1746-1748. ÆT. 35-37.
Hume returns to Ninewells--His domestic Position--His attempts
in Poetry--Inquiry as to his Sentimentalism--Takes an interest
in Politics--Appointed Secretary to General St. Clair on his
mission to Turin--His journal of his Tour--Arrival in Holland
--Rotterdam--The Hague--Breda--The War--French Soldiers--
Nimeguen--Cologne--Bonn--The Rhine and its scenery--Coblentz--
Wiesbaden--Frankfurt--Battle of Dettingen--Wurzburg--Ratisbon
--Descent of the Danube--Observations on Germany--Vienna--The
Emperor and Empress Queen--Styria--Carinthia--The Tyrol--
Mantua--Cremona--Turin.
We now find Hume restored, though but for a brief period, to the
tranquil retirement of Ninewells; and undisturbed by public events,
civil or warlike, sitting down quietly among his books in the midst of
his family circle, consisting of his mother, his elder brother, and his
sister. It would be interesting to obtain a glimpse of this circle and
its habits; but the lapse of nearly a century has thrown it too far into
the shade of time, to permit of these minute objects being
distinguished. Perhaps the following scrap from the papers preserved by
Hume himself,[225:1] may represent the evening diversions of Ninewells.
It is written by another hand, but is touched and corrected here and
there by Hume. Whether or not it is intended to have any reference to
himself, is a matter on which I shall not attempt to forestall the
reader's judgment.
_Character of ----, written by himself._
1. A very good man, the constant purpose of whose life is to do
mischief.
2. Fancies he is disinterested, because he substitutes vanity in place
of all other passions.
3. Very industrious, without serving either himself or others.
4. Licentious in his pen, cautious in his words, still more so in his
actions.
5. Would have had no enemies, had he not courted them; seems desirous of
being hated by the public, but has only attained the being railed at.
6. Has never been hurt by his enemies, because he never hated any one of
them.
7. Exempt from vulgar prejudices--full of his own.
8. Very bashful, somewhat modest, no way humble.
9. A fool, capable of performances which few wise men can execute.
10. A wise man, guilty of indiscretions which the greatest simpletons
can perceive.
11. Sociable, though he lives in solitude.
12.[226:1]
13. An enthusiast, without religion; a philosopher, who despairs to
attain truth.
A moralist, who prefers instinct to reason.
A gallant, who gives no offence to husbands and mothers.
A scholar, without the ostentation of learning.
Sir Walter Scott says:--"We visited Corby castle on our return to
Scotland, which remains, in point of situation, as beautiful as when its
walks were celebrated by David Hume, in the only rhymes he was ever
known to be guilty of. Here they are from a pane of glass in an inn at
Carlisle,--
Here chicks in eggs for breakfast sprawl,
Here godless boys God's glories squall,
Here Scotchmen's heads do guard the wall,
But Corby's walks atone for all."[227:1]
In the face, both of this assurance of the limited extent of Hume's
poetical efforts, and of the circumstance that he was occasionally in
the practice of copying such verses as pleased his ear,[227:2] or fancy,
I venture to offer the following specimens of his versification,
admitting the possibility but not the probability that some minute
investigator might be able to identify them as the production of a less
distinguished bard. The censorious critic will probably admit their
genuineness, on the plea that no one but their author would commit such
verses to writing. But apart from their internal evidence, there is
every reason to presume that these efforts are by Hume. The first piece
is dated in the writer's hand, as if to mark the day when it was
composed. With the exception of the third in order, they all contain,
in corrections and otherwise, decided marks of being composed by the
person in whose handwriting they are; and they are in the handwriting of
David Hume.[228:1]
_4th Nov. 1747._
Go, plaintive sounds, and to the fair
My secret wounds impart,
Tell all I hope, tell all I fear,
Each motion in my heart.
But she, methinks, is listening now
To some amusing strain,
The smile that triumphs o'er her brow,
Seems not to heed my pain.
Yet, plaintive sounds--yet, yet delay,
Howe'er my love repine,
Let this gay minute pass away,
The next, perhaps, is mine.
Yes, plaintive sounds, no longer crost,
Your griefs shall soon be o'er;
Her cheek, undimpled now, has lost
The smile it lately wore.
Yes, plaintive sounds, she now is yours,
'Tis now your turn to move:
Essay to soften all her powers,
And be that softness love.
Cease plaintive sounds, your task is done,
That serious tender air
Proves o'er her heart the conquest won,
I see you melting there.
Return, ye smiles,--return again,
Bring back each sprightly grace:
I yield up to your charming reign
That sweet enchanting face.
I take no outward shows amiss;
Rove where you will, her eyes:
Still let her smiles each shepherd bless,
So that she hear my sighs.
If this piece be deficient in fire or polish, it has at least the merit
of simplicity, and of not being a slavish adaptation to the formal
taste of the age. The following pieces will scarcely perhaps be thought
worthy of the like qualified praise.
Tell me, Clarinda, why this scorn,
Why hatred give for love?
Why for a gentler purpose born,
Wouldst thou a tyrant prove?
Why draw a cloud upon that face,
Made to enslave mankind?
Why through your lips does thunder pass,
Those lips for love design'd.
Kindness, conjoin'd with meaner charms,
Will from you conquests gain;
We fly into _extended_ arms,
In _close-embraced_ remain.
Thus when the angry heavens transform
To frowns their cheerful smiles,
When the dread thunder's voice a storm
To trembling swains foretells,
If but a humble cottage nigh
Presents its peaceful shade,
We scorn the furies of the sky,
And court its friendly aid.
TO A LADY,
_Suspecting that the friendship of men to her sex always concealed a
more dangerous passion._
Hang, my lyre, upon the willow,
Sigh to winds thy notes forlorn,
Or along the foaming billow,
Float the wrecking tempest's scorn.
Airs no more thy warbling raises,
Such as Laura deigns approve;
Laura scorns her poet's praises,
Artless friendship calls it love.
Impious love, that, spurning duty,
Spurning nature's chastest ties,
Mocks thy tears, dejected beauty,
Sports with fallen virtue's sighs.
Call it love no more, profaning
Truth with dark suspicion's wound;
Or, if still the term retaining,
Change the sense, preserve the sound.
Yes, 'tis love, that name is given,
Angels, to your purest flames;
Such a love as merits Heaven,
Heaven's divinest image claims.
LAURA'S ANSWER.
Soon be thy lyre to winds consign'd.
Or hurl'd beneath the raging deep;
For while such strains seduce my mind,
How shall my heart its purpose keep.
Thy artless lays, which artless seem,
With too much fondness I approve;
Oh write no more in such a theme,
Or Laura's friendship ends in love.
The question, whether the man concerning whom a biographical work is
written was ever in love, is an important feature in his history, if any
light can be thrown upon it. Perhaps some readers will hold, that the
tameness of these verses show that, at all events, when he wrote _them_,
Hume was under the impulse of no passion. Very little more light can be
brought to bear on this subject; and what can be obtained, is of a like
faint and negative cast. He tells us in his "own life," "As I took a
particular pleasure in the company of modest women, I had no reason to
be displeased with the reception I met with from them." In his essays he
frequently discusses the passion of love, dividing it into its elements
about as systematically as if he had subjected it to a chemical
analysis, and laying down rules regarding it as distinctly and
specifically as if it were a system of logic. Nor do the references in
his correspondence to any individuals of the other sex, show any
perceptible warmth of sentiment. In a letter to Henry Home, of which the
other portions are printed above,[232:1] he speaks with perhaps as much
appearance of sentiment as any where else, when he says,--
"I thank Mrs. Home for her intelligence, and have much employed my brain
to find out the person she means. It could not be the widow: for she
toasts always the Duke of Argyle or Lord Stair, and never would name a
young man whom she may reasonably enough suppose to be in love with her.
I shall therefore flatter myself it was Miss Dalrymple. It is now
Exchequer term: she is among the few _very fine ladies_ of Mrs. Home's
acquaintance, whom I have the happiness of knowing. In short, many
circumstances, besides my earnest wishes, concur to make me believe it
was she who did me that honour. I will persevere in that opinion; unless
you think it proper to disabuse me, for fear of my being too much puft
up with vanity by such a conceit."
