SECTION 1. _Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of

HISTORIC HIGHWAYS OF AMERICA

VOLUME 10

[Illustration: BRIDGE AT "BIG CROSSINGS"]

HISTORIC HIGHWAYS OF AMERICA

VOLUME 10

The Cumberland Road

BY

ARCHER BUTLER HULBERT

_With Maps and Illustrations_

[Illustration]

THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY

CLEVELAND, OHIO

1904

COPYRIGHT, 1904

BY

THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTENTS

PAGE

PREFACE 11

I. OUR FIRST NATIONAL ROAD 15

II. BUILDING THE ROAD IN THE WEST 71

III. OPERATION AND CONTROL 91

IV. STAGECOACHES AND FREIGHTERS 119

V. MAILS AND MAIL LINES 142

VI. TAVERNS AND TAVERN LIFE 152

VII. CONCLUSION 174

APPENDIXES 189

ILLUSTRATIONS

I. BRIDGE AT "BIG CROSSINGS" _Frontispiece_

II. MAP OF CUMBERLAND ROAD IN PENNSYLVANIA AND MARYLAND 55

III. CHESTNUT RIDGE, PENNSYLVANIA 65

IV. MAP OF CUMBERLAND ROAD IN THE WEST 79

V. A CULVERT ON THE CUMBERLAND ROAD IN OHIO 177

PREFACE

For material used in this volume the author is largely in the debt of

the librarians of the State Libraries of Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio,

Indiana, and Illinois. From the Honorable C. B. Galbreath, of the Ohio

State Library, he has received much assistance covering an extended

period. To the late Thomas B. Searight's valuable collection of

biographical and colloquial sketches, _The Old Pike_, the author wishes

to express his great indebtedness. As Mr. Searight gave special

attention to the road in Pennsylvania, the present monograph deals at

large with the story of the road west of the Ohio River, especially in

the state of Ohio.

The Cumberland Road was best known in some parts as the "United States"

or "National" Road. Its legal name has been selected as the most

appropriate for the present monograph which is revised from a study of

the subject _The Old National Road_ formerly published by the Ohio State

Archæological and Historical Society.

A. B. H.

MARIETTA, OHIO, May 15, 1903.

The Cumberland Road

_It is a monument of a past age; but like all other monuments, it is

interesting as well as venerable. It carried thousands of population

and millions of wealth into the West; and more than any other

material structure in the land, served to harmonize and strengthen,

if not to save, the Union._--VEECH.

CHAPTER I

OUR FIRST NATIONAL ROAD

_The middle ages had their wars and agonies, but also their intense

delights. Their gold was dashed with blood, but ours is sprinkled

with dust. Their life was intermingled with white and purple; ours

is one seamless stuff of brown._--RUSKIN.

A person cannot live in the American Central West and be acquainted with

the generation which greets the new century with feeble hand and dimmed

eye, without realizing that there has been a time which, compared with

today, seems as the Middle Ages did to the England for which Ruskin

wrote--when "life was intermingled with white and purple."

This western boy, born to a feeble republic-mother, with exceeding

suffering in those days which "tried men's souls," grew up as all boys

grow up. For a long and doubtful period the young West grew slowly and

changed appearance gradually. Then, suddenly, it started from its

slumbering, and, in two decades, could hardly have been recognized as

the infant which, in 1787, looked forward to a precarious and doubtful

future. The boy has grown into the man in the century, but the changes

of the last half century are not, perhaps, so marked as those of the

first, when a wilderness was suddenly transformed into a number of

imperial commonwealths.

When this West was in its teens and began suddenly outstripping itself,

to the marvel of the world, one of the momentous factors in its progress

was the building of a great national road, from the Potomac River to the

Mississippi River, by the United States Government--a highway seven

hundred miles in length, at a cost of seven millions of treasure. This

ribbon of road, winding its way through Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio,

Indiana, and Illinois, toward the Mississippi, was one of the most

important steps in that movement of national expansion which followed

the conquest of the West. It is probably impossible for us to realize

fully what it meant to this West when that vanguard of surveyors came

down the western slopes of the Alleghenies, hewing a thoroughfare which

should, in one generation, bind distant and half-acquainted states

together in bonds of common interest, sympathy, and ambition. Until that

day, travelers spoke of "going into" and "coming out of" the West as

though it were a Mammoth Cave. Such were the herculean difficulties of

travel that it was commonly said, despite the dangers of life in the

unconquered land, if pioneers could live to get into the West, nothing

could, thereafter, daunt them. The growth and prosperity of the West was

impossible, until the dawning of such convictions as those which made

the Cumberland Road a reality.

The history of this famed road is but a continuation of the story of the

Washington and Braddock roads, through Great Meadows from the Potomac to

the Ohio. As outlined in Volumes III and IV of this series, this

national highway was the realization of the youth Washington's early

dream--a dream that was, throughout his life, a dominant force.

But Braddock's Road was for three score years the only route westward

through southwestern Pennsylvania, and it grew worse and worse with

each year's travel. Indeed, the more northerly route, marked out in part

by General Forbes in 1758, was plainly the preferable road for travelers

to Pittsburg until the building of the Cumberland Road, 1811-1818.

