MAKING RIVETED BOOTS AND SHOES.
When once the principles of lasting, explained in Chapter V., are
understood, the process of making riveted boots and shoes is by no
means a difficult one. It is a very ready way, and also a very cheap
way, of making a good strong covering for the foot.
Riveted work will need a last made of iron, or one having an iron
bottom, which may be made by putting an iron plate upon an ordinary
wooden last. If making for your own feet only, the latter would be
best. If making for customers, buy iron lasts, one at a time, till
a set of sizes is obtained. If making for your own children, who
naturally grow out of boots very quickly, it is well to use an ordinary
wooden last. In this case be very careful not to use the rivets too
long, and when off the last, clench the rivets on a small iron foot.
[Illustration: Fig. 175.--Thin Sheet Iron to cover Last.]
On p. 64 will be found all the information needed for buying the lasts
and fitting them up to the measure of the foot. A thin sheet of iron,
as Fig. 175, with three holes in it, at A, A, and A, can be
made to cover the whole of the bottom. The sheet-iron should be blocked
so as to fit the last’s bottom perfectly. It can be held on by six
screws, as shown by the six B’s. This will allow the iron to be taken
off when the last is wanted to make hand-sewn work on.
This sheet of iron would make the boots too large; but this is
remedied by putting a pair of extra inner soles, the thickness of the
sheet-iron. These soles, blocked and dried on the last, make a pair of
riveted boots as smooth as hand-sewn inside.
The inner sole proper is tacked at A, A, A, Fig. 176, and
rounded up to the last. It is skived down a little at the waist only,
and then merely at the edge.
[Illustration: Fig. 176.--Boot Bottom with Blinders and Split-lift on
Heel.]
Chapter IV. (p. 70) gives information on buying the tops and sole
leather; but for riveted work welts are not wanted, but, instead, a
piece of soft first-cut about 14 in. long and 2 in. wide. This treated
like split-lifts will make a pair of runners. Proceed to wet and fit
it as described for welts; but it must be used nearly dry, and the
stiffeners can be skived on the bottom the same as on the top.
The principles of lasting are the same as those described in Chapter
V., to which reference should be made; but for riveted work use very
short tingles (miniature tin-tacks), in place of lasting tacks; and
instead of these being put in as shown at B, B, D, D, and C (Fig. 87,
p. 78), they are put in at the extreme edge of the overlapping leather,
and are knocked right in and clenched. Also, in lasting for riveting,
the heel of the last must be knocked into the top more at D (Fig. 84,
p. 75), so that there is enough stuff for the rivets to catch while
building the heel; the heel should be lasted in nearly as well as the
toe, so that when the lasting is finished the upper should be quite
smooth all round. The centre should be filled up with a little felt,
and the whole bottom made flat and level all over. The way to put the
felt and the shank-piece in the waist is described on p. 52.
For a boot of very light substance, the sole can now be put on; but to
make medium or stout boots, put on the runner, or put on a middle sole,
and then skive the centre of it a little. If the runner is put on, it
will need preparing in the same way as a split-lift, described on p.
99, only the twist will not be wanted up the sides, but merely at the
toe end, or centre, of the runner. It must be tingled on all round, not
using many tingles, and these as far from the edge as possible, so that
while the sole is being put on, the rivets will not come in contact
with and drive them through, and so tend to make the sole unsolid. The
position of the runner is shown by A, B, C (Fig. 177), the
ends can be skived off at A and C.
[Illustration: Fig. 177.--Boot Lasted ready for Riveting.]
If a middle sole is used, it is put all over the forepart as far as
A, C, where it will also want skiving. To fit the sole on
while rounding it up, put in a few iron brads about ¹⁄₂ in. long--not
rivets--and leave them projecting about ¹⁄₈ in., or little more, as
shown by the short strokes near the A’s in Fig. 176; file up these till
they are somewhat pointed, then the centre and the edge can be pasted.
A pair of soles of inferior quality towards the heel would be less
costly; with these it is best to make the seat with a pair of good
split-lifts instead of with the soles. The split-lifts can be bradded
on, as shown by B, B, B, with ¹⁄₂ in. brads, and they can be driven in
and clenched. The runner or the split-lift can be rounded up all round,
to within ³⁄₁₆ in. of the upper. This allows enough in the forepart to
imitate a welt and to make the seat at the heel.
