directions for the removal or deprivation of full super boxes; but
it may be well here to describe the method to be pursued where it
is necessary to operate on a _stock-hive_. In such a case, a piece
of board is useful, of the same width and thickness as the top, or
crown-board. In the middle of the day, unscrew the latter, sliding it
sideways; the extra board covering over the vacancy as you proceed. In
this way, only as much space as is wanted to get at any given bar need
be exposed. "A few puffs of smoke," says Mr. Golding, "may now be blown
down the sides of the comb to be taken out, which will intimidate the
bees, and drive them away. A double-edged knife-blade, an inch and a
half long, and three eighths of an inch wide, turned at right angles
from the end of an iron rod of about a foot in length, is now passed
down the edges of the comb, to detach them from the hive. After this
is done, the comb may be easily lifted; such bees as still adhere to
it being swept down into the hive as the bar is lifted upwards. Such
operations as these are much less formidable than many persons believe.
The fact is, the bees, when once intimidated by the smoke, may be done
almost anything with. Quietness and a little tact are all that is
required. When combs are taken out, they may be either detached from
the bars at once, and the bars returned, or spare bars may be kept on
hand wherewith to replace such as have been extracted."
BAR GLASS-HIVE.
[Illustration]
Before we leave the subject of box-hives, it may be interesting to
give a description of one recently constructed by me for experimental
purposes, as referred to in the note at page 53, and here illustrated.
It may not improperly be termed a _Light_, or _Observatory Hive_, in
distinction from the usual mode of rendering the dwelling as dark as
possible. The hive itself resembles the bar-boxes just described,
as to its interior dimensions, bars, crown-board, &c.; but differs
inasmuch as it is made simply as a frame, filled in on the four sides
with thick glass, flush with the inside surface of the wood. For the
purpose of preventing the bees from attaching the combs to the glass,
thin upright strips of wood, rather more than half an inch wide, are
tacked under the centre of each bar, at both ends, extending from top
to bottom inside of the hive. Or some might prefer to use frame-bars,
like the one described and illustrated at page 58; but guides or waxed
bars must be used, to ensure the regularity of the combs, and prevent
an obstruction to the sight. The hive ought to be placed in a house,
and in winter should be carefully covered; an outer case or box going
over all.
STRAW BAR-HIVE.
We have already alluded to hives of straw, fitted with bars. The one
now about to be described differs from those commonly used, in several
respects, as will be seen on reference to the annexed illustration.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
In form, my hive is an open cylinder, 14 inches in inside diameter,
and 7 inches in height, to the upper side of the bars, which are
eight in number; similar in size, and interspaced like those in the
square bar-hive, described at page 56. For the purpose of supporting
the bars, a well-seasoned hoop is introduced within, and on a level
with, the upper edge of the hive--nearly two inches in depth, and a
quarter inch thick; its interior diameter being the same as that of
the hive. The two upper straw bands of the latter are reduced in size,
sufficiently to form a recess equal to the thickness of the hoop,--the
outside of the hive remaining flush. The hoop is there retained by a
few small brad-nails, driven through it and into the straw; and thus no
impediment is offered on extracting the combs. A difficulty presented
itself in attaching the bars to the edge of the hoop, to overcome which
I constructed a pattern-gauge, differing in form from that seen at
page 57. Our illustration will show that the outer edges of the gauge
are divided, so as, when laid flat upon the hoop, to give the precise
position of the indentations for the reception of the ends of the bars:
moreover, these may severally be correctly fashioned by following
the form shown upon the gauge. The adjustment of the bars should be
done previously to attaching the hoop to the hive, not allowing them
to fit too tight. The cover is a flat piece of worked straw, which
ought to lie _close_ upon the bars. I have found no better method of
securing the cover in its place than by the use of a few pointed iron
pins, going down through it and into the upper edge of the hive. For
convenience of working supers, a three-inch hole is left in the centre
of the cover; stopped, when not in use, by a small piece of worked
straw, pinned down. Some persons might prefer a wooden top, which
may be perforated either with one hole or three. It should rest upon
the bars, and can be held in its place by pins, in the way we have
just mentioned, and which at any time are removable; or a hoop may be
attached to the edge of the crown-board, as described and shown at page
35.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CIRCULAR WOODEN HIVES.