The rapid peopling of the state of Ohio, and the promise of an equal

development in Indiana and Illinois caused the building of our first and

only great national road. Congress passed an act on the thirtieth of

April, 1802, enabling the people of Ohio to form a state government and

seek admission into the Union. Section seven contained the following

provision:

"That one-twentieth of the net proceeds of the lands lying within said

State sold by Congress shall be applied to the laying out and making

public roads leading from the navigable waters emptying into the

Atlantic, to the Ohio, to the said state, and through the same, such

roads to be laid out under the authority of Congress, with the consent

of the several states through which the roads shall pass."[1]

On the third of March, 1803 another act was passed which appropriated

three of the five per cent to laying out roads in the state of Ohio, the

remaining two per cent to be devoted to building a road from navigable

waters leading into the Atlantic Ocean, to the Ohio River contiguous to

the state of Ohio. A committee was appointed to review the matter and

the conclusion of their report to the Senate on the nineteenth of

December, 1805 was as follows:

"Therefore the committee have thought it expedient to recommend the

laying out and making a road from Cumberland, on the northerly bank of

the Potomac, and within the state of Maryland, to the Ohio river, at the

most convenient place on the easterly bank of said river, opposite to

Steubenville, and the mouth of Grave Creek, which empties into said

river, Ohio, a little below Wheeling in Virginia, This route will meet

and accommodate roads from Baltimore and the District of Columbia; it

will cross the Monongahela at or near Brownsville, sometimes called

Redstone, where the advantage of boating can be taken; and from the

point where it will probably intersect the river Ohio, there are now

roads, or they can easily be made over feasible and proper ground, to

and through the principal population of the state of Ohio."[2]

Immediately the following act of Congress was passed, authorizing the

laying out and making of the Cumberland Road:

AN ACT TO REGULATE THE LAYING OUT AND MAKING A ROAD FROM CUMBERLAND,

IN THE STATE OF MARYLAND, TO THE STATE OF OHIO

SECTION 1. _Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of

the United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the President

of the United States be, and he is hereby authorized to appoint, by and

with the advice and consent of the Senate, three discreet and

disinterested citizens of the United States, to lay out a road from

Cumberland, or a point on the northern bank of the river Potomac, in the

state of Maryland, between Cumberland and the place where the main road

leading from Gwynn's to Winchester, in Virginia, crosses the river, to

the state of Ohio; whose duty it shall be, as soon as may be, after

their appointment, to repair to Cumberland aforesaid, and view the

ground, from the points on the river Potomac hereinbefore designated to

the river Ohio; and to lay out in such direction as they shall judge,

under all circumstances the most proper, a road from thence to the river

Ohio, to strike the same at the most convenient place, between a point

on its eastern bank, opposite to the northern boundary of Steubenville,

in said state of Ohio, and the mouth of Grave Creek, which empties into

the said river a little below Wheeling, in Virginia.

SEC. 2. And be it further enacted, That the aforesaid road shall be laid

out four rods in width, and designated on each side by a plain and

distinguishable mark on a tree, or by the erection of a stake or

monument sufficiently conspicuous, in every quarter of a mile of the

distance at least, where the road pursues a straight course so far or

further, and on each side, at every point where an angle occurs in its

course.

SEC. 3. And be it further enacted, That the commissioners shall, as soon

as may be, after they have laid out said road, as aforesaid, present to

the President an accurate plan of the same, with its several courses and

distances, accompanied by a written report of their proceedings,

describing the marks and monuments by which the road is designated, and

the face of the country over which it passes, and pointing out the

particular parts which they shall judge require the most and immediate

attention and amelioration, and the probable expense of making the same

possible in the most difficult parts, and through the whole distance;

designating the state or states through which said road has been laid

out, and the length of the several parts which are laid out on new

ground, as well as the length of those parts laid out on the road now

traveled. Which report the President is hereby authorized to accept or

reject, in the whole or in part. If he accepts, he is hereby further

authorized and requested to pursue such measures, as in his opinion

shall be proper, to obtain consent for making the road, of the state or

states through which the same has been laid out. Which consent being

obtained, he is further authorized to take prompt and effectual

measures to cause said road to be made through the whole distance, or in

any part or parts of the same as he shall judge most conducive to the

public good, having reference to the sum appropriated for the purpose.

SEC. 4. And be it further enacted, That all parts of the road which the

President shall direct to be made, in case the trees are standing, shall

be cleared the whole width of four rods; and the road shall be raised in

the middle of the carriage-way with stone, earth, or gravel or sand, or

a combination of some or all of them, leaving or making, as the case may

be, a ditch or water course on each side and contiguous to said

carriage-way, and in no instance shall there be an elevation in said

road, when finished, greater than an angle of five degrees with the

horizon. But the manner of making said road, in every other particular,

is left to the direction of the President.

SEC. 5. And be it further enacted, That said commissioners shall each

receive four dollars per day, while employed as aforesaid, in full for

their compensation, including all expenses. And they are hereby

authorized to employ one surveyor, two chainmen and one marker, for

whose faithfulness and accuracy they, the said commissioners, shall be

responsible, to attend them in laying out said road, who shall receive

in full satisfaction for their wages, including all expenses, the

surveyor, three dollars per day, and each chainman and marker, one

dollar per day, while they shall be employed in said business, of which

fact a certificate signed by said commissioners shall be deemed

sufficient evidence.

SEC. 6. And be it further enacted, That the sum of thirty thousand

dollars be, and the same is hereby appropriated, to defray the expenses

of laying out and making said road. And the President is hereby

authorized to draw, from time to time, on the treasury for such parts,

or at any one time, for the whole of said sum, as he shall judge the

service requires. Which sum of thirty thousand dollars shall be paid,

first, out of the fund of two per cent reserved for laying out and

making roads to the state of Ohio, and by virtue of the seventh section

of an act passed on the thirtieth day of April, one thousand eight

hundred and two, entitled, "An act to enable the people of the eastern

division of the territory northwest of the river Ohio to form a

constitution and state government, and for the admission of such state

into the Union on an equal footing with the original states, and for

other purposes." Three per cent of the appropriation contained in said

seventh section being directed by a subsequent law to the laying out,

opening, and making roads within the said state of Ohio; and secondly,

out of any money in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, chargeable

upon, and reimbursable at the treasury by said fund of two per cent as

the same shall accrue.

