Next in importance is Tower Grove Park, an oblong of 276 acres. This and

Shaw’s Garden, adjoining, have been given to the city by Mr. Henry Shaw,

an Englishman who made his fortune in the city, and they remain under

his control as to care and adornment during his life. Those who have

never seen foreign parks and pleasure-gardens can obtain a very good

idea of their formal elegance and impressiveness by visiting Tower Grove

Park and the Botanical Gardens. They will see the perfection of lawns,

avenues ornamented by statuary, flower-beds, and tasteful walks. The

entrances, with stone towers and lodges, suggest similar effects in

France and in England. About the music-stand are white marble busts of

six chief musical composers. The drives are adorned with three statues

in bronze, thirty feet high, designed and cast in Munich by Frederick

Millier. They are figures of Shakespeare, Humboldt, and Columbus, and so

nobly conceived and executed that the patriotic American must wish they

had been done in this country. Of Shaw’s Botanical Garden I need to say

little, for its fame as a comprehensive and classified collection

of trees, plants, and flowers is world-wide. It has no equal in this

country. As a place for botanical study no one appreciated it

more highly than the late Professor Asa Gray. Sometimes a peculiar

classification is followed; one locality’ is devoted to economic

plants—camphor, quinine, cotton, tea, coffee, etc.; another to “Plants

of the Bible.” The space of fifty-four acres, enclosed by high stone

walls, contains, besides the open garden and allées and glass houses,

the summer residence and the tomb of Mr. Shaw. This old gentleman, still

vigorous in his eighty-eighth year, is planning new adornments in the

way of statuary and busts of statesmen, poets, and scientists. His plans

are all liberal and cosmopolitan. For over thirty years his botanical

knowledge, his taste, and abundant wealth and leisure have been devoted

to the creation of this wonderful garden and park, which all bear the

stamp of his strong individuality, and of a certain pleasing foreign

formality. What a source of unfailing delight it must have been to him!

As we sat talking with him I thought how other millionaires, if they

knew how, might envy a matured life, after the struggle for a competency

is over, devoted to this most rational enjoyment, in an occupation as

elevating to the taste as to the character, and having in mind always

the public good. Over the entrance gate is the inscription, “Missouri

Botanical Gardens.” When the city has full control of the garden the

word “Missouri” should be replaced by “Shaw.”

The money expended for public parks gives some idea of the liberal and

far-sighted provision for the health and pleasure of a great city. The

parks originally cost the city 81,309,944, and three millions more have

been spent upon their improvement and maintenance. This indicates an

enlightened spirit, which we shall see characterizes the city in other

things, and is evidence of a high degree of culture.

Of the commerce and manufactures of the town I can give no adequate

statement without going into details, which my space forbids. The

importance of the Mississippi River is much emphasized, not only as an

actual highway of traffic, but as a regulator of railway rates. The town

has by the official reports been discriminated against, and even the

Inter-State Act has not afforded all the relief expected. In 1887

the city shipped to foreign markets by way of the Mississippi and the

jetties 3,973,000 bushels of wheat and 7,365,000 bushels of corn—a

larger exportation than ever before except in the years 1880 and 1881.

An outlet like this is of course a check on railway charges. The trade

of the place employs a banking capital of fifteen millions. The deposits

in 1887 were thirty-seven millions; the clearings over 8894,527,731—the

largest ever reached, and over ten per cent, in excess of the clearings

of 1886. To whatever departments I turn in the report of the Merchants’

Exchange for 1887 I find a vigorous growth—as in building—and in

most articles of commerce a great increase. It appears by the tonnage

statements that, taking receipts and shipments together, 12,060,995 tons

of freight were handled in and out during 1886, against 14,359,059 tons

in 1887—a gain of nineteen and a half per cent. The buildings in 1886

cost $7,030,819; in 1887, $8,162,914. There were $44,740 more stamps

sold at the post-office in 1887 than in 1886. The custom-house

collections were less than in 1886, but reached the figures of

$1,414,747. The assessed value of real and personal property in 1887 was

$217,142,320, on which the rate of taxation in the old city limits was

$2.50.