I have sometimes turned my attention to cylinders of wood, as offering
great advantages in constructing a hive; not only in attaching bars,
but also the desirable convenience of windows. The facilities for
procuring them made with the requisite correctness of form, however,
depends on circumstances not always at command; the process of
construction being the same of steaming, rolling, and shaping, employed
by the manufacturers of our common wooden corn measures, &c. The cost
of the wood cylinders alone are not much more than the straw ones, and
being made of oak or ash, they are very durable. Softer and more porous
wood would doubtless be preferable, but a difficulty attends the use
of such. In size, the dimensions before recommended are adhered to;
viz., 14 inches clear, by seven inches in height, for hives with or
without bars; the thickness being about half an inch. A reference to
our illustration, and to the accompanying pattern gauge, will show the
mode of cutting and adjusting the bars; these resting rather loosely in
rabbets, cut the width of the bar, half through the thickness of the
hive. The crown-board may be made and cut in the way already described,
and can be fixed by means of a few small screws; or, if preferred, in
the method detailed and illustrated at page 59. When the hive is not
fitted with bars, it is an advantage partially to sink the crown-board
within the diameter of the cylinder, which ensures a more perfect
joint. At the back is a window of bent glass, protected by a sliding
zinc shutter, moving in a frame of rabbeted moulding; all following the
curved form of the wood. A suitable staining and varnishing gives to
the whole a neat appearance. Two of the hives may be placed one upon
the other, for supering; an adapter or centre board going between them:
or smaller wooden round hives, of any size, with thin tops, can be used
for the same purpose; and these might be made by a common cooper.
[Illustration]
These hives are of too recent introduction to warrant saying more than
that, to adapt them to the object in view, it is essential that they
be placed in a house or cover, as from the density of the wood they
are not calculated to bear exposure to the sun and weather. In winter
attention should be given to close covering them. I may add that, in
using a thinner cylinder, I have tried the experiment of coating the
outside with an envelope of _gutta percha_, giving the advantage of
improved appearance, and doubtless of utility, but at a considerable
increase of cost.
COLLATERAL SYSTEM.
[Illustration]
Various modes of working hives collaterally, or side by side, have been
devised, but a very simple one has been practised with success by a
correspondent, which as adapted by me may with propriety be termed a
_doubling-board_. It is formed of a plain board not less than an inch
thick. It must be of sufficient width to take a broad shallow hive,
and long enough to contain two of these, with six or eight inches to
spare. A stock-hive is in the first instance placed over the centre
circular mark, within which is the double outlet for the bees. When
more space is required, it must be moved over one of the side circles,
and a second hive placed over the other. The double outlet forms
a communication within the floor-board from hive to hive. The part
hollowed out for this purpose is five inches wide, six inches long, and
half an inch high inside, a sloping way being cut on the two further
sides down into it. Two covered passages lead from this, terminating
at one point on the alighting-board. The bees, having been accustomed
to both these passages, will commonly take to the second hive, and
commence working therein, particularly if smeared with honey. In order
to show the position of the parts hollowed out, these are slightly
shaded in the engraving. They are cut from the bottom side of the
board, in the way described at page 45. A second piece of wood, nine
or ten inches wide, must be screwed to the under side, to enclose
the openings. This ought to reach back nearly the width of the upper
board; at the same time projecting far enough in front to form the
alighting-place. Another cross piece may be screwed to the under side,
at each end.
When it is required to take away one of the hives, the communication
below must be cut off between them. This is done by means of a divider
of strong tin, copper, or iron, pushed in from behind, in a groove
cut edgewise in the bottom side of the main board, and resting on the
under one. The dotted line in the engraving shows the position of the
divider, which must in depth be the same as the passage between the
two hives, so as, when in its place, to stop it entirely across the
centre.
Another plan of working hives side by side is shown below, two boards
being required.