SEC. 7. And be it further enacted, That the President be, and he is

hereby requested, to cause to be laid before Congress, as soon as

convenience will permit, after the commencement of each session, a

statement of the proceedings under this act, that Congress may be

enabled to adopt such further measures as may from time to time be

proper under existing circumstances.

Approved March 29, 1806.

TH. JEFFERSON.

President Jefferson appointed Thomas Moore of Maryland, Joseph Kerr of

Ohio, and Eli Williams of Maryland commissioners. Their first report was

presented December 30, 1806, as follows:

"The commissioners, acting by appointment under the law of Congress,

entitled, 'An act to regulate the laying out and making a road from

Cumberland in the State of Maryland, to the State of Ohio,' beg leave to

report to the President of the United States, and to premise that the

duties imposed by the law became a work of greater magnitude, and a task

much more arduous, than was conceived before entering upon it; from

which circumstance the commissioners did not allow themselves sufficient

time for the performance of it before the severity of the weather

obliged them to retire from it, which was the case in the first week of

the present month (December). That, not having fully accomplished their

work, they are unable fully to report a discharge of all the duties

enjoined by the law; but as the most material and principal part has

been performed, and as a communication of the progress already made may

be useful and proper, during the present session of Congress, and of the

Legislatures of those States through which the route passes, the

commissioners respectfully state that at a very early period it was

conceived that the maps of the country were not sufficiently accurate to

afford a minute knowledge of the true courses between the extreme points

on the rivers, by which the researches of the commissioners were to be

governed; a survey for that purpose became indispensable, and

considerations of public economy suggested the propriety of making this

survey precede the personal attendance of the commissioners.

"Josias Thompson, a surveyor of professional merit, was taken into

service and authorized to employ two chain carriers and a marker, as

well as one vaneman, and a packhorse-man and horse, on public account;

the latter being indispensable and really beneficial in accelerating the

work. The surveyor's instructions are contained in document No. 1,

accompanying this report.

"Calculating on a reasonable time for the performance of the

instructions to the surveyor, the commissioners, by correspondence,

fixed on the first day of September last, for their meeting at

Cumberland to proceed in the work; neither of them, however, reached

that place until the third of that month, on which day they all met.

"The surveyor having, under his instructions, laid down a plat of his

work, showing the meanders of the Potomac and Ohio rivers, within the

limits prescribed for the commissioners, as also the road between those

rivers, which is commonly traveled from Cumberland to Charleston, in

part called Braddock's road; and the same being produced to the

commissioners, whereby straight lines and their true courses were shown

between the extreme points on each river, and the boundaries which limit

the powers of the commissioners being thereby ascertained, serving as a

basis whereon to proceed in the examination of the grounds and face of

the country; the commissioners thus prepared commenced the business of

exploring; and in this it was considered that a faithful discharge of

the discretionary powers vested by the law made it necessary to view

the whole to be able to judge of a preference due to any part of the

grounds, which imposed a task of examining a space comprehending upwards

of two thousand square miles; a task rendered still more incumbent by

the solicitude and importunities of the inhabitants of every part of the

district, who severally conceived their grounds entitled to a

preference. It becoming necessary, in the interim, to run various lines

of experiment for ascertaining the geographical position of several

points entitled to attention, and the service suffering great delay for

want of another surveyor, it was thought consistent with the public

interest to employ, in that capacity, Arthur Rider, the vaneman, who had

been chosen with qualification to meet such an emergency; and whose

services as vaneman could then be dispensed with. He commenced, as

surveyor, on the 22nd day of September, and continued so at field work

until the first day of December, when he was retained as a necessary

assistant to the principal surveyor, in copying field notes and

hastening the draught of the work to be reported.

"The proceedings of the commissioners are especially detailed in their

general journal, compiled from the daily journal of each commissioner,

to which they beg leave to refer, under mark No. 2.

"After a careful and critical examination of all the grounds within the

limits prescribed, as well as the grounds and ways out from the Ohio

westwardly, at several points, and examining the shoal parts of the Ohio

river as detailed in the table of soundings, stated in their journal,

and after gaining all the information, geographical, general and

special, possible and necessary, toward a judicial discharge of the

duties assigned them, the commissioners repaired to Cumberland to

examine and compare their notes and journals, and determine upon the

direction and location of their route.

"In this consultation the governing objects were:

1. Shortness of distance between navigable points on the eastern and

western waters.

2. A point on the Monongahela best calculated to equalize the advantages

of this portage in the country within reach of it.

3. A point on the Ohio river most capable of combining certainty of

navigation with road accommodation; embracing, in this estimate, remote

points westwardly, as well as present and probable population on the

north and south.

4. Best mode of diffusing benefits with least distance of road.

"In contemplating these objects, due attention was paid as well to the

comparative merits of towns, establishments and settlements already

made, as to the capacity of the country with the present and probable

population.

"In the course of arrangement, and in its order, the first point located

for the route was determined and fixed at Cumberland, a decision founded

on propriety, and in some measure on necessity, from the circumstance of

a high and difficult mountain, called Nobley, laying and confining the

east margin of the Potomac, so as to render it impossible of access on

that side without immense expense, at any point between Cumberland and

where the road from Winchester to Gwynn's crosses, and even there the

Nobley mountain is crossed with much difficulty and hazard. And this

upper point was taxed with another formidable objection; it was found

that a high range of mountains, called Dan's, stretching across from

Gwynn's to the Potomac, above this point, precluded the opportunity of

extending a route from this point in a proper direction, and left no

alternative but passing by Gwynn's; the distance from Cumberland to

Gwynn's being upward of a mile less than from the upper point, which

lies ten miles by water above Cumberland, the commissioners were not

permitted to hesitate in preferring a point which shortens the portage,

as well as the Potomac navigation.

