Sombre appearance of the Australian coast—Feelings of an
emigrant on approaching it—Improvement of Sydney—Fruits
produced in the colony—Extent of the town—Cultivation
of flowers and culinary vegetables—House-rent—The
streets—Parrots—Shops—Impolicy of continuing the colony as
a penal settlement—The theatre—Aspect of the country in the
vicinity of Sydney—The grass tree—Floral beauties—Larva of
a curious insect—The colonial museum—Visit to Elizabeth
Bay—Valuable botanical specimens in the garden of the
Honourable Alexander Macleay—New Zealand flax—Articles
manufactured from that vegetable—Leave Sydney—Residence of Mr.
M’Arthur—Forest flowers—Acacias—Paramatta—Swallows.
As we sailed by the Australian coast, its barren aspect neither cheered
or invited the stranger’s eye; even where vegetation grew upon its
shores, it displayed so sombre an appearance as to impart no animation to
the scenery of the coast. To an emigrant, one who has left the land of
his fathers, to rear his family and lay his bones in a distant soil, the
first view of this, his adopted country, cannot excite in his bosom any
emotions of pleasurable gratification; despondency succeeds the bright
rays of hope, and he compares with heartfelt regret the arid land before
him with the fertile country he has forsaken, because it afforded not
sustenance for himself and family, and thus reluctantly caused him to
sever the affectionate ties that united him to dear friends in his native
land—the place of his birth—the soil and habitation of his forefathers
for centuries.
One does not behold the graceful waving of the cocoa palm, the broad
and vivid green foliage of the plantain, nor the beautiful luxuriance
of a tropical vegetation, which delight the vision of the wearied
voyager on a first approach to a tropical region, where the soil teems
with cultivation, or a profuse natural vegetation extending from the
loftiest mountains even to the ocean’s brink. But on landing and viewing
the interior of Australia, the wanderer, although seeing much to
confirm his first impressions, will also view many parts of the country
recalling to his memory features resembling the land he has left; and
as industry gives him wealth and independence, and he finds his family
easily maintained, he becomes reconciled to his choice, and remains
comparatively if not entirely happy.
Sydney was much improved and enlarged since my last visit in 1829;
provisions were abundant and exceedingly cheap, the shipping being
supplied with fresh beef at one penny a pound, and even less; vegetables
are also very abundant, except in the most arid of the summer months; and
fruit is, during the summer months, plentiful, and a great portion of
excellent quality, consisting of several varieties of peaches, apricots,
apples, pears, water-melons, loquats, grapes, plums, and strawberries,
&c. Fruit of a superior kind obtains a high price, but the common kinds
are very cheap; peaches for preserves or tarts being hawked about the
streets at a penny a dozen. Gooseberries will not succeed in the vicinity
of Sydney, but this fruit has been produced in the Argyle and Bathurst
districts. Grapes have lately been perfected in the colony in great
abundance, both as to size and flavour; and much attention is now devoted
by the colonists to the cultivation of the vine; for which, from its
prolific and early bearing, the Australian soil seems to be exceedingly
well calculated.
Several enterprising individuals have introduced the different species
and varieties of vines from Spain, France, Portugal, &c. &c. producing
grapes, valuable in the manufacture of wine, as also for the dessert;
and we may hope that the time is not distant when grapes will abound
in Australia as they at present do at the Cape, and that wine both for
home-consumption and exportation will be made from them. The immense
increase of grapes in the colony during the last two or three years,
leads one to suppose that the above opinion will speedily be confirmed.
On making a circuit around the town of Sydney, the metropolis of the
Australian colony, the extent of ground it occupies, the number of
buildings completed, as well as those erecting for the increased and
still increasing population, the variety and neatness of the shops,
excite the surprise of a stranger, and still more of a person who
revisits the town after a brief absence, at the rapid improvements that
have taken place in this distant colony in so short a period of time.
The humble wooden dwellings are fast giving place to neat houses and
cottages constructed of brick or sandstone; but, as may be expected
in all recently established towns, there is much want of symmetry in
the construction of the buildings; and on perambulating the streets,
specimens of several unknown orders of architecture are seen; the cottage
style, with neat verandas, is one much adopted for private dwellings, and
has a neatness of external appearance, with which the interior usually
corresponds. Many have neat gardens attached to them, in which, during
the summer season, the blooming rose, as well as the pink, the stock,
and other European flowers, impart a beauty, and remind one of home; or,
in lieu of these gay vegetable productions, the industrious housekeeper
has caused the plot of ground to be planted with peas, beans, cabbages,
and other culinary vegetables. The tree cabbage, common on the European
continent, but rarely seen in England, I observed introduced in the
gardens; it thrives well in the colony.
