_Letter from a Russian Sailor to his Brother_
COWES, _July 23 (August 6), 1909_.
(St. Trafim’s Day.)
My dear brother Ivan,
I am alive and well, and I hope you are alive and well, and that
all the family are thriving, and I beg you to greet my father, my
stepmother, my brother Andrew, my sister, little Peter, and all my near
ones from me. Please also greet Dimitri Ivanovitch and Paul Borisovitch
and Anna Nikolaevna. We arrived yesterday in this country. It belongs
to the English, who possess so many countries. Their great Queen is
no longer alive, but there is now a King in her place who is a blood
relation of our Emperor.
We were sent on shore yesterday to buy provisions. Everything is very
cheap, except _vodka_, which costs three roubles a small bottle. But
the English drink a _vodka_ of their own which is also very dear, and
they drink a kind of beer which we do not care for much. The houses are
all built of brick and warmed with coal. Even the working men live in
stone houses and heat them with coal. There is no wood anywhere. The
houses and the streets are kept clean, and the people, even the gentry,
obey the police, and are humble when they are given orders. The English
are Christians, and like white men in all respects. They are not
heathens. Most of them are rich, and they have many lacqueys who obey
their masters like dumb slaves, and dare not look them in the face when
they speak to them.
The English food is nasty, and there is little to eat, although all
eat meat every day, except the very poor, who seldom receive alms from
the passers-by. There are here many beggars in the streets, but nobody
gives them food or money. We gave a cripple a quarter of a rouble and
he was surprised.
There are many luxurious ships in the harbour all painted white and
pretty to look at. At night they are lit up by electricity. The English
Fleet is here, too, and it is very big, and the ships are fine, and
we were heavy-hearted when we looked at it and thought of our brave
sailors who had been obliged to fight like lions for their dear
country. But there is no help for it, and if Providence wills we shall
one day have another fleet bigger than the first. The tide is strong
here, and dangerous for us who do not know where the rocks are, and
when we ask nobody can explain, for the English do not speak Russian
at all. I only know three things in English: “Plenty whisky,” which
means _vodka_; “five o’clock,” which means _shabash_ (all over); and
“alright,” which means “I thank you.”
The English sailors are like ours, but they have little to eat or
drink. The laws are strict here, and if a man who has taken drink walks
about in the streets he is put in prison. If that happened in Russia we
should mutiny. Moreover, it is forbidden to smoke almost everywhere.
This is strange, as the English smoke a great deal; but they are an
obedient people, and clean. They respect their laws.
On shore it is merry. There are many clowns and acrobats dancing and
singing, just as though it were a fair. But the English do not know
how to sing, and they do not dance at all. Although there is much
merrymaking I have not seen one drunken man, so much afraid are they
of being put in prison.
The English have a Duma, but an Englishman who speaks Russian told us
that it was just like ours, and that they did nothing but talk there.
He also told us that the English women had mutinied because so many of
them had been put in prison for beating the police, and that they were
being starved in the prisons until they should submit. This seems to
us cruel, but the English are often not kind to women and animals, and
they say the women interfere in what is not their business, just as
they do at home.
The English have no army, only mercenaries who are paid money. Some of
them are niggers. I asked the man who talked Russian why it was that
if men were paid so much to be soldiers every one was not a soldier.
He said that soldiers were sent away to foreign climates, and that men
did not respect soldiers in England. It is also like that in China. The
sailors are much respected and much loved, and they are all Englishmen,
and white men, and not mercenaries. They are merry people, too.
The English naval officers are clean shaven, which makes them look very
funny, but they are good officers and know their business. The police
are dressed in long great-coats and carry no weapons, because the
English people are docile and submissive; and they have few hooligans
here, although they say that in London there are many hooligans, but
these are hanged.
Yesterday we went to Portsmouth, a town, for we could not buy what we
wanted in this place, which is only a village, although all the houses
are built of stone. Portsmouth is a beautiful town, with many shops,
palaces, theatres, and churches, and full of beautiful women who are
all married to sailors. It is the custom of the place to obey the
sailors in everything, and not to rob them. The English sailors are
rich, much richer than some of our generals. They spend their money
generously and treat everybody. They would be robbed in Russia, but
here everybody lives in terror of the police, and I am told that if
a poor man is arrested there is no chance of his not being condemned
to prison. They are strict, so they say, in their prisons, and the
“unfortunates” are not allowed even to speak to each other or to smoke.
Fancy this happening in Russia! If they are very bad they are sent to
America! But this only happens to the very bad criminals.
The English are polite to strangers, but uncivil among themselves.
They never greet each other, and even the naval officers never shake
hands with each other. When I first heard this I did not believe it, as
I thought only Turks behaved like that, but it is true, and they do not
seem to mind. The gentry live quite apart from the common people, but
the common people do not mind, and, indeed, they laugh at them openly,
and call them, so I was told, fools to their faces, and abuse them and
their mothers openly and without fear of any unpleasantness. All this
is because they obey and respect the law, and it’s very well, but we
could not live in a country like this, because it would sadden us.
Everything is in order here except the railways. There the disorder is
terrible. You buy no ticket for your seat, and you cannot register your
luggage. But the guards are strict and never let even a poor man travel
without a ticket! That would be a bad business for you, Ivan, who never
take a ticket. They tell me it is impossible to make any arrangement
with the railway guards because the Government is powerful and they are
afraid of being put in prison.
I only travelled a short distance, but it was difficult to get a
seat in the train. And if I had had any luggage it would certainly
have been stolen, as they will not allow you to take much luggage in
the carriage with you. The trains are bad. Their first class is more
uncomfortable than our third class, because there is no room to lie
down. You can get tea everywhere; but the English do not know how to
make tea. It is thick and black and bitter, like soup which has been
kept too long. They do not know how to make bread, and there is no
black bread. Their white bread is made of starch and is not fit to eat.
But since every one eats meat this does not matter.
I cannot write any more. I am glad to have travelled in foreign
countries, and this is a clean country and the people are friendly and
all right; but I shall be glad to get back to my native land, for which
my heart is weary, and to a place where a man can do as he pleases.
We always heard much of English freedom, but a man in prison in our
country is freer than a man at large here. I send you a dozen postcards
which are very beautiful. They did not cost much money.
Please greet my father, my stepmother, my brother, my sister, little
Peter, and all who are near to me, as well as Dimitri Ivanovitch and
Paul Borisovitch. Please heaven, I shall return home soon. To-day the
English King and those who are near to him will pay a visit to his
Majesty the Emperor (God bless him!) and his near ones, and they will
drink tea together. To-night we shall eat and drink to their health,
and if heaven pleases I shall have drink taken. Heaven bless you and
all. I am, my dear brother Ivan, your affectionate brother,