SIGHTS IN CAIRO.
All was bustle that morning. We had scarcely finished breakfast before
two or three parties of travellers set off for Sinai and Palestine; then
the passengers for India prepared to start. Before noon we were settled
in comfortable quarters.
Shepheard's Hotel (which was burnt down some few years afterwards) stood
in a large, handsome square, called the Uzbeekeh, laid out like a garden
and planted with beautiful acacias, which give a delightful shade.
Almost every procession passes through the Uzbeekeh, serpent charmers
and jugglers make it the place for showing off their tricks, and there
is always something going on in it.
[Illustration]
Some of our party had business at the consulate, and they promised to
take Hugh and Lucy out first and show them a little of the town.
At the end of an hour and a half the children came back in great
excitement.
[Illustration: EASTERN VEIL.]
"Oh! such lovely things," cried Lucy, chattering as fast as lips and
tongue could move. "Such lovely things we have seen! and curious women
with their faces bandaged up, and only two holes left for their eyes,
and--"
She stopped for want of breath.
Hugh went on: "Yes; and there was such a noise of shouting and screaming
among all the donkey-boys, to make people get out of their way. And I
think my donkey-boy screamed louder than any. It was such fun."
"And the beautiful things in the shop, Hugh! There were bracelets, and
slippers, and carpets, and shawls, and all sorts of things. I never saw
any bazaar half so beautiful."
"And there is a grand procession, and they say it is sure to pass by
here. Come, Lucy, come and watch for it."
We all went to the window, and were just in time to see the procession
pass.
It was headed by two wrestlers, who played all kinds of antics, and
asked every well-dressed passer-by for money. Then came two more men,
wearing a sort of helmet, and carrying shields and swords. They
flourished the swords, and twisted themselves about in such a curious
way, and made such funny faces, that we all laughed heartily. These men
were followed by musicians, who played on pipes, flutes, cymbals,
tambourines, guitars made out of cocoa-nuts, violins with only one
string, and a sort of drum called darabookha, beaten with the hand
instead of with drum-sticks. Besides the sound of all these instruments,
there was such a singing and clapping of hands that the noise was quite
deafening.
Behind the musicians came a camel carrying a machine, something like
Punch's show-box, covered with gilding. The camel had red leather
trappings, ornamented with shells. Then we saw six led horses, and on
them were six little boys, very handsomely dressed in clothes worked
with gold. They were followed by some people on foot.
[Illustration: SIGHTS IN CAIRO.]
Next came another band of musicians like the first. After them, a number
of young women, covered up to their eyes and over their heads with large
shawls, and holes left for their eyes just to peep through. They carried
large bouquets of fresh flowers.
Now came the grandest person of all, the bride.
She was covered from head to foot, eyes and all, by a large scarlet
shawl, which reached down to her yellow boots. A circle of gold, studded
with sham diamonds, was bound round her head, over the shawl. As she
could not see, she was led by two of her relations--women, who were
muffled up in black silk. A canopy of yellow silk, with four gilt poles,
was carried over her head by four men, dressed in grand robes and
turbans.
Behind the bride came a number of her relations, all women, and all
muffled up in black silk. The procession was closed by a number of hired
women, who made shrill cries, as the custom is in Cairo on all joyful
occasions.
After a hearty laugh at the men who headed the procession, Hugh and Lucy
had watched it without speaking. Now they began to talk as fast as
before.
"How uncomfortable to have to walk with that heavy shawl over her face,"
said Lucy.
"Yes," Hugh answered. "I should hate that; and what a noise the
musicians made! I am sure it was not a bit like music. I liked the camel
and the horses the best. But look! here is a serpent-charmer; and now,
see! such a grand man coming!"
As he spoke, an Arab rushed by at full speed, cracking a long whip to
clear the way. He was followed by an Egyptian gentleman, mounted on a
horse covered with velvet and gold and tassels. His pipe-bearer, on a
splendid horse, rode close behind him.
This was the beginning of our sight-seeing in Cairo.