But the magnificence with which Dagobert rebuilt and endowed S. Denis

completely eclipsed the work of the maid of Nanterre; and so effectually

was the king looked upon as the founder of the abbey that, up to the

dissolution of the monasteries, the monks celebrated his festival upon

the 19th of January with great solemnity and splendour. It was about the

year 630 that Dagobert undertook the rebuilding of the church, which is

said to have been decorated with precious marbles, magnificent bronze

doors, and gold and silver vessels enriched with precious stones. These

latter, and the shrine of the Saint, as well as the great cross at the

entrance of the choir, were the work of the famous artificer in metals,

S. Eloy, who was also the maker of the shrines of SS. Martin, Germain,

and Geneviève. These, and, in fact, all this great smith's works (as far

as is known) have perished; but his memory is still preserved by

pictures and sculptures representing some of the legendary incidents of

his life. In the Firenze Academy is a picture by Botticelli, and at the

church of Or San Michele is a statue and a bas-relief, both of which

represent one of the great events of the Saint's life. A horse having

been brought to him to be shod, the animal proved restive, and the Saint

being exercised in his mind as to how he should keep the beast still,

bethought him of an excellent plan. He calmly cut off the leg, and

placing it upon his anvil, fastened on the shoe; this done, he replaced

the leg upon the horse, to the amazement of the beast and the

edification of his owner. Another picture, painted for the Company of

the Goldsmiths, represents S. Eloy under the form of Benvenuto Cellini,

presenting a shrine to King Dagobert, who figures in the costume of

François I^er. In 754, Pépin and his queen Berthe, after being anointed

at S. Denis by Pope Stephen II., began the reconstruction of the

Merovingian church which Charlemagne finished and dedicated in 775. From

that year until the 12th century, little is known of the history of the

abbey. Like all churches and monasteries in the north of France, it was

probably destroyed, and its lands laid waste by the invasions of the

Northmen and the disastrous civil wars which characterised the end of

the Carlovingian dynasty, for nothing remains of the magnificence of the

churches of Dagobert and of Charlemagne but a few columns and marble

capitals in the crypt.

[Illustration: TOMB OF HENRI II. IN THE VALOIS CHAPEL BUILT BY PHILIBERT

DELORME.]

The third and present church was commenced by the great Abbot Suger, and

is considered by many French architects to be the earliest example of

Pointed architecture. Suger erected the tower, the portals, the nave,

and the choir in rapid succession, and subsequently the _chevet_ and

chapels; he filled the windows with the most exquisite jewel-like

stained glass, and loaded the shrines and altars with precious stones.

Some of the sacred vessels formerly belonging to the church are now in

the Salle d'Apollon of the Louvre, and testify to the exquisite

artistic taste as well as to the religious enthusiasm of the good abbot.

"_As it is our duty to present unto God oblations of gems and of gold,

I, Suger, offer this vase unto the Lord_," is the inscription upon an

antique sardonyx amphora which he converted into a vessel for the altar.

The dedication of this church took place twice, in 1140 and 1144, but

it was only to remain intact some 70 years. In 1219, the day after the

feast of the nativity of the Virgin, its _flèche_ was struck by

lightning, and a few years after, the church itself was partially

destroyed. Abbot Eudes Clément replaced the wooden _flèche_ by a stone

one, and raised the interior of the apse; and his third successor,

Matthieu de Vendôme, finished the transept and the nave. The chapels of

the nave upon the north side were built in the 14th century, and a few

unimportant additions were made in the succeeding century. Of the

magnificent circular chapel of the Valois erected for Henri II. and

Catherine de'Medici, nothing remains but a beautiful colonnade, now

forming a sham ruin in the Parc Monceau. The chapel was situated upon

the north of the apse, near the steps, and was destroyed during the

regency of Philippe d'Orléans, in 1719.

