RE-WELTING AND RE-SOLING.
To re-welt and re-sole hand-sewn boots are certainly the two most
difficult repairs, they are also the most important, being the nearest
approach to the making of a boot. When, by practising with repairs,
skill has been attained in using the awl and thread, although the
present work is the harder, it ought to come easier than some of the
minor repairs did at an earlier stage. In shoe repairing, a week seldom
passes without a job of some kind to give a little varied practice and
keep the hand in trim.
To proceed with the work in hand, a last must always be put in and
fitted well to the boot or shoe, or you will not be able to make
them look well, and there is a chance of making them smaller. Pieces
of stout leather can be put on top of the lasts, or even pieces of
bundle-of-firewood will do, tapered at one end, and the thin end
knocked in first; but then, this must be done carefully, or the vamp
may break just in front of the lacing. Fitting them up well in this
form should make the bottom solid all over, and keep them in their
proper shape.
A thin long tack must be put in the back of the boot to keep the last
in its place, as at A (Fig. 52). Then put the sole and welt part in
water, and when wet, take out the boot, wipe it, and cut the old sole
off. This is done by putting a knife between the sole and welt at B,
and continuing right along, round the toe, and down the other side to
C. The old sole can then be cut away, cutting across from D to E to
make a riveted or pegged graft, as shown on p. 51, or from F to G to
make a sewn graft.
In either case a small hole can be made in the old leather at H, and a
piece of wax-end put through, that it may be drawn down flat on to the
top of the heel, securing it there by tying the thread round the nail
at A. This keeps the old sole in position while grafting, and while
sewing in the welt. If you intend to welt the boot all round, carefully
cut the old welt away from I to J, and temporarily remove the bottom
filling, K. The next thing is to fit the welt, which is a long strip of
oil-dressed leather, costing from 1d. per pair. The welt must be buffed
on the grain side, cut in two straight down the centre, tied in a loose
knot, and put into water to get thoroughly soaked; for they have to be
used wet. Before they are ready for use, an angular piece is taken off
the grain side, as shown at A (Fig. 53). Grain side down, the welt will
show an end like Fig. 53, and this is the position it is held while
being sewn in.
[Illustration: Fig. 52.--Grafting Sole to Waist.]
The sewing is done as shown in Fig. 54, starting by putting the thread
in at A, then halving the thread, and making a hole at B, and while
the awl is in place the welt against the upper at its point, and make
a hole in it at I. The hole is made as shown by the arrow in Fig. 53.
First put the bristle in the left hand through, then the one in the
right, and pull them both out, changing the bristles by this means into
the other hands, and set the stitch with a final pull. Continue this
(as in Fig. 54) until the old welt on the other side is reached.
[Illustration: Fig. 53.--Cutting Welts.]
Use a sewing-awl and a thread of about the same substance to sew in the
welt. When this is sewn in, hammer the seam down all round, giving firm
blows, so as not to break or bruise it. Then carefully skive off any
stuff above the seam that may make it uneven or clumsy, but do not cut
near the seam stitches to weaken them.
For repairs, it is only necessary to skive the ends at the waist part
of the welt a little thinner after they are sewn in. This can, and
should, be done first; but a novice is apt to make the welt too thin,
and weaken it where it should be solid, having to stand against the
splice or graft in the sole. A piece of bone should now be rubbed round
to make the welt flat to receive the stitches with which the sole will
have to be stitched on. The edge of the welt must now be rounded to the
shape required. Generally, the proper width for a pair of welts is that
of the leather when split in two; but at places the stitching somewhat
contracts it, and thus leaves prominent parts, which are best cut off;
and, as shown by the dotted line in Fig. 54, the welt is always a
little too wide at the waist.
If the old bottom filling is good, paste it in again at K (Fig. 52);
if not, replace it with new. Felt is used for this purpose; cut a
piece a little larger than the old, and paste down the shank--this is
generally a piece of skived leather, which reaches from under the heel
to the dotted line, L (Fig. 52), and just the width of the waist. Then
paste the new piece of felt in the bottom, well hammer it in all over;
and when dry skive off the edge all round at M M (Fig. 52), making
it level with the welt stitch and the centre, K. It is then ready to
receive the sole.