"The point of the Potomac being viewed as a great repository of produce,

which a good road will bring from the west of Laurel Hill, and the

advantages which Cumberland, as a town, has in that respect over an

unimproved place, are additional considerations operating forcibly in

favor of the place preferred.

"In extending the route from Cumberland, a triple range of mountains,

stretching across from Jening's run in measure with Gwynn's, left only

the alternative of laying the road up Will's creek for three miles,

nearly at right angles with the true course, and then by way of Jening's

run, or extending it over a break in the smallest mountain, on a better

course by Gwynn's, to the top of Savage mountain; the latter was

adopted, being the shortest, and will be less expensive in hill-side

digging over a sloped route than the former, requiring one bridge over

Will's creek and several over Jening's run, both very wide and

considerable streams in high water; and a more weighty reason for

preferring the route by Gwynn's is the great accommodation it will

afford travelers from Winchester by the upper point, who could not reach

the route by Jening's run short of the top of Savage, which would

withhold from them the benefit of an easy way up the mountain.

"It is, however, supposed that those who travel from Winchester by way

of the upper point to Gwynn's, are in that respect more the dupes of

common prejudice than judges of their own ease, as it is believed the

way will be as short, and on much better ground, to cross the Potomac

below the confluence of the north and south branches (thereby crossing

these two, as well as Patterson's creek, in one stream, equally fordable

in the same season), than to pass through Cumberland to Gwynn's. Of

these grounds, however, the commissioners do not speak from actual view,

but consider it a subject well worthy of future investigation. Having

gained the top of Alleghany mountain, or rather the top of that part

called Savage, by way of Gwynn's, the general route, as it respects the

most important points, was determined as follows, viz:

"From a stone at the corner of lot No. 1, in Cumberland, near the

confluence of Will's creek and the north branch of the Potomac river;

thence extending along the street westwardly, to cross the hill lying

between Cumberland and Gwynn's, at the gap where Braddock's road passes

it; thence near Gwynn's and Jesse Tomlinson's, to cross the big

Youghiogheny near the mouth of Roger's run, between the crossing of

Braddock's road and the confluence of the streams which form the Turkey

foot; thence to cross Laurel Hill near the forks of Dunbar's run, to the

west foot of that hill, at a point near where Braddock's old road

reached it, near Gist's old place, now Colonel Isaac Meason's, thence

through Brownsville and Bridgeport, to cross the Monongahela river below

Josias Crawfords' ferry; and thence on as straight a course as the

country will admit to the Ohio, at a point between the mouth of Wheeling

creek and the lower point of Wheeling island.

"In this direction of the route it will lay about twenty-four and a half

miles in Maryland, seventy-five miles and a half in Pennsylvania, and

twelve miles in Virginia; distances which will be in a small degree

increased by meanders, which the bed of the road must necessarily make

between the points mentioned in the location; and this route, it is

believed, comprehends more important advantages than could be afforded

in any other, inasmuch as it has a capacity at least equal to any other

in extending advantages of a highway; and at the same time establishes

the shortest portage between the points already navigated, and on the

way accommodates other and nearer points to which navigation may be

extended, and still shorten the portage.

"It intersects Big Youghiogheny at the nearest point from Cumberland,

then lies nearly parallel with that river for the distance of twenty

miles, and at the west foot of Laurel Hill lies within five miles of

Connellsville, from which the Youghiogheny is navigated; and in the same

direction the route intersects at Brownsville, the nearest point on the

Monongahela river within the district.

"The improvement of the Youghiogheny navigation is a subject of too much

importance to remain long neglected; and the capacity of that river, as

high up as the falls (twelve miles above Connellsville), is said to be

equal, at a small expense, with the parts already navigated below. The

obstructions at the falls, and a rocky rapid near Turkey Foot,

constitute the principal impediments in that river to the intersection

of the route, and as much higher as the stream has a capacity for

navigation; and these difficulties will doubtless be removed when the

intercourse shall warrant the measure.

"Under these circumstances the portage may be thus stated: From

Cumberland to Monongahela, sixty-six and one-half miles. From Cumberland

to a point in measure with Connellsville, on the Youghiogheny river,

fifty-one and one-half miles. From Cumberland to a point in measure with

the lower end of the falls of Youghiogheny, which will lie two miles

north of the public road, forty-three miles. From Cumberland to the

intersection of the route with the Youghiogheny river, thirty-four

miles.

"Nothing is here said of the Little Youghiogheny, which lies nearer

Cumberland; the stream being unusually crooked, its navigation can only

become the work of a redundant population.

"The point which this route locates, at the west foot of Laurel Hill,

having cleared the whole of the Alleghany mountain, is so situated as to

extend the advantages of an easy way through the great barrier, with

more equal justice to the best parts of the country between Laurel Hill

and the Ohio. Lines from this point to Pittsburg and Morgan town,

diverging nearly at the same angle, open upon equal terms to all parts

of the western country that can make use of this portage; and which may

include the settlements from Pittsburg, up Big Beaver to the Connecticut

reserve, on Lake Erie, as well as those on the southern borders of the

Ohio and all the intermediate country.

"Brownsville is nearly equidistant from Big Beaver and Fishing creek,

and equally convenient to all the crossing places on the Ohio, between

these extremes. As a port, it is at least equal to any on the

Monongahela within the limits, and holds superior advantages in

furnishing supplies to emigrants, traders, and other travelers by land

or water.