[Illustration]
They are made on the double plan, as described at page 45; alike in
size and thickness, with the entrance passages cut out from beneath.
There must, however, be two entrances to the board intended for the
second hive--one in front, and the other at the side, with doorways not
less than six inches wide. A wedge or two of wood will contract them
as needed. When room is required, the first board with its hive must
be moved so far sideways that the second one can precisely occupy its
place. At the same time it must be turned half round, so that its mouth
and that on the side of the new hive meet and fit close together. The
bees will pass into the other hive on going out: on returning it will
be the same, for the alighting-board (which ought to be a fixture) will
remain as usual. On removing a full hive, the other must be restored
to its original position.
[Illustration]
WHITE'S COLLATERAL HIVE.
As regards collateral bee-boxes, we owe our original acquaintance with
them principally to White, nearly a century ago.[L] His plan requires
two boxes, placed side by side, with means of communication, open
or stopped at pleasure. These hives do not appear to have been very
extensively used; perhaps a good deal owing to the imperfect way in
which they were made. For my own use, I endeavoured to improve upon the
original design, of which the engraving following will give an idea.
The boxes and their boards are shown a little separated; the passages
from one to the other being made along the top and bottom of each box.
These openings can be closed by the introduction horizontally of slides
of thick tin or copper, of an inch and a quarter wide, inserted from
behind; let into the boxes their own thickness, and there loosely kept
by cases or strips of tin, cut to correspond with the openings. The
tins may be about two and a half inches wide. Their form, and that of
the slides, is here shown.
[L] See 'Collateral Bee-boxes; or a new, easy, and advantageous method
of managing Bees.' By Stephen White, Holton, Suffolk, London, three
editions, 1756, 1763, and 1764.
[Illustration]
NUTT'S COLLATERAL HIVE.
The modes we have hitherto noticed as applicable to hives worked
side by side suppose two to be employed; but Nutt, a few years ago,
introduced _three_ boxes, as forming a set; and these hives had their
day, where cost and space were not objects.[M]
[M] See 'Humanity to Honey Bees.' By Thomas Nutt.
The three boxes are placed together collaterally, with an entrance
from the centre box to the side ones, each way, through what may be
termed a grating; which communication can either be open, or cut off
by means of a divider, made of sheet tin, pushed between. The centre
box Nutt named the _Pavilion_, into which the bees must be hived, and
not afterwards disturbed. As more space is required by the bees, it
is given by withdrawing the divider. They then take possession of one
or both of the side boxes, which when filled can be removed. There are
holes on the top of the side boxes for the reception of ventilators.
In the construction of these hives the theory of Nutt supposes that a
warmer temperature is required in the seat of breeding from that in
which comb-building and the storing of honey ought to take place, than
which no greater fallacy is possible, as during the formation of a comb
the bees cluster round it in masses, to generate the highest degree
of warmth. By the agency of ventilation in his side boxes, these are
injuriously rendered cooler than the centre one; a thermometer inserted
within the ventilator determining the relative degrees of heat.[N]
[N] Another point on which Nutt laid much stress may be mentioned,
viz., the supposed advantage to the bees in working on one level,
without the necessity of _climbing_, as in storified hives. I long
thought this was indisputable. Further consideration led me more
minutely to examine the habits of the bee in this respect, and I became
convinced that nature had given it equal facilities for moving in every
direction. A scientific correspondent thus writes on this subject: "I
once propounded the question to a very eminent mathematician, and his
reply was, that, if any, the difference was too minute to admit of
calculation between the horizontal and the perpendicular movement; it
was, in the language of the present day, infinitesimal." Although few
of Nutt's positions have been found to stand the test of practice, it
ought not to be said that his crude speculations and rash assertions
have been altogether without useful results, as they undoubtedly led to
farther investigation, and several modern improvements had thus their
origin.
