MUSHROOMS, OR ESCULENT FUNGI.
Agaricus. Boletus. Clavaria. Morchella, or Morel. Tuber, or Truffle.
Although many experiments have been made in the culture of different
species of edible Fungi, "only one has yet been generally introduced
into the garden, though there can be no doubt the whole would finally
submit to and probably be improved by cultivation. Many of them are
natives of this country, abounding in our woods and pastures; and may be
gathered wild, and freely enjoyed by those who have not the means of
raising them artificially. In Poland and Russia, there are about thirty
sorts of edible Fungi in common use among the peasantry. They are
gathered in all the different stages of their growth, and used in
various ways,--raw, boiled, stewed, roasted; and being hung up, and
dried in stoves or chimneys, form a part of their winter's stock of
provisions.
"Mushrooms are not, however, everywhere equally abundant, owing as well
to climate as to the more general cultivation of the soil: the character
of many of the sorts is, therefore, not perfectly known, and most of
them are passed over as deleterious. Indeed, the greatest caution is
requisite in selecting any species of this tribe for food; and we can
advise none but an experienced botanist to search after any but the
common and familiar sort (_Agaricus campestris_) for food."--_Loud._
* * * * *
COMMON MUSHROOM. _M'Int._ _Rog._
Champignon. Agaricus campestris.
[Illustration: Common Mushroom.]
This Mushroom, when it first appears, is of a rounded or button-like
form, of a white color, and apparently rests on the surface of the
ground. When fully developed, "the stem is solid, two or three inches
high, and about half an inch in diameter; its cap measures from an inch
to three and sometimes even upwards of four inches in diameter, is of a
white color, changing to brown when old, and becoming scurfy, fleshy,
and regularly convex, but, with age, flat, and liquefying in decay; the
gills are loose, of a pinkish-red, changing to liver-color, in contact
with but not united to the stem, very thick-set, some forked next the
stem, some next the edge of the cap, some at both ends, and generally,
in that case, excluding the intermediate smaller gills."
Loudon says that it is most readily distinguished, when of middle size,
by its fine pink or flesh-colored gills and pleasant smell. In a more
advanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate color; and it is then
more liable to be confounded with other kinds of dubious quality: but
the species which most nearly resembles it is slimy to the touch, and
destitute of the fine odor, having rather a disagreeable smell. Further,
the noxious kind grows in woods, or on the margin of woods; while the
true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be
gathered only in such places.
_Cultivation._--"This is the only species that has as yet been subjected
to successful cultivation; though there can be little doubt that all or
most of the terrestrial-growing sorts would submit to the same process,
if their natural habitats were sufficiently studied, and their spawn
collected and propagated. In this way, the Common Mushroom was first
brought under the control of man.
"The seeds of the Common Mushroom, in falling from the gills when ripe,
are no doubt wafted by the wind, and become attached to the stems and
leaves of grasses and other herbage; and notwithstanding they are eaten
by such animals as the horse, deer, and sheep, pass through their
intestines without undergoing any material change in their vegetative
existence: and hence, in the dung of these animals, when placed
together, and kept moderately dry, and brought to a slight state of
fermentation, we discover the first stage of the existence of the future
brood of mushrooms. This is practically called 'spawn,' and consists of
a white, fibrous substance, running like broken threads through the mass
of dung, which appears to be its only and proper _nidus_."--_M'Int._ It
is prepared for use as follows:--
"In June and July, take any quantity of fresh horse-droppings,--the more
dry and high-fed the better,--mixed with short litter, one-third of
cow's dung, and a good portion of mould of a loamy nature; cement them
well together, and mash the whole into a thin compost, and spread it on
the floor of an open shed, to remain until it becomes firm enough to be
formed into flat, square bricks; which done, set them on an edge, and
frequently turn them till half dry; then, with a dibble, make two or
three holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of good old
spawn about the size of a common walnut. The bricks should then be left
till they are dry. This being completed, level the surface of a piece of
ground, under cover, three feet wide, and of sufficient length to
receive the bricks; on which lay a bottom of dry horse-dung six inches
thick; then form a pile by placing the bricks in rows one upon another,
with the spawn-side uppermost, till the pile is three feet high; next
cover it with a small portion of warm horse-dung, sufficient in
quantity to diffuse a gentle glow of heat through the whole. When the
spawn has spread itself through every part of the bricks, the process is
ended, and the bricks may then be laid up in a dry place for use.