The sole is now pasted, and laid on its place, and a brad driven in at
C, Fig. 176. It can then be tapped down all over with the flat end of
the hammer, first striking gently over each of the brads marked A, and
then continuing till it is all flat and smooth, as Fig. 178. The sole
is now rounded up to the runner and split-lift, and to within ¹⁄₈ in.
of the upper at the waist on each side; all this should be done to give
as good form to the boot as possible.
[Illustration: Fig. 178.--The Riveted Sole.]
The instruction to leave on ³⁄₁₆ in. all round the forepart must be
qualified. Do so, if the wearer wears straight; if, however, he wears
unevenly, leave the stuff a little full where the most wear comes, and
trim it close on the other side.
Now rivet the sole on. If not used to driving rivets, make holes to
receive them, and in doing this, and in driving the rivets, see that
their points incline distinctly inward, or the rivets may run off the
edge of the last instead of clenching. If the work is light, the holes
can be made near to the edge, as the sole will in this case need to be
a shade closer; while for stout work the rivets can be a trifle farther
from the edge of the sole. A second row may be put all round, or only
at E and F; but the single row even would be enough for light work.
If the heel part is not flat, it is better to put a second split-lift
on the sole; or the first whole lift may be put on, skiving away the
centre till it fits. How to finish building the heels, and the way to
brad the top piece, is described on pp. 114, 115.
If the boots have been made upon wood lasts, without iron on them, at
this stage the last should be withdrawn, the whole of the bottom tapped
down on the iron foot, and the last then replaced. The rivets may be
driven with a hammer, but it is easier to do this with a beater, as
shown on p. 122, or with a driver like Fig. 179, which is a patent
rivet-driver (price 1s. 6d., made of hardened steel). A similar one can
be made by heating an old long rasp, and beating it somewhat smooth,
and then re-tempering it.
[Illustration: Fig. 179.--Rivet Driver.]
Knifing-up, rasping, buffing, sand-papering, etc., breasting heels,
seat setting, finishing-off waist, setting-up fudge-wheel on welt (or
runner in this case), putting into colour, and finishing, etc., are
explained in Chapter VIII.
Having followed these directions, the boots are off the last, and all
that is now necessary is to sock them. If made on last to the correct
size, sock them as described on p. 146; if made upon the wood last with
the extra iron bottom, sock them with a second inner sole. Take the
sheet iron off the last, block the sock, let it dry, and then round and
skive it up. Paste it well all over the flesh side, put it in the boot.
Replace the last without the iron in the boot, and let the sock dry
before taking out the last. French chalk can be shaken in the boot to
prevent the last sticking to the sock and pulling it out.
While the boots are on the last they may be cleaned, as they will not
be soiled by taking out the last this time.
To avoid repeating information that has already appeared, references
have been given above to pages in which some of the processes connected
with boot and shoe making are described.
In making riveted, pegged, or machine-sewn boots, the tops are cut
longer and wider than they would be for hand-sewn work. From ¹⁄₄ in. to
¹⁄₂ in. more stuff is left on all round the bottom of the uppers. In
this class of work the rivets, pegs, or stitches are nearer the centre
of the sole than hand-sewing is. The welt is sewn in nearer the edge,
and any upper leather above the seam has to be cut off close to the
welt. As a rule, the leather is not subjected to any special treatment
to soften it, though, if very stubborn, it can be made softer by
damping it with water.
All leather will form wrinkles and pipes in lasting--at the toe
especially, at the extreme edge of the leather. Any other work is
easier to last than hand-sewn, in which there is only just enough upper
leather to hold with the pincers. While lasting the toe, put a few
tingles in only, say, one in the centre, then the draft tacks, one on
each side. Last up the lining first, knocking the tingles only just
through the inner sole, so that they may be drawn out when lasting the
upper. When doing this, see that you last the lining smooth previous to
proceeding with the upper. Then place a tingle between the centre and
draft tacks. There will now be a pucker on each side; these you try to
tap or hammer out before putting in more tacks. Every tack put in after
should be through the top of one of these pipes, or puckers; and when
the toe has enough tacks in it, well hammer it all round, starting at
the edge of the sole, and working towards its centre, till you get to
the edge of the toe-leather. All the pipes will not be got out by this
means, so cut a ~V~-piece out of each remaining, and then tap it down
again, or the tops of the ridges may be skived off. In either case,
cut only to within about ³⁄₈ in. or ¹⁄₄ in. of the edge of the last, so
that the rivets, pegs, or stitches shall have firm and solid leather to
go through. By the above means light leather tops can be lasted without
the use of the knife at all.
