She determined on ascending the tributary stream to its highest
navigable point, calculating that the voyage would not occupy more than
seven or eight days. The Sobat valley is much more attractive to the eye
than the course of the White Nile. Its ample pastures, teeming with
flocks of ostriches and herds of giraffes, stretch away to the remote
horizon. Elephants wander freely in the fertile uplands, coming down to
the river at evening-time to drink. For weeks the voyagers lingered
among the fair scenery of this happy valley; and then they resumed their
ascent of the Nile as far as Lake Nu, where it receives the majestic
volume of the Bahr-el-Ghazal before striking sharply towards the south.
The swamps of the White Nile exhale a malarious atmosphere, unfavourable
to human life, but not adverse to the growth of a picturesque
vegetation. Tamarisks, mimosas, climbing plants, papyrus, and
euphorbia--the latter yielding a poisonous milky juice in which the
natives dip their deadly arrow-points--thrive in unchecked luxuriance,
and present a rich variety of colour.
* * * * *
Beyond Lake Nu the White Nile breaks into an intricate series of curves
and meanders, through which its current rushes with great rapidity, and
with such strength that the steamer was compelled to throw off the
towing-rope of the two Nile boats, and leave them to themselves. The
sailors and servants accordingly landed, and set to work with sturdy
arms to haul them against the stream. But in the worst fury of the
current the rope broke, and the boats drifting downward, seemed doomed
to destruction. Osman Aga, a resolute and courageous soldier, who was on
the deck of the steamer at the time, seized another rope and sprang
instantly into the river. With vigorous strokes he made for the shore.
He had almost gained it, and had flung the rope to the crew of the
nearest boat, when the strength of the current overpowered him, and he
sank! After awhile his surviving comrades recovered the brave fellow's
body, and gave it honourable burial in the native fashion at the foot of
a patriarchal tree, on the trunk of which was cut a memorial
inscription.
Some days after this sad event, Miss Tinne ascended the river to
Heiligenkreuz, an Austrian missionary station. There she remained until
mid-September, making a short excursion into the interior; crossing
rivers, penetrating into swampy forests, and visiting villages inhabited
by a quite naked population, feeding upon bats, snakes, termites, and
raw roots.
As the voyagers drew near Gondokoro they observed that the scenery
assumed a grander character. The river-banks lay deep in the shadow of
luxuriant tropical forests, in the recesses of which the ruins of
ancient buildings were sometimes visible. Gondokoro, long regarded as
the _ne plus ultra_ of the Nile Valley, was reached on the 30th of
September. It proved to be the farthest limit of the African
explorations of our heroine. She ardently desired to advance; to share
some of the glory which crowns the names of Speke and Grant, Baker and
Petherick; to behold with her own eyes the vast expanse of the blue
Victorian Sea; to trace to its fountain-head the course of the Nile; but
the authorities threw obstacles in her way which proved to be
insurmountable. Apart from these, the progress of the expedition was
arrested by the malarious fever which attacked herself and most of her
followers. In her own case the attack was so severe as at one time to
threaten her life.
After her recovery she devoted herself to the study of the habits and
manners of the tribes dwelling in the neighbourhood of Gondokoro. They
are all Baris; very ignorant and superstitious, but not naturally cruel.
The most prosperous trade among them is that of the sorcerer, who acts
also as the medicine-man. When a Bari falls ill, he hastens to consult
the Punok, receives from him some infallible and grotesque recipe,
and--behold he is cured! His faith in the prescribed remedy is the
source of its efficacy. One of these magicians had the address to
persuade the negroes of his immortality, and extracted from them ample
presents of oxen, sheep, and the like. Unfortunately, he declaimed
vehemently against the proceedings of the Egyptians, who having no
sense of humour, put him to death. His dupes collected round his dead
body, and waited patiently for his resurrection; they began to doubt
only when the corpse began to putrefy.
