MAKING THE HEEL.
The split-lifts to form the heel are made from a piece of butt leather,
generally first-cut, as it requires to be tight, and must be supple.
The piece should be about 7 in. long and 1 in. wide; this, split down
the centre while quite wet, makes a pair.
[Illustration: Fig. 103.--Cutting Split-lifts.]
The splitting is done as follows:--Place the leather (Fig. 103), grain
side up, on a board held upon the knees, let the left-hand thumb rest
at A, and the little finger at B. With the first, second, and third
fingers press upon the leather to keep the part marked C firm on the
board. The knife, held in a slanting position, is put in at D, on top,
and passed through to E on the other side. The knife is drawn along
the dotted line D until it reaches F, with the point on the lower
side, and following the dotted line C to A. This splitting gives two
wedge-shaped strips of leather, A, B, as shown (Fig. 104). If
not made quite to this shape while splitting, trim them up afterwards.
One strip is then laid on the lap-iron, with the thin edge towards the
worker. The left thumb is placed upon A (Fig. 104), and the right upon
B, with thumb-nails towards you, the hands back to back, and the two
forefingers against C and D. In this way the thumbs can be pressed very
hard, and the two ends of the strip brought round to the dotted shape
E and F. The thin edge will pucker up in the centre (G and H), but the
puckers are hammered flat by tapping round the centre while holding
the two ends between the thumb and finger of the left hand. Thus one
split-lift is made, and the process must be repeated for the other.
The leather to make split-lifts must be split while wet, but it is best
to let the strips dry a little before blocking them on the lap-iron. In
drying they open a little at the ends, as shown by the dotted lines.
For this reason the ends are brought together when making, in order
that they may dry the proper shape.
[Illustration: Fig. 104.--Turning the Split-lift.]
The heel, as shown in Fig. 102, is rasped off and made rough so as to
receive a thin coat of paste the same width as the split-lift, which is
rasped on one side and treated similarly; it is then put on as shown in
Fig. 105, the boot being held firmly, the heel end on the right and the
toe on the left knee, by the strap passing over the waist and between
the knees.
[Illustration: Fig. 105.--Split-lift in position.]
The split-lift is placed with its edge flush with the edge of the
centre of the seat-piece at A. A peg is driven in, another at B one
at C, then one at D, and another at E. These pegs will keep the
split-lift in its place while other pegs are being put in between them;
all must be placed towards the centre, as far away from the edge as the
thickness of the split-lift will admit.
This is then nicely pared round. If a gent’s or lady’s square-heel
boot, the outside corner should be left square; towards the back and
inside corner it can slant in somewhat. The tops of the pegs may be cut
off, the top rasped as was the seat, and the two ends trimmed. A piece
of zinc slipped under the end previous to cutting protects the grain of
the sole from being scored in the process.
[Illustration: Fig. 106.--Heel ready for Sewing.]
The split-lift being now pegged in its proper place on the seat, the
top of it is roughed with a rasp and pasted. The first entire lift,
after roughing and pasting the flesh side, is then put on grain side
upwards. The size for each lift piece should be got by placing a piece
of paper over the split-lift. Then stroke the paper over the edge of
the split-lift, until the edge of the heel is shown. This pattern
will do for roughing out all the lifts for a square heel, and they
should be a little larger than the pattern. If a smart (hollowed)
heel is to be made, each successive lift may be a little smaller than
the one on which it lies. For the present boot only two whole lifts
are wanted to make the heel, shown in Fig. 106, A being the sole and
seat-pieces, B the split-lift, and C and D the first and second whole
lifts. In putting on the first lift, about five pegs can be inserted
midway between the centre and edge, as was done in the split-lift,
the top of the pegs being cut off with a portion of the lift. The top
is rasped until nearly all the grain is off the leather, then it is
trimmed to the shape of the heel. The second lift is then roughed, the
two surfaces pasted, and the lift placed and kept where it belongs on
the heel by driving in two ³⁄₄ rivets at E and F; or two sole tacks may
be used temporarily, and then withdrawn when the sewing down has been
done. At the breast of the heel the first lift should overhang the ends
of the split-lifts a little, and the second should overhang the first,
and so on, until the heel is the height required, and the top piece is
on. A channel, shown by the dotted line, must be cut in this top lift.
