Bredalbane Plains—Forest country—Cockatoos and parrots—Peculiar
species of the lizard tribe—Medicinal trees—Bark of the wattle
trees—Mr. Manton’s farm—Picturesque view—Yas plains—Encampment
of natives—Stringy bark, or box tree—Use of that plant—Native
method of cooking—The Australian negro—Game—The flying
squirrel—Human chimney ornaments—Cloaks of opossum or kangaroo
skins—Barbarous ceremonies—Women not admitted to the confidence
of the males.
On the 3rd of October we resumed our journey, taking a bush path for a
short distance, until we emerged upon “_Bredalbane Plains_,” a great
portion of which is very swampy, and during heavy rains overflown.
Passing a cattle station, the property of Mr. Chisholm, we had a view
of another plain, or more correctly marsh, (named the third Bredalbane
Plain,) abounding in reeds; here several birds of the heron species,
known by the name of the “native companion,” (_Ardea antigone_,) were
pacing about, in search of food, but rising with heavy flight on being
disturbed. After an agreeable ride of fourteen miles, we arrived at
“_Mut, mut billy_,” the farm of Mr. Reddal; here we remained for the
night.[60]
Proceeding on our journey the following morning, we passed an interesting
open forest country, possessing some good land for cultivation, and
abundance of fine herbage for grazing. Many of the situations appeared
too damp for sheep, but all, even to the mountain ranges, had fine
feeding for cattle. About noon we arrived at “_Gonnong_,” a cattle
station belonging to Mr. Kennedy, of Appin. Our route continued through a
still beautiful country, abounding in fine herbage, and for the most part
an open forest of much picturesque beauty; blocks of granite, grouped in
various forms and of all dimensions, appeared elevating themselves above
the land, crowning the summits of the hills, or protruding through the
declivities.
Black and white cockatoos, (_Psittacus funereus_, Lath. and _P.
galeritus_ Temm.,) with an infinite variety of the parrot tribe, such
as ground parrots, (_Psittacus formosus_, Lath.) loris, (_Psittacus
eximius_, Shaw.) &c., enlivened the scene, for even their discordant
screams are cheering in the depths of an Australian solitude; among them
also the “Rosehill parrot,” which, for beauty, variety, and harmony
of colours, is not to be equalled by any of the other species, was
abundant; I picked up one of this species lying dead on the road, still
warm, in full and beautiful plumage, and without any external wound to
account for its death. The more gentle “Bronze-winged pigeons” (_Columba
chalcoptera_) were also very numerous, alighting on the road to pick up
food, unmindful of the near approach of the horses. The plumage of this
bird varies from a beautiful fawn colour to a dark brown, with several
brown feathers near the bases of the wings, from which cause it derives
its colonial appellation. Numerous magpies, crows, and the smaller
variety of birds of gay plumage, also crossed our path, exciting the
admiration and attention of the traveller.
A peculiar, and, I believe, undescribed species of the lizard tribe, of
a black colour and repulsive appearance, but perfectly harmless, was
occasionally seen; the tail is very short in proportion to the length
of the body, having the appearance of a portion of it being accidentally
broken off, but on examination it is found to be the natural formation;
they crossed the road before us, moving very slow, and did not display
any signs of timidity at our presence. This species is said to be eaten
by the aborigines.
After passing the Gap,[61] or opening in the mountain range, through
which the road to Yas Plains leads, we continued for a few miles through
a still interesting country. About this place several of the varieties
or species of _Eucalyptus_, which have opposite leaves of a bluish green
colour, their surface being sprinkled thinly with a whitish powder, were
very abundant; it is from their foliage that the largest quantity of the
camphorated oil, which so closely resembles the _Caju puti_, is produced.
Some contain it in such abundance as to cover the hand with oil, when one
of the leaves is gently rubbed against it. I am informed that the oil has
been extracted in the colony for medicinal purposes, and, I believe, will
be found possessed of similar properties to the _Caju puti_, so highly
esteemed in arthrodial rheumatism as an embrocation. The oil known by the
name of Caju puti[62] oil is produced from the leaves of a tree of the
_Melaleuca_ genus, of the species _M. leucadendron_ and _M. Caju puti_.
By five o’clock, P.M. we arrived, after a very agreeable day’s journey,
at the neat white cottage of Mr. Rose, at Mundoona: we had made a journey
of twenty-nine miles this day, and were now within a few miles of Yas
Plains, although they were not visible from this farm; the fine stream
of the Yas river flows through the estate, only a short distance from
the cottage. Since leaving “Goulburn Plains,” we had occasionally seen
the “Green-wattle tree” still in bloom; its bark is highly valued for the
tanning principle it abundantly contains; the bark of another “_Acacia_,”
called “black wattle” by the colonists, also contains similar properties,
but the former bears the preference from producing a stronger liquor,
and from the latter imparting a much deeper red tinge to the leather;
the bark is used in the tan pits macerated only in cold water, but when
there is time and requisite conveniences, a decoction is made, by which
a stronger liquor is procured. The aborigines, about the Illawarra
district, and other parts of the colony, stupify fish, by throwing the
bark of the “green-wattle tree” into the water.
