MYSTERIES OF WASHINGTON CITY,
DURING SEVERAL MONTHS OF THE
SESSION OF THE 28th CONGRESS.
By a Citizen of Ohio.
Washington, D. C.
PRINTED BY G. A. SAGE, E STREET, NEAR NINTH
1844.
Entered according to the act of Congress in the office of the clerk of
the District Court of the District of Columbia, by CALEB ATWATER, in
the year 1844.
DEDICATION.
To the Members of the twenty-eighth Congress, Senators, Representatives
and their officers, this little volume is respectfully dedicated, as a
small token of high regard for them, as officers of the government of
the United States, and as men, devoted to the best interests of their
country, by their old friend and fellow citizen,
THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
This small volume is the first of a series, which the author proposes
to write for the amusement, and he hopes, for the information of
his countrymen. This is “Mysteries,” the next will be “Humbugs of
Washington city” and the third volume if deemed necessary, to reform
the public morals, will be “the crimes of Washington city.” Whoever
reads this little work, will find in it no malice, nor even ill will
towards individuals, whom the author wishes to reform, not to destroy,
by exposing vice and recommending virtue in its loveliness and beauty.
He is happy to be able to say, that the people of this district
have been growing better during twenty years past. Several of the
Departments, perhaps all of them, are better conducted than formerly.
There is in them a better system. We refer more especially to the
Treasury Department--the General Land Office and the Department of
the General Post Office. The State Department is and always was well
enough. All party spirit has been carefully avoided in writing this
little book. Feeling no ill will towards any one, for opinion’s sake,
the author has expressed none towards the good men with whom he has
freely associated during several months past. Treated kindly himself
by men of all parties, he has endeavored to treat them as they have
treated him, during this protracted session of Congress. In his _next
volume_ he proposes to describe the Patent Office, the War Office and
the Navy Department. He hopes to be able soon to begin his visits
to them, and continue his visits until he understands fully what is
in those departments, so that the people can learn correctly whether
_common report_ be true or false respecting them. THE INDIAN BUREAU
WILL BE EXAMINED.
Errors in this first edition of an original work could not be avoided,
and the reader, it is hoped, will correct them as he reads the work
the first time. Unless this volume is soon sold, his next work, “THE
HUMBUGS” will be put to the press when Congress rises. The author will
_take off his gloves_ when he writes that volume during the dog-days.
The reader’s humble servant,
THE AUTHOR.
WASHINGTON CITY, June 1st, 1844.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Journey to Washington City.--A day at Wheeling, in Virginia.--
Ride to Cumberland over the Alleghany mountains.--Extremely cold
weather in a crowded Stage.--Arrival at Cumberland two hours
too late to take the Rail-road cars to Baltimore, through the
management of stage drivers and tavern keepers, on the route.--
Arrival at Washington City on New Year’s day.--Reflections on the
change in every thing, in the city, since that day fourteen years.
--Interviews with the President, Major William B. Lewis, Governor
Woodbury, and many old friends, at Mrs. Hamilton’s, on Pennsylvania
Avenue.--Biographical Sketch of Levi Woodbury.
CHAPTER II.
Journey from Washington to Philadelphia.--A day at Philadelphia.
--Journey to New York on the rail-road.--Stop on Broadway.--A
dinner consisting of ice water and one mouthful of roast beef!--
Bill of fare, but no fare.--Thefts and burglary.--Broadstreet
Hotel corner of Broad and Pearl streets.--Fare excellent, but no
BILL OF FARE on the table at dinner.--Charles A. Clinton and Dr.
Hosack.--Mrs. Lentner’s on Amity street, where Colonel Trumbull
lived and died.--Albert Gallatin and his lady on Beekman street.
--Mr. Gallatin’s eventful life.--How employed in the study of
Indian languages.--His inquiries concerning his old friends in
the District of Columbia.--Their feeling towards him and Mrs.
Gallatin, and the comparisons they are now daily compelled to
make.--The trade of New York city, its vast amount and probable
increase, which will eventually render it the greatest commercial
emporium in the world.--Rail-road to the Pacific ocean and a fair
prospect of its connecting our Atlantic cities with China and the
Pacific islands, by means of rail-roads and steam vessels.--The
future wealth, grandeur and moral glory of this republic.
CHAPTER III.