It is generally supposed that the destruction of churches and the

despoiling of monasteries in France were the work of the enemies of

religion in the form of the "people." But the kings did not hesitate to

rob the church when they could drain no more money out of their

long-suffering subjects. To Francis I.[12] and Louis XIV. the eighth

commandment was no more binding than the seventh; laws, divine or

otherwise, were made for the vulgar herd, not for their most Christian

Majesties; and so, when the "Grand Monarque" saw fit to please Mme. de

Maintenon by founding St. Cyr, he suppressed the abbacy of S. Denis, and

relieved the monastery of the abbot's revenues for an endowment. This

was the beginning of the downfall, and in 1791, the Benedictines were

dispersed after an occupation of twelve centuries. In the memoirs of the

organist attached to the abbey at the time, there is a touching account

of the last mass celebrated by the prior upon the day of departure. But

the church remained intact, and was even made the _dépôt_ of the relics

of the Sainte-Chapelle,[13] after the suppression of the chaplains

belonging to the latter. The _Moniteur_ of 3rd September, 1791, gives an

account of the sittings of the commission of _savants_, established at

the Bibliothèque des Quatre-Nations, for the consideration of the

preservation of works of art. This commission was appointed by the

National Assembly after the passing of the law for the appropriation of

the property of the clergy by _la chose publique_. M. De Larochefoucauld

was the president of this "Commission des Monuments," assisted by many

artists and _connoisseurs_. They first of all chose certain places as

receptacles for the works of art, and then decided what to keep and what

to destroy. The former quarters of the Petits-Augustins became the

museum of tombs and sepulchral sculptures; and to the Capucins, the

Grands-Jésuites, and the Cordeliers were sent the books and manuscripts.

A descriptive catalogue was drawn up by Alexandre Lenoir,[14] who was

appointed curator in 1790. Unfortunately, much was destroyed, as, for

instance, at the abbey of Royaumont, where two Benedictines, Poirier and

Puthod, were sent by the commission to superintend matters. The

mausoleum of the princes of S. Louis' family was "_démoli avec

adresse_," says the _Moniteur_; the coffins were opened "_avec

circonspection_," the ashes taken up with care, and then, ticketed and

sealed, sent to S. Denis. Les sieurs Puthod and Poirier carried off the

remains of seven princes and six monuments, which arrived just in time

to be packed off to the museum of the Petits-Augustins.

Many of the seventy-three abbots, from Dodon, the first (living in 637),

to the last, Jean-François-Paul de Gondi, Cardinal de Retz, were

distinguished for their piety, for their learning, their greed, or their

vices. Amongst them we find the names of Fulrad, Hilduin, Suger, Mathieu

de Vendôme, the Emperor Charles the Bald, the Kings Eudes, Robert and

Hugues Capet,[15] the Cardinals de Bourbon, de Lorraine, de Guise, and

Mazarin. The conventual buildings were all destroyed in the reign of

Louis XV., and during the Revolution the church suffered in the same way

as Notre-Dame and S. Eustache, by being secularized in the most

revolting manner. But if the Revolutionists destroyed and carried away

monuments, the Imperial architects did worse, for they began a

restoration in their own hideous taste and "style"; and it was not until

a few years ago that the old church was restored to its pristine beauty.

Perhaps few churches have seen more changes than the silent walls of S.

Denis have witnessed. The burial place of most of the kings of France,

it was also upon its High Altar that Louis le Gros deposited the

_oriflamme_, the famous standard of France,[16] while some seven

centuries later, its tombs were only preserved from utter ruin by the

wit of Alexandre Lenoir. Even the church itself was threatened with

destruction, and was only saved by an architect seriously suggesting

that it should be turned into a market, the side chapels forming shops.

By turns a Temple of Reason, a _dépôt_ of artillery, a theatre of

acrobats, a flour warehouse, and a granary, its desecration was not

consummated until the glass was removed, and the leaden covering of its

roof converted into bullets. Napoleon saved what remained, and began

restoring it as a resting-place for the defunct members of his dynasty.