House-rent is excessively high in the colony, being one of the greatest
expenses to a resident in Sydney; it varies from sixty to two hundred
and fifty pounds annually. The streets being of sandstone, the constant
attrition of it by vehicles, &c. produces, from its friability, much
dust, which occasions, during windy days, much annoyance; from the same
cause, the streets are often out of repair, and the best material for
repairing them is a kind of flinty stone, brought by ships from Hobart
Town as ballast.
Parrots are, perhaps, of all the feathered tribe, the most numerous in
the colony; and different species are lauded for speaking, whistling, and
other noisy accomplishments. No one can walk the streets of Sydney or
any of the villages of the colony, or enter an inn or dwelling-house,
without seeing this class of birds hung about in cages, and having his
ears assailed by the screeching, babbling, and whistling noises which
issue from their vocal organs: it is the street music of the colony, and
“pretty polly,” “sweet polly,” are tender sounds which issue from the
exterior as well as interior of every dwelling. These birds are evidently
gifted with the bump of _talkativeness_. It was once asserted, that
ladies kept the birds to converse with when alone, which served a double
purpose—that of being to them both practice and amusement.
The best view of the town, shipping, and adjacent country is that seen
from the “rocks,” and the prospect afforded from this elevated situation
is very fine. Shops of all kinds are rapidly multiplying; and lately
there have been extensive emigrations of artisans of all descriptions
from every part of the united kingdom; butchers, bakers, pastrycooks,
provision merchants, shoemakers, apothecaries, fancy-bread bakers,
booksellers, &c. &c. are numerous, and have neat, and some even elegant
shops; the press sends forth their cards and circulars, and large posting
bills, printed in a neat and even superior manner, equal to any similar
production in our country towns in England. Circulating libraries and
literary reading rooms are now becoming numerous, for the Australians are
desirous of being a reading as well as a thinking people, and are anxious
to have the permission of legislating for themselves; but whilst the free
and emancipist parties are each desirous of gaining an ascendancy in
colonial affairs, it would certainly not be advisable to grant the boon;
both have their interests at home, and the emancipists are a wealthy and
powerful body; and although I am not anxious to enter into the political
affairs of the colony, I would, while on this subject, merely wish to
suggest the expediency, from the wealth and importance of this part of
the Australian colony, to no longer use it as a penal settlement, but
encourage free emigration of labourers, and send the convicts to a new
colony, which might be founded at the northern portion of the extensive
Australian territory; then there can be no doubt that party spirit will
in some degree subside, and the colony will increase still more in
prosperity, being undivided by any party feeling.
It is well known that free emigration is detested by most of the convict
party, and a wealthy individual of this class once remarked, “_What have
the free emigrants to do here? the colony was founded for us, they have
no right here_;” and that individual, from his wealth, would probably
be elected a member of a future House of Assembly. The emigration of
wealthy settlers has been much retarded by the government order, that no
grants of land are to be given, but only purchased; until that order is
repealed, no great increase of settlers for agricultural purposes will
take place; _one grant_—but one grant _only_—ought to be given to the
emigrant on his arrival in the colony as before; and those who may be
desirous of having an additional grant, may then be able to effect it by
purchase; the land sold since the new order has been in operation, has
been principally, if not entirely, purchased by those among the settlers
who were desirous of increasing the extent of their property, and from
the vicinity of the “selection” to their former grant, can afford to give
a higher price for it, than the newly arrived settler, ignorant of the
quality of the land, and the district in which it may be situated.
A theatre having been licensed by the governor, and lately opened by
a _select_ company of performers, I visited it one night to ascertain
the actual state of the drama in the colony, as also to see the
mingled society which would be brought together by such a novel
place of amusement. On the night mentioned, I visited it with a party
of friends; the evening’s entertainment was the “Heir at Law,” and
“Bombastes Furioso.” The interior of the theatre (which was fitted up as
a temporary measure, in a large room of the Royal Hotel[24]) is small,
and is used only until one more complete can be erected: considering the
disadvantages under which theatrical exhibitions must labour in so young
a colony, the “_tout ensemble_” far exceeded what I had expected. The pit
and boxes (for there was no gallery) might probably contain one hundred
and fifty persons. To speak of the _performance_ of Colman’s celebrated
comedy, would be to say it was beneath criticism; and the actors seemed
determined to “play the comedy” after a manner of their own, substituting
passages of their own for those of the author, in defiance of all
dramatic rules.