Return to Washington.--The different degrees of temperature in the
atmosphere at different places seen in the thickness of the ice in
the rivers from New York to Washington inclusive.--Long interview
with the President. His misfortunes rather than his faults.--
His cheerfulness, and his views as to Liberia.--Supernumeraries
ought to be set to work and sent off.--Beautiful situation of
Washington.--The Congress library, its officers and the agreeable
company usually in the library room.--Army of little officers
in and about the capitol.--Judge Upshur, personal acquaintance
with him, his character and death.--The tragedy on board the
Princeton.--Great funeral and a whole city in tears for the loss
of so many distinguished citizens.
CHAPTER IV.
Mr. Dana’s speech against the military Academy.--Objections--
it is an aristocratic institution.--1st in its selection of
candidates--2nd in its monopoly of military commissions.--Its
expenses are enormous and wholly disproportioned to any advantages
to be derived from it.--Its positive evils, as it operates on the
officers and on the private soldiers.--Mr. Dana might have added,
that if this republic is in danger from any quarter, its danger
lies in this institution.
CHAPTER V.
This chapter is serious, grave, gay and mysterious.--Good advice
to Uncle Sam.--A dream which clears up the mystery of beards and
mustaches, and accounts for some things, but cannot account for
others, until the author dreams again; perhaps not even then!--
Inquiries and doubts, not answered or solved in this chapter.
CHAPTER VI.
Officers of both houses of Congress.--Vice President Mangum.--
Speaker Jones.--Members of Congress, their labors and unenviable
state.--Eloquence of members.--Senators Choate, Crittenden,
Morehead, &c. &c.--The Tariff, Oregon and Texas to go down to
the foot of the docket and be postponed until next session of our
honorable court.
CHAPTER VII.
Visit to Mr. Calhoun, Secretary of State.--Alexandria, its early
history.--Reminisences of General Washington.--Memoir of Mr.
Anthony Charles Cazenove; a most interesting tale.--He was the
old partner of Albert Gallatin, at New Geneva, Pennsylvania.
CHAPTER VIII.
Officers of the government.--Remarks on the permanency of the seat
of government.--No authority in the constitution to remove it.
--Monomaniacs, one who fancies himself in paradise! and the other
expects to be elected the next president!--Other monomaniacs
equally crazy.--LOCAL INFORMATION.
CHAPTER I.
Journey to Washington City.--A day at Wheeling, in Virginia.--
Ride to Cumberland over the Allegheny mountain.--Extremely cold
weather in a crowded Stage.--Arrival at Cumberland two hours
too late to take the Rail-road cars to Baltimore, through the
management of stage drivers and tavern keepers, on the route.--
Arrival at Washington City on New Year’s day.--Reflections on the
change in every thing, in the city, since that day fourteen years.
--Interviews with the President, Major William B. Lewis, Governor
Woodbury, and many old friends, at Mrs. Hamilton’s, on Pennsylvania
Avenue.--Biographical Sketch of Levi Woodbury.
Leaving Columbus, the seat of government, in the State of Ohio, on
the morning of the twenty-sixth of November, in the stage, in company
with six or seven passengers, we arrived at Wheeling, in Virginia, in
exactly twenty-four hours. The distance is somewhat over one hundred
and thirty miles. We passed over the National road, then in a good
condition for travelling on it. Stopping at the Virginia Hotel in
Wheeling, we ascertained that we were too late for the stage that would
pass over the road to Cumberland, in season for the rail-road cars
next morning; and so we concluded to tarry where we were, until next
day. Resting ourselves here that day, and laying by sleep enough for
the route between Wheeling and Cumberland, we took an early start the
next morning, and passed over the Alleghanies during the succeeding
night. We travelled some fifty miles or upwards on the ridge of that
mountain, which is four thousand feet above the ocean, and on one
point it is nearly, if not quite, five thousand feet in height. It was
extremely cold, and the snow was several inches in depth. The cracks
in the doors and windows of the stage, admitted the piercing cold
more freely than we could have wished. We were nine in number, and
were quite incommoded and uncomfortably stowed away. The stage driver
insisted on stopping at every tavern, that we passed, almost, during
the night, and the tavern keepers themselves were quite importunate,
and strove to induce us to stop and warm ourselves by their large coal
fires in their bar-rooms.
