CHAPTER VIII

PEASANT AND ARTISAN

From earliest youth I had been accustomed to the trim and pleasing aspect

of the French peasant, but lived long in Paris without ever having had

occasion to examine this class more closely than a walk in the country

permits. I chanced to summer one year in the Saintonge, and friends made

me acquainted there with an excellent miller and his wife who dwelt

upon their lands. I published in the _Speaker_ something about these

delightful people afterwards, and I cannot do better than quote from that

forgotten source:

“In the Saintonge, as elsewhere, the local mood is ruled by politics, and

private friendship gives way to public rivalry. I learnt all about these

feuds from my friend the miller of La Pellouaille. Intellect was not his

strong point, but there was a cheerful cynicism about him to lend flavour

to his commonplaces. While others affected the heroic or patriotic, he

was content to accommodate himself to circumstances. In reply to my

query—to which party he belonged—he said, with a humorous smile, ‘_Dame_,

I go with the strongest, naturally,’ which did not prevent him from

giving his own sly hit at the Government. I give his views for what they

are worth—neither brilliant nor original, but expressed with a certain

geniality of tone and temper that kept him from bucolic dulness. If the

Republic kept France out of mischief for the next twenty years, and

carried her into fair prosperity, he believed, by that time, neither

Bonapartist nor Legitimist would be remembered. For the moment the land

was in a state of ferment, and he thought it a pity such excessive use

should be made of those big words, Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity.

These three republican assurances be qualified as mere _blagues_; and

told me of a jocose tobacconist who wrote them on the sign-board of

his shop, with an empty tobacco-pouch suspended from each, the pouches

in France being called _blagues_. But the miller’s wife was certainly

his pleasanter half. It was a delight to look upon a creature so human

and wholesome and resourceful. She was a large, handsome woman, with a

smile as fresh as new milk, and hazel eyes as clear as daylight, beaming

with good-will, with vitality, and interest in her fellows. The kine

browsing in the fields were not more mild. Such a woman has you right

at nature’s heart—big and broad and bountiful. She is peasant in the

best sense, proud of her spotless cap and apron, free and independent in

her carriage, with shoulders that know no cringing stoop and voice that

cannot whine.”

This good creature took me rambling through the woods, she picking the

nuts, and I devouring them; and I found her talk ever sensible and

entertaining. Thanks to the natural good manners and intelligence of the

French people, there is far less difference than in England between the

uneducated and educated classes. My friends of the mill honoured me once

with an invitation to dinner. The sky was menacing, and, as I entered the

long park avenue whence the mill was visible, I saw the miller and his

son anxiously scanning the heavens and the green-roofed aisle of walnut

and sycamore by which I came. They hailed me with vigorous welcome, and,

as I rested in their beautifully clean kitchen, with broad and generous

fireplace, where the wood crackled pleasantly, and shone upon polished

brass dogs and gleaming bronze pots, with the high French bed in the

deep recess, the miller’s wife mixed me some _cassis_ and water. A more

excellent dinner I have never eaten than that cooked, without fuss, or

haste, or delay, by the miller’s wife. In a twinkling, as it seemed to

me, she had savoury tomato-soup on the table; and while she laid the

cloth, the miller sat in front of the capacious mouth of flames, and saw

that the browning chicken was kept moist with grease. I told them the

story of Alfred and the cakes, and the miller’s wife cried, “She struck

a king—a peasant just like myself!” “_Dame_,” laughed the miller, “it

doesn’t make much difference, when it is a woman, whether she be queen or

peasant!” And I thought the remark one that an English peasant would have

been incapable of making. He would have been incapable of such a point of

view.

