_THE PREPARATION OF ORIGINALS FOR REPRODUCTION BY HALF-TONE PROCESS._
I. PHOTOGRAMS.
It will be understood from the foregoing chapter that in every case
where the original to be reproduced is of such a nature that before a
print in ink can be made the image must be broken up, the reproduction
will have to be effected by means of the half-tone process.
Of the various kinds of originals thus utilised, probably the two most
common are photograms and wash-drawings.
The rapidity, comparative ease, and absence of the draughtsman's skill,
with which photograms can now be made, has placed a wonderful power in
the hands of author or illustrator. But a short series of photograms of
some subject of interest with a very little descriptive letterpress will
often form an acceptable contribution to magazine or newspaper, and yet
a thoughtful consideration of such illustrations can hardly fail to
impress any one with the drawbacks and defects of the method.
Such illustrations too often strike us as dull, misty, grey, and lacking
brilliancy, when compared with black and white reproductions of another
kind.
This dulness is attributable to a great extent to the gauze-like screen
through which the copy is made, as described in our last chapter. The
bright lights are grained over with fine dots reducing white to grey,
and the soft finely graduated half-tones are often lost altogether.
In order to counteract these defects, the process worker will often take
upon himself to "doctor" the negative made from the original before
proceeding to make the block, a practice to be condemned because such an
operator is rarely possessed of artistic judgment, and his "touching up"
may often produce a result unexpected and unacceptable to the artist.
A similar "touching up" may also be effected on the block itself, as
previously suggested, which is only preferable because the artist may
more directly control the engraver's tool by giving definite
instructions.
As far as possible, however, the block should not be meddled with by any
one, if the originals have been produced in such a manner as to ensure
the best possible effect by the mere mechanical process.
In making photograms especially for reproduction a clear, bright
negative, with good strong contrasts, should be aimed at. Probably the
kind of negatives which it was customary to strive after in the older
days of wet-plate photography would be the best; but, as wet-plate
photography is hardly practicable for the illustrator of to-day, similar
results with dry-plates should be sought.
Unhappily, the extreme softness and exquisite gradations of some of the
most modern and artistic work of photographers is thrown away in the
process of reproduction, and little more than a flat, meaningless smudge
is the best the process block can make of it. For this reason our
photograms for illustration should somewhat exaggerate the effect we
wish to reproduce: a matter which has led to the working on photograms
with the brush to heighten the effect, of which I shall have more to say
anon.
Given the proper kind of negative the next care will be to make such a
photographic print as shall not detract from the qualities secured in
the negative, and shall in every possible way assist the "process."
Many of the best and most pleasing photograms of our day are printed
upon coarse-grained, rough-surfaced paper, presenting a difficulty to
the reproductive process almost certain to prove disastrous to the
result; for if, whilst being copied, the original is not very skilfully
lighted, the inequalities of the surface reproduce as little lights and
shadows in a very unpleasing manner, and the texture of even a
comparatively smooth paper seems remarkably exaggerated.
Almost as undesirable will be the very highly enamelled surfaces of some
photographic papers, the surface gloss producing reflections which
interfere with the copying. The best for general use will be the
smoothest platinotype paper, or a not too highly-glazed _white_
albumenised paper, either of which are obtainable at most chemists and
all photographic dealers. The print should be of a medium depth, not so
dark as to give heavy solid shadows, nor so light as to omit all detail
from the lightest portions. The various manipulations necessary for
"toning" and "fixing" the print should be carried out carefully,
especially avoiding staining or discoloration of the white paper. The
print thus made, when mounted on card, is as far as an ordinary
photogram can go for this purpose.
It now remains to be seen, bearing in mind what we know of the method by
which it is to be reproduced, what may be done to improve it, never
forgetting, however, that the chief value of a photogram for
illustrative purposes is its unimpeachable fidelity to truth. Additional
hand-work should not violate this truthfulness by the introduction of
any fresh matter, or the painting out of any characteristic detail,
unless, of course, the illustration is merely for pictorial or
decorative purposes. The inscription "From a photogram" usually
possesses a charm over the popular mind, inspiring confidence and
carrying conviction, and if the hand-work be discreetly introduced, only
to improve the effect and counteract the inherent defects of the final
process, the legend may be honestly used.
In the first place, a photogram in which there are some large very dark
objects, which by reason of their dark colour are disagreeably heavy,
or obtrusive masses of deep shadow, may be made to reproduce better if a
thin transparent wash of blue be applied to such portions. The great
photogenic power of blue is, of course, the reason of this, but until
some experience be gained as to the proper amount of blue required, I
should recommend that a duplicate untouched photogram be sent in as
well, with a few words of explanation and instruction to the process
man. If the photogram be upon a glossy surface paper, a few drops of ox
gall, procurable in bottles from the artists' colourman, will make the
water-colour wash flow readily over the slimy surface.
