_Lisbon, April 12, 1754._
_My dear Friend_,
PROVIDENCE still detains us at _Lisbon_, and therefore I know you will
be enquiring what more news from thence?――Truly, as extraordinary as
ever――for I have now seen the solemnities of an _Holy-Thursday_, which
is a very high day in this metropolis, and particularly remarkable for
the grand illuminations of the churches, and the king’s washing twelve
poor men’s feet.――Through the interest of a friend, I got admittance
into the gallery where the ceremony was performed. It was large, and
hung with tapestry; one piece of which represented the humble JESUS
washing the feet of his disciples.――Before this, upon a small eminence,
sat twelve men in black. At the upper end, and in several other parts
of the gallery, were side-boards of large gold and silver basons and
ewers most curiously wrought; and near these a large table covered
with a variety of dishes, all cold, set off and garnished after the
_Portuguese_ fashion. Public high mass being over, his majesty came in
attended with his nobles, who seemed to me to look like so many _Roman_
senators. The act of washing the feet, I did not get in time enough to
see; but that being ended, several of the young noblemen served up the
dishes to the king’s brother and uncles; these again handed them to
his majesty, who gave (I think) twelve of them in all to each poor man.
Every thing was carried on with a great deal of decency and good humour.
The young noblemen served very chearfully, their seniors looked quite
pleased, and the king and his royal relations behaved in a very polite,
easy manner,――upon the whole, though as you may easily guess it was
not an exact copy of the tapestry, yet, as the poor mens cloaths and
food, when sold, came to about ten moidores; and as there was little
mixture of superstition in it, I cannot say but I was as well pleased
with my morning’s entertainment as with any thing I had seen since my
arrival.――I believe the whole took up near two hours. After dinner we
went to see the churches; but the ♦magnificence and sumptuousness of
the furniture, cannot well be expressed.――Many of them were hung on
the occasion with purple damask trimmed with gold.――In one of them
there was a solid silver altar of several yards circumference, and near
twelve steps high: and in another a gold one, still more magnificent,
of about the same dimensions.――Its basis was studded with many precious
stones, and near the top were placed silver images, in representation
of angels. Each step was filled with large silver candlesticks, with
wax-tapers in them, which going up by a regular ascent, ’till they
formed themselves into a pyramid, made a most glittering and splendid
blaze.――The great altars also of the other churches were illuminated
most profusely, and silver pots of artificial flowers, with a large
wax-taper between each, were fixed all round several of them.――Between
these, were large paintings in black and white, representing the
different parts of our Saviour’s passion. And, in short, all was so
magnificently, so superstitiously grand, that I am persuaded several
thousands of pounds would not defray the expences of this one day.
Go which way you would, nothing was to be seen but illuminations
within, and hurry without.――For all persons, princes and crowned
heads themselves not excepted, are obliged on this day to visit seven
churches or altars, in imitation, as is supposed, of our LORD’s being
hurried from one tribunal to another, before he was condemned to be
hung upon the cross.――I saw the queen pass by in great state to visit
three of them. Velvet cushions were carried before her Majesty, and
boards laid along the streets for herself and retinue to walk upon.
Guards attended before and behind, and thousands of spectators stood
on each side to gaze at them as they passed along. Being desirous of
seeing the manner of their entrance, we got into the last church before
they came. It was that of _St. Domingo_, where was the gold altar
before mentioned, and at which her Majesty and train knelt about a
quarter of an hour.――All the while, the _Dominican_ friars sung most
surprisingly sweet. But as I stood near the altar, over against the
great door, I must confess my very inmost soul was struck with a secret
horror, when, upon looking up, I saw over the front of the great window
of the church, the heads of many hundred _Jews_, painted on canvas,
who had been condemned by what they call the _Holy Inquisition_,
and carried out from that church to be burnt.――Strange way this, of
compelling people to come in! Such was not thy method, O meek and
compassionate Lamb of GOD! Thou camest not to destroy mens lives,
but to save them.――But bigotry is as cruel as the grave.――It knows
no remorse.――From all its bitter and dire effects, good LORD deliver
us!――But to return to the Queen. Having performed her devotions, she
departed and went in a coach of state, I believe, directly from the
church to her palace, and without doubt sufficiently fatigued: for,
besides walking through the streets to the several churches, her
Majesty also, and the princesses, had been engaged in waiting upon,
and washing the feet of twelve poor women, in as public a manner as
the king. In our walk home, we met his Majesty with his brother and
two uncles, attended only with a few noblemen in black velvet, and
a few guards without halberts. I suppose he was returning from his
last church, and, as one may well imagine, equally fatigued with his
royal consort and daughters.――When church and state thus combine to be
nursing fathers and nursing mothers to superstition, is it any wonder
that its credit and influence is so diffusive among the populace?――O
_Britain! Britain!_ hast thou but zeal proportionable to thy knowledge,
and inward purity adequate to the simplicity of thy external worship,
in what a happy and god-like situation wouldst thou be! Here I could
weep again.――Again I leave you to guess the cause; and if I can send
you one more letter of a like nature, before we leave this place, it is
all you must expect from, my dear friend,
Your’s most assuredly in our glorious Head,
_G. W._
♦ “magnifience” replaced with “magnificence”