The French peasant has not the charm of the Irish peasant—the women,

above all, lack the lovely complexion and beautiful eyes of the Irish—and

he has less of the grand air. He is much more the son of the soil and

less of the gentleman. The writer, wishing to be true to life, could

never make such enchanting “copy” out of him as Jane Barlow made of the

Irish peasant in her delightful _Idylls_. There is too little poetry

about him, and he is too evenly balanced and cool-headed to offer us

many of the adorable surprises of humour. I have heard it said, by

French persons who live in the country, that Zola comes nearer to truth

and reality in his presentment of the peasant than George Sand in her

exquisite pastorals, or M. René Bazin in such a tender and lovely story

as _La Terre qui Meurt_. But Balzac himself did not weave us tales of

romance and delicate feeling when he touched upon the theme; and so it

is very likely that the fellow is more of a brute than he seems to be in

casual intercourse, without, however, sinking to the loathsome depths

of the realism of _La Terre_. I, when I recall him to mind, own that I

ever see him a dignified, well-mannered figure in blue blouse, generally

clean, sometimes incredibly patched by his thrifty wife, frugal, sober,

hard-worked, not too garrulous, and yet not resentful of easy speech,

nor suspicious of the stranger who accosts him with courtesy. I find him

in all things, as he presents himself to the eye and offers himself for

observation, the superior of his British brother Hodge, neither so gross

nor so unintelligent, with a look in his eye much resembling humour.

He has his demands upon life, too, which are not those of the clownish

brute, the inarticulate rustic. Not for nothing was the Revolution made,

since by it has he learnt that he has his own share in the joys of

civilisation, and that if he work hard enough his sons may aspire to such

a measure of education as a harsher lot denied him. When business brings

him into a little town or a great city, his eye alights on beautiful

objects, placed there as much for him as for the owners of seigneurial

dwellings. Flowers, trim parks, legends in stone, splendid cathedrals,

every gracious blending of line and colour, combine to train his eye in

beauty and refine his nature. He need thread these quaint and lovely

streets with no slouching step, for he, and such as he, are too conscious

of their stable efforts in the general work of order and national

prosperity. He need touch his forelock to no great lord for permission

to breathe the free air of heaven, for does not he, too, possess his

bit of land, his little dwelling, from which none can oust him? And, on

feast-days and Sundays, are there not always public museums at hand for

his instruction and entertainment? No country in the world takes such

care to provide museums for the people throughout all the provinces as

France. Every year the State purchases pictures at the annual exhibitions

of Paris to add to these provincial collections; and in every little

town you pass through you are personally urged by some native to visit

the Musée. This fact may have something to do with the astonishing

intellectual superiority of the French peasant over Hodge beyond the

Channel. For the fact remains that you can talk to the blue-bloused son

of the soil and hope to learn something from him, when the absence of

loquacity and ideas and manners in Hodge will leave you discouraged and

in despair. The French peasant loves so many things that educate and

refine—flowers and pictures and military bands, spectacles of all kinds,

and independence.

[Illustration: AN OUTDOOR MEAL

_Zimenez_]

His standard is by no means an exalted one. His frugality is practised

in the interest of his old age. His honesty is chiefly, I suspect, a

shrewd protection against the probable dishonesty of others, for the

simple law of comradeship demands that you shall treat fairly the man

who treats you fairly. And his religion does not go down as deep as

his soul, or whatever may serve him as such. It is with him merely a

material influence, since it furnishes a serviceable plank for getting

safely across the perilous abyss into a better world, and enables him

to be decently baptised, married, and buried as a member of a Christian

community. All other phases of religion—its emotions, exactions,

penalties, and devices—he leaves to the foolish women-folk. Indeed, this

seems to be the conviction of the average male Catholic the world over,

if I may except Ireland, the one Catholic country in which I have found

men to take their religion seriously, and the little Celtic corner of

France, where the blue-eyed Bretons so closely resemble them. When I have

visited at a French country-house in the shooting season, I have never

known a male guest to attend mass, the explanation given being that _la

chasse_ had begun before the hour of mass. But if a woman stayed away

from mass she would create a scandal. In Spain I have seen acquaintances

of mine, while their women-folk knelt and prayed with fervour, stand

throughout the Sunday service with a bored and perfunctory air, only

looking towards the altar and the priest at the moment of the elevation

of the Host in a casually respectful way, as an officer might salute the

passage of a military chief, and seemingly relieved to be able to examine

again the faces and dresses of the women about them. Children barely in

their teens, young lads going to school, carefully imitate this attitude

of merely tolerant recognition of religious form, and their elders never

dream of encouraging them to use a prayer-book, or kneel, or show any

sign that the weekly mass is to them more than the bored attendance at an

official ceremony.

