larger ones have it shipped in tank cars from which it is pumped at the
factory into a large storage tank, and siphoned off as needed. This is
the better way when it is used in large enough quantities to warrant
buying it in this manner. Barreled vinegar often contains very finely
divided charcoal, which is sometimes hard to strain out; the barrels are
often full of nails from which the vinegar dissolves iron, and this
iron, in combination with the tannic acid of spices, produces a chemical
compound (iron tannate) which is as black as ink; and sometimes the
barrels contain some foreign liquid, which was left in them when they
were filled with vinegar. The use of barrels also requires a lot of
handling, and the waste by evaporation through the wood is considerable
when the vinegar is held over a long time. One might imagine that the
evaporation from a large storage tank would be greater than from
barrels. However, such is not the case, as there is much more surface
per gallon for evaporation in the barrel than in the large tank. Vinegar
shipped in tank cars is free from contamination and is easily and
economically handled. Barreled vinegar should always be strained through
fine cheesecloth.
Transference of Vinegar
The use of steam pumps and ejectors, in fact any kind of steam appliance
for hoisting vinegar, should not be used, as the steam passes into the
vinegar, dissolves in it, and dilutes it. If you pump 100–grain vinegar
into a storage tank with a steam pump you may find that you have
90–grain when you get it up there. If it is necessary to pump the
vinegar, and it usually is, a small electric pump should be used. Either
enamel lined or wooden pipe should be used for vinegar. All iron pipe
and fittings should be eliminated.
Adding the Vinegar
Vinegar should be added about three minutes before the batch is done. To
do this it is usually necessary to cook the catsup just a shade heavier
before the vinegar is added than it will be when it is done. If a
hydrometer is used, about two degrees is enough. Five minutes should be
the outside limit for cooking the vinegar. Vinegar is a volatile liquid
and vaporizes rapidly. It should therefore only be cooked long enough to
insure its being thoroughly incorporated in the catsup, and three
minutes boiling is ample for this purpose. For a 100–gallon batch, 10½
gallons of 100 grain vinegar is about the right amount, and when
properly added will give an average total acidity of about 1.25 per cent
calculated as acetic acid.
Acidity
It should be understood that this total acidity will by no means be
constant, as there is such a great variation in the natural acidity of
tomatoes. Tomato pulp made from tomatoes all grown in the same locality,
and condensed to a specific gravity of 1.035, will run as low as 0.40
per cent in natural acidity, and as high as 0.70 per cent. This will
cause the total acidity of the catsup to vary accordingly. When in doubt
as to whether you are getting the proper acidity, send samples to a
chemist and have the acetic acidity determined. This is the acidity of
the vinegar alone. It should not run below 0.60 per cent. This figure
should be taken as the absolute minimum for acetic acidity.
Testing the Finishing Point
For testing the finishing point of catsup I recommend either testing by
the eye or the hydrometer method as described under the testing of pulp.
The eye cannot often be relied upon, although some experienced cooks are
very good at judging by the eye, and they do not need a mechanical
device of any kind. The specific gravity determination by weight, and
cooking to a certain gauge, or for a certain length of time, will not do
at all for catsup. I have used the hydrometer method on catsup for a
number of years, and it is entirely satisfactory. A little experimenting
will indicate the number of degrees on the hydrometer, when immersed in
the hot catsup, at which the catsup is heavy enough so that it will be
of the right thickness when cold. After this point has been determined
every batch should be almost exactly alike if it is cooked to this
point.
Holding Batches
Catsup should not be held in the cooking kettle very long, as the sugar
is apt to caramelize where the catsup is in contact with the hot surface
of the kettle or coil. Also, the air darkens it somewhat. Of course, if
the jacket or coil is completely exhausted, and the valves are
absolutely tight, there should not be this burning or caramelization
while holding a batch. However, there is often a very slight leak in the
valve, and the coil or jacket is thus kept hot constantly. The quicker
the cooked batch is let out of the kettle, the better.
Making Catsup From Pulp
Many catsup makers make their catsup from pulp altogether. They feel
that during the season they have their hands full packing pulp, and they
can work this pulp up into catsup during the winter months when there
would otherwise be little or nothing to do. When pulp is used, about 29
5–gal. cans of specific gravity 1.035 is sufficient for a batch of
catsup of 100 gallons. Do not add water to the pulp, even if it is a
little heavy. The only danger from not getting a very long cook is that
there will not be a very complete extraction of the spices, when whole
spices are used in a sack. If, however, each spice bag is cooked in two
batches, this danger is greatly minimized.
The question now arises—if I am making catsup from pulp which has been
put through a catsup finisher I am working with material which is
screened fine, whereas my hydrometer test is based on tomato juice from
my cyclone, which is coarser than this, and this finely screened stuff
will give me a different hydrometer reading. If you cook your catsup to,
say, 32 degrees, when making it direct from cycloned tomato juice, you
will probably find that 28 degrees is enough when making it from pulp
which has been put through a catsup finisher. The finisher makes this
much difference.
Use of Benzoate of Soda
The use of benzoate of soda in catsup permits of the use of a much
smaller quantity of vinegar and sugar than is used in non-preservative
goods. About 3 gallons of 100 grain vinegar to a 100–gallon batch is all
that is usually used, and this only makes it necessary to use about 50
lbs. of sugar.
The benzoate of soda is added just about a minute before the batch is
done.
It should be remembered that if ⅒th of 1% of benzoate of soda is being
used, this percentage is by weight, and that a gallon of cold catsup
weighs 9 or 9½ lbs., depending upon the amount of sugar that is used.
CHAPTER X
FINISHING, BOTTLING, STERILIZING, AND STORING THE CATSUP
The Receiving Tank and Finisher
From the cooking kettles the catsup is usually run through the finisher,
and then conducted to a receiving tank, either by gravity or by pumping.
If a pump is used, care should be taken that the pump parts which come
in contact with the catsup are of bronze. Needless to say, enamel lined
pipe should be used. The receiving tank should be either of wood, or
enamel, or glass-lined steel.
Regarding the finishing of the catsup, the action on the metal screen is
more severe than in pulp, and it is best to use a monel metal screen. It
will usually be noticed that the frothy catsup which collects at the
large end of the cone of the screen blackens quickly. This is probably
due to the air, and this catsup should be scraped off into a pail as it
collects, and mixed back in the cooking kettle, just giving it a minute
cook. It is also very important to see that the screen fits absolutely
tight, and to frequently inspect it for small cuts which are often made
by pieces of tin or glass accidentally getting into the catsup.
Filling and Sealing
If the catsup is to be sterilized after bottling it is usually just run
through an ordinary enamel lined pipe from the receiving tank to the
filling machine, but if it is not to be given an after-sterilization a
steam-jacketed pipe should be used here. This will be discussed further
later in the chapter.
Rotary fillers are being used quite commonly for catsup now, and they do
the work rapidly, with little waste, and with a small labor outlay per
gross for bottling. The more simple types of fillers, operated either
with a foot or hand lever, are less expensive, and also do the work
quite well, although not as rapidly as the rotary fillers.
The empty bottles should be washed in hot water on a rotary bottle
washing machine, and filled directly after washing if an
after-sterilization is to be used. If the catsup is not to be processed
after bottling, the empty bottles should be given a hot air
sterilization after they are washed, and the bottles conducted to the
filling machine from the sterilizer.