Mushroom-spawn thus made will preserve its vegetative power many years,
if well dried before it is laid up; but, if moist, it will grow, and
exhaust itself."--_Trans._
The next step to be taken is the formation of the bed; in the
preparation of which, no dung answers so well as that of the horse, when
taken fresh from the stable: the more droppings in it, the better. The
process recommended by Rogers is as follows:--
"About July or August is the general season for making mushroom-beds,
though this may be done all the year round. A quantity of the dung
mentioned should be collected and thrown together in a heap, to ferment
and acquire heat; and, as this heat generally proves too violent at
first, it should, previously to making the bed, be reduced to a proper
temperature by frequently turning it in the course of the fortnight or
three weeks; which time it will most likely require for all the parts to
get into an even state of fermentation. During the above time, should it
be showery weather, the bed will require some sort of temporary
protection, by covering it with litter or such like, as too much wet
would soon deaden its fermenting quality. The like caution should be
attended to in making the bed, and after finishing it. As soon as it is
observed that the fiery heat and rank steam of the dung have passed off,
a dry and sheltered spot of ground should be chosen on which to make the
bed. This should be marked out five feet broad; and the length, running
north and south, should be according to the quantity of mushrooms likely
to be required. If for a moderate family, a bed twelve or fourteen feet
long will be found, if it takes well, to produce a good supply of
mushrooms for some months, provided proper attention be paid to the
covering.
"On the space marked for making the bed, a trench should be thrown out
about six inches deep. The mould may be laid regularly at the side; and,
if good, it will do for earthing the bed hereafter: otherwise, if
brought from a distance, that of a more loamy than a sandy nature will
be best.
"Whether in the trench, or upon the surface, there should be laid about
four inches of good litter, not too short, for forming the bottom of the
bed; then lay on the prepared dung a few inches thick, regularly over
the surface, beating it as regularly down with the fork; continue thus,
gradually drawing in the sides to the height of five feet, until it is
narrow at the top like the ridge of a house. In that state it may remain
for ten days or a fortnight, during which time the heat should be
examined towards the middle of the bed by thrusting some small sharp
sticks down in three or four places; and, when found of a gentle heat
(not hot), the bed may be spawned: for which purpose, the spawn-bricks
should be broken regularly into pieces about an inch and a half or two
inches square, beginning within six inches of the bottom of the bed, and
in lines about eight inches apart. The same distance will also do for
the pieces of spawn, which are best put in by one hand, raising the
manure up a few inches, whilst with the other the spawn can be laid in
and covered at the same time.
"After spawning the bed, if it is found to be in that regular state of
heat before mentioned, it may be earthed. After the surface is levelled
with the back of the spade, there should be laid on two inches of
mould,--that out of the trench, if dry and good, will do; otherwise make
choice of a rich loam, as before directed. After having been laid on, it
is to be beaten closely together; and, when the whole is finished, the
bed must be covered about a foot thick with good oat or wheat straw;
over which should be laid mats, for the double purpose of keeping the
bed dry, and of securing the covering from being blown off. In the
course of two or three days, the bed should be examined; and, if it is
considered that the heat is likely to increase, the covering must be
diminished for a few days, which is better than taking it entirely off.
"In about a month or five weeks,--but frequently within the former time,
if the bed is in a high state of cultivation,--mushrooms will most
likely make their appearance; and, in the course of eight and forty
hours afterwards, they will have grown to a sufficient size for use. In
gathering, instead of cutting them off close to the ground, they should
be drawn out with a gentle twist, filling up the cavity with a little
fine mould, gently pressed in level with the bed. This method of
gathering is much better than cutting, as the part left generally rots,
and breeds insects, which are very destructive, both in frames and on
mushroom-beds.
"Where a mushroom-bed is to remain permanently, a covered shed will be
found convenient.
"Sometimes it happens that a bed suddenly ceases to produce any
mushrooms. This arises from various causes, but principally from the
cold state of the bed in winter, or from a too dry state in summer. In
the former case, a slight covering of mulchy hay laid over the bed, and
on that six or eight inches of well-worked, hot dung, and the whole
covered lightly with the straw that was taken off, will most likely
bring it about again. In the latter instance, moisture, if required,
should be given moderately, two or three mornings; when, after lying
about an hour, the whole may be covered up, and be found of much
service. In summer, most mushroom-beds in a bearing state require more
or less slight waterings. Soft water should be used for the purpose:
spring water is of too hard and too cold a nature; and, when at any time
applied, checks vegetation. In summer time, a gentle shower of rain, on
open beds that are in bearing and seem dry, will add considerably to
their productiveness.
