_To Mr. ――――._
_Lisbon, April 1, 1754._
_My dear Friend_,
BY this time, I suppose, you have heard of my arrival at _Lisbon_, and
are wondering what led me thither, especially since my last informed
you of my intention to go to _Georgia_ by way of _New-York_. This was
really my design at the time of my writing; but being afterward called
by Providence to take with me several orphan children, I thought it
most adviseable to go and settle them, and my other domestic affairs,
at the Orphan-house first, that I might visit the northern parts of
_America_ with more ease and freedom in my own mind.――It happened
that the _Success_, Captain _Thomson_, bound for _Port-Royal,
South-Carolina_, (which is not very far from _Georgia_) was then almost
ready to sail.――I sent for the Owner, and finding that the ship was to
touch at _Lisbon_ to unload some wheat, it occasioned a little demur;
but, upon second thoughts, believing it might be serviceable to me, as
a preacher and protestant, to see something of the superstitions of the
church of _Rome_, I took my passage, and embarked in the _Success_ the
7th of _March_. On the 14th we reached _Cape Finister_. On the 15th
came in sight of the _Burlings_; and on the 16th anchored safe before
_Bellem_, about four miles distance from _Lisbon_, the metropolis of
_Portugal_. As I knew nobody there, and had formed but an indifferent
idea of the inhabitants, from the account that had been given me of
them, I had purposed within myself to keep on board, and go ashore
only now and then in the day-time. But Providence so ordered it, that
a gentleman of the factory, who had heard me himself, and whose brother
had been awakened under my ministry several years ago, immediately, on
hearing of my arrival, sent me an offer of his house during my stay. I
thankfully accepted it; and special leave being procured for my going
ashore, I was carried in a chaise and pair from _Bellem_ to _Lisbon_.
A new scene, both in respect to the situation of the place, the fashion
of the buildings, and the dress of the inhabitants, presented itself
all the way. But what engaged my attention most, was the number of
crucifixes, and little images of the _Virgin Mary_, and of other real
or reputed saints, which were placed almost in every street, or fixed
against the walls of the houses almost at every turning, with lamps
hanging before them. To these, I observed the people bow as they passed
along; and near some of them stood several little companies, singing
with great earnestness.――――This seemed to me very odd, and gave me an
idea of what further ecclesiastical curiosities would probably fall in
my way, if I should be detained here any time. These expectations were
quickly raised; for, not long after my arrival at my new lodgings,
(where I was received and entertained with great gentility, hospitality
and friendliness) upon looking out of the window, I saw a company of
priests and friars bearing lighted wax tapers, and attended by various
sorts of people, some of which had bags and baskets of victuals in
their hands, and others carried provisions upon their shoulders on
sticks between two. After these, followed a mixed multitude, singing
with a very audible voice, and addressing the _Virgin Mary_ in their
usual strain, “_Ora pro nobis._” In this manner they proceeded to
the prison, where all was deposited for the use of the poor persons
confined therein. But a far more pompous procession of the like nature
(as a stander-by informed me) passed by a few days before. In this
there were near three hundred _Franciscan_ friars, many of which
(besides porters hired for the purpose) were loaded with a variety of
food; and those who bore no burden, carried either ladles or spoons in
their hands. Sights of this nature being quite a novelty to me, I was
fond of attending as many of them as I could. Two things concurred to
make them more frequent at this juncture,――the season of _Lent_,――and
an excessive drought, which threatened the total destruction of the
fruits of the earth. For the averting so great a judgment, and for the
imploring the much longed-for blessing of rain, daily processions had
been made from one convent or another, for a considerable time.――One of
these I saw: it was looked upon as a pretty grand one, being made up of
the _Carmelite_ friars, the parish priests, and a great number of what
they call the brothers of the order, who walked two by two in divers
habits, holding a long and very large lighted wax-taper in their right
hands. Amidst these was carried, upon eight or ten mens shoulders, a
tall image of the _Virgin Mary_, in a kind of man’s attire; for I think
she had a very fine white wig on her head, (a dress she often appears