If an automatic rotary filler is used, the bottle capping machine is
usually regulated to operate at the same speed as the filler, and the
whole line becomes automatic. The type of closure most commonly used now
is the crown style, either plain or of the self-opening type. The cork
is getting to be a thing of the past for catsup. These closures come
either with a composition cork insert or with a solid cork insert, the
former being a little cheaper, and for catsup it is just as good. For
chili sauce, or any bottle having a wide mouth, I do not like the
composition cork insert, as the vacuum produced in a wide-mouthed bottle
on cooling is too great a strain on the composition, and is apt to cause
it to crack. For narrow-mouthed bottles such as catsup, the composition
cork is all right.
Washing the Filled Bottles
Whether or not an after-sterilization is used, the filled bottles should
be run through a warm water bath immediately after sealing to wash off
any catsup which adheres to the outside of the bottle before it has a
chance to bake on. If this water bath has a couple of jets of compressed
air entering it to keep the water vigorously agitated, the bottles will
come out nice and clean. Of course, a continuous flow of clean water
must be allowed to pass into the bath, with an overflow at the opposite
end. If bottles of catsup are put into processing tanks with catsup
adhering to the outside of the bottle, the soluble part of the catsup
will be dissolved in the process water but there will be flakes of
insoluble tomato fiber floating in the process water everywhere, and
these will bake on the bottles so hard that it is very hard to remove.
After a few days this condition in the process tanks becomes very bad,
and the bottles become increasingly hard to clean. If the bottles are
clean when they are put into the tanks, and the tanks are clean, they
will come out of the tanks clean and ready to be labeled.
Processing
The process method is probably used by the majority of catsup packers,
first, because they feel that an after-sterilization is an insurance
which is well worth paying for, and they can have more peace of mind
knowing that they have processed their goods; second, because by
processing carefully and intelligently the color and flavor of their
goods will be scarcely effected, except when made from pulp which is a
little overcooked; third, because they don’t know much about packing
catsup so that it will keep without processing, and they don’t care to
experiment, as they feel that in the end the experimenting may prove
disastrous to their business.
In this attitude no one can blame them. There is nothing more trying on
a manufacturer than having complaints on fermentation coming in from
every corner of the country. The natural inclination is to let well
enough alone, and take no chances.
At the same time it must be admitted that thousands of cases of catsup
are being manufactured every day without processing, and it is giving
little or no trouble. Those who use this system say it is a waste of
time and money to process, and that years of experience have shown that
processing is unnecessary.
Advantages of Omitting Processing
There are certain advantages in not processing. In the first place a
better colored and flavored product is often obtained, particularly if
the catsup is made from pulp, and especially is this true if the pulp is
a little overcooked, and consequently a little dark in color. Then there
is the advantage of the saving on labor and on steam, which is a large
item. Running a half dozen or more process tanks constantly draws
heavily on the steam supply, and the processing means more handling of
the bottled product, and therefore more labor. It also means more
equipment, with the floor space which this equipment takes—not only a
lot of tanks, in case stationary tanks are used, but iron baskets to
hold the bottles, electric or steam hoist, and trolley track. Not only
the original cost but the maintenance of this equipment is considerable.
Then there is a certain amount of breakage during processing. Also,
steam must be kept up late at night for no other purpose than
processing.
When no after-sterilization is used all of this is done away with, and
the only equipment needed to supplant the above is a steam-jacketed pipe
to conduct the catsup to the filling machine, and a continuous hot air
sterilizer for the bottles, which usually consists of a vertical shaft,
and takes up practically no floor space.
Process Method
I will discuss in detail the process method first. The catsup should be
filled as hot as possible, and it is a good idea to use a steam-jacketed
pipe in this case, as well as in the non-process method, because the
hotter the catsup is when bottled, the quicker the center of the bottle
will be raised to the desired temperature, and the quicker the
sterilization can be accomplished. The catsup should be 180 degrees or
above when it enters the tank of the filling machine, and it should be
placed in the process tanks as soon after sealing as possible.
The process tanks may be large stationary iron tanks, or a continuous
pasteurizer such as is used in beer bottling plants may be used. The
latter is the better way, as it is compact, automatic, takes up very
little floor space, and there is no danger of over-sterilization, or of
scorching by leaving the bottles in the tanks after the water is drawn
off, where the air cannot get at them to cool them off. The reason
continuous pasteurizers are not used more commonly is their expense,
although they should pay for themselves in a few years by the labor and
steam they save, it being only necessary to keep one large tank in
operation instead of a half dozen or more.
If stationary tanks are used, which is usually the case, the catsup
should be taken out of them as soon as the water is drawn off, so that
the air can get at the bottles and cool them off. To leave the hot,
bottled catsup in the tanks over night is almost as bad as piling a lot
of hot pulp close together, the only difference being that there is a
little more room for air circulation between the catsup bottles, but not
much.
Time and Temperature
There is a great difference between the time and temperature employed
for processing in different factories. Some packers process as low as
170 degrees F., it is said, while others use a temperature very close to
the boiling point. In some plants pint bottles receive only a 30–minute
process, while in others they get over an hour.
The proper time to use depends upon the temperature that can be
maintained at the filling machine, and the rapidity with which the
processing can be done after the filling. If the packer can hold his
catsup around 180 degrees at the filler, and is so equipped, either with
continuous pasteurizers or stationary tanks, that he can process
immediately, an hour is ample time for pints, and 45 minutes is
sufficient for half-pints; other sizes accordingly. If, however, the
temperature of the catsup at the filler often falls to 170 degrees or
below, and the catsup is filled faster than it can be processed, so that
at times much of it must stand for an hour before it can get in the
process tanks, 15 minutes additional for each size bottle had better be
added to the above.
This may seem to some packers like a long time. All one has to do to
convince himself that it is not too long is to take one of those
thermometers which are made especially for determining temperatures at
the center of the bottle, and put it in a bottle of catsup while it is
being processed, watch the mercury rise, and note the time it takes to
bring the center of the bottle to the temperature of the water
surrounding it. You will find that if the water surrounding a pint
bottle is 200 degrees, and the temperature at the center of the bottle
is 160 degrees, it will take just about an hour to bring the catsup at
the center of the bottle up to 200 degrees.
As to the proper temperature, I do not see why as high a temperature as
is possible without breaking the bottles should not be used. Why some
packers process at 170 degrees or 180 degrees I do not know. They
certainly have not carefully investigated the effect of their
processing. The temperature I prefer is six degrees below boiling. At
sea level this would be 206 degrees. This temperature will not break the
bottles, but the steam pipes entering the tank should be so arranged and
perforated that there will be as even a distribution of steam as
possible. If these pipes are not properly arranged, there is apt to be
as much as 6 degrees variation in the temperature at different parts of
the tank.
Several years ago I made a large number of tests to determine the number
of micro-organisms that remained alive in bottled catsup after
processing at 206 degrees F., as compared with the number which remained
alive in catsup bottled from the same batch and processed at 200 degrees
F. for the same length of time. The difference was surprising. I
expected some difference, but not nearly as great as was shown by the
tests. That which was processed at 200 degrees for an hour contained
quite a few living molds, yeasts, and bacteria per cubic centimeter.
This was shown by plating out samples bacteriologically on culture
media—the media used being dextrose agar and wart agar. The catsup from
the same batch processed one hour at 206 degrees contained scarcely any
living micro-organisms at all per cubic centimeter. This test was
repeated a number of times with the same result each time. These
micro-organisms may have been in the form of spores in the catsup, but
developed into the vegetative forms of molds, yeasts, and bacteria when
placed in the culture media.