The greatest novelty of the evening was a young Australian actress, to
whom the drama was as much a novelty as she became to us this evening;
and consequently she had no medium of comparison by which her judgment
could be directed. Her predominant fault was a want of feeling. In the
very affecting scene, where poor Henry, long supposed to be lost, returns
to his beloved and disconsolate Caroline—he was in ranting raptures,
while she received him in the most hard-hearted manner that can be
conceived, uttered the expressions placed by the author into her mouth
as a mere matter of course; and, as the unfeeling creature evidently
showed that she neither felt nor understood the sentiments uttered, it
proved no affecting scene either to actors or auditors. However, “Advance
Australia;” the lady and the colony, we thought, are both young. As for
the rest of the corps, they too often mistook indecency for wit, and
probably by so doing they pleased the majority of their audience; if so,
both parties would be satisfied. The pit contained those usually seen in
the galleries of the theatre at home; and squabbles, threats, and actual
combats, served to amuse some, and discipline others; and the various
scenes and expressions in both pit and boxes excited in our minds any
thing but an idea of the sublime and beautiful. It may also be worthy of
remark, as a proof of the increasing morality of the colony, that no one
was stationed at the doors, as in our depraved metropolis, warning you to
“take care of your pockets;” and that neither myself, or any gentlemen in
company, either in our ingress or egress, had our pockets picked.
The domain and country in the immediate vicinity of Sydney was assuming
(in September) a gay and brilliant aspect from the profusion of flowering
shrubs and plants strewed over the arid soil; there was, however, a
peculiar character in the vegetation, the foliage of the trees having a
dry appearance, and being destitute of the lustre so observable in those
of other countries. This want of lustre is attributed by that justly
celebrated botanist, Dr. Brown, to the equal existence of cutaneous
glands on both surfaces of the leaf;[25] and another peculiarity is the
trees attaining a great elevation, with branches only at the summit, and
shedding their bark; some of the trees being seen perfectly decorticated
and appearing in a smooth new bark, whilst others have the outer bark not
yet quite thrown off, but hanging in long strips from the trunk. These
peculiarities, in combination with others, convey to us different ideas
from those formed from the vegetation of other countries.
Among the beauties of the kingdom of Flora, which are lavished so
profusely in this colony, the different species of the _Banksia_[26]
genus (or honeysuckle, as all the species are indiscriminately
termed by the colonists) would arrest the attention of the stranger,
by its peculiar growth as well as remarkable flowers; the species
_Banksia ericifolia_ was most profusely in bloom, its erect tufts of
orange-coloured flowers imparting to it a lively appearance. That curious
and interesting tree the _Xanthorrhœa_,—yellow gum or grass tree of the
colonists,—would attract observation from its peculiar growth, the trunk
being surmounted by long grassy foliage, from the centre of which arises
a long scape terminated by a cylindrical spike, either crowded with its
small white flowers of sickly odour, or with dark coloured angulated
capsules, containing small black seeds. The flowers of the several
species secrete a honey, which exudes at first like dew-drops, and
afterwards concretes into an albumen, attracting multitudes of insects,
which soon deface the purity the flowers before presented. The natives
readily produce fire by rubbing two pieces of the trunk of this tree
together.
This tree is found abundantly in several parts of the colony, and there
are already seven described species. It is named “_grass tree_” by the
colonists from its long pendent grassy foliage, and “_yellow gum tree_”
from secreting a quantity of yellowish gum.[27] It is a tree of curious
growth, and I have seen the species called _hastile_ from eight to ten
feet high, and the trunk sometimes surmounted by from two to four heads;
each bearing a flowering stem, which rises from the centre of the foliage
to the length of six feet and upwards: it is round and very light,
combining lightness with strength, and is used by the aborigines for
making their spears, fish gigs, &c. The scape terminates in a cylindrical
spike; the flowers are small, white, and numerous; an albumen is secreted
from them of a sweet taste, which is eaten by the natives and birds, and
is also a source of attraction to multitudes of ants and other insects;
the capsules are triangular, and contain three flat black seeds in
distinct cells.
