CHAPTER V

TOWERS AND PORTALS

For a first visit to Chartres, choose some pleasant morning when the

lights are soft, for one wants to be welcome, and the cathedral has

moods, at times severe. At best, the Beauce is a country none too

gay.

The first glimpse that is caught, and the first that was meant to be

caught, is that of the two spires. With all the education that

Normandy and the Ile de France can give, one is still ignorant. The

spire is the simplest part of the Romanesque or Gothic architecture,

and needs least study in order to be felt. It is a bit of sentiment

almost pure of practical purpose. It tells the whole of its story at

a glance, and its story is the best that architecture had to tell,

for it typified the aspirations of man at the moment when man's

aspirations were highest. Yet nine persons out of ten--perhaps

ninety-nine in a hundred--who come within sight of the two spires of

Chartres will think it a jest if they are told that the smaller of

the two, the simpler, the one that impresses them least, is the one

which they are expected to recognize as the most perfect piece of

architecture in the world. Perhaps the French critics might deny

that they make any such absolute claim; in that case you can ask

them what their exact claim is; it will always be high enough to

astonish the tourist.

Astonished or not, we have got to take this southern spire of the

Chartres Cathedral as the object of serious study, and before taking

it as art, must take it as history. The foundations of this tower--

always to be known as the "old tower"--are supposed to have been

laid in 1091, before the first crusade. The fleche was probably half

a century later (1145-70). The foundations of the new tower,

opposite, were laid not before 1110, when also the portal which

stands between them, was begun with the three lancet windows above

it, but not the rose. For convenience, this old facade--including

the portal and the two towers, but not the fleches, and the three

lancet windows, but not the rose--may be dated as complete about

1150.

Originally the whole portal--the three doors and the three lancets--

stood nearly forty feet back, on the line of the interior

foundation, or rear wall of the towers. This arrangement threw the

towers forward, free on three sides, as at Poitiers, and gave room

for a parvis, before the portal,--a porch, roofed over, to protect

the pilgrims who always stopped there to pray before entering the

church. When the church was rebuilt after the great fire of 1194,

and the architect was required to enlarge the interior, the old

portal and lancets were moved bodily forward, to be flush with the

front walls of the two towers, as you see the facade to-day; and the

facade itself was heightened, to give room for the rose, and to

cover the loftier pignon and vaulting behind. Finally, the wooden

roof, above the stone vault, was masked by the Arcade of Kings and

its railing, completed in the taste of Philip the Hardy, who reigned

from 1270 to 1285.

These changes have, of course, altered the values of all the parts.

The portal is injured by being thrown into a glare of light, when it

was intended to stand in shadow, as you will see in the north and

south porches over the transept portals. The towers are hurt by

losing relief and shadow; but the old fleche is obliged to suffer

the cruellest wrong of all by having its right shoulder hunched up

by half of a huge rose and the whole of a row of kings, when it was

built to stand free, and to soar above the whole facade from the top

of its second storey. One can easily figure it so and replace the

lost parts of the old facade, more or less at haphazard, from the

front of Noyon.

What an outrage it was you can see by a single glance at the new

fleche opposite. The architect of 1500 has flatly refused to submit

to such conditions, and has insisted, with very proper self-respect,

on starting from the balustrade of the Arcade of Kings as his level.

Not even content with that, he has carried up his square tower

another lofty storey before he would consent to touch the heart of

his problem, the conversion of the square tower into the octagon

fleche. In doing this, he has sacrificed once more the old fleche;

but his own tower stands free as it should.

At Vendome, when you go there, you will be in a way to appreciate

still better what happened to the Chartres fleche; for the clocher

at Vendome, which is of the same date,--Viollet-le-Duc says earlier,

and Enlart, "after 1130,"--stood and still stands free, like an

Italian campanile, which gives it a vast advantage. The tower of

Saint-Leu-d'Esserent, also after 1130, stands free, above the second

storey. Indeed, you will hardly find, in the long list of famous

French spires, another which has been treated with so much indignity

as this, the greatest and most famous of all; and perhaps the most

annoying part of it is that you must be grateful to the architect of

1195 for doing no worse. He has, on the contrary, done his best to

show respect for the work of his predecessor, and has done so well

that, handicapped as it is, the old tower still defies rivalry.

Nearly three hundred and fifty feet high, or, to be exact, 106.5

metres from the church floor, it is built up with an amount of

intelligence and refinement that leaves to unprofessional visitors

no chance to think a criticism--much less to express one. Perhaps--

when we have seen more--and feel less--who knows?--but certainly not

now!

"The greatest and surely the most beautiful monument of this kind

that we possess in France," says Viollet-le-Duc; but although an

ignorant spectator must accept the architect's decision on a point

of relative merit, no one is compelled to accept his reasons, as

final. "There is no need to dwell," he continues, "upon the beauty

and the grandeur of composition in which the artist has given proof

of rare sobriety, where all the effects are obtained, not by

ornaments, but by the just and skilful proportion of the different

parts. The transition, so hard to adjust, between the square base

and the octagon of the fleche, is managed and carried out with an

address which has not been surpassed in similar monuments." One

stumbles a little at the word "adresse." One never caught one's self

using the word in Norman churches. Your photographs of Bayeux or

Boscherville or Secqueville will show you at a glance whether the

term "adresse" applies to them. Even Vendome would rather be praised

for "droiture" than for "adresse."--Whether the word "adresse" means

cleverness, dexterity, adroitness, or simple technical skill, the

thing itself is something which the French have always admired more

than the Normans ever did. Viollet-le-Duc himself seems to be a

little uncertain whether to lay most stress on the one or the other

quality: "If one tries to appreciate the conception of this tower,"

quotes the Abbe Bulteau (11,84), "one will see that it is as frank

as the execution is simple and skilful. Starting from the bottom,

one reaches the summit of the fleche without marked break; without

anything to interrupt the general form of the building. This

clocher, whose base is broad (pleine), massive, and free from

ornament, transforms itself, as it springs, into a sharp spire with

eight faces, without its being possible to say where the massive

construction ends and the light construction begins."