What is a moral influence with them? High above religion is their sturdy

passion for independence. It is this passion that enables them to scrape,

and serve, and suffer privation with dignity and patience. However meagre

their resources may be, they are content with their lot, provided the

roof they sleep beneath is their own, the land they till their own, the

goat, the pig, the poultry, theirs to do with what they will. This is no

mean standard, and it works miracles in France. Would they were by nature

and instinct kinder to their beasts! but this, too, is not a Catholic

characteristic. I am assured that the Bretons and Provençals are the

worst offenders. However, they do not sink so low in cruelty to animals

as the purely Latin races, like the callous Spaniards and the Italians;

and even in France the condition of animals is considerably ameliorated,

though horses and donkeys are still often maltreated, and geese are

killed in the cruelest fashion, their prolonged agonies, in peasant

esteem, lending flavour to the cooked flesh.

What should, however, be a source of perennial admiration is the

extraordinary absence in this class of anything approaching snobbishness.

The eternal simplicity and unpretentiousness of the race are my constant

wonder and delight. You will see a man in blue blouse, his wife in

spotless cap and coloured kerchief, the man in appearance and fashion

of speech and manners a gentleman, the woman educated, with her _brevet

supérieur_, not destitute of music or art, working and living like

peasants because they are working their own land, and receiving on

lines of perfect equality their humbler neighbours, without any thought

of giving themselves the vulgar airs so common in my own land and in

England. When they take their well-earned holiday at the seaside or among

mountain waters, you will rarely find them seeking to pass for other than

they are, or talking loudly of their advantages of fortune or station.

Their natural dignity is such that they are content to abide by it and be

judged accordingly. This class of the French race may be described as the

least vulgar, the least boastful of the world. With these cleanly and

self-respecting toilers there is no insane aping of the idler, no cheap

imitation of the _bourgeoise_ in dress, no awful spectacle of girls with

hideous feathers and hats the grossest assertion of ill-placed ambition.

Finery of any kind is recognised as the advertisement of something worse

than bad taste,—of the bonnet gone clean over the mill and morals gone

after it. The peasant woman’s vanity is to dress as her mother dressed

before her, her pride is to belong to her land and her people. And it

is because of this wholesome vanity and this noble pride that France is

France, and the land is such a pleasant one to travel over.

This hard-working race is not without its amusements. It must, as I have

said, have its share of the joys of life. They are never too tired after

a day’s work to dance to the music and measure of song, which they love;

and whenever you chance upon them congregated for diversion, whether

at a fair, on a moonlit sward, over a hilarious meal, you will always

find their behaviour seemly and their gaiety attractive and measured.

If the feathers and hats of holiday trim of Great Britain are lacking

here, so also are the repulsive giggles and the hateful love-making

of those latitudes. The French, we know, are not patterns of virtue,

but they certainly are patterns of deportment abroad. In that clever

little book, _The Island_, Mr. Whiteing depicts the love-making of this

class in England as certainly the worst enemy of the French could never

write with any semblance of truth of the same portion of the race in

France. “Like their North-American sisters, fond of feathers and bright

hues. No gaudier thing in nature than the coster-girl in her holiday

dress of mauve, with the cruel plume that seems to have been dyed in

blood. Relation of female to male, singular survival of primitive state.