in) and was much adorned with jewels and glittering stones. At some
distance from the Lady, under a large canopy of state, and supported
likewise by six or eight persons, came a priest, holding in his hand
some noted relic. After him, followed several thousands of people,
joining with the friars in singing, “_Eandem cantilenam, Ora pro
nobis_,” all the way. Still rain was denied, and still processions were
continued. At length the clouds began to gather, and the mercury in the
barometer fell very much. Then was brought out a wooden image, which
they say never failed. It was the figure of our blessed LORD, cloathed
with purple robes, and crowned with thorns. I think they call him the
LORD OF THE PASSION. Upon his shoulders he bore a large cross, under
the weight of which he was represented as stooping, till his body
bent almost double. He was brought from the _Le Grass_ convent in very
great pomp, and placed in a large cathedral church.――――Being on board
at that time, I lost this sight; but the subsequent evening I beheld
the SEIGNEUR fixed on an eminence in a large cathedral church, near
the altar, surrounded with wax tapers of a prodigious size.――He was
attended by many noblemen, and thousands of spectators of all ranks
and stations, who crouded from every quarter, and in their turns, were
admitted by the guards to come within the rails, and perform their
devotions. This they expressed by kneeling, and kissing the SEIGNEUR’s
heel, by putting their left and right eye to it, and then touching
it with their beads, which a gentleman in waiting received from
them, and then returned again. This scene was repeated for three days
successively; and during all this time, the church and space before
it was so thronged with carriages and people, that there was scarce
any passing. The music on this occasion was extremely soft, and the
church was illuminated in a very striking manner. The third day in the
forenoon it rained, and soon after the SEIGNEUR was conducted home in
as great splendour, and with much greater rejoicing, than when he was
brought forth. As my situation was very commodious, I saw the whole;
and afterwards went and heard part of the sermon, which was delivered
before him, in the church to which the SEIGNEUR belonged. The preacher
was full of action; and in some part of his discourse, (as one who
understood _Portuguese_ informed me) pointing to the image, he said,
“Now he is at rest.――He went out in justice, but is returned in mercy.”
And towards the conclusion, he called upon the people to join with him
in an extempore prayer. This they did with great fervency, which was
expressed not only by repeating it aloud, but by beating their breasts,
and clapping their cheeks, and weeping heartily.――――To compleat the
solemnity, immediately after the delivery of the blessing, all on a
sudden, from the place near which the image stood, there was heard
a most soft and soothing symphony of music, which being ended, the
assembly broke up, and I returned to my lodgings; not a little affected,
to see so many thousands led away from the simplicity of the gospel,
by such a mixture of human artifice and blind superstition, of which
indeed I could have formed no idea, had I not been an eye witness. This
concern was still increased, by what I heard from some of my fellow
passengers, who informed me, that about eleven one night, after I came
aboard, they not only heard a friar preaching most fervently before
the SEIGNEUR, but also saw several companies of penitents brought in,
lashing and whipping themselves severely. How little unlike this, to
those who cut themselves with knives and lancets, and cried out from
morning till night, “O Baal, hear us.”――――Methinks I hear you say, “And
had I been present, I should have wished for the spirit of an _Elijah_
to――” Hush, my friend,――I am content to guess at the rest till we meet.
In the mean while, let us comfort ourselves with this thought, that
there is a season approaching, when the LORD GOD of _Elijah_ will
himself come, and destroy this and every other species of antichrist,
by the breath of his mouth, and the brightness of his appearing, even
by the all-conquering manifestations of his eternal Spirit. Whether as
men, christians, and protestants, we have not more and more reason to
pray night and day, for the hastening on of that glorious and long
wished-for period, you will be better able to judge, when I send you
(as I purpose to do, if I have time) a further account of a _Lent_
procession or two, of which I was also a spectator.――――At present I
can only beg a continual remembrance at a throne of grace, as being,
my dear friend,
Yours most respectfully in our common LORD,
_G. W._