His friend Jardine, writing to him when he was secretary of legation in
France, says, evidently in ironical reference to his notorious want of
sensibility in this respect, "An inordinate love of the fair sex, as I
have often told you, is one of those sins, that always, even from your
earliest years, did most easily beset you."
Nor does the following passage in a letter from Mr. Crawford,[233:1]
dated, London, 9th December, 1766, seem to convey any more serious
charge:--
"What keeps you in Scotland? Lord Ossory says, it can be nothing but the
young beauty for whom you had formerly some passion. But we are both of
opinion, that she must now be old and ugly, and cannot be worthy to
detain you in so vile a country. Neither love nor wit can flourish
there, otherwise you would not have cracked such bad jokes upon
philosophers, the best subject in the world for joking upon. Then,
--fuge nate Deâ--_sterili teque abstrahe terrâ_.
Come up here, and I know not but what I may be able to introduce you to
a young beauty, such as your imagination never figured to itself. With
charms and accomplishments possessed by no other woman, she has an
understanding equal to that of Madame du Deffand.--Would to God she were
blind like her too, that I might dare to avow my passion for her."
If there be any thing in these passages tending to show a slight degree
of interest in the sex, their tendency will perhaps be fully neutralized
by Hume's exultation on the fortunate nature of his own happy
indifference, in a letter to Oswald, which will be found a few pages
farther on. It must be confessed, indeed, that, according to all
appearance, the appellation, more expressive than classical, frequently
used on such occasions, is applicable to Hume, and that he was a "sad
indifferent dog."
To return to the verses.--The following is a specimen of a totally
different cast; and, if less ambitious in its pretensions, it will
probably be thought to have more successfully accomplished what it aims
at. It is called "An Epistle to Mr. John Medina," a son of Sir John
Medina, the celebrated painter, to whom, probably from the habits hinted
at in the verses, he was a far inferior artist. He is believed to have
been the painter of a large portion of the very numerous extant
portraits of Queen Mary. It would be difficult at this day to discover
the individual whom he is here called upon to portray, with attributes
about as grotesque as those of his inexplicable countryman, Aiken Drum.
As several names of persons who were active supporters of the measures
of social economy, and the agricultural improvements alluded to in the
verses, might be adduced, but no one can be named to whom they appear
distinctly and exclusively to apply, it may be less invidious to present
them in the form of a purely imaginative picture, than to associate them
with any name.
AN EPISTLE TO MR. JOHN MEDINA.
Now, dear Medina, honest John,
Since all your former friends are gone,
And even Macgibbon 's turn'd a saint,[234:1]
You now perhaps have time to paint.
For you, and for your pencil fit,
The subject shall be full of wit.
Draw me a little lively knight,
And place the figure full in sight.
With mien erect, and sprightly air,
To win the great, and catch the fair.
Make him a wreath of turnip tops,
With madder interwove, and hops;
Lucerne, and St. Foin, here and there,
Amid the foliage must appear;
Then add potatoes, white and red,
A garland for our hero's head.
His coat be of election laws,
Lined with the patriot's good old cause.
His waistcoat of the linen bill,
Lapelled with flint and lined with tull.
The turnpike act must serve for breeches;
With hose of rape tied up with fetches,
Furrows, new horse-hoed, hide his shoes,
As earnest cross the fields he goes.
Draw Pallas offering him a spool,
The Lemnian god a miner's tool.
Ceres three stalks of blighted corn,
Dangling from an inverted horn;
And Plutus every scheme inspiring
With proffer'd gold, but still retiring:
Alike to each important call,
Attentive, let him grasp at all.
Finish, my friend, this grand design,
And immortality be thine.
No more obliged, for twenty groats,
To draw the Duke, or Queen of Scots,
Your name shall rise, prophetic fame says,
Above your Mercis[235:1] or your Ramsays.
Even I, in literary story,
Perhaps shall have my share of glory.
Hume was again called away from the studious retirement of Ninewells, by
being appointed secretary to the mission of his friend General St.
Clair, to the court of Turin. The real object of the mission, in
whatever aspect it might have been openly represented, certainly was to
satisfy the British court on the question, whether Sardinia, and perhaps
some of the other stipendiary states, had furnished their respective
quotas of men to the war. The following letter by Hume to his friend
Oswald, details many of his feelings on assuming this new duty. It will
be found to be as different in tone from his previous letters, as the
life he was entering on was different from his hermit retirement at
Ninewells, or his slavery at Weldhall. This letter, indeed, appears to
mark an epoch in his correspondence. It is the first in which he
mentions miscellaneous public events, with the feeling of one who takes
an interest in the living politics of his time; and shows that the brief
episode of active practical life, in which he had just borne a share,
and the prospect of a renewal of such scenes, had opened his mind to the
reception of external impressions.
HUME _to_ JAMES OSWALD.
"I have little more to say to you than to bid you adieu before I leave
this country. I got an invitation from General St. Clair, to attend him
in his new employment at the court of Turin, which I hope will prove an
agreeable, if not a profitable jaunt for me. I shall have an opportunity
of seeing courts and camps; and if I can afterwards be so happy as to
attain leisure and other opportunities, this knowledge may even turn to
account to me, as a man of letters, which, I confess, has always been
the sole object of my ambition. I have long had an intention, in my
riper years, of composing some history; and I question not but some
greater experience in the operations of the field, and the intrigues of
the cabinet, will be requisite, in order to enable me to speak with
judgment upon these subjects. But, notwithstanding of these flattering
ideas of futurity, as well as the present charms of variety, I must
confess that I left home with infinite regret, where I had treasured up
stores of study and plans of thinking for many years. I am sure I shall
not be so happy as I should have been had I prosecuted these. But, in
certain situations, a man dares not follow his own judgment or refuse
such offers as these.
"The subscriptions for the stocks were filled up with wonderful
quickness this year; but, as the ministry had made no private bargains
with stock-jobbers, but opened books for every body, these money-dealers
have clogged the wheels a little, and the subscribers find themselves
losers on the disposal of their stock, to their great surprise.
"There was a controverted election, that has made some noise, betwixt
John Pitt and Mr. Drax of the Prince's family, when Mr. Pelham, finding
himself under a necessity of disobliging the heir-apparent, resolved to
have others as deep in the scrape as himself; and accordingly obliged
Fox, Pitt, Lyttelton, and Hume Campbell, all to speak on the same side.
They say their speeches were very diverting. An ass could not mumble a
thistle more ridiculously than they handled this subject. Particularly
our countryman, not being prepared, was not able to speak a word to the
subject, but spent half an hour in protestations of his own integrity,
disinterestedness, and regard to every man's right and property.
"His brother, Lord Marchmont, has had the most extraordinary adventure
in the world. About three weeks ago he was at the play, where he espied
in one of the boxes a fair virgin, whose looks, air, and manner, made
such a powerful and wonderful effect upon him as was visible to every
bystander. His raptures were so undisguised, his looks so expressive of
passion, his inquiries so earnest, that every body took notice of it. He
soon was told that her name was Crompton, a linen-draper's daughter,
that had been bankrupt last year, and had not been able to pay above
five shillings in the pound. The fair nymph herself was about sixteen or
seventeen, and being supported by some relations, appeared in every
public place, and had fatigued every eye but that of his Lordship,
which, being entirely employed in the severer studies, had never till
that fatal moment opened upon her charms. Such and so powerful was their
effect, as to be able to justify all the Pharamonds and Cyruses in their
utmost extravagancies. He wrote next morning to her father, desiring
leave to visit his daughter on honourable terms; and in a few days she
will be Countess of Marchmont.[238:1] All this is certainly true. They
say many small fevers prevent a great one. Heaven be praised that I have
always liked the persons and company of the fair sex! for by that means
I hope to escape such ridiculous passions. But could you ever suspect
the ambitious, the severe, the bustling, the impetuous, the violent
Marchmont, of becoming so tender and gentle a swain--an Artamenes, an
Oroondates?
"The officers, (I suppose from effeminacy,) are generally much disgusted
at the service. They speak of no less than three hundred, high and low,
who have desired leave to sell out. I am," &c.[238:2]
"_London, January 29, 1748._"
On the same occasion he writes the following short letter to Henry Home.
"_London, Feb. 9. 1748._
"DEAR SIR,--The doubt and ambiguity with which I came hither was soon
removed. General St. Clair positively refused to accept of a secretary
from the ministry; and I go along with him in the same station as
before. Every body congratulates me upon the pleasure I am to reap from
this jaunt: and really I have little to oppose to this prepossession,
except an inward reluctance to leave my books, and leisure and retreat.