[Illustration: Fig. 54.--Welt prepared for Sewing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 55.--Sewn Graft.]
But if you intend to make a sewn graft, this graft must be made prior
to placing the sole down. To do this, it is important to have the old
leather cut straight across, and straight through from A to A (Fig.
55), and the same with the new sole from B to B. Then draw a line from
C to C about ³⁄₈ in. from the edge, and about ¹⁄₈ in. from this a
second one from D to D.
From D to D on the first line cut in the leather a groove about ¹⁄₁₆
in. deep, but not going through, holding the knife quite upright; this
cut can then be opened with any blunt instrument, to show the depth of
it. Then from this channel cut away one side towards the toe to the
second line, C C, holding the knife quite slanting. This is to make a
channel, as shown at E, to receive the stitches, and so make a flat
sunk seam to the graft.
Make a series of holes (about five to the inch) from D to D with a
sewing-awl, placing the point on the bottom of the channel, and pushing
it until the point comes through the edge of the leather, B B, about
¹⁄₁₆ in. from the grain side. All this should be done on the flesh
side, with the leather fitted in the same way as shown on page 24, with
the exception that, this being sewn work, the leather has to be used a
little wetter.
The boot is now put across the knees, in the position shown in Fig. 52,
with the toe towards the left and the back part towards the right knee,
and--as also shown in the illustration--with the old waist tied back.
The new sole can be put against the old leather, and an old rasp, N,
put along the top, as shown, and the strap or rope, O, placed round the
waist of the boot, as shown, and passing over the rasp. The strap will,
as it is pressed by the worker’s foot upon the shank, L, the old waist,
H, and the new sole, P, keep them all solid while the graft is being
sewn. A strong thread--about fifteen strands of No. 9 Patent, or its
equivalent of stouter hemp--should be used, and plenty of wax should be
worked into the thread before it is twisted.
The sewing should commence at the upper end in Fig. 55, and continue
across to the lower, tying a small but firm knot, as shown at F, as
each end of the seam must be particularly solid. For this reason it
is well to make two short threads, using one for each graft: this is
better than starting and ending with a knot. Novices wear out a thread
quicker than experienced workmen do, as they handle it more, and pull
it through with occasional jerks. Even at the expense of neatness, this
seam must be made solid; this cannot so well be attained in riveted
work.
This grafting is done with the piece on the top of the heel, according
to the position of the old leather, as will be seen in Fig. 52. This is
the most convenient plan, and the old top-piece of the heel provides a
flat surface to work upon.
If it is found difficult to keep the sole firmly in position by means
of the rasp only, a long rivet can be put in through into the old lifts
at H, and another at P (Fig. 52). The heeling should be left till the
soling is done, and the two holes can be rubbed out in the finishing.
[Illustration: Fig. 56.--Fitting, Stitching, and Sewing.]
After the graft is sewn the whole of the bottom, K and L; the new sole,
P, and the old shank, H, should have a thin coat of paste. The sole can
now be put into its place, and pulled towards the toe to keep it in
position. A rivet is put through at A (Fig. 56), and another through
the hole, P, in Fig. 52.
This done, hammer the sole evenly all over, and then pare it all round
the edge, close to the welt, as shown at B B (Fig. 56). As the sole is
wet, with a little care this can be done easily without cutting the
upper part, and should form one even edge all round, kept square or at
right angles with the flat of the sole, taking care not to go too close
to the welt. A line can now be drawn all round with the compasses,
about ¹⁄₁₆ in. from the edge; and upon this line the channel is to be
cut to receive the stitch.
The boot is held sole upwards between the knees, with the toe towards
you; and to cut the channel, use a sharp-pointed knife, held near the
point between the thumb and finger, letting the second finger rest upon
the edge of the sole. The knife will be somewhat in the position of a
pen while writing; but it must be held firmly, and it should form an
angle of about 50° with the flat of the welt. The channel should be cut
through the grain and into the fibrous and wear-resisting part of the
sole deep enough to let the thread lie well below the surface. This
will be nearly half-way through the leather, whatever its thickness may
be, as it is the substance of the sole that will govern the thickness
of the thread, which will have to lie in the channel. The thread being
thus embedded in the firm part of the sole gives solidity to the
stitching, and leaves the grain free to form a covering for the stitch.