Temperature Controlling and Recording Devices
The process tanks should all be equipped with temperature controllers
and recording thermometers. The controller holds the steam at the right
point, not allowing the temperature to vary more than 2 degrees, if it
is a good make. Several years ago it was impossible to find a
temperature controller which operated without compressed air that would
hold the temperature closer than a variation of 10 degrees, which is too
wide a variation for catsup pasteurization. The compressed air
controllers worked very well but required an air compressor where the
pressure must be held within certain limits, and air pipes to connect
with all the controllers. Some plants did not have the air equipment,
and in cases where it was put in the pipes gave more or less trouble due
to the collection of moisture in them and to occasional grains of dust
or rust from the air tank which lodged in the controller and threw it
off. It is now possible, however, to obtain controllers which will
operate with almost no variation from the temperature desired, and which
require no compressed air for their proper functioning. Under these
conditions there is hardly an excuse for a manufacturer to operate his
plant on the old system of hand control of the steam valves, with the
resulting losses in manufactured goods due to pure reliance on human
efficiency.
The recording thermometer makes a pen and ink record on a chart showing
the temperature and length of time each tank of catsup is given, or, if
a continuous pasteurizer is used, it shows up any variations in the
temperature of the water in that pasteurizer during the day. The factory
manager can look at all of these charts in the morning, and know
positively that every bottle of catsup was processed the right length of
time, and at the right temperature. If any mistakes were made the chart
will show it, and it will show at just what time the mistake was made,
and how serious it was. It is a great satisfaction to have such a
record, and the processor invariably takes great pride in making a
perfect chart.
Non-Process Method
When no after-sterilization is given, it is imperative that the catsup
be very hot when filled. Boiling catsup runs about 214 degrees F. in
temperature, and although running it through the finisher and receiving
tank cools it down somewhat, if it is heated in a long jacketed pipe
while being conveyed from receiving tank to filling machine it should
not be below 180 degrees at the very lowest when filled, and if it can
be filled hotter than that, so much the better. As to the pipe above
mentioned, the smaller the pipe, and the larger the steam jacket, and
the higher the steam pressure, the greater will be the heating capacity
of this jacket on the catsup. After a little experimenting these points
can be adjusted to give the proper result. If the jacketed area is
short, of course a higher steam pressure must be used than if this area
is long.
Some packers of non-processed catsup use a jacketed tank or kettle
directly over the filling machine to hold the catsup at a high
temperature while it is awaiting bottling, with a very short line of
enamel pipe going from it to the filling machine. If this is used, a
jacketed pipe is not needed.
Guesswork should be eliminated. Do not assume that you are getting the
right temperature on your catsup when it is filled, and do not be
satisfied with going up to the filler once or twice a day, dropping a
thermometer in the liquid, and waiting for the temperature to record
itself. Put a recording thermometer in that tank just over the filling
tubes, with the dial in a prominent place, so that you can step up to it
at any time and know what the exact temperature of that catsup has been
every minute of the time for the past ten or twelve hours.
If this is done there is no chance of escape on the part of the man who
is supposed to watch this temperature, and if he knows his work is being
recorded every minute on a chart he is going to be mighty careful.
The empty bottles, when placed in the filling machine, should be clean
and practically sterile. After they have passed around the rotary bottle
washer, and had a thorough washing with hot water, they are placed in
the hot air sterilizer neck down, so they can drain. The best kind of
sterilizer is an endless chain carrying trays to hold about a dozen
bottles each, and enclosed and protected by either wood or metal. The
sterilizer should be vertical, so that it will not occupy much floor
space, and inside of the wood or metal covering are steam pipes fitted
with a temperature controller or thermostat so that a temperature of
about 250 degrees F. can be maintained. The speed of the endless chain
is so regulated that it takes about 30 minutes from the time the bottles
enter the sterilizer until they come out.
Needless to say, the filling machine should be kept scrupulously clean,
and before being used in the morning, or for the afternoon run, should
be thoroughly steamed out so that it will be hot and practically sterile
to receive the first batch of catsup.
As to the bottle closures, if they are kept in covered barrels in a
clean place and not allowed to be contaminated by dust, etc., it is not
considered necessary to sterilize them, although they could no doubt be
given a hot air sterilization very easily if it was thought necessary. I
have seen thousands of cases packed without sterilizing the closures,
and the catsup never gave any trouble.
After applying the closure the bottles are rinsed off in a warm water
bath, and are then ready to be labeled and cased.
Which Method Is the Better?
Now comes the question which is of vital importance to every packer—what
am I going to do—give my catsup an after-sterilization or not? I believe
the answer to that question should depend upon the conditions under
which the packer operates. I do not believe either method is to be
recommended universally, but that there are many cases where it is
better not to process, and other cases where processing is advisable.
If a manufacturer makes his product at a large central plant, where he
can count on reliable and fairly intelligent help at all times, and
where he is so equipped that he is not bothered with frequent breakdowns
and delays during the day’s run, he should give the non-processing
method his careful consideration, and I believe he will profit by
adopting it. If, on the other hand, he has many plants scattered all
over the country, many of them dependent to a large extent on an
indifferent class of help, with little experience or intelligence, or he
has a lot of wornout equipment, and has several breakdowns almost every
day in the bottling department, he had better insure his product by
processing.
If I were building a new plant or remodeling an old one, I would most
certainly arrange to eliminate processing if I could count on a fairly
good class of help.
Labeling and Casing
Most bottles are labeled by machine. The machines do the work much
faster than can be done by hand, and also do it neater as a rule.
However, in most cases it is necessary to have someone to adjust the
neck band after the bottle leaves the machine. Sometimes they are
wrapped, and sometimes not. Wrapping in transparent tissue makes a very
attractive package, and it will modify the effect of strong light, which
some manufacturers think has a discoloring tendency if the catsup is
exposed to it a long time.
Both wood and fiber cases are used for catsup, and the fiber cases seem
to do all right where the contents do not weigh over about 40 lbs. If
they weigh more than that it is usually considered advisable to use wood
cases.
Stacking Catsup to Avoid “Black Neck”
In CHAPTER VIII mention was made of the darkening in the neck of the
bottle, called “black neck.” It was stated that this was usually due to
the fact that the closure is not absolutely air tight, and allows the
air to very slowly filter into the space in the neck, which should be a
vacuum if the seal is perfectly tight. This condition can be partly
avoided by printing the cases so that when the case is stacked right
side up the catsup will be neck down in the case. Therefore, the vacuum
space will be at the bottom of the bottle, instead of at the neck, and
there is no chance for air to filter into the neck because the body of
the catsup is right up against the closure. When these cases are shipped
out and stacked in a warehouse, the catsup will always be bottom up as
long as the cases are right side up. In all probability the bottles will
remain in this position until the case is unpacked by the retailer and
the bottles are placed on the shelves.
Packing Gallons and No. 10’s
Packing catsup in gallon glass jars and enamel lined No. 10 cans is very
similar to packing it in bottles. These sizes can either be processed or
not processed, and the same principles apply as in packing the smaller
sizes. If no process is given, the containers should be put through a
hot air sterilizer, just as the small bottles are, and the catsup should
be very hot when filled.