However, I am glad to find this passion still so fresh and entire; and
am sure, by its means, to pass my latter days happily and cheerfully,
whatever fortune may attend me.
"I leave here two works going on: a new edition of my Essays, all of
which you have seen, except one, 'Of the Protestant Succession,' where I
treat that subject as coolly and indifferently as I would the dispute
between Cæsar and Pompey. The conclusion shows me a Whig, but a very
sceptical one. Some people would frighten me with the consequences that
may attend this candour, considering my present station; but I own I
cannot apprehend any thing.
"The other work is the 'Philosophical Essays,' which you dissuaded me
from printing. I won't justify the prudence of this step, any other way
than by expressing my indifference about all the consequences that may
follow. I will expect to hear from you; as you may from me. Remember me
to Mrs. Home, and believe me to be yours most sincerely.
"P.S.--We set out on Friday next for Harwich."[239:1]
Of his second appointment under General St. Clair, on the duties of
which he entered at the beginning of the year 1748, Hume thus speaks in
his "own life," after having mentioned the descent on the coast of
France,--
"Next year, to wit, 1747, I received an invitation from the General to
attend him in the same station in his military embassy to the courts of
Vienna and Turin. I then wore the uniform of an officer, and was
introduced at these courts as aid-de-camp to the General, along with Sir
Harry Erskine and Captain Grant, now General Grant. These two years were
almost the only interruptions which my studies have received during the
course of my life. I passed them agreeably, and in good company; and my
appointments, with my frugality, had made me reach a fortune, which I
called independent, though most of my friends were inclined to smile
when I said so: in short, I was now master of near a thousand pounds."
We fortunately possess a more detailed account of his adventures and
observations on this occasion, in a pretty minute journal which he
transmitted to his brother, for the amusement of his family at
home.[240:1] It requires no farther introduction, and is as follows:--
"_Hague, 3d March, 1748, N. S._
"DEAR BROTHER,--I have taken a fancy, for your amusement, to write a
sort of journal of our travels, and to send you the whole from Turin, by
a messenger whom we are to despatch from thence. I shall endeavour to
find little snatches of leisure in the several towns through which we
shall pass, and shall give you an account of the appearances of things,
more than of our own adventures. The former may be some entertainment,
but the other will in all probability contain little diversity, at least
for some time.
"We set out from Harwich the day I wrote you last, and in twenty-four
hours arrived at Helvoet-Sluys. I had the misfortune to be excessively
sick, but the consolation to see an admiral as sick as myself. 'Twas
Admiral Forbes, the most agreeable, sensible sea officer in England.
Harwich and Helvoet are the general images in abridgment of all the
towns in the two countries; both of them small sea-port towns, without
much trade, or any support but passengers; yet the industry, economy,
and cleanliness of the Dutch, have made the latter the much prettier
town. The day of our arrival we lay at Rotterdam, and passed through the
Brill and Maeslan-Sluys. Yesterday we lay at this place. Holland has the
beauties of novelty to a stranger, as being so much different from all
the other parts of the world; but not those of diversity, for every part
of it is like another. 'Tis an unbounded plain, divided by canals, and
ditches, and rivers. The sea higher than the country, the towns higher
than the sea, and the ramparts higher than the towns. The country is in
general pretty open, except a few willow trees, and the avenues of elm,
which lead to their towns, and shade the ramparts. But the country is at
present covered with snow, so that it is difficult to judge of it. Were
the season favourable, the way of travelling would be very pleasant,
being along the dykes, which gives you a perfect prospect of the whole
country. I need not describe the beauty and elegance of the Dutch towns,
particularly of the Hague, which nothing can exceed. Rotterdam is also a
handsome town. The mixture of houses, trees, and ships, has a fine
effect, and unites town, country, and sea, in one prospect. Every person
and every house has the appearance of plenty and sobriety, of industry
and ease. I own, however, that the outside of their houses are the best;
they are too slight, full of bad windows, and not very well contrived."
"_Hague, 10th March._
"The General intended to have left this place to-day, but was detained
by the arrival of his Royal Highness,[242:1] which will retard him a day
or two longer. We go first to Breda, where the General's two battalions
lie, out of which he will endeavour to form one good healthy battalion
to remain here. The other returns to Scotland. We go in a day or two.
The Prince of Orange's authority seems firmly established, and for the
present is as absolute as that of any king in Europe; the favour of the
people is the foundation of it.[242:2] He is certainly a man of great
humanity and moderation, but his courage and capacity is perhaps a
little more doubtful. The present emergencies have given him an
opportunity of establishing his authority on a firmer bottom than
popular favour; viz. on foreign and mercenary forces. The Dutch troops
have behaved so ill, that the people themselves are willing to see them
disgraced, and discredited, and broke; so that the prince has been able
to make great distinctions in favour of foreigners, with the good will
of the people, who see the necessity of it.
"He has broke all the Dutch troops that were prisoners in France, but
keeps up the foreigners that were in the same condition; and the latter
are chiefly encouraged in every thing. Great and universal joy appeared
on the birth of the young prince while we were there, though all the
arrangements were taken to have the young princess succeed, and
particularly, she was named colonel of a regiment of guards.
"This is a place of little or no amusement, nor has the court made much
difference in this respect. No balls, no comedy, no opera. The prince
gives great application to business, which, however, they pretend does
not advance very much. But this we may venture to say, that Holland was
undoubtedly ruined by its liberty, and has now a chance of being saved
by its prince. Let republicans make the best of this example they can.
"'Tis here regarded as a point indisputable, that the old governors were
in concert with the French, and were resolved, by delivering up town
after town, and army after army, to have peace, though at the price of
slavery and dependence. 'Tis a pity that the scrupulous and
conscientious character of the prince has not allowed him to make some
examples of these rascals, against whom, 'tis said, there could have
been legal proofs. It was not the mob, properly speaking, that made the
revolution, but the middling and substantial tradesmen. At Rotterdam
particularly, these sent a regular deputation to the magistrates,
requiring the establishment of the Prince of Orange, telling them, at
the same time, that if their request was refused, they could no longer
answer for the mob. This hint was sufficiently understood, and gave an
example to all the other towns in the province.
"The only violence offered, was that of throwing into the canals whoever
wore not Orange ribbons. Every yellow rag, woollen, silk, and linen,
were employed; and when these were exhausted, the flowers were made use
of; and happily the revolution began in the spring, when the primroses
and daffodillys could serve as Orange cockades. To this day, every
boor, and tradesman, and schoolboy, wears the ensigns of the prince; and
every street in every village, as well as in every town, has triumphal
arches with emblematical figures and Latin inscriptions, such as,
'Tandem justitia triumphat,' 'Novus ab integro sæclorum nascitur ordo,'
'Vox populi, vox Dei.' I shall only say, if this last motto be true, the
Prince of Orange is the only _Jure divino_ monarch in the universe. I
believe, since the time of Germanicus, deservedly the darling of the
Romans, never was a people so fond of one man; surely there entered not
the smallest intrigue of his own into his election. There is something
of innocence and simplicity in his character, which promotes more his
popularity than the greatest capacity. But,
Non tali auxilio, nec defensoribus istis
Tempus eget.
"_Breda, 16th March._
"We arrived here the day before yesterday, in three days from the Hague,
and as the snows were then melted, after the most violent frost in the
world, we discovered Holland in all its native deformity. Nothing can be
more disagreeable than that heap of dirt, and mud, and ditches, and
reeds, which they here call a country, except the silly collection of
shells and clipped evergreens which they call a garden. It gave us a
sensible pleasure, as we came near Breda, to find ourselves on a dry
barren heath, and to see something like a human habitation. I have heard
that a man, from the aspect of Holland, would imagine that land and
water, after many struggles which should be master of it, had at last
agreed to share it betwixt them. If so, the land has come by much the
worst bargain, and has much the smallest share of the possession. I am
told, however, that Holland is a pleasant enough habitation in the
summer: though even that beauty lasts a very short time; for, during the
latter end of summer and during the harvest, the canals send forth so
disagreeable and unwholesome a smell, that there is no enduring of it.
