IN MOZARTLAND WITH OLD FOGY

The greatest musician the world has yet known--Mozart. The greatest?

Yes, the greatest; greater than Bach, because less studied, less

artificial, professional, and _doctrinaire_; greater than Beethoven,

because Mozart's was a blither, a more serene spirit, and a spirit whose

eyes had been anointed by beauty. Beethoven is not beautiful. He is

dramatic, powerful, a maker of storms, a subduer of tempests; but his

speech is the speech of a self-centered egotist. He is the father of all

the modern melomaniacs, who, looking into their own souls, write what

they see therein--misery, corruption, slighting selfishness, and

ugliness. Beethoven, I say, was too near Mozart not to absorb some of

his sanity, his sense of proportion, his glad outlook upon life; but the

dissatisfied peasant in the composer of the _Eroica_, always in revolt,

would not allow him tranquillity. Now is the fashion for soul

hurricanes, these confessions of impotent wrath in music.

Beethoven began this fashion; Mozart did not. Beethoven had himself

eternally in view when he wrote. His music mirrors his wretched, though

profound, soul; it also mirrors many weaknesses. I always remember

Beethoven and Goethe standing side by side as some royal nobody--I

forget the name--went by. Goethe doffed his bonnet and stood uncovered,

head becomingly bowed. Beethoven folded his arms and made no obeisance.

This anecdote, not an apochryphal one, is always hailed as an evidence

of Beethoven's sturdiness of character, his rank republicanism, while

Goethe is slightly sniffed at for his snobbishness. Yet he was only

behaving as a gentleman should. If Mozart had been in Beethoven's place,

how courtly would have been the bow of the little, graceful Austrian

composer! No, Beethoven was a boor, a clumsy one, and this quality

abides in his music--for music is always the man. Put Beethoven in

America in the present time and he would have developed into a dangerous

anarchist. Such a nature matures rapidly, and a century might have

marked the evolution from a despiser of kings to a hater of all forms of

restrictive government. But I'm getting in too deep, even for myself,

and also far away from my original theme.

Suffice to say that Bach is pedantic when compared to Mozart, and

Beethoven unbeautiful. Some day, and there are portents on the musical

horizon, some day, I repeat, the reign of beauty in art will reassert

its sway. Too long has Ugly been king, too long have we listened with

half-cracked ear-drums to the noises of half-cracked men. Already the

new generation is returning to Mozart--that is, to music for music's

sake--to the Beautiful.

I went to Salzburg deliberately. I needed a sight of the place, a

glimpse of its romantic surroundings, to still my old pulse jangled out

of tune by the horrors of Bayreuth. Yes, the truth must out, I went to

Bayreuth at the express suggestion of my grandson, Old Fogy 3d, a

rip-roaring young blade who writes for a daily paper in your city. What

he writes I know not. I only hope he lets music alone. He is supposed to

be an authority on foot-ball and Russian caviar; his knowledge of the

latter he acquired, so he says, in the great Thirst Belt of the United

States. I sincerely hope that Philadelphia is not alluded to! I am also

informed that the lad occasionally goes to concerts! Well, he begged me

to visit Bayreuth just once before I died. We argued the thing all last

June and July at Dussek Villa--you remember my little lodge up in the

wilds of Wissahickon!--and at last was I, a sensible old fellow who

should have known better, persuaded to sail across the sea to a horrible

town, crowded with cheap tourists, vulgar with cheap musicians, and to

hear what? Why, Wagner! There is no need of telling you again what I

think of _him_. You know! I really think I left home to escape the

terrible heat, and I am quite sure that I left Bayreuth to escape the

terrible music. Apart from the fact that it was badly sung and

played--who ever does play and sing this music well?--it was written by

Wagner, and though I am not a prejudiced person--_ahem!_--I cannot stand

noise for noise's sake. Art for art they call it nowadays.

I fled Bayreuth. I reached Munich. The weather was warm, yet of a

delightful balminess. I was happy. Had I not got away from Wagner, that

odious, _bourgeois_ name and man! Munich, I argued, is a musical city.

It must be, for it is the second largest beer-drinking city in Germany.

Therefore it is given to melody. Besides, I had read of Munich's model

Mozart performances. Here, I cried, here will I revel in a lovely

atmosphere of art. My German was rather rusty since my Weimar days, but

I took my accent, with my courage, in both hands and asked a coachman to

drive me to the opera-house. Through green and luscious lanes of foliage

this dumpy, red-faced scoundrel drove; by the beautiful Isar, across the

magnificent Maximilian bridge over against the classic _façade_ of the

Maximilineum. Twisting tortuously about this superb edifice, we tore

along another leafy road lined on one side by villas, on the other

bordered by a park. Many carriages by this time had joined mine in the

chase. What a happy city, I reflected, that enjoys its Mozart with such

unanimity! Turning to the right we went at a grand gallop past a villa

that I recognized as the Villa Stuck from the old pictures I had seen;

past other palaces until we reached a vast space upon which stood a

marmoreal pile I knew to be the Mozart theater. What a glorious city is

Munich, to thus honor its Mozart! And the building as I neared it

resembled, on a superior scale, the Bayreuth barn. But this one was of

marble, granite, gold, and iron. Up to the esplanade, up under the

massive portico where I gave my coachman a tip that made his mean eyes

wink. Then skirting a big beadle in blue, policemen, and loungers, I

reached the box-office.

"Have you a stall?" I inquired. "Twenty marks" ($5.00), he asked in

turn. "Phew!" I said aloud: "Mozart comes high, but we must have him."

So I fetched out my lean purse, fished up a gold piece, put it down, and

then an inspiration overtook me--I kept one finger on the money. "Is it

_Don Giovanni_ or _Magic Flute_ this afternoon?" I demanded. The man

stared at me angrily. "What you talk about? It is _Tristan und Isolde_.

This is the new Wagner theater!" I must have yelled loudly, for when I

recovered the big beadle was slapping my back and urging me earnestly to

keep in the open air. And that is why I went to Salzburg!

Despite Bayreuth, despite Munich, despite Wagner, I was soon happy in

the old haunts of the man whose music I adore. I went through the Mozart

collection, saw all the old pictures, relics, manuscripts, and I

reverently fingered the harpsichord, the grand piano of the master. Even

the piece of "genuine Court Plaister" from London, and numbered 42 in

the catalogue, interested me. After I had read the visitors' book,

inscribed therein my own humble signature, after talking to death the

husband and wife who act as guardians of these Mozart treasures, I

visited the Mozart platz and saw the statue, saw Mozart's residence, and

finally--bliss of bliss--ascended the _Kapuzinberg_ to the Mozart

cottage, where the _Magic Flute_ was finished.

Later, several weeks later, when the Wagner municipal delirium had

passed, I left Salzburg with a sad heart and returned to Munich. There I

was allowed to bathe in Mozart's music and become healed. I heard an

excellent performance of his _Cosi Fan Tutti_ at the _Residenztheater_,

an ideal spot for this music. With the accompaniment of an orchestra of

thirty, more real music was made and sung than the whole _Ring Cycle_

contains. Some day, after my death, without doubt, the world will come

back to my way of thinking, and purge its eyes in the Pierian spring of

Mozart, cleanse its vision of all the awful sights walled by the

dissonantal harmonies of Beethoven, Schumann, Wagner, and Richard

Strauss.

I fear that this letter will enrage my grandson; I care not. If he

writes, do not waste valuable space on his "copy." I inclose a picture

of Mozart that I picked up in Salzburg. If you like it, you have my

permission to reproduce it. I am here once more in Mozartland!

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