"Not unmindful of the claims of towns and their capacity of

reciprocating advantages on public roads, the commissioners were not

insensible of the disadvantage which Uniontown must feel from the want

of that accommodation which a more southwardly direction of the route

would have afforded; but as that could not take place without a

relinquishment of the shortest passage, considerations of public

benefit could not yield to feelings of minor import. Uniontown being

the seat of justice for Fayette county, Pennsylvania, is not without a

share of public benefits, and may partake of the advantages of this

portage upon equal terms with Connellsville, a growing town, with the

advantage of respectable water-works adjoining, in the manufactory of

flour and iron.

"After reaching the nearest navigation on the western waters, at a point

best calculated to diffuse the benefits of a great highway, in the

greatest possible latitude east of the Ohio, it was considered that, to

fulfill the objects of the law, it remained for the commissioners to

give such a direction to the road as would best secure a certainty of

navigation on the Ohio at all seasons, combining, as far as possible,

the inland accommodation of remote points westwardly. It was found that

the obstructions in the Ohio, within the limits between Steubenville and

Grave creek, lay principally above the town and mouth of Wheeling; a

circumstance ascertained by the commissioners in their examination of

the channel, as well as by common usage, which has long given a decided

preference to Wheeling as a place of embarkation and port of departure

in dry seasons. It was also seen that Wheeling lay in a line from

Brownsville to the centre of the state of Ohio and Post Vincennes. These

circumstances favoring and corresponding with the chief objects in view

in this last direction of the route, and the ground from Wheeling

westwardly being known of equal fitness with any other way out from the

river, it was thought most proper, under these several considerations,

to locate the point mentioned below the mouth of Wheeling. In taking

this point in preference to one higher up and in the town of Wheeling,

the public benefit and convenience were consulted, inasmuch as the

present crossing place over the Ohio from the town is so contrived and

confined as to subject passengers to extraordinary ferriage and delay,

by entering and clearing a ferry-boat on each side of Wheeling island,

which lies before the town and precludes the opportunity of fording when

the river is crossed in that way, above and below the island. From the

point located, a safe crossing is afforded at the lower point of the

island by a ferry in high, and a good ford at low water.

"The face of the country within the limits prescribed is generally very

uneven, and in many places broken by a succession of high mountains and

deep hollows, too formidable to be reduced within five degrees of the

horizon, but by crossing them obliquely, a mode which, although it

imposes a heavy task of hill-side digging, obviates generally the

necessity of reducing hills and filling hollows, which, on these

grounds, would be an attempt truly quixotic. This inequality of the

surface is not confined to the Alleghany mountain; the country between

the Monongahela and Ohio rivers, although less elevated, is not better

adapted for the bed of a road, being filled with impediments of hills

and hollows, which present considerable difficulties, and wants that

super-abundance and convenience of stone found in the mountain.

"The indirect course of the road now traveled, and the frequent

elevations and depressions which occur, that exceed the limits of the

law, preclude the possibility of occupying it in any extent without

great sacrifice of distance, and forbid the use of it, in any one part

for more than half a mile, or more than two or three miles in the whole.

"The expense of rendering the road now in contemplation passable, may,

therefore, amount to a larger sum than may have been supposed necessary,

under an idea of embracing in it a considerable part of the old road;

but it is believed that the contrary will be found most correct, and

that a sum sufficient to open the new could not be expended on the same

distance of the old road with equal benefit.

"The sum required for the road in contemplation will depend on the style

and manner of making it; as a common road cannot remove the difficulties

which always exist on deep grounds, and particularly in wet seasons, and

as nothing short of a firm, substantial, well-formed, stone-capped road

can remove the causes which led to the measure of improvement, or render

the institution as commodious as a great and growing intercourse appears

to require, the expense of such a road next becomes the subject of

inquiry.

"In this inquiry the commissioners can only form an estimate by

recurring to the experience of Pennsylvania and Maryland in the business

of artificial roads. Upon this data, and a comparison of the grounds and

proximity of the materials for covering, there are reasons for belief

that, on the route reported, a complete road may be made at an expense

not exceeding six thousand dollars per mile, exclusive of bridges over

the principal streams on the way. The average expense of the Lancaster,

as well as Baltimore and Frederick turnpike, is considerably higher; but

it is believed that the convenient supply of stone which the mountain

affords will, on those grounds, reduce the expense to the rate here

stated.

"As to the policy of incurring this expense, it is not the province of

the commissioners to declare; but they cannot, however, withhold

assurances of a firm belief that the purse of the nation cannot be more

seasonably opened, or more happily applied, than in promoting the speedy

and effectual establishment of a great and easy road on the way

contemplated.

"In the discharge of all these duties, the commissioners have been

actuated by an ardent desire to render the institution as useful and

commodious as possible; and, impressed with a strong sense of the

necessity which urges the speedy establishment of the road, they have to

regret the circumstances which delay the completion of the part assigned

them. They, however, in some measure, content themselves with the

reflection that it will not retard the progress of the work, as the

opening of the road cannot commence before spring, and may then begin

with making the way.

"The extra expense incident to the service from the necessity (and

propriety, as it relates to public economy,) of employing men not

provided for by law will, it is hoped, be recognized and provision made

for the payment of that and similar expenses, when in future it may be

indispensably incurred.

"The commissioners having engaged in a service in which their zeal did

not permit them to calculate the difference between their pay and the

expense to which the service subjected them, cannot suppose it the wish

or intention of the government to accept of their services for a mere

indemnification of their expense of subsistence, which will be very much

the case under the present allowance; they, therefore, allow themselves

to hope and expect that measures will be taken to provide such further

compensation as may, under all circumstances, be thought neither profuse

nor parsimonious.

"The painful anxiety manifested by the inhabitants of the district

explored, and their general desire to know the route determined on,

suggested the measure of promulgation, which, after some deliberation,

was agreed on by way of circular letter, which has been forwarded to

those persons to whom precaution was useful, and afterward sent to one

of the presses in that quarter for publication, in the form of the

document No. 3, which accompanies this report.

