Cross the country to Goulbourn Plains—A road-gang
stockade—Splendid view—The old Bathurst road—Sidmouth
valley—Brisbane valley—Squash field—Bolam Creek—Turril,
turril—Gum resin—Swampy country—Mr. Cowper’s
farm—Anecdotes—Distant view of Goulburn Plains—Mr. Bradley’s
estate—Cross the plains—Hospitable reception at cardross—The
Manna tree—Failure in rearing the tulip tree.
On the 24th of September, after an agreeable sojourn with Mr. E. Cox,
and again accompanied by Mr. O’Brien, we resumed our journey; retracing
our road to Wallerowang, and crossing the country to Goulburn Plains. We
arrived at Wallerowang on the morning of the 28th, and, after a short
stay, proceeded on our journey, taking a bush-road across the country;
passed “Honeysuckle Swamp,” (so called from abounding in that species of
_Banksia_, before mentioned as _rosmarinifolia_,) about which the old
grass was on fire. The custom of setting the dry grass on fire is very
prevalent throughout the colony, as the young grass shooting up soon
after affords fine feeding for cattle, &c.
After riding about seven miles,[51] we arrived at a stockade, inhabited
by a road-gang, employed upon the new Bathurst road, having a very
distant view of the descent at Mount Vittoria, from which the road we
were upon was a continuation, and a splendid view of mountain ranges and
forest scenery was now before us. We only proceeded a few miles upon
this excellent road, when we turned off into a dull bush-path through a
portion of country which, from its want of animation, became tiresome to
man and beast; there was nothing to excite the attention of either, and
the horses always appear to participate, with ourselves, in the want of a
lively character in the country.
Emerging from this wild bushy track, we came upon the old Bathurst road,
and then the country assumed a better appearance, being thinly timbered,
and herds of cattle gave some animation to the scene, increasing
the beauty of the landscape. As we proceeded, the Fish River was
occasionally seen winding its course among acacias, swamp oaks, and other
trees, which grew upon its banks, and the sight of a river in this badly
watered country, was always a pleasing relief. We crossed this river, and
deviating from the main road arrived at “_Sidmouth Valley_,” the neat
farm and residence of Mr. Lowe, by whom we were kindly received, and
remained for the night, after a journey this day of twenty-two miles. A
distant view of the Bathurst Plains was obtained from this farm.
We left “_Sidmouth Valley_” early on the following morning, through a
good bush-road, and arrived at a portion of thinly-timbered country,
having a character of park scenery, abounding in fine herbage. This
brought us almost immediately upon a cattle station, the property of
Capt. P. P. King, R.N. There was no one in the hut, so, after feeding our
horses, we again proceeded; and, after a four miles ride, arrived at a
cattle station, belonging to Mr. Scarvell, called “_Brisbane Valley_,”
although from its quality and locality, “_swamp_” would have been a more
correct nomenclature. From this station our road led by a bush-path
between wooded hills, and through miserable swamps famed for the loss
of an immense number of sheep, until we arrived at a place called
“_Squashfield_,” and never was a more appropriate name bestowed upon a
locality; for although the vegetation, springing up from the swamps, gave
a fresh, fertile, and even beautiful appearance to the place, yet the
moist, chilly, and raw atmosphere, could excite no other ideas than those
connected with rheumatisms, catarrhs, and analogous diseases, to which
cold and damp will subject the human frame. From the lateness of the hour
we took up our night’s lodging in the hut at this station, where every
thing was done to make us as comfortable as possible. Squashfield was,
for the present, rented by Mr. Imlay, as a cattle station.
This place is an extensive range of swampy flats, of fertile appearance,
which was the cause of its being first selected as a sheep station,
and its bright features, when the young grass is springing up, charmed
many into severe losses; for, not taking into calculation the quality
of the soil, or the adaptation of the place for a sheep-run, numerous
flocks were placed upon it, and the result was, before any long period
had elapsed, the loss of the whole from rot; and yet, notwithstanding
these facts more sheep were subsequently placed on the same spot, and, as
might have been expected, with similar results, from the damp and swampy
nature of the situation. Even now the stock-keepers stated that cattle
could not remain about the place, but wander away to more congenial
pasturage in other parts of the country.