Granting, as one must, that this concealment of the transition is a

beauty, one would still like to be quite sure that the Chartres

scheme is the best. The Norman clochers being thrown out, and that

at Vendome being admittedly simple, the Clocher de Saint-Jean on the

Church of Saint-Germain at Auxerre seems to be thought among the

next in importance, although it is only about one hundred and sixty

feet in height (forty-nine metres), and therefore hardly in the same

class with Chartres. Any photograph shows that the Auxerre spire is

also simple; and that at Etampes you have seen already to be of the

Vendome rather than of the Chartres type. The clocher at Senlis is

more "habile"; it shows an effort to be clever, and offers a

standard of comparison; but the mediaeval architects seem to have

thought that none of them bore rivalry with Laon for technical

skill. One of these professional experts, named Villard de

Honnecourt, who lived between 1200 and 1250, left a notebook which

you can see in the vitrines of the Bibliotheque Nationale in the Rue

Richelieu, and which is the source of most that is known about the

practical ideas of mediaeval architects. He came to Chartres, and,

standing here before the doors, where we are standing, he made a

rough drawing, not of the tower, but of the rose, which was then

probably new, since it must have been planned between 1195 and 1200.

Apparently the tower did not impress him strongly, for he made no

note of it; but on the other hand, when he went to Laon, he became

vehement in praise of the cathedral tower there, which must have

been then quite new: "I have been in many countries, as you can find

in this book. In no place have I ever such a tower seen as that of

Laon.--J'ai este en mult de tieres, si cum vus pores trover en cest

livre. En aucun liu onques tel tor ne vi com est cele de Loon." The

reason for this admiration is the same that Viollet-le-Duc gives for

admiring the tower of Chartres--the "adresse" with which the square

is changed into the octagon. Not only is the tower itself changed

into the fleche without visible junction, under cover of four corner

tourelles, of open work, on slender columns, which start as squares;

but the tourelles also convert themselves into octagons in the very

act of rising, and end in octagon fleches that carry up--or once

carried up--the lines of profile to the central fleche that soared

above them. Clearly this device far surpassed in cleverness the

scheme of Chartres, which was comparatively heavy and structural,

the weights being adjusted for their intended work, while the

transformation at Laon takes place in the air, and challenges

discovery in defiance of one's keenest eyesight. "Regard... how the

tourelles pass from one disposition to another, in rising! Meditate

on it!"

The fleche of Laon is gone, but the tower and tourelles are still

there to show what the architects of the thirteenth century thought

their most brilliant achievement. One cannot compare Chartres

directly with any of its contemporary rivals, but one can at least

compare the old spire with the new one which stands opposite and

rises above it. Perhaps you will like the new best. Built at a time

which is commonly agreed to have had the highest standard of taste,

it does not encourage tourist or artist to insist on setting up

standards of his own against it. Begun in 1507, it was finished in

1517. The dome of Saint Peter's at Rome, over which Bramante and

Raphael and Michael Angelo toiled, was building at the same time;

Leonardo da Vinci was working at Amboise; Jean Bullant, Pierre

Lescot, and their patron, Francis I, were beginning their

architectural careers. Four hundred years, or thereabouts, separated

the old spire from the new one; and four hundred more separate the

new one from us. If Viollet-le-Duc, who himself built Gothic spires,

had cared to compare his fleches at Clermont-Ferrand with the new

fleche at Chartres, he might perhaps have given us a rule where

"adresse" ceases to have charm, and where detail becomes tiresome;

but in the want of a schoolmaster to lay down a law of taste, you

can admire the new fleche as much as you please. Of course, one sees

that the lines of the new tower are not clean, like those of the

old; the devices that cover the transition from the square to the

octagon are rather too obvious; the proportion of the fleche to the

tower quite alters the values of the parts; a rigid classical taste

might even go so far as to hint that the new tower, in comparison

with the old, showed signs of a certain tendency toward a dim and

distant vulgarity. There can be no harm in admitting that the new

tower is a little wanting in repose for a tower whose business is to

counterpoise the very classic lines of the old one; but no law

compels you to insist on absolute repose in any form of art; if such

a law existed, it would have to deal with Michael Angelo before it

dealt with us. The new tower has many faults, but it has great

beauties, as you can prove by comparing it with other late Gothic

spires, including those of Viollet-le-Duc. Its chief fault is to be

where it is. As a companion to the crusades and to Saint Bernard, it

lacks austerity. As a companion to the Virgin of Chartres, it

recalls Diane de Poitiers.

In fact, the new tower, which in years is four centuries younger

than its neighbour, is in feeling fully four hundred years older. It

is self-conscious if not vain; its coiffure is elaborately arranged

to cover the effects of age, and its neck and shoulders are covered

with lace and jewels to hide a certain sharpness of skeleton. Yet it

may be beautiful, still; the poets derided the wrinkles of Diane de

Poitiers at the very moment when King Henry II idealized her with

the homage of a Don Quixote; an atmosphere of physical beauty and

decay hangs about the whole Renaissance.

One cannot push these resemblances too far, even for the twelfth

century and the old tower. Exactly what date the old tower

represents, as a social symbol, is a question that might be as much

disputed as the beauty of Diane de Poitiers, and yet half the

interest of architecture consists in the sincerity of its reflection

of the society that builds. In mere time, by actual date, the old

tower represents the second crusade, and when, in 1150, Saint

Bernard was elected chief of that crusade in this very cathedral,--

or rather, in the cathedral of 1120, which was burned,--the workmen

were probably setting in mortar the stones of the fleche as we now

see them; yet the fleche does not represent Saint Bernard in

feeling, for Saint Bernard held the whole array of church-towers in

horror as signs merely of display, wealth and pride. The fleche

rather represents Abbot Suger of Saint-Denis, Abbot Peter the

Venerable of Cluny, Abbot Abelard of Saint-Gildas-de-Rhuys, and

Queen Eleanor of Guienne, who had married Louis-le-Jeune in 1137;

who had taken the cross from Saint Bernard in 1147; who returned

from the Holy Land in 1149; and who compelled Saint Bernard to

approve her divorce in 1152. Eleanor and Saint Bernard were

centuries apart, yet they lived at the same time and in the same

church. Speaking exactly, the old tower represents neither of them;

the new tower itself is hardly more florid than Eleanor was; perhaps

less so, if one can judge from the fashions of the court-dress of

her time. The old tower is almost Norman, while Eleanor was wholly

Gascon, and Gascony was always florid without being always correct.

