Leave Yas Plains for Sydney—Mr. Shelly’s farm—Splendid new
road—Mr. Barber’s farm—Shoalhaven gullies—Interesting spot—Mr.
Campbell’s farm—Journey resumed—Settlement of Bong, Bong—Bargo
Brush—Profusion of flowering shrubs—View from the summit of
Mount Prudhoe—The cow pasture road—Farms of Mr. M’Arthur, and
Captain Coghill—Flowers—The white cedar—Government hospital at
Liverpool.
On the 13th of October, I left Yas Plains on my return to Sydney,[70]
retracing my route by Gonnong, Mut, mut, billy, I arrived at Goulburn
Plains on the 14th. Resuming my journey on the following morning,
accompanied by some friends, they carried me a different route from
that by which I arrived at the plains: the road led over a rather hilly
but open forest and good pasture land, and, travelling a distance of
fifteen miles, (when close brush asserted its triumph over the former
fine country,) we arrived at Mr. Shelly’s farm on the “Grampian Hills.”
Proceeding six miles beyond, we crossed the splendid new road, forming a
portion of the great southern line: it was wide, yet unbeaten; a dense
forest bounding it on either side as far as the eye could reach, the
felled trees being placed along, to point out the breadth of the road.
This did not appear requisite, as the thick forest sufficiently indicated
it.
At a short distance further on, we turned off the more direct road, and
arrived at Mr. Barber’s farm, close to which commences the extraordinary
and extensive fissure, called the “Shoalhaven Gullies,” extending through
a large tract of country to the sea coast. This farm possesses natural
beauties of a sublime and romantic character; but the soil is principally
rocky, and does not seem to possess the valuable requisites to a settler,
that of arable land and good sheep pasturage, in any quantity. To a
visitor, however, the romantic beauties of the Gullies are sufficient
objects of attraction; and, accompanied by Mr. Hume, senior, I was taken,
at a very short distance from the house, to as splendid a scene as has
been perhaps yet discovered in this interesting and peculiar country.
I much regret that time did not permit me to make a closer examination
of these gullies, which appear to owe their existence to some sudden
convulsion of nature that had violently rent the hills asunder; down
the steep sides, a dense vegetation concealed their depth, although
the eye could reach, unimpeded, sufficiently deep to enable some idea
to be formed of the profoundness of these chasms. The largest and most
extensive gully, said to possess the most beautiful scenery, was five
miles distant.
The Shoalhaven river, which runs beneath, was not visible, although its
murmuring, broken torrent could be heard. The wooded hills, varying in
denseness, some trees overhanging the abyss, still further increased
the sublimity of the scene; and occasionally in the evenings, a small
species of kangaroo, called “rock kangaroo” by the colonists, was seen
skipping about the hills. To a geologist, the examination of these
localities would be highly interesting, as there are several caverns, in
their limestone formations, with indications of fossil remains. Highly
gratified by the view, I departed; and after leaving this farm, crossed
a small, insignificant rivulet: this was the river (or, according to the
colonial vocabulary, “creek”) which empties itself into the Shoalhaven
Gullies; and its first fall into them was at no further distance than a
hundred rods from this place. The first fall is from a height of perhaps
sixteen feet; and there are several falls, altogether of about eighty
feet, until the stream reaches the first gully; when in its progress,
it receives tributary streams from the westward, forming the Shoalhaven
river, which flows through these romantic glens, until it terminates by
discharging its waters into the sea.
Our journey continued through a dull, uninteresting country; and late in
the evening we arrived at “Wingelo,” the farm of Robert Campbell, Esq.,
by whom we were received with the kindest hospitality, and remained the
night, after travelling rather more than twenty miles this day.
The next morning found us again “en route” over a good road; but gloomy
forests and brush produced a dull scenery,[71] until, as we progressed,
it became enlivened by the gay blossoms of _Acacias_, _Patersonia_,
_Daviesia_, _Pimelea_; the long spikes of the grass-tree, with tufts of
white flowers; and a few small and elegant trees of the _Eucalyptus
corymbosa_, which were profusely covered with clusters of snowy blossoms.
The large forest trees in this country have very small roots in
proportion to their size and elevation, so much so as to excite surprise
how they are capable of standing against the severe gusts of wind to
which they are frequently exposed; and yet for trees to be uprooted by
that cause is comparatively rare,—showing that nature is always correct
in her work, however it may at first appear to our judgment.