The Concordat guaranteed it a chapter, and religious services were

restored.[17] But the 19th century proved as disastrous as wars and

revolutions. Lightning once more brought down the _flèche_ in 1837, and

again in 1846; and scrapings and cleanings carried away all the old

surfaces of the walls. Still, through the talent and learning of

Viollet-le-Duc, it is one of the finest of 13th century churches, and

now that the tombs have all been replaced in their former positions, one

of the most interesting.

[Illustration: THE NORTH-WEST DOORWAY.]

The _façade_ has three doorways, which are rich in the somewhat rude

sculpture of the time of Suger. The subject of the central tympanum and

_voussure_ is The Last Judgment. Christ is pronouncing the last

sentence, surrounded by the dead who are rising from their graves. His

Blessed Mother is interceding for sinners, and Abraham is receiving the

elect into his bosom. The Apostles, and the four-and-twenty elders,

holding musical instruments, and vases for the reception of the prayers

of the just as a sweet-smelling incense, are there, looking on at the

damned tossed into hell. Upon the stylobate of the portal we read the

parable of the Wise and foolish Virgins.

The southern doorway is decorated with the Martyrdom of S. Denis, and

the appearance of our Blessed Lord to the holy martyrs while in prison.

Unfortunately, much of these bas-reliefs is modern.

Some statues on one of the transept doorways are curious examples of how

a fraud may be perpetuated. They represent, without doubt, some members

of the royal house of David, but at some period they were said to be

kings of the Capétien line, and as such, casts were taken and sent to

Versailles, where they figured as portrait statues of Hugues Capet,

Robert, Henri, Philippe, Louis VI., and Louis VII. The capitals of the

columns and the foliage ornament of these portals are vastly superior in

style to the figures.

On each side of the western rose-window are some bands of black and

white marble, after the manner of the churches of Pisa and Genoa,

_souvenirs_, probably, of Suger's travels in Italy. Indeed, he tells us

in the account of his administration that he took much trouble in

preserving a mosaic which he had brought home and placed in the tympanum

of one of the doors. This was unfortunately replaced, in 1774, by a

bas-relief of the meanest possible workmanship.

The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, with a _chevet_ of seven

chapels at the east end, considerably raised above the level of the

nave. Access to these chapels is gained by a flight of steps on each

side of the High Altar, and under them is the royal crypt. The whole of

the east end of the church, the double aisles, with their single-shaft

pillars, the chapels, the vaulting, and the glass, form a mass of

colour, and a most beautiful _coup d'oeil_;[18] indeed, there is but

one eyesore in the whole building, the aforesaid series of windows

representing Louis Philippe's heroic deeds. Blue swallow-tailed coats

and white trousers scarcely form a costume which is either effective or

appropriate as designs for church windows.

The wood carving of the stalls is of the 15th century, and was brought

from the abbey of S. Lucien-lez-Beauvais; the inlaid marquetry work at

the backs of the seats is from the Château de Gaillon, built by Cardinal

d'Amboise. Many of the _misérérés_ have the usual quaint conceits which

one sees everywhere. Portions of the old glass were preserved by Lenoir

in the museum of the Petits-Augustins during the stormy period, and were

afterwards replaced in the windows of the apse. They consist mainly of

fragments of a tree of Jesse, and may be found in the chapel of the

Virgin. There are in all eleven lozenge-shaped medallions representing

scenes in the life of Moses, and mystical subjects from the Apocalypse,

bearing inscriptions by Suger. Upon the medallion of the Annunciation,

the good abbot himself is portrayed prostrate before the Blessed Virgin.

In one or two of the other chapels there are a few fragments of the

legend of S. Laurence.

[Illustration: THE LADY CHAPEL.]

Of the early kings of France Dagobert was the first to be buried at S.

Denis, and his memorial tomb (much restored) still stands on the right

of the High Altar. Clovis and Clotilde were buried in the crypt of the

first church erected upon the site of S. Geneviève, then called the

Church of the Holy Apostles. Childebert was laid in the church of the

Abbey of S. Vincent (founded by him), afterwards called S.