"We passed over the Maese at Gorcum, where it is above half a mile
broad; and as the ice had been softened by a thaw of three or four days,
we were obliged to make use of an ice boat. The operation is after this
manner: you place yourself on your ice boat, which is like an ordinary
boat, except only that it runs upon two keels, shod with iron. Three or
four men push you along in this boat, very cleverly, as long as the ice
will bear you: but whenever that fails, plump down you go into the water
of a sudden. You are very heartily frightened. The men are wet, up to
the neck sometimes; but, keeping hold of the boat, leap in, row you
through the water, till they come to ice which can bear. There they pull
you up, run along with you, till you sink again; and so they renew the
same operation.
"At Gorcum we met with Drumlanrig's regiment, which does no great honour
to their country by their looks and appearances. There has been a mutiny
amongst them, out of discontent to the country. We met with some
Highlanders, who regretted extremely their native hills.
"The night we came to Breda we supped with Lord Albemarle, who told us,
in entering, that we might soon expect to hear of a battle in the
neighbourhood; and accordingly, in about an hour, a messenger came in
with the news, which is the best we have had in the Low Countries during
the whole war. You have no doubt heard of it. It was the attack of a
convoy to Bergen-op-Zoom, escorted by about 5000 French, where 400 were
killed, and about 1000 taken prisoners.[246:1] Next day, the prisoners
were led through the town. They were the piquets of several old
regiments, and some companies of grenadiers; but such pitiful-looking
fellows never man set eye on. France is surely much exhausted of men,
when she can fill her armies with such poor wretches. We all said, when
they passed along, are these the people that have beat us so often?
"I stood behind Lord Albemarle, who was looking over a low window to see
them. One of the ragged scarecrows, seeing his lordship's star and
ribbon, turned about to him, and said very briskly, 'Aujourd'hui pour
vous, Monsieur, demain pour le roi.' If they have all this spirit, no
wonder they beat us. However, when one compares to the French the
figures of men that are in this town, British, Hessians, and Austrians,
they seem almost of a different species. Their officers expect they will
all do much better after having had leisure to see their enemy. Breda is
a strong town, though not near so strong as Bergen-op-zoom. It is almost
surrounded by water, and inaccessible except in one place, by which it
will be taken, if the 206,000 men, whom we are to have in the field this
year, in the Low Countries, cannot save it. 'Tis certain so many men are
stipulated by the several powers,--the greatest army that ever was
assembled together in the world, since the Xerxeses and Artaxerxeses; if
these could be called armies. God prosper his royal highness, and give
him what he only wants; I mean good fortune, to second his prudence and
conduct.
"The French certainly have laid their account to give up Flanders by
the peace; they squeeze, and oppress, and tax and abuse the Flemings so
much, that 'tis evident they consider them not as subjects. They are
also said to be pretty heartily tired of the war, notwithstanding of
their great successes. I suppose the loss of their trade pinches them;
so that there are some hopes of a peace, which may not be altogether
intolerable. By the conversation I have had with several judicious
officers, I find that Mareschal Saxe and Lowendahl, though sensible men
and of great experience, are not regarded as such mighty generals as we
are apt to imagine them at a distance, from their victories and
conquests. Their blunders last campaign were many and obvious, and
particularly that of besieging Bergen-op-zoom. 'Twas a thousand to one
they got it, and it serves them to no purpose when they have it: It is
not by that quarter they can penetrate into the Provinces."
"_Nimeguen, 20th March._
"We have come from Breda in two days, and lay last night at Bois-le-duc,
which is situated in the midst of a lake, and is absolutely impregnable.
That part of Brabant, through which we travelled, is not very fertile,
and is full of sandy heaths. Nimeguen is in the Gueldre, the pleasantest
province of the seven, perhaps of the seventeen. The land is beautifully
divided into heights and plains, and is cut by the branches of the
Rhine. Nimeguen has a very commanding prospect, and the country below it
is particularly remarkable at present because of the innundation of the
Wahal, a branch of the Rhine, which covers the whole fields for several
leagues; and you see nothing but the tops of trees standing up amidst
the waters, which recalls the idea of Egypt during the inundations of
the Nile. Nimeguen is a well-built town, not very strong, though
surrounded with a great many works. Here we met our machines, which came
hither by a shorter road from the Hague. They are a berline for the
general and his company, and a chaise for the servants. We set out
to-morrow, and pass by Cologne, Frankfort, and Ratisbon, till we meet
with the Danube, and then we sail down that river for two hundred and
fifty miles to Vienna.
"_Cologne, 23d March._
"We came hither last night, and have travelled through an extreme
pleasant country along the banks of the Rhine. Particularly Cleves,
which belongs to the King of Prussia, is very agreeable, because of the
beauty of the roads, which are avenues bordered with fine trees. The
land in that province is not fertile, but is well cultivated. The
bishoprick of Cologne is more fertile and adorned with fine woods as
well as Cleves. The country is all very populous, the houses good, and
the inhabitants well clothed and well fed. This is one of the largest
cities in Europe, being near a league in diameter. The houses are all
high; and there is no interval of gardens or fields. So that you would
expect it must be very populous. But it is not so. It is extremely
decayed, and is even falling to ruin. Nothing can strike one with more
melancholy than its appearance, where there are marks of past opulence
and grandeur, but such present waste and decay, as if it had lately
escaped a pestilence or famine. We are told, that it was formerly the
centre of all the trade of the Rhine, which has been since removed to
Holland, Liege, Frankfort, &c. Here we see the Rhine in its natural
state; being only a little higher (but no broader) on account of the
melting of the snows. I think it is as broad as from the foot of your
house to the opposite banks of the river."
"_Bonne, 24th March._
"This is about six leagues from Cologne, a pleasant well-built little
town, upon the banks of the Rhine, and is the seat of the archbishop. We
have bestowed half a day in visiting his palace, which is an extensive
magnificent building; and he is certainly the best lodged prince in
Europe except the King of France. For, besides this palace, and a sort
of Maison de Plaisance near it, (the most elegant thing in the world,)
he has also two country houses very magnificent. He is the late
emperor's brother; and is, as they say, a very fine gentleman;--a man of
pleasure, very gallant and gay; he has always at his court a company of
French comedians and Italian singers. And as he always keeps out of
wars, being protected by the sacredness of his character, he has nothing
to hope and nothing to fear; and seems to be the happiest prince in
Europe. However, we could wish he took a little more care of his
high-ways, even though his furniture, pictures, and building were a
little less elegant. We are got into a country where we have no fires
but stoves; and no covering but feather beds; neither of which I like,
both of them are too warm and suffocating."
"_Coblentz, 26th March._
"We have made the pleasantest journey in the world in two days from
Bonne to this town. We travel all along the banks of the Rhine;
sometimes in open, beautiful, well-cultivated plains; at another time
sunk betwixt high mountains, which are only divided by the Rhine, the
finest river in the world. One of these mountains is always covered with
wood to the top; the other with vines; and the mountain is so steep that
they are obliged to support the earth by walls, which rise one above
another like terraces to the length of forty or fifty stories. Every
quarter of a mile, (indeed as often as there is any flat bottom for a
foundation,) you meet with a handsome village, situated in the most
romantic manner in the world. Surely there never was such an assemblage
of the wild and cultivated beauties in one scene. There are also several
magnificent convents and palaces to embellish the prospects.
"This is a very thriving well-built town, situated at the confluence of
the Moselle and the Rhine, and consequently very finely situated. Over
the former river there is a handsome stone bridge; over the latter a
flying bridge, which is a boat fixed by a chain: this chain is fixed by
an anchor to the bottom of the middle of the river far above, and is
supported by seven little boats placed at intervals that keep it along
the surface of the water. By means of the rudder, they turn the head of
the large boat to the opposite bank, and the current of the river
carries it over of itself. It goes over in about four minutes, and will
carry four or five hundred people. It stays about five or six minutes
and then returns. Two men are sufficient to guide it, and it is
certainly a very pretty machine. There is the like at Cologne. This town
is the common residence of the Archbishop of Treves, who has here a
pretty magnificent palace. We have now travelled along a great part of
that country, through which the Duke of Marlborough marched up his army,
when he led them into Bavaria. 'Tis of this country Mr. Addison speaks
when he calls the people--
Nations of slaves by Tyranny debased,
Their Maker's image more than half-defaced.
