CHAPTER IV

MISCELLANEOUS MEASURING TOOLS AND GAGES

Among the miscellaneous measuring tools and gages dealt with in this

chapter are tools and gages for measuring and comparing tapers, adjustable

gages, radius gages, gages for grinding drills, sensitive gages, tools for

gaging taper threaded holes, contour gages, etc. Of course, these are

offered merely as examples of what can be done in the line of measuring

tools for different purposes, and, while having a distinct and direct value

to the mechanic, they also have a great indirect value, because they

furnish suggestions for the designing and making of tools for similar

purposes.

Tool for Measuring Tapers

[Illustration: Fig. 45. Taper Measuring Tool]

Fig. 45 shows a tool which has proved very useful. It is a tool for

measuring tapers on dowel pins, reamers, drill shanks, or anything to be

tapered. Most machinists know that to find the taper of a shank they must

use their calipers for one end and reset them for the other end; or else

caliper two places, say, three inches apart, and if, for instance, the

difference should be 1/16 inch, they must multiply this difference by four

to get the taper per foot. With the tool above mentioned, all this trouble

in calipering and figuring is saved. Simply place the shank or reamer to be

measured between pins _A_, _B_, _C_, and _D_, and slide _H_ and _K_

together. Then the taper can be read at once on the graduated scale at _L_.

The construction of the tool will be readily understood. The body or base

_F_ has a cross piece supporting the two pins _A_ and _B_. On this slides

piece _K_, which has at its right end the graduated segment. The screw _G_

is fast to piece _K_, and upon it swivels the pointer _E_, which carries

the two pins _C_ and _D_. Thus these two pins can be brought into contact

with a tapered piece of any diameter within the capacity of the tool, and

the swivel screw _G_ allows the pins to adjust themselves to the taper of

the work and the pointer _E_ to move to the left or right, showing

instantly the taper per foot.

As the pins _A_ and _B_ are 1½ inch apart, which is 1/8 of a foot, and the

distance from _G_ to _L_ is 4½ inches, which is three times longer than the

distance between _A_ and _B_, the graduations should be 3/64 inch apart, in

order to indicate the taper per foot in eighths of an inch.[23]

Taper Gage

[Illustration: Fig. 46. Handy Taper Gage]

A handy taper gage is shown in Fig. 46. The blades of the gage are made of

tool steel. The edge of the blade _A_ is V-shaped, and the blade _B_ has a

V-groove to correspond. The end of _B_ is offset so as to make the joint

and allow the two blades to be in the same plane. A strong screw and nut

are provided to hold the blades at any setting. The user of this gage looks

under the edge of _A_, and is thereby enabled to tell whether the taper

coincides with that set by the gage, and also where a taper piece needs

touching up to make it true.[24]

Test Gage for Maintaining Standard Tapers

[Illustration: Fig. 47. Test Gage for Maintaining Standard Tapers]

In steam injector work, accurately ground reamers of unusual tapers are

commonly required, and the gage shown in Fig. 47 was designed to maintain

the prevailing standard. It consists of a graduated bar, 1 inch square,

with the slot _F_ running its entire length. The stationary head _A_ is

secured in position flush with the end of the bar, and the sliding head _B_

is fitted with a tongue which guides it in the slot. This head may be

secured in any desired position by means of a knurled thumb nut. The

bushings _D_ and _D'_ are made of tool steel, hardened and ground to a

knife edge on the inside flush with the face. All bushings are made

interchangeable as to outside diameter.

The head _B_ is fitted with an indicating edge _E_ which is set flush with

the knife edge of the bushing. The reading indicates to 0.010 inch the

distance the bushings are from each other, and the difference in their

diameter being known, it is easy to compute the taper. With this gage it is

possible to maintain the standard tapers perfectly correct, each reamer

being marked with the reading as shown by the scale.[25]

Inside and Outside Adjustable Gages

[Illustration: Fig. 48. Adjustable Gage for Inside and Outside

Measurements]

Fig. 48 shows an inside and an outside adjustable gage for accurate work,

used in laying out drill jigs, and in setting tools on lathes, shapers,

planers, and milling machines. The outside gage is shown in the side view

and in the sectional end view marked _Y_. At _X_ in the same figure is a

sectional end view showing how the gage is constructed for inside work. The

top and bottom edges are rounded, so that the diameters of holes may be

easily measured.

