The date of the building establishes the fact of the pointed arch being

in use, not only as an occasional variation, but in the entire

construction of churches upon a grand scale, as early as the eleventh

century.--Sammarthanus tells us that Bishop Herbert, who died in 1049,

began to build this church, but did not live to see it completed; and

Ordericus Vitalis expressly adds, that Hugh, the successor to Herbert,

upon his death-bed, in 1077, while retracing his past life, made use of

these words:--"Ecclesiam Sancti Petri, principis apostolorum, quam

venerabilis Herbertus, praedecessor meus, coepit, perfeci, studiosè

adornavi, honorificè dedicavi, et cultoribus necessariisque divino

servitio vasis aliisque apparatibus copiosè ditavi."--Language of this

kind appears too explicit to leave room for ambiguity, but an opinion

has still prevailed, founded probably upon the style of the

architecture, that the cathedral was not finished till near the

expiration of the thirteenth century. Admitting, however, such to be the

fact, I do not see how it will materially help those who favor the

opinion; for the building is far from being, as commonly happens in

great churches, a medley of incongruous parts; but it is upon one fixed

plan; and, as it was begun, so it was ended.--The exterior of the

extremity of the south transept is a still more complete example of the

early pointed style than the west front: this style, which was the most

chaste, and, if I may be allowed to use the expression, the most severe

of all, scarcely any where displays itself to greater advantage. The

central window is composed of five lancet divisions, supported upon

slender pillars: massy buttresses of several splays bound it on either

side.

The same character of uniformity extends over the interior of the

building. On each side of the nave is a side-aisle; and, beyond the

aisles, chapels. The pillars of the nave are cylindrical, solid, and

plain. Their bases end with foliage at each corner, and foliage is also

sculptured upon the capitals. The arches which they support are

acute.--The triforium is similar in plan to the part below; but the

capitals of the columns are considerably more enriched, with an obvious

imitation of the antique model, and every arch encircles two smaller

ones. In the clerestory the windows are modern.--The transepts appear

the oldest parts of the cathedral, as is not unfrequently the case;

whether they were really built before the rest, or that, from being less

used in the services of the church, they were less commonly the objects

of subsequent alterations. They are large; and each of them has an aisle

on the eastern side. The architecture of the choir resembles that of the

nave, except that the five pillars, which form the apsis, are slender

and the intervening arches more narrow and more acute.--The Lady-Chapel,

which is long and narrow, was built towards the middle of the fifteenth

century, by Peter Cauchon, thirty-sixth bishop of Lisieux, who, for his

steady attachment to the Anglo-Norman cause, was translated to this see,

in 1429, when Beauvais, of which he had previously been bishop, fell

into the hands of the French. He was selected, in 1431, for the

invidious office of presiding at the trial of the Maid of Orléans.

Repentance followed; and, as an atonement for his unrighteous conduct,

according to Ducarel, he erected this chapel, and therein founded a high

mass to the Holy Virgin, which was duly sung by the choristers, in

order, as is expressed in his endowment-charter, to expiate the false

judgment which he pronounced[64].--The two windows by the side of the

altar in this chapel have been painted of a crimson color, to add to the

effect produced upon entering the church; and, seen as they are, through

the long perspective of the nave and the distant arches of the choir,

the glowing tint is by no means unpleasing.--The central tower is open

within the church to a considerable height: it is supported by four

arches of unusual boldness, above which runs a row of small arches, of

the same character as the rest of the building; and, still higher, on

each side, are two lancet-windows.--The vaulting of the roof is very

plain, with bosses slightly pendant and carved.

[Illustration: Ancient Tomb in the Cathedral at Lisieux]