We rose at day light to continue our journey; a hoar frost whitened
the ground, and the atmosphere was exceedingly cold and damp: even
our horses were impatient to leave this uncongenial spot, having been
left by themselves during the night; for every animal, except those in
confinement, which had been collected together with much trouble the
previous day, were all reported absent without leave on the following
morning.
After a short journey, through a similar swampy country, we arrived at a
more elevated and agreeable spot, when we stopped to take refreshments,
made a bush fire, prepared tea, turning out our horses to graze in a fine
pasturage. Many of the Eucalypti trees[52] were throwing off their dark
brown and rough outer bark, appearing in a new one, of a greyish colour.
The appearance of the trees, partially denuded, with strips of brown
crisped bark hanging about their trunks and branches ready to fall,
being a general peculiarity of the trees of the country, excites the
attention of the stranger. Our road led through a broken but picturesque
country, thinly timbered, and appeared good pasture land. We crossed a
small river, called the _Bingham_, the country improving very much as we
proceeded, abounding in beautiful park scenery, and the distant hills,
rising one above the other, both thinly, and, in some situations, densely
wooded, was an agreeable change to the uninteresting sameness of the
country through which we had, for the most part, journeyed.
The species of Eucalyptus, termed “Box Tree,” by the colonists, was most
abundant: it has a rough, scaly bark, differing in that particular from
most of the other species or varieties of the same genus. On the elevated
spots, the _Exocarpus cupressiforme_, or native cherry-tree, was seen;
but the situation appeared uncongenial to its growth; for, instead of
the graceful and elegantly pending branches, with delicate dark-green
foliage, such as this tree presents when growing in sheltered situations,
it now had a stunted, brown, and wretched appearance. About noon, we
arrived at Mr. Murphy’s station at Bingham, being seventeen miles from
Squashfield.
The approach to marshy land is readily indicated by the melody of the
frog tribe, among which, the peculiar sound uttered by that species
known by the name of the “bell frog,” is very often heard: and indeed
the name is not inapplicable to the creature, the sound it produces,
being very similar to a sheep-bell. Detached clumps of wire grass,[53]
intermingled with the brown-coloured sedge grass,[54] and at some places
reeds (_Arundo phragmites_? Linn.) also point out those watery patches
which are often met by the traveller while journeying through this
country.
Birds were occasionally numerous, particularly when near a river; but
magpies and crows were never found wanting in any part of the country,
abounding every where: the former the same impudent, peculating race as
at home. As for the parrot tribe, enough may be seen in a day’s ride to
supply all the maiden ladies in Europe with pollies sufficient to talk
or scream them to death in an inconceivably short period of time; and
the peculiar noise of the _laughing_ or _feathered jackass_, (_Dacelo
gigantea_,) which increases from a low to a loud thrilling gurgling
laugh, was often heard.
We continued our journey over a very beautiful and romantic country, with
distant thinly-wooded mountains trending towards the Abercrombie river,
which was not far off, reminding me of some of the splendid scenery of
Devon. After travelling about four miles, descending a steep hill, we
arrived on the banks of the river, which at this part of its course was
a rapid, but not broad stream. Swamp oaks (_Casurina paludosa_) grew
abundantly on the banks, their dark foliage giving a gloomy character to
the scene.[55]
After crossing the river, (which, not having been lately swollen by
rains, was effected without much difficulty,) we had to ascend a very
steep hill, which brought us to a gradually ascending road over hills,
having a remarkably beautiful, verdant, and romantic appearance. The
thinly-wooded hills were thickly clothed with a bright carpeting of
verdure, imparting a cheerful feature to the country, which was further
increased by a number of flowers scattered about, of various tints;
among which were the _Gnapthalium_, with yellow, white, and pink
blossoms; Emu flowers, (_Richea glauca_,) and a great number of the
_Orchideæ_ family; their blue, pink, and yellow flowers rising a short
distance above the surface of the ground,—all afforded a pleasing variety
to the many natural beauties of this place.
