TANNING, CLEANING AND POISONING SKINS.
I have used the following method for some years successfully on skins up
to and including the deer in size. Most larger skins need thinning with
a special tool, though an experienced hand can manage to thin a heavy
hide with a common draw knife.
An empty lard tub, a half barrel or a large earthenware jar to hold the
tan liquor, a fleshing knife and a fleshing beam are necessary to begin
with at least. Any smith can make a knife of an old, large file or rasp
by working both sides to a blunt edge and drawing the upper end out in a
tang for another handle. A piece of old scythe blade with cloth wrapped
around the ends will do, or a dull draw knife, either. One blade filed
into fine teeth will be useful in removing the inner or muscular skin.
[Illustration: FLESHING KNIFE. (Made from old rasp)]
A slab or plank 6 or 7 feet long, with one end tapered and half rounded,
on 2 or 4 legs of such length as to bring the end against the workman's
chest, makes a beam.
[Illustration: BENCH BEAM.]
A short piece of plank rounded off and bolted to the top of the table or
work bench will do for small skins.
[Illustration: ADJUSTABLE BEAM.]
Make up the quantity of tanning liquor you wish by the following
formula, also given in Chapter III:
Water 1 gallon
Salt 1 quart
Bring to the boiling point to readily dissolve the salt, and add
Sulphuric acid 1 fluid ounce
Allow it to cool before putting in the skins. _Handle the undiluted
acid with care._ Use common coarse salt and the commercial acid.
Skins not wanted at once may be left in this pickle for months without
injury.
About a gallon of pickle to a fox size skin is the correct amount, but
it may be used several times before losing its strength.
After the skin is removed from the carcass any blood and dirt is washed
from the fur, the flesh side well salted, rolled up and left 12 to 48
hours. Then thoroughly beam or scrape down the inside of the skin,
removing all flesh, fat and muscles. Skins already dry may be placed
either in clear water or tan liquor until they soften up. It takes
longer to soften in the tan, but if put in water it must be watched or
the hair will start, especially in warm weather.
A very hard, dry skin must be soaked and scraped alternately until
thoroughly relaxed. When well softened, treat same as a fresh skin. If
very fat or greasy, soak the skin in benzine an hour, wring out well,
hang up till the benzine is about evaporated, then place in the tan. If
not very fat the skin need not be put in the benzine first, but go in
the tan at once after being scraped. I use common stove gasoline for
benzine; it is as good for the purpose of cleaning and deodorizing, and
cheaper. It must never be used in the vicinity of fire or a lighted
lamp, as its evaporation produces a very explosive gas. For this reason
I do the cleaning and beating of furs out of doors if practicable.
Gasoline wrung out of skins may be saved and, after allowing to settle,
used again and again. It will not do for the final cleaning of white
furs, but for removing grease before tanning, it is as good as any. Stir
the skins about in the tan frequently that all parts may come in contact
with the solution.
Light skins like the fox will tan in 24 to 48 hours; heavier ones in
proportional time. When on pulling or stretching the flesh side, it
whitens, it is tanned. On taking from the tan, rinse the skin well in
lukewarm water containing a handful of washing soda to the bucketful.
Wring out with the hands and soak again in benzine for half an hour.
Wring out of this and clean the fur at once as follows:
Fill a shallow box part full of clean sand or corn meal which has been
heated in a pot or pan over the fire or in an oven. Work the skin about
in this until the fur is filled with the meal; then shake or beat it
out. Repeat the working in meal and beating until the fur is clean and
bright. Never put a damp skin into the meal without the gasoline bath
first, or you will have the time of your life getting the meal out.
Regular fur dressers use very fine saw dust, but meal is to be had
anywhere. Plaster of paris will do, but it is most too fine. This
treatment with gasoline or benzine removes the grease and animal odors
so apt to cling to Indian or home-dressed skins. After cleaning, allow
the skin to partly dry in the air and shade; then soften it by
stretching, pulling and rubbing in every part. There is no way to
accomplish this without work. A pad made of old bags, pieces of blanket,
etc., put on the beam, the skin placed on that and stretched in all
directions with the blunt edge of the fleshing knife is as good as any
way. Keep up the stretching until the skin is quite dry. If any part
should dry out too fast for the operator (that is, before it gets
stretched) it can be dampened with water on the flesh side and then
treated like the rest. If it is wanted extra soft the skin may be
thinned down with sandpaper. If the dressed skin is wanted to lie flat
as for a rug, it can be moistened on the flesh side; then stretched out
and tacked fur side up on a board, the table top or the floor until dry.
If this should cause it to harden or stiffen too much break it again
without stretching too much.
Another very good tanning solution is the following:
Salt 1 quart
Oxalic acid (pulverized) 4 ounces
Water 2 gallons
Dissolve well and immerse the skins, treating them as already directed,
rinsing in clear water only. It is also best to allow a little more time
for tanning in this solution.
While on the subject of dressing skins a few words in regard to cleaning
furs will be in order. White furs especially that have become soiled and
matted from use need cleaning frequently and are brought to the furrier
or taxidermist for that purpose.
A good washing in gasoline will usually remove the dirt, then dry out as
in dressing furs. Furriers often use powdered magnesia for this purpose
but almost any finely divided white powder will do about as well. A long
siege of beating, shaking and brushing will be necessary to get the
drying powder all out of the fur so it will not sift out on the garments
when wearing.
If the piece to be cleaned is large (like a coat or cloak) the lining
should be removed before cleaning. Neck pieces and small furs are
cleaned with linings, wadding, etc., intact. If the fur is so matted
that beating does not fluff it out, it must be combed, using a metal fur
comb to break up the tangles.
Charges for this work are based on the time used, though at least 75c.
or $1.00 each is charged for the small pieces.
As chemicals exposed to the changes of atmosphere are likely to lose
strength in time, the owners of mounted heads generally take the
precaution of having them poisoned against moth at varying intervals.
Personally I think once in three years is sufficient but some prefer to
be on the safe side where valuable heads are concerned and have them
treated yearly.
Large heads like buffalo, moose, and elk may be poisoned as they hang,
thus obviating any subsequent handling which would be to the detriment
of both specimen and operator.
Heads the size of deer and smaller are readily removed and replaced.
First dust the head well and comb the hair or pelt to detect the
presence of moth. If loose hairs reveal this the head should be removed
to the open air, unscrewed from the shield and saturated with gasoline,
which will kill both the moth and its eggs, after which poison against a
repetition of the offense.
Pin an old cloth or newspapers about the neck to protect the shield and
wall and spray the entire skin of the head with the diluted arsenical
solution as recommended in Chapter III. Seedsmen sell a sprayer for use
on plants which is about the most convenient size, though the larger
size used in the vegetable garden or even a toilet atomizer will
distribute the solution.
After it has dried wipe off the eyes and nose with a damp cloth and
handle as little as possible.
The common tariff on such work is for treating a single head not less
than $1.00. Two to four at one place, 75c. each, and over four, 50c.
This for poisoning only. Extra charges for killing moth. Such work
should be done in spring or early summer in the Central States in order
to be effective.