At the extremity of the north transept is an ancient stone sarcophagus,

so built into the wall, that it appears to have been incorporated with

the edifice, at the period when it was raised. The style of the

medallions which adorn it will be best understood by consulting the

annexed sketch, which is very faithful, though taken under every

possible disadvantage. The transept is now used as a school; and the

little filthy imps, who are there taught to drawl out their catechisms,

continued swarming round the feverish artist, during the progress of the

drawing. The character of the heads, the crowns, and the disposition of

the foliage, may be considered as indicating that it is a production, at

least of the Carlovingian period, if it be not indeed of earlier date. I

believe it is traditionally supposed to have been the tomb of a saint,

perhaps St. Candidus; but I am not quite certain whether I am accurate

in the recollection of the name.--Above are two armed statues, probably

of the twelfth or thirteenth centuries. These have been engraved by

Willemin, in his useful work, _Les Monumens Français_, under the title

of _Two Armed Warriors, in the Nave of the Cathedral at Lisieux_; and

both are there figured as if in all respects perfect, and with a great

many details which do not exist, and never could have existed, though at

the same time the draftsman has omitted the animals at the feet of the

statues, one of which is yet nearly entire.--This may be reckoned among

the innumerable proofs of the disregard of accuracy which pervades the

works of French antiquaries. A French designer never scruples to

sacrifice accuracy to what he considers effect.--Willemin describes the

monuments as being in the nave of the church. I suspect that he has

availed himself of the unpublished collection of Gaignat, in this and

many other instances. It is evident that originally the statues were

recumbent; but I cannot ascertain when they changed their position.--No

other tombs now exist in the cathedral: the brazen monument raised to

Hannuier, an Englishman, the marble that commemorated the bishop,

William d'Estouteville, founder of the _Collège de Lisieux_ at Paris,

that of Peter Cauchon in the Lady-Chapel, and all the rest, were

destroyed during the revolution.

The diocese of Lisieux was a more modern establishment than any other in

Normandy. Even those who are most desirous to honor it by antiquity, do

not venture to date its foundation higher than the middle of the sixth

century. Ordericus Vitalis, a monk of the province, suggests with some

reason that we ought not to be hasty in forming our judgment upon these

subjects; for that, owing to the destruction caused by the Norman

pirates and the abominable negligence (_damnabilis negligentia_) of

those to whom the care of the records of religious houses had

subsequently been intrusted, many documents had been irretrievably

lost.--The see of Lisieux was also peculiarly unfortunate, in having

twice been in a state of anarchy, and on each occasion for a period of

more than a century. The series of its prelates is interrupted from the

year 670 to 853, and again from 876 to 990.