"All which is, with due deference, submitted.

ELI WILLIAMS,

THOMAS MOORE,

JOSEPH KERR.

December 30, 1806."

Starting from Cumberland the general alignment of Braddock's Road was

pursued, until the point was reached where the old thoroughfare left the

old portage trail, on the summit of Laurel Hill. The course was then

laid straight toward Brownsville (Redstone Old Fort) probably along the

general alignment of the old Indian portage path, and an earlier road.

From Brownsville to Washington was an old road, possibly the course of

the Indian trail.

As has already been suggested, there was a dispute concerning the point

where the road would touch the Ohio River. The rivalry was most intense

between Wheeling and Steubenville. Wheeling won through the influence of

Henry Clay, to whom a monument was erected at a later date near the town

on the old road. The commissioners rendered a second report on the

fifteenth of January, 1808 as follows:

"The undersigned, commissioners appointed under the law of the United

States, entitled 'An act to regulate the laying out and making a road

from Cumberland, in the State of Maryland, to the State of Ohio,' in

addition to the communications heretofore made, beg leave further to

report to the President of the United States, that, by the delay of the

answer of the Legislature of Pennsylvania to the application for

permission to pass the road through that state, the commissioners could

not proceed to the business of the road in the spring before vegetation

had so far advanced as to render the work of exploring and surveying

difficult and tedious, from which circumstance it was postponed till the

last autumn, when the business was again resumed. That, in obedience to

the special instructions given them, the route heretofore reported has

been so changed as to pass through Uniontown, and that they have

completed the location, gradation, and marking of the route from

Cumberland to Brownsville, Bridgeport, and the Monongahela river,

agreeably to a plat of the courses, distances and grades in which is

described the marks and monuments by which the route is designated, and

which is herewith exhibited; that by this plat and measurement it will

appear (when compared with the road now traveled) there is a saving of

four miles of distance between Cumberland and Brownsville on the new

route.

"In the gradation of the surface of the route (which became necessary)

is ascertained the comparative elevation and depression of different

points on the route, and taking a point ten feet above the surface of

low water in the Potomac river at Cumberland, as the horizon, the most

prominent points are found to be elevated as follows, viz.:

_Feet_

Summit of Wills mountain 581.

Western foot of same 304.4

Summit of Savage mountain 2,022.24

Savage river 1,741.6

Summit Little Savage mountain 1,900.4

Branch Pine Run, first Western water 1,699.9

Summit of Red Hill (afterwards called shades of death) 1,914.3

Summit Little Meadow mountain 2,026.16

Little Youghiogheny river 1,322.6

East Fork of Shade run 1,558.92

Summit of Negro mountain, highest point[3] 2,328.12

Middle branch of White's creek, at the west foot of Negro

mountain 1,360.5

White's creek 1,195.5

Big Youghiogheny river 645.5

Summit of ridge between Youghiogheny river and Beaver waters 1,514.5

Beaver Run 1,123.8

Summit of Laurel Hill 1,550.16

Court House in Uniontown 274.65

A point ten feet above the surfaceof low water in the

Monongahela river, at the mouth of Dunlap's creek 119.26

"The law requiring the commissioners to report such parts of the route

as are laid on the old road, as well as those on new grounds, and to

state those parts which require the most immediate attention and

amelioration, the probable expense of making the same passable in the

most difficult parts, and through the whole distance, they have to state

that, from the crooked and hilly course of the road now traveled, the

new route could not be made to occupy any part of it (except an

intersection on Wills mountain, another at Jesse Tomlinson's, and a

third near Big Youghiogheny, embracing not a mile of distance in the

whole) without unnecessary sacrifices of distances and expense.

"That, therefore, an estimate must be made on the route as passing

wholly through new grounds. In doing this the commissioners feel great

difficulty, as they cannot, with any degree of precision, estimate the

expense of making it merely passable; nor can they allow themselves to

suppose that a less breadth than that mentioned in the law was to be

taken into the calculation. The rugged deformity of the grounds rendered

it impossible to lay a route within the grade limited by law otherwise

than by ascending and descending the hills obliquely, by which

circumstance a great proportion of the route occupies the sides of the

hills, which cannot be safely passed on a road of common breadth, and

where it will, in the opinion of the commissioners, be necessary, by

digging, to give the proper form of thirty feet, at least in the breadth

of the road, to afford suitable security in passing on a way to be

frequently crowded with wagons moving in opposite directions, with

transports of emigrant families, and droves of cattle, hogs, etc., on

the way to market. Considering, therefore, that a road on those grounds

must have sufficient breadth to afford ways and water courses, and

satisfied that nothing short of well constructed and completely finished

conduits can insure it against injuries, which must otherwise render it

impassable at every change of the seasons, by heavy falls of rain or

melting of the beds of snow, with which the country is frequently

covered; the commissioners beg leave to say, that, in a former report,

they estimated the expense of a road on these grounds, when properly

shaped, made and finished in the style of a stone-covered turnpike, at

$6,000 per mile, exclusive of bridges over the principal streams on the

way; and that with all the information they have since been able to

collect, they have no reason to make any alteration in that estimate.

"The contracts authorized by, and which have been taken under the

superintendence of the commissioner, Thomas Moore (duplicates of which

accompany this report), will show what has been undertaken relative to

clearing the timber and brush from part of the breadth of the road. The

performance of these contracts was in such forwardness on the 1st

instant as leaves no doubt of their being completely fulfilled by the

first of March.