These arts of stage drivers and tavern keepers combined, detained us
so long, notwithstanding all our exertions to prevent it, that they
produced the effect which it was intended to produce: we arrived
at Cumberland, in Maryland, about two hours too late for the cars
that day, and so we were detained at that town until next morning.
If the tavern keepers at Wheeling and Cumberland could be believed,
though we had our doubts, they were excessively offended at all who
were concerned in delaying us on our route, viz.: the stage agent at
Wheeling, and the drivers and tavern keepers on the mountain, from
the top of Laurel Hill, to Frostburgh inclusive. On the last day of
December, 1843, we left Cumberland early in the morning, and in ten
hours we were safely landed in Baltimore, passing over one hundred and
eighty miles of rail-road in that period of time. For such a distance,
of continuous rail-road, this is a most excellent road, and the ride
is a very pleasant one. Our stoppages were neither numerous nor did we
tarry long at any one place. At Harper’s Ferry we stopped to dine, but
prefering to take our refreshment in the cars, we were gratified in
that way, thereby saving one-half the expense and one-half the usual
time of tarrying here to take a regular dinner. The towns through which
we passed, between Cumberland and Baltimore, are small ones, but are
improving in appearance. In Baltimore I stopped at Bradshaw’s, near the
depot, and there found a good, comfortable room, a good bed, and good
breakfast for one dollar. Leaving Baltimore in the cars at 8 o’clock,
A. M., we reached Washington city, at 10 o’clock, in the morning, on
New Year’s day. I had expected to have seen, at least, one hundred
thousand people in Pennsylvania Avenue, on New Year’s day, as I saw,
on that day fourteen years before. Now, I saw no crowd, no bustle, and
heard no noise, and saw no stir. There was, however, as I learned at
supper from some clerks who boarded where I put up, a levee of clerks
and officers, who were dependants on the heads of Departments, and
they called it “a crowd” of officers and office seekers? The nation
had increased in numbers, greatly, since 1830, but only one thousand
officers attended at the White house that day, whereas one hundred
thousand people thronged the Avenue fourteen years before! Such was my
impression from what I saw and heard that day. The change was striking,
and told the different feelings of the people towards the Captain,
from those formerly evinced towards the old General. I leave it to the
reader to decide on the cause, but the fact made an impression at the
time, and forced the comparison on my own mind, on the first day of the
year 1844. Both days, that is, the first day of January 1830, and New
Year’s day 1844, were equally fair, and the Avenue was now in a better
condition than formerly, made so, at a large expense, by the nation.
The officers of the government had doubled in numbers around the Chief
Magistrate, but THE PEOPLE were not here now.
I had been absent from the city ever since early in August 1832,
and it had undergone a change in its exterior appearance, in the
mean time, of some magnitude. Its vacant lots had been built on, in
many places; old buildings had been removed, and new ones, many of
them large and elegant ones, had been erected in their stead. The
improvements about the public buildings: the Capitol, the War office,
the President’s house, &c., were considerable, and had cost the nation
large sums of money. Besides these improvements, a new building of
large dimensions had been built instead of the old Post Office, that
fire had destroyed, since I had been here. A new Patent Office, of
dimensions quite too large for any use to which the nation ought to
devote it, had been built. The structure of this building seemed to
me, to be such, that it will fall down in a few years. A new Treasury
Office of vast dimensions, had also been built, since I had visited the
city. Washington had now assumed more of a city-like aspect, instead
of its old one, of a long straggling village. More churches had been
built, in various parts of the city, and no disgusting sights of
beggars and prostitutes met the eye. These circumstances added much to
my satisfaction on my first day’s visit to the seat of Government. I
met and shook hands with many old friends, residing either here or in
Georgetown. Washington no longer presents the outside of vice, and that
circumstance speaks highly of those, who have so zealously laboured
to improve the morals, and mend the hearts, of the great mass of the
citizens. Their labors must have been great, otherwise such success
would not have followed their works.
I attended, afterwards, divine service in several of their churches
in the city, and once in the Episcopal church, with General Archibald
Henderson’s family, at the Navy Yard, but I always found good
preaching, and orderly, and even devout congregations attending
church. In the streets of the city, I have never seen an intoxicated
person, whereas, twelve years since, I have seen fifty such sights in
a day. Many of them were Members of Congress! During this long visit
of several months, constantly visiting all the public places, I have
not seen one Member of Congress, either intoxicated or in any wise
misbehaving himself, on any occasion.