The new tower, if it had been built in 1150, like the old one, would

have expressed Eleanor perfectly, even in height and apparent effort

to dwarf its mate, except that Eleanor dwarfed her husband without

an effort, and both in art and in history the result lacked harmony.

Be the contrast what it may, it does not affect the fact that no

other church in France has two spires that need be discussed in

comparison with these. Indeed, no other cathedral of the same class

has any spires at all, and this superiority of Chartres gave most of

its point to a saying that "with the spires of Chartres, the choir

of Beauvais, the nave of Amiens, and the facade of Rheims," one

could make a perfect church--for us tourists.

The towers have taken much time, though they are the least religious

and least complicated part of church architecture, and in no way

essential to the church; indeed, Saint Bernard thought them an

excrescence due to pride and worldliness, and this is merely Saint

Bernard's way of saying that they were an ornament created to

gratify the artistic sense of beauty. Beautiful as they are, one's

eyes must drop at last down to the church itself. If the spire

symbolizes aspiration, the door symbolizes the way; and the portal

of Chartres is the type of French doors; it stands first in the

history of Gothic art; and, in the opinion of most Gothic artists,

first in the interest of all art, though this is no concern of ours.

Here is the Way to Eternal Life as it was seen by the Church and the

Art of the first crusade!

The fortune of this monument has been the best attested Miracle de

la Vierge in the long list of the Virgin's miracles, for it comes

down, practically unharmed, through what may with literal accuracy

be called the jaws of destruction and the flames of hell. Built some

time in the first half of the twelfth century, it passed, apparently

unscathed, through the great fire of 1194 which burnt out the church

behind, and even the timber interior of the towers in front of it.

Owing to the enormous mass of timber employed in the structure of

the great churches, these recurrent fires were as destructive as

fire can be made, yet not only the portals with their statuary and

carving, but also the lancet windows with their glass, escaped the

flames; and, what is almost equally strange, escaped also the hand

of the builder afterwards, who, if he had resembled other

architects, would have made a new front of his own, but who, with

piety unexampled, tenderly took the old stones down, one by one, and

replaced them forty feet in advance of their old position. The

English wars and the wars of religion brought new dangers, sieges,

and miseries; the revolution of 1792 brought actual rapine and

waste; boys have flung stones at the saints; architects have wreaked

their taste within and without; fire after fire has calcined the

church vaults; the worst wrecker of all, the restorer of the

nineteenth century, has prowled about it; yet the porch still

stands, mutilated but not restored, burned but not consumed, as

eloquent a witness to the power and perfections of Our Lady as it

was seven hundred years ago, and perhaps more impressive.

You will see portals and porches more or less of the same period

elsewhere in many different places,--at Paris, Le Mans, Sens, Autun,

Vezelay, Clermont-Ferrand, Moissac, Arles,--a score of them; for the

same piety has protected them more than once; but you will see no

other so complete or so instructive, and you may search far before

you will find another equally good in workmanship. Study of the

Chartres portal covers all the rest. The feeling and motive of all

are nearly the same, or vary only to suit the character of the

patron saint; and the point of all is that this feeling is the

architectural child of the first crusade. At Chartres one can read

the first crusade in the portal, as at Mont-Saint-Michel in the

Aquilon and the promenoir.

The Abbe Bulteau gives reason for assuming the year 1117 as the

approximate date of the sculpture about the west portal, and you saw

at Mont-Saint-Michel, in the promenoir of Abbot Roger II, an

accurately dated work of the same decade; but whatever the date of

the plan, the actual work and its spirit belong to 1145 or

thereabouts, Some fifty years had passed since the crusaders

streamed through Constantinople to Antioch and Jerusalem, and they

were daily going and returning. You can see the ideas they brought

back with the relics and missals and enamels they bought in

Byzantium. Over the central door is the Christ, which might be

sculptured after a Byzantine enamel, with its long nimbus or aureole

or glory enclosing the whole figure. Over the left door is an

Ascension, bearing the same stamp; and over the right door, the

seated Virgin, with her crown and her two attendant archangels, is

an empress. Here is the Church, the Way, and the Life of the twelfth

century that we have undertaken to feel, if not to understand!

First comes the central doorway, and above it is the glory of

Christ, as the church at Chartres understood Christ in the year

1150; for the glories of Christ were many, and the Chartres Christ

is one. Whatever Christ may have been in other churches, here, on

this portal, he offers himself to his flock as the herald of

salvation alone. Among all the imagery of these three doorways,

there is no hint of fear, punishment, or damnation, and this is the

note of the whole time. Before 1200, the Church seems not to have

felt the need of appealing habitually to terror; the promise of hope

and happiness was enough; even the portal at Autun, which displays a

Last Judgment, belonged to Saint Lazarus the proof and symbol of

resurrection. A hundred years later, every church portal showed

Christ not as Saviour but as Judge, and He presided over a Last

Judgment at Bourges and Amiens, and here on the south portal, where

the despair of the damned is the evident joy of the artist, if it is

not even sometimes a little his jest, which is worse. At Chartres

Christ is identified with His Mother, the spirit of love and grace,

and His Church is the Church Triumphant.

Not only is fear absent; there is not even a suggestion of pain;

there is not a martyr with the symbol of his martyrdom; and what is

still more striking, in the sculptured life of Christ, from the

Nativity to the Ascension, which adorns the capitals of the columns,

the single scene that has been omitted is the Crucifixion. There, as

everywhere in this portal, the artists seem actually to have gone

out of their way in order to avoid a suggestion of suffering. They

have pictured Christ and His Mother in all the other events of their

lives; they have represented evangelists; apostles; the twenty-four

old men of the Apocalypse; saints, prophets, kings, queens, and

princes, by the score; the signs of the zodiac, and even the seven

liberal arts: grammar, rhetoric, dialectics, arithmetic, geometry,

astronomy, and music; everything is there except misery.