Love-making always, in form at least, an abduction of the virgin. A

meeting at the street corner in the dusk for the beginning of the

ceremony; then a chase round the houses, the heavy boots after the light

ones, with joyous shrieks to mark the line of flight; after that the

seizure, the fight, with sounding slaps for dalliance that might knock

the wind out of a farrier of the Blues. In the final clutch skirts part

in screeching rents, feathers strew the ground. Then the panting pair

return hand in hand to the street corner, to begin again.” Of the meeting

of these dreadful lovers later in the public-house Mr. Whiteing adds—and

here, too, he paints a picture exclusively British, that never could

be seen in France: “Nightfall brings them together at the universal

rendezvous from every near or distant scene; men and those that were once

maidens, mumbling age and swearing infancy, stand six deep before the

slimy bar, till the ever-flowing liquor damps down their fiercest fires,

and the great city is once more at rest. The imagination of him that

saw hell could hardly picture the final scene.” And yet you will read

such things printed of the French not immediately under your inspection

that make you ask yourself if the rowdy love-making and public-house

bars constitute the worst possible degradation of humanity. The most

obvious, the most offensive assuredly, but not the least innocent. M.

Octave Mirbeau has recently done me the honour to send me his latest

book, _Le Journal d’une Femme de Chambre_. Not even Zola could conceive

a more terrible indictment against his own race. All classes are therein

depicted as equally corrupt, shameless, brutalised by irrepressed and

irrepressible vice,—nobles, _bourgeoisie_, servants of both sexes,

city and country folk, artisans and peasants. The book has an air of

sincerity, of being the truthful record of a lady’s-maid’s career in

Paris and in the country, so that one cannot discuss it as mere vicious

raving, and every character introduced is worse than the one that went

before. I question if humanity has ever been dragged into such infamous

depths with such a singular display of enjoyment in its degradation.

I read such charges, and I am stupefied with their divergence from my

own personal experience. The French servants I have known have all

been excellent creatures, devoted to their mistresses, grateful for any

kindness or interest shown them, surprisingly intelligent, honest, sober,

of lives of conspicuous virtue. They have the national failing, which is

a tendency to insolence on slight provocation—for you cannot reason with

French people. They fire up angrily at the least hint of an opinion that

displeases them, and their very independence of character makes them sin

on the other side of servility. But those monsters of their fiction—where

are they to be met with? How do they manage to hide themselves so

cleverly from daily scrutiny, if they are, as we are assured, so

persistently around us? Have any of the sweet-mannered Eugénies, the

Irmas, the Marguerites, the Louises, I meet at the different houses of my

friends, who greet me with such cheerful welcome, who take my umbrella or

cloak with such suggested sympathy, and put fresh flowers in my room with

such graceful pleasure, anything in common with M. Mirbeau’s unspeakable

wretch, Mlle. Celestine?

The same admiration I am compelled to entertain for the French peasant,

I feel for the French artisan, whether in town or country. Yet he, too,

has been depicted as a creature of loathsome perversity; but I can only

speak of him as I have found him. Some years ago, going from Cognac to

Angoulême, I decided to abandon the dull, incommunicative travellers

of the second class and try my chances among the loquacious third-class

voyagers. Here I fell into the very midst of good-humoured, general

conversation, and learnt more about the stirring local events of Cognac

and Angoulême than I should have known after a week’s residence in either

town. A young girl with a round, baby face addressed me in excellent

English, so evidently beaming with the joy of being able to do so that

I lavished my congratulations instantly, and learnt that she had been

for two years a nurse in Warwickshire, where she had picked up fluent

English and met with so much kindness and innocent pleasures of all

sorts that she adored the name of England ever afterwards. Certainly

not a sister of M. Mirbeau’s ineffable Mlle. Celestine, this dear,

sentimental little maid of Angoulême. It was a case of attraction at

first sight, for she begged of me to use her room instead of going to a

hotel, and be her guest at her father’s, a little watchmaker, during the

three days I projected staying at Angoulême. I accepted, enchanted at

a proposal that offered me such an out-of-the-way and original glimpse

of a French town. “Sweetness and light” are words that best describe

this delicious little creature. She was like a round, innocent kitten,

all gaiety and brightness, and sparkled and danced along the streets

beside me, crazy with the delight of talking English again. Girls, she

moaned dejectedly, were most unhappy creatures in France; they had no

pleasures, no freedom. She could not take her beautiful big dog Tom,

given her as a puppy in Warwickshire, out for a walk because it is not

proper in France for a young girl to be seen out-of-doors with a dog.