"A mushroom-bed seldom furnishes any abundance after two or three
months: it has often done its best in six or seven weeks. Heavy rains
are most destructive to mushrooms: therefore care should be taken to
remove the wet straw, or litter, and directly replace it with dry. Hence
the utility of a covered shed, or mushroom-house."
In addition to the foregoing, the following native species may be eaten
with perfect safety, if gathered young and used while fresh:--
AGARICUS COMATUS.
"An excellent species, much employed for making catchup; but should be
used in a young state. It is found growing abundantly on stumps of
trees, appearing both in spring and autumn."
AGARICUS DELICIOSUS. _M'Int._
Sweet Mushroom.
Found in September and October, growing under fir and pine trees. It is
of medium size, yellowish, zoned, with deep orange on the top, somewhat
resembling _A. torminosus_ (a deleterious species), but readily
distinguished from it, as its juice is, when fresh cut, quite red,
afterwards turning green, while that of the latter is white and
unchangeable.
Sir James Edward Smith says it well deserves its name, and is really the
most delicious mushroom known; and Mr. Sowerby is equally high in its
praise, pronouncing it very luscious eating, full of rich gravy, with a
little of the flavor of mussels.
AGARICUS EXQUISITUS. _Badham._
St. George's Mushroom. _M'Int._ Agaricus Georgii.
This species often attains a weight of five or six pounds. It is
generally considered less delicate than the common cultivated mushroom
(_A. campestris_); but in Hungary it is regarded as a special gift from
the saint whose name it bears. Persoon describes it as superior to _A.
campestris_ in smell, taste, and digestibility; on which account, he
says, it is generally preferred in France.
It is found abundantly in many places, generally growing in rings, and
re-appearing for many successive years on the same spot; and, though
sometimes met with in old pastures, is generally found in thickets,
under trees.
AGARICUS PERSONATUS.
Blewits. Blue Hats. _Cooke._
This is one of the species occasionally sold in Covent-Garden Market,
London. When mature, it has a soft, convex, moist, smooth pileus, with a
solid, somewhat bulbous stem, tinted with lilac. The gills are
dirty-white, and rounded towards the stem.
The _Agaricus personatus_ constitutes one of the very few mushrooms
which have a market value in England. It is quite essential that it
should be collected in dry weather, as it absorbs moisture readily, and
is thereby injured in flavor, and rendered more liable to decay.
AGARICUS PRUNULUS. _Vitt._ _M'Int._
This is found only in spring, growing in rings on the borders of
wood-lands; at which time abundance of its spawn may be procured, and
may be continued in the same way that the spawn of the common cultivated
Mushroom is; namely, by transplanting it into bricks of loam and
horse-dung, in which it will keep for months.
This mushroom is used both in its green and dried state. In the latter
it constitutes what is called "Funghi di Genoa," and is preserved by
being simply cut into four pieces, and dried in the air for a few days;
when it is strung up, and kept for use.
AGARICUS OREADES.
Fairy-ring Agaricus.
There is little difficulty in distinguishing this mushroom, which is
found growing in rings. The pileus is of a brownish-ochre color at
first; becomes paler as it grows older, until it fades into a rich
cream-yellow.
Dr. Badham says, "Independent of the excellent flavor of this little
mushroom, two circumstances make it valuable in a domestic point of
view,--the facility with which it is dried, and its extensive
dissemination." It may be kept for years without losing any of its aroma
or goodness.
* * * * *
BOLETUS. _Fries._
Of this, two species are considered eatable,--the _B. edulis_ and the
_B. scaber_; the former resembling the Common Mushroom in taste, and the
latter of good quality while in a young, fresh state, but of little
value when dried, as it loses much of its odor, and becomes insipid, and
unfit for use.
* * * * *
CLAVARIA.
All the species are edible, and many of them indigenous to our woods;
being usually found in damp, shady places.
* * * * *
THE MOREL. _M'Int._
Morchella esculenta.
[Illustration: The Morel.]
In its natural state, the Morel is found growing in orchards, damp
woods, and in moist pastures. Its height is about four inches. It is
distinguished by its white, cylindrical, hollow, or solid, smooth stem;
its cap is of a pale-brown or gray color, nearly spherical, hollow,
adheres to the stem by its base, and is deeply pitted over its entire
surface. It is in perfection early in the season; but should not be
gathered soon after rain, or while wet with dew. If gathered when dry,
it may be preserved for several months.