Perhaps Our Lady of Chartres was known to be peculiarly gracious and

gentle, and this may partially account also for the extreme

popularity of her shrine; but whatever the reason, her church was

clearly intended to show only this side of her nature, and to

impress it on her Son. You can see it in the grave and gracious face

and attitude of the Christ, raising His hand to bless you as you

enter His kingdom; in the array of long figures which line the

entrance to greet you as you pass; in the expression of majesty and

mercy of the Virgin herself on her throne above the southern

doorway; never once are you regarded as a possible rebel, or

traitor, or a stranger to be treated with suspicion, or as a child

to be impressed by fear. Equally distinct, perhaps even more

emphatic, is the sculptor's earnestness to make you feel, without

direct insistence, that you are entering the Court of the Queen of

Heaven who is one with her Son and His Church. The central door

always bore the name of the "Royal Door," because it belonged to the

celestial majesty of Christ, and naturally bears the stamp of

royalty; but the south door belongs to the Virgin and to us. Stop a

moment to see how she receives us, remembering, or trying to

remember, that to the priests and artists who designed the portal,

and to the generations that went on the first and second crusades,

the Virgin in her shrine was at least as living, as real, as

personal an empress as the Basilissa at Constantinople!

On the lintel immediately above the doorway is a succession of small

groups: first, the Annunciation; Mary stands to receive the

Archangel Gabriel, who comes to announce to her that she is chosen

to be the Mother of God. The second is the Visitation, and in this

scene also Mary stands, but she already wears a crown; at least, the

Abbe Bulteau says so, although time has dealt harshly with it. Then,

in the centre, follows the Nativity; Mary lies on a low bed,

beneath, or before, a sort of table or cradle on which lies the

Infant, while Saint Joseph stands at the bed's head. Then the angel

appears, directing three shepherds to the spot, filling the rest of

the space.

In correct theology, the Virgin ought not to be represented in bed,

for she could not suffer like ordinary women, but her palace at

Chartres is not much troubled by theology, and to her, as empress-

mother, the pain of child-birth was a pleasure which she wanted her

people to share. The Virgin of Chartres was the greatest of all

queens, but the most womanly of women, as we shall see; and her

double character is sustained throughout her palace. She was also

intellectually gifted in the highest degree. In the upper zone you

see her again, at the Presentation in the Temple, supporting the

Child Jesus on the altar, while Simeon aids. Other figures bring

offerings. The voussures of the arch above contain six archangels,

with curious wings, offering worship to the Infant and His Imperial

Mother. Below are the signs of the zodiac; the Fishes and the Twins.

The rest of the arch is filled by the seven liberal arts, with

Pythagoras, Aristotle, Cicero, Euclid, Nicomachus, Ptolemy, and

Priscian as their representatives, testifying to the Queen's

intellectual superiority.

In the centre sits Mary, with her crown on her head and her Son in

her lap, enthroned, receiving the homage of heaven and earth; of all

time, ancient and modern; of all thought, Christian and Pagan; of

all men, and all women; including, if you please, your homage and

mine, which she receives without question, as her due; which she

cannot be said to claim, because she is above making claims; she is

empress. Her left hand bore a sceptre; her right supported the

Child, Who looks directly forward, repeating the Mother's attitude,

and raises His right hand to bless, while His left rests on the orb

of empire. She and her Child are one.

All this was noble beyond the nobility of man, but its earthly form

was inspired by the Empire rather than by the petty royalty of

Louis-le-Gros or his pious queen Alix of Savoy. One mark of the

period is the long, oval nimbus; another is the imperial character

of the Virgin; a third is her unity with the Christ which is the

Church. To us, the mark that will distinguish the Virgin of

Chartres, or, if you prefer, the Virgin of the Crusades, is her

crown and robes and throne. According to M. Rohault de Fleury's

"Iconographie de la Sainte Vierge" (11, 62), the Virgin's headdress

and ornaments had been for long ages borrowed from the costume of

the Empresses of the East in honour of the Queen of Heaven. No doubt

the Virgin of Chartres was the Virgin recognized by the Empress

Helena, mother of Constantine, and was at least as old as Helena's

pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 326. She was not a Western, feudal queen,

nor was her Son a feudal king; she typified an authority which the

people wanted, and the fiefs feared; the Pax Romana; the omnipotence

of God in government. In all Europe, at that time, there was no

power able to enforce justice or to maintain order, and no symbol of

such a power except Christ and His Mother and the Imperial Crown.

This idea is very different from that which was the object of our

pilgrimage to Mont-Saint-Michel; but since all Chartres is to be one

long comment upon it, you can lay the history of the matter on the

shelf for study at your leisure, if you ever care to study into the

weary details of human illusions and disappointments, while here we

pray to the Virgin, and absorb ourselves in the art, which is your

pleasure and which shall not teach either a moral or a useful

lesson. The Empress Mary is receiving you at her portal, and whether

you are an impertinent child, or a foolish old peasant-woman, or an

insolent prince, or a more insolent tourist, she receives you with

the same dignity; in fact, she probably sees very little difference

between you. An empress of Russia to-day would probably feel little

difference in the relative rank of her subjects, and the Virgin was

empress over emperors, patriarchs, and popes. Any one, however

ignorant, can feel the sustained dignity of the sculptor's work,

which is asserted with all the emphasis he could put into it. Not

one of these long figures which line the three doorways but is an

officer or official in attendance on the Empress or her Son, and

bears the stamp of the Imperial Court. They are mutilated, but, if

they have been treated with indignity, so were often their temporal

rivals, torn to pieces, trampled on, to say nothing of being merely

beheaded or poisoned, in the Sacred Palace and the Hippodrome,

without losing that peculiar Oriental dignity of style which seems

to drape the least dignified attitudes. The grand air of the twelfth

century is something like that of a Greek temple; you can, if you

like, hammer every separate stone to pieces, but you cannot hammer

out the Greek style. There were originally twenty-four of these

statues, and nineteen remain. Beginning at the north end, and

passing over the first figure, which carries a head that does not

belong to it, notice the second, a king with a long sceptre of

empire, a book of law, and robes of Byzantine official splendour.

