Flocks of pelicans and grey parrots—Arrive at Jugiong—A busy
scene—The harvest—Quails and Hawks—Mr. Hume’s farm—Domestic
life among the settlers—Miss my way in the forest—Mr. Reddal’s
farm—Disease called the Black Leg—Mr. Bradley’s residence at
Lansdowne Park—Drooping manna trees—Christmas festival—Mr.
F. M’Arthur’s farm—Aboriginal tribes—Native costume—Noisy
revelry—Wild ducks and pigeons—Spiders.
On leaving Darbylara, I proceeded to Jugiong by a different road from
that by which I came, keeping near the Murrumbidgee river during the
journey. Occasionally a flock of pelicans (“Guligalle” of the natives)
were seen: this species has black and white plumage; the back and upper
part of the wings being black, the remainder of the body white, with
the bill and legs of a yellowish colour. Black swans (“Guniock” of the
aborigines) were also seen; and among others of the “plumy tribe” that
enlivened the scenery, were flocks of grey parrots, and several other
species of the same tribe; the bell-bird, razor-grinder, and coach-whip
birds, were also occasionally seen or heard; the latter well named from
its peculiar note, which accurately resembles the cracking of a whip. In
the vicinity of this noble stream the scenery was beautiful; rich and
luxuriant pasturage abounded, and the country had a cheerful and animated
appearance. The river, during its course, occasionally forms pretty
cascades, by falling over huge rocks that oppose its current.
After riding four miles, a station belonging to Mr. Kennedy, called
Kurongullen, gullen, was seen on the opposite side of the river; about a
mile further distant, Mr. Lupton’s station of Guberolong was passed; and
a further ride of eight miles, through a fertile picturesque country,
brought me to Bulbábuck, a station the property of Mr. Henry O’Brien,
where the men were busily occupied in cutting some fine fields of
wheat. In the evening I reached Jugiong, and on the following day (10th
December) arrived at Yas Plains.
This was the busy season with the settlers, being both the wool and
grain harvest. Shearing had commenced some time before; but many who had
numerous flocks were still engaged in that profitable occupation; the
packing, sorting, screwing, and sewing in bales, occupying much time;
wool being the staple article of the colony, and forming the principal
riches of the settler. It is interesting for a stranger visiting the
country at this period to view the processes of washing and shearing the
animals—sorting, pressing, and packing the wool;—to often hear the terms
of short and long staple wool, and to see the specimens of it arranged in
small locks, showing the different degrees of fineness. If the shearing
season is deferred, various grass seeds get into the wool, particularly
those of the _Anthisteria Australis_, or kangaroo grass, one of the most
abundant perhaps of the native grasses, frequently not only injuring
the fleece, but, aided by its awns, penetrating even to the skin of the
sheep. The Australian climate is admirably calculated for wool growing;
the improvement of the fleeces during the late years, and the assorting
of the wool by competent persons educated for the purpose in Germany,
have produced for it so high a character in the London market, that the
quantity exported from the colony is now great, and annually increasing:
many of the settlers sell their wool to buyers in the colony, who
speculate upon it, while others send it direct to agents in England.
The golden harvest also increases the business of the settler, usually
occurring at the same time with the wool season, and the fields of grain
around the scattered habitations render the scenery extremely rich.
The prospect of the harvest this season was favourable both for its
abundance and quality, although in some crops smut prevailed, the most
were entirely free from it. It is a curious circumstance that self-sown
wheat never smuts; that early sown is said to have little or none, and
the wheat never smuts but when in blossom. I saw at one farm an ear of
wheat from one of the fields, one side of which bore fine, healthy, and
full grains, whilst the opposite side was entirely destroyed by smut.
Wheat appears to suffer most. At one of the stations in the Tumat country
the wheat suffered from smut, whilst barley and rye were perfectly free
from it; and finer crops of the latter grain had never been seen. There
are, I understand, many kinds of wheat that never suffer from smut in
the colony; why are they not then sown in preference? The plan of trying
different kinds of wheat and other grain, from various parts of the
world, is worthy of attention, and would no doubt eventually confer much
benefit, and add to the resources of the colony. There is a grain which
the settlers have lately commenced to cultivate, called the “skinless
oat,” said to be brought from China, that yields greater returns than the
usually cultivated kind.