"The commissioners further state, that, to aid them in the extension of

their route, they ran and marked a straight line from the crossing-place

on the Monongahela, to Wheeling, and had progressed twenty miles, with

their usual and necessary lines of experiment, in ascertaining the

shortest and best connection of practical grounds, when the approach of

winter and the shortness of the days afforded no expectation that they

could complete the location without a needless expense in the most

inclement season of the year. And, presuming that the postponement of

the remaining part till the ensuing spring would produce no delay in the

business of making the road, they were induced to retire from it for the

present.

"The great length of time already employed in this business makes it

proper for the commissioners to observe that, in order to connect the

best grounds with that circumspection which the importance of the duties

confided to them demanded, it became indispensably necessary to run

lines of experiment and reference in various directions, which exceed an

average of four times the distance located for the route, and that,

through a country so irregularly broken, and crowded with very thick

underwood in many places, the work has been found so incalculably

tedious that, without an adequate idea of the difficulty, it is not easy

to reconcile the delay.

"It is proper to mention that an imperious call from the private

concerns of Commissioner Joseph Kerr, compelled him to return home on

the 29th of November, which will account for the want of his signature

to this report.

"All of which is, with due deference, submitted, this 15th day of

January, 1808.

ELI WILLIAMS,

THOMAS MOORE."

It was necessary to obtain permission of each state through which the

Cumberland Road was to be built; Pennsylvania, only, made any condition,

hers being that the road touch the towns of Washington and Uniontown.[4]

The first contracts were let on the eleventh and the sixteenth of April,

1811, for building the first ten miles west of Cumberland, Maryland.

These contracts were completed in the year following. More were let in

1812, 1813, and 1815; and two years later contracts for all the distance

to Uniontown, Pennsylvania were let. In 1818, United States Mail coaches

were running between Washington, D. C. and Wheeling, Virginia. The cost

of the road averaged $9,745 per mile between Cumberland and Uniontown,

and $13,000 per mile for the entire division from the Potomac to the

Ohio. Too liberal contracts is the reason given for the heavy expense

between Uniontown and Wheeling.

[Illustration: MAP OF CUMBERLAND ROAD IN PENNSYLVANIA AND MARYLAND]

A flood of traffic swept over the great highway immediately upon its

completion. As early as the year 1822 it is recorded that a single

one of the five commission houses at Wheeling unloaded one thousand and

eighty-one wagons, averaging three thousand five hundred pounds each,

and paid for freightage of goods the sum of ninety thousand dollars.

But the road was hardly completed when a specter of constitutional cavil

arose, threatening its existence. In 1822 a bill was passed by Congress

looking toward the preservation and repair of the newly-built road. It

should be stated that the roadbed, though completed in one sense, was

not in condition to be used extensively unless continually repaired. In

many places only a single layer of broken stone had been laid, and, with

the volume of traffic which was daily passing over it, the road did not

promise to remain in good condition. In order to secure funds for the

constant repairs necessary, this bill ordered the establishment of

turnpikes with gates and tolls. The bill was immediately vetoed by

President Monroe on the ground that Congress, according to his

interpretation of the constitution, did not have the power to pass such

a sweeping measure of internal improvement.

The President based his conclusion upon the following grounds, stated in

a special message to Congress, dated May 4, 1822:

"A power to establish turnpikes, with gates and tolls and to enforce the

collection of the tolls by penalties, implies a power to adopt and

execute a complete system of internal improvements. A right to impose

duties to be paid by all persons passing a certain road, and on horses

and carriages, as is done by this bill, involves the right to take the

land from the proprietor on a valuation, and to pass laws for the

protection of the road from injuries; and if it exist, as to one road,

it exists as to any other, and to as many roads as Congress may think

proper to establish. A right to legislate for the others is a complete

right of jurisdiction and sovereignty for all the purposes of internal

improvement, and not merely the right of applying money under the power

vested in Congress to make appropriations (under which power, with the

consent of the states through which the road passes, the work was

originally commenced, and has been so far executed). I am of the

opinion that Congress does not possess this power--that the states

individually cannot grant it; for, although they may assent to the

appropriation of money within their limits for such purposes, they can

grant no power of jurisdiction of sovereignty, by special compacts with

the United States. This power can be granted only by an amendment to the

constitution, and in the mode prescribed by it. If the power exist, it

must be either because it has been specially granted to the United

States, or that it is incidental to some power, which has been

specifically granted. It has never been contended that the power was

specifically granted. It is claimed only as being incidental to some one

or more of the powers which are specifically granted.

"The following are the powers from which it is said to be derived: (1)

From the right to establish post offices and post roads; (2) from the

right to declare war; (3) to regulate commerce; (4) to pay the debts and

provide for the common defense and the general welfare; (5) from the

power to make all laws necessary and proper for carrying into execution

all the powers vested by the constitution in the government of the

United States, or in any department or officer thereof; (6) and lastly

from the power to dispose of and make all needful rules and regulations

respecting the territory and other property of the United States.

According to my judgment it cannot be derived from either of these

powers, nor from all of them united, and in consequence it does not

exist."[5]

During the early years of this century, the subject of internal

improvements relative to the building of roads and canals was one of the

foremost political questions of the day. No sooner were the debts of the

Revolutionary War paid, and a surplus accumulated, than a systematic

improvement of the country was undertaken. The Cumberland Road was but

one of several roads projected by the general Government. Through the

administrations of Adams, Jefferson, and Madison large appropriations

had been made for numerous improvements. The bill authorizing the

levying of tolls was a step too far, as President Monroe held that it

was one thing to make appropriations for public improvements, but an

entirely different thing to assume jurisdiction and sovereignty over the

land whereon those improvements were made. This was one of the great

public questions in the first half of the present century. President

Jackson's course was not very consistent. Before his election he voted

for internal improvements, even advocating subscriptions by the

Government to the stock of private canal companies, and the formation of

roads beginning and ending within the limits of certain states. In his

message at the opening of the first congress after his accession, he

suggested the division of the surplus revenue among the states, as a

substitute for the promotion of internal improvements by the general

Government, attempting a limitation and distinction too difficult and

important to be settled and acted upon on the judgment of one man,

namely, the distinction between general and local objects.