Beneath his feet is a curious woman's head with heavy braids of

hair, and a crown. The third figure is a queen, charming as a woman,

but particularly well-dressed, and with details of ornament and

person elaborately wrought; worth drawing, if one could only draw;

worth photographing with utmost care to include the strange support

on which she stands: a monkey, two dragons, a dog, a basilisk with a

dog's head. Two prophets follow--not so interesting;--prophets

rarely interest. Then comes the central bay: two queens who claim

particular attention, then a prophet, then a saint next the doorway;

then on the southern jamb-shafts, another saint, a king, a queen,

and another king. Last comes the southern bay, the Virgin's own, and

there stands first a figure said to be a youthful king; then a

strongly sculptured saint; next the door a figure called also a

king, but so charmingly delicate in expression that the robes alone

betray his sex; and who this exquisite young aureoled king may have

been who stands so close to the Virgin, at her right hand, no one

can now reveal. Opposite him is a saint who may be, or should be,

the Prince of the Apostles; then a bearded king with a broken

sceptre, standing on two dragons; and, at last, a badly mutilated

queen.

These statues are the Eginetan marbles of French art; from them all

modern French sculpture dates, or ought to date. They are singularly

interesting; as naif as the smile on the faces of the Greek

warriors, but no more grotesque than they. You will see Gothic

grotesques in plenty, and you cannot mistake the two intentions; the

twelfth century would sooner have tempted the tortures of every

feudal dungeon in Europe than have put before the Virgin's eyes any

figure that could be conceived as displeasing to her. These figures

are full of feeling, and saturated with worship; but what is most to

our purpose is the feminine side which they proclaim and insist

upon. Not only the number of the female figures, and their beauty,

but also the singularly youthful beauty of several of the males; the

superb robes they wear; the expression of their faces and their

figures; the details of hair, stuffs, ornaments, jewels; the

refinement and feminine taste of the whole, are enough to startle

our interest if we recognize what meaning they had to the twelfth

century.

These figures looked stiff and long and thin and ridiculous to

enlightened citizens of the eighteenth century, but they were made

to fit the architecture; if you want to know what an enthusiast

thinks of them, listen to M. Huysmans's "Cathedral." "Beyond a

doubt, the most beautiful sculpture in the world is in this place."

He can hardly find words to express his admiration for the queens,

and particularly for the one on the right of the central doorway.

"Never in any period has a more expressive figure been thus wrought

by the genius of man; it is the chef-d'oeuvre of infantile grace and

holy candour .... She is the elder sister of the Prodigal Son, the

one of whom Saint Luke does not speak, but who, if she existed,

would have pleaded the cause of the absent, and insisted, with the

father, that he should kill the fatted calf at his son's return."

The idea is charming if you are the returning son, as many twelfth-

century pilgrims must have thought themselves; but, in truth, the

figure is that of a queen; an Eleanor of Guienne; her position there

is due to her majesty, which bears witness to the celestial majesty

of the Court in which she is only a lady-in-waiting: and she is

hardly more humanly fascinating than her brother, the youthful king

at the Virgin's right hand, who has nothing of the Prodigal Son, but

who certainly has much of Lohengrin, or even--almost--Tristan.

The Abbe Bulteau has done his best to name these statues, but the

names would be only in your way. That the sculptor meant them for a

Queen of Sheba or a King of Israel has little to do with their

meaning in the twelfth century, when the people were much more

likely to have named them after the queens and kings they knew. The

whole charm lies for us in the twelfth-century humanity of Mary and

her Court; not in the scriptural names under which it was made

orthodox. Here, in this western portal, it stands as the crusaders

of 1100-50 imagined it; but by walking round the church to the porch

over the entrance to the north transept, you shall see it again as

Blanche of Castile and Saint Louis imagined it, a hundred years

later, so that you will know better whether the earthly attributes

are exaggerated or untrue.

Porches, like steeples, were rather a peculiarity of French

churches, and were studied, varied, one might even say petted, by

French architects to an extent hardly attempted elsewhere; but among

all the French porches, those of Chartres are the most famous. There

are two: one on the north side, devoted to the Virgin; the other, on

the south, devoted to the Son, "The mass of intelligence, knowledge,

acquaintance with effects, practical experience, expended on these

two porches of Chartres," says Viollet-le-Duc, "would be enough to

establish the glory of a whole generation of artists." We begin with

the north porch because it belonged to the Virgin; and it belonged

to the Virgin because the north was cold, bleak, sunless, windy, and

needed warmth, peace, affection, and power to protect against the

assaults of Satan and his swarming devils. There the all-suffering

but the all-powerful Mother received other mothers who suffered like

her, but who, as a rule, were not powerful. Traditionally in the

primitive church, the northern porch belonged to the women. When

they needed help, they came here, because it was the only place in

this world or in any other where they had much hope of finding even

a reception. See how Mary received them!

The porch extends the whole width of the transept, about one hundred

and twenty feet (37.65 metres), divided into three bays some twenty

feet deep, and covered with a stone vaulted roof supported on piers

outside. Begun toward 1215 under Philip Augustus, the architectural

part was finished toward 1225 under Louis VIII; and after his death

in 1226, the decorative work and statuary were carried on under the

regency of his widow, Blanche of Castile, and through the reign of

her son, Saint Louis (1235-70), until about 1275, when the work was

completed by Philip the Hardy. A gift of the royal family of France,

all the members of the family seem to have had a share in building

it, and several of their statues have been supposed to adorn it. The

walls are lined--the porch, in a religious sense, is inhabited--by

more than seven hundred figures, great and small, all, in one way or

another, devoted to the glory of the Queen of Heaven. You will see

that a hundred years have converted the Byzantine Empress into a

French Queen, as the same years had converted Alix of Savoy into

Blanche of Castile; but the note of majesty is the same, and the

assertion of power is, if possible, more emphatic.

