CHAPTER VI

IN PRAISE OF THE PAPAW

Properties varied and approaching the magical have been ascribed to one

of the commonest plants of North Queensland; and yet how trivial and

prosaic are the honours bestowed upon it. That which makes women

beautiful for ever; which renews the strength of man; which is a sweet

and excellent food, and which provides medicine for various ills, cannot

be said to lack many of the attributes of the elixir of life, and is

surely entitled to a special paean in a land languishing for population.

Distinctive and significant as the virtues possessed by the papaw are,

yet because of its universality and because it yields its fruits with

little labour, it gets but scant courtesy. It is tolerated merely; but

if we had it not, if it were as far as that vast shore washed by the

farthest sea, men would adventure for such merchandise--and adventure at

the bidding of women. How few there are who recognise in the everyday

papaw one of the most estimable gifts of kindly Nature?

Some who dwell in temperate climes claim for the apple and the onion

superlative qualities. In the papaw the excellences of both are blended

and combined. The onion may induce to slumber, but the sleep it produces

is it not a trifle too balmy? The moral life and high standard of

statesmanship of an American Senator are cited as examples of the

refining influences of apples. For every day for thirty years he has, to

the exclusion of all other food, lunched on that fruit. Possibly the

papaw may be decadent in respect to morals and politics. The grape,

lemon, orange, pomelo, and the strawberry, each in the estimation of

special enthusiasts, is proclaimed the panacea for many of the ills of

life. One writer cites cases in which maniacs have been restored to

reason by the exclusive use of cherries. The apple, they say, too,

gives to the face of the fair ruddiness, but the tint is it not

too bold, compared with maiden blush which bepaints the cheek of

the beauty who rightly understands the use of the vital principle

of the papaw? Those who have complexions to retain or restore let

them understand and be fair.

In North Queensland the plant grows everywhere. In the dry, buoyant

climate west of the coast range, and in the steamy coastal tract, on

cliff-like hill-sides, on sandy beaches a few feet above high-water

mark, among rocks with but a few inches of soil, and where the decayed

vegetation of generations has made fat mould many feet deep, the papaw

flourishes. It asks foothold, heat, light and moisture, and given these

conditions a plant within a few months of its first start in life will

begin to provide food--entertaining, refreshing, salubrious--and will

continue so to do for years. Its precociousness is so great and its

productiveness so lavish, that by the time other trees flaunt their

first blossoms, the papaw has worn itself out, and is dying of senile

decay, leaving, however, numerous posterity. The fruit is delicate, too,

and soon resolves itself into its original elements. Pears and peaches

are said by the artistic to enjoy but a brief half hour of absolute

perfection. The artist alone knows the interval between immaturity and

deterioration. The refined and delicate perception of the exquisite and

transient aroma and flavour of fruits deserves to be classed among the

fine arts. Some people are endowed with nice discrimination. They are of

the order of the genius. The higher the poetic instinct, generally the

better qualified the individual to detect and enjoy the fugitive

excellences which fruits possess. Can a gourmand ever properly

appreciate rare and fragile flavours? Though he may be a great artist in

edible discords--things rank and gross and startling--can he in the

quantity of inconvenient food he consumes, be expected to pose as a

critic of the most etherealised branch of epicureanism? The true eater

of fruit is of a school apart, not to be classed with the individual

who, because of the rites and observances of the table, accepts,

in no exalted spirit, a portion of fruit at the nether end of a

feast. He is one who has attained, or to whom has been vouchsafed,

a poignant sense of all that does the least violence to the sense

of taste and smell; but, moreover, who is capable of discovering

edification in things as diverse as the loud jack fruit and the subtle

mangosteen--who can appreciate each according to its special

characteristics, just as a lover of music finds gratification of a

varied nature in the grand harmonies of a Gregorian Chant and in the

tender cadences of a song of Sullivan's. Are those who have sensitive

and correct palates for fruit not to be credited with art and

exactitude, as well as critics of music and painting and statuary, and

connoisseurs of wine?

As with many other fruits, so with the papaw. Only those who grow it

themselves, who learn of the relative merits of the produce of different

trees, and who can time their acceptance of it from the tree, so that it

shall possess all its fleeting elements in the happy blending of full

maturity, can know how good and great papaw really is. The fruit of

some particular tree is of course not to be tolerated save as a

vegetable, and then what a desirable vegetable it is? It has a precise

and particular flavour, and texture most agreeable. And as a mere fruit

there are many more rich and luscious, and highly-flavoured; many that

provoke louder and more sincere acclamations of approval. But the papaw,

delicate and grateful, is more than a mere fruit. If we give credence to

all that scientific research has made known of it, we shall have to

concede that the papaw possesses social influences more potent than many

of the political devices of this socialistic age.

But there may be some who do not know that the humble papaw (CARICA

PAPYA) belongs to the passion-fruit family (PASSIFLORA) a technical title

bestowed on account of a fancied resemblance in the parts of the flower

to the instruments of Christ's sufferings and death. And it is said to

have received its generic name on account of its foliage somewhat

resembling that of the common fig. A great authority on the botany of

India suggested that it was originally introduced from the district of

Papaya, in Peru, and that "papaw" is merely a corruption of that name. The

tree is, as a rule, unbranched, and somewhat palm-like in form. Its great

leaves, often a foot and a half long, borne on smooth, cylindrical

stalks, are curiously cut into seven lobes, and the stem is hollow and

transversely partitioned with thin membranes.

One of the most remarkable characteristics of the papaw is that it is

polygamous--that is to say, there may be male and female and even

hermaphrodite flowers on the same plant. Commonly the plants are classed

as male and female. The males largely predominate. Many horticulturists

have sought by the selection of seeds and by artificial fertilisation to

control the sex of the plant so that the fruit-bearing females shall be

the more numerous, but in vain. Some, on the theory that the female

generally obtains a more vigorous initial start in life, and in very

infancy presents a more robust appearance, heroically weed out weak and

spindly seedlings with occasionally happy results. The mild Hindoo,

however, who has cultivated the papaw (or papai to adopt the Anglo-Indian

title) for centuries, and likewise wishes to avoid the cultivation of

unprofitable male plants, seeks by ceremonies to counteract the bias of

the plant in favour of masculine attributes. Without the instigation or

knowledge of man or boy, a maiden, pure and undefiled, takes a ripe

fruit from a tree at a certain phase of the moon, and plants the seed in

accordance with more or less elaborate ritual. The belief prevails that

these observances procure an overwhelming majority of the female

element. The problem of sex, which bewilders the faithless European, is

solved satisfactorily to the Hindoo by a virgin prayerful and pure.

