_May 29th._--This was Ascension Day, which is a grand fête. We saw a
long procession of priests and soldiers, which I do not remember very
distinctly. After breakfast we went to high mass at St. Louis, which we
were told was to be very grand. The priests had on very fine dresses,
gold, scarlet, silver, purple, green, and all colours. It was quite
like some show; they changed places on the steps and figured about as
if they were waltzing. The bishop had on a gold mitre; he was dressed
very splendidly. There was a great deal of fine flourishing music. The
priests flung about the incense, and the little boys dressed in white
muslin over red gowns rang little bells, on which the people knelt
down. We went to see service again in the afternoon; it consisted of
nothing but loud music like a waltz tune.[17] I missed the prettiest
sight, which was seeing a lady make the _quête_ or collection for the
poor. The lady sat before the altar; she had on a white gauze gown,
and a veil which hung down behind fastened round her head with a
wreath of roses. She had on white gloves and shoes, and was dressed
as if she was going to a ball. An officer handed her about, and the
concierge went before, knocking on the ground with his stick. (The
concierge is generally a very tall man dressed in plum colour; he
goes before the priests, funerals, etc.) The lady held in her hand a
little box of crimson velvet and gold which she presented to everybody,
and curtsied; a servant followed with a crimson bag, into which she
emptied the money when the box was full. The French churches are just
like some show. We were told that a French gentleman had stayed at
the English chapel one Sunday during the sacrament; he said he was
very much struck with the stillness and solemnity, 'avec nous c'est
tout comédie.' In the afternoon, before service began, we observed a
very poor, miserable-looking man sitting with a money-box before him,
and at one side a shell full of holy water (which we did not at first
observe). Miss Wragge, thinking he was a miserable object, as she
passed dropped a sou into his box; which no sooner had she done than he
dipped a little mop which he held in his hand into the holy water, and
sprinkled it over her face. This set some women who were kneeling down
a-laughing. After mass we saw the rooms of the palace; they were very
magnificent, but I had a much better view of them some time afterwards.
[Illustration: A PRIEST IN HIS COMMON DRESS AND A BOY]