If a second cut be made an eighth of an inch from the first, with the
knife held slanting the reverse way, it will cut a ~V~-piece out and
form a groove, which need not be deep, for the stitch to lie in. The
sole and seat-piece should be rubbed round from G to H with the bone to
open it a little, so that the seat stitches may be clear.
[Illustration: Fig. 107.--Flat Waisted Last.]
[Illustration: Fig. 108.--Alteration of Last for High Heels.]
[Illustration: Fig. 109.--Another Way of altering Last.]
If the last is out of range for the height of heel you wish to make,
it can be counteracted by feathering the insole, and sewing close and
full, unless the last is very badly out, when its construction must be
altered. All the full lines circumscribing the lasts in Figs. 107, 108,
and 109 are alike; and it will be seen by Fig. 107 that the last is
somewhat dead, or flat in the waist. By building a high heel, one lift
above the other, without reducing them at the breast, the heel will
be thrown out of range, as shown at A, B, and C (Fig. 107).
If to give a better range the lifts are reduced at the breast when the
boot is worn, the pressure of the foot on D will press it down to the
ground line, and again throw the heel out of range. To prevent this,
there are two ways to fit up the last, and if it fits someone, and will
be again wanted to make low-heeled boots upon with little trouble, the
alteration will be best made in a way that the last may be quickly
brought back to the original shape. To do this, take the measure of the
last round the joints at A B (Fig. 108), and then peg a piece of wetted
leather on the bottom and right across the last from C to D; skive the
leather, as shown by the dotted line B, tapering to nothing at C and
D, but less abrupt from B to C than from B to D. Rasp away the wood
at A E, as shown by the dotted line, until the new measurement is the
same as first taken. Peg on the heel a piece of leather, thick at F,
and tapered to nothing at G. A little wood can be taken off at H, and
if the lasts are to be used for high-heeled boots only, it will be the
best. Rasp off the bottom at the toe a piece from A to B (Fig. 109),
as shown by the dotted line, and also from C to D, taking away most
at E; this deficiency can be made up with leather at F and G. The two
diagrams given in Fig. 110 contrast the pitches of the same heel on the
different-shaped lasts.
[Illustration: Fig. 110.--Heels Contrasted.]
[Illustration: Fig. 111.--Stitching the Lift.]
[Illustration: Fig. 112.--Method of Making the Stitch.]
To sew down the heel the boot is placed on the knees with the heel
towards you, and the lifts to the left, as shown in Fig. 111, and held
very firmly by the strap. The thread for the heel should be about four
or six strands stouter than sewing thread. The heel awl is a tool
nearly straight, but in other respects like the sewing-awl. It is used
in a large-sized sewing-awl handle, and before making each hole the
blade needs to be dipped into soap. It has a thick substance to go
through, so the leather must be sufficiently moist, and good bristles
are wanted on the thread.