Among the Bari sorcerers an influential position is held by the
"rain-maker," and the villagers lavish upon him, in days of drought,
gifts of oxen, fruits and trinkets, as an inducement to evoke from the
clouds their treasures of genial rain. Greatness, however, has always to
pay a penalty; and if after the rain-maker has performed his rites, the
drought continues, it is not unusual for the disappointed people to
surround the Kodjan's house, drag him forth, and summarily cut open his
stomach, on the plea that as the storms make no outward sign they must
be shut up therein. Few are the years in which one of these
"rain-makers" does not perish, unless he is crafty enough to effect his
escape before his deception is discovered.
* * * * *
From Gondokoro Alexina Tinne returned to Khartum, where the European
community received her with applause. Her restless and adventurous
spirit, however, could not long endure the burden of inaction. Baffled
in one design, she immediately struck out another; and with
characteristic energy and daring she resolved on ascending the great
western tributary of the Nile, the Bahr-el-Ghazal, exploring the waters
which feed it, and penetrating into the country of the Nyam-Nyam. She
shared her counsels with two distinguished Abyssinian travellers, Dr.
Steudner, a German botanist, and Dr. Heughlin, a German naturalist, and
the plans of the three adventurers were soon matured. They were joined
by the Baron d'Arkel d'Ablaing; and having collected large supplies of
provisions--the list reads like the catalogue of a co-operative
store--and of articles suitable for barter, with a riding-horse for each
traveller, and such a wardrobe for Miss Tinne and her mother as to
justify the supposition that they intended to establish a _Magasin des
Modes_ among the Nyam-Nyam, they quitted Khartum in February, 1863. The
_personnel_ of the expedition numbered 200 souls, including the Dutch
women-servants, an Italian ship's steward, a Turkish officer, and ten
privates, besides twenty Berber soldiers and several Arab interpreters
and scribes. These were embarked on board a steamer, two dahabecyahs,
and two ordinary Nile boats, which also carried four camels, thirty
donkeys and mules, and the riding-horses aforesaid.
Doctor Heughlin, who had started in advance as a kind of pioneer,
passed, on the 31st of January, the Jebel Tefafan, a lofty mountain
which rises at no great distance from the river. His descriptions of the
scenery through which his boat conveyed him are very graphic. The river
broadened as he advanced, its entire breadth, however, not being
discernible from the boat. Vegetation became more luxuriant, and was on
a larger scale; the bushes resounded with the songs of birds, echoing
clearly across the transparent water. Splendid was the white plumage of
the osprey, shining in the midst of the dark-green foliage; nor less so
that of the little white heron, standing with melancholy aspect on the
prostrate tree-trunks. On an overhanging branch, defined against the
sky, was perched the timid, snake-necked cormorant, with fiery-red eyes
fixed on his slippery prey; then, plump as a stone, darted into the
water, above which, after a long interval, showed his head and neck. One
of his comrades seemed to feel a little too drenched after his late
immersion, for he sat in the sun, spreading out his beautiful plumage of
dark metallic-green to dry. The piping call of the cheerful jacamar was
changed at intervals for the deep, full note of the red-billed shrike,
as he sat hidden in the thicket; bright yellow weaver-birds twittered in
crowds on the boughs, whilst from the depth of the shade came the cooing
murmur of the turtle-dove. Stark and rigid, like the stem of an old
tree, the crocodile took his rest, sometimes with wide-open jaws: here
and there the hippopotamus lifted his giant head from the troubled
waters, now scattering them in showers of spray, now raising his fearful
voice, which every echo of the distant shores repeated.
At length Dr. Heughlin reached Lake Nu, on the Bahr-el-Ghazal. At that
time of the year the river in many places is as narrow as a canal, and
bordered on both sides by a swampy plain which stretches away to the dim
horizon, covered with a dense growth of gigantic reeds. At other places
it broadens into considerable lakes.
The natives navigate it in light canoes, which they manage with great
dexterity. They sit astride the stern, with their legs hanging down in
the water, and if they cannot find any branches capable of being used as
oars, they paddle with their hands. The Nouers, who inhabit this region
of marsh and morass, seem to offer an illustration of the Darwinian
theory of the "survival of the fittest." By a process of natural
selection, they have become thoroughly adapted to the conditions of the
soil and climate, the weaker of the race having been killed off. Their
physical strength is remarkable; they may, in fact, be described as a
race of Anaks, averaging from six to seven feet in height.