It is never my intention in these papers to mention individual

enterprises for their own sake, but I do not hesitate to do so when it

is necessary in order to illustrate some peculiar development. It is a

curious matter of observation that so many Western cities have one or

more specialties in which they excel—houses of trade or manufacture

larger and more important than can be found elsewhere. St. Louis finds

itself in this category in regard to several establishments. One of

these is a wooden-ware company, the largest of the sort in the country,

a house which gathers its peculiar goods from all over the United

States, and distributes them almost as widely—a business of gigantic

proportions and bewildering detail. Its annual sales amount to as much

as the sales of all the houses in its line in New York, Chicago, and

Cincinnati together. Another is a hardware company, wholesale and

retail, also the largest of its kind in the country, with sales annually

amounting to six millions of dollars, a very large amount when we

consider that it is made up of an infinite number of small and cheap

articles in iron, from a fish-hook up—indeed, over fifty thousand

separate articles. I spent half a day in this establishment, walking

through its departments, noting the unequalled system of compact

display, classification, and methods of sale and shipment. Merely as

a method of system in business I have never seen anything more

interesting. Another establishment, important on account of its

central position in the continent and its relation to the Louisiana

sugar-fields, is the St. Louis Sugar Refinery.

The refinery proper is the largest building in the Western country

used for manufacturing purposes, and, together with its adjuncts of

cooper-shops and warehouses, covers five entire blocks and employs 500

men. It has a capacity of working up 400 tons of raw sugar a day, but

runs only to the extent of about 200 tons a day, making the value of its

present product $7,500,000 a year.

During the winter and spring it uses Louisiana sugars; the remainder

of the year, sugars of Cuba and the Sandwich Islands. Like all other

refineries of which I have inquired, this reckons the advent of the

Louisiana crop as an important regulator of prices. This establishment,

in common with other industries of the city, has had to complain of

business somewhat hampered by discrimination in railway rates. St. Louis

also has what I suppose, from the figures accessible, to be the largest

lager-beer brewing establishment in the world; its solid, gigantic, and

architecturally imposing buildings lift themselves up like a fortress

over the thirty acres of ground they cover. Its manufacture and sales

in 1887 were 456,511 barrels of beer—an increase of nearly 100,000 since

1885-86. It exports largely to Mexico, South America, the West Indies,

and Australia. The establishment is a marvel of system and ingenious

devices. It employs 1200 laborers, to whom it pays $500,000 a year.

Some of the details are of interest. In the bottling department we saw

workmen filling, corking, labelling, and packing at the rate of 100,000

bottles a day. In a year 25,000,000 bottles are used, packed in 400,000

barrels and boxes. The consumption of barley is 1,100,000 bushels

yearly, and of hops over 700,000 pounds, and the amount of water used

for all purposes is 250,000,000 gallons—nearly enough to float our navy.

The charges for freight received and shipped by rail amount to nearly a

million dollars a year. There are several other large breweries in the

city. The total product manufactured in 1887 was 1,383,301 barrels,

equal to 43,575,872 gallons—more than three times the amount of 1877.

The barley used in the city and vicinity was 2,932,192 bushels, of which

340,335 bushels came from Canada. The direct export of beer during 1887

to foreign countries was equal to 1,924,108 quart bottles. The greater

part of the barley used comes from Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin.

It is useless to enumerate the many railways which touch and affect St.

Louis. The most considerable is the agglomeration known as the Missouri

Pacific, or South-western System, which operated 6994 miles of road on

January 1, 1888. This great aggregate is likely to be much diminished

by the surrender of lines, but the railway facilities of the city are

constantly extending.