On riding through plains, &c. a number of quails are usually started by
the dogs, and numerous eagle hawks, (Mollien of the natives,) and others
of the same rapacious tribe, hover about for the purpose of darting upon
the unfortunate quails when started; these hawks will also destroy and
feed upon snakes, lizards, &c.
On the 23d of December I left Yas Plains for Sydney; in the evening I
arrived at “Lomebraes,” or “Willowdalong,” the farm of Mr. John Hume,
after a journey of twenty-two miles. This farm is situated close to a
river, which I was surprised to find was the “Lachlan.” At this season
it was merely a chain of shallow ponds, abounding with weeds, and even
in the winter season, from the extent of the banks, it cannot attain
any magnitude; probably by aid of tributary streams, it may in its
course become a river of more importance. About this country the heat of
the summer had not been so great as to parch up the land, which still
maintained its verdure; but the utter want of variety in several parts of
the colony, produces a tedious vacuity in the mind of the traveller when
journeying over it.
A pleasing object in domestic life among the settlers was the number
of healthy, blooming children seen on the farms in the interior; their
little plump forms, with the prevailing flaxen hair, cheerful and lively
disposition, and rosy countenances, sufficiently indicated that bush fare
did not disagree with them: living in the midst of excellent milk, and
other wholesome food, with exercise, they are never cloyed by the trash
usually given to children in large towns. Sickness is also rarer among
the servants, from an inability to become inebriated; but tobacco is
quite a necessary of life among them; few can undergo any labour without
it, and many have told me that they would rather give up their rations
than be deprived of tobacco; consequently no gift is more acceptable in
the bush to a servant, for any assistance he may render to the traveller,
than a present of tobacco, for money in the distant parts of the colony,
is comparatively useless, and they care little or nothing about it.
On leaving “Lomebraes,” the morning following, I proceeded some distance
on my journey, when thinking I could reach “Mut, mut, billy,” sooner
by taking a nearer cut across the bush, I followed cattle-paths, until
I missed my way; no trifle in the bush of New South Wales, where many,
having lost themselves in the mazes of a forest, have perished. However,
after _chancing_ the direction, I came to a settler’s hut, about three
or four miles distant from Mr. Reddal’s farm, at Mut, mut, billy; I made
inquiry of a man and woman, who were at that time busily engaged in
opening a cow in the stock-yard, whether I was in the right road; after
answering my inquiry in the affirmative, the man asked me if I had ever
seen the disease called the “black leg,” which prevailed so much, and was
still prevailing to some extent among the cattle in the colony, informing
me that the cow had died of the disease, the first instance of it in this
part of the country.
I felt gratified at having an opportunity of examining a case of this
disease, of which I had only previously heard an account; so alighting, I
entered the stock-yard, and examined the dead animal. Every part of the
internal viscera was in a perfectly healthy condition, the stomach was
distended with food, and there was nothing in the internal appearances
exhibited to account for the death of the animal; but upon the thigh of
the left hind leg, I perceived a swelling, and on the skin being laid
back from it, an extent of dark extravasated blood was seen, and there
was a similar state of extravasation upon one side of the neck: cutting
through the fascia, the whole of the muscles, which had the appearances
just mentioned, were found saturated with black blood, even to the bone.
I can make no better comparison of its appearance than by saying it
seemed as if those parts of the body had been severely beaten or mashed.
The animal I examined was a young cow; (the disease is said to attack
principally the yearlings among cattle;) she had been perfectly well the
preceding evening, but was found dead early in the morning; from the
stomach being found distended with food, it could not have been long ill
previous to its death. On arriving at the farm of Mut, mut, billy, I
mentioned the circumstance to the overseer; he was alarmed at the disease
having occurred so near, and expressed a fear of his cattle becoming
attacked, as the disease was considered contagious; he asserted that
none of his cattle had ever yet been affected, although he had heard of
numbers dying in other districts from the disease.