* * * * *
This chapter may conclude with a few recipes which the shoemaker is
sure to find useful at some time or other.
SHOEMAKERS’ SIZE.--This is made in the following manner: Ingredients,
¹⁄₄ lb. yellow soap, twopenny-worth of glue, and one quart of soft
water. Process: Cut the soap up fine, and break the glue into small
pieces; put them into a saucepan, and pour the water over them; put
it on the fire, and well stir it till it just boils. Pour it out into
another vessel to cool It is then ready for use.
BURNISHING INK.--To make good burnishing ink, you will hardly be likely
to better the following, which is an American recipe: One pint of
alcohol, 1¹⁄₂ oz. of tincture of iron, 1 oz. of extract of logwood,
1 oz. of pulverised nut-galls, ¹⁄₂ pt. of soft water, and ¹⁄₂ oz. of
sweet oil; the oil must be mixed with the alcohol prior to adding the
water and other ingredients.
Another: Soft water, 5 gallons; bring it to a boil, and add 8 ozs. of
pulverised logwood extract, keeping it on the fire for three minutes
only; then remove, and stir in 2¹⁄₂ oz. of gum arabic, 1 oz. of
bichromate of potash, and 80 grs. of prussiate of potash.
Another: Soft water, 1 gallon; extract of logwood, 1 oz.; boil till the
extract is dissolved, take from the fire, and add 2 ozs. of copperas
and ¹⁄₂ oz. each of bichromate of potash and gum arabic, all well
powdered.
BLACK AND WHITE HEEL-BALLS.--To make black heel-balls, take 8 ozs.
of the best beeswax and 1 oz. of tallow, melt, and well stir; then
add 1 oz. of very finely powdered gum arabic, stir again, and mix in
lampblack to colour. Another and better recipe is to melt together 2
lbs. of best beeswax and 3 ozs. of suet, and stir in 4 ozs. of ivory
black and 3 ozs. of lampblack; then add 2 ozs. of finely-powdered gum
arabic (best) and 2 ozs. of rock candy. These must be well mixed, and,
when partly cold, poured into leaden moulds to the shape and size you
wish.
For white or bottom ball, leave out the above colours, and if wanted
only as a transparent polish this will suffice; but if needed as a
white substance, add a little flake white.
SHOEMAKER’S WAX.--Take 4 ozs. of pitch, 1 oz. of resin, and about a ¹⁄₄
oz. of good tallow, and heat them well on a slow fire in a pipkin or
old saucepan. Be very careful they do not take fire, as they are very
combustible. Stir this admixture till the resin has melted and mixed
well with the other ingredients; then pour the whole into a pail of
cold water, and when it has got sufficiently cool to handle, put one
hand underneath, and with the other turn the edges over to the centre,
to make the mixture into one ball. Take it out, and make it into a
roll. Take one end in each hand, and pull it out as long as you can
without breaking it. Double it, and pull out again and again; the more
it is pulled (or worked), the better and brighter it will be. This
done, lay it out on a slab, seeing it does not stick. Roll it out, cut
it into strips about 1 in. wide, and cut the strips into pieces about
1¹⁄₂ in. long; each piece is called a ball. Wax has to be made hard in
warm weather, and soft in cold. To make it softer, add more tallow; to
make hard, use more resin. It is best to make it hard, as it can easily
be made soft without being again heated--simply by working a little
tallow into it. The balls of wax should always be kept in water, to
prevent their sticking to anything or to each other.
MAKING FAKE.--Fake is not sold ready for use, but it can be made in
the following way: Take two hard heel-balls and about two-thirds of a
white glazing ball, break them up into small pieces, and put them into
a small tin box. Proper fake tins can be bought; any tin will do, but
the deeper the rim of the lid is the better, as it will prevent the
spirit evaporating when not in use. Just cover the contents of the tin
with mineral naptha, and then put the whole on the hob or in the oven;
but the fire must not be fierce, the lid must not be on the box, and it
must be well watched, for this process, of course, rarefies the spirit
and intensifies its inflammability. The use of fake is to lessen the
labour in finishing, for if heel-ball is ironed on, it is very hard to
rub off. It is used after the edge has been knifed, rasped, scraped,
sand-papered, inked, dried, and nicely ironed with warm irons, which
gives it, in itself, a good gloss. The fake is rubbed on with the
finger, and when it has set a little, it should be rubbed off with a
soft cloth till it leaves a bright even jet-black gloss. Brown work is
finished in the same way, and the fake is made just the same, only all
white ball is used, and not any heel ball.