On plants which have hitherto displayed only masculine characteristics,

small, pale yellow, sweetly-scented flowers on long, loosely-branched

axillary panicles, may appear partially or fully developed female organs

which result in fructification, and such fruit is ostentatiously

displayed. The male produces its fruit not as does the female, clinging

closely and compact to the stem, but dangling dangerously from the end

of the panicles--an example of witless paternal pride. This fruit of

monstrous birth does not as a rule develop to average dimensions, and it

is generally woodeny of texture and bitter as to flavour, but fully

developed as to seeds.

The true fruit is round, or oval, or elongated, sometimes pear-shaped,

and with flattened sides, due to mutual lateral pressure. As many as 250

individual fruits have been counted on a single tree at one and the same

time. The heaviest fruit within the ken of the writer weighed 8 lb. 11

oz. They hug the stem closely in compact single rows in progressive

stages, the lower tier ripe, the next uppermost nearly so, the

development decreasing consistently to the rudiments of flower-buds in

the crown of the tree. The leaves fall as the fruit grows, but there is

always a crown or umbrella to ward off the rays of the sun. When ripe,

the most approved variety is yellow. In the case of the female plant

growing out of the way of a male, the fruit is smaller in size, and

seedless or nearly so.

Another curious, if not unique point about this estimable plant is that

sometimes within the cavity of a perfect specimen will be found one or

two infant naked fruits, likewise apparently perfect. Occasionally these

abnormal productions are crude, unfashioned and deformed.

Ripened in ample light, with abundance of water, and in high

temperature, the fruit must not be torn from the tree "with forced

fingers rude," lest the abbreviated stalk pulls out a jagged plug,

leaving a hole for the untimely air to enter. The stalk must be

carefully cut, and the spice-exhaling fruit borne reverently and

immediately to the table. The rite is to be performed in the cool of the

morning, for the papaw is essentially a breakfast fruit, and then when

the knife slides into the buff-coloured flesh of a cheesy consistency,

minute colourless globules exude from the facets of the slices. These

glistening beads are emblems of perfection. Plentiful dark seeds adhere

to the anterior surface. Some take their papaw with the merest sensation

of salt, some with sugar and a drop or two of lime or lemon juice; some

with a few of the seeds, which have the flavour of nasturtium. The wise

eat it with silent praise. In certain obvious respects it has no equal.

It is so clean; it conveys a delicate perception of musk--sweet, not

florid; soft, soothing and singularly persuasive. It does not cloy the

palate, but rather seductively stimulates the appetite. Its effect is

immediately comforting, for to the stomach it is pleasant, wholesome,

and helpful. When you have eaten of a papaw in its prime, one that has

grown without check or hindrance, and has been removed from the tree

without bruise or blemish, you have within you pure, good and chaste

food, and you should be thankful and of a gladsome mind. Moreover, no

untoward effects arise from excess of appetite. If you be of the fair

sex your eyes may brighten on such diet, and your complexion become more

radiant. If a mere man you will be the manlier.

So much on account of the fruit. Sometimes the seeds are eaten as a

relish, or macerated in vinegar as a condiment, when they resemble

capers. The pale yellow male flowers, immersed in a solution of common

salt, are also used to give zest to the soiled appetite, the

combination of flavour being olive-like, piquant and grateful. The seeds

used as a thirst-quencher form component parts of a drink welcome to

fever patients. The papaw and the banana in conjunction form an

absolutely perfect diet. What the one lacks in nutritive or assimilative

qualities the other supplies. No other food, it is asserted is essential

to maintain a man in perfect health and vigour. Our fictitious appetites

may pine for wheaten bread, oatmeal, flesh, fish, eggs, and all manner

of vegetables but given the papaw and the banana, the rest are

superfluous. Where the banana grows the papaw flourishes. Each is

singular from the fact that it represents wholesome food long before

arrival at maturity.

Then as a medicine plant the papaw is of great renown. The peculiar

properties of the milky juice which exudes from every part of the plant

were noticed two hundred years ago. The active principle of the juice

known as papain, said to be capable of digesting two hundred times its

weight of fibrine, is used for many disorders and ailments, from

dyspepsia to ringworm and ichthyosis or fish-skin disease.

By common repute the papaw tree has the power of rendering tough meat

tender. Some say that it is but necessary to hang an old hen among the

broad leaves to restore to it the youth and freshness of a chicken. In

some parts of South America papaw juice is rubbed over meat, and is

said to change "apparent leather to tender and juicy steak." Other folks

envelop the meat in the leaves and obtain a similar effect. Science, to

ascertain the verity or otherwise of the popular belief applied certain

tests, the results of which demonstrated that all the favourable

allegations were founded on truth and fact. A commonplace experiment

was tried. A small piece of beef wrapped up in a papaw leaf during

twenty-four hours, after a short boiling became perfectly tender; a

similar piece wrapped in paper submitted to exactly similar conditions

and processes remained hard. Few facts are more firmly established than

that the milky juice softens--in other words hastens the decomposition

of--flesh. Further, the fruit in some countries is cooked as a vegetable

with meat, and in soups; it forms an ingredient in a popular sauce, and

is preserved in a variety of ways as a sweetmeat. Syrups and wines and

cordials made from the ripe fruit are expectorant, sedative and tonic.

Ropes are made from the bark of the tree. By its power of dissolving

stains the papaw has acquired the name of the melon bleach; the leaves,

and a portion of the fruit are steeped in water, and the treated water

is used in washing coloured clothing, especially black, the colours

being cleaned and held fast.

In the country in which it is supposed to be endemic it is believed that

if male animals graze under the papaw tree they become BLASE; but

science alleges that the roots and extracted juice possess aphrodisiac

properties, and who among us would not rather place credence upon this

particular fairy tale of science than the fairy tales of swarthy and

illiterate and possibly biassed gentlemen.