It was a few days after this, when staying at Goulburn Plains, that a
gentleman arrived, who mentioned his having seen a case of the disease
denominated the “black leg,” in the stock-yard of the farm at Mut,
mut, billy, that morning, so from this circumstance the fears of the
overseer, respecting the extension of the disease, were unfortunately
realized. The Irish assigned servants upon the estates where the disease
has occurred, mention that it is not uncommon in Ireland, and is there
considered contagious.[122] The mode of treatment adopted for its cure in
that country is to bleed and rowel the cattle, and change the pasturage:
it has been asserted that it was unknown in the colony until within
the last twelvemonth; but some declare that it has existed, although
not extensively, for a much longer period. Dr. Gibson informed me that
the disease prevails principally among calves and yearlings, the first
marked symptoms being a paralytic affection, the animal drawing the
leg after it; a swelling and tenderness are then experienced about the
affected parts, and usually a fatal termination ensues in twelve hours;
bleeding relieves, and even has been known to cure cattle thus affected,
if resorted to in time; but from the rapid progress of the disease, and
among a large number of cattle, it is seldom observed until too late.
On the 24th of December I arrived at Lansdowne Park, (or, in the language
of the country, “Bungee.”) Goulburn Plains, the residence of Mr.
Bradley; and although the days previous had been sultry and oppressive,
this was so cold as to make it agreeable to see a large wood-fire blazing
on the parlour hearth, giving the close of day the appearance of a
Christmas-eve at home, although in this country it was the height of the
summer season; but such atmospherical changes occasionally take place in
the colony.
The elegant drooping manna-trees (_Eucalyptus mannifera_) were numerous,
and at this season secreted the peculiar saccharine mucilaginous
substance called _manna_, which, in greater or less quantities, was
lying upon the ground beneath them, or upon their leaves, trunks, and
branches, in small white flakes, resembling bits of starch. The taste
of this secretion is sweet and mucilaginous, having a greater or less
aperient effect on different individuals; it is quite a sweetmeat, and
seems to consist of mucilage, sugar, and probably some magnesia: although
it readily acts as an aperient on some persons, upon others it produces
no effect; it does not dissolve in the sun, but, on the contrary, becomes
dryer and of harder consistence, by exposure; rain dissolves it, but
more secretion of it takes place after wet than during a continuance of
dry weather. Many of the colonists supposed the manna was secreted from
the leaves of the tree, but from the foliage having a strong camphorated
taste and odour, which the manna has not in the slightest degree, it was
not probable; others again supposed it to proceed from the nectaries of
the flowers, which are white, growing in clusters, and give to the tree a
beautiful appearance when in bloom, attracting multitudes of parroquets.
This tree, similar to the other _Eucalypti_, secretes a red gum, both
spontaneously and in larger quantities, on incisions being made on the
trunk. Birds and several insects feed upon the manna; among others the
“Galang, galang,” as they are named in the language of the country, the
“locust” of the colonists, of which insects, as I have before said, the
aborigines declare it to be the excrement.
The tree is called in the aboriginal language “Bartoman,” and the manna
is named “Cú ningaban;” it is collected and eaten by the natives. The
growth of the tree, when young, is graceful and elegant; the bark is
covered with a whitish powder, which readily rubs off upon the fingers,
and the bark underneath is of a greyish colour; the bark of the “white
gum” (_Eucalyptus species_) resembles this tree, but may be distinguished
by not having a black butt like the manna-tree. On examining the tree to
ascertain positively from what part of it the manna was secreted, I found
in several that the manna exuded in a liquid form in minute drops from
the bark, and then concreted; on some it had oozed out and had concreted
upon the trunk in large thin flakes; it exuded about the consistence
of syrup, and in taste was sweet; when secreted from the branches it
falls from those above, upon the leaves, &c. of others beneath, and upon
the ground, where, during a plentiful season, a large quantity may be
collected.
