you turn to greet another

stranger, you must show pleasure, not annoyance, in giving him your

attention.

A happy attitude to cultivate is to think in your own mind that new people

are all packages in a grab-bag, and that you can never tell what any of

them may prove to be until you know what is inside the outer wrappings of

casual appearances. To be sure, the old woman of the fairy tale, who turns

out to be a fairy in disguise, is not often met with in real life, but

neither is her approximate counterpart an impossibility.

As those who have sent you flowers approach, you must thank them; you must

also write later an additional note of thanks to older people. But to

your family or your own intimate friends, the verbal thanks--if not too

casually made--are sufficient.

=A FEW DON'TS FOR DÉBUTANTES=

Don't think that because you have a pretty face, you need neither brains

nor manners. Don't think that you can be rude to anyone and escape being

disliked for it.

Whispering is always rude. Whispering and giggling at the same time have

no place in good society. Everything that shows lack of courtesy toward

others is rude.

If you would be thought a person of refinement, don't nudge or pat or

finger people. Don't hold hands or walk arm-about-waist in public. Never

put your hand on a man, except in dancing and in taking his arm if he is

usher at a wedding or your partner for dinner or supper. Don't allow

anyone to paw you. Don't hang on anyone for support, and don't stand or

walk with your chest held in, and your hips forward, in imitation of a

reversed letter S.

Don't walk across a ballroom floor swinging your arms. Don't talk or laugh

loud enough to attract attention, and on no account force yourself to

laugh. Nothing is flatter than laughter that is lacking in mirth. If you

only laugh because something is irresistibly funny, the chances are your

laugh will be irresistible too. In the same way a smile should be

spontaneous, because you _feel_ happy and pleasant; nothing has less

allure than a mechanical grimace, as though you were trying to imitate a

tooth-paste advertisement.

=WHERE ARE THE "BELLES" OF YESTERDAY?=

In olden days and until a comparatively short while ago, a young girl's

social success was invariably measured by her popularity in a ballroom. It

was the girl who had the most partners, who least frequently sat "against

the wall," who carried home the greatest quantity of the baubles known as

"favors," who was that evening's and usually the season's belle.

But to-day although ballroom popularity is still important as a test by

which a young girl's success is measured, it is by no means the beginning

and end that it used to be.

As repeated several times in this book, the day of the belle is past;

beaux belong to the past too. To-day is the day of woman's equality with

man, and if in proving her equality she has come down from a pedestal, her

pedestal was perhaps a theatrical "property" at best and not to be

compared for solid satisfaction with the level ground of the entirely real

position she now occupies.

A girl's popularity in a ballroom is of importance to be sure, but not

greatly more so than the dancing popularity of a youth.

There was a time when "wall-flowers" went to balls night after night where

they either sat beside a chaperon or spent the evening in the

dressing-room in tears. To-day a young girl who finds she is not a

ballroom success avoids ballrooms and seeks her success otherwhere. She

does not sit in a corner and hope against hope that her "luck will turn"

and that Prince Charming will surely some evening discover her. She sizes

up the situation exactly as a boy might size up his own chances to "make"

the crew or the football team.

=TO-DAY'S SPECIALISTS IN SUCCESS=

The girl of to-day soon discovers, if she does not know it already, that

to be a ballroom belle it is necessary first of all to dance really well.

A girl may be as beautiful as a young Diana or as fascinating as Circe,

but if she is heavy or steps on her first partner's toes, never again will

he ask her to dance. And the news spreads in an instant.

The girl of to-day therefore knows she must learn to dance well, which is

difficult, since dancers are born, not made; or she must go to balls for

supper only, or not go to balls at all, _unless_--she plays a really good

game of bridge! In which case, her chances for popularity at the bridge

tables, which are at all balls to-day, are quite as good as though she

were a young Pavlowa in the ballroom. Or perhaps she skates, or hunts, or

plays a wonderful game of tennis or golf, each one of which opens a vista

leading to popularity, and the possibilities for a "good time" which was

after all the mainspring of old-fashioned ballroom success.

And since the day of femininity that is purely ornamental and utterly

useless is gone by, it is the girl who does things well who finds life

full of interests and of friends and of happiness. The old idea also has

passed that measures a girl's popular success by the number of trousered

figures around her. It is quality, not quantity, that counts; and the girl

who surrounds herself with indiscriminate and possibly "cheap" youths does

not excite the envy but the derision of beholders. To the highest type of

young girl to-day it makes very little difference whether, in the

inevitable "group" in which she is perpetually to be found, there are more

men than girls or the opposite.

This does not mean that human nature has changed--scarcely! There always

are and doubtless always will be any number of women to whom admiration

and flirtation is the very breath of their nostrils, who love to parade a

beau just as they love to parade a new dress. But the tendencies of the

time do not encourage the flirtatious attitude. It is not considered a

triumph to have many love affairs, but rather an evidence of stupidity and

bad taste.

=FRANKNESS OF TO-DAY=

A young man playing tennis with a young girl a generation ago would have

been forced patiently to toss her gentle balls and keep his boredom to

himself, or he would have held her chin in his hand, while he himself

stood shivering for hours in three feet of water, and tried his best to

disguise his opinion as to the hopelessness of her ever learning to swim.

To-day he would frankly tell her she had better play tennis for a year or

two with a "marker" or struggle at swimming by herself, and any sensible

girl would take that advice!

=FOR WHAT SHE REALLY IS=

Instead of depending upon beauty, upon sex-appeal, the young girl who is

"the success of to-day" depends chiefly upon her actual character and

disposition. It is not even so necessary to do something well as to

refrain from doing things badly. If she is not good at sports, or games,

or dancing, then she must find out what she is good at and do that! If she

is good for nothing but to look in the glass and put rouge on her lips and

powder her nose and pat her hair, life is going to be a pretty dreary

affair. In other days beauty was worshiped for itself alone, and it has

votaries of sorts to-day. But the best type of modern youth does not care

for beauty, as his father did; in fact, he doesn't care a bit for it, if

it has nothing to "go with it," any more than he cares for butter with no

bread to spread it on. Beauty _and_ wit, _and_ heart, _and_ other

qualifications or attributes is another matter altogether.

A gift of more value than beauty, is charm, which in a measure is another

word for sympathy, or the power to put yourself in the place of others; to

be interested in whatever interests them, so as to be pleasing to them, if

possible, but not to occupy your thoughts in futilely wondering what they

think about you.

Would you know the secret of popularity? It is unconsciousness of self,

altruistic interest, and inward kindliness, outwardly expressed in good

manners.

Etiquette(#14314) · 第 18 / 38 章