MOUNTING FISH--BAUMGARTEL METHOD.
Some years ago A Practical Method of Fish Mounting was advertised by Mr.
Baumgartel in Angling and Sporting publications. Entire satisfaction was
given to those who studied and applied the lessons, through
correspondence school methods. Both the author and publisher of HOME
TAXIDERMY FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT, are indeed glad to publish the entire
course as used by Mr. Baumgartel, including diagrams, figures, etc., as
same together with copyright was conveyed to A. R. Harding.
The same degree of excellence in mounting fish has not been so generally
attained as in other branches of the taxidermy art, and this I believe
is because an equal amount of study has not been given the subject.
Hundreds can mount birds well to one who can prepare fish in as skillful
a manner, although the mounting of fish dates from as early a period in
the art of taxidermy. It is a question of method and the right one.
The usual methods of mounting fish have proven so unsatisfactory that
they have been almost entirely abandoned, and, until the method to be
described was devised, it was necessary to place specimens in alcohol or
other preserving liquids or to make plaster casts of them. The
objections to the former process are that it is expensive, requiring
especially constructed jars to show the specimens without distortion.
They usually lose all their natural colors, and in most cases shrink to
such an extent as to give only an approximate idea of their original
form. There are also serious objections to the latter method. Plaster
casts are easily broken and certain parts, such as the interior of the
mouth, cannot readily be produced. Further, it is not desirable in
natural history collections to exhibit casts of the objects when the
originals can be displayed. Then, too, the sportsman does not care for a
cast of his "Big Fish," but wants the real thing to verify history of
the one that didn't get away. To me a plaster cast of an object that can
itself be preserved is about as interesting as a nicely painted decoy
duck compares with a well-mounted skin.
As is the case with nearly every taxidermist, professional as well as
amateur, I have always been an enthusiastic sportsman. The desire to
preserve the specimens taken by me led me to devote myself to the study
of taxidermy. Perhaps the dilatoriness of the "artist" who mounted my
first specimens had a stimulating effect. Later, as a professional
taxidermist, I for many years mounted fish by means of the various
methods, but the results obtained were not satisfactory to me.
In 1903 Mrs. Baumgartel and I made a trip to Pine River, Michigan, for
trout. It was in June. The weather turned cold, and we took few fish. On
the twelfth I made what was to be my last cast, had taken down my rod
and was walking along the bank of the river on my way to camp, when at
the edge of a pool I noticed a fish jumping. I could not resist the
temptation to try one more cast, and making preparations I dropped a
Parmachene Belle a few inches from the spot where the fish had just
broken the water. There was a rise, a strike, and I was fast to a fish
destined to be mine. After an exciting struggle, I landed a
thirteen-inch grayling weighing one pound and two ounces. Of course,
this fish I had to preserve and wanted it to look as it did when taken
from the net. We boarded the train for home that evening, and supplying
my wife with reading matter, I was soon lost in meditation. The madam
told me many times during the journey home that I was not at all
companionable. Be that as it may, the result of the earnest study given
the matter, and the previous experience gained in experimenting with
other processes, was that a practical method of mounting fish was
devised, a method by means of which the angler can successfully mount
his own specimens. "Necessity is the mother of invention," you know.
A picture of this grayling is given below. It still occupies a position
in our dining room, together with others to remind us of pleasant days
on lake and stream. It is mounted with the very fly and leader on which
it was taken.
[Illustration: GRAYLING--RESULT OF MY FIRST EXPERIENCE AT FISH
MOUNTING.]
For the past four years I have successfully taught my method by
correspondence. A few years ago activities in other directions compelled
me to give up taxidermy work, and other interests now demanding more of
my personal attention, the publisher of this book, always on the alert
for something of practical value to interest his readers, will present
to you in these pages the identical instructions I have so successfully
used. I take the liberty of quoting verbatim from a letter just received
by me from a friend of a prominent eastern professional man, one who,
while "chained to business," still finds time to get "close to nature"
for a season each year:
"Referring to the fish mounted on our Newfoundland trip: I may say that
it was our first experience and we were agreeably surprised at results.
In all there were ten specimens of salmon, sea-trout and brook-trout
mounted and we found no great difficulties. All the work was
accomplished in an old barn after we got home evenings and early
mornings before going out. The only obstacle we encountered was getting
the fish back to the states in good shape. Five of the specimens now
occupy prominent place in the Doctor's den and I am always pleased to
point out to friends the results of our labors."