The rain that had fallen the day previous to my examination of these
trees, and the heat of the sun causing a quantity of manna to exude from
them, its mode of secretion could be more readily distinguished. It is
usually secreted about the commencement of December; but it depends on
the weather whether the secretion is in greater or less quantity: this
season it was abundant.
The manna trees had commenced during the latter part of December, to
throw off their outer bark; their trunks, therefore, had a ragged
appearance, and the ground underneath was strewed with dried crisped
pieces which had fallen off, leaving a smooth and handsome new bark
in their place. The black cockatoos (“Womberong,” and “Bulowla”) were
occasionally seen in numbers, feeding upon the ripe cones of the
_Banksia_, or “honeysuckles;”[123] and the smaller chattering parroquets
were flying about, in hundreds, and revelling among the _Eucalypti_
trees, which were now in flower; and, like to the humming-birds, they
were extracting honey from the nectaries of the blossoms. On examining
one that had been shot, the beak was covered, and the mouth filled,
with honey, possessing the peculiar camphorated smell of the leaves and
flowers of the tree, mingled with stamina; the stomach was filled with
a dark, thick honey, among which some quantity of the stamina of the
Eucalyptic flowers were mingled. The Blue Mountain parrot also sips the
nectar from the flowers, as well as from peaches, &c. The natives, when
they kill any of these birds, suck their beaks to extract the honey with
which the mouth is usually filled, and also recover that collected in the
stomach.
The aborigines were now collecting about the farms in expectation of a
feast at the ensuing Christmas festival. I went up to one who was busily
engaged in making an opossum-skin cloak: he sewed the skins together with
the fibres of the bark of the “Stringy Bark” tree for thread, by first
perforating holes in it with a sharp piece of bone, and then passing the
thread through the holes as he proceeded. I asked him some questions, and
then gave him a piece of tobacco: he asked for two piece tobacco, because
“I merry busy, and you ask me much,” said blackee.
I visited “Northwood,” (distant about six miles from the Plains,) the
neat farm of Mr. Francis M’Arthur, and afterwards rode across the plains
to Dr. Gibson’s farm, at Taranna, which is situated near the “Soldier’s
Flat;” this latter place consists of several small farms, of about a
hundred acres each, which were granted by government to the discharged
veterans. There were small bark huts erected upon the grants, and several
ripe fields of grain and vegetable gardens about them.
The numerals among the aboriginal tribes of Goulburn Plains are as
follows. One, Metong;—Two, Bulla;—Three, Bulla, metong;—Plenty, Nerang
and Gorong.
Christmas Day is regarded as a festival by the blacks who live near the
habitations of the white men, it being customary at this period for the
settlers to distribute among them provisions and spirits, with which
they contrive to render themselves _perfectly happy_. Several tribes
had formed their encampment on and about the Plains, for the occasion,
their huts had been speedily erected, by collecting the branches of
trees, and lying over them sheets of bark, so placed as to form a shelter
to windward; the fire being made in front. Some appeared in “native
costume,” with an extra daub of red ochre, and the “bolombine” round
the head; others wore tufts of the yellow crest of the white cockatoo,
pending from their beards; but there were some who approximated to
civilized society in dress, being arrayed in shirt, trowsers, and
handkerchief;—and when thus cleanly “rigged out” in European finery,
their personal appearance was not unprepossessing,—not that I mean to say
they will bear away the palm for personal beauty.
Some of the “black fellers” had merely a jacket, others only a shirt: the
garments, however, were merely put on for the occasion, to be soon after
laid aside, as they find clothing materially obstruct them when engaged
in hunting or other expeditions. The putting on the European garments
serves merely to gratify their vanity, making them look “like white
feller,” as they express it. Having observed, to one who petitioned me
for a pair of “inexpressibles,” to look “like white feller,” that his
father did not wear breeches; he replied, “My fadder no see white feller
trowsers—_if make a light_ (see) make get; but no white feller sit down
this place when my fadder here.”