To make the first hole for sewing the heel, the awl is put in at A
(Fig. 111) and brought out at B. The exact place where the point of the
awl is to be put in the sole is shown in Fig. 112, which is a section
of the welt and seat. The heel is indicated by the dotted lines B B,
and the first hole is made at near A the corner of the heel, and the
thread is drawn half-way through. In the same way the second hole is
made at C. In making all the holes after the first, the awl must be
kept clear of the seat stitch (Fig. 112), as this might impoverish the
stitch and make it somewhat rotten. After the second hole is made, the
point of the awl is placed under the seat stitch to raise it in line
with the mouth of the hole, so that the sewing thread may pass through
the loop of the seat stitch. The stitch is made by passing through the
two bristles from opposite ends of the hole one after the other. The
two ends are then drawn through together, pulling the thread hard on
both ends. The third hole is made in the same way by putting the awl in
at D, and the sewing process is repeated. This will make a stitch as
seen at H, coming out of loop G, and returning into loop I; and when
the stitch is drawn tight it draws the upper to the sole, and also
holds the heel on. This process is repeated, each hole following on as
at E and F, until all the stitches that lie on the upper leather are
sewn down. The stitches in Figs. 111 and 112 are shown loose to clearly
illustrate their positions. The heel thread should fall into the groove
cut on the top of the heel, the last stitch being finished off with a
knot. After each few stitches are set the heel should be hammered down
to keep it in its place. When the heel is sewn all round, and the ends
of the thread cut off, it can be firmly and well hammered down all over.
Now when the leather is damp and workable is the time to make the seat;
and after it has been hammered on top, the stitches A D (Fig. 111)
should be rubbed down well with the bone. The heel can then be dressed
carefully with the pene end of the hammer, so that in the process all
the stitches are covered by the leather. In commencing, the pene of the
hammer must strike the heel at the bottom of the split-lift and the top
of the sole and sole-piece, as shown in Fig. 113. This is to drive the
leather over the stitches as much as possible. When this pening has
been done all round the heel, turn the boot and commence at the extreme
edge B, holding the boot in the position shown; and when hammering
towards the back, let the toe slip between the knees. The blows of the
hammer do not want to be hard, but sharp and frequent, and repeated
in various rows all round the edge of the heel, as at A (Fig. 114),
leaving no part untouched. Then the leather can be slightly flattened
with the face of the hammer.
[Illustration: Fig. 113.--Pening to cover the Stitch.]
[Illustration: Fig. 114.--Trimming the Seat.]
The next step is to trim the rough edges of the seat at B. Hold the
boot firmly upon the knees (as at Fig. 114), and just start cutting
with the point of the knife; and to save it from slipping into the
upper, a metal guard will be found very useful. The handle of an old
metal spoon hammered thin and flat (as A, Fig. 115) makes a handy guard
to the knife for several purposes. This guard is placed on the upper,
as at C, and moved along with the knife when cutting off the rough
edge D. The seat is trimmed up, so that E is left firm and solid, and
well covering the stitch. The next process is running the seat-breaker
(Fig. 116) round from the other corner of the seat. In the illustration
A is the cutter, B the guard, C the handle. The guard B is put against
the top of the seat at the opposite corner to B (Fig. 114), and, taking
three or four sweeping strokes in one direction only, the seat should
be made smooth and even all round. If it is not, the lumps must be cut
off with the knife, and the breaker used again. This finishes the edge
E; and the edge B must now be rubbed round with the welt file (Fig.
117), used for smoothing the welt, etc., made with cross-cuts on one
side only (as illustrated). The heel can be allowed to dry, and it can
then have the remainder of the lifts put on.
[Illustration: Fig. 115.--Metal Guard used when Trimming.]
[Illustration: Fig. 116.--Seat breaker.]
If a pegged seat is wanted, it must be arranged for before the boot
is lasted, as it is necessary to skive the stiffener (Fig. 74) much
thinner and more tapered than is wanted for a sewn seat. The inner sole
is not fitted and holed as described on p. 72 (Fig. 78), but it is
left quite square and plain to the edge, to where the heel is coming;
the waist and fore-part only are holed. The seat portion is left its
full substance, and it will be found that even then the centre is
higher than the sides, unless the bottom of the last is very flat at
the heel--which it should not be, as this will make the boot feel very
uncomfortable to the heel in wear.
A pair of thin split-lifts about ¹⁄₂ in. wide must be made, as
described on p. 100, to go round the edge of the inner sole. The
thickness that these split-lifts should be must be decided by the
amount of drop that the last has at the edge, as their purpose is to
make the top as near flat and level as possible. The split-lift can be
pegged on with a few short fine pegs, so that in pegging the seat the
sole and all the upper leather and stiffener should lie quite flat.