Germain-des-Près. Chlodoald was buried at S. Cloud; S. Radegonde, wife

of Clotaire I., at Poitiers; Chilpéric and Frédégonde laid the body of

one of their children in the first church of S. Denis. Besides Dagobert

I., his queen, Nanthilde, and their sons, Sigebert II. and Clovis II.

were buried at S. Denis; and although it is thought that other

Merovingian princes also received burial there, many repose at Chelles,

S. Waast d'Arras, S. Bertin, S. Etienne de Choisy, Metz, Angoulême, S.

Romain de Blaye, Jumièges, and S. Crépin de Soissons. The monuments of

Charles-Martel, Pépin and Berthe, Carloman, Charles the Bald,

Ermentrude, Louis, Carloman, and Eudes were all at S. Denis. Charlemagne

was buried at Aix-la-Chapelle, where the magnificent _châsses_

containing his skull and some of his bones may still be seen. His

descendants were distributed all over Europe: at Köln, Mainz, Prüm,

Regensburg, Loresheim, Oettinghen, Reichenau, Audlau, Verona, Milan, and

Piacenza; those in France, at Metz, Sens, Bourges, S. Laurent, S.

Sulpice, Tours, Angers, Lyon, Portiers, Compiègne, Reims, Péronne, and

Soissons.

[Illustration: URN SCULPTURED FOR THE HEART OF FRANÇOIS I^{er.}]

From Hugues Capet to Louis XV. most of the kings were interred at S.

Denis; but it must be borne in mind that almost all the tombs of the

earlier sovereigns are modern, either wholly or in part. In the 13th

century the strange custom came into fashion of dividing the bodies of

royal personages, and burying the parts in different places. The

Benedictine monks of S. Denis protested against this division of

valuable property, asserting their right to possess the entire remains

of the kings; but the Dominicans and the Cordeliers contested these

claims, and subsequently gained permission for their own churches to

share in the spoil. Later on, other religious orders obtained the same

privileges; and the ladies of Val-de-Grâce were distinguished by the

possession of the hearts of nearly all the royal princes and princesses

from Anne d'Autriche, the founder of the monastery. Naturally, when each

defunct sovereign was divided into three portions--the body, the heart,

and the intestines--great opportunities were afforded to architects and

sculptors; and we thus find three marble monuments with recumbent

figures erected for the remains of Charles V., that at S. Denis

containing his body, while Rouen and Maubuisson respectively possessed

his heart and his _et ceteras_.[19] Francis I.'s heart was placed in an

exquisite urn in the church of the nuns of Haute-Bruyère; while his body

was buried in the grand monument at S. Denis. The urn was the work of

Pierre Bontems, and is now in the same chapel as the tomb, which was the

joint work of Philibert Delorme and Bontems. The beautiful group of the

_Three Graces_, by Germain Pilon, formerly in the church of the

Célestins, and now in the Renaissance Museum of the Louvre, supported an

urn containing the heart of Henri II.;[20] the hearts of the 13th and

14th Louis, enveloped in shrines in the form of silver Angels, being the

property of the church of the Jesuits. The number of monuments erected

at S. Denis to the memory of the families of the sovereigns was small;

and none of them were to be compared, as works of art, to the beautiful

tombs of the Dukes of Bourgogne and of Brétagne at Dijon, at Bruges, and

at Nantes. Most of the princes of the different families, the Condés,

the Contis, the Valois, the Bourbons, &c., had founded chapels or

monasteries where they were afterwards buried; as, for instance, the

Orléans chapel at the Célestins, which was celebrated for its

magnificence.[21]

[Illustration: THE CHOIR AND SANCTUARY.]

