_Of the Division of_ Lapland.
Those who have writ of _Lapland_, mention different divisions of it.
_Saxo_ in his 5^{th} Book, and elswhere, speaks of two _Laplands_, and
after him _Johannes Magnus_ tells us, _that both the_ Laplands _are
joined together Southward_. I suppose in that division they had respect
to their situation, and meant the Eastern and the Western _Lapland_:
for so _Damianus Goes_, who seems to borrow from _Joh. Magnus_,
expresses it. _Lapland_, saith he, _is divided into the Eastern and the
Western, separated from each other by the Bothnic Sea_. From whence we
may gather that that part of the Country which lies on one side of the
_Bothnia_, was called the Eastern _Lapland_, and that which lies on the
other, the Western.
Besides this division of _Lapland_, there is another taken from the
places most frequented by the Inhabitants. For one part thereof, lying
along the Coasts of the Ocean, is from thence called _Siœfindmarken_,
that is _the maritime Lapland_; the other lying higher on the
Continent, _Fiœldmarken_, that is, _inland Lapland_: tho by some they
are called simply _Findmarken_ and _Lappmarken_. This last division
_Pet. Claud._ gives us in his 27^{th} Chapter. _All the Sea Coasts_,
saith he, _Northward and Eastward as far as_ Findmarkia _reaches, are
possest by the_ Siæfinni, _or maritime Finlanders, but the mountainous
and champaign Country, by the Lapfinni, from thence named Lapmarkia or
Wildfindlandia, that is wild or savage Findland_. Where he calls one
part of the Country _Lapmarckia_, the other _Findmarckia_, the one
lying along the shore, and bordering on the Sea, the other mountainous,
woody, and savage, upon the _Terra firma_. And this too may be worth
our notice, that _Wildfinland_ with him is that which others call
_Lappmarkia_: I suppose, because the Natives live by hunting, as those
of the other do by fishing. For he presently adds, _There are many
thousands in that place that feed on nothing but the flesh of wild
Beasts_. And indeed some there are with whom those only pass for the
true _Laplanders_: as _Samuel Rheen_, who in his 2^d Chapter of his
forementioned Book, tells us, _that besides the Scrickfinni_ (so he
calls them that with _Pet. Claud._ are _Siœfinnes_) _there are other
true_ Laplanders, _that live on nothing but rain deer_. And so from the
Natives feeding on wild Beasts, _Lapland_ properly so called, is also
stiled _Wildfindland_, in opposition to _Findmarkia_, whose Inhabitants
live both on Fish and Cattel. And yet there may be given another reason
for the imposition of this name, from the many woods of that Country.
_Olaus Magnus_ in more places then one calls the natives, men that
dwell in woods, or _Savages_: as in the title of his 3^d Chapt. of his
4^{th} Book, which is, _Concerning the fierceness of the_ Savages,
_or those that dwell in woods_, in which Chapter he describes the
_Laplanders_. And in the following Chapter he says, _that the wild_
Laplanders _are clothed with rich skins of several Beasts_. The Baron
_Herberstenius_ also in his History of _Moscovy_, calls them _Savage
Laplanders, who tho they dwell_, says he, _on the Sea Coast in little
Cottages, and lead a brutish kind of life, are yet more civilized then
the Savages of Lapland_: whence ’tis plain, that by the _Findlanders_
living near the Sea, he means those that others call _Siœfinnes_, and
by the _Savage Laplanders_ those that possess the inland Country, who
he thinks were so called from their wildness and barbarity. And by
and by he adds, _that by converse with Strangers, who come thither to
trade, they begin to lay aside their Savage nature, and become a little
more civilized_. Afterwards he calls them _Diki Loppi_, which name the
_Moscovites_ give them at this time, as hath been shewed elswhere.
There is also a 3^d Division of _Lapland_, that respects the several
Princes to whom the Country is in subjection. And this _Andr. Buræus_
intends, when he tells us, _The greatest part of_ Lapland, viz. _the
Southern and inland Country, belongs all to the Kingdom of Sweden:
The maritime tract, that lies on the Ocean, and is called Findmark
(whose Inhabitants the_ Siœfinni, _or maritime Findlanders, are so
named from their living by fishing) to Norway: The rest of them that
dwell from the_ Castle of Warhuus _to the mouth of the_ white Sea,
_are subject to the Russians, which part the Swedes call Trennes,
the Natives Pyhinienni, and the Russians Tarchana voloch_. Of their
subjection to these severall Princes, we shall speak when we come
to treat of their Government; and also of those parts that belong
to _Norway_ or _Denmark_, and _Russia_. At present we shall only
mention the division of that part which is under the _Swedes_, and
is named by _Buræus_, the Southern and inland _Lapland_, and by
_Petr. Claud._ _Lappmarkia_ properly so called. This is divided into
six lesser parts called _marker_, or _lands_, tho _Buræus_ chuses
to render them Territories or Provinces. Each of these have their
distinct names, and are called _Aongermandlandslapmark_, _Umalappmark_,
_Pithalappmark_, _Lulalapmark_, _Tornalapmark_, _Kiemilapmark_. So
_Samuel Rheen_ in his first Chapter, _That part of_ Lapland _which
belongs to Sweden is divided into the Kiemensian, Tornensian,
Lulensian, Pithensian, Umensian, and Angermanlandensian Lapmark_.
