Roques, the French mycologist, says of the _Hydnum repandum_: "The
general use of this fungus throughout France, Italy, and Germany leaves
no room for doubt as to its good qualities." But very little has been
said of its companion species, the _H. caput-medusæ_, described in the
foregoing pages, and which is certainly greatly its superior in texture
and flavor. Dr. Harkness considers it one of the most delicious morsels
among the whole fungus tribe.
Both species, containing naturally less moisture than most mushrooms,
are easily dried. When fresh they should be soaked in water and cooked
slowly at low temperature and frequently basted, the dried specimens
being first soaked in tepid water until their original form and pulpy
consistency are nearly regained.
In a purée the Hydnum makes an appetizing dish, with a slight flavor of
oysters.
Roques recommends the following recipe for a stew: "Cut the mushrooms
into pieces and let them steep in warm water for twenty minutes. Then
allow them to simmer for an hour in a pan with butter, pepper, salt,
and parsley, with the addition of beef or other gravy."
Mrs. Hussey recommends stewing in brown or white sauce; in the latter
case it will closely suggest "oyster sauce."
Another mushroom--the _Lactarius deliciosus_--stewed in a similar
manner closely suggests the flavor of lambs' kidneys.