Pegs should go through everything, inner included; otherwise they are
never solid, and tend to yield to any strain from top and bottom; so
pegs must go straight through each substance, and not on the slant.
Fig. 118 is a section of the seat, upper, stiffener, inner sole,
split-lift, and sole, with the right side with the split-lift, and
the left without. The difference between a peg that is driven through
straight, as the line A, and the one driven aslant, as the line C, can
be easily seen. To get upon the leather on the left the same effect as
shown by the line A, the peg would have to be driven as the line C,
which is not nearly so strong as A.
[Illustration: Fig. 117.--Welt File.]
[Illustration: Fig. 118.--Pegging a Seat.]
When the inner sole is prepared, the top can be lasted round the seat
as described on pp. 75-77, excepting that the lower edge of the upper
leather must reach towards the centre fully ³⁄₈ in. more than is needed
for a sewn seat. Bought tops are generally quite large enough to allow
this, without making the golosh too low at the back; but tops not large
enough must be sewn. There are several ways of sewing the upper to the
inner sole; but this is not done as described for a sewn seat. The
upper leather can be stitched by felling to the inner sole, or the
stitch can be set, first on the sole side and then on the upper; but
that is not solid enough for good work, as too much depends upon the
pegs.
[Illustration: Fig. 119.--Seat Sewn for Pegging.]
[Illustration: Fig. 120.--Pegged Seat and Split-lift.]
The best method is as follows:--Hold the boot as for stitching the sewn
heel, with the heel towards you (see Fig. 119). The sewing awl is put
in at A, the point is brought out at B, and a thread is put through
and halved. The awl is next put in at C and brought out at D; this is
a little on the slant, and the remainder of the holes can follow the
alternate dots from side to side in like manner. The stitch is set like
this: the thread end hanging from B is held in the left hand, and when
the hole C D is made the end at A is put into C; B is then put between
A C under the thread that is going to form the stitch across these two
holes. The thread A is then drawn out with the left hand at D, and the
thread B drawn through under the stitch A C. This will draw the upper
over at B. The next stitch is set in the same manner, which will draw
D over, and so on right round. Each time a stitch is set it can be
hammered down on top and at the side; this drives the stiffener into
its place, and helps to make a nice square edge, shown by the line E
F, to form the seat upon. By the diagram (Fig. 119) it can be seen at
the last stitch that the two ends G and H tied together will make a
good finish, with a solid and smooth seam, and that the top is flat to
receive the sole.
The sole and sole-piece are put on as with a sewn boot, only they are
pared nearer to the upper, leaving about ¹⁄₁₆ in. all round. A row of
fine pegs, just long enough to go through the inner sole, is put in (as
shown by A, Fig. 120) near to the edge of the sole and sole-piece; and
they must reach the edge of the inner sole and just go through it. A
straight fine awl is like an ordinary fine bradawl, it should be used
with a short stumpy handle; and if the leather be too hard for it to be
forced in by hand pressure, it can be held in its place with the left,
and driven in with a hammer in the right. The tops of the pegs must
be cut off, rasped, and pasted, ready to receive the split-lifts, as
described on p. 101. When the split-lift is put on, it must have a row
of pegs put round, as in Fig. 120, only they must not be quite so near
the edge, as shown by B. The first lift is treated in the way described
on p. 101, and, with these exceptions, all is the same, as with a sewn
seat.
[Illustration: Fig. 121.--Flexura Spring.]
A steel spring inserted in each waist is useful for those who like a
boot or shoe to fit close under the waist and instep, or for those who
have a flat foot and want to improve it. This spring need not be so
strong as to hurt the foot; and at first wearing it is best to have
springs very little curved, and stiff enough to keep the waist from
dropping by the weight of the body. As you get used to them, a spring
more flexible, yet stronger, can be used. There are several kinds of
springs--single, double, twins, Goodyear’s, etc.; but a good strong
single spring will answer the best, using women’s or men’s as wanted.