And he adds that the soldiers were--
Hourly instructed as they urge their toil,
To prize their Queen and love their native soil.
"If any foot soldier could have more ridiculous national prejudices than
the poet, I should be much surprised. Be assured there is not a finer
country in the world; nor are there any signs of poverty among the
people. But John Bull's prejudices are ridiculous, as his insolence is
intolerable."
"_Frankfort, 28th March._
"Our road from Coblentz to this passes through a great many princes'
territories; Nassau's, Hesse's, Baden's, Mentz, and this Republic, &c.
and there is as great a diversity in the nature of the country. The
first part of the road from Coblentz to Weis-Baden is very mountainous
and woody, but populous and well-cultivated. In many places the snow is
lying very thick. The road is disagreeable for a coach; sometimes you go
along the side of a hill with a precipice below you, and have not an
inch to spare; and the road hanging all the way towards the precipice,
so that one had need to have a good head to look out of the windows.
Nassau, the prince of Orange's capital, is but a village, and one of the
most indifferent I have seen in Germany. Betwixt Weis-Baden and
Frankfort we travel along the banks of the Maine, and see one of the
finest plains in the world. I never saw such rich soil nor better
cultivated; all in corn and sown grass. For we have not met with any
natural grass in Germany.
"Frankfort is a very large town, well-built and of great riches and
commerce. Around it there are several little country houses of the
citizens, the first of that kind we have seen in Germany; for every
body, except the farmers, live in towns, and these dwell all in
villages. Whether this be for company or protection, or devotion, I
cannot tell. But it has certainly its inconveniences. Princes have also
seats in the country, and monks have their convents; but no private
gentleman ever dwells there. To-morrow we pass over the field of
Dettingen. We saw Heighst [Höchst] to-day, where Lord Stair past the
Maine, and was recalled. The post he took seems not so good as we have
heard it represented. We saw General Mordaunt at Cologne, who was at the
battle of Dettingen, and gave us an exact description of the whole,
which we are to-morrow to compare with the field. Frankfort is a
Protestant town."
"_Wurtzburg, 30th March._
"The first town we come to after leaving Frankfort is Hanau, which
belongs to the Landgrave of Hesse, and where there is a palace, that may
lodge any king in Europe, though the Landgrave never almost lives there.
Hanau is a very beautiful, well-built, but not large town, on the banks
of the Maine. All the houses almost in Germany are of plaster, either
upon brick or wood, but very neatly done, and many of them painted over,
which makes them look very gay. Their peasants' houses are sometimes
plaster, sometimes clay upon wood, two stories high, and look very well.
"Next post beyond Hanau is the village of Dettingen, where we walked out
and surveyed the field of battle,[252:1] accompanied with the
postmaster, who saw the battle from his windows. Good God, what an
escape we made there! The Maine is a large river not fordable; this lay
on our left hand. On our right, high mountains covered with thick wood,
for several leagues. The plain is not half a mile broad. The French were
posted by Noailles with their right supported by the river and the
village of Dettingen; their left by the mountains; on their front a
little rivulet, which formed some marshes and meadows altogether
impassable for the cavalry, and passable with difficulty by the
infantry. Add to this, that their cannon, played in safety on the other
side of the Maine, raked the whole plain before Dettingen, and took our
army in flank. Noailles had past the bridge of Aschaffenbourg which was
not broke down, and came up upon our rear; and our army was starving for
want of provisions.
"Such an arrangement of circumstances, as it were contrived to ruin an
army, a king and kingdom, never was before found in the world; and yet
there we gained a victory, by the folly of Grammont, who past that
rivulet, and met us in the open plain, before Noailles had come up. We
were travelling in great security, notwithstanding two repeated
informations that the French had past the Maine; the baggage of the army
was betwixt the two lines; and when the first cannons were fired,
Neuperg and Stair both agreed that it could be nothing but the French
signal guns. But when they were certain that the affair was more in
earnest, Stair said, 'Go to the king; I take nothing upon me.' Clayton
said, 'I will take it upon me, to remove the baggage.' And it was he
that made the little disposition that was made that day. The English
behaved ill: the French worse, which gave us the victory. But this
victory so unexpectedly gained, we pushed not as we ought, by the
counsel of Neuperg. What Lord Stair's whim was to advance to
Aschaffenbourg, where he was twenty-five miles from Frankfort, the place
of all his magazines, 'tis impossible to imagine. Surely he could
advance no farther, as he must have been convinced had he reconnoitred
the road. It runs over high mountains, and for twenty-five miles through
the thickest woods in the world.
"There is a pass three or four miles beyond Aschaffenbourg, where no
army could go with cannon and baggage. When we[254:1] came to the foot
of it a trumpeter met us, who played a tune for joy of our safe arrival;
and the like on our ascending the opposite hill. The woods beyond are
the finest I ever saw. Wurtzburg is a very well-built town, situated in
a fine valley on the Maine. The banks of the river are very high, and
covered with vines. The river runs through the town, and is passed on a
very handsome bridge. But what renders this town chiefly remarkable, is
a building which surprised us all, because we had never before heard of
it, and did not there expect to meet with such a thing. 'Tis a
prodigious magnificent palace of the bishop who is the sovereign. 'Tis
all of hewn stone and of the richest architecture. I do think the king
of France has not such a house. If it be less than Versailles, 'tis more
complete and finished. What a surprising thing it is, that these petty
princes can build such palaces: but it has been fifty years a rearing;
and 'tis the chief expense of ecclesiastics. The bishop of Wurtzburg is
chosen from amongst the canons, who have a very good artifice to
exclude princes. 'Tis a rule, that every one at entering shall receive a
very hearty drubbing from the rest: the brother of the elector of
Bavaria offered a million of florins, to be exempted from the ceremony,
and could not prevail."
"_Ratisbon, 2d April._
"We were all very much taken with the town of Nuremberg, where we lay
two nights ago; the houses, though old-fashioned, and of a grotesque
figure, (having sometimes five or six stories of garrets,) yet are they
solid, well built, complete, and cleanly. The people are handsome, well
clothed, and well fed; an air of industry and contentment, without
splendour, prevails through the whole. 'Tis a Protestant republic on the
banks of a river, (whose name I have forgot,[255:1]) that runs into the
Maine, and is navigable for boats. The town is of a large extent. On
leaving Nuremberg we entered into the elector of Bavaria's country,
where the contrast appeared very strong with the inhabitants of the
former republic. There was a great air of poverty in every face; the
first poverty indeed we had seen in Germany. We travelled also through
part of the elector Palatine's country, and then returned to Bavaria;
but though the country be good and well cultivated, and populous, the
inhabitants are not at their ease. The late miserable wars have no doubt
hurt them much. Ratisbon is a catholic republic situated on the banks of
the Danube. The houses and buildings, and aspect of the people, are well
enough, though not comparable to those of Nuremberg. 'Tis pretended that
the difference is always sensible betwixt a Protestant and Catholic
country, throughout all Germany; and perhaps there may be something in
this observation, though it is not every where sensible.
"We descend the Danube from this to Vienna; we go in a large boat about
eighty foot long, where we have three rooms, one for ourselves, a second
for the servants, and a third for our kitchen. 'Tis made entirely of fir
boards, and is pulled to pieces at Vienna, the wood sold, and the
watermen return to Ratisbon a-foot. We lie on shore every night. We are
all glad of this variety, being a little tired of our berline."
"_The Danube, 7th of April._
"We have really made a very pleasant journey, or rather voyage, with
good weather, sitting at our ease, and having a variety of scenes
continually presented to us, and immediately shifted, as it were in an
opera. The banks of the Danube are very wild and savage, and have a very
different beauty from those of the Rhine; being commonly high scraggy
precipices, covered all with firs. The water is sometimes so straitened
betwixt these mountains, that this immense river is often not sixty foot
broad. We have lain in and seen several very good towns in Bavaria and
Austria, such as Strauburg, Passau, Lintz; but what is most remarkable
is the great magnificence of some convents, particularly Moelk, where a
set of lazy rascals of monks live in the most splendid misery of the
world; for, generally speaking, their lives are as little to be envied
as their persons are to be esteemed.
