[Illustration: CANTHARELLUS CIBARIUS.]
[Sidenote: =Botanical characters=]
A fungus thus formed is a Chantarelle, or _Cantharellus_, and
is readily identified. Any specimen having these features, and
which possesses in addition a fine, rich yellow color, is the
_C. cibarius_ of our plate, the esculent morsel so highly prized
by epicures on the Continent, where to many--perhaps somewhat
indiscriminating--gastronomists it forms one of the greatest delicacies
among the entire list of edible fungi. The diameter of the mature
specimen may reach five inches, though three inches will be nearer
the average size. The cap is frequently quite eccentric in its form,
wavy-edged, or even folded upon itself in occasional individuals; but
the pure, deep yellow color "suggesting the yolk of an egg," and the
swollen, vein-like hymenium, generally of a similar color, will be
sufficient to distinguish it under any disguise of mere form. Another
unique characteristic is its odor, which suggests ripe apricots or
plums. The taste of the Chantarelle when raw is pungent and peppery,
but this quality disappears in cooking. The spores are of a pale
yellow-ochre color, and beneath the microscope are elliptical in shape.
[Sidenote: =Stewed Chantarelle=]
From the last of May until early November the Chantarelle may be found
in our woods, with more or less frequency, singly or in clusters.
According to Dr. Badham, an eminent authority on esculent fungi, "the
best ways of dressing the Chantarelle are to stew or mince it by
itself, or to combine it with meat or with other fungi. It requires
long and gentle stewing to make it tender, but by soaking it in milk
the night before, less cooking will be requisite."
But the recipes employed in Great Britain and upon the Continent to
the glory of the Chantarelle would almost fill a fair-sized receipt
book, and some of them are quite elaborate. A few of these are given
in a later chapter. After a trial of a number of them the writer is
assured that the simple broiling or frying in butter or oil, with
proper seasoning, and serving on toast, will prove a most acceptable
substitute.
[Sidenote: =Another species=]
Another species of Chantarelle, which might possibly be confounded
with the _C. cibarius_, is the Orange Chantarelle, _C. aurantiacus_,
which is pronounced "scarcely esculent" by the authorities. Its average
size is much smaller than the true Chantarelle, and its much deeper
orange hue, and straighter, more regularly branched and crowded gills,
will readily identify it, the gills of _cibarius_ being thicker,
and usually somewhat eccentric and netted. Like the foregoing, it
assumes the funnel form with age, as indicated in the generic name,
Cantharellus--"a diminutive drinking-cup."
[Illustration]
[Illustration: _Polyporei or Tube-bearing Fungi_]