Flexura springs can be got at almost any grindery shop. The price is
about 3d. or 4d. per pair, or from 2s. 2d. to 4s. per dozen. Two pieces
of brass or zinc for the plates, and about eight copper tacks, should
be included with each pair. Fig. 121 shows their shape; they are about
4¹⁄₂ in. long, and ¹⁄₂ in. to ³⁄₄ in. wide; this is before they go
in the boot. They will not need padding, as the spring should not be
strong enough to hurt the foot. Should this happen, it can be prevented
by bending the spring back very gently at first, and increasing as you
proceed, so as to make the spring nearly straight and yet not to break
it.
To put the springs in, the boot is unlasted after the inner sole is
fitted, and put on the lap-iron to have riveted upon it a plate of
brass or zinc. This plate of metal has three holes made in it; it is
laid upon the flesh side of the inner sole, as at A (Fig. 122), and
three holes are pierced with a fine awl in the inner sole. The place
for the end of the spring is just below the end of the waist, as shown.
If it is put nearer the ball of the foot, the steel will work through
the metal plate and the leather also, and thus let water in before the
other parts of the boot are half worn out.
[Illustration: Fig. 122.--Inner Sole for Pegged Waist.]
Then lay the sole on a board, and from the grain side drive three
copper tacks through, so that the heads are well into the grain and
smooth with the leather. Take the shoe off the board and put it with
the tack heads flat on the lap-iron. Put the plate of metal over the
points of the tacks, and hammer it down to the leather. Cut the points
off near to the plate, and, while the heads are flat on the iron,
gently burr or rivet the ends to fix the plate very solid.
Proceed, as previously described, with making until the welt is in and
the seat and waist sewn down; then the steel spring is put in. It has
a hole through one end only, C (Fig. 122). The other end, A, is put
under the metal plate, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 122, a tack
is put through the hole C in the spring, and when the boot is made it
can be cut off and riveted in the same way that was done for the plate.
This is usually enough to hold the spring, but a few stitches can be
put across from side to side if it needs it.
[Illustration: Fig. 123.--Pegged Waist Enlarged.]
The boot is then proceeded with as before described; but no welt
is wanted in the waist if it is to be made pegged, which, if done
properly, is by far the best for a flexura spring waist.
In fitting the inner sole for a _pegged waist_ the waist is skived at
the edges only, and not very far in, excepting at the centre of the
inside waist (as D), where the outer sole will have a greater curve,
and still allow the pegs to be put in, so that they will go through the
whole substance of the leather. For the pegged seat more upper leather
is wanted to last over than for sewn work, and this can be sewn down as
described for the seat.
For a pegged waist the sole need not be made thinner in the waist than
for a sewn one, unless it is very stout; and in that case, it can be
thinned uniformly from the grain side; so that, although the waist is
thinner than the sole, it is all the same substance. Assuming that the
sole is stitched on and the seat pegged, we have only to peg the waist.
This is very important work, for if the waists once give way they are
exceedingly difficult to repair.
A diagram of the waist is given in Fig. 123 on a larger scale to show
the essential points. The dotted lines A and A show the inner sole.
The full lines B and B show where the outer sole is to be rounded up.
The lines C and C show the edge of the upper leather, and D D show the
stitches that hold it in its place, which are like those in the seat.
If the flexura spring should require further fastening, the stitches
D, D can be drawn from one side to the other. E E show where three
rows of pegs should be put in. About six holes, marked F, F, F, F, F,
F, should be made in each side, and as each hole is made a peg should
be put in. This holds the waist in its place. Then between each two of
these another peg can be put in, as at G. The remaining holes necessary
to complete one row are made, as shown at H I; each one is pegged as it
is made. When one row of pegs are in, trim off the tops with the knife
or rasp before putting in the second row, and proceed the same with the
second row if you intend to put a third, which will be necessary for
heavy work.