"We enter Vienna in a few hours, and the country is here extremely
agreeable; the fine plains of the Danube began about thirty miles above,
and continued down, through Austria, Hungary, &c. till it falls into
the Black Sea. The river is very magnificent. Thus we have finished a
very agreeable journey of 860 miles (for so far is Vienna from the
Hague,) have past through many a prince's territories, and have had more
masters than many of these princes have subjects. Germany is undoubtedly
a very fine country, full of industrious honest people; and were it
united, it would be the greatest power that ever was in the world. The
common people are here, almost every where, much better treated, and
more at their ease, than in France; and are not very much inferior to
the English, notwithstanding all the airs the latter give themselves.
There are great advantages in travelling, and nothing serves more to
remove prejudices; for I confess I had entertained no such advantageous
idea of Germany; and it gives a man of humanity pleasure to see that so
considerable a part of mankind as the Germans are in so tolerable a
condition."
"_Vienna, 15th April._
"The last week was Easter week, and every body was at their devotions,
so that we saw not the court nor the emperor and empress, till
yesterday, when we were all introduced by Sir Thomas Robinson.[257:1]
They are a well-looked couple, the emperor has a great air of goodness,
and his royal consort of spirit. Her voice, and manner, and address are
the most agreeable that can be, and she made us several compliments on
our nation. She is not a beauty; but, being a sovereign, and a woman of
sense and spirit, no wonder she has met such extraordinary support from
her subjects, as well as from some other nations of Europe. However, the
English gallantry towards her is a little relaxed; and the King of
Sardinia is their present favourite. She begged of the general not to be
so much her enemy as his predecessor, General Wentworth, had been. He
replied, that a perfect impartiality was recommended him by the king,
his master; and that he was resolved to preserve it, though he confessed
that was difficult for a person who had had the honour of having had
access to her imperial majesty.
"We were introduced to-day to the archdukes and archduchesses (who are
fine children) and to the empress-dowager. She had seen no company for
two months; but, hearing that Englishmen desired to be introduced to
her, she immediately received us. You must know that you neither bow
nor kneel to emperors and empresses, but curtsy; so that, after we had
had a little conversation with her imperial majesty, we were to walk
backwards through a very long room, curtsying all the way, and there was
very great danger of our falling foul of each other, as well as of
tumbling topsy-turvy. She saw the difficulty we were in; and immediately
called to us: 'Allez, allez, Messieurs, sans cérémonie; vous n'êtes pas
accoutumés a ce mouvement, et le plancher est glissant.' We esteemed
ourselves very much obliged to her for this attention, especially my
companions, who were desperately afraid of my falling on them and
crushing them.
"This court is fine, without being gay; and the company is very
accessible, without being very sociable. When we were to be introduced
to the emperor and empress, Sir Thomas Robinson gathered us all together
into a window, that he might be able to carry us to them at once, when
the time should be proper. A lady came up to him, and asked him if these
were not his chickens he was gathering under his wings, after which she
joined conversation with us; and in a little time asked us, if we had
any acquaintance of the ladies of the court, and if we should not be
glad to know their names. We replied that she could not do us a greater
favour. 'Why, then,' says she, 'I shall tell you, beginning with myself;
I am the Countess'--she added her name, which I am sorry to have forgot.
We have met with several instances of these agreeable liberties. The
women here are many of them handsome; if you ever want toasts, please to
name, upon my authority, Mademoiselle Staremberg, or the Countess Palfì.
"The men are ugly and awkward. We have seen all those fierce heroes,
whom we have so often read of in gazettes, the Lichtensteins, the
Esterhasis, the Colloredos; most of them have red heels to their shoes,
and wear very well-dressed toupees.
"I have heard Maly Johnston say she was told that she was very like the
empress-queen. Please tell her it is not so. The empress, though not
very well shaped, is better than Maly; but she has not so good a face.
She looks also as if she were prouder and worse tempered. Apropos, to
our friends of Hutton hall, inform them that they have a very near
relation at this court, who is a prodigious fine gentleman, and a great
fool. His name is Sir James Caldwell.[260:1] He told me his grandmother
was a Hume, and that he expected soon to inherit a very fine estate by
her, which he was to share with the Johnstones in Scotland. But he says
it is only Wynne that has the half, not the ladies, who have no share;
so that you'll please tell Sophy that I am off; and give her her
liberty, notwithstanding all vows and promises that may have past
betwixt us."
"_Vienna, 25th April._
"We set out to-morrow, but go not by the way of Venice, as we at first
proposed. This is some mortification to us. We shall go, however, by
Milan. This town is very little for a capital, but excessively populous.
The houses are very high, the streets very narrow and crooked, so that
the many handsome buildings that are here, make not any figure. The
suburbs are spacious and open; but, on the whole, I can never believe
what they tell us, that there are two hundred thousand inhabitants in
it. It is composed entirely of nobility and of lackeys, of soldiers and
of priests. Now, I believe you'll allow, that in a town inhabited only
by these four sets of people above-mentioned, the empress-queen could
not have undertaken a more difficult task, than that which she has
magnanimously entered upon, viz. the producing an absolute chastity
amongst them. A court of chastity is lately erected here, who send all
loose women to the frontiers of Hungary, where they can only debauch
Turks and Infidels. I hope you will not pay your taxes with greater
grudge, because you hear that her imperial majesty, in whose service
they are to be spent, is so great a prude.
"There has been great noise made with us on account of the queen's new
palace at Schönbrunn. It is, indeed, a handsome house, but not very
great nor richly furnished. She said to the general last night, that not
a single soldier had gone to the building, whatever might be said in
England, but that she liked better to be tolerably lodged than to have
useless diamonds by her; and that she had sold all her crown jewels to
enable her to be at that expense. I think, for a sovereign, she is none
of the worst in Europe, and one cannot forbear liking her for the spirit
with which she looks, and speaks, and acts. But 'tis a pity her
ministers have so little sense.
"Prince Eugene's palace in the suburbs is an expensive stately building,
but of a very barbarous Gothic taste. He was _more skilled in battering
walls than building_, as was said of his friend, the Duke of
Marlborough. There is a room in it, where all Prince Eugene's battles
were painted: upon which the Portuguese ambassador told him, that the
whole house was indeed richly furnished, but that all the kings in
Europe could not furnish such a room as that. I have been pretty busy
since I came here, and have regretted it the less that there is no very
great amusement in this place. No Italian opera; no French comedy; no
dancing. I have, however, heard Monticelli, who is the next wonder of
the world to Farinelli."
"_Knittelfeldt in Styria, 28th April._
"This is about a hundred and twenty miles from Vienna. The first forty
is a fine well-cultivated plain, after which we enter the mountains;
and, as we are told, we have three hundred miles more of them before we
reach the plains of Lombardy. The way of travelling through a
mountainous country is generally very agreeable. We are obliged to trace
the course of the rivers, and are always in a pretty valley surrounded
by high hills; and have a constant and very quick succession of wild
agreeable prospects every quarter of a mile. Through Styria nothing can
be more curious than the scenes. In the valleys, which are fertile and
finely cultivated, there is at present a full bloom of spring. The hills
to a certain height are covered with firs and larch trees, the tops are
all shining with snow. You may see a tree white with blossom, and, fifty
fathom farther up, the ground white with snow. These hills, as you may
imagine, give a great command of water to the valleys, which the
industrious inhabitants distribute into every field, and render the
whole very fertile. There are many iron mines in the country, and the
valleys are upon that account extremely populous. But as much as the
country is agreeable in its wildness, as much are the inhabitants
savage, and deformed, and monstrous in their appearance. Very many of
them have ugly swelled throats; idiots and deaf people swarm in every
village; and the general aspect of the people is the most shocking I
ever saw. One would think, that as this was the great road, through
which all the barbarous nations made their irruptions into the Roman
empire, they always left here the refuse of their armies before they
entered into the enemy's country, and that from thence the present
inhabitants are descended. Their dress is scarce European, as their
figure is scarce human.
"There happened, however, a thing to-day, which surprised us all. The
empress-queen, regarding this country as a little barbarous, has sent
some missionaries of Jesuits to instruct them. They had sermons to-day
in the street, under our windows, attended with psalms; and believe me,
nothing could be more harmonious, better tuned, or more agreeable than
the voices of these savages; and the chorus of a French opera does not
sing in better time. You may infer from thence, if you please, that
Orpheus did not civilize the savage nations by his music. I know not
what progress the Jesuits have made by their eloquence; but it appears
to me that religion is not the point in which the Styrians are
defective, at least if we may judge by the number of their churches,
crucifixes, &c. We shall be detained here some days by Sir Harry
Erskine's illness, who is seized with an ague."