Poor little martyr, she did not look much of a victim, and missing and

yearning for the larger ways of England had not thinned or paled her

rosy, vivacious, round visage. Here she was, as happy as a queen because

she was going to sleep on her grandmother’s sofa that a stranger from

whom she would take no money might sleep comfortably in her bed. She

insisted on carrying my bag, too, as if that were another beaming source

of satisfaction; and as we trudged blithely up from the valley of the

station to the quaint street in which a quaint, dim-eyed old man lived

and made and mended watches in an altitude rivalling the stars, I saw

that Jeanne was a popular personage. Not this the timid French girl

who slips in and out of life unnoticed, and says, _Oui, monsieur; Non,

monsieur_, to the trousered wolves. The station-master cast her a cordial

nod; the doctor, climbing into his gig, heard her speak English, and

turned with a big, gruff laugh as he waved his hand to her. “There’s

Mlle. Jeanne, happy at last. She is able to calumniate us all in good

English to an insolent foreigner. _Pauvres de nous!_” and wherever we

went together those three days, I saw that the townspeople in shops,

down by the river the boatmen and boys, the women who showed us over

the museum and over the town-hall, the Alsatian manager of Laroche

Joubert’s huge paper factory, whither Jeanne and I drove next day, the

servants at the Duc de la Rochefoucauld’s castle, all knew, admired, and

respected Jeanne, the artisan’s daughter and Warwickshire nurse. She was

not pretty nor distinguished, she dressed like a dowdy nurse, and wore

cotton mittens, but I would I knew anybody in her position who could

attain such popularity in a town like Angoulême out of France. And all

with the utterest simplicity, and an excellent breeding. A heart-broken

shoemaker, a melancholy widower, who wanted her for wife, came to me

and begged me to use my influence in his behalf. He confided to me the

tale of his love, and felt sure that if Jeanne were urged to marry him

in the language of Shakespeare she would consent. She brought in to be

introduced to me a soldier to whom she was teaching English, a nice, mild

young fellow, who told me with gravity that in order to keep himself

abreast of English literature he had subscribed to _Pick Me Up_ for

himself and Jeanne, getting this luminous organ from Bordeaux. The doctor

and his wife invited Jeanne to take her foreign lion over one evening,

and we were made much of, and given syrup and water to drink. We stayed

out shockingly late of nights, for there was a splendid moon and I could

not be torn from the river. But when we entered on our upward toil along

the dark and silent streets, Jeanne would say: “Talk English very loud.

It is a woman’s best safeguard in France.” She called the English tongue

“a _coup de pistolet_ in French ears.” So whenever she saw a silhouette

in uniform, she fired off an aggressive shot of British vocables, and

when midnight, or later, found us under the watchmaker’s roof the old man

lifted his hands in horrified astonishment at our staying abroad so late.

It was another evidence of English eccentricity.

When I bade Jeanne good-bye at the station, I with difficulty prevailed

upon her to name a sum at least for my excellent board, if not for

the pretty bedroom I had used for three delightful days. Judge of

my amazement when at length she said, to put me at ease, and quite

reluctantly, that she would accept three francs for my three days’ board.

