would be much improved by a greater attention to shape, being usually
too high in proportion to the width. It may be well, in this connexion,
to introduce the observation of Gelieu. "One of my chief objects," says
he, "has been to ascertain what shape of hive is the most profitable;
and with this view I have tried all the different kinds, and have
invariably remarked that bees thrive better in low hives than in high
ones; that in general those which are broad and flat amass more honey,
thrive better, and give out stronger and earlier swarms than those
which are high. A hive thrives only in proportion to the success or
perfection of its brood-comb in the spring. It is, therefore, of great
importance to keep up the necessary degree of heat for the hatching
of the brood. If, at that time, the bees are lodged in high and roomy
hives, they will crowd together in vain, and the heat ascending is lost
in the empty space above. This never happens in low flat hives, where
it is more easily concentrated."
To prevent the combs from falling, sticks are commonly put across,
or along the inside of a hive, as a support to them. But these props
are an annoyance to the Bees, presenting difficulty in subsequently
extracting the combs, and are never required in a hive made with a
proper regard to proportion; in other words, where the combs are not
too large to bear their own weight, when fully loaded. As regards
the area of hives, much difference of opinion prevails, and a
certain degree of latitude must be left for circumstances connected
with locality, &c. Credit has been taken by some apiculturists, and
doubtless with reason, for much reducing the unwieldy hives of our
ancestors. On an average, perhaps, a preference may be given, as
regards a common bell-formed straw hive, to one made about fourteen
inches wide, and not more than eight inches high at the centre of the
crown, both inside measure. There will be less of room wasted in a hive
thus formed, inasmuch as the combs are stored down to the bottom cells,
which is rarely the case in a high and narrow one. A low wooden hoop
is often used, worked at the bottom of the hive; or, as Dr. Bevan says,
"the lower round of straw may be begun upon a wooden hoop, the bottom
of which has been planed smooth; it should be perforated through its
whole course, and the perforations made in an oblique direction, so
distant from each other as to cause all the stitches of the hive to
range in a uniform manner." The hoop gives greater stability to the
hive, preserves the lower edge from decay, and affords facility in
moving it.
The custom of plastering round the bottom edge of a hive with mortar or
clay is better omitted. Its own increasing weight will settle it down
to its board: at all events no cement is equal to that used by the bees
themselves; any other only serves to accelerate the decay of the hive,
besides presenting an impediment on occasional removal for cleaning or
inspection.
[Illustration]
STRAW DEPRIVING HIVES.
A reference to the preceding section will show the reasons for giving
a preference to rather shallow common straw hives over high ones, and
the same arguments hold good where they are intended to be managed on
the system usually termed of _Deprivation_; except that then the hive
need be scarcely so large as in the case of single hiving. But to
give facilities for the placing of a second hive, or super, over the
original stock-hive, the latter ought to be made flat on the top, viz.,
cylindrical and straight in form. This shape found an advocate in the
late Mr. Payne,[J] one of the most experienced instructors of Cottage
Bee-keepers, who saw reasons for altering the dimensions of his hives
from twelve inches wide to fourteen, and seven, or sometimes eight,
inches in height (both inside measure), and which I have adopted as
preferable. In the centre of the crown of the hive is a three or four
inch hole. The latter, when not in use, is stopped by a piece of worked
straw, like a mat, as seen in the preceding illustration; and this may
be fastened down by pins or a slight weight. At the proper time for
placing a super, the straw mat cover can be removed, and its place
supplied by what is termed an _adapter_, which is usually a piece of
board the same diameter as the top of the hive, having a corresponding
hole through its centre; thus in fact _adapting_ it as the floor-board
to a super. It will often be better, instead of one thick adapter,
to have two very thin ones, of equal form and size, placed together.
In such case, mahogany or some hard wood should be used, to prevent
warping. On the removal of a full super, this double adapter will be
found useful, as any impediment can be removed by passing between the
two boards a knife, or some fine wire. Or a piece of tin, zinc, or thin
wood may be inserted to entirely stop the communication, if desired, at
any time.
[J] See the 'Bee-keeper's Guide,' by J. H. Payne.