With glass jars the breakage is often very great, and they must be
heated slowly and carefully, and placed on a warm wooden surface when
they are filled. A metal surface beneath the jars will almost always
cause a lot of breakage due to the fact that it chills so easily. For
the closure a cork is usually used, and the process should not exceed
180 degrees, as a higher temperature will cause the corks to pop out. A
process of two hours is sufficient for gallon jars.
If No. 10 catsup is given an after-sterilization, 1½ hours in boiling
water is sufficient. It must be understood that it takes much longer for
the heat to penetrate to the center of a can of catsup than it does with
pulp, as the catsup contains sugar and salt and is heavier in specific
gravity. After-sterilization the cans should be cooled gradually in
water, and allowed to remain in the water until they only have
sufficient heat left to allow the water to evaporate from the surface of
the can and prevent rusting.
CHAPTER XI
THE MANUFACTURE OF CHILI SAUCE AND THE PULPING OF TOMATO TRIMMINGS
Chili sauce is the finest tomato product manufactured. It differs from
catsup in that it is made from whole peeled tomatoes with the seeds and
fiber left in, and in that it usually contains more onion than catsup,
and is usually a little “hotter.”
Grading the Tomatoes
For chili sauce the tomatoes are peeled as they are for canning. As a
rule they are run over a grader and only the large ones are used for
peeling, the small ones being pulped or made into catsup. It does not
pay to peel the small tomatoes, as it requires too much labor, and the
women who do the peeling at so much per bucket try to fight shy of them,
and often mash them up in their buckets to avoid having to peel them.
They will make just as good pulp or catsup as the large tomatoes will,
and much more can be got out of them in this way than if an attempt is
made to get them peeled.
Sometimes the small tomatoes and the peelings of the large tomatoes are
pulped together. If this is done the whole small tomatoes tone up the
flavor of the peelings, and also help to keep the final product within
safe limits as to microscopical count.
Some packers throw away the peelings, either because they are so busy
with the whole tomatoes that they can’t bother with them, or because
they are afraid the pulp which they are worked up into will run high in
micro-organisms, and they don’t want to have such pulp on their hands.
Method of Handling Tomatoes
The usual method of handling the tomatoes is to run them first over a
sorting belt, where they are inspected by several women, then over a
grader, which lets the small tomatoes fall through on to a belt which
conveys them to a washing arrangement, and thence to the “breaking
tanks,” or to the pulp machine, or the crusher, depending upon which
pulping method is used. The small tomatoes may or may not be given a
second sorting.
If the trimmings are to be thrown away, the large tomatoes don’t need to
be sorted, as the peelers will take care of that, and in this case a
good way is to put all the tomatoes through a rotary washer first, then
over a grader, and have the small tomatoes carefully sorted after the
grading is done. The large tomatoes pass from the grader to the scalder,
and thence to the peeling table or “merry-go-round,” where they are
peeled.
The best method to use if the trimmings are to be pulped will be
discussed later in the chapter.
The peeled tomatoes are thrown into a cutting machine which cuts them
into good-sized chunks, and drops them on a bucket conveyor which takes
them to the cooking kettles. The cutter should be so adjusted that it
will not make the tomatoes mushy. A few fair-sized pieces of tomato in a
bottle of chili sauce is nearly always pleasing to the consumer.
It is important that the peeling be thorough. Each bucket should be
inspected before the tomatoes are thrown into the chopper. Pieces of
peeling in chili sauce are very noticeable when the product is used, and
make an unfavorable impression.
Amount of Tomatoes and Onions
It takes just about 72 fourteen-quart buckets of peeled tomatoes of
average firmness to make 100 gallons of finished chili sauce. For this
same amount about 100 lbs. of chopped onions should be used. The onions
should be very carefully peeled, and very finely chopped. If this
chopping is not done fine enough the pieces of onion will stop up the
tubes of the filling machine. It is best to use only large onions for
chili sauce, as it takes a great many women to peel the required amount
if small ones are used, and the waste on the small ones is considerable
when the peeling must be done so thoroughly.
The cooking is carried out the same as in catsup, and the same
ingredients are used, with the possible exception of garlic, which, so
far as I know, is not often used in chili sauce.
Spices
The spicing is very similar to catsup. In some brands about twice as
much cayenne is used as was suggested for catsup, while other brands are
spiced mildly. One of the best liked brands on the market is quite mild,
and another brand which is equally popular is quite hot.
Salt, Sugar and Vinegar
The same amounts of salt and vinegar are used as in catsup, and they are
added in exactly the same manner. About 10 lbs. more of sugar is needed
for a 100–gallon batch than is used in catsup. This is probably
necessitated by the large amount of onions used.
Testing Finishing Point
Testing the point at which the cooking is completed must be done by the
eye. The hydrometer can not be used, as chili sauce is too lumpy. A
hydrometer can only be used when the product is smooth and homogeneous.
By a little experience the cook will soon learn to judge the finishing
point. It is that point at which very little water runs from the lumps
of tomatoes when the chili sauce is hot, and practically no free water
shows when a little of it is cooled in a saucepan. In my opinion the
finishing point of chili sauce is easier to judge by the eye than it is
on catsup.
Filling, Sealing, and Sterilizing
As to filling, sealing, sterilizing or not sterilizing, labeling,
stacking, etc., the same remarks apply to chili sauce as to catsup. The
filling is somewhat more difficult, as the product is lumpy, and a
special filling tube must be used. As to whether an automatic rotary
filler similar to that used for catsup is ever used for chili sauce I do
not know. I have always filled it with one of the old style catsup
fillers, using a special filling tube.
On account of the fact that a wide-mouthed bottle is used, there is even
more danger of air leakage in the neck of the bottle, causing “black
neck,” than there is in catsup. It is a common sight to see chili sauce
with an inch, or even two inches, of blackening at the top of the
bottle. Sometimes the very finest quality of cork is used, and then
paraffin is put over that, but even then we find that this darkening is
not avoided. I recommend the same procedure here as was given when
discussing this subject on catsup.
If a crown seal, either plain or of the self-opening type, is used as
the closure, a pure cork insert should be used. As mentioned in a
previous chapter, the composition cork insert does not work as well on
wide-mouthed bottles as it does on those with a narrow mouth.
The remarks which were made on the packing of No. 10 and gallon catsup
also apply to the packing of chili sauce in these sizes.
Microscopical Counts
The counts of molds, yeasts and spores, and bacteria in chili sauce
usually run very low. I have never seen a sample that ran high in molds,
and very few that ran high in the other counts. The molds seldom run
higher than 10, and counts of zero are often obtained. This is because
practically all of the mold in tomatoes is on the outside and clings to
the peeling. When the peeling is removed the mold is removed. As the
peeled tomatoes are usually cut and cooked immediately after they are
peeled, there is very little opportunity for the multiplication of
yeasts and bacteria.
Pulping the Trimmings
Trimming pulp, or “skin and core,” as it is sometimes called, is made
from that part of the tomato which is removed when the tomatoes are
peeled. This consists of the peeling, with the tomato substance which
clings to it, and the hard core at the stem end of the tomato.
In as much as practically all of the mold in or on the tomatoes is
retained in the trimmings, it is not an easy matter to work these
trimmings up into a product which will mark up to the government
requirements, and do it economically. If the tomatoes are firm and
largely free from cracks around the stem end it is not so bad, but when
they come in badly cracked, with tufts of mold growing in all the
cracks, as is often the case late in the season, the amount of labor
required to properly sort them makes the working up of trimmings
unprofitable.