The highest note is struck at once, in the central bay, over the

door, where you see the Coronation of Mary as Queen of Heaven, a

favourite subject in art from very early times, and the dominant

idea of Mary's church. You see Mary on the left, seated on her

throne; on the right, seated on a precisely similar throne, is

Christ, Who holds up His right hand apparently to bless, since Mary

already bears the crown. Mary bends forward, with her hands raised

toward her Son, as though in gratitude or adoration or prayer, but

certainly not in an attitude of feudal homage. On either side, an

archangel swings a censer.

On the lintel below, on the left, is represented the death of Mary;

on the right, Christ carries, in the folds of His mantle, the soul

of Mary in the form of a little child, and at the same time blesses

the body which is carried away by angels--The Resurrection of Mary.

Below the lintel, supporting it, and dividing the doorway in halves,

is the trumeau,--the central pier,--a new part of the portal which

was unknown to the western door. Usually in the Virgin's churches,

as at Rheims, or Amiens or Paris, the Virgin herself, with her Son

in her arms, stands against this pier, trampling on the dragon with

the woman's head. Here, not the Virgin with the Christ, but her

mother Saint Anne stands, with the infant Virgin in her arms; while

beneath is, or was, Saint Joachim, her husband, among his flocks,

receiving from the Archangel Gabriel the annunciation.

So at the entrance the Virgin declares herself divinely Queen in her

own right; divinely born; divinely resurrected from death, on the

third day; seated by divine right on the throne of Heaven, at the

right hand of God, the Son, with Whom she is one.

Unless we feel this assertion of divine right in the Queen of

Heaven, apart from the Trinity, yet one with It, Chartres is

unintelligible. The extreme emphasis laid upon it at the church door

shows what the church means within. Of course, the assertion was not

strictly orthodox; perhaps, since we are not members of the Church,

we might be unnoticed and unrebuked if we start by suspecting that

the worship of the Virgin never was strictly orthodox; but Chartres

was hers before it ever belonged to the Church, and, like Lourdes in

our own time, was a shrine peculiarly favoured by her presence. The

mere fact that it was a bishopric had little share in its sanctity.

The bishop was much more afraid of Mary than he was of any Church

Council ever held.

Critics are doing their best to destroy the peculiar personal

interest of this porch, but tourists and pilgrims may be excused for

insisting on their traditional rights here, since the porch is

singular, even in the thirteenth century, for belonging entirely to

them and the royal family of France, subject only to the Virgin.

True artists, turned critics, think also less of rules than of

values, and no ignorant public can be trusted to join the critics in

losing temper judiciously over the date or correctness of a portrait

until they knew something of its motives and merits. The public has

always felt certain that some of the statues which stand against the

outer piers of this porch are portraits, and they see no force in

the objection that such decoration was not customary in the Church.

Many things at Chartres were not customary in the Church, although

the Church now prefers not to dwell on them. Therefore the student

returns to Viollet-le-Duc with his usual delight at finding at least

one critic whose sense of values is stronger than his sense of rule:

"Each statue," he says in his "Dictionary" (111, 166), "possesses

its personal character which remains graven on the memory like the

recollection of a living being whom one has known .... A large part

of the statues in the porches of Notre Dame de Chartres, as well as

of the portals of the Cathedrals of Amiens and Rheims, possess these

individual qualities, and this it is which explains why these

statues produce on the crowd so vivid an impression that it names

them, knows them, and attaches to each of them an idea, often a

legend."

Probably the crowd did so from the first moment they saw the

statues, and with good reason. At all events, they have attached to

two of the most individual figures on the north porch, two names,

perhaps the best known in France in the year 1226, but which since

the year 1300 can have conveyed only the most shadowy meaning to any

but pure antiquarians. The group is so beautiful as to be given a

plate to itself in the "Monographie" (number 26), as representing

Philip Hurepel and his wife Mahaut de Boulogne. So little could any

crowd, or even any antiquarian, at any time within six hundred years

have been likely to pitch on just these persons to associate with

Blanche of Castile in any kind of family unity, that the mere

suggestion seems wild; yet Blanche outlived Pierre by nearly twenty

years, and her power over this transept and porch ended only with

her death as regent in 1252.

Philippe, nicknamed Hurepel,--Boarskin,--was a "fils deFrance,"

whose father, Philip Augustus, had serious, not to say fatal,

difficulties with the Church about the legality of his marriage,

and was forced to abandon his wife, who died in 1201, after giving

birth to Hurepel in 1200. The child was recognized as legitimate,

and stood next to the throne, after his half-brother Louis, who was

thirteen years older. Almost at his birth he was affianced to

Mahaut, Countess of Boulogne, and the marriage was celebrated in

1216. Rich and strongly connected, Hurepel naturally thought

himself--and was--head of the royal family next to the King, and

when his half-brother, Louis VIII, died in 1226, leaving only a son,

afterwards Saint Louis, a ten-year-old boy, to succeed, Hurepel very

properly claimed the guardianship of his infant nephew, and deeply

resented being excluded by Queen Blanche from what he regarded--

perhaps with justice--as his right. Nearly all the great lords and

the members of the royal family sided with him, and entered into a

civil war against Blanche, at the moment when these two porches of

Chartres were building, between 1228 and 1230. The two greatest

leaders of the conspiracy were Hurepel, whom we are expected to

recognize on the pier of this porch, and Pierre Mauclerc, of

Brittany and Dreux, whom we have no choice but to admit on the

trumeau of the other. In those days every great feudal lord was more

or less related by blood to the Crown, and although Blanche of

Castile was also a cousin as well as queen-mother, they hated her as

a Spanish intruder with such hatred as men felt in an age when

passions were real.