There may be vice here, but it no longer exhibits its disgusting front
in public, and I have not sought for it, nor wished to find it. It
is true, the passengers see signs in several places on the Avenue,
with the words “BILLIARDS,” or “BILLIARD SALOON,” printed on them,
but otherwise, the stranger would not know without inquiry, where the
gamblers resort for gaining what they call an “honest livelihood.” The
reflections I drew from such premises, assure me of an improved state
of morals, in the nation itself, in many respects. We may hope that
moral feelings and moral principles, will one day govern this great
Republic, through its representatives, in our legislative assemblies.
Let us hope, too, that the day is not far off, when our highest
officers, civil, naval, and military, will be sober, honest, and moral
men. Many, perhaps all, or nearly all, of our older officers are
such men even now--such men as General Henderson, Col. Abert, General
Bomford, General Gibson, Col. Totten, General Towson, Maj. Lewis, Judge
Blake, M. St. Clair Clarke, and many others, are such men now. The high
respect in which these men are held by all who know them, will have a
good effect on all their subordinates. The low estimation, likewise,
in which men in high places, of an opposite character, are held here
and elsewhere, will produce its good effects also. They stand out as
beacons on the ocean of life, to warn off every mariner from such an
iron bound coast. The success which has always attended the sons and
daughters of such good men, and the total ruin which has followed, and
overwhelmed the children of wicked officers of government, teach the
same lessons of prudence, wisdom, and virtue.
It argues but poorly in favor of an aristocracy in this country, to
see, in the offices, as minor clerks, the sons of highly respectable
fathers, unless it be in cases, where a man with a family is reduced by
misfortunes and losses, by untoward events, without any fault of his;
or he may have been a literary man, like William Darby. In such a case,
the government may, on the purest principles of morals, give such a
man some easy place as a shelter in his old age. Such an act ought to
rescue such a head of department from oblivion. Judge Blake deserves
and receives his reward in the good opinion of all good men.
Speaking of clerks, it is to be regretted that the young men of
this district should, early in life, accept of a clerkship, instead
of setting out at once for themselves, whereby they can be more
independent and have a better prospect of rising in the world as
respectable men and useful ones too, than a clerkship can ever afford
them. I was told that it was no very uncommon sight to see in a day one
hundred such young men in office hours, walking the streets, standing
in refectories, drinking spirits, or lounging about the lobbies of the
two houses, or sauntering about the rotundo with an umbrella over their
heads, leading about some female friend! I was told also, that while
these loafers were thus engaged, the older clerks and older men with
families to support, were over worked in their several offices. One
hundred such clerks with high salaries, (often the highest ones) ought
to be dismissed in a day, and substitutes found in the western states,
who have almost nothing here in the departments. Such a state of things
would sink any administration in the estimation of all the West.
I give this story for what it is worth, and for the sake of unity,
in relation to the appointment of clerks, whose residence is in
the District, we relate here another anecdote, which, in order of
time belongs to a more recent era than the early part of our present
visit. On the morning of the day when Messrs. Gilmer and Wilkins were
nominated to the Senate, for the purpose of getting those nominations
made that day, I called at the White House very early in the morning,
and being the first on the spot by half an hour, the President, in
accordance with his usual politeness towards me, directed the messenger
to give to me, as the first one that morning whom he would see, the key
of the door that led to the President’s room, up stairs. I took the key
and opened the door, putting my hand against the door case to prevent
an ugly old woman getting ahead of me, on my way to see the President;
but the old lady stooping under my arm and running before me, cried out
aloud, “W...... ought to be clerk, W...... ought to be clerk.” She kept
before me, running a race, thus proclaiming, at the top of her voice,
until she reached the President’s room, where seating herself without
leave or licence, she continued her clamor for some minutes.--Finally,
finding no opportunity to be alone with the Chief Magistrate, I opened
to him my business, notwithstanding the presence of this old witch
of Endor. She declared that “although they had lived in the District
almost one whole year, yet during all that long period they had
procured no office yet.” They had kept boarders, for which they had
received only thirteen dollars a week for each boarder! They had been
compelled, it seems, to hire a man at ten dollars a month, to wait on
the boarders! yet neither her husband nor her son-in-law had received
any office yet. Hearing that two Secretaries were to be nominated that
day, she modestly insisted on “her husband’s being a clerk under one
of them.” The President told her, “that he had nothing to do with such
appointments, which he left to the Secretaries to make.” It seems,
from the best information I could obtain, that women, belonging to this
District, and parts of Maryland and Virginia near Washington, come
here, constantly soliciting offices for their sons, husbands and other
relatives. That they have often succeeded, is evident enough to the
public injury, and to the injury of the public officers themselves.