And as to its beauty-bestowing attributes, an admirer's word might be

quoted as a final note of praise--

"The strange and beautiful races of the Antilles astonish the eyes of

the traveller who sees them for the first time. It has been said that

they have taken their black, brown, and olive and yellow skin tints from

the satiny and bright-hued rinds of the fruit which surround them. If

they are to be believed, the mystery of their clean, clear complexion

and exquisite pulp-like flesh arises from the use of the papaw fruit as

a cosmetic. A slice of ripe fruit is rubbed over the skin, and is said

to dissolve spare flesh and remove every blemish. It is a toilet

requisite in use by the young and old, producing the most beautiful

specimens of the human race."

THE CONQUERING TREE

Inconsequent as Nature appears to be at times and given to whims,

fancies and contradictions, only those who study with attention her

moods may estimate how truthful and how sober she really is. She is

honest in all her purposes, and though changeful and gay in apparel

never cheap nor meretricious. A slim-shafted palm shooting through the

leafy mantle, and swaying airily a profuse mass of fiery red seeds,

distinctive in shape, may be the prototype of a flirt, but the

flirtation which arrests attention and bewitches the beholder is also

innoxious. There is nothing of the artificial about the display. The

colours flaunted are true, perfect and pure, however cunningly, however

boldly by their means admiration is challenged. The true lover knows too

that in her least conspicuous moods, Nature is as consistent and as

wonderful as when in her exuberance she carpets a continent with

flowers, and when all the forests of a country, at her bidding, don a

mantle of yellow.

To exaggerate any of her methods were needless. She is never ugly, for

in her seemingly forbidding moods she wears a smiling face. The smiles

may not be apparent to all, but they are there for those who expect and

look for them.

Let a mangrove swamp be taken as an illustration of an untoward aspect

of Nature, and see whether among the apparent confusion, and the mud and

slime and the unpleasant odours, there are not many proofs of

good humour, kindly disposition, real prettiness, and orderly and

systematic purpose.

On the deltas and banks of all the rivers and creeks of North Queensland

and on many of the more sheltered beaches, the mangrove flourishes, that

ambitious tree which performs an important function in the scheme of

Nature. Its botanical title reveals its special character--Rhizaphora.

Very diverse indeed are the means by which plants are distributed. While

some are borne, some fly and others float. The mangrove is maritime.

While still pendant from the pear-shaped fruit of the parent tree, the

seed, a spindle-shaped radicle, varying in length from a foot to 4 feet,

germinates--ready to form a plant immediately upon arrival at a suitable

locality. A sharp spike at the apex represents the embryo leaves ready

to unfold, while the roots spring from the opposite and slightly heavier

end. The weight is so nicely adjusted that the spindle floats

perpendicularly or nearly so, when owning a separate existence from the

parent tree, it drops into the water, and begins its remarkable career.

It has been suggested that the viviparity of the mangrove is a survival

of a very remote period in the development of the earth--that a mangrove

swamp represents an age when the earth was enveloped in clouds and mist;

and that with the gradual decrease in tepid aqueous vapour the

viviparous habit, then almost universal, was lost, except in the case of

this plant. Other plants, however, exhibit the characteristic. Notably

one of the handsomest of the local ferns (ASPLENIUM BULBIFERUM) which,

with motherly solicitude, detains its offspring until they are not only

fully developed but are strong and lusty. As the fronds die they incline

earthwards, each weary with the burden of a new and virile

generation--some of which float down stream to foreign parts, some create

a colony round the parent. This fern demands conditions similar to the

mangrove--water, heat and humidity--and might be quoted in support of

the theory which gives unique interest to a mangrove swamp.

Whole battalions of living mangrove radicles fall into the rivers during

February and March. Out at sea miles from the land you may cross the

sinuous ranks of the marine invaders--a disorderly, planless venture at

the mercy of the wind and waves. Myriads perish, hopeless, waterlogged

derelicts, never finding foothold nor resting-place. But thousands of

these scouts of vegetation live to fulfil the glorious purpose of

winning new lands, of increasing the area of continents. This arrogant

plant not only says to the ocean, "Hitherto shalt thou come, but no

further; and here shall thy proud waves be stayed" but unostentatiously

wrests from it unwilling territory.

Plants like animals require "food convenient for them," certain

constituents of the soil, certain characteristics of environment, that

they may flourish and fulfil their purpose. This delights in conditions

that few tolerate--saline mud, ooze and frequent flooding by the salt

sea. Drifting into shallow water the sharp end of the spindly radicle

bores into the mud. At once slender but tough roots emerge in radiating

grapples, leaves unfold at the other extremity, and the plan of conquest

has begun. During the early period of its life there is nothing singular

in the growth of the plant In a few months, however, it sends out

arching adventitious roots, which on reaching the mud grasp it with

strong finger-like rootlets. These arching roots, too, send out from

their arches other roots that arch, and the arches of these similarly

repeat themselves, and so on, until the tree is underpinned and

supported and stayed by an elaborate and complicated system, which while

offering no resistance to the sweep of the seas, upholds the tree as no

solid trunk or stem could. Then from the plan of arches spring

offshoots, in time to become trees as great as the parent. Aerial roots

start a downward career from the overhanging branches, anchoring

themselves in the mud. Some young seedling drops and the pointed end

sticks deep in the mud, and grows forthwith, to possess arching and

aerial roots of its own, and to make confusion worse confounded. The

identity of the original founder of the grove is lost in the bewildering

labyrinth of its own arches, offshoots, and aerial roots, and of

independent trees to which it has given the mystery of life. One

floating radicle with its pent-up energy, having after weeks of drifting

and swaying this way and that to the slightest current and ripple,

grapples Mother Earth and makes a law to the ocean. Among the

interlacing roots seaweed, sodden driftwood and leaves lodge, sand

collects, and as the level of the floor of the ocean is raised the sea

retires, contributing by the flotsam and jetsam of each spring-tide to

its own inevitable conquest.

Not to one plant alone is the victory to be ascribed. As in the army

there are various and distinct branches of service, so in this ancient

and incessant strife between land and water, the vegetable invaders are

classified and have their appointed place and duties. Neither are all

the constituents of a mangrove swamp mangroves. In the first rank will

be found the hardiest and most highly specialised--RHIZOPHORA

MURCRONATA, next, BRUGUIERA GYMNORRHIZA (a plant of slightly more lowly

growth but prolific of arching and aerial roots); BRUGUIERA RHEEDI (red

or orange mangrove.) Some of the roots of the latter spread over the

surface and have vertical kinks. The roots and the accessories act as

natural groynes, causing the waves to swirl and to precipitate mud and

sand. BRUGUIERA PARVIFLORA and CERIOPS CANDOLLEANA assist in the general

scheme, the former depending upon abutments for security instead of

adventitious roots. Its radicles resemble pipe-stems, or as they lie

stranded on the beach, slightly curved and with the brown tapering calyx

tube attached, green snakes with pointed beads.

