A VISIT TO THE PARIS CONSERVATOIRE

I feel very much like the tutor of Prince Karl Heinrich in the pretty

play _Old Heidelberg_. After a long absence he returned to Heidelberg

where his student life had been happy--or at least had seemed so to him

in the latter, lonesome years. Behold, he found the same reckless crowd,

swaggering, carousing, flirting, dueling, debt-making, love-making, and

occasionally studying. He liked it so well that, if I mistake not, the

place killed him. I felt very much in the same position as the Doctor

Jüttner of the play when I returned to Paris last summer. The

_Conservatoire_ is still in its old, crooked, narrow street; it is still

a noisy sheol as one enters at the gate; and there is still the same old

gang of callow youths and extremely pert misses going and coming. Only

they all seem more sophisticated nowadays. They--naturally enough--know

more than their daddies, and they show it. As they brushed past,

literally elbowing me, they seemed contemptuously arrogant in their

youthful exuberance. And yet, and yet--_ego in Arcadia!_

I stood in the quadrangle and dreamed. Forty years ago--or is it

fifty?--I had stood there before; but it was in the chilly month of

November. I was young then, and I was very ambitious. The little Ohio

town whose obscurity I had hoped to transform into fame--ah! these mad

dreams of egotistical boyhood--did not resent my leaving it. It still

stands where it was--stands still. I seem to have gone on, and yet I

return to that little, dull, dilapidated town in my thoughts, for it was

there I enjoyed the purple visions of music, where I fondly believed

that I, too, might go forth into the world and make harmony. I did; but

my harmony exercises were always returned full of blue marks. Such is

life--and its lead-pencil ironies!

To be precise as well as concise, I stood in the concierge's bureau some

forty years ago and wondered if the secretary would see me. He did.

After he had tortured me as to my age, parentage, nationality,

qualifications, even personal habits, it occurred to him to ask me what

I wanted in Paris. I told him, readily enough, that I had crossed the

yeasty Atlantic in a sailing vessel--for motives of economy--that I

might study the pianoforte in Paris. I remember that I also naïvely

inquired the hours when M. François Liszt--he called him _Litz!_--gave

his lessons. The secretary was too polite to laugh at my provincial

ignorance, but he coughed violently several times. Then I was informed

that M. Liszt never gave piano-lessons any time, any-where; that he was

to be found in Weimar; but only by passed grand masters of the art of

pianoforte-playing. Still undaunted, I insisted on entering my name

amongst those who would compete at the forthcoming public examination. I

was, as I said before, very young, very inexperienced, and I was alone,

with just enough money to keep me for one year.

I lived in a fourth-story garret in a little alley--you couldn't call it

a street--just off the exterior boulevard. Whether it was the Clichy or

the Batignolles doesn't matter very much now. How I lived was another

affair--and also an object lesson for the young fellows who go abroad

nowadays equipped with money, with clothes, with everything except

humility. Judging from my weekly expenses in my native town, I supposed

that Paris could not be very much higher in its living. So I took with

me $600 in gold, which, partially an inheritance, partially saved and

borrowed, was to last me two years. How I expected to get home was one

of those things that I dared not reflect upon. Sufficient for the day

are the finger exercises thereof! I paid $8 a month--about 40

francs--for my lodgings. Heavens--what a room! It was so small that I

undressed and dressed in the hall, always dark, for the reason that my

bed, bureau, trunk, and upright piano quite crowded me out of the

apartment. I could lie in bed and by reaching out my hands touch the

keyboard of the little rattletrap of an instrument. But it was a piano,

after all, and at it I could weave my musical dreams.

I forgot to tell you that my eating and drinking did not cut important

figures in my scheme of living. I had made up my mind early in my career

that tobacco and beer were for millionaires. Coffee was the grand

consoler, and with coffee, soup, bread, I managed to get through my

work. I ate at a café frequented by cabmen, and for ten cents I was

given soup, the meat of the soup--tasteless stuff--bread, and a potato.

What more did an ambitious young man want? There were many not so well

off as I. I took two meals a day, the first, coffee and milk with a

roll. Then I starved until dark for my soup meat. I recall wintry days

when I stayed in bed to keep warm, for I never could indulge in the

luxury of fire, and with a pillow on my stomach I did my harmony

lessons. The pillow, need I add, was to suppress the latent pangs of

juvenile appetite. My one sorrow was my washing. With my means, fresh

linen was out of the question. A flannel shirt, one; socks at intervals,

and a silk handkerchief, my sole luxury, was the full extent of my

wardrobe.