When the trimmings show up fairly well, and the labor to handle them is
available, there is no reason why the chili sauce packer or tomato
canner should not utilize what would otherwise be a waste by turning it
into pulp or “trimming catsup.”
Government Attitude on Trimming Pulp
The government does not object to the manufacture of tomato products
from trimmings, but they demand that the product comply with the
regulations as to micro-organisms, and that it be sold for exactly what
it is, and if put up for sale to the consuming public, that it be
labeled—“made from pieces of tomatoes,” or, “made from tomato
trimmings,” or, if small tomatoes are worked up with the trimmings,
“made from small tomatoes and tomato trimmings,” or, “made from small
tomatoes and pieces of tomatoes.”
Method of Handling Tomatoes When Trimmings Are Pulped
If the trimmings are to be pulped the tomatoes must be very carefully
sorted, and thoroughly washed, preferably in a rotary washer. As it is
practically impossible to sort or wash the trimmings, the tomatoes must
be in almost perfect condition when they enter the scalder. Washing the
trimmings carries away too much of the tomato substance which clings to
them, and sorting is not practicable, as the soft rot and mold becomes
incorporated in the entire mass and it is impossible to separate it. The
peelers can not be depended upon to sort out any substantial amount of
rot when they do the peeling. Therefore the only thing that can be done
toward keeping down the micro-organisms is _painstaking sorting of the
whole tomatoes and thorough washing_ to keep out the mold, having the
conveying equipment and tanks clean, and bringing the trimmings to a
boil quickly to prevent multiplication of yeasts and bacteria. It is
wise to steam out the peeling buckets and bucket conveyors at noon, as
well as at quitting time, as the juice which lies in them is constantly
undergoing fermentation.
When the trimmings are pulped, either alone or with the small tomatoes,
the tomatoes are all washed and sorted before they are graded. The
trimmings should be cooked before they are run through the pulp
finisher, so as to get all of the clinging tomato substance cooked away
from the skin. The density to which to cook the trimmings can be judged
fairly well by the eye, or the specific gravity test by weighing can be
used.
The pulp is canned the same as whole pulp.
CHAPTER XII
THE MANUFACTURE OF TOMATO SOUP
Convenience and Economy of Canned Soup
Canned tomato soup is a commodity which is increasing in favor with the
housewife. The old method of preparing this soup in the home was to open
a can of tomatoes, strain it through a colander, and stew it, adding
butter, salt, sugar, spices, flour, and perhaps soda and milk. The
modern way is to immerse a can of condensed tomato soup in boiling water
for five minutes, open it, and mix the contents with an equal volume of
hot water or hot milk. How much more convenient the modern way is, and
when the quality is just as good and often better than can be obtained
the long troublesome way, it is natural that canned tomato soup should
become increasingly popular. Buying the canned soup is also cheaper than
buying the canned tomatoes and making the soup from them.
Factors Upon Which Success Depends
The maker of tomato soup should be a crank on quality. There is no other
tomato product in which quality is at a greater premium. In catsup and
chili sauce, heavy spicing and mixing with lots of vinegar and sugar
help to mask the tomato flavor, but in soup the spicing is light, no
vinegar is used, and being eaten as a food in itself, instead of as a
condiment with which to flavor a food, the palate quickly detects
inferiority. Also, the palate is just as quick to detect that pleasing
fresh tomato taste which should be the basis of all good soup.
The quality of the tomato stock is the real important thing. Fresh
tomatoes may be used or a fine grade of pulp may be used, and either
will make an excellent soup. With poor tomato stock a good soup cannot
be made no matter what you do to it. Spicing artistically, and making
rich by the use of plenty of good butter, will not make amends for poor
quality of tomato stock.
To succeed in making tomato soup the manufacturer must at least make
good on the following counts: first, his soup must be palatable, that
is, pleasing, to the taste with no lingering unpleasant after-taste;
second, it must not be too sweet or too sour; third, it must be uniform
in consistency, smooth when poured out of the can, and must not get
lumpy or grainy after being in storage a long time; fourth, it must not
curdle fresh milk, even though the housewife adds no baking soda when
mixing milk with it; fifth, it must be reasonable in price and
attractively packed in popular sizes.
Unpalatability
I will discuss these points a little further. What makes tomato pulp
unpalatable and what causes an unpleasant after-taste? The most common
cause is poor tomato stock, or tomato stock which has been overcooked.
Such a foundation for soup will almost invariably leave a lingering
unpleasant after-taste in the mouth. Another thing is too much flour,
masking the flavor of the tomato and giving it a somewhat “pasty” taste.
Another thing is the injudicious use of spices, producing unpopular
flavors, or using one spice, such as bay leaves, for instance, in such
large proportion that almost every other flavor is masked. None of these
defects are rare in tomato soups, and they all cause unpalatability to
some extent.
Proper Sweetness
Getting proper sweetness is not nearly so easy as one might suppose. It
is not so difficult when the soup is made from fresh tomatoes, although
even then every batch must be tasted after all but a few pounds of the
sugar is added, and the amount of sugar varied according to the
sweetness of the tomatoes. When the weather is moderately dry, with
plenty of sunshine, the tomatoes are usually sweet and do not require so
much sugar, but tomatoes which ripen during rainy, dark, cold days are
not so sweet, and a little more sugar is needed.
When making soup from canned pulp it is necessary to watch the sweetness
of the pulp very close, and it may be necessary for the cook to vary the
sugar on a 100–gallon batch ten or fifteen pounds during a day’s run.
Canned pulp often varies greatly in sweetness, and if held in storage
for many months it often loses some of its sweetness on account of the
action of living, acid forming bacteria, which may not be present in
large amount, but nevertheless, in time, have a noticeable effect on the
sweetness of the pulp.
When pulp is purchased for the purpose of making soup its sweetness
should be one of the first considerations in passing judgment on it.
Gradual Souring of Pulp
When the soup manufacturer makes his own pulp and works it up into soup
during the winter months he will probably find that he will save on his
sugar bill if he will pack the pulp in No. 10 cans and sterilize it—at
least that part of the pulp which must be held in storage several
months. In this way living, acid forming bacteria are killed, and the
danger of the pulp losing its sweetness during months of storage is
greatly minimized.
The fact that the gradual souring of pulp in 5–gal. cans, even though
very slight, is due to the action of living, acid forming bacteria can
hardly be doubted. Bacteriological tests supplemented by chemical
analyses would determine the matter definitely, but there is evidence in
the experience of every canner to show that this souring is due to the
fact that the pulp is not sterile.
Canned tomatoes are always sterilized and can be kept in storage for
years without losing their sweetness. Pulp packed in 5–gallon cans is
not sterilized and quite a after-sterilization percentage of it will
lose much of its sweetness on being stored for six months, and after
being stored a year still more is lost. It takes hundreds of pounds of
expensive sugar to make up for this loss of sweetness when the pulp is
made into soup.
Sampling
Of course, a cook is not infallible in his judgment as to just what is
the right sweetness and he needs the co-operation of others at the
factory. The factory manager should make it a point to sample the soup
several times a day, and also to have others sample it. It is better to
have it just a little less sweet than it should be than to have it too
sweet. The consumer can always add a little sugar but cannot take any
out.
The third point mentioned above—that of uniform consistency and
smoothness, will be discussed fully under the cooking and shaking
processes.