"The pleas of the advocates of internal improvement," wrote a

contemporary authority of high standing on economic questions, "are

these: That very extensive public works, designed for the benefit of the

whole Union, and carried through vast portions of its area, must be

accomplished. That an object so essential ought not to be left at the

mercy of such an accident as the cordial agreement of the requisite

number of states, to carry such works forward to their completion; that

the surplus funds accruing from the whole nation cannot be as well

employed as in promoting works in which the whole nation will be

benefited; and that as the interests of the majority have hitherto

upheld Congress in the use of this power, it may be assumed to be the

will of the majority that Congress should continue to exercise it.

"The answer is that it is inexpedient to put a vast and increasing

patronage into the hands of the general Government; that only a very

superficial knowledge can be looked for in members of Congress as to the

necessity or value of works proposed to be instituted in any parts of

the states, from the impossibility or undesirableness of equalizing the

amount of appropriation made to each; that useless works would be

proposed from the spirit of competition or individual interest; and that

corruption, coëxtensive with the increase of power, would deprave the

functions of the general Government.... To an impartial observer it

appears that Congress has no constitutional right to devote the public

funds to internal improvements, at its own unrestricted will and

pleasure; that the permitted usurpation of the power for so long a time

indicates that some degree of such power in the hands of the general

Government is desirable and necessary; that such power should be granted

through an amendment of the constitution, by the methods therein

provided; that, in the meantime, it is perilous that the instrument

should be strained for the support of any function, however desirable

its exercise may be.

"In case of the proposed addition being made to the constitution,

arrangements will, of course, be entered into for determining the

principles by which general are to be distinguished from local objects

or whether such distinction can, on any principle, be fixed; for

testing the utility of proposed objects; for checking extravagant

expenditure, jobbing, and corrupt patronage; in short, the powers of

Congress will be specified, here as in other matters, by express

permission and prohibition."[6]

In 1824, however, President Monroe found an excuse to sign a bill which

was very similar to that vetoed in 1822, and the great road, whose fate

had hung for two years in the balance, received needed appropriations.

The travel over the road in the first decade after its completion was

heavy, and before a decade had passed the roadbed was in wretched

condition. It was the plan of the friends of the road, when they

realized that no revenue could be raised by means of tolls by the

Government, to have the road placed in a state of good repair by the

Government and then turned over to the several states through which it

passed.[7]

The liberality of the government, at this juncture, in instituting

thorough repairs on the road, was an act worthy of the road's service

and destiny.

[Illustration: CHESTNUT RIDGE, PENNSYLVANIA]

In order to insure efficiency and permanency these repairs[8] were made

on the Macadam system; that is to say, the pavement of the old road was

entirely broken up, and the stones removed from the road; the bed was

then raked smooth, and made nearly flat, having a rise of not more than

three inches from the side to the center in a road thirty feet wide; the

ditches on each side of the road, and the drains leading from them, were

so constructed that the water could not stand at a higher level than

eighteen inches below the lowest part of the surface of the road; and,

in all cases, when it was practicable, the drains were adjusted in such

manner as to lead the water entirely from the side ditches. The culverts

were cleared out, and so adjusted as to allow the free passage of all

water that tended to cross the road.

Having thus formed the bed of the road, cleaned out the ditches and

culverts, and adjusted the side drains, the stone was reduced to a size

not exceeding four ounces in weight, was spread on with shovels, and

raked smooth. The old material was used when it was of sufficient

hardness, and no clay or sand was allowed to be mixed with the stone.

In replacing the covering of stone, it was found best to lay it on in

layers of about three inches thick, admitting the travel for a short

interval on each layer, and interposing such obstructions from time to

time as would insure an equal travel over every portion of the road;

care being taken to keep persons in constant attendance to rake the

surface when it became uneven by the action of wheels of carriages. In

those parts of the road, if any, where materials of good quality could

not be obtained for the road in sufficient quantity to afford a course

of six inches, new stone was procured to make up the deficiency to that

thickness; but it was considered unnecessary, in any part, to put on a

covering of more than nine inches. None but limestone, flint, or granite

were used for the covering, if practicable; and no covering was placed

upon the bed of the road till it had become well compacted and

thoroughly dried. At proper intervals, on the slopes of hills, drains

or paved catch-waters were made across the road, whenever the cost of

constructing culverts rendered their use inexpedient. These catch-waters

were made with a gradual curvature, so as to give no jolts to the wheels

of carriages passing over them; but whenever the expense justified the

introduction of culverts, they were used in preference, and in all cases

where the water crossed the road, either in catch-waters or through

culverts, sufficient pavements and overfalls were constructed to provide

against the possibility of the road or banks being washed away by it.

The masonry of the bridges, culverts, and side-walls was ordered to be

repaired, whenever required, in a substantial manner, and care was taken

that the mortar used was of good quality, without admixture of raw clay.

All the masonry was well pointed with hydraulic mortar, and in no case

was the pointing allowed to be put on after the middle of October. All

masonry finished after this time was well covered, and pointed early in

the spring. Care was taken, also, to provide means for carrying off the

water from the bases of walls, to prevent the action of frost on their

foundations; and it was considered highly important that all foundations

in masonry should be well pointed with hydraulic mortar to a depth of

eighteen inches below the surface of the ground.

By the year 1818, travel over the first great road across the Allegheny

Mountains into the Ohio Basin had begun.

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