When the cut has been made (Fig. 56) from B round the toe to C, it can
be opened with any blunt instrument. This is so that you may see the
point of the awl when it comes out in the pit or centre of the channel,
and also to give space for the stitch to fall into. To prevent the
stitching-awl from notching the inner edge of the channel, which would
make it irregular and unsightly when finished, it can be turned over
for about two inches; and when about a dozen stitches have been made,
pass the left-hand thumb-nail along the channel from the last stitch,
and turn over for another two inches.
Stitching on the sole is generally done when a boot has been welted;
and before this, the waist will have to be sewn down. It does not
matter about a channel being cut in the old waist leather, as this
can be blacked: which helps to hide the stitch; though if the leather
is sufficiently thick to admit of a channel, this will make a neater
finish.
The sewing is started at D (Fig. 56), and the sewing-awl (Fig. 57) is
used till the first stitch on the new leather is reached at B; then the
stitching-awl (Fig. 58) is used. At the two points, B and C, the sewing
and stitching should be so arranged that a stitch extends across the
graft from the old to the new leather at B, and from the new to old at
C, so as to make these weakest points quite solid.
The technical meaning of sewing is that two or more pieces are held
together, and shoemakers call all work sewn that is treated with a
round awl; while stitching is only technically applied where the square
awl is used.
[Illustration: Fig. 57.--Sewing-awl.]
[Illustration: Fig. 58.--Blade of Stitching-awl.]
The stitching-awl is put into the same sort of handle, and is a similar
tool to the sewing-awl, with the exception of being flat (as shown
in Fig. 58); and it is now almost generally known as the square awl.
From this figure it will be seen that when put into the handle the
stitching-awl has a double curve. This makes it more handy to get into
awkward places, and pressure on the handle gives a power that could not
otherwise be obtained. The action of this awl is peculiar; it must not
be wriggled about in the same manner as the sewing-awl; and in use it
must be passed through by one rapid and almost straight push.
The boot is held by the strap on the knees, toe towards you, on its
side, with the sole to the left, and the upper to the right. The thumb
of the left hand is pressed firmly against the bottom of the sole, as
shown by E in Fig. 56, just beyond where the point of the awl is to
come out. The awl is then laid against the upper, with the point on the
flat of the welt, and it is pushed through. One sharp push, at the same
time dropping the elbow a little, sends the point through the leather
into the channel cut in the new sole, as shown at B B (Fig. 59).
[Illustration: Fig. 59.--Section of Boot.]
A good idea of how a hand-made boot is put together can be gained
by careful examination of Fig. 59. It shows a boot cut through at
the centre of the sole. The various parts are lettered as follows:
A, stitching-awl; B B, channel cut for stitches; C, sole; D, upper
leather; E E, space for foot; F, in-sole; G G, welt stitch; H H, welt.
The stitching is continued round as far as the new leather goes; the
old leather is then sewn, as was done on the opposite side. The channel
is again opened, and the stitches within it are well rubbed down with
the bone. A little paste is rubbed in all round with a piece of rag put
over the right thumb-nail, which is put in the channel, and passed all
round the channel in the sole.
The raised edge of the channel is rasped away with an old file, taking
strokes outward from the centre of the sole, the boot being held in
the left hand, with the heel towards you. The file strokes proceed, as
shown by the arrow at A B (Fig. 60), towards the toe, and are continued
all round.
The boot is then replaced in the same position as at first, and the
ridge over the channel is rubbed hard up and down with a bone or long
stick, held with one end in each hand, as shown from C to D in Fig. 60,
until the whole is smoothed. By these means the thin narrow strip of
grain, H (Fig. 56), is thrown towards the edge, where it forms a burr
all round. The boot is then held with the toe towards you. With the
back of the knife the edge of the sole is scraped upwards, to throw
this burr over the face of the sole. The knife is then held flat on
to the sole, and the burr cut off level with the face. The stitches
on the welt side are then rubbed down a little with the tapered bone,
wetting a little with the mouth while using it. The sole is then well
and evenly hammered all over.