[Illustration]
A straw super is best made of the same flat and cylindrical form as
the stock-hive just described. The size may vary in diameter according
to season and locality, from ten to twelve inches, or even the full
width of the stock-hive, and three to six inches in inside height.
In good years two or more of such supers may sometimes be filled in
succession, the appearance of the hive determining its expediency.
Should the stock-hive become hot and crowded before the first cap is
entirely filled, a second smaller one (or triplet,) may be added. In
such cases, the first super is always to remain the upper one, for it
would be useless to put the triplet anywhere except _between_ the two
now in use, and it must have a two-inch hole in its crown as a passage
upwards for the bees. In moving the first super, the upper half of the
double adapter can be lifted with it, first introducing between them a
piece of zinc or tin, to stop the communication with the stock-hive.
In order to give the straw supers a better footing when placed one
upon another, some persons prefer an extra cord or rim of straw to be
worked round the outer bottom and top band. Or, if they are made plain,
a thin hoop may be slipped round at the point of junction, embracing
them both. A few holes are made in the hoop, for the reception of small
pointed iron pins (easily removable), passing through and into the
straw, and thus keeping it in its place. Those who choose may have the
supers made without crowns, which gives facilities for fitting them up
to serve any required purpose. This is done by means of loose wooden
crown-boards: they may be prevented from warping by being made of two
circular smooth boards glued together, the grain of the wood crossing.
These boards are of different diameters; the smaller circle falls
within the inner diameter of the cap; the other should be made an inch
or more larger, to rest upon the upper edge of it. A reference to the
engraving in the next page will illustrate our meaning. A small weight
for a day or two will adjust the crown to its place; but any little
apertures should in some way be stopped, for the escape of too much
warmth must not be permitted. Mr. Golding does this by an effectual
method: "Any little misfit," says he, "through which the bees may get
out, is best stopped with a bit of tea lead, a store of which should
be kept for such purposes." On removing a full cap, the combs can be
separated from its sides with a knife or spatula, when there will be no
difficulty in lifting up the crown-board with the combs suspended from
it, in an unbroken state; and this often enhances their value.
[Illustration]
Whether with or without the protection of a bee-house, the supers ought
to be covered. For this object an exterior hive or straw cylinder may
be used, similar in form and diameter to the stock-hive, and of any
required height. The zinc shade and its cover, which will be more
particularly described (under the head of hive-covers), suitably
completes a protection of this kind. At present a reference to the
preceding illustrations will suffice. The upper engraving shows a straw
super with its moveable crown-board, and the method of placing it over
a stock-hive; whilst the lower one represents the appearance of the
whole when put together, with zinc shades and a cover.
[Illustration]
We have as yet supposed the stock-hive to be constructed in the
usual way, with a flat straw crown; but many persons are induced to
prefer wood; in which case the hive may be made in the mode pointed
out for the caps, open at both ends alike. The same kind of moveable
crown-board will in that case be suitable; made, as already detailed,
of two circular pieces of wood of different diameters, together about
three fourths of an inch in thickness. A little of some kind of luteing
can, if needed, be used in adjusting the crown-board to its hive; or
the tea lead we have just spoken of may often serve.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
There is another mode of fitting a wood crown. This may be of the same
size as the _outside_ diameter of the hive, a thin hoop being screwed
around its edge, with an inch additional; the whole fitting over as a
cap. A few small pointed iron pins may pass through the lower edge of
the hoop horizontally into the straw, thus sufficiently holding it;
at the same time that its subsequent removal is easy. Instead of a
hoop, I have used a strip of zinc, screwed round, and pinned, as just
mentioned, which fits closer than wood, and when all is painted of one
colour, has a neat appearance. Even without any kind of hoop, the wood
top may be fixed by means of moveable pointed pins going through it,
and down into the upper edge of the hive. Amateurs often prefer the
crown-board cut with three holes, triangularly in position, to a single
central one; as convenience is thus given for working three small
glasses, or a large-sized one, as shown by the circles delineated in
our illustration. The holes may be one and a quarter inch in diameter
at the larger end, tapering two inches down to a point. Three zinc
slides or _dividers_, as they are called, move in grooves, cut two
inches wide from the edge of the crown-board, over the holes. The
supers should be placed each on a separate adapter; and on removal, the
slide is passed underneath the adapter, the whole being then lifted
off together.