[Illustration: Fig. 124.--Split Strip for light Pegged Work.]
For making light pegged work there need not be a middle sole, as
a simple runner will suffice. Measure from joint to joint on the
fore-part; select a piece of firm leather, first-cut is best, and cut
it to this length, and about 1¹⁄₂ in. wide. Split this strip down the
centre as in making a split-lift; the cut, being ¹⁄₂ in. wide (as shown
in Fig. 124), will give on each side ¹⁄₂ in. width of solid stuff to
peg through. Skive the strip a little wider and thinner at the toe,
so that you may get it round smoother. Hammer it, peg it on, cut the
pegs off, skive it down towards the centre, and fill the bottom up in
the ordinary way. By this means it may be made as flat or round as
you choose. No matter how broad the bottoms are intended to be, the
pegs must be far enough from the edge to go through quite ¹⁄₈ in. from
the edge of the insole. It will be found best to slant the edge with
an ordinary knife, but be very careful not to cut the upper. Hold in
the left hand the piece being cut away, twist it between the thumb
and finger, and only use the extreme point of the knife, guided by
the second finger of the right hand. The fore-part iron will do for
smoothing with as for sewn boots.
[Illustration: Fig. 125.--Completing the Heel.]
The heel was left, on p. 101, built up to the second whole lift, A
(Fig. 125). To make a 1¹⁄₄ in. heel will need two more lifts and the
top piece. The top of A should be roughed with the rasp, and pasted,
and the third lift laid on and secured by two rivets nearly in the
centre; this is also rasped and pasted, and the last or top lift put
on. This lift is rasped and pasted, and also the flesh side of the
top piece, which is held firm by headless rivets put in at A and B
(Fig. 126), so that it may be rounded up. The heel can be rounded up
to whatever shape may be desired. Fig. 126 is a medium heel; it can be
built smarter, or quite square, as the dotted lines show in A and B;
either way, it should be longer and more square on the outside corner
C (Fig. 126) which in this case shows the right heel. The remainder of
the rivets can be put in not very near the edge, as D and E (Fig. 126).
They should slant outward all round, as B (Fig. 125).
To blind on the top piece drive six blinders, or headless rivets, down
the side of those at A, D, and F (Fig. 126), as shown there by
the small dots. Prior to pasting the top lift these blinders are put
in, leaving enough to go through about two-thirds or three-quarters of
the substance of the top piece. The top piece is laid on and hammered
down, causing these portions of rivets to embed themselves into it, and
so hold it on. For very light work, or when the wearer objects to his
heels making a noise in walking, blinders can be put in all round, and
other nails need not be used; but then the top piece wears out quicker
than if it has nails or brads in it. The system has one advantage--that
heels need not be worn down badly, as it is not much trouble to slip
this piece off, knock another on, and pare it up and finish. It need be
renewed only as far as it is worn; therefore it is as well to put this
top piece on in two pieces, joined as shown by the dotted line (Fig.
127), when only the part C need be slipped off and replaced.
[Illustration: Fig. 126.--Shape of Lifts for Blinding.]
[Illustration: Fig. 127.--Top Piece Bradded.]
The position for the brads is as shown at C (Fig. 127), being on the
outside of the heel, unless the wearer treads inside, when the heels
should be bradded on the inside. The top piece should be left about
¹⁄₁₆ in. wider where the brads are to go, leaving something to trim
off. By this means the brads are got quite to the edge of the top
piece, where the hardest wear comes. One, two, or three rows of brads
or rivets can be put in, according to the strength of the boot; a third
row need only reach from D to D, the inner row being the shortest.
Most of the care necessary to give symmetry to the bottom of the boot
lies in fitting the inner sole and sewing in the welt and seat; and
to have a boot well ranged, this must be kept in mind. The inner sole
must be so arranged that when the heel is built to its full height, and
the top piece on, a straight-edge placed as shown by the line D (Figs.