It is rather extraordinary, that no one of the Lexovian bishops was ever

admitted by the church into the catalogue of her saints. Many of them

were prelates of unquestionable merit. Freculfus, in the ninth century,

was a patron of literature, and himself an author; Hugh of Eu, grandson

of Richard, Duke of Normandy, was one of the most illustrious

ecclesiastics of his day; Gilbert is described by Ordericus Vitalis as

having been a man of exemplary charity, and deeply versed in all

sciences, though it is admitted that he was somewhat too much addicted

to worldly pleasures, and not averse from gambling; and Arnulf, whose

letters and epigrams are preserved among the manuscripts of the Vatican,

was a prelate who would have done honor to St. Peter's chair.--All these

were bishops of Lisieux, during the ages when canonization was not

altogether so unfrequent as in our days. Arnulf particularly

distinguished himself by taking a leading part in the principal

transactions of the times. He accompanied the crusaders to the holy land

in 1147; five years subsequently he officiated at the marriage of Henry

Plantagenet with Eleanor of Guyenne, the repudiated wife of Louis le

Jeune, which was performed in his cathedral; he assisted at the

coronation of the same king, by whom he was shortly afterwards employed

in a mission of great importance at Rome; and he interposed to settle

the differences between that sovereign and Thomas à Becket; and though

he espoused the part of the prelate, he had the good fortune to retain

the favor of the monarch. A life thus eventful ended with the conviction

that all was vanity!--Arnulf, disgusted with sublunary honors, abdicated

his see and retired to a monastery at Paris, where he died.--One of the

immediate successors of this prelate, William of Rupierre, was the

ambassador of Richard Coeur-de-Lion to the Pope; and he pleaded the

cause of his sovereign against Walter, Archbishop of Rouen, on the

occasion of the differences that originated from the building of Château

Gaillard. He also resisted the power usurped by King John within the

city and liberties of Lisieux, and finally obtained a sentence from the

Norman court of exchequer, whereby the privileges of the dukes of the

province were restricted to what was called the _Placitum Spathæ_,

consisting of the right of billetting soldiers, of coining money, and of

hearing and determining in cases of appeal. The decision is honorable

both to the independence of the court, and the vigor of the prelate.--In

times nearer to our own, a bishop of Lisieux, Jean Hennuyer, obtained a

very different distinction. Authors are strangely at variance whether

this prelate is to be regarded as the protector or the persecutor of the

protestants. All agree that his church suffered materially from the

excesses of the Huguenots, in 1562, and that, on the following year, he

received public thanks from the Cardinal of Bourbon, for the firmness

with which he had opposed them; but the point at issue is, whether,

after the massacre of St. Bartholomew, ten years subsequently, he

withstood the sanguinary orders from the court to put the Huguenots to

the sword, or whether he endeavored, as far as lay in his power, to

forward the pious labor of extirpating the heretics, but was himself

effectually resisted by the king's own lieutenant.--Sammarthanus tells

us that the first of these traditions rests solely upon the authority

of Anthony Mallet[65] but it obtained general credence till within the

last three years, when a very well-informed writer, in the _Mercure de

France_, and subsequently in the article _Hennuyer_ in the

_Bibliographie Universelle_, espoused, and has apparently established,

the opposite opinion.

We visited only one other of the churches in Lisieux, that of St.

Jacques, a large edifice, in a bad style of pointed architecture, and

full of gaudy altars and ordinary pictures. On the outside of the stalls

of the choir towards the north is some curious carving; but I should

scarcely have been induced to have spoken of the building, were it not

for one of the paintings, which, however uninteresting as a piece of

art, appears to possess some historical value. It represents how the

bones of St. Ursinus were miraculously translated to Lisieux, under the

auspices of Hugh the Bishop, in 1055; and it professes, and apparently

with truth, to be a copy, made in the seventeenth century, from an

original of great antiquity. The legend relating to the relics of this

saint, is noticed by no author with whom I am acquainted, nor do I find

him mentioned any where in conjunction with the church of Lisieux, or

with any other Norman diocese.--But the extraordinary privilege granted

to the canons of the cathedral, of being Earls of Lisieux, and of

exercising all civil and criminal jurisdiction within the earldom, upon

the vigil and feast-day of St. Ursinus, in every year, is most probably

connected with the tradition commemorated by the picture. The actual

existence of the privilege, in modern times, we learn from Ducarel; who

also details at length the curious ceremonies with which the claim of it

was accompanied. The exercise of these rights was confirmed by a compact

between the canons and the bishop, who, prior to the revolution, united

the secular coronet of an earl with the episcopal mitre, and bore

supreme sway in all civil and ecclesiastical polity, during the

remaining three hundred and sixty-three days in the year.

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 61: This ordinance is preserved by Du Monstier in the

_Neustria Pia_, p. 400.]

[Footnote 62: The preamble of the charter is as follows:--"Nulli dubium

videri debet futuros esse haeredes Regni coelestis, et cohaeredes Dei,

qui Christum haeredem sui facientes, eorum, quæ in hujus vitae

peregrinatione, quasi a quadam paterna haereditate possident, locis ea

Divino cultui deditis mancipare non dubitant. Ad quam rem, nostram

firmat fidem calix aquæ frigidae, qui, juxta Evangelicum verbum, suo

pollet munere. Non ergò divini muneris gratia privari credendi sunt, qui

Ecclesiasticis obsequiis, etsi officio non intersunt, rerum tamen suarum

admistratione, Divini officii sustentant ministros: ea spe temporalem

subministrantes alimoniam, ut sic solummodò coelestibus reddant

intentos, qui coelestis Regis assiduo constituuntur invigilare obsequio,

participes fiant ejusmodi beneficii omnimodò."--_Neustria Pia_, p. 398.]

[Footnote 63: The following are the dimensions of the building, in

English feet:--

LENGTH. WIDTH.

Nave 54 15

Choir 45 15

North aisle 7

South ditto 15

]

[Footnote 64: _Anglo-Norman Antiquities_, p. 47.]

[Footnote 65: "Sed ne quid omittam eorum etiam quæ unum Antonium

_Mallet_ habent auctorem, anno 1572, cum prorex urbis Lexoviensis

Livarotus a Carolo rege literas accepisset, quibus qui Lexovii infecti

erant hæresi occidi omnes jubebantur per eos dies quibus princeps

civitas cruore ejus insaniæ hominum commaduerat, easque communicasset

episcopo: Neque sum passurus, inquit præsul, oves meas, et quamquam

evagatas Christi caula, meas tamen adhuc, necdum desperatas, gladio

trucidari. Referente contra prorege imperio se mandatoque urgeri

principis; quod si posthabeatur, omnem esse periculi aleam in caput suum

moriendique necessitatem redituram: Et polliceor, inquit episcopus, illa

te eximendum, postulantique cautionem, præsul consignatum manu sua

scriptum tradidit, fidem datam confirmans. Qua illico publicata

clementia, et ad errantes oves perlata, sollicitudine præsulis

vigilantis circa gregis commissi sibi salutem et conservationem, rediere

sensim in ecclesiæ sinum omnes quotquot Lexovii per ea tempora novum

istud fataleque delirium dementarat, nec ultra ibidem diu visi qui a

recta fide aberrarent."--_Gallia Christiana_, p. 802.]