While Dr. Heughlin, in the true scientific spirit, industriously
explored the banks of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, Alexina Tinne was preparing to
join him, and was bringing all her energy to bear upon the difficulties
that impeded her. When only a few miles from Khartum, her captain came
to tell her, with signs of the greatest alarm, that the steamer was
leaking and must shortly sink. It is easy to imagine her anxiety; but
recovering her presence of mind, she gave orders that the cargo should
be immediately unloaded, and the leak being repaired, she resumed her
voyage. A few hours later, and the vessel was again in danger, the water
pouring in with greater violence than before. A careful investigation
was now made, and then it was discovered that the pilot and captain had
each agreed to bore a hole in the ship's hull, in the hope of abruptly
terminating a voyage which they, not less than their crew, regarded
with dread. Miss Tinne, however, was not to be thwarted in a fixed
resolve; she at once dismissed the more unworthy portion of the crew, as
well as the captain and the pilot, and then, with men who swore to be
faithful to her, she once more proceeded towards the Bahr-el-Ghazal.
Her progress at first was slow, on account of the growth of tall thick
grasses and aquatic plants that choked up the stream. In many places a
water-way for the steamer had to be cut with axe and knife. Grisly
crocodiles lay in the sun-baked mud; from the depths of the intertangled
reeds rose the snort of the hippopotamus; while, with steady gaze, the
elephant watched the movements of the strange apparition. The swamps of
the Gazelle River are the happy pasture-grounds of hundreds of wild
beasts. But though game is so plentiful, the sportsman finds it no easy
matter to get at it. He cannot make his way through the dry and withered
vegetation without a crackling of leaves and a snapping of stems, which
give instant alarm to vigilant and suspicious ears. No sooner does he
set foot in the jungle, than, as if warned by some secret telegraphic
agency, all its inmates take to flight. On one occasion, while Miss
Tinne's men were vainly seeking to track the great river-horse, a huge
elephant, which had probably pushed forward too far into the river in
the keenness of its thirst, was caught up in the current and driven
against one of the boats. This was too good an opportunity to be
neglected: the boatmen immediately attacked the ill-fated animal,
killed it, and cut it in pieces.
On the 10th of March the ladies steamed into the port of Meschra-el-Rey,
in the Bahr-el-Ghazal, and joined Dr. Heughlin. They were received with
great enthusiasm--flags flying and guns firing. Here a delay of some
days occurred, while they awaited further supplies of provisions, and a
number of porters to carry their baggage, from Khartum. At length the
gentlemen grew impatient, and it was arranged that they should go in
search of the promised bearers, leaving Miss Tinne and her companions at
Meschra. Accordingly, Drs. Heughlin and Steudner set out; but the
malarious climate was working its evil will upon them, and in a state of
great prostration from fever and dysentery, they traversed a desert
country, and crossing the river Djur on the 2nd of April, arrived the
same evening at Wan. Here Dr. Steudner succumbed to his disease, and
passed away, almost without pain, on the 10th. His friend contrived to
give him decent burial. The body was wrapped in Abyssinian cloth,
covered with leaves, and interred in the shade of melancholy boughs,
amidst "that magnificent nature whose true servant and worshipper he
was."
At Bongo, in the land of Dur, Dr. Heughlin succeeded in hiring an
adequate number of porters, though at a heavy price, and returned to
Meschra after an absence of six weeks. The ladies were suffering from
fever; but a supply of provisions having arrived from Khartum, they set
out, undismayed, for Bongo. They travelled by short stages, and when
towards nightfall they reached a village which seemed to offer
convenient quarters, Miss Tinne would send for the sheikh, and the gift
of a few beads was always sufficient to secure them convenient quarters.
The African villages are frequently of considerable size. They are
usually surrounded by a belt of cultivated ground, where dourra,
sesamum, and culinary vegetables thrive abundantly. The flocks that
swarm over the pastures often include some thousands of sheep, though
they are never killed by the natives for purposes of food. At first Miss
Tinne easily purchased several, but as soon as the natives discovered
that she slaughtered them for provision, they refused to sell.