125 and 128) will show that the flat of the top piece is level with the
flat part of the sole.
[Illustration: Fig. 128.--Pitch of Heel.]
[Illustration: Fig. 129.--Heel Pitching on Waist.]
[Illustration: Fig. 130.--Heel Pitching on Back.]
This plan line of the inner sole’s edge may be thrown out of level,
as shown in Fig. 129, by the dotted line A, through sewing the welt
and seat corners too snug, as the dotted lines E E show in Fig. 122.
Raising the point of the sewing-awl here and dropping it at F will make
a heel built lift upon lift too high in front, as at B (Fig. 129);
to make it stand flat upon the ground a wedge-lift would be put in,
as at C. The reason for this is that the last is round at the bottom
of the heel, it being highest at C (Fig. 122) and lowest at F and E
E. The closer the two dotted lines E E, the higher they are, as at
A (Fig. 129), and the more they are sewn down at F (Fig. 122), the
lower they are at D (Fig. 129), and this gives the result explained.
If the reverse is done it will make a heel too high at the back, as
shown by A (Fig. 130); but this fault is not nearly such a bad one as
the other, except in a spring waist; then the spring would raise the
waist and pitch the back of the heel so prominently as to make it very
uncomfortable in wear.
[Illustration: Fig. 131.--Correct Range for Spring Waist on Last.]
From Fig. 131 can be seen the importance of having this line a curve
sweeping towards the heel, and straight at the sole. The way certain
lasts have to be fitted for particular types of feet sometimes makes it
difficult to do the fore-part in nicely; but it should range correctly
at least from the waist to the heel, as from A to B.
A heel dropping, as at B (Fig. 130), which makes it look higher in
breast than at the back, or rising at A (Fig. 129), which makes it look
higher at the back than at the breast, is very unsightly, and throws
the boot or shoe out of position in wear. It is this sort of heel which
gets worn down at the front, B E (Fig. 128), and also causes the waist
to drop, as though the wearer had a flat foot. The effect is that the
upper part is drawn out of place, and wrinkles are made on the instep
of the boot, making it appear old with only a very little wear.
The range of the heel has a certain effect upon the pitch, because
a little defect in the range can to a certain extent be set right
by properly pitching a heel; but it is not advisable here to dwell
upon makeshifts to overcome defects, as the aim is to show how to be
boot-makers, not boot-doctors. Therefore, remember that range depends
upon pitch, and pitch upon the form of heel.
A gent’s ordinary military heel (Fig. 131) should be pitched as C,
unless the boot has a spring waist; then it can be pitched as shown by
the dotted lines D and E. When off the last, and also when on the foot,
the waist will have a tendency to rise, and so pitch the heel forward,
as shown by A (Fig. 132). The spring waist will also have the effect of
making the toe lie flat on the ground, as at B, which adds beauty to
the boot or shoe. The higher the heel, the more forward it wants to be
pitched, as A (Fig. 133); or, for a lady’s, as shown at A (Fig. 134).
An extra smart high heel could come even as far as the dotted line B.
The last should then have more drop in the waist, and more off the
bottom of the back of the heel, as at the dotted line C.
[Illustration: Fig. 132.--Spring Waist off the Last.]
[Illustration: Fig. 133.--Square Military Heel.]
[Illustration: Fig. 134.--Smart Military Heel.]
The shape for a heel is to a great extent a matter of fancy, though
some heels would look out of place on certain work. A boot for heavy
wear should have a square-shaped heel. A light dress-boot can have
a small top piece. For ladies, even if the heel is smart, it is best
to have the top piece somewhat large. Low heels are best for walking,
riding, shooting, or for any purpose where the wearer is likely to be
long on the feet. For light walking-dress wear there is no objection to
high heels providing the wearer knows how to walk on them which very
few persons do.