LETTER XXII.

SITE AND RUINS OF THE CAPITAL OF THE LEXOVII--HISTORY OF

LISIEUX--MONASTERIES OF THE DIOCESE--ORDERICUS VITALIS--M.

DUBOIS--LETTER FROM THE PRINCESS BORGHESE.

(_Lisieux, July_, 1818.)

Lisieux represents one of the most ancient capitals of the primitive

tribes of Gaul. The Lexovii, noticed by Julius Cæsar, in his

_Commentaries_, and by other authors, who were almost contemporary with

the Roman conqueror, are supposed by modern geographers to have occupied

a territory nearly co-extensive with the bishopric of Lisieux; and it

may be remarked, that the bounds of the ancient bishoprics of France

were usually conterminal with the Roman provinces and prefectures.

The capital of the Lexovii was called the _Neomagus_ or _Noviomagus

Lexoviorum_; and no doubt ever was entertained but that the present city

occupied the same site, till an accidental discovery, in the year 1770,

proved the contrary to be the fact.--About that time a _chaussée_ was

formed between Lisieux and Caen; and, in the course of some excavations,

which were made under the direction of M. Hubert, the superintending

engineer, for the purpose of procuring stone, the laborers opened the

foundations of some ruined buildings scattered over a field, called _les

Tourettes_, about three-quarters of a mile from the former town. The

character of these foundations was of a nature to excite curiosity: they

were clearly the work of a remote age, and various specimens of ancient

art were dug up amongst the ruins. The extent of the foundations, which

spread over a space four times as large as the plot occupied by modern

Lisieux left no doubt but that Danville, and all other geographers, must

have been mistaken with respect to the position assigned by them to the

ancient Neomagus. M. Hubert drew a plan of the ruins, and accompanied it

with an historical memoir; but unfortunately he was a man little capable

of prosecuting such researches; and though M. Mongez, in his report to

the National Institute[66], eulogized the map as exact, and the memoir

as excellent, they were both of them extremely faulty. It was reserved

for M. Louis Dubois, of whom I shall have occasion to speak again before

I close this letter, to repair the omissions and rectify the mistakes of

M. Hubert, and he has done it with unremitting zeal and extraordinary

success. The researches of this gentleman, among the remains of Neomagus

Lexoviorum, have already brought to light a large number of valuable

medals, both in silver and bronze, as well as a considerable quantity of

fragments of foreign marble, granite, and porphyry, some of them

curiously wrought. The most important of his discoveries has been

recently made: it is that of a Roman amphitheatre, in a state of great

perfection, the grades being covered only by a thin layer of soil, which

a trifling expence of time and labor will effectually remove.

Such vestiges prove that Neomagus must have been a place of importance;

and, like the other Gallo-Roman cities, it would probably have

maintained its honors under the Franks; but about the middle of the

fourth century, the Saxons, swarming from the mouths of the Elbe and

Weser, laid waste the coasts of Belgium and of Neustria, and finally

established themselves in that portion of northern Gaul called the

_Secunda Lugdunensis_, which thence obtained, in the _Notitia Imperii_,

the title of the _Littus Saxonicum_.--In the course of these incursions,

it is supposed that Neomagus was utterly destroyed by the invaders. None

of the medals dug up within the precincts of the town, or in its

neighborhood, bear a later date than the reign of Constantine; and,

though the city is recorded in the _Itinerary of Antoninus_, no mention

of it is to be found in the curious chart, known by the name of the

_Tabula Peutingeriana_, formed under the reign of Theodosius the Great;

so that it then appears to have been completely swept away and

forgotten.

The new town of Lisieux and the bishopric most probably arose together,

towards the close of the sixth century; and the city, like other

provincial capitals in Gaul, took the name of the tribe by whom the

district had been peopled. It first appears in history under the

appellation of _Lexovium_ or _Lexobium_: in the eleventh century, when

Ordericus Vitalis composed his history, it was called _Luxovium_; and

soon after it became _Lixovium_, and _Lizovium_, which, gallicised,

naturally passed into _Lyzieulx_, or, as it is now written, _Lisieux_.