Apparently they make them the object of a rude _cultus_, as the Lapps do
the hare. Their scruples vanished, however, at the sight of the White
Princess's trinkets. What is very curious is, that each tribe has its
favourite colour--that while one swears by blue beads, another has eyes
only for green; so that a tribe which will violate its conscience for a
handful of blue or yellow beads, will preserve it untouched if tested by
beads of any other colour. The most potent bribe--potent enough to
prevail over even the stoutest conscience--is a piece of blue or red
cotton; but this, on account of its moral value, Miss Tinne was careful
to keep exclusively for the chiefs.
The journey to Bongo was rendered tedious and troublesome by the rains.
A large quantity of provisions was spoiled, and the ladies on their
mules were drenched to the skin without any possibility of drying their
clothes. The country through which they passed presented scene upon
scene of an interesting or attractive character. The groves expanded
into woods, and the woods into forests, the delighted eye gazing with
ever fresh gratification on the dense network of creepers and wild vines
that stretched from tree to tree, while the green gloom was everywhere
lighted up with starry blossoms. As the travellers penetrated farther
into the country, they came upon an entirely different picture; vast
plains widened away to that vague horizon where earth and heaven seemed
to blend in mist. Occasionally the monotonous level was pleasantly
relieved by clusters of gracious trees, forming so many isles of
greenery, where the bland calm air was fragrant with the sweet subtle
odours breathed from magnificent cactuses, orchids, and irises.
Thousands of birds, surprised among the tall grasses by the passing
caravan, sprang aloft, and filled the air with the whir and winnow of
swift wings.
* * * * *
As for some years a marked diminution had taken place in the number of
elephants inhabiting the valley of the White Nile, the ivory traders had
gradually pushed forward into the lands watered by the Gazelle and the
Djur. This was a virgin region, a mine hitherto unworked, and
accordingly, in order to profit to the full by its resources, a chain
of stations was established, each in charge of a _vakeel_, or manager.
Every November these were visited by the traders, who carried off in
their boats the accumulated ivory, and sometimes added to their cargo of
elephants' tusks the unfortunate negroes who had served them as guides
and hunters. As time went on, they extended their operations, armed the
tribes one against the other, encouraged them in their destructive
feuds, and in this way consolidated their nefarious tyranny.
By one of these infamous traffickers in flesh and blood our travellers
were grossly plundered. At his urgent request, Miss Tinne and her
companions advanced to Bongo, where he exercised authority. A royal
welcome was accorded them. Their arrival was announced by volleys of
musketry, and Biselli (such was the name of the vakeel) met them at the
entrance to the village, and conducted them to a really spacious and
convenient residence, where they were immediately served with sherbet,
coffee, and other refreshing drinks. His lavish hospitality embraced
everybody; not only the travellers but their attendants. The _abrek_,
the drink of the country, was freely circulated among the people, and
distributed even to the porters.
Biselli, it was soon discovered, owned almost everything in the village,
and lorded it over the entire neighbourhood. Alexina requested him to
sell her some corn and oxen; he replied, in what seemed the spirit of a
true gentleman, that for twenty-four hours he was her host, that
consequently he had abdicated his position as a trader, and could think
of nothing but giving her an honourable reception. Far from diminishing,
his prodigality increased; and his European guests felt almost
humiliated at being the objects of so boundless a hospitality.
But on the following day he dropped his mask. Miss Tinne wished to hire,
for the accommodation of her people, a small _zeribah_, or camp,
containing two tents; and Biselli named thirty dollars as the rent, but
when Miss Tinne's servants began to store the baggage, he suddenly
raised his demand to two hundred. This attempt at extortion was promptly
and firmly refused; he then reduced the charge to forty dollars, which
was paid. Soon afterwards the caravan was in need of dourra, and
recourse was had to Biselli. The knave, presuming on their necessity,
charged forty times more than the price of dourra at Khartum, and on
every other article he put in like manner a tax of forty or fifty per
cent. He was no longer the generous host, but had resumed his natural
character as an unprincipled trader.