As we ascended this road, the sloping declivities of the hills in the
vicinity, clothed with rich pasturage, sufficiently wooded to give
variety, with an occasional glimpse of the “Abercrombie,” winding its
course between the lofty, smiling hills, increased, as we proceeded,
the beauty of the prospect. Even the climate was changed: instead of
the damp, frosty, wintry climate we had left only in the morning, we
were suddenly _transported_ (a word obsolete in the colony) to another
region,—the weather fine—clear and serene sky—the sun shining brilliantly
upon the smiling scene; birds carolling, seemed to sympathize in our
feelings; butterflies and other brilliant insects sported over the gay
flowers that strewed our path, and the whole formed a scene doubly felt
by comparison with the uninteresting country we had left.
After we attained the summit of this hilly ascent, the road led through
a more swampy and thickly-wooded country; but that character did not
continue far, for we again approached an open forest country, and a farm
at _Bolam_[56] appeared situated on an opposite hill to that over which
the road we were then traversing passed. On descending, we crossed a
rivulet or creek, (for the terms are synonymous in this country,) called
“Bolam Creek;” and at five P.M., arrived at the neat farm of Mr. James
Hassell. We now reached the Argyle country; and the contrast between this
and the portion of the Bathurst district, through which we had passed,
was much in favour of the former. The distance of our journey this day
was twenty-eight miles; and our horses, not lately having had good
feeding, from the poorness of the pasturage, we here gave them a day’s
rest; and although we had to regret the absence of Mr. Hassell, we yet
received every attention from the persons left in charge.
We resumed our journey early on the morning of the 30th; but the day
turned out very wet.
About Bolam Creek, flocks of wild ducks were abundant. These birds were
not so wild about creeks as on large rivers. The barn-doors about the
farms (in imitation of a similar custom in the “old country,”) were
decorated by the brushes and tails of that shepherds’ pest, the Dingo,
or native Australian dog, and other vermin belonging to the colony.
As we rode through the bush, the moist atmosphere occasioned a strong
aroma to be diffused from the leaves of the gum-trees, as well as from
odoriferous flowers. The country was of a picturesque character; and,
after a distance of twelve miles, we reached a station belonging to Mr.
Ellis, called “Turril, turril,” where we remained an hour to refresh
our horses. I remarked the red gum in abundance on most trees of the
_Eucalyptus_ genus: the red, spotted, and white gum, iron, and stringy
bark, manna, box, and others, produced it profusely: it exudes both
spontaneously and in larger quantities, when incisions have been made on
the trunk, more particularly after rain. It is seen in masses upon the
trunk; but its particles have so little tenacity, that when in a concrete
form any attempt to detach them in one entire lump fails, and it crumbles
immediately into innumerable minute fragments.
This gum resin has a strong astringent quality, and is one of the
varieties of the Kino of commerce, (the other variety of Kino being
brought from Africa, and is produced by a tree of the _Pterocarpus_
genus.) When first it issues from the tree, it is of the consistence
of very thick syrup, and immediately after rain may be seen flowing
from an incision or cleft in the tree very abundantly, being then of
a very beautiful light-red colour, becoming of a dark shining red,
and hardening, by exposure to the air. The _Angophora lanceolata_, or
apple-tree of the colonists, (a genus allied to that of Eucalyptus,) also
yields a dark-red astringent gum from its trunk and branches.
After leaving Turril, turril, we proceeded through a flat, swampy, and
uninteresting country, rendered still more tiresome by the drizzling
rain. Having passed “Stony Creek,” and descended “Church Hill,” we were
glad to obtain shelter at the farm of _Mingablah_, the property of
Charles Cowper, Esq., after a journey of twenty-eight miles. The soil
about this part of the country was of a fertile character, but stony;
abounding in the whinstone.