The gage consists of a stepped block _B_, mounted so as to slide upon the

inclined edge of the block _C_. There are V-ways upon the upper edge of the

latter, and the block _B_ is split and arranged to clamp over the ways by

the screw shown at _S_. All parts of the gage are hardened and the faces of

the steps marked _A_, are ground and finished so that at any position of

the slide they are parallel to the base of the block _C_. The lower split

portion of the block is spring-tempered to prevent breaking under the

action of the screw, and also to cause it to spring open when loosened. The

gage has the advantage that it can be quickly adjusted to any size within

its limits, which does away with using blocks. In planing a piece to a

given thickness, the gage may be set to that height with great accuracy by

means of a micrometer caliper, and then the planer or shaper tool adjusted

down to the gage. This method does away with the "cut-and-try" process, and

will bring the finishing cut within 0.001 inch of the required size. If the

piece being planed, or the opening to be measured, is larger than the

extreme limit of the gage, parallels may be used. In fitting bushings into

bushing holes, the adjustable gage may be moved out to fit the hole, and

then, when the bushing is finished to the diameter given by the gage, as

determined by a micrometer caliper, a driving fit is ensured.[26]

Radius Gage

[Illustration: Fig. 49. Radius Gage]

Fig. 49 shows a radius gage which has proved to be very handy for all such

work as rounding corners or grinding tools to a given radius. The blades

are of thin steel, and are fastened together at the end by a rivet, thus

forming a tool similar to the familiar screw pitch gage. The right-hand

corner of each blade is rounded off to the given radius, while the

left-hand corner is cut away to the same radius, thus providing an

instrument to be used for either convex or concave surfaces. The radius to

which each blade is shaped is plainly stamped upon the side.[27]

Gage for Grinding Drills

[Illustration: Fig. 50. Gage for Grinding Drills]

Fig. 50 shows a gage for use in grinding drills, which has been found very

handy and accurate. This gage enables either a large or small drill to lie

solidly in the groove provided for it on top of the gage, and the lips can

then be tested for their truth in width, or angle, much easier and quicker

than with the gages in common use without the groove. There is a line, to

set the blade _B_ by, on the stock at an angle of 59 degrees at the top of

the graduated blade, and the user can easily make other lines, if needed

for special work. The blade is clamped in position by the knurled nut _N_

at the back, and can be thus adjusted to any angle. The stock _A_ is cut

away where the blade is pivoted on, so that one side of the blade comes

directly in line with the middle of the groove.[28]

Tool for Gaging Taper Threaded Holes

[Illustration: Fig. 51. Tool for Gaging Taper Threaded Holes]

The tool shown in Fig. 51 is used for gaging taper threaded holes in

boilers when fitting studs. It is a simple, though very useful and

economical tool, and it will doubtless be appreciated by those having much

work of this kind to do. The hole in which the stud is to be fitted is

calipered by filling the threads of the plug with chalk, and then screwing

the plug in the hole. When the plug is removed the chalk will show exactly

the largest diameter of the hole.[29]

Contour Gage

[Illustration: Fig. 52. Setting Contour Gage to Turned Sample]

[Illustration: Fig. 53. End View of Contour Gage]

Figs. 52, 53 and 54 illustrate a special tool which will be found of great

value in certain classes of work. The need of some such device becomes

apparent when patterns and core boxes are required to be accurately checked

with the drawings of brass specialties, in particular. The tool is applied

to the work, and the wires pressed down onto the contour by using the side

of a lead pencil. Of course, patterns parted on the center could have their

halves laid directly on the drawing without using the contour gage, but

some patterns are cored and inseparable. Such a tool proves a relentless

check upon the patternmaker, who, by making the patterns larger than

necessary, can cause a considerable loss in a business where thousands of

casts are made yearly from the same patterns. As a ready and universal

templet it is very useful.[30]

[Illustration: Fig. 54. Testing Core-box with Gage]

Testing a Lead-screw

[Illustration: Fig. 55. Micrometer for Testing Lathe Lead-screw]

A reliable way for testing the pitch of a lead-screw, at any position of

its length, is to procure a micrometer screw and barrel complete, such as

can be purchased from any of the manufacturers of accurate measuring

instruments, and bore out a holder so that the axis of the micrometer screw

will be parallel to the holder when the screw is in place, as shown in Fig.