None of the monuments of the early kings are anterior to the 13th

century; consequently, even the original portions of the effigies which

remain cannot be looked upon as in the slightest degree portrait

statues. On the other hand, the magnificent tombs in bronze, and the

brasses which adorned them, erected to the memory of Philippe Auguste,

S. Louis, and his father, and which were destroyed centuries ago, were

most probably as valuable as contemporary portraits as they were for

their workmanship; likewise the 13th century effigies which remain are

remarkable for the beauty of their workmanship. Louis IV. was the last

prince who was laid under a simple stone monument. The last tomb erected

was that of Henri II., the sovereigns who followed him having had no

memorials. They were laid together in one great crypt, and when

disturbed by the Revolutionists for the sake of the lead of their

coffins ("of the coffins of our old tyrants let us make bullets to hurl

at our enemies"), there were fifty-four bodies arranged upon iron

trestles side by side, Henri IV.[22] heading the list, and the Dauphin,

elder son of Louis XVI., ending it. The monuments now occupy the same

position that they did before the Revolution; and if we stand upon the

raised platform of the apse behind the High Altar we can gaze down upon

what may be called the history of France, from the artistic point of

view, during four or five centuries. On the left, the 13th century tomb

of Dagobert stands erect; beyond it, the Renaissance mausoleum of

Francis I., one of the _chefs-d'oeuvres_ of that grand sculptor,

Philibert Delorme. On the right, the enamelled brasses of the children

of S. Louis and the tomb of Henri II. A mosaic effigy of Frédégonde, the

Orléans monument, and the tomb of Louis XII. by the brothers Juste, of

Tours, complete the list of important works, while all about are

recumbent figures upon arcaded monuments. The resting-places of the

abbots were simply marked by inscriptions or flat slabs. The historian

of the Abbey, Dom Michel Félibien, records the number of thirteen stones

of grand priors with effigies, besides the abbots' tombs.

Among the distinguished men buried at S. Denis were the following:--

Pierre Chambellan, of whom Joinville writes, "Messire Pierre Chambellan

fut le plus loial homme et le plus droicturier que je veisse oncques en

la maision du roi ... l'homme du monde en qui le roy croirit plus"; and

Alphonse, son of Jean de Brienne, King of Jerusalem and uncle of S.

Louis, whose epitaph designates him as "moult saige et moult loial

chevaliers." Both of them died "au service de Dieu et de Monsieur Loys,

roy de France, dessous Cartaige l'an de l'incarnation de Nostre-Seigneur

MCCLXX," and were "enterrés en l'église Monsieur Saint Denis" in the

year MCCLXXI, "le vendredi devant la Penthecoste le jour et l'heure

quand Monsieur le roy Loys fut enterré"; indeed, the old chronicler

says, "aus pieds du bon roys tout en la manière qu'il gisoit à ses pieds

quand il estoit en vie." Pierre accompanied S. Louis in the disastrous

crusade which terminated his reign. No doubt his tomb was of metal,

destroyed with many others long before the Revolution, as for example,

that of the Comte d'Eu, in gilt copper, enriched with enamels, which

succumbed to the greed of the Huguenots.

Close to the tomb of Charles V. were those of Duguesclin, Louis de

Sancerre, Bureau de la Rivière, Arnaud de Guilhem seigneur de Barbazan,

who, before Bayard, was called _le chevalier sans reproche_, and who,

with six others, was victorious over seven English knights in 1404. Near

Duguesclin Charles V. had marked the spot for the burial place of Jean

Pastourel, one of his principal councillors, whose wife was laid at S.

Denis in 1380, but having, sick of the world, retired to the Abbey of S.

Victor towards the end of his life, he desired to be buried there rather

than amidst the splendours of the royal tombs. He was the only civilian

who was offered this much-coveted privilege.

Guillaume de Chastel was another non-royal personage whom it pleased his

master, Charles VII., _pour sa grande vaillance et les services qui lui

avoit faiz en maintes manières_, to bury at S. Denis. The warrior held

the town of Pontoise against the English, and died during the siege,

20th July, 1441. Another _vaillant capitaine de gendarmes_, the

chevalier Louis de Pontoise, fell by the side of Louis XI. at the

assault of the town of Crotoy, and was rewarded by being laid to rest

amongst the Royalties.