Surprising features are possessed by the tree known as SONNERATIA ALBA.

The roots send up a multitude of offshoots, resembling woodeny radishes,

some being forked, growing wrong end up. All the base of each tree is

set about with a confusion of points--a wonderful and perfect design for

the arrest and retention of debris and mud. Some of these obtrusive

roots are much developed, measuring 6 feet in height and about 4

in. diameter.

No less remarkable is the help that the white mangrove (AVICENNA

OFFICINALIS) affords in the conquest with its system of strainers.

Though different in many respects from the SONNERATIA, it too has erect,

obtrusive, respiratory shoots from the roots, slender in comparison,

resembling asparagus shoots or rake tines (called by some cobbler's

pegs) and which strain the sea, retaining light rubbish and assisting to

hold and consolidate it all. Each of the plants mentioned is equipped in

a more or less efficient manner for the special purpose of taking part

in the reclamation of land. In some the roots descend from the branches

to the mud where roots ought to grow; in others, roots ascend from the

mud to the upper air, where, ordinarily, roots have no sort of business.

Each possesses varying and distinct features well designed to aid and

abet the general purpose.

Other species of marine plants have their duty too. That which is known

as the river mangrove (AEGICERAS MAJUS)--which does not confine itself to

rivers--comes to sweeten the noisome exhalation of the mud, and with

its profuse white, orange-scented flowers, to invite the cheerful

presence of bees and butterflies. The looking-glass tree (HERITIERA

LITTORALIS), with its large, oval, glossy, silver-backed leaves and

boat-shaped fruit, stands with the river mangrove along the margin

farthest from the sea, not as a rearguard, but to perform the function

of making the locality the more acceptable to the presence of plants

which luxuriate in sweetness and solid earth. Another denizen of the

partially reclaimed area of the mangrove swamp is the "milky

mangrove," or river poison tree, alias "blind-your-eyes" (EXCAECARIA

AGALLOCHA). In India the sap of this tree is called tiger's milk. It

issues from the slightest incision of the bark, and is so volatile that

no one, however careful, can obtain even a small quantity without being

affected by it. There is an acrid, burning sensation in the throat,

inflamed eyes and headache, while a single drop falling into the eyes

will, it is believed, cause loss of sight. Yet a good caoutchouc may be

prepared from it, and it is applied with good effect to ulcerate sores,

and by the blacks of Queensland and New South Wales for the relief of

certain ulcerous and chronic diseases; while in Fiji the patient is

fumigated with the smoke of the burning wood. Several of the plants

produce more or less valuable woods. BRUGUIERA RHEEDI frequently grows

slender shafts, favoured by blacks for harpoon handles on account of

their weight and toughness. White mangrove provides a light, white tough

wood eminently adapted for the knees of boats. The seeds resemble broad

beans, and after long immersion in the sea will germinate lying naked

and uncovered on the scorching sand, stretching out rootlets in every

direction in search of suitable food, and expanding their leathery

primary leaves--even growing to the extent of several inches--while yet

owing no attachment to the soil. If it were not capable of surviving and

flourishing under conditions fatal to most plants it could not

contribute its quota to the formation of humus favourable to the

progress of the advancing hosts of tropical vegetation.

A weird and stealthy process is this invasion of the ocean, which leads

to the alteration and amendment of the surface of the globe. Here, may

be watched the very growth of land--land creeping silently, irresistibly

upon the sea, yet with a movement which may be calculated and registered

with exactitude. Having fulfilled its purpose, the mangrove suffers the

fate of the primitive and aboriginal. Tyrannous trees of over-topping

growth, which at first hesitatingly accepted its hospitality, crowd and

shove, compelling the hardy and courageous plant to further efforts to

win dominion from the ocean. So the pioneer advances, ever reclaiming

extended areas as the usurping jungle presses on its rear.

Nor must it be imagined that mangrove swamps are unproductive. Fish

traverse the intricacies of the arching roots, edible crabs burrow holes

in the mud, and in them await your coming, and more often than not

baffle your ingenuity to extricate them. Among other stalked-eyed

crustaceans is that with one red, shielding claw, absurdly large, and

which scuttles among the roots, making a defiant clicking noise--the

fiddle or soldier crab (GELASIMUS VOCANS). Oysters seal themselves to

the roots, and various sorts of shell-fish gather together--two or

three varieties appear to browse upon the leaves and bark of the

mangroves; some excavate galleries in the living trunks. The insidious

cobra does not wear any calcareous covering beyond the frail tiny

bivalves which guard the head--a scandalously small proportion of its

naked length--but lines its tunnels with the materials whence shell is

made, smooth and white as porcelain. How this delicate creature with

less of substance than an oyster--a mere worm of semi-transparent, stiff

slime--bores in hard wood along and across the grain, housing itself as

it proceeds, and never by any chance breaking in upon its neighbours,

though the whole of the trunk of the tree be honeycombed, savours of

another wonder. Authorities consider the bivalve shell too delicate and

frail to be employed in the capacity of a drill, and one investigator

has come to the conclusion that the rough fleshy parts of the animal,

probably the foot or mantle, acting as a rasp, forms the true boring

instrument. Thus, the skill of a worm in excavating tunnels in wood

puzzles scientists; and the cobra is certainly among the least

conspicuous of the denizens of a mangrove swamp, and perhaps far from

the most wonderful.

The most remarkable if not the strangest denizens of the spot are two

species of the big-eyed walking and climbing fish (PERIOPHTHALMUS

KOELREUTERI and P. AUSTRALIS) which ascend the roots of the mangrove by

the use of ventral and pectoral fins, jump and skip on the mud and over

the surface of the water and into their burrows with rabbit-like

alertness. They delight, too, in watery recesses under stones and

hollows in sodden wood. Inquisitive and most observant they might be

likened to Lilliputian seals, as they cling, a row of them, to a

partially submerged root, and peer at you, ready to whisk away at the

least sign of interference. They climb along the arching roots, the

better to reconnoitre your movements and to outwit attempts at capture.