You can do as well.
INSTRUMENTS.
Knife.
Needle and thread.
Saw, fine toothed.
Scalpel.
Scissors, straight and curved.
Shears.
Skin scraper, not the toothed-edge.
Tweezers.
One can get along with simply a jack-knife, pair of shears, and needle
and thread; but to do first-class work easily, good tools are required.
MATERIALS.
Alcohol.
Aluminum leaf.
Arsenic, powdered.
Clay, potters' or modelling.
Eyes, glass, clear except pupils.
Papier mache, prepared.
Pine board.
Pins.
Plaster, calcined.
Tube paints.
Varnish, clear white.
Brushes.
PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS--Try first a perch or other fish having scales
firmly attached. See that the fins and tail are uninjured, and that no
scales are missing from the side to be displayed. As every perfectly
formed fish has both sides alike, and as ordinarily but one side can be
seen at a time, only a little more than one half of the fish is to be
mounted.
Note carefully the colors (including those of the eye and the interior
of the mouth) of the freshly caught fish, making a sketch of the
specimen, showing the extent of the different colors and markings, the
spots, if any, and the eye. The pupil is not usually round. The eye of a
lake trout appears like Fig. 1. A carefully kept note book is a valuable
aid.
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Eye of Lake Trout]
While the tail is of course a fin (the caudal), in this work it will be
called the "tail," to distinguish it from the other fins. See Fig. 2 for
key to the names of the fins.
[Illustration: FISH IN MOULD. (Fig. 2.)
Names of fins: D--Dorsal, A--Adipose, C--Caudal (tail), P--Pectoral,
V--Ventral, An--Anal.]
THE MOLD.--Wash the fish in water to remove dirt and mucus. On a board
somewhat longer and wider than the fish, place a sufficient amount of
moist sand in which to imbed the specimen to one-half its depth when
lying on its side in the desired position. Level the sand and hollow it
out for the larger part of the body. Large fish should be displayed
straight, with the mouth closed or only slightly open. Smaller and more
graceful ones may be shown in positions of activity; rising to fly,
breaking away, etc. If the mouth is to be open, fill it with cotton or
cloth in order to keep out the plaster. Place the fish in the position
you wish it to have when mounted, the side to be displayed uppermost.
See that the dorsal and anal fins, and the tail, lie flat on the sand,
and that one-half the body appears above the sand its entire length.
There must be no uneven places. Viewed from the end, it should appear
like Fig. 3; from the side, like Fig. 4.
[Illustration: END VIEW. (Fig. 3)]
[Illustration: SIDE VIEW. (Fig. 4)]
Heap up the sand all around, about an inch from the fish, to prevent the
plaster flowing off the board.
Mix a sufficient amount of plaster to cover the fish to a depth of about
half an inch, covering the fins and tail as well as the body. Mix the
plaster by stirring a little at a time into cold water until it has the
consistency of cream. Place the pectoral and ventral fins flat against
the body. Pour the plaster over the fish slowly and evenly (covering the
head, tail and edges first), allowing it time to dry until quite hard,
perhaps thirty to forty minutes. Then turn the mold over (it will appear
like Fig. 2) and, by inserting the fingers in the gills, carefully
remove the fish. Lay the mold aside for a time. Wash all sand and
plaster from the fish.
[Illustration: INCISIONS TO BE MADE. (Fig. 5)]
SKINNING THE FISH.--If the fish has scales easily dislodged, wrap it,
with the exception of the fins and tail, in several thicknesses of
tissue paper, which will readily adhere to the moist skin. Lay the fish
on your table, on the side which was covered by the plaster and place
wet cloths on the fins and tail to prevent drying. Commence at the gills
and make two cuts with the scissors or scalpel lengthwise of the fish to
the tail, cutting into the abdominal cavity below, joining these cuts
(see Fig. 5), removing the strip of skin, including the pectoral fin,
with adhering flesh, and the contents of the cavity.
With the fingers, or tweezers, grasp the cut edge of the skin of the
back and with the scalpel carefully separate it from the flesh as far as
the middle line of the back from the head to the tail. Remove the
exposed flesh to the backbone. With the knife, shears or fine tooth saw,
split the head lengthwise a little to one side of the middle, leaving
somewhat more than half. Do not sever the skin of the body where it
comes to a point between the gills, and use great care when removing the
flesh from this portion.