Various opinions have prevailed as to the expediency of painting the
exterior of straw hives, some believing that absorption of vapour best
takes place where it is omitted. My own idea is that, for exposed
hives, an annual coat of paint is desirable, and nothing looks better
for the purpose than a natural straw colour. We may resort to the words
of Gelieu, who says, "it is commonly supposed that bees thrive best in
straw hives, because the straw absorbs the moisture, and the combs are
less liable to mould. For my part I can perceive no difference. The
bees are careful enough to varnish over the interior of the straw hives
with a coating of wax, or rather propolis, to prevent the settlement
of the moths; and in the old hives this varnish is so thick that no
moisture can penetrate between the cords of straw. Wooden hives will
also absorb moisture to a certain extent; and experience has shown me
that it is a matter of indifference which are employed, except as to
the price."
HIVE-COVERS.
Whatever difference of opinion there may be as to the expediency of
the practice of placing straw hives in the open air, independently of
a house or shed, the custom prevails to so great an extent, that our
object would be incomplete were we not to point out some of the modes
resorted to for protecting them in such cases. Of the commoner kinds
of coverings many are sufficiently unsightly; some being of straw
thatch (or hackles), others of earthenware, in various ugly forms,
and often objectionable and injurious to the hive, from their weight.
In the apiary of a friend I have seen a dome-formed straw cover to a
stock-hive, constructed with a projection all round of about three
inches. On the underneath side are attached three or four bands in a
circle, fitting over the outer diameter of the hive. The appearance
of this cover is appropriate; but unless carefully painted, wet will
eventually find admittance. It may, however, be rendered water-proof by
means of some kind of cement. I have sometimes used for this purpose
a mixture of paint with fine sawdust, pounded into the consistence of
paste, and afterwards painted and varnished.
[Illustration]
A cover of the same form can be manufactured in zinc, more or less
convex, or sometimes nearly flat, its edges being turned down over
stiff wire. A descending rim of not less than two inches deep is
attached to the underneath side, encircling the upper edge of the hive.
There ought to be perforations immediately under the projection of the
rim, and a space left between the cover and the crown of the hive,
for the passage of air; or a small worked mat, of straw bands, may be
interposed to prevent any ill effect from a hot sun.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
A modification of the last-described zinc cover I have used
satisfactorily for the protecting of flat straw depriving hives,
requiring more than one story in height. Immediately upon the stock-hive
is introduced what, for want of a more distinctive term, I call
a _shade_, encircling the upper edge, as just detailed, with the same
kind of descending rim and air-holes. It is made of moderately thick
sheet zinc, cut of such exterior diameter as to leave a projection
round the outer edge of the hive of three to four inches, and turned
a little downwards over stout wire, to throw off wet. In the centre
of the shade is a circular opening, which, if required, may be of the
same diameter as the interior of the stock-hive, and round it is a
raised rim, standing up not less than half an inch. Within this central
opening it is intended to place the super, of whatever kind it may be.
A reference to what has been said at page 34, and the illustrations
there given, as well as those now annexed, will show the construction
of the shade; also the mode of covering the super by means of a second
straw hive (made with or without a crown), standing upon the shade,
the upright rim of which keeps it in its place. On the top of this
upper hive a second shade, made like the first, may be placed. The
completion of the whole is a slightly convex zinc cap, of about two
inches in height, fitting securely over the central opening, like
the top of a canister or pot. There is a projecting lateral rim to
the cap, underneath which air-holes are made, similar to those under
the projection of the shade. In winter, and at any time when a super
hive is not required, the cap is placed over the shade immediately
surmounting the stock-hive, reducing the edifice to one story. When
feeding is needed by the bees, a pan may be introduced for the purpose
within the central opening, and covered over by the zinc top. In reply
to those who are dubious as to the expediency of using metal coverings,
it may be remarked that no inconvenience arises in the present case, as
neither the shade nor its cover come in contact immediately with the
crown of the hive.