Their eyes--in life, reflecting gems--are so placed that they command a

complete radius, and if you think to sneak upon them they dive from

their vantage points and skip with hasty flips and flops to another

arching root, which they ascend, and resume their observation. It must

not be assumed that the climbing fish--which seems to be more at home on

the surface of the water than below--climbs up among the branches. A foot

or so is about the limit of its upper wanderings.

Then, too, in what is generally regarded as a noisome, dismal, mangrove

swamp, birds of cheerful and pleasing character congregate. Several

honey-eaters, the little blue turtle dove, the barred-shouldered dove,

the tranquil dove, the nutmeg pigeon, the little bittern, the grey

sandpiper, the sordid kingfisher, the spotless egret, the blue heron,

the ibis--all and others frequent such places, and in their season,

butterflies come and go. In most of its aspects a mangrove swamp is not

only the scene of one of Natures most vigorous and determined processes,

but to those who look aright, a theatre of many wonders, a museum

teeming with objects of interest, a natural aviary of gladsome birds.

THE UMBRELLA-TREE

Having paid, in passing, respects to the most gorgeous tree of the

island, it would be sheer gracelessness to withhold a tribute to one of

the commonest, though ever novel and remarkable--the umbrella-tree. Less

conspicuous in its blooming than the flame-tree, it flourishes

everywhere--on the beaches with its roots awash at high tide; on the

rearguard of the mangroves, leaning on the white-flowered CALOPHYLLUMS;

on the steep hill-sides; on the borders of the jungle, and gripping

scorched rocks with naked roots.

While the flame-tree--few and confined to the beaches--flashes into

bloom--an improvident blaze of colour, without a single atoning green

leaf--the umbrella-tree charms for several months with a combination of

graceful foliage and a unique corollary of singular flowers.

From the centre of whorls of shapely glossy leaves radiate simple

racemes, 2 feet long, as thickly set with studs of dense heads of red

flowers as Aaron's rod with its magical buds. Crowned with several

crowns of varying numbers of rays, rarely as few as four, frequently

seven and nine and occasionally as many as twelve, each tree is a

distillery of nectar of crystal purity and inviting flavour. On every

ray there may be eighty red studs, each composed of twelve compact

flowers, and every flower drips limpid sweetness. For months this

unexcised distillation never ceases. For all the birds and dainty

butterflies and sober bees there is free abundance, and every puff of

wind scatters the surplusage with spendthrift profusion. Sparkling in

the sunbeams, dazzling white, red, orange, green, violet, the swelling

drops tremble from the red studs and fall in fragrant splashes as the

wanton wind brushes past or eager birds hastily alight on the swaying

rays. A rare baptism to stand beneath the tree for the cool sweet spray

to fall upon the upturned face, a baptism as pure as it is

unceremonious.

Red-collared lorikeets revel in the nectar, hustling the noisy

honey-eaters and the querulous sun-birds. The radiant blue butterfly sips

and is gone, or if it be his intent to pause, tightly folds his wings on

the instant of settling, and is transformed from a piece of living

jewellery to a brown mottled leaf caught edgeways among the red flowers.

The green and gold butterflies are for ever fluttering and quivering.

The complaining lorikeets peevishly nudge them off with red,

nectar-dripping bills, the honey-eaters disperse them with inconsiderate

wing sweeps; but the butterflies are not to be denied their share.

After a moment's airy flight they return to the feast, quivering with

eagerness. And so the weeks pass, the patient tree generating food far

beyond the daily needs of all who choose to take.

By a very moderate computation--such an orderly plan of bloom lends

itself to simple statistics--the average production of a fairly crowned

tree is over a gallon of nectar per day. Hundreds of trees so crowned

brighten all parts of the island with their red rays. And where the

nectar is, there will the sun-birds be gathered together--a sweeter

notion, truly, than carcases and eagles.

And this nectar, clear as dew-drops, sweet with an aftertaste of some

scented spice--a fragile pungency--was ever liqueur so purely compounded?

Drawn from untainted soil; filtered and purified; passed from one

delicate process to another, warmed during the day, cooled by night

airs, chastened by breezes which have all the virtue of whole Pacific

breadths; sublimated by the sun--all to what end, to be proffered to

birds and butterflies in ruddy goblets full to the brim.

THE GENUINE UPAS-TREE

Powerful as nutmeg pigeons are on the wing, some suffer lingering deaths

in consequence of a singular characteristic of one of the trees of the

jungle. Tall and graceful, with luxuriant glossy leaves, there is

nothing uncanny about the tree. In style and appearance it is the very

antithesis of "the upas-tree," upon which legendary lore cast unmerited

responsibility. Yet in certain respects it would be vain to enter upon

its defence. It is no myth. There is no exaggeration in the statement

that the character of the Queensland tree is actually murderous, and

that it counts its victims by the thousand every season. Of the great

host it destroys, all save a few may be very small and very feeble, and

from the human standpoint some of its death-dealing is perfectly

justifiable if not laudable. Not often, locally, is a bird destroyed,

but the fact that occasionally one has the ill-luck to fall foul of it

and to perish miserably in consequence, places the tree in the catalogue

of the remarkable. Neither spike nor poison is used nor any sensational

means of destruction but nevertheless the tree is sure and implacable in

its methods.

The seed-vessels of the Queensland Upas-tree, "Ahm-moo" of the blacks

(PISONIA BRUNONIANA), which are produced on spreading leafless panicles,

exude a remarkably viscid substance, approaching bird-lime in

consistency and evil effect. Sad is the fate of any bird which,

blundering in its flight, happens to strike against any of the many

traps which the tree in unconscious malignity hangs out on every side.

In such event the seed clings to the feathers, the wings become fixed to

the sides, the hapless bird falls to the ground, and as it struggles

heedlessly gathers more of the seeds, to which leaves and twigs adhere,

until by aggregation it is enclosed in a mass of vegetable debris as

firmly as a mummy in its cloths. Small birds as well as lusty pigeons,

spiders and all manner of insects; flies, bees, beetles, moths and

mosquitoes, as well as the seeds of other trees are ensnared. Spiders

are frequently seen sharing the fate of the flies, fast to seeds in the

humiliating posture in which Br'er Fox found Br'er Rabbit on the occasion

of the interview with the Tar Baby.

