CHAPTER XXXVII

THE WICKED ROSE BUGS

“‘ZEALOUS care brings big reward in growing,’ our professor told us.”

Billy was perched in the fork of an apple tree. The two girls and his

mother were sitting on the grass which made a thick carpet beneath its

branches.

“He used to say it over so often that the fellows nicknamed him

‘Rosy,’” Billy went on.

“Oh!” exclaimed Mary Frances, “wasn’t that awful!” but she and Eleanor

giggled, and even her mother smiled.

“You didn’t call him that, though?” said Eleanor.

“Not when he could hear me,” laughed Billy. “But if I’m going to give

you this lesson we must make a start. The subject, by the way, is—

HOW TO PLANT ROSES

Before you can make a list of the roses you wish to

order, you must understand something about the state in

which they will be when received, how far apart they

may be planted, and—

WHERE TO MAKE BEDS FOR ROSES

Roses like warmth and air. They love to drink, but they

do not like wet feet.

Knowing these things, you will select for your rose bed

an airy, sunny place on the south side of a building or

wall, if possible, where the ground is not so low that

it will hold moisture long.

Having decided what is the best place you can offer

your roses, you will want to know—

HOW TO MAKE BEDS FOR ROSES

1. Do not buy too many plants for the space. Do not

make the bed over five feet wide. If wider, you will

tread on the soil and make it heavy.

2. Remember, roses are usually planted twenty-one

inches apart. (Do not plant Wichuraiana or Rugosa roses

in the bed.)

Alternate the plants, as shown in the following diagram:

(1) (2) (3) This saves garden space, and gives

(5) (4) room for the roots.

(6) (7) (8)

3. To be beautiful, roses must have plenty of good

food. So _dig deep_; eighteen inches is a good depth.

Fill this space with a mixture of soil and well-rotted

stable manure. It is best not to let the roots of the

roses touch the manure. Sprinkle a little soil over

the manure before putting the plant into its place. If

the ground is very damp, dig deeper than two feet and

throw in a basket of stones, through which the water

will drain.

4. Roses are received from the dealer either growing in

pots, or dormant (dry), or with little balls of earth

around the roots wrapped in damp moss.

The young inexperienced gardener will do best with the

potted plants, but if the plants are dry and dormant

(dormant means _sleeping_), it is well to soak the

roots before planting. Never expose damp roots to the

air. Keep in water or damp earth until planted.

HOW DEEP TO PLANT ROSES

Unless grown in pots, spread out the roots and pack the

earth firmly about them, putting the plant deep enough

to bring earth three inches over the “bud” or graft.

THE BEST TIME TO PLANT ROSES

depends on where you live.

In general, Spring is the best time, but in the South

and on the Pacific coast, Autumn is best.

Some of the _hardiest_ sorts will grow well, when set

out in the Fall, even in places where the winters are

severe.

Now, the bushes are planted, and we will think about—

CARING FOR ROSES

The chief cares for roses are:

1. Cultivating, or stirring the soil.

2. Feeding.

3. Destroying insect enemies.

4. Pruning.

You already understand the importance of cultivating

and the importance of feeding the plants.

FERTILIZERS

Two of the best foods for roses and easiest to use, are

bone dust and dried sheep manure, which you can buy

at the seed store. These you may dig into the soil as

you cultivate, being sure not to let the fertilizers

directly touch the roots.

ENEMIES OF ROSES

1. Rose Bugs.

2. Aphids.

3. Rusts and Mildews.

4. Borers and other chewing insects.

There are several different kinds of beetles, called

rose bugs, which come up out of the ground where they

have spent the winter, just at the time of the most

abundant and beautiful blooming.

In the Middle Atlantic States they stay in a place

about two weeks.

The best way to rid a plant of these enemies of roses

which “eat them alive,” is to hand-pick them, throwing

them into a can of kerosene.

There is a patent preparation which is good. Write your

dealer for information as to this.

Treat for other insects as you have already learned.

If your parents think you may be trusted to handle

a poison, spray in the early Spring with “Bordeaux

Arsenate of Lead” to prevent mildew and rust. In

summer, use Flowers of Sulphur.

Now, as to—

PRUNING ROSES

Prune rose bushes in the early Spring, just when the

plants _begin_ to show green, which means that their

sap is beginning to flow. Use pruning for cutting the

stems back.

Remember these principal rules:

1. Hybrid Perpetual Roses should be cut back about two

feet from the ground.

2. Cut back Hybrid Tea Roses more sparingly, that is,

farther from the ground than Hybrid Perpetuals.

3. Cut back Tea Roses only a short distance.

4. Cut only the dead wood from the other kinds.

Pruning cuts off the ends of the branches and causes

the plant to throw out strong joints from the eyes

along the canes, which will bear flowers.

“My,” exclaimed Mary Frances, as Billy closed his book suddenly and

jumped to the ground. “Is that all about roses?”

“No, dear,” answered her mother. “No, that is just a ‘first beginning,’

as you used to say when you were little.”

“Speaking of insect enemies, I see the wicked rose bugs have eaten into

the hearts of the most beautiful roses we own,” went on her mother.

“Come,” cried Mary Frances, “let’s go see if we can find them—and drown

them in kerosene.”

“Oh, but I’m afraid of them!” shuddered Eleanor.

Mary Frances laughed. “They won’t hurt you!” she said, running ahead.

“I bet I can catch the first hundred!”

The Mary Frances Garden Book; or, Adventures Among the Garden People · 第 30 / 36 章