[Illustration]
If a straw cover to a super is preferred, it can stand over the rim of
the shade, as seen in the illustration annexed.
[Illustration]
An effectual protection to a round hive may be made by means of an
outer case, in fact merely a straw cylinder, with open ends. It must
in diameter be large enough to drop loosely over the hive, and rest
on the floor-board. The height ought to be sufficient to include any
supers that may be required. Surmounting the whole, either one of the
zinc covers, shown at page 39, of an enlarged size, can be used; or the
shade and its top, as seen at page 40.
FLOOR OR HIVE-BOARDS.
The floor on which a hive is placed should be of wood, and not of any
material too retentive either of heat or cold, as stone, slate, &c.
In summer, the melting of the combs often results, and in winter,
numerous lives are lost from chill. Every hive, of whatever kind,
should stand upon its own separate board, so as to give facility for
lifting, cleaning, or weighing the whole together at any time, without
disturbance to the bees.
[Illustration]
The entrance into a hive is generally cut out of its bottom edge. This
has a tendency to cause decay in that part, particularly if of straw;
besides that, a hole so made affords but indifferent protection from
driving wet or a scorching sun, and gives imperfect facility for the
escape of moisture from the hive. It is a better plan to sink the
passage out of the thickness of the floor-board, till it reaches the
inside of the hive. There are several ways of doing this, but a simple
one is the following: Let the board be of thick, seasoned wood, and to
prevent warping, screw two strong cross-bars to the underneath side,
seven or eight inches apart. In size the floor-board ought to be a
little larger than the exterior of the hive, from whence it should be
chamfered down every way, to three eighths of an inch at the edge. From
the latter, the entrance must be cut or grooved out, straight and level
till it enters the inside of the hive, when it may slope upwards. This
groove may be about four inches wide, and three eighths of an inch deep
where the hive crosses it; for it is better in all instances that the
requisite space at the door should be given laterally, rather than in
height. This is not only more convenient to the bees, but shuts out
from admission into the hive such guests as the snail or the mouse. In
a board thus constructed a convenient mode of occasionally contracting
the entrance-way is by means of small wooden blocks, of different
widths, so formed that the lower half can be pushed within the hive's
mouth. The board just described, and its blocks, are shown in the
engraving beneath.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Another kind of hive-board, suitable for some description of boxes, is
made by cutting a rabbet of any required width, and three-eighths of
an inch deep, on all its sides, leaving the raised part of the board
the size of the outside of the box, with an additional half inch beyond
this, every way. The passage into the hive is to be cut from the edge
of the rabbet, and on the same level, for about two inches; after which
it must slope upwards. It may be four to five inches wide, and its
sides should bevel a little outwards. This gives facilities for the
introduction of moveable blocks or mouth-pieces, for the convenience of
contracting or altogether stopping up the entrance, as may be required.
The blocks are an inch wide, and must all be of one size, and of the
same length and bevel as the entrance-way. In height they should be
three quarters of an inch in front; cut down behind, half the width to
three eighths of an inch. Thus made, the lowest half inch of the block
is inserted within the mouth of the hive, and the other half projects
on the outside. To suit all cases and seasons, blocks so formed
may be cut on the lower part, from front to back, with any required
passage-way through them at pleasure. The preceding engraving exhibits
one of these boards, with a front and back view of four blocks thus
varied; the third one being fitted with perforated zinc.
An entirely covered entrance, for those who desire it, is afforded by a
double board, in which the passage is cut through the floor, altogether
within the hive; and it may be thus made:
[Illustration]
Take a piece of inch seasoned wood, an inch or two broader and longer
than the hive. Smooth both sides, and underneath it cut a groove four
or five inches wide, and four inches back from the edge. The part
next the edge should be there hollowed out three eighths of an inch
deep, increasing to double this at the other end, where it enters the
hive. An opening through from the upper side must be made, to meet
the underneath hollow, giving a gradual slope down into it. A piece
of three-quarter inch board, seven to nine inches wide, must then be
screwed underneath, the grain crossing the other; the doorway for
the bees being of course between the two. The lower board should be a
little the longest, the extra length being intended to form a small
alighting board in front.