Proper Acidity
I stated as the fourth point that the soup should not curdle fresh milk,
even though no soda is added by the housewife. One of the favorite ways
of preparing canned tomato soup in the home is to mix it with an equal
quantity of hot milk. The experienced housewife knows enough to add a
pinch of soda to the milk before adding the soup, and she may also know
that she will get a smoother mixture if she slowly pours the soup into
the milk, stirring constantly, than if she pours the milk into the soup.
The inexperienced housewife does not know these things, and often she
opens the can and mixes it with milk without reading the admonition on
the label as to how the cream of tomato soup should be prepared.
Sometimes she forgets to add the soda, or does not thoroughly dissolve
it, or does not add enough of it, and then there is disappointment. In
order to guard against such disappointments the soup canner should so
prepare his product that curdling of the milk cannot occur under any
method of mixing. The way to do this is to add enough soda to the soup
to reduce the acidity to a point where it will not curdle fresh milk,
whether the soup is poured into the milk or the milk into the soup. The
canner can then print a notice on the label of the can to the effect
that it is not necessary to add soda to this soup when preparing it as
“cream of tomato,” as the soda is already in it.
The acidity of the tomato is the active principle which causes the milk
to curdle. If this acidity runs 0.60% it will curdle the milk badly. If
it is reduced to 0.50% it will still curdle the milk, but if it is
reduced to 0.40% it will not curdle the milk, if the milk is fresh. The
aim of the soup maker should therefore be to keep the acidity of the
soup between 0.30 and 0.40%, not allowing it to go above or below these
limits. If it is reduced below 0.30% the flavor of the tomato begins to
be effected—in fact, if possible, it is best to keep the acidity between
0.35 and 0.40% to avoid any possibility of loss of tomato flavor.
Now, the packer will ask—“How am I going to do this acidity testing? I’m
not a chemist, and have no chemist at my factory, or any laboratory.”
The acidity test on pulp and soup is a very simple one. The equipment
required scarcely amounts to anything, as the sample can be taken by
volume. Any chemist will be glad to show you how to make this test and
to secure for you the few accessories needed.
Why is there less danger of curdling if the soup is poured into the milk
than if the milk is poured into the soup? The soup contains all the
acid, and the milk contains none. If the soup is poured into the milk
slowly, with stirring, the acid is slowly added to the milk, and is
diluted, there being at the beginning of the mixing a very small volume
of acid and a large amount of milk. If, however, the milk is added to
the soup, a small volume of milk is at first being thrown into a large
volume of acid, and naturally the danger of curdling is considerably
increased. But if the acidity of the soup is not above 0.40% and the
milk is fresh, there will not be an appreciable amount of curdling no
matter which way the two are mixed. A statement as to the proper way of
mixing with milk should be made on the label.
Price and Quality
That the soup, to be a success, must be popular in price and packed in
convenient sizes is self evident, and there is no need of dwelling on
this point. Practically all of the tomato soup on the market is packed
either in the 10½ oz. or 16 oz. size, and almost all of it is cheap in
comparison with other foods, but it is a mistake to cut the quality one
iota in order to shade the price. The mark for quality should be set at
the highest point possible and the price to correspond. The canner may
book a lot of new business with a low price and mediocre quality but he
is not likely to hold it. Almost anyone would rather pay a cent a can
more and get better quality.
Microscopical Counts
The first operations in soup making are the same as in pulp. The same
care must be taken in sorting and washing the tomatoes, and the
government authorities put soup on the same basis as other tomato
products when it comes to microscopical analysis. The fact that soup
contains flour and butter makes the counting of yeasts, spores, and
bacteria under the microscope a difficult operation. The molds, however,
show up almost as well in soup as they do in pulp.
Beginning the Cook and Adding Soda
The tomatoes must be cycloned before they are converted into soup.
Crushed tomatoes will not do. The cycloned juice for each batch is
measured in the same manner as for catsup, and any of the types of
cooking kettles that are used for catsup are satisfactory for soup. For
a 100 gallon batch of finished soup, using the amount of flour I am
going to recommend, about 28 or 29 bushels of tomatoes will be required.
As soon as all of the tomato juice for the batch is boiling in the
cooking kettle the soda is added. The amount of bicarbonate of soda to
use depends upon whether the soup is being made from fresh tomatoes or
pulp, and if made from pulp the soda should be varied according to the
pulp’s acidity. It is nearly always necessary to use more soda in pulp
than in fresh tomatoes, and if the pulp is old goods which has lost much
of its sweetness, and in which the acid has been increased by the slow
but telling action of living bacteria, still more soda must be used.
For fresh tomatoes 18 to 20 oz. of soda is enough for a batch of 100
gallons when finished, but for pulp, as high as 30 oz. may be required.
If it takes more than this to reduce the acidity of the pulp to the
proper point, that pulp had better be used for some other purpose than
soup. There is a limit as to the amount of soda that can be added
without loss of tomato flavor.
The soda is added a little at a time while the pulp or tomato juice is
boiling. The cook must allow considerable room for effervescing, so that
the formation of the carbonic acid gas will not cause much of the
contents to be lost by flowing over the top of the kettle. Cutting the
foaming tomato juice with a sharp spray from the hose will help to keep
the effervescing mass down.
Butter, Spices and Onions
After the effervescence from the addition of the soda has stopped, the
butter, spice, and onion are added. Of course, the more butter that is
added the richer the soup will be, but the idea should be to give the
soup the butter flavor without adding so much that the cost will mount
up beyond a reasonable limit. I would suggest 6 or 7 lbs. of butter to
100 gallons of finished soup. The butter will so thoroughly distribute
itself during the boiling that every drop of the soup will contain
practically the same amount. It is not necessary to use a fancy print of
butter. If the butter is a little mottled, or the salt isn’t quite as
evenly incorporated in it as it should be it makes no difference, as the
butter fat and salt all become evenly distributed in the soup after
boiling for a minute or two. The butter, however, should be sweet and
clean. Rancid butter should not be used.
Soup should not be heavily spiced, as many people do not like highly
seasoned soups, and if it isn’t hot enough for some consumers they can
add as much pepper as they want to. So far as I know the spices most
commonly used are white pepper, paprika, cassia, mace, cloves, bay
leaves, and celery salt. Black pepper should not be used at it makes
black specks in the soup which are apt to be mistaken for dirt. About 7
oz. of white pepper to 100 gallons of finished soup will give it
sufficient spiciness. If paprika is used this can be cut down somewhat.
Cassia, mace or cloves are used in small amount, 1 oz. of either being
ample.
Pepper, cloves, and cassia are added at the beginning of the cooking and
mace is added just a few minutes before the flour. It is said that
celery salt gives tomato soup a very nice flavor but I have never tried
it. Some people like bay leaves, but I have tasted canned tomato soup
with a very decided bay leaf taste which I thought was about as poor as
any soup I have ever tasted.
The onions are chopped the same as for catsup, and 4 lbs. is about the
right amount for 100 gallons of soup.
Sugar and Salt
The sugar can be added at any time after the spices, butter, and onions,
but about 5 lbs. should be held back from the average amount being used,
figuring that we are cooking a 100 gallon batch, and after the sugar and
salt is in, the contents of the kettle should be tasted before the
balance of the sugar is added. It may be that the last 5 lbs. are not
needed, or it may be that all of it is needed and also an additional 5
lbs. For fresh tomatoes about 25 or 30 lbs. of sugar may be sufficient
for a 100 gallon batch, and for pulp it may be necessary to use as much
as 50 lbs. or even 60 lbs. in some cases.
