FIELD WORK, COLLECTING.
While it is unlikely that many readers of this book will undertake the
collection of natural history specimens in any great numbers or as a
special business, a few words on the subject may not be amiss.
It is well to bear in mind that the better the condition of the specimen
when it first comes to hand, the greater will be our chances of success
in properly preserving it. A small bird shot with a rifle is not worth
bothering with unless excessively rare, and a fur bearer which the dogs
have been allowed to maul and chew is very difficult to put in
satisfactory condition.
One rule of the collector in the field is to shoot each specimen with
the smallest possible charge of shot and powder which will kill it. I
speak of shooting, as probably three-fourths of the objects mounted by
the average taxidermist have been killed with fire arms.
Of late years a number of collector's guns have been put out by the arms
makers, though any good small bore shotgun will answer for collecting
all of our small and medium sized American birds and mammals. Some of
these guns of about .44 cal. are exceedingly accurate and reliable
performers.
In one case this small bore shotgun has been combined with a rifle, and
the light weight and portability of this little arm makes it about the
last word in guns for collecting all small specimens.
[Illustration: MARBLE'S SHOT GUN AND RIFLE COMBINED.]
It as well as other single guns of the same bore, is built to use a
round ball in the shot barrel, making them capable of stopping deer or
bear at short ranges. However, choosing a gun is like choosing a wife,
every one has their own tastes.
I would advise the would-be collector to load his own shotgun shells, at
least those for small birds and animals, as it is almost impossible to
get factory loaded shells but what are charged too heavily.
For the collection of animals for taxidermic purposes the use of traps
will probably yield some of the best as well as the more rare and
unusual varieties. Such styles of traps as least injure the appearance
of the finished specimen are preferred.
The old-fashioned snare, dead-fall and box trap are as good as any in
this respect. The wire spring or choke traps of Stop Thief style are
ahead of the common steel trap in this respect, but like the homemade
traps cannot be used in so many various situations.
[Illustration: THE "STOP THIEF" OR CHOKE TRAP.]
Water animals taken in steel traps may usually be quickly drowned. If
set on land they should be tended often to prevent suffering and usually
mutilation of the trapped game. Full information on this subject will be
found in Science of Trapping and other books on special animals by same
publisher.
The naturalist uses more small traps than large ones in most cases;
many, many more specimens being taken in No. 1's than in bear traps.
Several styles of mouse and rat traps are useful in collecting the
smaller mammals, such as mice, rats and ground squirrels of various
species.
Fish are to be collected any way you can get 'em, (legally at least).
Many varieties of these are to be bought at the large markets and many
rare and hideous specimens are discarded by market fishermen when
culling their catches. A few years ago before much restriction was
imposed on the sale of game it was possible to purchase many desirable
things at the markets of Washington, D. C. Not only bear and deer, but
elk, ptarmigan, arctic hares, sage and prairie grouse, fox squirrels,
pileated woodpeckers and many other odds and ends were offered for sale
as well as all the usual land and water game.
However you take your specimens or how badly damaged they may be when
they reach your hands it behooves you to see that no further damage
befalls them.
Specimens when shot should have all possible blood and dirt brushed or
washed from feathers or fur and all shot holes, as well as mouth and
nostrils plugged with a wisp of cotton to prevent further soiling. An
awl, or piece of wire will be useful for this. Blood should be removed
from white fur or feathers as soon as possible or it will be stained
more or less. Small birds should be dropped head first into a paper
cone, and laid in a basket or box if possible, the common hunting coat
pocket is apt to break delicate feathers, though if the bird is well
wrapped it may do.
Fur bearers will stand more rough usage and may be tied together by
heads or feet or packed in game bag or pocket. Fish should be wrapped in
paper to protect the scales.
It goes without saying that specimens which it is planned to preserve
should be kept cool if possible until work can be started on them. Some
varieties spoil more quickly than others; fish eating birds need quick
attention; most birds of the hawk and owl family keep well, as do the
pheasants, grouse, etc. Frozen animals keep perfectly in that state but
spoil quickly after thawing.
Keep away from blow flies. Specimens are often sent to the taxidermists
in apparent good order and when received are entirely ruined by fly
maggots; the eggs being deposited before packing and shipping.