I rode over to Yas Plains, to the farm of Mr. Manton, (a son of the
celebrated gunsmith,) about four miles distant on the banks of the Yas
river, the house being constructed on an elevated site, commands a fine
picturesque view of the extensive plains or downs of Yas, the distant
wooded hills, forest scenery, with the Yas river slowly winding its
course beneath. This part of the colony appears valuable; the country
is for the most part open forest, with luxuriant pasturage, and well
watered, (an object of much importance in this arid country,) combining
capabilities of cultivation and grazing land with picturesque beauty. The
“Plains,” or more properly speaking, extensive downs, are destitute of
trees, affording abundance of pasturage for sheep, &c., and the distance
is terminated by open forest country, most part of which has already been
granted or sold by government to settlers.
Mr. Manton’s farm is delightfully situated, having a fine stream of water
running through it, every facility for sheep-washing is afforded him—a
desideratum of the first importance in this colony, where wool forms the
staple article, the settler’s main prop, and the cleaner it is brought
to market, of course a better price can be obtained. The land about the
farm, (as must be expected from all large grants,) is composed of good
and bad portions, but the former, I believe, preponderates.
The natives had just arrived in the paddock, and established their
temporary village or encampment; their habitations were merely sheets of
bark, stripped from the trees in the vicinity, and supported by props,
the sheet of bark being placed to windward, and shifted as might be
required, the fire for cooking purposes, &c., being made in front. The
aborigines are very expert in stripping large and perfect sheets of bark
from the trees, and as this material is used by the colonists for the
covering of huts and other purposes, the natives are often employed by
them to procure it. The bark of two species of the _Eucalyptus_ called
“stringy bark” and “box-tree” by the colonists, (more particularly the
former,) is preferred, as from them it is more readily stripped in pieces
of the large size usually required. If the aborigines wanted to pass a
river, I observed them strip off sheets of bark with great expedition,
upon which they crossed, paddling themselves with a piece of wood,
sometimes placing piles of mud at each end of the rude _bark_ to prevent
the ingress of the water, if there was any thing in it they wished
to keep dry: having all the services they require out of the rudely
constructed vessels, they desert and leave them either to be carried down
the stream or rot on the banks, being aware that another canoe of the
same rude construction is always ready when it may be required.
When the bark of the “stringy bark” (or, according to its native name
in this part of the colony, _Dether_) is waved, it is rejected by the
stock-keepers, fencers, &c., as unserviceable, the timber being then
found twisted, and not capable of being split into straight pieces for
paling, &c.; but when the fibres of the bark run in a parallel direction,
the wood of the tree is also found to correspond, and the grain being
straight is readily split into rails, posts, or applied to any other
purpose that may be required by the settler. The wood of the “box-tree”
(_Eucalyptus marginata_?) is considered very durable for flooring boards,
shingles, &c., and the young trees for shafts of gigs; for the latter
purpose it is considered by many persons not to be surpassed by any other
kind of wood in the colony.
The usual mode of cooking among the native tribes, is by throwing the
food upon the fire to broil, or rather to get half-roasted, in which
state it is eaten; or a native oven is made in the ground, similar to
those in use among the New Zealanders, and throughout the Polynesian
Archipelago.[63] The remarks made on the characteristic features and
intellectual capacities of the aborigines, previously seen in the
Bathurst district, equally apply to those now seen in this portion of
the colony. I cannot consider them so degraded a race as they have been
represented. Lesson, alluding to the Australian negro, says, “To judge
by his external appearance and intellect, the native of New South Wales
would seem to have been degraded from the true rank of man, and to
approach the nature of the brute.
“This race does not appear to differ in any thing essential from the
Oceanic race, of which the Papuas alone form another somewhat distinct
branch; they have a similarity of form and external character to the
inhabitants of New Britain, New Ireland, and very probably those of New
Caledonia. Poverty of soil and rigour of climate must have exerted an
influence upon the race, and deteriorated it, and it is from this source
that the slight differences arise, which seem to separate it from the
African negro race, with which, however, an attentive examination shows
it to be identical.” And he further observes, “it is probable that the
negroes of New Holland have extended into the Australian continent, by
New Guinea and the eastern islands, and that the migration has been made
from the coast of Africa by the great island of Madagascar, which had
itself, at a later period, received men of other races.”
The races inhabiting, however, the land of New South Wales and Van
Dieman’s Land or Tasmania, differ; the former, although possessing
the African features, have straight hair, whilst those of the latter
country are more closely allied to the Papuans. As far as regards their
occasionally miserable appearance, (for many are the reverse in the
interior,) it may be counted for by a dependence upon a precarious supply
of food. Having no natural fruits, they subsist principally upon the
produce of the chase, having nothing to induce them to cultivate the
soil; they have no fixed habitations, and consequently no villages; the
different tribes or families remove to those localities where game may
abound, and as too long a stay in any situation would cause a scarcity of
game, they seldom remain in one spot longer than three or four days. How
different then they are, in respect to country and climate, from those
races inhabiting the Polynesian Archipelago, who live in a luxuriant and
fertile country, abounding in all the vegetables and fruits of tropical
countries, as well as having hogs, fowls, &c.[64]
Polygamy is permitted among the Australian aborigines: each takes as many
wives as he pleases, or can maintain, and can dismiss or assign them
over at pleasure; but many have only one wife, not taking another until
she is dismissed. Some of the women of the interior tribes have fine
forms, tolerably handsome features, and fine curled hair; the generality,
however, of both males and females, are not conspicuous for personal
beauty.