On approaching the settlement of “Bong, Bong,” the wild forest had, in
most places, given way to a cleared, cultivated, and beautiful country,
forming a strong contrast to the gloomy bush we passed not long before.
The vivid green of the fields of grain, in ear, but not yet mature, gave
promise of a plentiful harvest; and clumps of trees, scattered about
the pastures, sufficient to shelter the cattle from the parching heats
of summer, added to the pleasing character of the scenery. The neat
cottages, to which barns, stables, &c. were attached, sprinkled over
the landscape; the distant wooded hills; and smiling fields, animated
by cattle,—could not fail of exciting pleasurable sensations, and a
favourable impression of this “land of promise,” sufficient to banish
the disappointment which the dulness of many of the wild parts of the
country is too apt to produce.
Numerous small farms, with fields of grain, pasturage land, abounding
in cattle, horses, and sheep; neatly fenced paddocks, (for hedges
are unknown,) continued more or less from this, which is called the
settlement, to the township of “Bong, Bong,” a distance of five or six
miles. At one of the farms we passed, the overseer did not appear to have
yet received much benefit from the “march of intellect;” for on a board
the following notice appeared:—_No Thorrofaer Hear_.
Arriving at the Argyle Inn, in the township of “Bong, Bong,” we thence
proceeded, after remaining sufficient time to refresh ourselves and
horses, intending to continue the night at “Mittagong,” ten miles further
on. The weather was fine, but sultry; roads dusty, scenery dull and
uninteresting, until descending to the valley in which the “Kangaroo or
Cutter’s Inn” is situated, (after ascending the Mittagong range,) it
was an agreeable change to behold a prospect of cleared and cultivated
land, surrounded by dense forests, and ranges of densely-wooded hills in
the distance. There was a quantity of land under cultivation for grain,
pasturage, &c., animated by herds of cattle and flocks of sheep; and a
windmill, made an excellent addition to the landscape. Neat cottages,
with gardens, were scattered about; and, as it was near sunset at the
time we arrived, the scene was still further increased in beauty. We soon
reached the neat and comfortable inn, to which an excellent garden is
attached, well stocked with rose trees, in full bloom, pinks, and other
European flowering plants, as well as a number of European fruit trees;
many of which, at this time, were profusely covered with snowy blossoms.
At dawn the next day, we were again on our journey: the morning proved
delightfully cool and agreeable, and nature seemed refreshed by the night
dews. A grateful fragrance emanated from the plants and shrubs around,
and the birds, by their carolling, seemed to enjoy the cool atmosphere.
The remainder of the “Mittagong range” was passed over, and a rugged road
led through “Bargo Brush,” which is a dense forest, small portions only
being occasionally seen cleared, on which a farm or inn is established.
Adjoining, was usually a garden and land under cultivation. Although, for
the most part, the dense and sombre forest prevailed, yet often the soil
beneath was spread with a great number as well as variety of gay and
beautiful flowering shrubs, and plants; among the most numerous of those
at this time, in full bloom, were _Gnaphalium_, _Crowea_, _Bossiea_,
_Pomaderris_, _Patersonia_, _Persoonia_, _Daviesia_, _Banksia_, _Hakea_,
_Xylomelum_, _Pimelea_, &c. &c.
The new line of road we entered upon, was broad, straight, and in
excellent condition. After travelling thirteen miles, we arrived at
“Lupton’s Inn,” and did not find early rising, with a long morning’s
ride, injuriously affect our appetites. Having breakfasted, we again
proceeded over an excellent road, along which were neat houses, with
gardens gay with the profusion of flowers, cleared patches of land under
cultivation with grain, or forest land, animated by flowers; among them
a beautiful _Clematis_ was conspicuous, covering the bushes with a
profusion of white blossoms, or pendent in graceful festoons from the
dead trunk of a tree. Having crossed the “Bargo River,” an inconsiderable
stream, and passed “Myrtle Creek,” which has several pretty farms about
it, we reached “Stonequarry Creek,” which at this time was in a dangerous
state for vehicles, more particularly for heavily laden drays, the road
being much out of repair. There are several farms about this place, and
some quantity of land under cultivation for grain.[72]
We passed the new line of road over the “Razor-back Mountain,” which was
in an unfinished state; and, at first, some doubt existed whether this
line would be completed, or another adopted; but it has been decided to
finish it; for which purpose, road gangs were about to be employed upon
it. On attaining the summit of Mount Prudhoe, an extensive and beautiful
panoramic view of Appin, the Cowpastures, farms, together with cultivated
and forest lands, &c. was laid before us in one extensive landscape. We
descended by an excellent road, passed through “Camden,” the property of
J. M’Arthur, Esq., came upon the Cowpasture road, crossing the Nepean
river by a good wooden bridge, and arrived at Raby farm in the afternoon,
after a long ride of forty-three miles. After occupying a few days in
this vicinity, I proceeded to Sydney.