This I regarded as so ludicrous that I laughingly told her I would rather

discharge my debt from Paris, for I preferred to be remembered by a

present than take out of my purse three miserable francs in return for

all I had enjoyed. I declare there were tears in the child’s eyes, and

she sorrowfully assured me her holiday was over. She had never had such

a time at Angoulême since her birth: rows on the river by sunset and

moonlight, she steering, I rowing, and all the boatmen looking on and

cheering lustily; walks here, drives there, and Tom, the glorious Tom, in

honour of my nationality, permitted to walk with her, free beneath the

free heavens.

I saw many artisans at Jeanne’s, and never in one of either sex a hint of

grossness, of boorishness, of stupidity. Jeanne, I admit, was the pearl

of her set, speaking with polished diction, of manners gentle and urbane,

only a nurse, and yet a perfect lady in everything. Her bedroom denoted

her own charming refinement, with its blue and white curtains, its

spotless prettiness, the flower vases, and little bookcase not ignobly

filled. She spoke continuously of herself, of her wishes and dreams.

Well, never once did I get a suspicion of a flirtation in her life. She

spoke of men with dignity and simplicity, without simper or giggle, and

made no effort to lead me to believe that she was pursued by lovers. When

she referred to the shoemaker’s addresses, it was simply to express her

judicious fear of the immense responsibility of the post of stepmother.

Her dreams were not sordid or vulgar. She wanted more liberty as a young

girl, freedom to walk about with Tom, and not be hampered with so many

unwise and unwritten laws. For the rest, she seemed content with the

modest place she had in the world; and I have known many a wealthier

woman who might with reason have envied this bright little French

nurse,—an honour to her country, her sphere, and her sex. I have seldom

parted with a roadside friend with keener regret.

My next friend of the working class, and she, I am proud to say, is a

friend of several years’ standing, is my Parisian washerwoman. But here,

I am bound to confess, I am fronted with an exceptional character,—witty,

brilliant, of a liberal and bountiful nature, and original almost to

the point of genius. My washerwoman comes every Tuesday, and brings

gaiety and delightful wit along with her. She is all sorts of odd things

together: a fierce Nationalist, a hard politician, a violent atheist,

a hater of Jesuits and freemasons, inclined to Protestantism, if,

unfortunately, the English were not Protestants already; intelligent

enough not to have been dazzled by the Russian alliance, even when all

France went mad on the Czar’s visit. “He wants our money, mademoiselle,”

she said to me in those mad times, “and we are fools enough to believe in

his friendship.” Whenever you mention the Russian alliance to her, she

promptly asks who has seen that alliance written out on paper, stamped,

and signed. And at the time of the Dreyfus Affair she could tell me

to a centime the sum the Jews and the English had paid the Czar, the

Pope, and the Emperor of Germany. I was used to an excellent, witty, and

extravagant lecture on the intricacies of the Affair every Tuesday which

delighted me, as she always had some ineffable monstrosity on the part

of the Jews, the English, the Germans, or the crowned heads of Europe

to impart; and took my joking with such delicious good humour that I

did not know how to fill up the gap after the verdict of Rennes, for

she is a very seemly, dignified little woman, my Parisian washerwoman.

She stands upon her manners, and says nothing more than “Good morning,

mademoiselle,” if you give her eloquence no opening. And what an

eloquence it is! What a flow of admirably chosen words, so expressively

enunciated, with fitting gesticulations and the most wonderful grimaces

of the wittiest and ugliest face I have ever seen! Then came the

Transvaal War, and here she shone. Indeed, I have repeatedly begged her

to abandon the obscure calling of a washerwoman, and betake herself to

public speaking. I have never known a woman more astonishingly fitted for

the part.