You now have a trifle more than one-half the fish to work on. With the
scissors cut through the ribs and remove the backbone with some of the
flesh. Be careful when cutting through the backbone at the tail not to
cut through the skin below. Going back to the head, remove the remaining
flesh, and with the curved scissors and scalpel cut away all the
cartilage possible from the head; the more the better so long as the
skin is not injured. If enough of the cartilage can be removed to expose
the muscles of the cheek from the inside, cut them away, taking out the
eye; otherwise it will be necessary to work from the outside of the skin
through the eye opening, and this must be done very carefully or the
skin of the cheek may be broken. With most fishes it is possible to
remove all the cartilage from the head, and this should be done to
prevent shrinkage. If the mouth is to be open, do not cut away its
lining or much of the tongue behind. The tongue is to be split
perpendicularly lengthwise and about one-third of it removed. When the
head has been thoroughly cleaned, remove the remaining flesh from the
body with the skin scraper or scalpel.
The ventral fin which is uppermost as the fish lies on its side and is
not to show, should be carefully cut off outside the skin. Do not cut
off the ventral fin on the side which is to be displayed. Do not scrape
away the silvery lining of the skin if this can be avoided. Some of it
will come off. Cut away the bases of all the fins and the tail inside
with the curved scissors and scrape away all flesh, working close to the
fingers so as not to stretch the skin. Tie the vent inside with thread.
Unless the fish is quite small, the skin of the lower jaw must be
loosened with the knife or scalpel and the muscles cut away. The
adipose, or small fleshy fin on the back near the tail of such fishes as
the trout, must be carefully opened from the inside of the skin with a
small-bladed knife and the contents removed, to be later replaced with
clay.
Place the skin in water to loosen the paper--if any has been
used--carefully washing the skin and wetting the fins and tail
thoroughly. You may allow the skin to remain in the water until you are
ready to put it back in the mold, but not longer than a few hours.
FILLING.--Brush the sand from the mold, and if the upper edge is uneven,
smooth it with a knife so that it will be perfectly straight. Should
there be any rough places on the inside of the mold, carefully scrape
them down with the skin scraper.
[Illustration: INSIDE BOARD. (Fig. 6)]
Cut out roughly a piece of soft pine one-half to one inch thick the
shape of the outline of the fish, but somewhat smaller, using the mold
as a guide. One side will, of course, be flat, and that side should be
uppermost when placed in the mold. Work up with water a sufficient
quantity of clay to about the consistency of fresh putty. Place the mold
on your bench or table, resting it on something soft (such as a piece of
old carpet or burlap) to prevent its breaking. Drain the water from the
skin and put it back into the mold, adjusting it nicely. The median line
will guide you. See that the head, fins and tail occupy the same places
they did before. Pour a little alcohol on the skin inside and let it run
along the bases of the fins and tail, over the entire inner surface of
the skin and into the head to preserve any bits of flesh that may
possibly remain. Drain off the surplus alcohol. Fill the adipose fin (if
the fish has one) with clay. Sprinkle powdered arsenic over the entire
inside of the skin and head. Do not use more than will readily adhere.
The chances are that you removed more or less of the silvery lining of
the skin. Whether you did or not, cover the entire inner surface of the
skin of the cheek and body with two or three thicknesses of aluminum
leaf. Do not cover the entire surface at once. Cover a small part at a
time, and then put on top of the leaf enough clay to cover it,
commencing at the head and continuing to the tail. Replace the muscles
and cartilage of the head with clay. Be sure to keep the skin properly
adjusted to the mold. See that the fins and the tail remain in their
proper places and that they are kept covered with wet cloths.
Flatten out the clay (a small quantity at a time) with the fingers and
cover the inside of the skin to the depth of about one-eighth of an
inch, pressing it down firmly, especially at the bases of the fins and
tail and into the cheek and head. Fit in the piece of pine, cutting it
down as may be necessary. Its shape will be something like Fig. 6.
Mix some more plaster, and before putting in the piece of board, pour in
the plaster on the clay, filling the skin perhaps two-thirds full.
Quickly, before the plaster sets, put in the piece of wood, carefully
pressing it down into the plaster until it is level with the upper edge
of the mold, removing any surplus plaster quickly and neatly. Sew up the
skin from one edge to the other as shown in Fig. 7.