[Illustration: Fig. 60.--Rubbing down Channel.]
[Illustration: Fig. 61.--Fudge-wheel.]
As the stitch is wanted to show up boldly on the welt, the fudge-wheel
(Fig. 61) should be run round it before the stitching is commenced.
This wheel makes an impression on the leather resembling stitching,
and the real stitching will appear regular if the awl is put through
exactly in the wheel-marks. To get a bold and even stitch, the
principal factor is a mode of setting the stitch. Each time that the
awl is taken out, put in the left-hand bristle first, as usual, and
in putting in the other bristle, on the right side, let it pass on
top of the first. This will throw the stitch up towards the edge; and
if carefully done with each one, the stitches will show one straight
line. The stitches can be set from 12 to 16, or even 18, to the inch,
according to the style of work; 14 will do well for ordinary repairs.
After the stitches are rubbed down, the warmed fudge-wheel can be
carefully run round the sole, each cog to go between each stitch. This
will prick up the stitch; or a prick-stitch can be used between each
stitch. The boots are then finished in the way described in Chap. VIII.
To make a thread for either stitching or sewing, flax or hemp is used.
This is sold in balls ready for casting and twisting, and should always
be drawn from the inner end. It is convenient to place the ball in a
box and draw the thread through a hole. The thread is first broken at
about 6 in. from the end to the form shown at A (Fig. 62). This is done
by rolling it on the right thigh with a long sweep of the right hand.
This action untwists the fibres, as at B, and a smart jerk with the
left hand parts the threads, leaving the flossy ends as shown at A; the
short end is thrown away.
[Illustration: Fig. 62.--Waxing the Thread.]
The length of thread commonly used is about three yards, and several
pieces of about this length are broken from the ball. For stitching
purposes the thread ranges from about 5 to 9 strands, and for sewing-up
to about 15 strands. At C is shown the end of a thread having 8
strands, and it will be noticed that these ends are placed at different
places, lengthways, so as to form a tapering end to the threads when
all are twisted together.
Having broken off the requisite number of strands they are hooked
midway of their length over a nail and twisted by rolling on the knee
in the way described for breaking the strand. About a dozen sweeps of
the hand should suffice for each end. The whole thread is then held
at full length to allow the twisting to distribute itself evenly, and
wiped smooth with a cloth.
Waxing the thread is the next process, and to do this follow the plan
shown in Fig. 62, where L is the left hand and R the right. The thread
is wound round the left hand leaving a length of about 2 ft. for waxing
with the wax, marked W, and held in the right hand as shown. The thread
is laid in the wax and held firmly upon it by the thumb, T, and waxed
by drawing the hands apart; this is repeated a few times, as may be
necessary. The thread is then unwound from the left hand, and another
length of about 2 ft. is waxed.
[Illustration: Fig. 63.--Hand-leather.]
Select a good pair of bristles to go on each end of the thread; cut
off the bulby part from one end by a slanting cut as at D. At E, bend
both bristles across the thumb-nail, and split them to this point by
tearing asunder the bushy part of the hair at F. Place the tapered
end of the waxed thread between the two split portions, and carefully
plait the whole together. Finally, a hole is made with a fine awl at
E, and the point of the bristle is threaded through it; this secures
the join against unplaiting. A bristle may be twisted on by rolling the
fine-tapered point of the thread round it.
In order to draw the stitches tight in sewing, a hand-leather (Fig. 63)
is indispensable. It is easily made from a piece of old leather, and
its dimensions are from about 8 in. to 10 in. long, and 2¹⁄₂ in. to 3
in. wide. The shape is shown in the illustration; the leather is folded
at the dotted lines, B C, and F E, and the ends are laced together at I
J. In the position indicated at A a hole is made, about 1 in. diameter,
for the thumb to pass through, the short strokes at B, D,
and E show where the leather is snipped. The ends G and H are laced
together as shown at I J, and the leather is placed on the left hand
with the lapped ends in the palm and the thumb passing through the hole
A.