With her, too, as with the peasant, the distinctive characteristic is

an indomitable spirit of independence. I have never seen her anything

else but gay and charming, but two Englishwomen to whom I recommended

her complained of her insolence, because, being the soul of honesty

and an excellent washerwoman, she will stand no “observations” either

about her washing or her prices; nor will she tolerate anything like

airs. She maintains that she is quite as good as the Czarina, quite as

useful, and probably more intelligent, as, if they changed places, she

is convinced she would make a better hand at sitting on the throne than

the Czarina would make with her washtub. The Englishwoman, I suppose,

made some remarks that wounded this susceptible pride, and the fiery

little washerwoman neatly tied up her bundle of soiled linen, and with

a magnificent and haughty gesture laid it at her feet. “Madame can wash

her own linen or look elsewhere for a laundress; I decline madame’s

custom,” and walked out. The race have an eye, an unerring instinct, for

the drama, and know how to render even the rejection of soiled linen

picturesque and effective. They will cheerfully wash your linen for you

and black your boots; but, as well as payment in coin, they demand that

you shall recognise their right to consideration and courtesy as human

beings. With the _ancien régime_, servility was swept away, and when your

boots are blacked you are expected to give thanks for the service instead

of lifting the toe of contempt in your servant’s direction. A Scottish

woman who married a Frenchman used to convey her opinions and wishes to

her servants by means of a horsewhip, and, though some years dead, is

still a legend in Paris for her domestic difficulties and interior wars.

She belonged to the earlier period, now happily ended, when a kick was

administered for a pair of clean boots, and servants were supposed to

swallow strong language with a grin. Slave-driving, too, is restricted

here, for I have never caught a glimpse of the poor London “slavey,”

overworked almost to disease and insanity. This may be due to the system

of flats, which saves labour, and does away with the necessity for

carrying cans of water up several flights of stairs, but I am inclined to

think that French character goes for much in the suppression.

Domestic service is despised by the average peasant, the girls looking

forward to marriage, the men to peasant proprietorship, which works

so admirably in France. And in many provinces very young children of

both sexes go out as servants. At the different houses and châteaux I

visited in the Saintonge it was always little girls and boys between

seven and ten who served at table, answered bells, and helped in the

house-cleaning. I cannot say I found the houses particularly clean,

which may be a consequence, but it was interesting and amusing to see a

tiny lad enveloped in a blue working bib sweeping the stairs, and little

creatures at table removing the plates with not an excessive clatter.

One of the good results of this infant service was the indulgent and

maternal attitude of master and mistress. Such wee, willing creatures

could not be scolded seriously when they broke plates or glasses, and you

could not take in their regard the high, impersonal air of England, where

servants are mere instruments, not accepted as flesh-and-blood humanity.

Here you must, if human yourself, smile and thank and pat a curly head or

diminutive shoulder as the quaint creature offers you a course, with, oh!

such a stern determination to hold it steady and not accomplish disaster

in the neighbourhood of your garments.

The standard of comfort, especially in the matter of sanitary appliances,

has in France made an enormous progress during the last ten years. Ten

years ago in the country even the better classes were little, if at

all, in advance of Spain. I have seen such things in châteaux as would

not bear description, and could not be credited except upon personal

experience. So I ask myself what must be the state of peasant homes and

of artisans’ dwellings. With, however, the advance in schooling, comes an

appreciation of domestic improvements, and the kitchen is rapidly ceasing

to be the best bedroom. Under the Third Republic, so much maligned,

public schools for peasant girls have increased, which are considerably

an advance on the old convent system of education. Nuns are the worst

teachers in the world and the least conscientious. We have the exposure

by the Archbishop of Nancy of the method of the nuns of the Bon Pasteur,

who train orphans, and instead of teaching them, merely exploit them,

and keep up a flourishing institution on the hard labour of children and

girls, and, when the time for leaving the convent arrives, cast them

out without an outfit or a farthing of all the immense sums they have

earned for the convent when they ought to have been learning lessons.

Of course, these republican schools are thwarted and vexed by every

kind of petty persecution on the part of the clerical party. The French

Catholics detest the lay teachers, whom they regard as the rivals of

the Christian Brothers and the nuns, and make them suffer accordingly.

