_Russula heterophylla_
[Sidenote: =Botanical characters=]
Growing in company with both of the above is frequently to
be seen another species, which is somewhat protean in its
accomplishments of color, but which in the character of its gills,
as implied in its scientific name, gives us a ready means of
identification--_heterophylla_--various-leaved (Pl. 12, figs. 1 and
5). In the previous examples of Russulæ the gills have been commonly
straight, continuous from stem to edge of cap, or more rarely forked
and continuous in the bifurcation. In the present species we have both
of these conditions, combined also with what are called _dimidiate_
gills, or _shorter_ leaflets, which reach, perhaps, only half-way from
rim to stem, all crowded together and alternating. The color of the cap
is very variable--occasionally pinkish-ash color or dull pinkish-gray
inclining to green or olive or even red. Its surface is smoother than
in the foregoing species, being almost polished, and the pellicle of
the cap is usually noticeably thinner. Having found such a specimen,
possessing also all the other attributes of shape, firmness of flesh,
and dry brittleness of gills, if tasted and found sweet in flavor it
may be eaten without the slightest fear, and like its congeners will
be found a delicious morsel, whether nibbled raw, as the squirrels are
so fond of doing, or served hot on toast as an entrée, or otherwise
prepared according to taste.
[Sidenote: =Delicious broiled Russula=]
Various methods prevail in the culinary preparation of the Russula
mushroom, many of which are suggested among the receipts in another
chapter, but broiling is perhaps the most simple and generally
satisfactory. Having thoroughly cleaned the top, or, if desired, peeled
the cuticle, place the mushrooms on a gridiron over a hot fire, gills
downward, for a few moments, sufficient to allow them to be heated
through without scorching. Then reverse them and repeat the process,
melting a small piece of butter in the gills and salting and peppering
to taste; serve hot on toast or in the platter with roast beef or fowl.
They are also delicious fried in the ordinary way, either with or
without batter.
[Illustration: AN INFESTED SPECIMEN]
The Russula is particularly in favor among the fungus-eating insects,
whose rapid development and voracity are consistently related to the
ephemeral nature of their food. A Russula specimen showing barely
a trace of insect life when gathered will sometimes prove literally
honey-combed and totally unfit for food in the space of twenty-four
hours. It is therefore well to cut each specimen in sections before
venturing upon its preparation for the table, and to profit thereby
according to our individual fastidiousness, as suggested on page 37.
While the above esculent species of Russulæ are being familiarized
by the tyro, he must now be put on guard against a certain dangerous
species of the group, which is sure to claim his attention, being
especially fond of the good company of its cousins, and likely to do
some mischief through its frequent disguise.