Much of the dull time during our confinement to the house, from the heavy
and continued rain, was passed away by the amusing relations of the
overseer, who informed us he had, from a very tender age, a “propensity”
to keep living animals. Since his arrival in this country, he had
succeeded in domesticating a large number of parrots, who went in and out
of the house, without making any attempt to escape from his protecting
care. But one fatal day this pleasing domestic scene was changed to
one of a tragical nature; for, at an unlucky hour, a stranger arrived,
accompanied by a big dog of a black colour. The result proved that the
dog had only one “propensity,” and that, to speak phrenologically, was
“destructiveness.” So, availing himself of the absence of those of
human creation, and excited by the aforesaid organ, and the dulness of
the times, he began to attack and speedily demolish the frames of the
pollies, scattered their limbs and feathers about, and did not leave one
survivor to relate the tale. The horrid sight that met the affectionate
eyes of the owner on his return, was his favourites, some with bowels
protruding from their natural cavity; others minus heads and limbs; and
all so damaged, as to have life extinguished. The big black dog even
then was caught busily occupied in shaking about what remained of those
unfortunate feathered bipeds. After this melancholy occurrence, he became
disheartened from having any more favourites, and gave it to us as the
cause why he had no curious animals at this time to show us, but in my
opinion the relation was much more amusing than the animals would have
been: so their absence, at least to us, was not a source of regret.
Although the rain still continued, we proceeded on our journey the
following morning, being desirous of reaching Goulburn Plains, (which was
now only twenty miles distant.) We passed through a swampy, thinly-wooded
country, and by noon arrived at “Tarlo,” on the banks of the Cockbundoon
river. Proceeding several miles further, from the summit of a hill near
the road, we were gratified by a splendid distant view of a portion of
_Goulburn Plains_, and the open forest land in its vicinity. We passed
through the township, which at present contains only a few bark and
wooden habitations. This situation for the township not being originally
well chosen, it is the intention of government to remove it to a more
suitable part of the plains.
We arrived in the evening at the prettily situated dwelling-house and
fine estate of J. Bradley, Esq., called Lansdowne Park; from which
there is a fine prospect of a very picturesque portion of the plains.
This part of the country, (called “Goulburn Plains” and “Mulwerry” by
the aborigines,) is a series of beautiful plains, clear of timber,
except where a few scattered clumps of _Banksia rosmarinifolia_, or
“honeysuckle,” are seen, readily distinguished by its dark appearance,
contrasted by the lively carpeting of verdure beneath and around them;
hills of moderate elevation, with sloping declivities, and wooded on
their summits, divide the plains, and give a pleasing variety to the
prospect; while distant mountains, having a blue tinge, terminate the
view to the horizon: occasional patches of land under cultivation with
grain, innumerable herds of cattle grazing, and flocks of sheep, attended
by their shepherds, gave animation to the verdant plains, not yet browned
by the parching summer heats.
The following morning we crossed the plains, through a still beautiful
country, passing the farms of Messrs. Howey, Rossi, and Moore, near which
the Wollandilly river flows in a fine stream; after a ride of nine miles,
the weather being unfavourable, we sought shelter, and received a kind
reception at “Cardross,” the farm of Mr. Kinghorne.
On the road, several of that elegant species of the _Eucalyptus_, the _E.
mannifera_, or manna-tree, were seen, having just produced flower-buds;
but no manna was yet secreted from the trees. Since leaving the Blue
Mountain range, not a single shrub of the Warratah or tulip-tree
(_Telopea speciosissima_) has been met with; and I heard from several
persons that the attempts as yet made to rear it in the gardens in this
part of the colony had failed. From the splendid beauty of its flowers,
the introduction would be desirable, as conducing much to the ornamental
appearance of the flower garden.