"_Clagenfurt in Carinthia, May 4._
"This is a mighty pretty little town, near the Drave. It is the capital
of the province, and stands in a tolerable large plain, surrounded with
very high hills; and on the other side the Drave we see the savage
Mountains of Carniola. You know the Alps join with the Pyrenees, these
with the Alps,[264:1] and run all along the north of Turkey in Europe to
the Black Sea, and form the longest chain of mountains in the universe.
"The figure of the Carinthians is not much better than that of the
Styrians."
"_Trent, 8th of May._
"We are still amongst mountains, and follow the tract of rivers in order
to find our way. But the aspect of the people is wonderfully changed on
entering the Tyrol. The inhabitants are there as remarkably beautiful as
the Styrians are ugly. An air of humanity, and spirit, and health, and
plenty, is seen in every face. Yet their country is wilder than Styria,
the hills higher, and the valleys narrower and more barren. They are
both Germans, subject to the house of Austria; so that it would puzzle a
naturalist or politician to find the reason of so great and remarkable a
difference. We traced up the Drave to its source: (that river, you know,
falls into the Danube, and into the Black Sea.) It ended in a small
rivulet, and that in a ditch, and then in a little bog. On the top of
the hill (though there was there a well cultivated plain) there was no
more appearance of spring than at Christmas. In about half a mile after
we had seen the Drave extinguish, we observed a little stripe of water
to move. This was the beginning of the Adige, and the rivers that run
into the Adriatic. We were now turning toward the south part of the
hill, and descended with great rapidity. Our little brook in three or
four miles became a considerable river, and every hour's travelling
showed us a new aspect of spring; so that in one day we passed through
all the gradations of that beautiful season, as we descended lower into
the valleys, from its first faint dawn till its full bloom and glory. We
are here in Italy; at least the common language of the people is
Italian. This town is not remarkable neither for size nor beauty. 'Tis
only famous for that wise assembly of philosophers and divines, who
established such rational tenets for the belief of mankind."
"_Mantua, 11th of May._
"We are now in classic ground; and I have kissed the earth that produced
Virgil, and have admired those fertile plains that he has so finely
celebrated.
Perdidit aut quales felices Mantua campos.[265:1]
"You are tired, and so am I, with the descriptions of countries; and
therefore shall only say, that nothing can be more singularly beautiful
than the plains of Lombardy, nor more beggarly and miserable than this
town."
"_Cremona, 12th of May._
"Alas, poor Italy!
Impius haec tam culta novalia miles habebit;
Barbarus has segetes?
The poor inhabitant
Starves, in the midst of Nature's plenty curst;
And in the loaded vineyard dies for thirst.
"The taxes are here exorbitant beyond all bounds. We lie to-morrow at
Milan."
"_Turin, June 16th, 1748._
"I wrote you about three weeks ago. This is brought into England by Mr.
Bathurst, a nephew of Lord Bathurst, who intended to serve a campaign in
our family. We know nothing as yet of the time of our return. But I
believe we shall make the tour of Italy and France before we come home.
'Tis thought the general will be sent as public minister to settle Don
Philip; so that we shall have seen a great variety of Dutch, German,
Italian, Spanish, and French courts in this jaunt.
Qui mores hominum multorum vidit, et urbes.
"I say nothing of Milan, or Turin, or Piedmont: because I shall have
time enough to entertain you with accounts of all these. Though you may
be little diverted with this long epistle, you ought at least to thank
me for the pains I have taken in composing it. I have not yet got my
baggage."
Far different was the pomp and circumstance in which the writer of this
narrative performed his journey, from the condition in which Goldsmith,
four years afterwards, pursued nearly the same route to--
----where the rude Carinthian boor
Against the houseless stranger shuts the door.
And Hume's motions seem to have partaken of the pomp and regularity of
his official station; for, even in these familiar letters to his
brother, he is all along the secretary of legation; or when he descends
from that height, it is but to mount the chair of the scholar and
philosopher. There are no escapades. We never hear that he has taken it
in his head to diverge from the regular route to see an old castle or a
waterfall. Yet he went with an eye for scenery. The Alpine passes
excited his admiration, and his description of the banks of the Rhine
will be recognised at this day as very accurate--with one material
exception. He says nothing of the feudal fortresses perched like the
nests of birds of prey, to which their moral resemblance was at least as
close as their physical; and thus one of the greatest historians of his
age, passes through a country without appearing to have noticed in their
true character, this series of prominent marks of a remarkable chapter
in the history of Europe. He speaks of them simply as "palaces"--a word
not designative of the character of the buildings, or in any way
evincing that their historical position had occurred to his mind. But it
must be admitted, that later tourists on the Rhine have amply made up
for his silence on these matters.
He does not condescend to mention any one of the fine specimens of
Gothic architecture which he must have seen--not even that vast and
beautiful fragment the cathedral of Cologne. One wonders whether or not
he was at the trouble of inquiring, what was that huge mass which he
must have seen towering over the city; and if, straying within its
gates, and looking on Albert Durer's painted windows, he had curiosity
enough to inspect the reliquary of the tomb of the three kings,
containing gems so ancient, that they are conjectured to be older than
Christianity, and to have been the ornaments of some Pagan shrine,
transferred to and historically associated with the pure creed which
displaced the barbarous rites of Paganism. This might have at least
formed a curious topic for his Natural History of Religion. But on this
as on many other subjects, he would sympathize with La Bruyere when he
speaks of "L'ordre Gothique, que la barbarie avoit introduit pour les
palais et pour les temples;" and his thorough neglect of both the
baronial and ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages, is
characteristic of a mind which could find nothing worthy of admiration,
in the time which elapsed between the extinction of ancient classical
literature, and the rise of the arts and sciences in modern Europe.
But upon scarcely any subject does Hume converse as a brother travelling
into foreign lands might be supposed to address a brother residing at
home, and cultivating his ancestral acres. We should expect to find him
observing that this river is like the Tweed, or unlike it--larger or
smaller; or comparing some range of hills with the Cheviots: but he is
general and undomestic in all his remarks, save the one observation that
the Rhine is as broad as from his brother's house to the opposite side
of the river.
Until he comes to the land of Virgil, where he shows real enthusiasm,
the chief object of his interest and observation appears to have been
the warlike operations in the midst of which he found himself. The
mission must have been attended with the ordinary dangers of a military
enterprise. It was undertaken at a time when all Europe was at war, and
though decisive battles were not taking place, petty conflicts and
surprises were of perpetual occurrence until the treaty of
Aix-la-Chapelle, a few months afterwards, restored repose to the
exhausted nations. Yet we find no symptoms of anxiety in the mind of the
philosophical actor of the military character. His tone is generally
that of a private traveller in a peaceful country, rather than that of a
member of an expedition armed for defence, and likely to be called on to
defend itself. When he mentions warlike operations, he adopts the tone
of a historical critic, and never that of a person who may find his
personal safety or comfort compromised by them.
Though he seems to have set out with the too general notion that
military affairs are the main object of attention to the man who is
desirous of distinction in historical literature, we find already
dawning on him the historian's nobler duty as a delineator of the state
of society, and an inquirer into the causes of the happiness or misery
of the people. And his observations are made with a wide and generous
benevolence, strikingly at contrast with those prevailing doctrines of
his day, which sought, in the success and happiness of one country, the
elements of the misery of another, and made the good fortune of our
neighbours a source of lamentation, as indicating calamity to ourselves.
His unaffected declaration of pleasure, in finding the Germans so happy
and comfortable a people, marks a heart full of genuine kindness and
benevolence, and will more than atone for the want of a disposition to
range through alpine scenery, or a taste to appreciate the beauties of
Gothic architecture.
It will be seen that Hume had intended to continue his journal, but no
farther trace of it has been found. The results of the mission have not
been generally noticed by historians. Its objects were of a subordinate
nature, and the occasion for attending to them was obviated by the
completion of the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle on 7th October.
Meanwhile, of Hume's residence in Turin, we have some notices by an able
observer, Lord Charlemont, the celebrated Irish political leader, who,
then in his twentieth year, was following the practice of the higher
aristocracy of his age, and endeavouring to enlarge his mind by foreign
travel. In the following probably exaggerated description it will be
seen that he was far mistaken in his estimate of Hume's age.