Louis XIV. of course accorded burial at S. Denis to his great

commanders. First, the Duc de Châtillon, for his magnificent services.

_Feu nostre très-cher cousin_ was killed at the taking, in 1649, of

Charenton, that peaceful suburb of Paris just outside the Bois de

Vincennes; and the King, wishing to _tesmoigner le ressentiment que nous

avons d'une si grande perte_, honoured the valiant _Duc_ with burial at

S. Denis. The service was to be at the King's expense, which looks as if

the honour were sometimes a costly one to the relatives; and no pomp or

ceremony was to be omitted--such were the instructions of his most

glorious majesty.

The Marquis de Saint Maigrin seems, according to the King's epistle, to

have been of a _valeur extraordinaire, dans toutes les occasions où il

s'est trouvé_; his majesty felt _avec beaucoup de douleur la perte que

nous en avons faite au dernier combat qui s'est fait dans les fauxbourgs

de nostre bonne ville de Paris_; and so he, too, was to rest with the

great ones, socially, of the earth.

Louis seems to have been a sort of complete letter writer; the note in

which he eulogises Turenne might serve as a model for those masters of

style amongst us who delight in long sentences and a scarcity of

full-stops; but, unlike the moderns, "la grande monarque" never gets

involved, he only causes a slight shortness of breath to his readers.

Witness the following page: "Chers et bien amez, les grands et signalez

services qui ont esté rendus à cet Estat par feu nostre cousin, le

vicomte de Turenne, et les preuves éclatantes qu'il a données de son

zèle, de son affection à nostre service, et de sa capacité dans le

commandement de nos armées que nous luy avons confiées avec une

espérance certaine des heureux et grands succès que sa prudence

consommée et sa valeur extraordinaire ont procuré à nos armes, nous

ayant fait ressentir avec beaucoup de douleur la perte d'un aussi grand

homme et d'un sujet aussi nécessaire et aussi distingué par sa vertu et

par sa mérite, nous avons voulu donner un tesmoignage public digne de

nostre estime et de ses grandes actions, en ordonnant qu'il fust rendu à

sa mémoire tous les honneurs qui peuvent marquer à la postérité

l'extrême satisfaction qui nous reste, et le souvenir que nous voulons

conserver de tout ce qu'il a faict pour la gloire de nos armes et pour

le soutien de nostre Estat; et comme nous ne pouvons en donner des

marques plus publiques et plus certaines qu'en prenant soin de sa

sépulture, nous avons voulu y pourvoir en telle sorte que le lieu où

elle séroit, fust un tesmoignage de la grandeur de ses services et de

nostre reconnoissance; c'est pourquoy, ayant résolu de faire bastir dans

l'église de Saint-Denys une chapelle pour la sépulture des rois et des

princes de la branche royale de Bourbon, nous voulons que, lorsqu'elle

sera achevée, le corps de nostredit cousin y soit transféré, pour y

estre mis en lieu honorable, suivant l'ordre que nous en donnerons; et

cependant nous avons permis à nos cousins le cardinal et le duc de

Bouillon, ses neveux, de mettre son corps en dépost dans la chapelle de

Saint-Eustache de ladite église de Saint-Denys, et d'y eslever un

monument à la mémoire de leur oncle, suivant les desseins qui en ont

esté arrestez; c'est de quoy nous avons bien voulu vous donner avis, et

vous dire en mesme temps que nous voulons que vous exécutiez ce qui est

en cela de nostre volonté, en faisant mettre ledit corps dans la cave de

ladite chapelle et en laissant la liberté aux ouvriers de travailler

audit monument jusqu'à son entière perfection. Si n'y faictes fautes;

car tel est nostre plaisir. Donné à Saint-Germain en Laye, le XXIIe

jour de Novembre 1675. _Signé_, Louis. Et plus bas, Colbert. Et sur le

reply: A nos chers et amez les abbé, prieur et religieux de l'abbaye

royale de Saint-Denys, en France."

The Churches of Paris, from Clovis to Charles X · 第 3 / 28 段