That these two men should be found here, associated with Blanche in

the same work, at the same time, under the same roof, is a fantastic

idea, and students can feel in this political difficulty a much

stronger objection to admitting Hurepel to Queen Blanche's porch

than any supposed rule of Church custom; yet the first privilege of

tourist ignorance is the right to see, or try to see, their

thirteenth century with thirteenth-century eyes. Passing by the

statues of Philip and Mahaut, and stepping inside the church door,

almost the first figure that the visitor sees on lifting his eyes to

the upper windows of the transept is another figure of Philippe

Hurepel, in glass, on his knees, with clasped hands, before an

altar; and to prevent possibility of mistake his blazoned coat bears

the words: "Phi: Conte de Bolone." Apparently he is the donor, for,

in the rose above, he sits in arms on a white horse with a shield

bearing the blazon of France. Obliged to make his peace with the

Queen in 1230, Hurepel died in 1233 or 1234, while Blanche was still

regent, and instantly took his place as of right side by side with

Blanche's castles of Castile among the great benefactors of the

church.

Beneath the next rose is Mahaut herself, as donor, bearing her

husband's arms of France, suggesting that the windows must have been

given together, probably before Philip's death in 1233, since Mahaut

was married again in 1238, this time to Alfonso of Portugal, who

repudiated her in 1249, and left her to die in her own town of

Boulogne in 1258. Lastly, in the third window of the series, is her

daughter Jeanne,--"Iehenne,"--who was probably born before 1220, and

who was married in 1236 to Gaucher de Chatillon, one of the greatest

warriors of his time. Jeanne also--according to the Abbe Bulteau

(111, 225)--bears the arms of her father and mother; which seems to

suggest that she gave this window before her marriage. These three

windows, therefore, have the air of dating at least as early as 1233

when Philip Hurepel died, while next them follow two more roses, and

the great rose of France, presumably of the same date, all scattered

over with the castles of Queen Blanche. The motive of the porch

outside is repeated in the glass, as it should be, and as the Saint

Anne of the Rose of France, within, repeats the Saint Anne on the

trumeau of the portal. The personal stamp of the royal family is

intense, but the stamp of the Virgin's personality is intenser

still. In the presence of Mary, not only did princes hide their

quarrels, but they also put on their most courteous manners and the

most refined and even austere address. The Byzantine display of

luxury and adornment had vanished. All the figures suggest the

sanctity of the King and his sister Isabel; the court has the air of

a convent; but the idea of Mary's majesty is asserted through it

all. The artists and donors and priests forgot nothing which, in

their judgment, could set off the authority, elegance, and

refinement of the Queen of Heaven; even the young ladies-in-waiting

are there, figured by the twelve Virtues and the fourteen

Beatitudes; and, indeed, though men are plenty and some of them are

handsome, women give the tone, the charm, and mostly the

intelligence. The Court of Mary is feminine, and its charms are

Grace and Love; perhaps even more grace than love, in a social

sense, if you look at Beauty and Friendship among Beatitudes.

M. Huysmans insists that this sculpture is poor in comparison with

his twelfth-century Prodigal Daughter, and I hope you can enter into

the spirit of his enthusiasm; but other people prefer the

thirteenth-century work, and think it equals the best Greek.

Approaching, or surpassing this,--as you like,--is the sculpture you

will see at Rheims, of the same period, and perhaps the same hands;

but, for our purpose, the Queen of Sheba, here in the right-hand

bay, is enough, because you can compare it on the spot with M.

Huysmans's figure on the western portal, which may also be a Queen

of Sheba, who, as spouse of Solomon, typified the Church, and

therefore prefigured Mary herself. Both are types of Court beauty

and grace, one from the twelfth century, the other from the

thirteenth, and you can prefer which you please; but you want to

bear in mind that each, in her time, pleased the Virgin. You can

even take for a settled fact that these were the types of feminine

beauty and grace which pleased the Virgin beyond all others.

The purity of taste, feeling, and manners which stamps the art of

these centuries, as it did the Court of Saint Louis and his mother,

is something you will not wholly appreciate till you reach the

depravity of the Valois; but still you can see how exquisite the

Virgin's taste was, and how pure. You can also see how she shrank

from the sight of pain. Here, in the central bay, next to King

David, who stands at her right hand, is the great figure of Abraham

about to sacrifice Isaac. If there is one subject more revolting

than another to a woman who typifies the Mother, it is this subject

of Abraham and Isaac, with its compound horror of masculine

stupidity and brutality. The sculptor has tried to make even this

motive a pleasing one. He has placed Abraham against the column in

the correct harshness of attitude, with his face turned aside and

up, listening for his orders; but the little Isaac, with hands and

feet tied, leans like a bundle of sticks against his father's knee

with an expression of perfect faith and confidence, while Abraham's

left hand quiets him and caresses the boy's face, with a movement

that must have gone straight to Mary's heart, for Isaac always

prefigured Christ.

The glory of Mary was not one of terror, and her porch contains no

appeal to any emotion but those of her perfect grace. If we were to

stay here for weeks, we should find only this idea worked into every

detail. The Virgin of the thirteenth century is no longer an

Empress; she is Queen Mother,--an idealized Blanche of Castile;--too

high to want, or suffer, or to revenge, or to aspire, but not too

high to pity, to punish, or to pardon. The women went to her porch

for help as naturally as babies to their mother; and the men, in her

presence, fell on their knees because they feared her intelligence

and her anger.

Not that all the men showed equal docility! We must go next, round

the church, to the south porch, which was the gift of Pierre

Mauclerc, Comte de Dreux, another member of the royal family, great-

grandson of Louis VI, and therefore second cousin to Louis VIII and

Philip Hurepel. Philip Augustus, his father's first cousin, married

the young man, in 1212, to Alix, heiress of the Duchy of Brittany,

and this marriage made him one of the most powerful vassals of the

Crown. He joined Philip Hurepel in resisting the regency of Queen

Blanche in 1227, and Blanche, after a long struggle, caused him to

be deposed in 1230. Pierre was obliged to submit, and was pardoned.

Until 1236, he remained in control of the Duchy of Brittany, but

then was obliged to surrender his power to his son, and turned his

turbulent activity against the infidels in Syria and Egypt, dying in

1250, on his return from Saint Louis's disastrous crusade. Pierre de

Dreux was a masculine character,--a bad cleric, as his nickname

Mauclerc testified, but a gentleman, a soldier, and a scholar, and,

what is more to our purpose, a man of taste. He built the south

porch at Chartres, apparently as a memorial of his marriage with

Alix in 1212, and the statuary is of the same date with that of the

north porch, but, like that, it was not finished when Pierre died in

1250.