_Use._--The Morels are used, like the Truffle, as an ingredient to
heighten the flavor of ragouts, gravies, and other rich dishes. They are
used either fresh or in a dried state.
_Cultivation._--Its cultivation, if ever attempted, has been carried on
to a very limited extent. Of its capability of submitting to culture,
there can be little doubt. If the spawn were collected from its natural
habitats in June, and planted in beds differently formed, but
approximating as nearly as possible to its natural conditions, a proper
mode of cultivation would assuredly be in time arrived at. Persoon
remarks that "it prefers a chalky or argillaceous soil to one of a sandy
nature; and that it not unfrequently springs up where charcoal has been
burned, or where cinders have been thrown."
"The great value of the Morel--which is one of the most expensive
luxuries furnished by the Italian warehouses, and which is by no means
met with in the same abundance as some others of the Fungi--deserves to
be better known than it is at present." The genus comprises a very few
species, and they are all edible.
* * * * *
COMMON TRUFFLE.
Tuber cibarium.
[Illustration: The Truffle.]
On the authority of our most distinguished mycologists, the Common
Truffle has not yet been discovered within the limits of the United
States. It is said to be found abundantly in some parts of Great
Britain, particularly in Wiltshire, Kent, and Hampshire. It is collected
in large quantities in some portions of France, and is indigenous to
other countries of Europe.
The following description by Mascall, in connection with the engraving,
will give an accurate idea of its size, form, color, and general
character: "The size rarely much exceeds that of a large walnut. Its
form is rounded, sometimes kidney-shaped, and rough with protuberances.
The surface, when the truffle is young, is whitish; but, in those that
are full grown, it is either blackish or a deep-black. The color of the
inside is whitish, with dark-blue and white, gray, reddish, light-brown
or dark-brown veins, of the thickness of a horse-hair, which are usually
variously entangled, and which form a kind of network, or mat. Between
the veins are numerous cavities, filled with mucilage, and small, solid
grains. These scarcely visible glands were formerly said to be the
seeds, or germs, of the young truffles. The less the inside of the
Truffle is colored with dark veins, the more tender and delicious is its
flesh.
"The blackish, external rind is hard, and very rough, by means of fine
fissures, grains, and protuberances; and forms, with its small facets
(which are almost hexagonal), an appearance by which it somewhat
resembles the fir-apples of the larch. Whilst the truffle is young, its
smell resembles that of putrid plants, or of moist, vegetable earth.
When it has nearly attained its full growth, it diffuses an agreeable
smell, which is peculiar to it, resembling that of musk, which lasts
only a few days: it then becomes stronger; and the nearer the fungus is
to its dissolution, which speedily ensues, so much the more unpleasant
is its odor, till at last it is quite disagreeable and putrid. Whilst
young, the flesh is watery, and the taste insipid: when fully formed,
its firm flesh, which is like the kernel of the almond, has an extremely
aromatic and delicious taste; but as soon as the fungus begins to decay,
and worms and putrescence to attack it, its taste is bitter and
disagreeable."
Many attempts have been made in Great Britain, as well as in other parts
of Europe, to propagate the Truffle by artificial means; but all
experiments thus far, if they have not totally failed, have been
attended by very unsatisfactory results.
_Use._--Like the Common Mushroom, it is used principally in stuffings,
gravies, and sauces, and in other very highly seasoned culinary
preparations. It has long been held in high esteem by epicures and the
opulent; but, from its extreme rarity, has always commanded a price
which has effectually prohibited its general use. It has been truthfully
remarked, "that few know how to raise it, and fewer still possess the
proper knowledge to prepare it for the table."
PIEDMONTESE TRUFFLE. _Thomp._
Tuber magnatum.
This species is the most celebrated of all the truffles, and always
commands an enormous price. It occurs abundantly in the mountains of
Piedmont, and probably nowhere else.
TUBER MELANOSPORUM. _Thomp._
This is the Truffle of the Paris markets. It is richly scented, and also
greatly superior in flavor to the common sorts.
Other genera and species of Fungi are considered harmless, and are
occasionally used for food. Some of the edible kinds, however, in size,
form, color, and organization, so closely approach certain poisonous or
deleterious species, as to confuse even the most experienced student.
None of the family (not excepting even the common cultivated Mushroom)
should therefore be gathered for use, except by those who may possess a
thorough knowledge of the various species and their properties.