For working with a brush upon the photogram, the materials are simple
and few. Our purpose is to strengthen the lights and deepen the darks,
for which purpose Chinese white and two or three water-colours
respectively will be used.
The surface and general character of a platinotype or matt paper print
will be pleasantest to work on; with an albumenised paper, ox gall will
again be essential.
If a liberal amount of hand-work is intended, the print had better be a
light one, and it can then be built up to any degree.
Chinese white, when applied thinly, has a bluish hue, and will
consequently reproduce somewhat lighter than it appears. Therefore to
produce a grey, it will sometimes be better, instead of using thin
Chinese white, to make an admixture of Chinese white and Indian ink, or
some suitable pigment, and apply it as a grey where grey is wanted. Such
portions of the Chinese white which, when dry, appear harsh, may be
softened with a clean almost dry sable brush; or the soft part of the
finger, with little more than its natural moisture, carefully rubbed
over the harsh parts may have the desired effect. By such and any tricks
which may suggest themselves it is advisable to blend the hand-work with
the actual photographic image.
In applying pigment to the dark parts, to make them darker or sharper,
it will be desirable to match the colour of the photographic print as
nearly as possible. With platinotypes this may easily be done with
Indian ink, with a little blue added according to whether the print is a
warm or cold black. The precise colour of a silver print, whether on
matt or albumenised paper, is not so easy to match, but may be best
accomplished with sepia and cobalt, with a trace of crimson lake; one or
two other colours, such as burnt umber, vandyke brown, sienna, &c.,
being kept in reserve for emergencies. Fine-pointed small sable-hair
brushes will be found the best for all purposes.
[Illustration: "STOPPED OUT" PHOTOGRAM.
(_Original 6 x 4._)]
In the process of reproduction the original may be enlarged upon or
reduced. The former is not often attended with happy results, especially
if there is much hand-work, but reduction may to some extent be relied
on to clear away any trifling blemishes, should such exist. I should,
however, lay emphasis upon making the original as perfect as possible;
the "improving" effect of the process is an altogether too uncertain and
unknown factor to be trusted.
Having thus given particulars as to the preparation of photograms for
reproduction, we may now suggest some various applications thereof.
There is a great charm about illustrations which possess a spontaneous
and a suggestive character, and in this direction photograms are too
often painfully deficient. On rare occasions only, and in the hands of a
few artistic workers alone, does photography rise above a certain
mechanical and laboured impression, and the rare exceptions are of a
character ill-suited for "half-tone" reproduction.
For complete whole-page illustrations a photogram has few drawbacks; but
when inserted with letterpress, and required for chapter headings and
odd corners, the fact that the picture occupies the whole space enclosed
within the boundary lines, and includes a great deal of detail which is
not required, makes them less attractive. Their form and style is dull
and monotonous.
The accompanying illustration will suggest the manner in which I would
recommend photograms to be sometimes employed--especially when the
illustrator does not possess the requisite skill to produce the same
thing with his brush.
The "Little Gate-keepers" may be taken as an example of what I will call
a "stopped-out" photogram; practically no hand-work has been employed
upon it beyond the "stopping out" of the original negative. The figures
of the children holding open the gate appear in the foreground of a
large negative, a landscape near Dunster Castle; the background is
composed of trees of an unpleasing form, and, beyond the topographical
interest, the bulk of the subject has little to recommend it.
The method of stopping-out is as follows:--The negative should be placed
in such a position as to secure a strong transmitted light; it may be
fastened to the window, so as to be able to look through it towards the
sky, or may be placed in a retouching desk, as used by photographers, if
very large plates. In my own practice I use an ordinary easel, sitting
to it with my face to the window. On the film side of the negative
carefully draw round the more critical outlines, such as figures, faces,
trees, &c., with a very fine-pointed brush, or a pen, dipped in opaque
black varnish, gradually broadening the line to about a quarter of an
inch. Now on the reverse, or glass side of the negative, paint out with
black varnish all the rest as required; the effect of painting-out on
the reverse side being to give a slightly softer or vignetted effect as
is seen in the ground and gate-posts of the accompanying illustration.
Where it is desired to carry the vignetted effect to a greater length,
some oil colour, red by preference (which may be thinned with copal
varnish), may be used, and when partially dry the finger may be used as
a dabber to remove just sufficient to admit of the plate printing very
faintly.
In such a practice as this a little resourcefulness and ingenuity will
stand the operator in good stead, and many modifications and "dodges"
will occur as the work proceeds. Thus, for instance, if the whole of the
painting out be done on the film side, the bare outline of the
background and surroundings may be scratched in with a needle so as to
give a sketchy appearance in the print; such sketched outline may adhere
to the original form or may be entirely invented. Some taste must be
exercised to prevent the elaborate photographic image from appearing
incongruous with the sketched outline.