During my stay at the Cowpastures, I visited the fine farm at Kirkham,
the residence of Captain Coghill, and his amiable family: this farm is
valuable, consisting principally of rich arable land; the Nepean river
also running by the estate, is a valuable acquisition for sheep-washing,
&c. The summer was more advanced at this part of the country than further
in the interior. Strawberries and cream was not an uncommon dish, and
the fruit was very abundant this season. Green peas were also in large
quantities, and the gardens bloomed with English, and the more delicate,
but evanescent China varieties of roses, and in such profusion, that
one might have died of “roses in aromatic pain.” Pinks, stocks, and
other European flowers, caused the atmosphere to teem with fragrance,
and charmed the eye. At some farms, the beautiful rose-tree, covered
with its carnation-tinted blossoms, adorned the verandahs; the white and
pink _Robinia_ was attractive from the exquisite beauty imparted by its
pendulous clusters of blossoms and the ornamental growth of the tree.
But another, combining beauty of growth with fragrant flowers, must not
be omitted: it is the “white cedar” of the colony, and is indigenous to
this country, as well as most parts of India: it is the _Melia azedarach_
of botanists. The tree is deciduous, and was now covered by pendulous
clusters of lilac-coloured blossoms, adding to the beauty and fragrance
of the gardens, its lilac blossoms being elegantly contrasted by the dark
green glossy foliage: the fragrance of the flowers so closely resembles
those produced by the tree known in England as the “lilac,” that the same
appellation is given to it in this colony. In the evenings, and night
more especially, this tree may be known to exist in the vicinity by the
powerful fragrance it emits for some distance.[73] The sweetbriar and
quince is often used about the farms as hedges for gardens, &c., and the
appearance they give is extremely neat; the fragrance of the former is
very agreeable. The Cape and English mulberry trees thrive well in the
colony; the former is said to bear fruit two or three times annually, the
latter only once.
In my way to Sydney, I availed myself of the kindness of Dr. Hill, the
colonial surgeon, to visit the government hospital at Liverpool; it is
the finest in the colony, but in my opinion of too large and expensive
construction for the purpose required. The wards were spacious, well
ventilated, and in excellent order, such indeed as might be creditable
to any of our metropolitan hospitals. The patients receive every
attention and comfort that their situation may require.[74] There are
sometimes one hundred and fifty in the hospital, but the wards are
capable of containing more. When it is considered that patients come
to this hospital from a distance of two hundred miles, (that is, from
the Murrumbidgee country, and even beyond,) including a large extent
of district, a large building may have been thought requisite; but the
more convenient and less expensive method would have been, to have built
two hospitals of moderate size, one at Goulburn Plains, and the other
at Liverpool; for it was a sad mistake to compel an invalid to travel
a distance of two hundred miles for medical assistance; and affords a
facility for many to feign sickness, that they might have a journey down
the country to see their friends, causing much inconvenience to the
settler, who has no other means of ascertaining the man’s complaint, but
by taking him to this distant hospital.
The scheming of the assigned servants is very annoying to the settler:
the men often feign sickness, to be revenged upon their masters: several
instances of this kind I have seen at a distance of one hundred and
eighty-six, and two hundred miles from Liverpool. When requested, during
my visit to the interior, to see these men, some were ill, but unable to
undergo the fatigue of travelling so far to the hospital; others suddenly
got well, and went to their work, when medical assistance was so near
them: one boasted, that by methods known to himself he could produce
appearances of disease so as to deceive any medical practitioner; he had
but just returned from the Liverpool hospital, and was always ill, his
master informed me, during the most busy times. The establishment of an
hospital at Goulburn Plains would obviate most of this just cause of
complaint made by the settler.[75]
There is a lunatic asylum at Liverpool, which I also inspected: there
were several patients of both sexes within its walls. The establishment
was small, and the building did not appear to have been originally
constructed for the purpose for which it was used.