INDEX.
A
Awl, Heel, 104
----, Home-made, for Heeling, 12, 13
---- for Pegging on Sole, 110
----, Sewing, 57
----, Square or Stitching, 57, 94
----, Straight, Fine, 110
B
Beater, Corner, 122
---- for Driving Rivets, 152
----, Welt, 122
Beginners, Suitable Work for, 16
Bench, Shoemakers’, 18
Bevelled Appearance of Boot Soles, 134
Block Finish for Bottoms and Top-pieces, 139
Blacking Stitches, 36
Blind Welts, 95
Blinders, Use of, 113
Blinding on Top Piece, 115
Blind-stabbing, 40-43
---- Makeshift, 44
Blocking Insoles, 72
Boot, Position of, when Re-welting, 54-56
----, ---- ----, for Ironing, 137
----, ---- ----, for Pricking up the Stitch, 136
----, ---- ----, for Stitching on the Sole, 57
Boots, Calf, Cleaning, 147
---- Falling to Pieces, 23
----, Hand-made: how they are put together, 58
----, Machine- and Hand-sewn, 19
----, Riveted, Making, 148, 153
----, Standard Screw, to distinguish, 19
Bottoms, Buff, 140
----, Damped-down, 140
----, Fillings for, 52
----, Finishing, 139
----, White, 141
Brad, French, 13
Bradding Heel-pieces, 14
Breasting the Heels, 129
Bristles for Ends of Threads, 61
Buffing-Knife, 28, 126
---- ----, Sharpening, 126
Bunion Pieces, Pegging on to Lasts, 67
Burnisher, Double-handed, 140, 143
Burnishing Ink, 155
C
Calf Boots, Cleaning, 147
Casting Model of Foot in Plaster, 69
Cement for fastening Gutta-percha Sole, 30
Chair for Shoemakers, 18
Channel, Rubbing down, 58
Channelling the Sole, 91
Cleaning Calf Boots, 147
Closing in a Patch, 32
Cloth for cleaning off Heel-ball, 139
Colouring the Soles, 136
Corners, Knocking down, 122
Corns and Bunions, Allowing for in Fitting Lasts, 68
Cost of Grindery, 9
Creaking, To Prevent, 89
Crease Iron, 142
Cut Bill, 14
D
Draft Tacks, 77
Drawing Stitches Tight, 61
F
Fake, Making, 156
----, Using, 156
Faults in Heel-making, 116, 117
Feather, Tapping Down, 147
Felt for Bottom Fillings, 52
Fittings for Lasts, 66
Flax for Stitching and Sewing, 60, 84
Flexura Spring, 111
---- Waist, 143
Fudge-wheel, 59, 135
G
Glazer, Double-handed, 140, 143
Glazing Ball, White, 142
---- Iron, 29, 134
Glue, Le Page’s Fish, 68
Graft, Sewn, 53
Grafting Welts, 54, 55
Grindery, Cost of, 9
Guard for Knife when Trimming, 106
Gum-dragon for Finishing Waists, 142
Gutta-Percha, How to Buy, 9
----, Increasing wear-resisting Qualities of, 31
---- Soles, 29, 30
H
Half-heeling, 10, 11, 14
Half-tips, Leather-plugged, 15
Hammering the Upper, 81
---- Leather, 72
Hand-leather, 61
Hand-sewn Boots, To distinguish from Machine-sewn, 19
---- ----, how they are put together, 58
Heel Awl, 104
---- Making, 99-119
Heel-ball, Black, 155
----, Cleaning off, 139
----, Use of, 138
----, White, 142, 155
Heel-shave, 123
Heels, Bradding, 14
----, Breasting, 129
----, Buffing, 126
----, Completing, 114
----, Dressing, 106
----, Faults in, 116, 117
----, Fixing with Screws, 16
----, Horsing the Back of, 76
----, Importance of Keeping Level, 9, 11
----, Military, 118
----, Peening, 106, 123
----, Pitch of, 104
----, Range and Pitch of, 117, 118
----, Sand-papering, 127
----, Sewing down, 104, 105
----, Shape of, 118
Holing Inner Sole, 73
Hook, Last, 144
Horsing the Back of Heel, 76
I
Ink, Burnishing, 155
Inking the Soles, 136
Inner Sole, Holing, 73
Insoles, Blocking, 72
Instep Leather, 67
Invisible Patches, 37-40
Iron, Crease, 142
----, Double, 132