One would like to know whether Pierre preferred to take the southern

entrance, or whether he was driven there by the royal claim to the

Virgin's favour. The southern porch belongs to the Son, as the

northern belongs to the Mother. Pierre never showed much deference

to women, and probably felt more at his ease under the protection of

the Son than of Mary; but in any case he showed as clearly as

possible what he thought on this question of persons. To Pierre,

Christ was first, and he asserted his opinion as emphatically as

Blanche asserted hers.

Which porch is the more beautiful is a question for artists to

discuss and decide, if they can. Either is good enough for us, whose

pose is ignorance, and whose pose is strictly correct; but apart

from its beauty or its art, there is also the question of feeling,

of motive, which puts the Porche de Dreux in contrast with the

Porche de France, and this is wholly within our competence. At the

outset, the central bay displays, above the doorway, Christ, on a

throne, raising His hands to show the stigmata, the wounds which

were the proof of man's salvation. At His right hand sits the

Mother,--without her crown; on His left, in equal rank with the

Mother, sits Saint John the Evangelist. Both are in the same

attitude of supplication as intercessors; there is no distinction in

rank or power between Mary and John, since neither has any power

except what Christ gives them. Pierre did not, indeed, put the

Mother on her knees before the Son, as you can see her at Amiens and

in later churches,--certainly bad taste in Mary's own palace; but he

allowed her no distinction which is not her strict right. The angels

above and around bear the symbols of the Passion; they are

unconscious of Mary's presence; they are absorbed in the perfections

of the Son. On the lintel just below is the Last Judgment, where

Saint Michael reappears, weighing the souls of the dead which Mary

and John above are trying to save from the strict justice of Christ.

The whole melodrama of Church terrors appears after the manner of

the thirteenth century, on this church door, without regard to

Mary's feelings; and below, against the trumeau, stands the great

figure of Christ,--the whole Church,--trampling on the lion and

dragon. On either side of the doorway stand six great figures of the

Apostles asserting themselves as the columns of the Church, and

looking down at us with an expression no longer calculated to calm

our fears or encourage extravagant hopes. No figure on this porch

suggests a portrait or recalls a memory.

Very grand, indeed, is this doorway; dignified, impressive, and

masculine to a degree seldom if ever equalled in art; and the left

bay rivals it. There, in the tympanum, Christ appears again;

standing; bearing on His head the crown royal; alone, except for the

two angels who adore, and surrounded only by the martyrs, His

witnesses. The right bay is devoted to Saint Nicholas and the Saints

Confessors who bear witness to the authority of Christ in faith. Of

the twenty-eight great figures, the officers of the royal court, who

make thus the strength of the Church beneath Christ, not one is a

woman. The masculine orthodoxy of Pierre Mauclerc has spared neither

sex nor youth; all are of a maturity which chills the blood,

excepting two, whose youthful beauty is heightened by the severity

of their surroundings, so that the Abbe Bulteau makes bold even to

say that "the two statues of Saint George and of Saint Theodore may

be regarded as the most beautiful of our cathedral, perhaps even as

the two masterpieces of statuary at the end of the thirteenth

century." On that point, let every one follow his taste; but one

reflection at least seems to force itself on the mind in comparing

these twenty-eight figures. Certainly the sword, however it may

compare with the pen in other directions, is in art more powerful

than all the pens, or volumes, or crosiers ever made. Your "Golden

Legend" and Roman Breviary are here the only guide-books worth

consulting, and the stories of young George and Theodore stand there

recorded; as their miracle under the walls of Antioch, during the

first crusade, is matter of history; but among these magnificent

figures one detects at a glance that it is not the religion or

sacred purity of the subject, or even the miracles or the

sufferings, which inspire passion for Saint George and Saint

Theodore, under the Abbe's robe; it is with him, as with the plain

boy and girl, simply youth, with lance and sword and shield.

These two figures stand in the outer embrasures of the left bay,

where they can be best admired, and perhaps this arrangement shows

what Perron de Dreux, as he was commonly called, loved most, in his

heart of hearts; but elsewhere, even in this porch, he relaxed his

severity, and became at times almost gracious to women. Good judges

have, indeed, preferred this porch to the northern one; but, be that

as you please, it contains seven hundred and eighty-three figures,

large and small, to serve for comparison. Among these, the female

element has its share, though not a conspicuous one; and even the

Virgin gets her rights, though not beside her Son. To see her, you

must stand outside in the square and, with a glass, look at the

central pignon, or gable, of the porch. There, just above the point

of the arch, you will see Mary on her throne, crowned, wearing her

royal robes, and holding the Child on her knees, with the two

archangels on either side offering incense. Pierre de Dreux, or some

one else, admitted at last that she was Queen Regent, although

evidently not eager to do so; and if you turn your glass up to the

gable of the transept itself, above the great rose and the colonnade

over it, you can see another and a colossal statue of the Virgin,

but standing, with the Child on her left arm. She seems to be

crowned, and to hold the globe in her right hand; but the Abbe

Bulteau says it is a flower. The two archangels are still there.

This figure is thought to have been a part of the finishing

decoration added by Philip the Fair in 1304.

In theology, Pierre de Dreux seems to show himself a more learned

clerk than his cousins of France, and, as an expression of the

meaning the church of Mary should externally display, the Porche de

Dreux, if not as personal, is as energetic as the Porche de France,

or the western portal. As we pass into the Cathedral, under the

great Christ, on the trumeau, you must stop to look at Pierre

himself. A bridegroom, crowned with flowers on his wedding-day, he

kneels in prayer, while two servants distribute bread to the poor.

Below, you see him again, seated with his wife Alix before a table

with one loaf, assisting at the meal they give to the poor. Pierre

kneels to God; he and his wife bow before the Virgin and the poor;--

but not to Queen Blanche!

Now let us enter!--

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