Insectivorous plants am common enough in Australia; but the "Ahm-moo,"

tree does not appear to make use of the carcases of its victims, though

it kills on an exceptionally extensive scale.

On some of the islands where the tree is plentiful numbers of pigeons

meet a dreary fate every season. The maturity of the seeds coincides

with the hatching out of the young, and inexperienced birds pay dearly

for their inexperience. The natural glutin is produced while the slim,

fluted, inch-long seeds are green, but its virtue remains even after the

whole panicle has withered and has fallen. So tenacious is it and

prompt, that should a panicle as it whirls downward touch the leaves of

lower branches of the parent, or of any neighbouring tree, it sticks and

becomes a pendant swaying trap in a new position. At first glance it is

not easy to identify the tree to which the obnoxious feature belongs.

The seeds occasion even dogs considerable distress, and might easily be

the cause of death to them. As the dog endeavours to remove them from

his feet and sides with his teeth, his muzzle is fouled, and he very

soon exhibits confusion and alarm, and rolling about in frenzied

attempts to free himself, gathers more and more of the seeds and

accumulated rubbish.

One is led to ponder upon the purpose of this provision--to endeavour,

if possible, to find its justification. Insects lured by the sweetness

of the exudation are callously entrapped, and why so? Do the seeds

require the presence of animal matter to ensure germination? In that

case the tree is indirectly carnivorous, and therefore decidedly

entitled to recognition among the curiosities of the island. Is the

glutin secreted to secure the wide dispersal of the seeds? If so, the

object is largely self-defeated, for seeds by the hundred cling as they

fall to the branches of the parent tree, and to those of its lowly

neighbours. Certainly some proportion of the seeds which reach the

ground must be borne hither and thither by the agency of that eternal

scratcher, the scrub fowl. But even a bird of such immensely

proportionate strength may be seriously troubled by them. A case in

point may be cited. A dog retrieving a scrub fowl, which had fallen in

the vicinity of an "Ahm-moo" tree, emerged with it entirely enveloped

with the seeds and adhering rubbish, and itself almost helpless from a

similar cause. In this happy chance the seeds were eventually widely

distributed. If the glutin is provided to prevent birds consuming the

kernels, then the object is perfectly served; otherwise no very

satisfactory reason is apparent why the tree should be invested with the

means of destroying even humble forms of life. Is this one of the "lost

chords" in the harmony of nature?

THE CREEPING PALM

Perhaps the most impressive feature of the jungle--that which takes fast

hold, clings most tenaciously, and leaves the most irritating

remembrances--is what is known as the lawyer cane or vine (CALAMUS). It

is a vegetable of tortuous ambitions, that defies you, that embarrasses

with attention, arrests your progress, occasionally envelops you in a

net work of bewildering, slender, and cruelly-armed tentacles, that

everywhere bristles with points, that curves back on itself, and makes

loops and wriggles; that springs from a thin, sprawling and helpless

beginning, and develops into almost miraculous lengths, and ramifies and

twists and turns in "verdurous glooms," ascends and descends, grovels

in the moist earth and among mouldy leaves, clasps with aerial rootlets

every possible support, and eventually clambers and climbs above the

tallest tree, twirling its armed tentacles round airy nothings. It

blossoms inconspicuously, and its fruit is as hard, tough and dry as an

argument on torts. Ordinary mortals call it a vine. Botanists describe

it as a prickly climbing palm, and no jungle is complete without it.

There are several varieties of this interesting plant, all more or less

of a grasping, clinging character, and each of vital importance in the

republic of vegetation.

Sometimes when it is severed with a sharp knife there flows from the

cane a fluid bright and limpid as a judge's summing up; occasionally it

is all as dry as dust and as sneezy, and its prickly leaf sheathes the

abode of that vexing insect which causes the scrub itch.

This plant produces lengths of cane similar in every respect to the

schoolmaster's weapon--familiar but immortal--varying in diameter from a

quarter of an inch to an inch and a half, and in length, as some assert,

to no less than 500 and 600 feet. Certainly 300 feet is not uncommon,

and one can readily concede an additional 100 feet, knowing the

extravagance of the remarkable palm under ordinary circumstances. And

the cane weaves and entangles the jungle, binds and links mighty trees

together, and with the co-operation of other clinging, and creeping, and

trailing plants--some massive as ship's cables, and some thin and fine as

fishing-lines--forms compact masses of vegetation to penetrate which

tracks must be cut yard by yard. When this disorderly conglomeration of

trees and saplings, vines, creepers, trailers and crawlers, complicated

and confused, has to be cleared, as civilisation demands the use of the

soil, sometimes a considerable area will remain upright, although every

connection with Mother Earth is severed, so interlaced and interwoven

and anchored are the vines with those clinging to trees yet uncut. Then,

in a moment, as some leading strand gives way, the whole mass

falls--smothered, bruised, and crushed--to be left for a month and more

before the fires destroy the faded relics of the erstwhile gloriously

rampant jungle. In all this the lawyer cane is the most aggressive and

hostile. Not only are there prickles on the 10-feet thongs, but the

leaves and leaf-sheaths are thickly beset. In one species the 6-feet-long

leaves bear upon the margins and upper surface long, thin, needle-like

points, black and glossy, and attaining a length Of 3 inches; the main

rib bears stout re-curved prickles, while the sheaths which envelop the

cane are densely covered with dark brown or black points 1 inch and more

long.

One cannot cut jungle and escape bloodshed, for the long tentacles of

the lawyer catch you unawares sooner or later, and then, for all are set

with double rows of re-curved points, do not endeavour to escape by

strife and resistance--it is no use pulling against those pricks--but by

subtlety and diplomacy. The more you pull, the worse for your skin and

clothes; but with tact you may become free, with naught but neat

scratches and regular rows of splinters. The points of the hooks to

which you have been attached anchor themselves deep in the skin, and

tear their way out and rip and rend your clothes, and your condition of

mind, body and estate, is all for the worse.

But the uses of the lawyer cane are many and various. Blacks employ it

as ropes, as stays for canoes, and, split into narrow threads and woven,

for baskets and fish-traps; and white men find it handy for all sorts of

purposes, from boat-painters and fenders to stock-whip and maul-handles.