After wet weather they track game with much facility, and from the
late rains the hunting expeditions had been very successful; game was
therefore abundant at the camp, which consisted of opossums, flying
squirrels, bandicoots, snakes, &c. I purchased, for a small piece of
tobacco, the skin (the fur of which is remarkably fine) of a very
handsome light grey flying squirrel, called by the natives _Min, ugo_,
(and also _Bango_ and _Berat_.) It is surprising the distance these
animals “fly,” or spring, aided by the membrane extending from the sides
between the fore and hind legs. The little sugar squirrel has been known
to leap a distance of forty yards, from an elevation of _thirty feet_
to the butt of a tree, across a river. One of the opossums among the
game was a female which had two large-sized young ones in her pouch; the
delicate morsels were at this time broiling, unskinned, and undrawn, upon
the fire, whilst the “old mother” was lying yet unflayed in the basket.
It was amusing to see with what rapidity and expertness the animals
were skinned and embowelled by the blacks; the offal was thrown to the
dogs, but as such a waste on the part of the natives does not often
take place, we can only presume it is when game, as it was at present,
is very abundant—the dogs are usually in poor condition, from getting
a very precarious supply of provender: the liver being extracted, and
gall-bladder removed, a stick was thrust through the animal, which was
either thrown upon the ashes to broil, or placed upon a wooden spit
before the fire to roast; whether the food was removed from the fire
cooked, or only half-dressed, depended entirely on the state of their
appetites: the flesh of the animals at this time preparing for dinner by
our tawny friends appeared delicate, and was no doubt excellent eating,
as the diet of the animals was in most instances vegetable.
The natives are as dirty in general habits as in cookery, and this
_unclean_ race were often seen as “chimney ornaments” in the settlers’
habitations, placing themselves on each side of the fire-place, or almost
in the hearth, to get warm, looking like a huge piece of charred wood,
and forming objects neither useful nor ornamental; they have a great
antipathy to any thing like labour, (I do not mean to disparage the
race by this observation, for all uncultivated tribes are similar in
this respect,) and the only way to get rid of them whenever they became
troublesome, was to set them to work.
Both sexes wear cloaks made from several skins of the opossum, kangaroos,
or other animals joined together. In cold weather the fur is worn turned
inwards, making a warm and comfortable garment; neither males nor females
appear to regard it as a covering required for decency, but merely as a
protection against the inclemency of the weather, as it is frequently
thrown aside. The skins of either the opossum or kangaroo are used for
cloaks, and are prepared, when recently taken from the animal, by
stretching them out upon the ground with small wooden pegs, the inner
side being scraped with a shell, until they are rendered perfectly clean
and pliable. The skins when dry are stitched neatly together, with thread
made from the long tendons of the muscles about the tail of the kangaroo;
(which when dried are capable of being divided into threads of almost
any degree of fineness;) the needle is formed of a piece of bone; and a
number of these skins sewn together form the cloaks in general use. Among
both males and females many have a sort of _tatauing_, or ornamental
marks scratched upon the inner part of the cloak, according to the taste
of the owner.
Both sexes have the _septum naris_ perforated, in which a piece of
straw, stick, or emu-bone is worn, looking like what Jack would term
a “spritsail yard;” this practice is universal among the whole of the
tribes seen in the colony, and is regarded as highly ornamental. I have
before alluded to the loss of an incisor tooth of the upper jaw, observed
among the adult male natives; this, on inquiry, I found proceeded from
a custom existing among them, (which is attended at the time with much
ceremony,) of a male, on attaining the age of manhood, having to undergo
this operation, receiving at the same time the “cumeel,” or opossum-skin
belt, after which he is admitted into the society of men, permitted to
attend the _corroberas_, or consultations when any marauding or war
expedition is in contemplation, or when the tribe is about to remove from
one part of the country to another: previous to this, they are considered
only fit society for women, and associate principally with them. A son of
a chief at Yas Plains, who had not yet undergone this ceremony, necessary
for his admission, attended one of their meetings: on being discovered,
he was obliged to leave the assembly.
The females among the native tribes have little confidence reposed
in them by the opposite sex, from fear that their secret plans and
expeditions might be divulged by them: when, therefore, they form a plot
to steal or kill cattle, they are careful to conceal their schemes from
the weaker sex, and boys associate with them; for in instances not a few,
when plans for marauding excursions have been overheard by the females,
the latter have betrayed them to the stock-keepers, and thus frustrated
their intentions. But may not this proceed from the want of mutual
confidence between the parties? Among the tribes a chieftain does not
preserve an hereditary rank, chiefs being chosen for superior bravery,
being the best hunter, or having a superior mind.[65] Thus men in a state
of nature choose their leaders; and we may observe a similar order of
things among gregarious animals.