[Illustration]
Although at one time I inclined to the principle propounded by Nutt,
yet in the working of his hives, I found several disadvantages in their
details. I therefore, for my own convenience, altered in part the form,
and mode of communication between the boxes, as shown in White's hive;
in the absence of a bee-house, completing the fabric by the addition of
an outer cover and weather-boarded roof. The details of this hive have
so frequently been repeated in former editions, that a reference to the
preceding engravings will now suffice to give a general idea of the
ground and separated plan, and elevation.
[Illustration]
The ventilators I constructed for my Nutt's hive, after trying various
forms, consist of double tin or zinc tubes, both resting on a flanch
or rim, in the holes prepared for them on the top of the box, usually
near the back. The outer tube is of one inch diameter, and six inches
long, with six half-inch holes dispersed over it. It is soon fixed down
in its place by the bees, and so must remain. The inner tube is of
perforated zinc, with a projecting top as a handle, and a cap to put on
or off this, as required. The bees will stop up the inner tube where
they can get at it, when it may be turned round a little to present a
new surface. When wholly stopped, it can be withdrawn from its place,
and a clean tube substituted. A small thermometer fits within the inner
tube. The scientific apiarian, with experimental objects in view, will
often find this kind of apparatus, which is applicable to any plain
box-hive, of use.
[Illustration]
There is nothing to prevent the adoption, in this hive, of an entrance
from beneath the floor-board, in the way described at page 45. In this
case, the portico and its adjuncts are superseded; as seen below, in an
improved elevation.
NADIR HIVE.
[Illustration: _Elevation_]
Bees not unfrequently take advantage of a hole or crack in the
floor of their domicile to commence building combs underneath it, a
position possessing some advantages. Deriving a hint from themselves,
I contrived what, from this peculiarity, I used to term by way of
distinction a _Nadir Hive_, the store box being placed underneath the
stock, coming out at the back, as a drawer. The details of construction
of the _Nadir Hive_ have appeared several times in our former
editions, but by way of illustrating the principle and methods of its
application, the engravings annexed will not be without their utility.
In practice I found no indisposition on the part of the bees to enter
and work in the store drawer, into which they have access through the
floor-board above, and which is in part made like that shown at page
78. It will be seen that the entire design supposes an out-door hive,
with a hipped cover. The stock-box is enclosed by four panels, moving
up and down in grooves or rabbets, cut in the corner pilasters, the
latter being attached to the box.
[Illustration: Separated Plan.]
[Illustration: _Floor-board._]
[Illustration: _Nadir drawer and loose cover._]
This mode of applying the Nadir, or rather Nether principle, must not
be confounded with the usual plan of disturbing the stock-hive for the
purpose of placing an empty one beneath it, with a new entrance in the
latter for the bees. Under such circumstances the Queen will commonly
descend and breed in the nadir, which is converted into the stock,
occasioning much subsequent inconvenience. I have not found such to be
the case where the stock, and the entrance into it, is not interfered
with; and am inclined to believe that this adaptation of bottom-hiving
is worthy of much more attention than it has received; to say nothing
of its simplicity, safety in management, and obvious convenience to
the bees. I will therefore proceed to show in what way it may be made
applicable, generally, to the purposes of an apiary.
We have just pointed out that the mode we are now discussing differs
from the Nadir principle, and by way of distinction, the term _Nether_
will be used, not only to mark the difference, but as presenting a
contrast to the opposite word _Super_.
We are to suppose that the shelf on which the hives are ranged in a
bee-house is perforated under the centre of each, from back to front,
with an opening through, three inches long, and about three quarter
inch wide. The hive-board must be a separate loose one; and it ought
to lie flat on the shelf, with a perforation similar to the other, the
holes in each coming together: to ensure this the shelf can be marked.