It secretes a yellow gum, resembling very much in appearance, though not
in quality, the gamboge; externally it has a dull yellow appearance, but
breaks with a bright yellow fracture, and is often streaked internally
with red. In its natural state it has no fragrant smell, but by the
action of fire it diffuses an agreeable odour, resembling that produced
by frankincense, instead of which, I believe, it has been used in the
Roman Catholic churches on the continent. It exudes spontaneously from
the trunk, in very small globules, and is found in very thin layers about
the bases of the petioles of the leaves, but may be melted into large
masses.
The resin (more commonly known as the gum acaroides) is slightly bitter,
pungent and astringent, and has been used in dyspeptic, dysenteric, and
other cases; but not with such success as to cause it to be admitted into
our materia medica.
The floral beauties were profusely lavished, and the brilliancy and
gaiety they impart to the otherwise arid country during the full
flowering season, are to be equalled but by few countries. The present
season was later than usual, from the coldness of the weather continuing
for a more advanced period of the year than had been experienced for many
years in New South Wales. On our arrival the thermometer was lower than
we had experienced it in 41° south latitude, or when passing the Cape
during the winter season. During the remainder of the month of August,
the range of the thermometer was min. 45°, max. 58°.
Besides the _Banksia_,[28] or honeysuckles, the _Boronias_, _Epacris
grandiflora_, with its elegant pendent blossoms, and two species of
_Kennedia_,[29] one bearing red and the other small blue flowers
entwined over the shrubs in their vicinity; the other golden and fragrant
flowers of the _Acacias_ (of which genus the colony possesses a large
number of indigenous species) gave an additional beauty to the otherwise
arid character of the vegetation; the _Xylomelum pyriforme_, or wooden
pear-tree, so called from its exceedingly hard woody fruits, is seen
abundant in the vicinity of Sydney, several are seen from thirty to
thirty-five feet in elevation, and two feet in circumference. A splendid
_Bignonia_ overspread the rocks, decked with its pendulous clusters
of tinted blossoms; and two large and parisitical _Dendrobiums_, in
full flower, adorned the rough trunk of one of the eucalyptus tribe to
which it had attached itself for sustenance; and the different species
of _Grevillea_, _Leptospermum_, _Pimelia_, _Lambertia_, _Crowea_, and
a number of others, added to the animated appearance of the soil. On
the north shore the shrubs and plants, now in full flower, were more
abundant; the arid soil was brilliant with the variety of tints emanating
from them, combining to charm the eye with their beauty, but were
destitute of that agreeable fragrance for which the flowers of European
climes are so highly esteemed.
On the _Leptospermum_ I remarked an insect, or rather the larva of some
Coleopterous insect, pending from a sprig and enclosed in a case of a
woven substance, strengthened externally by bits of twigs; the insect to
which this larva belongs is unknown to me, nor have I been able to see it
described in any entomological work; the only publication in which I have
seen it mentioned, is in the catalogue of the museum of the Royal College
of Surgeons in London, part 4, fasc. 1. “Preparations of Natural History
in Spirit,” page 117, No. 438. “Larva of a Coleopterous Insect in its
Case.”
It attaches itself to the sprigs of shrubs, and, like the caddis worms,
protects itself by a habitation from which it can protrude the anterior
part of its body, being attached internally to its case by the tail,
and by that means can feed and change its locality at pleasure, bearing
its case with it, and re-attaching itself to any other place that may
suit its habits; thus I have had them moving about in my room, attaching
themselves to one place, and then removing to another; at first much to
my surprise at their power of mobility, until I saw it was effected by
the protrusion of the larva from its habitation. The case is composed
internally of a very tough web, and the exterior is covered by bits of
twigs interwoven upon it in a perpendicular direction; it suspends itself
from the twig by a strong cluster of filaments. I have found this larva
enclosed in its case of various sizes from three to six inches; this has
led me to conclude that, like the caddis worms, they increase in size in
the larva state, enlarging their habitations as the former ones become
too small for the increased size of their bodies. I found, by cutting one
of the cases open, that they readily repair any injury their dwellings
may have sustained, for a few hours only having elapsed after I had made
the incision to view the contained larva, I found the case restored as
firmly as before.