All the boards in the preceding illustrations are shown square as to
form; but any of them may at pleasure be made round.
HIVE-STANDS, OR PEDESTALS.
[Illustration]
Hives standing singly, in the open air, must be so placed as that there
is no risk of their being overthrown by the wind or other casualty, and
various kinds of supports have been devised. Whatever is preferred, it
ought to afford facilities for allowing the lifting up of the hive on
its board at pleasure. A single pedestal or post is sometimes used,
cut flat at the top to six or seven inches square. It may stand out of
the ground fifteen or sixteen inches, and be firmly fixed, to avoid
shaking, which alarms the bees. Sometimes a higher elevation than this
is given, but it is not expedient to subject the hives unnecessarily
to the action of the wind, any more than it is to place them so near
the ground as to cause the bees to be affected by damp exhalations. On
the under side of the centre of the hive-board fix four bars of wood
(or three will do), of about two inches square, so as to form a cap or
socket, fitting over the top of the pedestal. The board may be there
secured by the insertion, diagonally, of one or two pins, through the
sides of the cap and into the post. This plan may be varied by means
of the two pieces or arms, let edgewise flush into the top of a post,
crossing it diagonally: on this the hive-board may rest, or be secured
by a button or two.
Or, on the top of a pedestal, four or five inches in diameter, a piece
of board, of about nine inches square, may be fixed as a table. Upon
this place the hive-board, of which the cross bars, appended to its
underneath side, are so adjusted in point of distance apart, as to come
on each side of the table, being there secured by a pin or turn-button.
[Illustration]
This last-described stand may be improved, at a little further cost.
Nail upon the pedestal a piece of strong board, eight or nine inches
wide, and three inches longer than the outside width of the hive-board.
Underneath the table thus formed, a couple of struts or angle-pieces
must be fixed, to render the whole firm. The under-side bars of the
hive-board are adjusted to fall on each side the table, as before
detailed. The extra three inches of the latter must be thrown to the
front, where it is designed to form a projecting alighting platform for
the bees. This part is occupied by a piece of wood nailed to it, and
chamfered to meet the hive-board, to which it forms a stay.
[Illustration]
Another support to an out-door hive is made by means of four props,
driven upright into the ground, and cut off level, at about sixteen
inches high. The hive-board must have two cross bars screwed to its
under side, from front to back, just coming within the uprights: to
make it still more steady, four small blocks can be appended near the
corners, between the cross bars and the edge of the board, to hold the
latter in the opposite direction, as seen by the dotted lines in our
illustration.
The same remark applies to the hive-stands just described as was made
in the last section, viz., they can be adapted equally well to round
as to square hive-boards. It may be well also to observe that, instead
of sinking a pedestal into the earth, where decay soon ensues, it can
be fixed upon strong cross pieces or feet, these being fastened to the
ground by pins passing downwards through them.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Where there are a number of hives, instead of a separate stand for
each, they may be placed more economically, and perhaps safely, on
what I term a _hive-range_, of any required length. The range consists
simply of a couple of rails, about an inch thick, and four inches in
depth, nailed to the top outer edge of a series of posts, fixed firmly
in or on the ground, about eighteen inches high. The space between
the rails may be about twelve inches, measured withinside. The most
suitable hive-board for a range is that shown at page 43. The cross
bars on its underneath side must be so cut in point of length, as to
fall within the two rails, where they are held; whilst what remains of
the width of the board lodges upon them, with a convenient projection
before and behind. Nor does it matter whether the hive-boards are made
square or round. A range of this kind occupies very little space, and
presents few facilities for the incursions of insects or other annoyers
of bees. The hives ought to have a good interval between each; but it
is an advantage that on this plan they can be moved, by sliding the
boards to the right or left, if circumstances call for it. A range
on the same principle might readily be made ornamentally, in part or
wholly of iron, standing on feet, moveable anywhere, and setting vermin
at defiance.