----, Forepart, 133
----, Lap, 20
----, Waist, 132
Ironing, 134, 137, 138, 153
Irons, 20, 130-134, 142
----, Heating, 137
J
Joint Leather, 67
K
Knife for Breasting Heels, 129
Knife, Buffing, 126
----, ----, Sharpening, 126
----, Welt, 128
Knifing-up the Seat, 130
---- ---- the Sole, 89, 90, 120
---- ---- Waist, 122
L
Lamp, Spirit, for Heating Irons, 137
Lap Iron, 20
Last Fitting, Preparatory to Re-soling, 50
---- Hook, 144
----, Shape of, 25, 65
----, Taking out of Boots, 144
Lasting Light Leather Tops, 154
----, Principles of, 75
---- Riveted Boots and Shoes, 149
---- Stout Leather, 78
---- Tack, 76
---- the Toe, 79, 80, 153
---- the Top, 108
Lasts, Fitting up to Measure, 64
----, ---- to Shape of Foot, 68
----, Fittings for, 66
----, German made, 65
----, Iron, Filling up, 68
----, Measuring for, 23, 62-64
---- for Riveted Boots, 69
Leather for Awl Handle, 13
---- for Boot Bottoms, 70
---- Hand, Making, 61
---- Joint, 67
----, Quality of, 69
----, Worked “and Unworked,” 10
----, Wrinkles and Pipes in, 78, 153
Levelling up for Re-soling, 25
---- the Welt, 128
Lifts, Cutting away, 129
----, Split, for Heels, Making, 99
----, ----, Pegging on, 108
----, ----, Putting on the Heels, 101, 102
----, ----, for Riveted Boots, 153
Long Leather, 67
Loop-stitching, 46
M
Machine-sewn and Hand-sewn Boots, Distinguishing between, 19
---- Boots and Shoes, Re-soling, 21
Materials for Soling and Heeling, 9
Measuring for Lasts, 23, 62-64
P
Paring Soles, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91
Paste for Shoemakers, 18
Pasting Socks, 146
Patch, Closing in, 32
Patches, Cutting to Size, 37
----, Difference between Closed and Invisible, 38
----, Invisible, 37-40
Patching, 32-49
Pattern of Half-heel Piece, Cutting, 12
Peening the Heel, 106, 123
---- the Sole, 28, 123
Peg-Knife, 145
---- Rasp, 145
Pegged Seat, Making, 107
---- Waist, Fitting Inner Sole for, 112
---- Work, Lasts for, 69
Pegging on Sole and Solepiece, 110
---- ---- Split-lift, 108
Pincers, 80
Pipes in Leather, Removing, 78, 154
Plaster Cast of Foot, Making, 69
Position of Boot for Pricking up the Stitch, 136
---- ---- ---- when Re-welting, 54, 56
---- ---- ---- when Stitching on the Sole, 57, 58
Prick-stitch, Use of, 73
Protectors, Boot, Use of, 31
R
Rasp for Smoothing, 124, 125
Rasping, 124
Re-welting and Re-soling Hand-sewn Boots, 50
Rivet Driver, 152
Riveted Boots, Lasts for, 69, 148
---- ----, Making, 148, 153
Rivets, Iron and Brass, 27
----, their Positions on the Sole, 26
---- for Soling, 23
---- their Use in Half-heeling, 11, 15
Roughness on Insides, Removing, 145
Rounding the Sole, 89, 90
Rubbing down Channel, when Re-soling, 58
---- ---- Stitches, 36
Runner for Pegged Work, 113
---- for Riveted Work, 150
---- or Welt, 21
S
Sand-papering, 127
Sands’ Solution, 37
Scraper, 28
Screws for Fixing Heels, 17
Seat, Making up, 130
----, Stitching, 47
Seat, Trimming, 106
Seat-breaker, 107
Seat-Socks, 145
Seat-wheel, 130
Seatpiece, Leather for, 98
Set-off Stuff, Cost of, 70
---- ---- ----, Preparing for Use, 71
Sewing, 34, 36
---- Awl, 57
---- down the Heel, 104, 105
---- in the Seat, 87, 88
----, Technical Meaning of, 57
----, Thread for, 60
----, Tightening Stitches in, 61
---- Upper to Inner Sole, 109
---- Welts, 51, 54
Sewn Graft, 53
Shank, 53
Sharpening Buffing-Knife, 126
---- Strop, 17
Side Linings, 74