There are figures enough to show that St. Louis is a prosperous city,

constantly developing new enterprises with fresh energy; to walk its

handsome streets and drive about its great avenues and parks is

to obtain an impression of a cheerful town on the way to be most

attractive; but its chief distinction lies in its social and

intellectual life, and in the spirit that has made it a pioneer in so

many educational movements. It seems to me a very good place to study

the influence of speculative thought in economic and practical affairs.

The question I am oftenest asked is, whether the little knot of

speculative philosophers accidentally gathered there a few years

ago, and who gave a sort of fame to the city, have had any permanent

influence. For years they discussed abstractions; they sustained for

some time a very remarkable periodical of speculative philosophy, and

in a limited sphere they maintained an elevated tone of thought and life

quite in contrast with our general materialism. The circle is broken,

the members are scattered. Probably the town never understood them,

perhaps they did not altogether understand each other, and maybe the

tremendous conflict of Kant and Hegel settled nothing. But if there is

anything that can be demonstrated in this world it is the influence of

abstract thought upon practical affairs in the long-run. And although

one may not be able to point to any definite thing created or

established by this metaphysical movement, I think I can see that it was

a leaven that had a marked effect in the social, and especially in the

educational, life of the town, and liberalized minds, and opened the way

for the trial of theories in education. One of the disciples declares

that the State Constitution of Missouri and the charter of St. Louis are

distinctly Hegelian. However this may be, both these organic laws are

uncommonly wise in their provisions. A study of the evolution of the

city government is one of the most interesting that the student can

make. Many of the provisions of the charter are admirable, such as those

securing honest elections, furnishing financial checks, and guarding

against public debt. The mayor is elected for four years, and the

important offices filled by his appointment are not vacant until the

beginning of the third year of his appointment, so that hope of reward

for political work is too dim to affect the merits of an election. The

composition and election of the school board is also worthy of notice.

Of the twenty-one members, seven are elected on a general ticket,

and the remaining fourteen by districts, made by consolidating the

twenty-eight city wards, members to serve four years, divided into two

classes. This arrangement secures immunity from the ward politician.

St. Louis is famous for its public schools, and especially for the

enlightened methods, and the willingness to experiment in improving

them. The school expenditures for the year ending June 30, 1887, were

$1,095,773; the school property in lots, buildings, and furniture in

1885 was estimated at $3,445,254. The total number of pupils enrolled

was 56,936. These required about 1200 teachers, of whom over a thousand

were women. The actual average of pupils to each teacher was about

42. There were 106 school buildings, with a seating capacity for about

50,000 scholars. Of the district schools 13 were colored, in which were

employed 78 colored teachers. The salaries of teachers are progressive,

according to length of service. As for instance, the principal of the

High-school has $2400 the first year, $2500 the second, $2600 the third,

$2750 the fourth; a head assistant in a district school, $650 the first

year, $700 the second, $750 the third, $800 the fourth, $850 the fifth.

The few schools that I saw fully sustained their public reputation as

to methods, discipline, and attainments. The Normal School, of

something over 100 pupils, nearly all the girls being graduates of

the High-school, was admirable in drill, in literary training, in

calisthenic exercises. The High-school is also admirable, a school with

a thoroughly elevated tone and an able principal. Of the 600 pupils at

least two-thirds were girls. From appearances I should judge that it is

attended by children of the most intelligent families, for certainly

the girls of the junior and senior classes, in manner, looks, dress,

and attainments, compared favorably with those of one of the best girls’

schools I have seen anywhere, the Mary Institute, which is a department

of the Washington University. This fact is most important, for the

excellence of our public schools (for the product of good men and women)

depends largely upon their popularity with the well-to-do classes. One

of the most interesting schools I saw was the Jefferson, presided over

by a woman, having fine fire-proof buildings and 1100 pupils, nearly all

whom are of foreign parentage—German, Russian, and Italian, with many

Hebrews also—a finely ordered, wide-awake school of eight grades. The

kindergarten here was the best I saw; good teachers, bright and happy

little children, with natural manners, throwing themselves gracefully

into their games with enjoyment and without self-consciousness, and

exhibiting exceedingly pretty fancy and kindergarten work. In St.