[Illustration: SEWING UP THE SKIN. (Fig. 7)]
REMOVING SPECIMEN FROM MOLD AND DRYING.--Lay a piece of clean board of
the proper size on top of the mold, turning both over. Lift up the mold
a trifle, gently shaking it. The fish may or may not come out. If not,
turn the mold back, insert the point of a knife in the wood and try to
start the fish. In extreme cases it may be necessary to break the mold
carefully. However, there should be no undercuts to hold the fish.
Carefully wash the fish as it lays on the board to remove all clay and
plaster which may be on the upper surface. With the fingers smooth out
any wrinkles or uneven places. Sometimes, when drying, small wrinkles or
bubbles may appear in the skin of such fish as trout, but they will soon
disappear. If you placed the fish in a natural position when making the
mold and properly adjusted the cleaned skin to the mold, there should be
no wrinkles.
Place thin pieces of wood the shape of the fins between the board and
the dorsal and anal fins, which should stand out from the board a little
way. Cover the tail and the fins which lie flat with thin pieces of
wood, pinning them to the board until dry. The fins which do not lie
flat should be spread between thin pieces of wood held in place with
pins or clips.
When the surface of the fish is dry, which will be in from six to twelve
hours, give it a coat of the very best white varnish (the ordinary
yellow varnish will not do) and put the specimen in a well ventilated
place out of the sun to dry. In three or four days when the fins are
dry, remove the thin pieces of wood and apply another coat of varnish.
CAUTION.--Arsenic is poison and should be kept out of the way of
children and animals. Keep the box covered when not in use.
Cuts in the hand can be protected by covering them with liquid court
plaster. Clean the finger nails carefully when through work, washing the
hands in warm water containing a few drops of carbolic acid.
FINISHING.--While the fish is drying secure uncolored glass eyes with
the properly shaped black pupils and paint the iris from your sketch.
When the specimen is thoroughly dry, in two or three weeks, dig a
sufficient amount of clay out of the eye opening and put in the glass
eye, setting it in papier mache. Use the prepared mache, which only
requires boiling with water for preparation. When the mache is dry, give
the exposed portion of it one or two coats of paint of the proper color.
Now do such painting as may be necessary--for instance, the spots and
fins of the brook trout, colors of which have doubtless vanished by this
time. Use tube paint, thinned with the white varnish. Usually it is
sufficient to place a small quantity of the paint of the proper color
directly into the varnish. Do not use much of the paint--just enough to
secure the color and yet not obscure the scales. Where the markings are
prominent, put some of the paint directly on the fish and spread it with
the varnish. Brilliant spots, such as those of the trout, can be
reproduced by the use of the paints without the varnish.
While the specimen is drying prepare a panel for it. To show the fish to
the best advantage, the panel should be of polished hardwood, although
stained pine will answer. Bore two holes about half way through the
panel from the back, slanting upward, by which to hang it. (See Fig. 8.)
Bore two holes entirely through the panel in the proper places and screw
the fish to it, putting in the screws from the back of the panel and
into the fish where the wood is thickest. Countersink the screws.
[Illustration: HOME MADE PANEL. (Fig. 8)]
Finally, apply a last coat of the varnish. Do not varnish the glass eye.
By keeping a piece of writing paper between the panel and your brush you
can varnish the fish without getting any on the panel. It is best to put
on the final coat after the specimen is mounted on the panel, because if
the fish is handled before the varnish is hard finger marks will show.
[Illustration: SIDE VIEW. (Fig. 9)]
MOUNTING HEADS.--With a sharp knife or saw cut the head off squarely
just back of first (pectoral) fins, as shown in Figs. 9 and 10, which
show the head of a black bass. In this case the ventral fins are also
left on. Place the head on a board with the cut part down, spreading the
fins as in Fig. 10. If it is to be displayed with open mouth, fill the
mouth with cotton or cloth to exclude the plaster. Cover the whole head
with plaster.
[Illustration: FRONT VIEW. (Fig. 10)]
After the plaster sets, with a saw and knife cut the mold into two parts
lengthwise, being careful not to cut into the head. Use the saw first
and when the plaster is cut down close to the skin use the knife
carefully. Do not attempt to remove the head before cutting the mold in
two.
Remove flesh and cartilage from the head, line with aluminum leaf, and
proceed as previously instructed. Of course none of the tongue is to be
removed if the mouth is to be left open, in which case do not remove the
bony parts of the gills. Before placing the cleaned skin in the mold,
tie the two parts of the mold together. Cut a neck board to fit and set
it in plaster. Finish as previously advised.