After the condensation has continued until the boiling mass is of the
consistency of thin pulp the salt is added. The same grade of salt is
used as for catsup, and about 14 lbs. is the right amount. The sugar and
salt should be put in small containers or pails and scattered slowly
over the surface of the boiling pulp.
Testing Thickness Before Adding Flour
Now the contents of the kettle contain all of the ingredients except the
flour and the water which is mixed with the flour when it is added.
Before this flour mixture is added the contents of the kettle must be
condensed to a definite thickness. If this thickness is not measured
with a fair degree of accuracy the finished soup will either be so thick
that it will be lumpy in the can, even after shaking, or it will be so
thin that the housewife is apt to feel that she is getting cheated when
she pours the soup out of the can. The object to attain should be to
have the soup as thick as the consumer could reasonably expect, but at
the same time to have it of such consistency that it will pour out of
the can easily and smoothly. Nobody wants soup that will come out of the
can like a brick, but at the same time they expect condensed soup to be
reasonably thick.
I prefer to gauge the point at which it is time for the flour to be
added with a hydrometer. The use of the hydrometer here is subject to
the same precautions as were described under the testing of pulp, and it
is used in the same way. Whatever reading pulp of specific gravity 1.04
gives on the hydrometer you use, that is the reading you should take for
the point at which to add the flour mixture on soup. If you follow this
rule you will come out all right. We will say that pulp of the degree of
fineness you have reads twenty degrees on your hydrometer when it is at
a specific gravity of 1.04. Then twenty degrees on this hydrometer is
the point at which the flour mixture should be added on soup.
It might occur to you that it would be a good idea to use the specific
gravity test by weighing to determine the point at which to add the
flour. This would work all right if you used the same amount of sugar
all the time, but as varying quantities of sugar will vary the specific
gravity without materially varying the thickness of the pulp, using the
specific gravity test by weighing at this point is apt to throw you off.
This varying amount of sugar will have a slight effect on the hydrometer
reading also, but not enough to make an appreciable difference. What you
really want is to have your partially completed soup at a uniform
thickness before adding the flour, rather than at a uniform specific
gravity. Thickness and specific gravity do not always correspond. Tomato
fiber may be very thick and still have a rather low specific gravity,
and it may be thin and have a high specific gravity due to the fact that
it contains added sugar in solution. For determining the point which we
are trying to gauge, the hydrometer is much less apt to throw you off
the track than is a specific gravity test by weighing, as increasing
thickness will change the hydrometer reading very quickly but will only
alter the specific gravity slowly.
We will say that we have found out that 20 degrees on the hydrometer is
the proper point at which to add the flour mixture—that this degree of
thickness, with the added thickness produced by the flour mixture,
produces a soup, which when cold and well shaken, will be thick enough,
but will also pour out of the can easily and smoothly. We test the
boiling liquid several times; it runs 14 degrees, then after a few
minutes 18 degrees, then 20, and it is time to add the flour.
Adding Flour
The flour must be smoothly mixed with water in a flour mixer with sifter
attachment. For a 100 gallon batch of soup I would recommend 40 lbs. of
hard flour and 13 gallons of water. The hard flour seems to give the
best results. The water is placed in the bottom of the mixer and the
mixing attachments (paddles and sifter) set in motion either by a
separate motor or by a belt from a line of shaft. The flour is then
poured through the revolving sifter and is brushed through as a fine
powder, which the paddles slowly work into the water without allowing
lumps to form. When the total amount of flour is added to the water, and
the paddles have worked the mixture up smooth, the flour mixture is
added to the boiling contents of the kettle, either in pails or by means
of enamel lined pipe running from the mixer to the cooking kettles. The
contents of the kettle should be at a vigorous boil when the flour is
added, and the flour mixture should not be thrown in so fast that it
will kill the boil. During this process the boiling mass should be
stirred vigorously with a long paddle. After all the flour is in the
kettle the boil is continued for ten minutes, after which time the batch
of soup is done and ready to be let down into the finishing machine.
Filling and Processing
From the finisher it is conducted to a receiving tank, and thence to the
filling machine. A large volume of soup should not be kept ahead in the
receiving tank as it cools and may get somewhat lumpy. The hotter it is
canned, the better, and it should be placed in the process tanks
immediately after canning.
It is usually canned in No. 1, 16 oz., and No. 10 cans, and is filled
with a rotary filling machine of the type used for heavy liquids.
It may be processed either in straight process tanks or in a continuous
agitating pasteurizer. If the straight stationary tanks are used the
following time is given in boiling water: No. 1, 30 minutes; 16 oz., 40
minutes; No. 10, 1 hour. If a continuous agitating pasteurizer is used
this time can be cut down about 60%.
As soon as the processing is completed the cans should be gradually
cooled in cold water and left in the cold water until the outside has
cooled sufficiently to allow them to be handled easily. On account of
the flour it contains soup holds its heat a long time, and it should be
properly cooled before stacking away.
Shaking and Labeling
Before shaking and labeling it is wise to let the soup stand for about
ten days, both to give leaks a chance to show up, and to give the
contents of the can a chance to thoroughly “set.” If the soup is shaken
too soon after it is canned there is a possibility of it coagulating
again, but this will be avoided if the soup is allowed to stand long
enough before shaking—10 days being ample.
Before the soup is shaken it will be in a jelly-like mass, and if dumped
out of the can just as it is it will have this jelly-like appearance and
look lumpy. Shaking makes it smooth, and also makes it flow easily from
the can. The shaking should be thorough, and the type of shaking machine
that is used for canned corn answers the purpose better than anything.
Shaking by hand is very tedious and trying on the employee, and as a
rule hand shaking isn’t as thorough as it should be. The shaking is done
at the same time as the labeling, and from the shaker the cans pass
through the labeling machine without a second handling. The small sizes
are usually packed four dozen to the case, and the No. 10’s six cans to
the case.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
“TAG” INDICATING THERMOMETERS
[Illustration: Handled Top Thermometer]
[Illustration: Adjustable Connection Thermometer]
FOR TOMATO PULP BOILING, CATSUP KETTLES, SCALDING TANKS, PASTEURIZERS,
STERILIZERS, TANKS, VATS, Etc.
=have been especially designed= to meet the exacting requirements of
tomato product manufacturers and represent the ultimate perfection of
150 years of thermometer development and progress.
=Permanent accuracy is guaranteed= because each tube is “seasoned” to
prevent future false readings due to shrinkage of the glass.
=Actual temperature conditions= are reproduced similar to those which
the instrument will encounter in later use due to the “TAG” method of
“pointing” and making a special scale for each thermometer.
_Bulletin T–305 will provide further details of interest_
C. J. TAGLIABUE MFG. CO.
18–88 Thirty-third Street
Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration: Adjustable Clamp Hook]
[Illustration: Regular Angle Union Connection]
[Illustration: Wood Threaded Hub]
[Illustration: Straight Flange]
[Illustration: Pipe Threaded Hub]
[Illustration: Straight Form Fixed Connection]
[Illustration: Adjustable Clamp Flange]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration]
“TAG” Recording Thermometers
For Cookers, Scalders, Pasteurizers, Sterilizers, Vats, Tanks, Etc.
=are extremely accurate and reliable= because they have been designed
along sound and correct principles, also due to their simplicity of
construction.