Their writers of predilection make a point of holding them up for public

scorn and ridicule, and so M. Henri Lavedan shows us, in that detestable

play, _Le Vieux Marcheur_, a country teacher, Mademoiselle Léontine

Falempin, all that she ought not to be; and M. de Vogüé, to be true to

the modern traditions of the French aristocrat, when he makes the base

heroine of his dull novel, _Les Morts qui Parlent_, go wrong, jeeringly

says, “So acted the pupil of the good M. Pécaut.” M. Pécaut, a respected

and popular citizen who died lately, established an excellent lay

institution for girls at Fontenay-aux-Roses, and M. de Vogüé’s cowardly

attack upon a dead man of whom the world knew nothing but good, by

implying that a woman is impure because she has been brought up in his

college, aroused the just indignation of every fair-minded Frenchman. If

the theme were not too unsavoury M. de Vogüé would deserve that I should

retort by revealing the tales of scandal and vice I have learned of a

fashionable convent near Paris,—and these stories do not reach me from

outsiders, but from four women who were educated therein.

It is a source of astonishment to me how inventive the French “little

people” are in the matter of domestic stores. In Ireland, certainly, you

will see nothing like it, but perhaps it may be different in England.

Here all sorts of things are made at home: wines, spirits, liqueurs,

and essences; jams, jellies, oil, vinegar, linen, bread, and honey.

Everything in nature is turned to useful account, and the housewives are

never idle. They have fruit and vegetables in abundance, and live, on

the whole, well, if frugally. Their lands produce flax, hemp, cloves,

colza, wheat, maize, every kind of flower, according to season and soil;

and such is the elasticity of their temperament and their unsleeping

industry, that they have been able to float above that tidal wave, the

phyloxera, as great as any of the Egyptian plagues, as they floated

above the national disaster of “’70.”

The hero of M. René Bazin’s most charming novel _La Terre qui Meurt_, is

a _métayer_; and _métayage_ is land worked on the half-profit system,

a midway position between labourer and freeholder. The sermon preached

by this mournful little story is that the French land is dying for want

of cultivation, as the peasants are swarming into the big towns, where

they are not wanted, and leaving to waste the land that needs them. Each

name in France is selected with a regard for the dignity of mankind.

The cook and the barber call themselves “artists,” and thereby efface

any menial touch from their calling. The retired servant calls himself

a _rentier_, and the retired labourer decks himself in the gentlemanly

title of _cultivateur_. You may be a _cultivateur_ with “lands and proud

dwellings,” like the earl in the song, or you may modestly cultivate a

single acre.

With such a fine name in prospect, I wonder any peasant lad is lured

from the country to the big, unsatisfactory towns, as M. Bazin laments

in his tale of the _métayer_ and his sons. In the _métairie_ system the

partnership between landlord and _métayer_ is worked in this wise. The

landlord supplies stock, land, and implements; the _métayer_ brings the

labour, and the profits are equally divided. The _métayer_ boards his

labourers, and their wages vary, according to season, from seventy-five

centimes to two and a half francs per day. The agent, on this system, is

done away with, and the landlord and his partner stand as man to man.

The artisan, too, in the country enjoys a pleasant independence. He

builds his own house, he makes and maintains his own home with thrift and

ambition. The standard of honesty is high. There is little beggary or

drunkenness, and early marriages are frequent.

Of course the peasant is grasping,—it were idle to hide this, even in

praising his frugality. He is close-fisted and hard-headed, and would

rather part with his blood than with a franc; but he and his brother,

the artisan, have made, and help to keep, France where she is. However

deplorable the pictures of their land which French novelists and

story-tellers may offer us, we may believe, without fear of error, that

it is not _La Terre_ which represents the French peasantry, so human

and so lovable, despite its lack of disinterestedness and generosity;

and it is not M. Octave Mirbeau’s appalling heroine who represents the

great hard-working, honest, and intelligent artisan class. Both of them

have qualities above and beyond any to be looked for in the same classes

elsewhere; and if there were nothing else to admire, surely we must find

admirable their rectitude and their love of independence.

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French life in town and country · 第 8 / 12 章