Suppose a tree that a black wishes to climb presents difficulties low

down, he will procure a length of lawyer cane, partly biting and partly

breaking it off, if he lacks a cutting implement. Then he will make a

loop, so bruising and chewing the end that it becomes flexible and ties

almost as readily and quite as securely as rope. Ascending a

neighbouring tree, he will manoeuvre one end over a limb of that which

he wishes to climb, and slip it through the loop, and run it up until it

is fast. A cane 50 feet long, no thicker than one's little finger,

fastened to the upper branch of a tree, has on trial borne the weight of

three fairly-sized men. Thus tested, the black has no hesitation or

difficulty in rapidly ascending, and in lowering down young birds, or

eggs (wrapped in leaves), or whatsoever his quest.

Another cane-producing plant (FLAGELLARIA), though innocent of the means

of grappling, succeeds in overtopping tall trees and smothering them

with a mass of interwoven leafage. Each of its narrow leaves ends in a

spiral tendril, sensitive but tough, which entwines itself about other

leaves and twigs. Feeling their respective ways, the tender tips of

leaves of the one family touch and twist, and the grasp is for life.

Though not of such extravagant character as the lawyer vine, the

FLAGELLARIA seems to be endowed with perceptive faculty almost amounting

to instinct in selecting the shortest way toward the support necessary

for its plan of existence, which is to climb not to grovel. It spurns

the ground. New shoots spring from old rhizomes in the clearings, and

turn towards the nearest tree as though aware of its presence, as the

tendrils of a grape vine instinctively grope for the artificial support

provided for it. Progress along the ground is slow, but once within

reach, the shoot rears its head, stretches out a delicate finger-tip,

and clings with the grasp of desperation. A vigorous impulse thrills the

whole plant. It has found its purpose in life. With the concentration of

its energies, its development is rapid and merciless. Its host is

rapidly enveloped in entangling embraces, smothered with innumerable

clinging kisses.

MAUVE, GREEN AND GREY

An attempt to do justice by description to the rich and varied

vegetation of Dunk Island in these unlearned pages would bespeak an

idle, almost profane vanity. Yet the pleasure of revealing one or two of

the more conspicuous features cannot be forgone. In the term conspicuous

is included plants that attract general attention. Possibly the skilled

botanist might disregard obvious and pleasing effects, and find classic

joy in species and varieties unobtrusive if not obscure.

About 600 feet above sea-level, looking across the Family Group to the

great bulk of Hinchinbrook, there is an irregular precipice, half

concealed by the trees and plants that decorate its seams and crevices

and spring up about its cool and ever gloomy base.

During the greater part of the year water trickles down the grey face of

the rock in narrow gleaming bands, and wheresoever are the faintest

footholds there is a flower--mauve in its modesty. It is not common

enough to possess a familiar name, but botanists have called it BAEA

HYGROSCOPICA, for it is always found near water, invariably pure, cool,

fern-filtered mountain water. From the damp rock the roots of the plant,

matted and interwoven, may be peeled off in a thin layer, for the plant

is epiphytical, depending as much upon heat, moisture and light as on

any constituents of the soil for sustenance. When the season is

exceptionally dry, the thick, soft wrinkled leaves become parched and

shrivelled; but a shower restores their vigour and lovely, tender green,

and fresh flowers slightly resembling the violet, but borne on scapes 6

or 8 inches long, bloom within a few hours of the revivification of the

plant. In moist seasons the plant, true to its hygrometic character,

continuously blooms, and while it braves the hottest sun on the bare

places of the burning rock as long as its roots find moist spots, it

will also be found in the shade below, where the flowers are richer in

colour, more of purple than mauve, and, rarely, pure white. Generally

the plant depends upon others or cracks or crevices in rock for

foothold. It shares the grasp the spongy moss may take on the slippery

surface, or when the root, thin as whipcord, of a certain fig-tree has

crept across the face of the grey rock forming a ridge or barricade

against which decayed vegetation accumulates, there the BAEA flourishes,

displaying an indeterminate line of mauve flowers above oval, crimpled

leaves. Mauve, green and grey--the mauve of the Victorian age, the green

of the cowslip, the grey of glistering, weathering granite.

The whole of the rock face is a study. Grasping with greedy white talons

a piece of decaying wood is one of the prettiest of the more common

orchids, DENDROBIUM SMILIAE which produces short spikes of waxy flowers,

pink tipped with green; the creeping, sweet-scented, BULBOPHYLLUM

BAILEYI, with greenish-yellow flowers spotted with purple, and the

commonest of the dendrobiums (UNDULATUM) revel here.

The edge of the precipice looks over a tangle of jungle down upon the

top of a giant milkwood tree (ALSTONIA SCHOLARIS), taken possession of

by a colony of metallic starlings, whose hundreds of brown nests hang in

clusters from the topmost branches. By the perpetual shrieks and calls

of these most lively of birds a straight course may be steered through

the gloomy jungle to the tree, and thence to the beach, as a ship gains

her haven through a fog by the sound of unseen warning horns and

bell-surmounted rocks. On the trunk of this great tree may still be seen

the marks of stone tomahawks of the primitive inhabitants of the island.

There is none now to disturb and plunder the hasty birds.

STEALTHY MURDERERS

The fig-tree which aids the BAEA in its object of beautifying the

precipice is one of a very numerously represented species, which assumes

great variety of form, and produces fruit of varying quality. This

particular variety (FICUS CUNNINGHAMII) begins life as a parasite. A

thin slender shoot, tremulously weak, leans lightly on the base of some

tall tree, and finding agreeable conditions, clings and grows. A

harmless, tender, thong-like shoot it is--a helpless plant, that could

not stand alone or exist but for the hospitality of another of strength

and substance. Soon a second shoot, slight and frail, emerges near the

root, but at a different angle from its aspiring brother, and others as

delicate as the first follow, until the trunk of the host is sprawled

over by naked running shoots, grey-green in colour, crafty and

insidious. As they increase in age the shoots flatten on the under

surface and cross and recross. Wheresoever they touch they coalesce. The

trunk becomes enveloped in living lace--in a network, rather, living,

ever growing and irregular--the meshes of which gradually decrease in

dimension. All the while squeezing and causing decay, the meshes close

up. The trunk of the host is completely enclosed; it is the dying core

of a living cylinder, for the first shoots have long since crept up

among the branches, have expanded their leaves, and are busy sapping the

life-blood of the tree at all points. A greedy intractable, implacable

foe, it gives no quarter, but flourishes upon its dead or dying friend,

upon which in its youth it leaned delicately for support. Finally it

weaves its slender shoots among the topmost leaves of its victim, and

having outgrown its growth, flourishes on its decay.