Were the same rules adopted now, that Jefferson and Madison adhered to
formerly, a vast deal of personal inconvenience to the President would
be avoided. The Presidents, to whom I have referred, required that all
applications for offices should be made in writing. If the office was
derived from the President and Senate, the application had to be made
to the President; but if the office applied for came from a Secretary,
then he only was addressed, but it must be in writing. A story has been
for some time past running around the whole Union, during the last
year, in relation to the appointment of a clerk. The tale itself is
derived, we presume, from some officer here, yet is doubtless wholly
untrue. Could that officer be believed, a woman, residing in or near
the District, frequently called to see the President, in order to get
her husband appointed a clerk. After many vain attempts to accomplish
her wishes, she is represented as having succeeded at last by informing
the Chief Magistrate, “that her husband was entirely helpless in his
bed from sickness, and that she and her children must come to want
unless her husband was appointed a clerk!”
Having recounted my first impressions on my arrival here, I proceed
in my personal narrative. On the next day, early in the forenoon of
January second, I called on my old friend, Major William B. Lewis,
Second Auditor, located in the War Office building, whom I found
disengaged. After a few minutes’ conversation, he began to tell me
about how my business had been treated in the War Office, by the late
Secretary of War and the present Commissioner of Indian Affairs. He
spoke an hour, in which time he entirely acquitted President Tyler of
all participation in the oppression, of which I had been the object.
I had been informed quite the reverse by our delegation, on the
authority of the men, who were the only authors of all the injustice
which had been done to me. On the next day I saw the man who had
wronged me; and although I did not even allude to his conduct towards
me, I became entirely satisfied of his guilt, and so made up my mind
accordingly. The next step required me, I thought, to make the proper
apology to an injured man, injured by his worst enemies, who pretended
to be his best friends. On the first day that I called to see the
President, the members of Congress occupied the President’s time so
long, that I could not see him that day. I called again next day, and
through the friendship of Judge French of Kentucky, who spoke to the
western members then waiting to see the President, and more especially
through the aid of the Hon. T. Jefferson Henley of Indiana, I saw
the President and conversed with him about my claim. Mr. Henley lived
opposite Louisville, (when at home,) on the Ohio river. He represented
a part of Indiana with which I was formerly well acquainted. He stood
by me, and insisted on the President seeing me and conversing with me
on my business. The President came out of his room to see me, instead
of inviting _me_ into his room. He seemed not to know what had been
done, and he referred me to Maj. Lewis for information; but as the
Auditor could not originate an account, and, in as much too, as the
then Secretary of War, I well knew, could not pass the Senate, I
preferred deferring my business until another Secretary of War had been
appointed. I therefore deferred the presentation of any claim until a
future day.
Walking along the avenue towards Gadsby’s, I heard a loud voice behind
me, and turning around, I saw following me, with a quick step, Levi
Woodbury, now a Senator from New Hampshire, formerly a Secretary,
first of the Naval, next of the Treasury department. I was happy,
indeed, to meet such an old friend, after a separation of more than
eleven years’ continuance. He was in the best health and spirits, and
exacted a promise from me, that I would spend that evening with him and
his family, at Mrs. Hamilton’s, on the avenue. At early candle light I
went to see him, but, in addition to his family, I found there a large
number of old friends, members of Congress and others. It was a most
agreeable meeting of old friends, who had once been the supporters of
General Jackson. Old scenes were recalled to our minds, and all were
very happy for the time being. Gov. Hill of New Hampshire, was the
only one who did not laugh heartily on that occasion. His nomination
for some little office was before the Senate for confirmation, and his
fears, if he had any, were well founded, because his nomination was
not confirmed, but rejected not long afterwards by the Senate. Among
the ladies present, were Mrs. Woodbury and her three daughters. They
are New England’s best beauties--they have handsome forms, and they are
beautiful in face, body and mind. The whole family, father, mother
and daughters, present one of the best family groups I ever saw in my
whole life. Their persons, minds and manners are in perfect keeping, of
which New Hampshire may well be proud, as ornaments, physical, mental
and moral, of the Granite State. Seeing them, and listening to their
conversation, I thought, though I did not say so, that, unless the
unmarried members of Congress had hearts harder than granite itself,
and colder than northern icebergs, these young ladies would soon have
good husbands and good homes in our delightful Great Western valley.