Louis the kindergarten is a part of the public-school system, and the

experiment is one of general interest. The question cannot be called

settled. In the first place the experiment is hampered in St. Louis by

a decision of the Supreme Court that the public money cannot be used for

children out of the school age, that is, under six and over twenty. This

prevents teaching English to adult foreigners in the evening schools,

and, rigidly applied, it shuts out pupils from the kindergarten under

six. One advantage from the kindergarten was expected to be an extension

of the school period; and there is no doubt that the kindergarten

instruction ought to begin before the age of six, especially for the

mass of children who miss home training and home care. As a matter

of fact, many of the children I saw in the kindergartens were only

constructively six years old. It cannot be said, also, that the Froebel

system is fully understood or accepted. In my observation, the success

of the kindergarten depends entirely upon the teacher; where she is

competent, fully believes in and understands the Froebel system, and is

enthusiastic, the pupils are interested and alert; otherwise they are

listless, and fail to get the benefit of it. The Froebel system is the

developing the concrete idea in education, and in the opinion of his

disciples this is as important for children of the intelligent

and well-to-do as for those of the poor and ignorant. They resist,

therefore, the attempt which is constantly made, to introduce the

primary work into the kindergarten. But for the six years’ limit the

kindergarten in St. Louis would have a better chance in its connection

with the public schools. As the majority of children leave school for

work at the age of twelve or fourteen, there is little time enough

given for book education; many educators think time is wasted in the

kindergarten, and they advocate the introduction of what they call

kindergarten features in the primary classes. This is called by the

disciples of Froebel an entire abandonment of his system. I should like

to see the kindergarten in connection with the public school tried long

enough to demonstrate all that is claimed for it in its influence on

mental development, character, and manners, but it seems unlikely to

be done in St. Louis, unless the public-school year begins at least as

early as five, or, better still, is specially unlimited for kindergarten

pupils.

Except in the primary work in drawing and modelling, there is no manual

training feature in the St. Louis public schools. The teaching of German

is recently dropped from all the district schools (though retained in

the High), in accordance with the well-founded idea of Americanizing our

foreign population as rapidly as possible.

One of the most important institutions in the Mississippi Valley, and

one that exercises a decided influence upon the intellectual and social

life of St. Louis, and is a fair measure of its culture and the value

of the higher education, is the Washington University, which was

incorporated in 1853, and was presided over until his death, in 1887,

by the late Chancellor William Green-leaf Eliot, of revered memory.

It covers the whole range of university studies, except theology,

and allows no instruction either sectarian in religion or partisan in

politics, nor the application of any sectarian or party test in the

election of professors, teachers, or officers. Its real estate and

buildings in use for educational purposes cost $625,000; its libraries,

scientific apparatus, casts, and machinery cost over $100,000, and it

has investments for revenue amounting to over $650,000. The University

comprehends an undergraduate department, including the college (a

thorough classical, literary, and philosophical course, with about sixty

students), open to women, and the polytechnic, an admirably equipped

school of science; the St. Louis Law School, of excellent reputation;

the Manual Training School, the most celebrated school of this sort, and

one that has furnished more manual training teachers than any other;

the Henry Shaw School of Botany; the St. Louis School of Fine Arts; the

Smith Academy, for boys; and the Mary Institute, one of the roomiest and

most cheerful school buildings I know, where 400 girls, whose collective

appearance need not fear comparison with any in the country, enjoy the

best educational advantages. Mary Institute is justly the pride of the

city.

The School of Botany, which is endowed and has its own laboratory,

workshop, and working library, was, of course, the outgrowth of the Shaw

Botanical Garden; it has usually from twenty to thirty special students.

