[Illustration: HYDNUM CAPUT-MEDUSÆ.]
[Illustration: PLATE XXIX.--HYDNUM CAPUT-MEDUSÆ]
[Sidenote: =Haunt and description=]
This species (Plate 28) cannot be confounded with any other; it is of
a dark creamy color, and usually grows sidewise upon dead beech wood
(Plate 29), sometimes in great profusion, especially in the summer. The
soft spines entirely cover the rounded branching protuberances of the
fungus. The upper teeth are short and form a sort of "crown," falling
from which the more and more elongated spines are firmly pendent
beneath, somewhat suggesting as many heads of tiny skye-terriers in
crowded convocation--or a tiny bleached "hedgehog," if you choose.
A fungus bearing such conspicuous characteristics may be gathered and
eaten without fear, assuming the specimen to be fresh and free from
grubs. It will be found an aromatic and savory morsel, though simply
fried in butter and served on toast.
[Sidenote: =Moss-mushroom=]
One other species may be mentioned briefly, the _H. coralloides_, or
Moss-mushroom, which is unfamiliar to the writer, but which Curtis
includes among his edible fungi. It may be found growing sidewise
"on old trunks of living trees," _at first white_, then yellowish,
resembling when young the _chou-fleur_ (cauliflower). From its base,
which is tender and fleshy, spring a large number of flexible branches,
interlaced and assembled in tufts, bearing upon the summit of each of
their divisions an expansion of long points or projections, at first
straight, then pendent, and even curved under, and terminating in
layers. Cordier says that it is "delicate food."
Professor Peck speaks enthusiastically of this species. "It is found
in woods, especially in hilly and mountainous districts, and occurs
during rainy or showery weather from August to October. It is a pretty
fungus, and very attractive to those who are neither botanists nor
fungus eaters, and it is as good as it is beautiful. In our botanical
expeditions in the vast wilderness of the Adirondack region, we were
often obliged to camp in the woods several nights in succession. On
such occasions this fungus sometimes formed a luxurious addition to our
ordinarily simple and sometimes limited bill of fare."
[Sidenote: =Hydnum in the kitchen=]
The Hydnei may be cooked in the same manner as employed for the
ordinary mushroom, or gathered and dried for winter use, a very common
custom on the Continent. Owing to the somewhat firm, compact substance
of these mushrooms they should be cooked _slowly_, in order to preserve
their tenderness. Berkeley recommends that they be "previously" steeped
in hot water. Badham especially favors the Hydnum stew, which he claims
is "an excellent dish with a flavor of oysters." According to the same
authority it yields also a "very good purée." The "oyster" flavor is
recognized in many of the epicurean encomiums on this species. Various
hints as to its culinary treatment will be found in a later chapter.