When the wet rain splashed my face as I walked the boulevards on the

morning of the examination I was not cast down. I had determined to do

or die. With a hundred of my sort, both sexes and varying nationality, I

was penned up in a room, one door of which opened on the stage of the

Conservatory theater. I looked about me. Giggling girls in crumpled

white dresses stalked up and down humming their arias, while shabbily

dressed mothers gazed admiringly at them. Big boys and little, bad boys

and good, slim, fat, stupid, shrewd boys, encircled me, and, as I was

mature for my age, joked me about my senile appearance. I had a numbered

card in my hand, No. 13, and all those who saw it shuddered, for the

French are as stupid as old-time Southern "darkies." Something akin to

the expectant feeling of the early Christian martyrs was experienced by

all of us as a number was called aloud by a hoarse-voiced Cerberus, and

the victim disappeared through the narrow door leading to the lions in

the arena. At last, after some squabbling between No. 14 and No. 15,

both of whom thought they had precedence over No. 13, I went forth to

my fate.

I came out upon a dimly lighted stage which held two grand pianofortes

and several chairs. A colorless-looking individual read my card and with

marked asperity asked for my music. Frightened, I told him I had brought

none. There were murmurings and suppressed laughter in the dim

auditorium. _There_ sat the judges--I don't know how many, but one was a

woman, and I hated her though I could not see her. She had a

disagreeable laugh, and she let it loose when the assistant professor on

the platform stumbled over the syllables of my very Teutonic name. I

explained that I had memorized a Beethoven sonata, all the Beethoven

sonatas, and that was the reason I left my music at home. This

explanation was received in chilly silence, though I did not fail to

note that it prejudiced the interrogating professor against me. He

evidently took me for a superior person, and he then and there mentally

proposed to set me down several pegs. I felt, rather than saw, all this

in the twinkling of an eye. I sat down to the keyboard and launched

forth into Beethoven's first _Sonata in F minor_, a favorite of mine.

Ominous silence broken by the tapping of a nervous lead pencil in the

hand of a nervous woman. I got through the movement and then a voice

punctuated the stillness.

"Ah, Mozart is _so_ easy! Try something else!" And then I made my second

mistake. I arose and, bowing to the invisible one in the gloom, I said:

"That, was _not_ Mozart, but Beethoven." There was an explosion of

laughter, formidable, brutal. The feminine voice rose above it all in

irritating accents.

"Impertinent! And what a silly beard he has!" I sat down in despair,

plucking at my fluffy chin-whiskers and wondering if they looked as

frivolous as they felt.

Nudged from dismal reverie, I saw the colorless professor with a music

book in his hand. He placed it on the piano-desk and mumbled: "Very

indifferent. Read this at sight." Puzzled by the miserable light, the

still more wretched typography, I peered at the notes as peers a miser

at the gold he is soon to lose. No avail. My vision was blurred, my

fingers leaden. Suddenly I noticed that, whether through malicious

intent or stupid carelessness, the book was upside down. Now, I knew my

Bach fugues, if I may say it, backward. Something familiar about the

musical text told me that before me, inverted, was the _C-sharp Major

Prelude_ in the first book of the _Well-tempered Clavichord_.

Mechanically my fingers began that most delicious and light-hearted of

caprices--I did not dare to touch the music--and soon I was rattling

through it, all my thoughts three thousand miles away in a little Ohio

town. When I had finished I arose in grim silence, took the music, held

it toward the chief executioner, and said:

"And upside down!"

There was another outburst, and again that woman's voice was heard:

"What a comedian is this young Yankee!"

I left the stage without bowing, jostled the stupid doorkeeper, and fled

through the room where the other numbers huddled like sheep for the

slaughter. Seizing my hat I went out into the rain, and when the

concierge tried to stop me I shook a threatening fist at him. He stepped

back in a fine hurry, I assure you. When I came to my senses I found

myself on my bed, my head buried in the pillows. Luckily I had no

mirror, so I was spared the sight of my red, mortified face. That night

I slept as if drugged.

In the morning a huge envelope with an official seal was thrust through

a crack in my door--there were many--and in it I found a notification

that I was accepted as a pupil of the Paris _Conservatoire_. What a

dream realized! But only to be shattered, for, so I was further

informed, I had succeeded in one test and failed in another--my sight

reading was not up to the high standard demanded. No wonder! Music

reversed, and my fingers mechanically playing could be hardly called a

fair sight-reading trial. Therefore, continued this implacable document,

I would sit for a year in silence watching other pupils receiving their

instruction. I was to be an _auditeur_, a listener--and all my musical

castles came tumbling about my ears!

What I did during that weary year of waiting cannot be told in one

article; suffice it to say I sat, I heard, I suffered. If music-students

of today experience kindred trials I pity them; but somehow or other I

fancy they do not. Luxury is longed for too much; young men and young

women will not make the sacrifices for art we oldsters did; and it all

shows in the shallow, superficial, showy, empty, insincere

pianoforte-playing of the day and hour.

Old Fogy: His Musical Opinions and Grotesques · 第 28 / 41 题