In company with my friend, Mr. Lauga, I visited the colonial museum,
which is arranged for the present in a small room, assigned for the
purpose, in the council-house, and which had been recently established
at Sydney: it forms an excellent nucleus for a splendid collection,
particularly in a country so prolific in rare, valuable, and beautiful
specimens of natural productions. For the present, the ornithological
collection is by far the best, both for the number, and being beautifully
stuffed and “set up” in attitudes, from which it is evident that
nature has been closely studied. Specimens of the families Columbæ,
Psittaceæ,[30] Raptores, &c. are the most numerous. There are also
several of the mammalia, and reptiles of the colony in the collection.
But, in a country where specimens could be procured in the majority
of instances in almost any number, it would be of great interest to
the lover of science, as well as to the admirer of nature, and also
considerably increase the value of the collection and the advancement of
scientific knowledge, if, besides among the birds, the male and female
specimens being preserved, any showing the changes of plumage, which so
frequently occur in the feathered tribe from the juvenile to the adult
age; the nest and eggs, together with the skeletons, or any remarkable
anatomical peculiarity, should also be preserved. The same system may be
adopted with respect to other animals, reptiles, and insects, arranged
each under the separate families and genera, so as, in a comparatively
short period of time, to form as valuable a collection of Australian
natural productions as has ever been collected in any part of the world.
Native weapons, utensils, and other specimens of the arts, as existing
among the Aborigines, as well as the skulls of the different tribes,
and accurate drawings of their peculiar cast of features, would be a
desirable addition. At the present time, such might be procured without
much difficulty; but it is equally certain, as well as much to be
regretted, that the tribes in the settled parts of the colony are fast
decreasing, and many, if not all, will, at no distant period, be known
but by name. Here, in a public museum, the remains of the arts, &c. as
existing among them, may be preserved as lasting memorials of the former
races inhabiting the lands, when they had ceased to exist.
The botanical productions of the colony may also be kept in a dried
state for reference, together with specimens of the woods in different
stages of growth. Peculiarities in the economy of any of the animals
might be preserved as wet preparations, and to the whole collection,
systematically arranged, as well as the scientific, (or hard names, as
the ladies call them,) let also the popular, colonial and native names,
be attached. The council has liberally granted the sum of two hundred
pounds annually out of the colonial funds, for the support of the museum;
a hundred and thirty pounds of which is a salary to the collector and
staffers of specimens of natural history for the collection, and the
remainder is expended for cases, &c.; but encouragement should be held
out for donations, as is usual in other public collections.[31] At all
events, the commencement of the public museum is excellent; and science,
I believe, is indebted for its institution to the Honourable Alexander
Macleay, colonial secretary; and may he see it attain an importance which
no one can enjoy or appreciate more than himself, who has devoted the
leisure moments of a long and arduous life engaged in other important
occupations, to the study of the natural sciences.
In company with my friend, Lieutenant Breton, R. N., I visited _Elizabeth
Bay_, about two miles distant from Sydney, and the property of the
Honourable Alexander Macleay. The situation is beautiful, being in a
retired bay or cove of Port Jackson, and the garden and farm is near
the sea. This spot, naturally of the most sterile description, has been
rendered, at a great expense and perseverance, in some degree productive
as a nursery for rare trees, shrubs, and plants, from all parts of the
world. We were much gratified with the valuable and rare specimens the
garden contained, and surprised that a spot possessed of no natural
advantages should have been rendered, comparatively, a little paradise.
In the garden, a species of _cactus_ was pointed out to me by the
gardener, Mr. Henderson, which Mr. Macleay had brought some years ago
from Rio Janeiro: it had flowered at the usual time, and they had changed
into what had the usual external form of the fruit. On making a section
of one, it had the usual fructual character, although in an immature
state. I was, however, informed that the fruit never attained maturity,
but became as one of the _branches_, blossoms being produced from it,
which would again produce fruit, and that fruit would not ripen, but
again produce flowers, so continuing during the whole of the flowering
season, without ripening any fruit, having consequently a curious anomaly
of fruit producing flowers, instead of flowers producing fruit. It has
always, during the time it has been planted in the garden, exhibited this
phenomenon, which was never observed in the plant from which this was
taken at Rio. It must therefore be considered as a curious anomaly in
vegetation.