This vegetable usurper produces immense crops of small purple figs, the

favourite food of many birds. So bountiful are its crops, and so much

are they appreciated, that one perceives, almost without reflection, its

due and proper place in the harmony of nature. To complete the cycle,

birds frequently, after eating the fruit, "strop" their beaks on the

bark of a neighbouring tree. Now and again a seed thus finds favourable

conditions for its germination, and then the parasite sends exploring

roots to the ground, forming as they descend intricate lace-work, while

shoots repeat a similar process as they climb further up the trunk and

among the branches. Then the fate of the host seems less cruel, for the

end is speedier.

Delicious fruit is produced by a somewhat similar fig (VALIDINERVIS)

growing in the locality and displaying, though not in such a cruel

manner, parasitical tendencies. Passing from green to orange with deep

red spots to rich purple, the fruit--about the size of an average

grape--indicates arrival at maturity by the exudation of a drop of nectar.

Clear as crystal, the nectar partially solidifies. Fragrant and

luscious, pendant from the polished fruit, this exuberant insignia of

perfection, this glittering drop of vital essence, attracts birds of all

degree. It is a liqueur that none can resist, and which seems, so noisy

and demonstrative do they all become, to have a highly exhilarating

effect on their nerves. Birds ordinarily mute are vociferous, and the

rowdy ones--the varied honey-eater as an example--losing all control of

their tongues, call and whistle in ecstasy. The best of the fig-tree's

life is given for the intoxication of unreflecting birds.

TREE GROG

Few of the forest trees are more picturesque than the paper-bark or

tea-tree (MELALEUCA LEUCADENDRON), the "Tee-doo" of the blacks. It is

of free and stately growth, the bark white, compacted of numerous sheets

as thin as tissue paper. When a great wind stripped the superficial

layers, exposing the reddish-brown epidermis, the whole foreground was

transfigured. All during the night alone in the house, I heard the great

trees complaining against the molestation of the wind, groaning in

strife and fright; but little had I thought that the violation they had

endured had been so coarse and lawless. The chaste trees had been

incontinently stripped of their decent white vestiture, leaving their

limbs naked and bare. In the daylight they still moaned, throwing their

almost leafless branches about despairingly, their flesh-tints--dingy

red--giving to the scene a strangely unfamiliar glow. This outrage was

one of the most uncivil of the wrong-doings of the storm wind "Leonta."

But within a week or so the trees assumed whiter than ever robes; pure

and stainless, the breeze had merely removed soiled linen. The picture

had been restored by the most ideal of all artists.

The blossoms of the melaleuca come in superabundance, pale yellow

spikes, odorous to excess. When the trees thus adorn themselves--and they

do so twice in the year in changeless fashion, in the fulness of the wet

season--the air is saturated with the odour as of treacle slightly

burnt. The island reeks of a vast sugar factory or distillery. Sips of

the balsamic syrup are free to all, and birds and insects rejoice and

are glad. A perpetual murmur and hum of satisfaction and industry haunt

the neighbourhood of the trees as accompaniment to the varied notes of

excitable birds. Chemists say that insects imprisoned in an atmosphere

of melaleuca oil become intoxicated. Insects and birds certainly are

boldly familiar and hilarious during the time that the trees offer their

feast of spiced honey.

Every tree is a fair, and all behave accordingly, chirping and

whistling, humming and buzzing, flitting and fluttering, in the

unrestrained gaiety of holiday and feast-day humour. Always an

impertinent, interfering rascal, the spangled drongo, under the

exhilarating influence of melaleuca nectar, degenerates into a

blusterer. He could not under any circumstances be a larrikin; but the

grateful stimulant affects his naturally high spirits, and he is more

frolicsome and boisterous than ever. The path between the coco-nuts to

the beach passes close to two of the biggest trees, and from each as I

strolled along, one sublime morning when the whole world was drenched

with whiffs, strong, sweet and spirity, a drongo, flushed with

excitement, flew down, bidding me begone in language that I am fully

persuaded was meant to provoke a breach of the peace. The saucy bullies,

the half-tipsy roysterers, tired of domineering over every participator

of the feast, dared to publicly flout me, defiantly sweeping with their

tails the air, as an Irishman, "blue mouldy for want of a bateing,"

sweeps the floor with his coat, and chattered and scolded in every tone

of elated bravado. The bibacious drongo can be as demure as any. When he

comes to dart among the eddying insects, glorying in the first cool

gleams of the sunshine, he will take his ease on a mango branch, make

jerky bows and flick the fine feathers of his tail, and "cheep" in

timorous accents. He is sober then, quite parsonified in demeanour; his

speech "all in the set phrase of peace," and would be scandalised by the

mere mention of melaleuca nectar.

A professor of physiology asserts that rabbits are very curious when

under the influence of liquor, and that a drunken kangaroo is brutally

aggressive. The drongo is merely pugnacious and noisy. Having heard of

the melancholy effects of over-indulgence in melaleuca nectar, I was not

at all disposed to judge of the misbehaviour harshly or to take personal

offence; for the drongo is a respectable bird, and the opportunities for

excess come but twice a year. Are not the tenses of intoxication

infinite?

This is not a prohibition district, and if the happy, unreflective bird

chooses to partake even to excess of the free offering of Nature, the

quintessence of the flowers of the tree distilled by sunshine, why

should not he? Am I the only one to be "recompensed by the sweetness

and satisfaction of this retreat"?

When the melaleuca blossoms, bees seem to work with quite feverish

haste; but the honey gained is dark in colour and has a certain pungent,

almost acid, flavour. Holding a frame of comb to the light, you see the

clear gold of the bloodwood and the tawny tints of the melaleuca as

erratically defined as geographical distinctions in a tinted map. Bees

keep it apart to indulge in it, peradventure, at revolutionary epochs.

Italian bees are docile, at least less pugnacious than other species.

Does not the dark spirituous honey inspire them with that degree of

courage which we English call Dutch?

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