55. With the lathe geared for any selected pitch, the nut engaged with the

lead-screw, and all backlash of screw, gears, etc., properly taken up,

clamp the micrometer holder to the lathe bed, as shown in Fig. 56, so that

the body of the holder is parallel to the carriage. Adjust the micrometer

to one inch when the point of the screw bears against the carriage and with

a surface gage scribe a line on the outer edge of the faceplate. Now rotate

the lathe spindle any number of full revolutions that are required to cause

the carriage to travel over the portion of the lead-screw that is being

tested, bringing the line on the faceplate to the surface gage point. If

the distance traveled by the carriage is not greater than one inch, the

micrometer will indicate the error directly. For lengths of carriage travel

greater than one inch, an end measuring rod, set to the number of even

inches required, can be used between the micrometer point and lathe

carriage. The error in the lead-screw is then easily determined by the

adjustment that may be required to make a contact for the measuring points

between the carriage and the micrometer screw. The pitch can be tested at

as many points as are considered necessary by using end measuring rods, of

lengths selected, set to good vernier calipers. The style of holder shown

can, with the micrometer screw, be used for numerous other shop tests, and

as the screw is only held by friction caused by the clamping screw, it can

easily be removed and placed in any form of holder that is found

necessary.[31]

[Illustration: Fig. 56. Testing a Lathe Lead-screw]

Simple Tool for Measuring Angles

[Illustration: Fig. 57. Special Tool for Measuring Angles]

Fig. 57 shows a very simple, but at the same time, a very ingenious tool

for measuring angles. Strictly speaking, the tool is not intended for

measuring angles, but rather for comparing angles of the same size. The

illustration shows so plainly both the construction and the application of

the tool, that an explanation would seem superfluous. It will be noticed

that any angle conceivable can be obtained in an instant, and the tool can

be clamped at this angle by means of screws passing through the joints

between the straight and curved parts of which the tool consists. Linear

measurements can also be taken conveniently, one of the straight arms of

the tool being graduated. As both of the arms which constitute the actual

angle comparator are in the same plane, it is all the easier to make

accurate comparisons. This tool is of German design, and is manufactured by

Carl Mahr, Esslingen a. N.

Bevel Gear-testing Gage

[Illustration: Fig. 58. Sensitive Gear-testing Gage]

In Fig. 58 is shown a sensitive gage for inspecting small bevel gears. The

special case shown to which the gage is applied in the engraving is a small

brass miter gear finished on a screw machine, in which case some of the

holes through the gears were not concentric with the beveled face of the

gears, causing the gears to bind when running together in pairs. The gage

shown is quite inexpensive, but it indicates the slightest inaccuracy.

* * * * *

NOTES

[1] MACHINERY, October, 1897.

[2] M. H. Ball, April, 1902.

[3] M. H. Ball, February, 1901.

[4] Harry Ash, April, 1900.

[5] M. H. Ball, March, 1903.

[6] Ezra F. Landis, May, 1902.

[7] L. S. Brown, March, 1903.

[8] C. W. Putnam, October, 1901.

[9] Jos. M. Stabel, May, 1903.

[10] Jos. M. Stabel, May, 1903.

[11] Jos. M. Stabel, May, 1903.

[12] Jos. M. Stabel, May, 1903.

[13] P. L. L. Yorgensen, February, 1908.

[14] A. L. Monrad, December, 1903.

[15] A. L. Monrad, December, 1903.

[16] A. L. Monrad, December, 1903.

[17] J. L. Marshall, February, 1908.

[18] Charles Sherman, November, 1905.

[19] M. H. Ball, May, 1903.

[20] Chas. A. Kelley, May, 1908.

[21] H. J. Bachmann, December, 1902.

[22] Wm. Ainscough, May, 1908.

[23] John Aspenleiter, October, 1900.

[24] W. W. Cowles, June, 1901.

[25] I. B. Niemand, December, 1904.

[26] Geo. M. Woodbury, February, 1902.

[27] A. Putnam, July, 1903.

[28] M. H. Ball, October, 1901.

[29] F. Rattek, January, 1908.

[30] Howard D. Yoder, December, 1907.

[31] W. Cantelo, July, 1903.

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