The “ladies” are conspicuous principally for their head gear; glowing in
grease and red ochre, the ringlets of these “dark angels” were decorated
with opossum tails, the extremities of other animals, and the incisor
teeth of the kangaroo; some had the “Cambun” (“Bolombine” of the Tumat
country,) or fillet daubed with pipe-clay bound round the forehead: this
ornament is sometimes made from the stringy bark tree, as well as from
the tendons of the kangaroo’s tail: lateral lines of pipe-clay ornamented
the upper part of their faces, breast, and arms. Both men and women have
raised cicatrices over the breast, arms, and back; but the forms of these
personal decorations are various. They regarded with a degree of awe, a
keyed bugle, with which a gentleman amused himself at this place: they
called it the _Cobbong (large) whistle_; and were more pleased with the
slow airs played upon it, than those of a lively and quick movement.
On the evening of Christmas Day we adjourned to the verandah: the scene
was beautiful; the heavy clouds, which had previously obscured the
heavens, had passed away: the sun, about to set, cast a red glow over the
beautiful scenery of fields of golden grain; numerous herds of cattle and
flocks of sheep scattered over different parts of the extensive plains;
the elegant, drooping, young manna trees, and the sombre foliage of the
_Banksia_, or honeysuckle; the picturesque wooded hills, with declivities
covered with verdure to the plains beneath, and the farthest view
terminated by distant mountains, formed a splendid prospect.
My attention was recalled from the enjoyment of this tranquil scene, by
the noisy revelry of the blacks, whose approaches towards civilization
were manifested by their getting intoxicated. The camp was now one
scene of tumult and confusion: the huts, of a weak and temporary
construction, were thrown down; the men, inebriated with “_bull_,”
were chasing the women and children with sticks, who scampered away to
escape the punishment awarded to their mockery: numerous curses, in
English, proceeded from the lips of the inebriated blacks, being terms
more expressive than any their limited language could afford. As the men
swore, the women screamed and talked incessantly.
One of them came to me the following morning, and said, “You ought give
black feller milliken, (milk,) bullock, and sheep, for white feller
come up here, drive away opossum and kangaroo, and poor black feller
get noting to patta (eat,) merry, merry, get hungry,”—a very true tale,
thought I.
Kangaroo rats, called in the native language “Kánaman,” were numerous
about this place; they are lively playful little animals, and when in
confinement will drink milk and eat manna with avidity; their fur is as
fine as that of the larger species of kangaroo. It is said to be found
abundantly about the “Stringy Bark” ranges, forming rude nests of the
fibrous bark. At a beautiful spot on the Wollondilly, not far distant
from the plains, and at a part of the river forming even at this, the
summer season, a fine sheet of water, called “Karoa” by the natives,[124]
the “Burriol,” or musk ducks, with their young, the “Gunarung,” or
wood-ducks, as well as other kinds of waterfowl, were seen in great
numbers; and occasionally, about the marshes, the native companion, or
Curaduck of the aborigines.
During this short excursion, a young black was stung by a wasp, and
although he no doubt suffered severe pain, he yet disdained to utter a
cry or a groan; he threw himself upon the ground, and rolled about, but
no sound escaped his lips.
The bronzed-winged pigeon, the “Obungalong” in the aboriginal language,
was abundant at this season. It constructs, like the pigeon tribe
generally, a rude nest of sticks upon the forked branches of a tree, and
lays two or more white eggs.
There is a spider which I frequently observed about Yas Plains, and
also at other parts of the colony, which forms a den in the ground; the
opening is about an inch in diameter; over this a lid is formed of web,
incorporated with earth, and a web hinge, accurately filling the external
aperture, which the animal can shut at pleasure. I have heard of a person
who was accustomed to feed one of these insects; after feeding, it would
enter the habitation, and shut down the lid, by drawing it close with one
of its claws. It is nearly impossible to discover their habitations when
the lid is closed, from its being so accurately fitted to the aperture.