"With this extraordinary man I was intimately acquainted. He had kindly
distinguished me from among a number of young men, who were then at the
academy, and appeared so warmly attached to me, that it was apparent he
not only intended to honour me with his friendship, but to bestow on me
what was, in his opinion, the first of all favours and benefits, by
making me his convert and disciple.
"Nature, I believe, never formed any man more unlike his real character
than David Hume. The powers of physiognomy were baffled by his
countenance; neither could the most skilful in that science, pretend to
discover the smallest trace of the faculties of his mind, in the
unmeaning features of his visage. His face was broad and fat, his mouth
wide, and without any other expression than that of imbecility. His eyes
vacant and spiritless, and the corpulence of his whole person, was far
better fitted to communicate the idea of a turtle-eating alderman, than
of a refined philosopher. His speech in English was rendered ridiculous
by the broadest Scotch accent, and his French was, if possible, still
more laughable; so that wisdom most certainly never disguised herself
before in so uncouth a garb. Though now near fifty years old, he was
healthy and strong; but his health and strength, far from being
advantageous to his figure, instead of manly comeliness, had only the
appearance of rusticity. His wearing an uniform added greatly to his
natural awkwardness, for he wore it like a grocer of the trained bands.
Sinclair was a lieutenant-general, and was sent to the courts of Vienna
and Turin, as a military envoy, to see that their quota of troops was
furnished by the Austrians and Piedmontese. It was therefore thought
necessary that his secretary should appear to be an officer, and Hume
was accordingly disguised in scarlet."[271:1]
FOOTNOTES:
[225:1] MS. R.S.E.
[226:1] Obliterated.
[227:1] Letter to Mr. Morritt, dated Abbotsford, 2d October, 1815.
Lockhart's Life. The letter continues: "Would it not be a good quiz to
advertise _The Poetical Works of David Hume_, with notes, critical,
historical, and so forth, with a historical inquiry into the use of eggs
for breakfast; a physical discussion on the causes of their being
addled; a history of the English Church music, and of the choir of
Carlisle in particular; a full account of the affair of 1745, with the
trials, last speeches, and so forth, of the poor _plaids_ who were
strapped up at Carlisle; and lastly, a full and particular description
of Corby, with the genealogy of every family who ever possessed it? I
think, even without more than the usual waste of margin, the poems of
David would make a decent twelve shilling touch."
[227:2] For instance, there is preserved in his handwriting a very neat
transcript of the sweet and sad "Ode to Indifference," by Mrs. Greville,
copied, probably at a time when something in its tone of plaintive
imagination was attuned to his own feelings, and called up in him a
response to the complaint.
Nor ease nor peace that heart can know,
That, like the needle true,
Turns at the touch of joy or wo,
But turning trembles too.
And a desire to join in that prayer that the senses may be steeped in
indifference, in which the poet says,
The tears which pity taught to flow,
My eyes shall then disown,
The heart, that throbb'd at others' wo,
Shall then scarce feel its own.
The wounds that now each moment bleed,
Each moment then shall close,
And tranquil days shall still succeed,
To nights of soft repose.
Oh fairy elf, but grant me this--
This one kind comfort send;
And so may never-fading bliss
Thy flowery paths attend.
So may the glow-worm's glimmering light
Thy fairy footsteps lead
To some new region of delight,
Unknown to mortal tread.
And be thy acorn goblet fill'd
With heaven's ambrosial dew;
Sweetest, freshest flowers distill'd,
That shed fresh sweets for you.
And what of life remains for me,
I'll pass in sober ease--
Half-pleased, contented will I be,
Content--but half to please.
[228:1] MSS. R.S.E. The third piece _appears_ to be in Hume's hand; but
it is written with so much schoolboy stiffness, that one cannot feel
sure of its being so: perhaps it may be a production of very early life.
[232:1] See p. 144.
[233:1] MS. R.S.E. Probably James Crawford of Auchinames.
[234:1] Macgibbon was the name of a dissipated musical composer.
[235:1] Probably Philip Mercier, portrait painter, who died 1760.
[238:1] The marriage took place accordingly on the day following the
date of the letter, viz. 30th January. She was the second wife of Lord
Marchmont; his first countess, whose name was Western, having died on
9th May of the previous year.
[238:2] Memorials of the Right Hon. James Oswald, p. 59.
[239:1] Tytler's Life of Kames, i. 128.
[240:1] MS. R.S.E.
[242:1] The Duke of Cumberland.
[242:2] The revolution by which the Stadtholdership was re-established
in the Prince of Orange, had taken place during the previous year.
[246:1] The French, under Lowendahl, had taken Bergen by storm on the
5th September, 1747.
[252:1] This celebrated battle took place nearly five years before
Hume's visit to the field. It was fought on 26th June, 1743.
[254:1] The "we," must now be held no more to apply to our army, as it
has heretofore done, in reference to the battle, but to General St.
Clair's party.
[255:1] The Pegnitz.
[257:1] Sir Thomas Robinson, whose name has dropped out of recollection
in the ordinary biographical dictionaries, but is still familiar to the
readers of the history of the period, was for some time ambassador at
Vienna, and was plenipotentiary from Britain at the treaty of Aix La
Chapelle in 1748. In 1754 he became secretary of state for a few months.
In 1761 he was raised to the peerage by the title of Baron Grantham.
"Sir Thomas," says Walpole, "had been bred in German courts, and was
rather restored than naturalized to the genius of that country; he had
German honour, loved German politics, and could explain himself as
little as if he spoke only German."--Memoires of George III. 337.
According to the same authority, he was subjected, on account of his
name, to an identification with Robinson Crusoe, something like that
with which Madame Talleyrand honoured Denon, owing to the accident of
his being a great traveller whose name ended in "on."
Sir T. Robinson was a tall uncouth man, and his stature was often
rendered still more remarkable by his hunting dress, a postilion's cap,
a tight green jacket, and buckskin breeches. He was liable to sudden
whims; and once set off on a sudden, in his hunting suit, to visit his
sister, who was married and settled at Paris. He arrived while there was
a large company at dinner. The servant announced Mr. Robinson, and he
came in, to the great amazement of the guests. Among others a French
abbé thrice lifted his fork to his mouth, and thrice laid it down, with
an eager stare of surprise. Unable to restrain his curiosity any longer,
he burst out with, "Excuse me, sir; are you the famous Robinson Crusoe
so remarkable in history."--Walpoliana.
[260:1] An Irish baronet, grandson of Sir James Caldwell who was created
a baronet in 1683, and distinguished himself in the service of William
III. during the Irish revolutionary wars. The person commemorated in so
flattering a manner by Hume, rose to considerable rank in the service of
the empress, and was enabled to introduce to that service a brother, who
obtained in it far more distinction, and who, in connexion with the
relationship mentioned above, was called Hume Caldwell. He seems to have
been strongly endowed with the mercurial disposition of his countrymen.
On his first introduction to the service, he "took expensive lodgings,
kept a chariot, a running footman, and a hussar, and was admitted into
the highest circles;" the natural result of which was, that, on
preparing to join his regiment, when he paid his debts, he found that he
had just two gold ducats left; whereupon, as his biographer pathetically
narrates, "the companion of princes, the friend of Count Conigsegg, the
possessor of a splendid hotel and a gilt chariot, who had kept a hussar
and an opera girl, figured at court, and had an audience of the empress,
and was possessed of a letter of credit for £1000, set out from Vienna
alone, on foot, in a mean habit, and with an empty pocket, for that army
in which he was to rise by his merit to a distinguished command." His
subsequent history is a little romance. Mr. Hume Caldwell, being lost
sight of by the great world, is searched for hither and thither, and at
length an Irish private soldier being questioned about the matter, turns
out to be Caldwell himself, who is immediately restored to his proper
station.--Ryan's Worthies of Ireland.
[264:1] Sic in MS. Perhaps he meant to allude to the junction with the
Carpathians through the Bohemian ranges.
[265:1] Et qualem infelix amisit Mantua campum. Georg. ii. 198?
[271:1] Memoirs of the Political and Private Life of James Caulfield,
Earl of Charlemont, by Francis Hardy, p. 8.