The School of Fine Arts, which was reorganized under the University

in 1879, has enrolled over 200 students, and gives a wide and careful

training in all the departments of drawing, painting, and modelling,

with instructions in anatomy, perspective, and composition, and has life

classes for both sexes, in drawing from draped and nude figures. Its

lecture, working rooms, and galleries of paintings and casts are in

its Crow Art Museum—a beautiful building, well planned and justly

distinguished for architectural excellence. It ranks among the best Art

buildings in the country.

The Manual Training School has been in operation since 1880. It may be

called the most fully developed pioneer institution of the sort. I spent

some time in its workshops and schools, thinking of the very interesting

question at the bottom of the experiment, namely, the mental development

involved in the training of the hand and the eye, and the reflex help to

manual skill in the purely intellectual training of study. It is, it may

be said again, not the purpose of the modern manual training to teach

a trade, but to teach the use of tools as an aid in the symmetrical

development of the human being. The students here certainly do beautiful

work in wood-turning and simple carving, in ironwork and forging. They

enjoy the work; they are alert and interested in it. I am certain that

they are the more interested in it in seeing how they can work out and

apply what they have learned in books, and I doubt not they take hold of

literary study more freshly for this manual training in exactness. The

school exacts close and thoughtful study with tools as well as in books,

and I can believe that it gives dignity in the opinion of the working

student to hand labor. The school is large, its graduates have been

generally successful in practical pursuits and in teaching, and it lias

demonstrated in itself the correctness of the theory of its authors,

that intellectual drill and manual training are mutually advantageous

together. Whether manual training shall be a part of all district school

education is a question involving many considerations that do not enter

into the practicability of this school, but I have no doubt that manual

training schools of this sort would be immensely useful in every city.

There are many boys in every community who cannot in any other wayr be

awakened to any real study. This training school deserves a chapter

by itself, and as I have no space for details, I take the liberty of

referring those interested to a volume on its aims and methods by Dr. C.

M. Woodward, its director.

Notwithstanding the excellence of the public-school system of St. Louis,

there is no other city in the country, except New Orleans, where so

large a proportion of the youths are being educated outside the public

schools. A very considerable portion of the population is Catholic.

There are forty-four parochial schools, attended by nineteen thousand

pupils, and over a dozen different Sisterhoods are engaged in teaching

in them. Generally each parochial school has two departments—one for

boys and one for girls. They are sustained entirely by the parishes. In

these schools, as in the two Catholic universities, the prominence of

ethical and religious training is to be noted. Seven-eighths of the

schools are in charge of thoroughly trained religious teachers. Many of

the boys’ schools are taught by Christian Brothers. The girls are almost

invariably taught by members of religious Sisterhoods. In most of the

German schools the girls and smaller boys are taught by Sisters, the

larger boys by lay teachers. Some reports of school attendance are given

in the Catholic Directory: SS. Peter and Paul’s (German), 1300 pupils;

St. Joseph’s (German), 957; St. Bridget’s, 950; St. Malaehy’s, 756; St.

John’s, 700; St. Patrick’s, 700. There is a school for colored children

of 150 pupils taught by colored Sisters.

In addition to these parochial schools there are a dozen academies

and convents of higher education for young ladies, all under charge of

Catholic Sisterhoods, commonly with a mixed attendance of boarders

and day scholars, and some of them with a reputation for learning that

attracts pupils from other States, notably the Academy of the Sacred

Heart, St. Joseph’s Academy, and the Academy of the Visitation, in

charge of cloistered nuns of that order. Besides these, in connection

with various reformatory and charitable institutions, such as the House

of the Good Shepherd and St. Mary’s Orphan Asylum, there are industrial

schools in charge of the Sisterhoods, where girls receive, in addition

to their education, training in some industry to maintain themselves

respectably when they leave their temporary homes. Statistics are

wanting, but it will be readily inferred from these statements that

there are in the city a great number of single women devoted for life,

and by special religious and intellectual training, to the office of

teaching.

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