The fever continued its attacks after their arrival at Bongo, and, to
the great sorrow of Alexina, carried off her mother. Dr. Heughlin and
several of the men fell ill of it, and a general feeling of depression
pervaded the encampment. Dr. Heughlin relates how, after the death of
Madame Tinne, he went daily from the zeribah to Alexina's own residence,
situated at a considerable distance, to inquire after her health, and
console her in her affliction. To drag himself to and fro was all he
could do; and frequently his strength failed him on the way, so that he
had to sit down and rest. Sometimes he did not reach home till midnight,
and at other times was seized on the road with an attack of fever. A
Dutch girl, Alexina's maid-servant, was often almost mad with
home-sickness, lamenting her unhappy fate to die so young, so lonely,
and so far from home.
Eventually Miss Tinne found herself compelled to abandon her scheme of
penetrating into the land of the Nyam-Nyam, and carrying with her the
bodies of Madame Tinne and her maid, who had also fallen a victim to the
pestilence, she returned to Khartum, after an absence of a year and a
half. In the interval, her aunt, the Baroness van Capellan, had died
(May, 1864). Alexina, to recover from the shock of so many misfortunes,
retired to a village a short distance from Khartum, and gave herself up
to solitude and silence. When she had recruited her physical and mental
energies, she returned to Cairo.
There she took up her residence on a splendid scale. She furnished her
villa in the Oriental style; would have none but Arabs and negroes to
wait upon her, and, finally, she adopted the Arab dress. For four years
she continued to be a foremost figure in the semi-European, semi-Asiatic
society of Cairo; but her roving and adventurous spirit was not
quenched, her love of new things and new places was not checked. The
arrival of some vast caravans from the Sahara while she was on a
yachting voyage at Tripoli, fired her imagination anew with visions of
African discovery. She resolved upon an expedition which in boldness of
enterprise and romantic interest should exceed all previous adventures;
proposing to travel from Tripoli to the capital of Fezzan, thence to
Kuka in Bornu, and, westward, by way of Wadai, Darfur, and Kordofan, to
the Nile. To carry out this plan she would have to cross the country of
the Towaregs, the treacherous "pirates of the Desert," the cruellest and
falsest, and at the same time the bravest and handsomest, of the African
tribes; and she provided herself, therefore, with a strong escort,
consisting of three Europeans and forty-seven Arabs, well armed. On the
29th of January, 1869, she set out from Tripoli, and on the 1st of March
arrived at Sokna, in Fezzan. There she engaged the services of a Towareg
chief, Ik-nu-ken, to whom she had been recommended, and agreed with him
to attend her as far as Ghat; but at the last moment he was unable to
fulfil his engagement, and Miss Tinne accepted the proffered assistance
of two other chiefs, who professed to have been sent by him for that
purpose; it is known, however, that this statement was wholly
fictitious, and intended to beguile, as it did beguile, Miss Tinne into
a false security.
A few days after her departure from Sokna, these men, who had arranged
to murder and rob their unsuspecting patroness, continued to excite a
quarrel among the camel drivers; and when Miss Tinne quitted her tent to
ascertain the cause, one of them shot her with a rifle bullet, wounding
her to death. Not one of her escort--her three European attendants being
also massacred--offered her any assistance, and she was left to linger
for four-and-twenty hours in mortal agony at the door of her tent
(August 1st). It is pleasant to know, however, that justice eventually
overtook her murderers, who were captured in the interior, brought to
Tripoli, tried, and sentenced to imprisonment for life.[17]
Such was the unhappy termination of Miss Tinne's career--a career in
which much was promised and something performed, but in which, it must
be owned, the performance was not equal to the promise. But let us be
gentle in our criticism, for may not this be said, all too truly, of our
own lives? Who is it that realizes his own ideal?
FOOTNOTES:
[17] The story of Miss Tinne's death is differently told by different
authorities; but we believe the above to be a correct version. See Dr.
Heughlin's "Reise in das Gebiet des Weissen Nil," etc.; Dr. Augustus
Petermann, "Mittheilungen;" Miss Edwards's "Six Life-Studies of Famous
Women," etc.
MADAME IDA PFEIFFER.
I.