---- Pin, 76
Size, Shoemakers’, 155
Skiving, 37, 45
Smoothing Insides of Boots, 145
Snow’s Leather-Plugged Half-tips, 15
Socks for Ladies’ Boots and Shoes, 146
----, Putting, into Boots, 146
---- for Riveted Boots, 152
Sole, Channelling, 91
----, Colouring, 136
----, Dividing, 72
----, Fitting in Riveted Boots, 150
----, Inking, 136
----, Inner, Holing, 73
----, Paring, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91
----, Peening, 28, 113
----, Riveted, 151
----, Rounding or Knifing-up, 89, 90
----, Rubbing down, 97
----, Stitching on, 53
Sole-plane, 125
Soles, Bevelled Appearance of, 134
----, Gutta-percha, 29, 30
----, Inferior, Using, 150
----, Old, Taking off, 21
Solution, Sands’, 37
----, Warman’s, 37, 39
Solvent for “Invisible” Patches, 37
Spring, Flexura, 111
Springs, 70
Split-lifts for Heels, Making, 99
----, Pegging on, 108
----, Putting on the Heels, 101, 102
---- for Riveted Boots, 150
Spring Waists, Finishing, 142
Squares, 70
Standard Screw Boots, To Distinguish, 19
Stands for Lasts, 23
Stiffeners, 74
Stitch, Drawing, 48
Stitches, Blacking, 36
----, Mode of Setting in Re-soling, 59
----, Rubbing Down, 36
----, Yellow, on Welt, 93
Stitching, 34, 36, 95, 96
---- Awl, 57, 94
----, Hemp and Flax for, 60, 84
----, Loop, 46
----, Seat, 47
---- on Soles, 56, 59
----, Technical Meaning of, 57
----, Thread for, 60, 84
Stripe Waist, 141
Strop, Sharpening, 17
T
Tacking the Inner Sole, 149
Tacks, Draft, 77
---- for Lasting, 76
Tapping Down the Feather, 147
Thread, 34, 36, 60
----, Breaking, 60
---- for Sewing Welts, 84
----, Smoothing, 60
----, Waxing, 60, 87
Tingles for Riveted Work, 149
Tips, Half, Leather-plugged, 15
Toe, Lasting, 79, 80, 153
Toe-cap, Loose, to Sew on, 48
Toe Piecing, 46
---- Pin, 66
Tools for Repairing, 18, 31
Top-pieces, Finishing, 142
----, Blinding on, 115
Trimming the Seat, 106
U
Under-sole, Fixing, 22
Underlaying, 16, 44, 45
Uppers, Cracks in, 35
----, Hammering, 81
----, Various Kinds of, 69
W
Waist-iron, 130, 131
Waists, Pegged, 113
----, Creasing, 143
----, Fiddle, 140, 141
----, Finishing, 140, 142
----, Flexura, 143
----, Lining, 143
----, Marking off, 136, 143
----, Polishing, 142
----, Spring, Finishing, 142
----, Square, 89, 132
----, Stripe, 141, 142
Warman’s Solution, 37, 39
Wax, Shoemakers’, 156
Wax-end, 34
Waxing Threads, 60, 87
Wear, One-sided, Allowing for, 151
Welt-Beater, 122
---- Knife, 128
Welts, 21, 70
----, Blind, 95, 136
----, Cost of, 51
---- for Dress Shoes, 83
----, Levelling, 128
----, Machine-sewn, 19
----, Preparing for Use, 51, 82
---- of Riveted, Pegged and Machine-sewn Boots, 153
----, Rounding Edges of, 52
----, Sewing, 51, 54, 83-87
----, Width of, 83
Wing, New, 35
Wrinkles and Pipes in Leather, 78, 153
Y
Yellow Stitches on Welt, 93
PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C.
30.1097
Transcriber’s Notes
The text used is that of the original publication; inconsistencies in
spelling, hyphenation and lay-out have been retained.
Illustrations have been moved outside text paragraphs.
Some minor typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected
silently; some page numbers in the Index have been corrected to
conform to the text.
Page 93: ...it will need to be twisted lighter than sewing-thread...
changed to ...it will need to be twisted tighter than
sewing-thread....