=Uniformity of results is assured= because these instruments
faithfully record every temperature operation, day or night, thereby
promoting _efficiency_ and helpful competition among the workmen in
their efforts to produce praise-worthy charts.
=Made in both= full-nickeled bronze and japanned iron cases with
nickel ring, in 8, 10 and 12–inch sizes, with 12, 24–hour or seven day
charts.
_For further details write for Bulletin T–305_
C. J. TAGLIABUE MFG. CO.
18–88 Thirty-third St. Brooklyn, N. Y.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: “_The Reeves_”]
Variable Speed Transmission
is ideal for regulating the speed of your Tomato Sorting Belt. You can
get any speed even to a fraction of a revolution at any time by simply
turning a small hand wheel. It is so simple that even a child can
operate it and get variation as low as two to one or as high as ten to
one. It is admirably adapted for regulating not only the Tomato Sorting
Belt but Cappers, Fillers, Exhausters, Pea Blanchers, Viners or any kind
of vegetables or fruit packing machines where a variation of speed is
desired.
Write for Canner’s bulletin C–170 and see how other Canners have
profited by the use of “THE REEVES” Variable Speed Transmission.
REEVES PULLEY COMPANY
Columbus, Indiana
Members of
Wholesale Grocers’ Exchange. Chicago
National Pickle Packers’ Association
National Kraut Packers’ Association
National Canned Goods and Dried Fruit Brokers’ Association
C. J. Sutphen & Co.
Brokers and Manufacturers’ Agents
140 North Dearborn Street
CHICAGO
Pickles
Sauer Kraut
Tomato Products
Vinegar
Canned Goods
_Twenty-five Years’
Experience
Pickles and Condiments_
Jeffrey Canning Machinery
[Illustration:
The Jeffrey Binless Peeling Table. Absolutely Sanitary. Built in sizes
to accommodate 44 to 400 peelers.
]
_Includes a complete line of_
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Conveyers for handling all kinds of materials.
Chains—all types.
Power Transmission Machinery.
Sprockets—Buckets.
Write for Catalogues
The Jeffrey Manufacturing Co.
940 N. 4th Street Columbus, Ohio
[Illustration]
Pfaudler Cooking Kettle
For Tomato Pulp, Catsup, Chili Sauce, Tomato Soup, Etc.
This tank is 72 inches inside diameter, 72 inches deep and has a
capacity of 1,336 gallons. It is made in one piece of sheet steel
without any joints or crevices, and is lined with Pfaudler Glass
Enamel. It may be equipped with any standard coil.
The outside and bottom should be insulated with asbestos to prevent
loss of heat by radiation.
Quick cooking.
No burning.
Long lived.
Easily cleaned.
Always ready for use.
Prevents discoloration of the product due to metallic contamination.
_Lined with Pfaudler Glass Enamel_
New York
Chicago
San Francisco
Detroit
St. Louis
The Pfaudler Company
Rochester, New York
[Illustration]
Hot Tomato Pulp and Catsup
(For holding at predetermined temperature after cooking and while
awaiting bottling.)
=The Jacket= is connected with a small expansion tank and is thus kept
filled with water. Steam is passed into the coil in the jacket heating
this water. This method of heating has been found to give a close
control of temperature so that super-heating of the contents is avoided.
=The Brass Agitator= gives a slow, thorough mixing without violent
disturbance of the contents and thus avoids driving off the more
delicate aromatic flavors.
Lined with Pfaudler Glass Enamel
Can be had in different capacities from 150 gallons upwards.
New York
Chicago
San Francisco
Detroit
St. Louis
The Pfaudler Company
Rochester, N. Y.
[Illustration]
Cooking Kettle for Tomato Pulp
[Illustration: ELYRIA GLASS-ENAMELED EQUIPMENT]
“The Acme of Canning Apparatus”
ELYRIA GLASS ENAMEL—tough, elastic, a part of the fiber of the steel
itself—is the ideal equipment for the manufacture of tomato products.
The sanitary qualities of =glass= and its acid-resisting properties are
combined with the rugged wearing qualities of steel. Seams, rivets,
crevices for the lodgment of waste substances are eliminated, and the
smooth, hard, polished interior of the tank presents the finished
surface of a glass bowl and can be cleaned easily, quickly and
=absolutely=.
Send for our Special Bulletin of Canning Apparatus—it will prove
interesting and instructive
The Elyria Enameled Products Co.
Elyria, Ohio, U. S. A.
New York
Chicago
Pittsburgh
San Francisco
Los Angeles
Kelso Pulp and Catsup Finishing Machine
[Illustration]
A Machine adapted for making Tomato Pulp for Catsup and for finishing
Catsup and for preparing Fruit Products such as Apples, Plums, Prunes,
Strawberries, etc., for canning.
[Illustration]
Victoria Paring Machine
For Peeling =Onions=, Potatoes, Beets, Sweet Potatoes, Horse Radish
Roots, etc., in large quantities. Working Capacity 1 bushel per minute.
Saves 75% labor and 25% material.
Send for our Catalogue of Special Machinery and supplies for Cider and
Vinegar Manufacturers, Picklers, Canners, Preservers, Bottlers.
KELSO & COMPANY
559 W. Quincy St. Chicago, Ill.
World Can Labeler
[Illustration]
An up-to-the-minute machine, made by manufacturers of broad experience
in various kinds of labeling problems.
Quickly adjustable to different sizes.
Only one kind of gum needed.
No dripping of gum—no wasted labels.
Speedy and durable—mechanically correct.
_You should know all about it.
Send for particulars._
Economic Machinery Co.
Worcester, Mass.
Makers of the well-known World Labeler for bottles, jars, tumblers,
and other packages
[Illustration: SPRAGUE WORKS—THE HOME OF THE SIGN OF QUALITY]
Builders of Complete Equipment for Canning and Preserving Plants
The only manufacturers who are prepared to supply your requirements in
canning factory machinery, complete, in every detail, backed up by
thirty years of experience and a money back guarantee of satisfaction.
Sprague Canning Machinery Co.
General Offices: Chicago, Ill.
Factory: Hoopeston, Ill.
Eastern Branch:
Sheppard Supply & Equipment Co.
37 So. Charles St.,
Baltimore, Md.
Western Agents:
Premier Machinery Co.
16 California St.,
San Francisco, Cal.
[Illustration: “_Set It and Forget It_”]
=NO=
COMPRESSED AIR
SKILLED LABOR OR
COSTLY SPOILAGE
“=TAG=”
SELF-OPERATING
TEMPERATURE
CONTROLLERS
=Uniform processing=, an economic necessity in the manufacture of tomato
products, depends upon a _uniform_ temperature constantly maintained
within the cookers.
=Fluctuating temperatures=, common to _hand_ regulation of the steam
inlet valves, therefore, must be eliminated.
=A simple solution= is provided by installing “TAG” Self-Operating
Temperature Controllers—a device which requires _no compressed air_ and
is so simple to operate that all the workman need do is to “_set_” the
controller for the desired temperature and “_forget it_.”
=Pasteurizing=, =sterilizing=, etc., to an efficient degree can also
be easily accomplished with these anti-spoilage and self-paying
controllers.
_For further details ask for Bulletin T–386_
C. J. TAGLIABUE MFG. CO.
18–88 Thirty-third St., Brooklyn, N. Y.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
1. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.
2. Archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings retained as printed.
3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
4. Enclosed bold font in =equals=.