The city was ravaged by the Normans about the year 877, in the course of

one of their predatory excursions from Bayeux: it again felt their

vengeance early in the following century, when Rollo, after taking

Bayeux by storm, sacked Lisieux at the head of his army on his way to

Rouen. The conqueror was not put in possession of the Lexovian territory

by Charles the Simple till 923, eleven years after the rest of Neustria

had been ceded to him.

United to the duchy, Lisieux enjoyed a short respite from the calamities

of war; nor does it appear to have borne any prominent part in the

transactions of the times. The name, indeed, of the city occurs as the

seat of the council held for the purpose of degrading Malgerius from the

primacy of Normandy; but, except on this occasion, Lisieux is scarcely

mentioned till the first year of the twelfth century, when it was the

seat of rebellion. Ralph Flambart, bishop of Durham, a prelate of

unbounded arrogance, had fled from England, and joined Duke Robert, then

in arms against his brother. Raising the standard of insurrection, he

fixed himself at Lisieux, took forcible possession of the town, and

invested his son, only twelve years old, with the mitre[67], while he

himself exercised despotic authority over the inhabitants. At length, he

purchased peace and forgiveness, by opening the gates to his lawful

sovereign, after the battle of Tinchbray.--In the middle of October, in

the same year, Henry returned to Lisieux, and there held an assembly of

the Norman nobility and prelates, who proclaimed peace throughout the

duchy, enacted sundry strict regulations to prevent any infringement of

the laws, and decreed that Robert, the captive duke, should be consigned

to an English prison.--Two years subsequently, another council was also

assembled at Lisieux, by the same sovereign, and for nearly the same

objects; and again, in 1119, Henry convened his nobles a third time at

Lisieux, when this parliament ratified the peace concluded at Gisors,

six years previously, and witnessed the marriage[68] of the king's son,

William Adelin, with Matilda, daughter of Fulk, earl of Anjou.

Historical distinction is seldom enviable:--in the wars occasioned by

the usurpation of Stephen, Lisieux once more obtained an unfortunate

celebrity. The town was attacked in 1136, by the forces of Anjou, under

the command of Geoffrey Plantagenet, husband of the Empress Maud, joined

by those of William, Duke of Poitiers; and the garrison, consisting of

Bretons, seeing no hope of effectual resistance or of rescue, set fire

to the place to the extreme mortification of the invaders, who, in the

language of the chronicles of the times, "when they beheld the city and

all its wealth a prey to the flames, waxed exceedingly wroth, at being

deprived of the spoil; and grieved sorely for the loss of the booty

which perished in the conflagration."--The town, however, was not so

effectually ruined, but that, during the following year, it served King

Stephen as a rallying point, at which to collect his army to march

against his antagonist.--In 1169, it was distinguished by being selected

by Thomas à Becket, as the place of his retirement during his temporary

disgrace.

History from this time forward relates but little concerning Lisieux.

Though surrounded with walls during the bishopric of John, who was

promoted to the see early in the twelfth century, the situation of the

town, far from the coast or from the frontiers of the province, rendered

the inhabitants naturally unwarlike, and caused them in general to

submit quietly to the stronger party.--Brito, in his _Philippiad_, says

that, when Philip Augustus took Lisieux, in 1213, the Lexovians,

destitute of fountains, disputed with the toads for the water of the

muddy ditches. His mentioning such a fact is curious, as shewing that

public fountains were at that early period of frequent occurrence in

Normandy.--Our countrymen, in the fifteenth century, acted with great

rigor, to use the mildest terms, towards Lisieux. Henry, after landing

at Touques, in 1417, entered the town, in the character of an enraged

enemy, not as the sovereign of his people: he gave it up to plunder; and

even the public archives were not spared. The cruelty of our English

king is strongly contrasted by the conduct of the Count de Danois,

general of the army of Charles VIIth, to whom the town capitulated in

1449. Thomas Basin, then bishop, negociated with such ability, that,

according to Monstrelet, "not the slightest damage was done to any

individual, but each peaceably enjoyed his property as before the

surrender."

Account of a Tour in Normandy, Volume 2 · 第 9 / 21 段