Give us millions of just such people in the West, to cultivate and
adorn the largest, the best and most fertile valley on the whole globe.
Levi Woodbury was born in Francistown, in New Hampshire, in the year
1790. His father, Peter Woodbury, emigrated, when quite young, from
Beverly, in Massachusetts, to the town where Governor Woodbury was
born. We do not propose in this biographical notice of one who has
successively filled, with credit to himself and honor to his native
state, so many high and important public stations, any thing more
than a mere passing notice of one of the most industrious, polite,
kind and useful men in the present Congress. The early education of
Mr. Woodbury was acquired in the common schools of his native town.
During a short period, he was employed, when young, a mere youth of
fourteen or fifteen years of age, in teaching a school in Pepperell, in
Massachusetts. In 1805 he entered Dartmouth college, and was regularly
graduated at that institution. As a scholar, he stood very high in
his class. This circumstance, in addition to his devotion to literary
pursuits, in all probability, induced his alma mater to confer on
him the degree of LL. D. at a subsequent period of his life. After
graduating at Dartmouth college, Mr. Woodbury studied law one year with
Judge Reeve, at Litchfield, Connecticut, and completing his law studies
at other places, was admitted to the bar in 1812, and immediately
opened a law office in his native town. At the time when Mr. Woodbury
began his career as a lawyer, party spirit ran high in New Hampshire;
the majority were opposed to the war and the then administration of
the general government. Mr. Woodbury supported the war, and often
addressed public meetings, and drew up and introduced into them
spirited resolutions, which produced considerable effect on the minds
of his fellow citizens. During several years, the party opposed to the
war, governed the State, until 1816, perhaps. During these four years
Mr. Woodbury rose into a great practice at the bar, and stood high too
as a politician with his party. In 1816, when his party had become a
majority in the legislature, he was elected clerk of the Senate. In the
next January he was appointed a judge of the superior court. Having
at such an early age been appointed to the highest judicial station
in the State, the public attention was naturally turned towards him.
His quick apprehension, his reach of thought, his firmness and moral
courage, rendered him a model, it is said, of judicial deportment. His
judicial decisions are reported and held in high estimation by the
lawyers of New Hampshire. In 1823, Judge Woodbury was elected Governor
of the State, but returned to the practice of the law in 1824. His
law practice was instantly considerable, and he was sought for as a
lawyer by persons in every part of the State. In 1819 he was married
to Miss Clapp of Portland in Maine. In the year 1825 he was elected a
representative from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to the legislature. He
had settled himself as a lawyer, on his marriage, in Portsmouth. By
the legislature, to which he had been elected, he was chosen Speaker
of the House of Representatives, and towards the close of the session
he was elected to the Senate of the United States. We have been the
more careful to notice every step of Mr. Woodbury’s advancement, until
he reached the United States Senate, because, as soon as he appeared
in that body, he was seen by the whole nation; and from that time to
the present moment, he has always been where the whole nation could
see him. His labors on committees, in the Senate, have been great and
useful to his country. As Secretary of the Navy, and subsequently
Secretary of the Treasury department, he has shown talents of a
superior cast. It is a striking fact, that he and his friend Cass, of
the same State originally, are possibly the only men whom their party
could, by possibility succeed in electing at the next presidential
election.
To those who personally know Mr. Woodbury, it is unnecessary to state,
that in his manners he is one of the most agreeable men in the world.
Finally, himself and Mrs. Woodbury, have the most beautiful, well bred
and polite family now attending on this session of Congress. Their
persons are not less beautiful than their minds, their manners and
their hearts. I dismiss them from any further notice in my book, with
the fervent desire that God may bless them.