_Buræus_ mentions but five of these Provinces, viz. _Umalappmark_,
_Pithalappmark_, _Lulalapmark_, _Tornelapmark_, and _Kimilapmark_,
comprehending _Angermandlandslapmark_ under _Umalapmark_, not that they
are one and the same Province, but because they are both governed by
one Lieutenant. Each of these Provinces take their name from Rivers
that run thro the midst of them, as _Wexionius_ in his description of
_Swedland_ assures us. As for their situation, _Angermanlandslapmark_
borders upon _Andermannia_ and _Jemtia_, to this joins _Umalapmark_,
next to that is _Pithalapmark_, and then _Lulelapmark_, all of them
lying Westward, reaching on one side to that ridg of Hills that
divides _Swedland_ from _Norway_, and on the other side to the Western
_Bothnia_. Northward of them lies _Tornelapmark_, and extends it self
from the fartheh corner of the _Bay of Bothnia_ all along the North
Sea, called by Seamen _Cape Noort_. Next to this lies _Kimilapmark_,
winding from the North toward the East, and bounded on one side by
the Eastern _Bothnia_, on another side by that part of _Lapland_ that
belongs to _Russia_, and on a third side by _Cajania_ and _Carelia_.
Moreover these Provinces we are speaking of, are subdivided into lesser
parts, called by the _Swedes_ _Byar_, as _Samuel Rheen_ tells us, and
are equivalent to our _Shires_, and the _Pagi_ of the Ancients. So in
_Cæsar_ we meet with _Pagus Tigurinus_, and _Pagi Suevorum_, which were
not Villages or Country Towns, but large parts of a Country, such as
the _Greeks_ called νόμοι, used in ancient times in the division of
Ægypt. Hence the _Glossary_ renders the ancient _Toparchiæ_, _Pagus_,
τοπαρχία, χώρα, νόμος. There are several of these _Pagi_ or _Shires_
in each Province, except _Angermanlandslapmark_, which makes but one
_Pagus_, vulgarly called _Aosahla_. _Umalapmark_ hath four, _Uma_,
_Lais_ or _Raanby_, _Granby_, and _Vapsteen_. _Pithalapmark_ seven,
_Graotreskby_, _Arfwejerfsby_, _Lochteby_, _Arrieplogsby_, _Wisierfby_,
_Norrvesterby_, _Westerby_. _Lulalapmark_ five, _Jochmoch_, _Sochjoch_,
_Torpinjaur_, _Zerkislocht_, and _Rautomjaur_. _Tornelapmark_ eight,
_Tingawaara_, _Siggewaara_, _Sondewara_, _Ronolaby_, _Pellejerf_,
_Kiedkajerf_, _Mansialka_, _Saodankyla_, _Kithilaby_. So that all the
Territories or Provinces are divided into 33 _Byars_. In each of these
there are several _Clans_ or Families, which the _Swedes_ call _rakar_,
each of which have a certain allotment of ground assign’d them for
the maintenance of themselves and their Cattel; not in the nature of
a Country Farm with us, but of a very great length and bredth, so as
to include Rivers, Lakes, Woods, and the like, which all belong to one
_Clan_ or family. In every _Biar_ there are as many allotments as there
are families that can live of themselves, and are not forced by poverty
to serve others. In the _Byar_ called _Aosahla_ there are about 30 of
these _Clans_, or families, in others more or less according as they
are in bigness, which all have their several names, tho ’tis not worth
while to repeat them. And thus much shall suffice of the third division
of _Lapland_, not lately made (except that under _Charles IX_ some
_Clans_ had certain allotments assign’d them) but derived from very
ancient time; as appears from hence that neither the _Laplanders_ have
known, nor the _Swedes_ given them any other, since the Country hath
bin under their subjection. Nor are the words modern, or taken from any
thing that may give any cause to suspect them of novelty: which I the
rather observe, that from hence the native simplicity, agreable to the
antiquity of the Nation, may appear.