In the accompanying "Boy gathering Wortleberries," two children have
been taken out of an unfortunately grouped trio, a badly developed
transparent sky has been converted into a hill in the background, and
some little details of landscape have been painted on to the print.
A good deal has been said of the modern illustrator shirking or ignoring
backgrounds in his illustrations, yet I am inclined to think that in
such cases as these, and very many others, the background is best only
suggested or omitted altogether. In an illustration which purposes to
tell us some little fact, or is designed to beautify and enliven a page,
we do not want a whole chapter from nature's book, but just such
selected passages which the judgment of the artist illustrator shall
select.
In utilising photograms in this or any similar manner, it is difficult
to place such methods in the hands of those unlearned in art matters
without a word of caution and advice on the subject of composition and
arrangement; but as it is not within the province of the present work to
instruct my readers in art principles, such remarks must be of the
briefest.
It will be at once seen that whatever be the arrangement or
"composition" of nature (as photographed), as soon as the illustrator
commences stopping-out certain portions, the form or composition is at
once entirely under his control, and the pleasing effect of the finished
result will very greatly depend upon a nice arrangement of lines. Thus
in my "Little Gate-keepers" the upper outline of the gate forms a
striking line running obliquely upward from left to right, and so, to
counteract this, I have let the ground take an oblique form in an
opposite direction. To have done otherwise and repeated the first-named
line would have given the whole thing a one-sided, running-upwards,
effect. As a general rule (subject, as all such rules must be, to
numerous exceptions), strong oblique lines should converge towards an
imaginary centre some distance outside the picture, with some lesser
opposing lines to form contrast and promote a balance. Neither should
the sketched-in or created background repeat the form of the chief
object. Thus in the "Boy gathering Wortleberries" the figure forms a
vertical line; there are no strong oblique lines, and therefore the
middle distance takes the form of a horizontal line. The summit of the
hill, had it come directly over the boy's head, would have too evidently
repeated his outline, and is therefore placed a little to the right.
These are matters of taste, rather than the obedience to prescribed
rules, but the reader who desires guidance can hardly do better than
read Burnett's "Essays on Art." There are several handbooks to artistic
photography which treat of this subject, such as "Pictorial Effect in
Photography" and "Picture-making by Photography," both by H.P. Robinson;
also "Studies in Photography," by J. Andrews; and many books for the art
student.
[Illustration: WORKED-UP PHOTOGRAM.
(_Original 6 x 4._)]
But, as already said, these are matters of individual taste and artistic
instinct, and although I hope by this little book to make the path easy
for those who have no especial artistic aptitude, yet, in such things as
this, the possessor of such instinctive sense of form is at an
advantage, lacking which the attentive study of other people's work and
some amount of imitation seems to be the only possible substitute. Much
knowledge may be gained from analysing, to this end, illustrations which
greet the eye on nearly every page of current literature. While many
methods of illustration _may_ be learned and practised in a mechanical
manner, the course is beset with difficulties and pitfalls, and, to the
artistically unlearned, the alternative dangers of gross error and sheer
imitation are ever present. Mr. Henry Blackburn has justly said, "The
illustrator's best protection against this tendency, his whole armour
and coat of mail, is to be an artist first and an illustrator
afterwards." Yet men have won battles without armour, and when the
stripling slew the giant it was the latter who wore the coat of mail.
Zeal and patient application will do much.
In speaking of the application of the photogram to illustrative and
decorative purposes, we can hardly leave the subject without making
reference to the use to which they may be put for decorative initials,
chapter headings, and the like. Some very excellent examples of initials
were given in Mr. Gleeson White's articles on "Photographing the Nude,"
published in _The Photogram_, one of which we reproduce (see p. 48). The
subject must be selected so as to harmonise in character and form with
the letter required, and such letter may then be pasted, or painted, on
the original negative, in which case it will print white; or it may be
worked on the photogram with brush and pigment. In only a few cases
would the initial, if represented in deep black, have any other than an
overpowering and heavy effect. The "tail-piece" on page 56 is a further
example which needs little explanation. Photograms cut to certain form,
and arranged suitably, may make a great variety of chapter headings or
tail-pieces.
In the example here given, the background or distance was painted out on
the negative, and ink lines were drawn around the print before
reproduction.
In order to ensure a symmetrical and sharp outline, a paper mask may be
attached to the negative, and a scroll design painted on the negative,
details being drawn in ink on the resulting print.
[Illustration: THE BATTLE OF ALEXANDRIA; 42ND HIGHLANDERS GUARDING
FRENCH PRISONERS.
_By permission of the proprietors of "The Illustrated London News."
Engraved from a wash drawing in black and white by The Meisenbach Co.,
Ltd., West Norwood._]
[Illustration]