By moving the hive-board (which is best square) a little sideways
of this mark, the position of the two holes is altered, and the
communication downwards becomes stopped; always doing this cautiously,
to avoid injuring the bees. Or, the same object is perhaps better
attained by means of a narrow zinc or tin slide, inserted from behind,
between the two boards, moving in a groove ploughed its own thickness
out of the shelf. A reference to our last engraving sufficiently
exhibits a box, or rather drawer (of suitable size), which, when in its
place, moves close on the underneath side of the bee-house shelf, by
means of blocks and runners; drawing out at the back by a handle. It
may have a window and shutter, but no entrance for the bees, except
downwards through the cover, in which is an aperture, corresponding in
size and position with those in the boards above it. It will be seen
that the cover of the drawer is a moveable one, of half inch board,
fitting down flush into it, and resting at the four corners upon wire
supports, or small blocks, placed the thickness of the cover, across
the angles. The edges of the cover (except at the corners) are cut
away just enough to admit of passing a knife-blade down, to separate
the combs from the sides, when the whole may be lifted up, with the
combs attached. The honey thus obtained is of the purest kind, and I
have known a large quantity made available with the least possible
disturbance to the bees, on removal. The drawer may be sometimes
further made useful for the purpose of feeding, a trough being placed
in it, close up to the opening in the cover. A small opening or
perforation, at or near the bottom of the drawer, will give ventilation
should it be needed.
[Illustration: FIG. 1. FRONT.]
[Illustration: FIG. 1. BACK.]
With a further view of facilitating the practice of under-hiving, when
favorable circumstances allow of it, we will proceed to describe what I
have termed a _Nether_, which may be used as an adjunct to a straw or
any other hive, as shown in the illustrations Fig. 1, back and front.
It may be of half inch wood, 11 or 11-1/2 inches square withinside,
and 6 to 7 inches deep, as circumstances require (see Fig. 4). It has
a window and shutter at the back, but neither a fixed top nor bottom,
these being moveable boards, of half inch wood, made to project half an
inch beyond the Nether box; except that, as respects the bottom board,
the projection is increased at the back, with a view to give facilities
on the removal of the Nether. (See Figs. 3 and 5.) To receive and
enclose the Nether, there is an outer case or cover, also of half inch
wood, 13 to 13-1/2 inches square withinside, made half an inch higher
than the Nether, its top and bottom boards inclusive. The outer case
is closed on all sides except the top and back. (See Fig. 2.) Upon it
rests the floor-board of the stock-hive, which may be of inch wood,
showing a projection all round of an inch, except at the front, where
an additional three inches is given, to form the alighting board, this
part bevelling forwards. A square of half inch wood must be screwed
to the under side of the floor-board, of a size to drop easily within
the square of the outer case, and thus retaining it in its place.
Between the two pieces of which the floor-board is composed, a groove
is ploughed out, from front to back, two inches wide, to receive a zinc
dividing slide, pushing in from behind. An opening, about three inches
long, is cut through the floor-board, towards the front, and also
through the cover of the Nether, to correspond, so that a passage for
the bees can be opened on withdrawing the divider. (See Figs. 6, front
and back.)
[Illustration: FIG. 6. BACK: 6. FRONT: 5, 4, 3, 2]
A reversal of this proceeding enables possession or inspection to be
had of the Nether box, by withdrawing it (upon its bottom board) from
behind, the stock-hive being entirely undisturbed by the operation.
It is well here to remark that experience has shown that it is seldom
expedient to apply the Nether principle to any but strong and populous
stocks, and especially in only moderately warm weather, as otherwise
the bees will prefer to follow the warmth upwards, into a super. On
their first admission into the Nether, a few bees will often be lost
in consequence of their inability to find the way out, so that, as
a precaution, a frequent inspection of the window is at such time
desirable. A small aperture behind, at the bottom or side of the
Nether, may be made, as a mode of exit for the prisoners, to be closed
at pleasure.
BEE SHEDS AND HOUSES.
Under the head of _Hive-covers_ we have shown in what way exposed
hives can be protected from the effects of weather; and where only
one or two of them are kept, any of these might suffice. The case,
however, is altered when a well-stocked apiary is aimed at, requiring
a more complete provision for permanent safety. For this purpose, some
proprietors like a covered shed or verandah, in a well-screened spot,
partially open in the front only. There should be ample space inside
for a passage behind the hives, which may be ranged far enough from the
front to be beyond the reach of wet and too much sun. At page 49, is
given a description of a _Hive-range_ well adapted for a position like
this.