The greatest importer and manufacturer of New Zealand flax[32] in the
colony is Mr. Maclaren. I visited his extensive establishment, which had
just been completed on the north shore near Sydney, for the cleaning and
manufacture of the flax into rope. He has also establishments at New
Zealand, from whence he imports the flax, exporting some to England, and
manufacturing the remainder into cordage for the use of the colonial
vessels. He has also a powerful hydraulic press, for the purpose of
compressing the flax into bales for exportation. He manufactures from
this material a large quantity of whale lines for the colonial whalers,
who speak in high terms of the quality of the rope, for that purpose. The
rope manufactured from this flax, takes the tar readily, and the small
lines are passed through it previous to their being made into rope of
larger size.[33]
As I hope the time is not far distant when its value will be more
appreciated, and the prejudice, at present so much against it, will
have diminished, I may perhaps be excused in giving an account of this
valuable plant from my own observations during a visit to New Zealand.
This valuable plant is regarded by the natives of New Zealand as sacred,
but is probably an object of veneration for its value in manufactures,
as it is neither employed in religious or other ceremonies. It grows
principally in moist, marshy soil, but I have also observed it growing
on the declivities of hills. The leaves are ensiform, of a bright green
colour, with a rim of orange along the margin: the foliage attains the
elevation of five to seven feet, and resembles in mode of growth our
water flags: the flower stalk rises to the elevation of four or five
feet beyond the foliage, and bears a profusion of liliaceous flowers of
a reddish yellow colour, succeeded by triangular capsules, filled with
numerous oblong, flattened, black seeds. The leaves grow perfectly erect,
but are figured incorrectly in Cook’s first voyage, and other works, as
they are delineated bending towards the ground, which from their rigidity
they are, unless broken, unable to do. The flax procured from this plant
is situated (unlike all other kinds with which we are acquainted) in the
leaves, where the fibres run in a longitudinal direction, covered by the
epidermis. There are several varieties of it indigenous to New Zealand,
from some of which the flax is procured of much finer quality than
others. I collected much finer specimens of the flax from the vicinity of
the River Thames, New Zealand, than from the Bay of Islands.
The flax is used by the natives of New Zealand for a variety of purposes;
from it they manufacture very strong fishing-lines, and also a variety
of handsome and durable mats, which are used both by males and females
for clothing. The method adopted by the natives of New Zealand, for
the separation of the fibre from the other parts of the leaf, is as
follows:—The leaves, when full grown, are cut down, the most perfect
selected, and a lateral incision is made with a shell on each side of
the leaf, so as simply to cut through the epidermis; the shell is then,
with a gentle pressure, drawn from one of the incisions rapidly down the
leaf, and is afterwards repeated on the other side; by this, the whole of
the external epidermis is readily removed; the internal epidermis, which
is of very thin texture, usually remains, but sometimes it is in the
greatest part removed together with the external: the internal seems to
unite the fibres of the leaf more intimately together, and if not cleaned
from the flax when in a recent state, is removed afterwards with great
difficulty; and when it is suffered to remain, renders the flax less
valuable as an article of commerce.
In the preparation of the flax, as well as in the manufacture of it into
matting, the females are employed, and custom renders them very expert.
Before, however, the flax is manufactured into matting, it is previously
soaked in water, and afterwards beaten, by which it becomes more pliable
and soft. The plant is named _koradi_ by the natives; and when the flax
is prepared, it is named _muka_. This plant alone would render New
Zealand a valuable colony to the British nation. At present the flax is
used in England only in the manufacture of cordage, &c.; but if the best
varieties, indigenous to New Zealand, were selected, (for they differ
materially in the fineness of the fibre,) and proper care and attention
bestowed on the cleaning, when in a recent state, it may, there can be no
doubt, be employed in the manufacture of linen of very fine quality.
Previous to being used for cordage, Mr. Maclaren has the flax well
hackled, which materially improves its quality and appearance: could it
be exported in this improved state, it cannot be doubted that much of
the prejudice now existing against its use would be removed; for the
epidermis of the leaves being entirely removed when the flax is well
cleaned, the fibres will, as a matter of course, unite closer together,
affording a united and stronger resistance; but Mr. Maclaren informs me
that the expense attending the hackling in this colony would not repay
him at the price the material at present obtains in England, or even were
it to advance to its former high price.
At present this gentleman cannot manufacture cordage at a less price
than a ship from England could bring it out as stores, but still at a
lower rate than the Europe cordage sent out on freight for sale; in the
colony it is therefore cheaper to colonial vessels, and is found very
durable. It has been used three years and upwards as running gear for
shipping, and highly approved of; from the flax having been sent home
in an uncleaned state, it has been rendered almost unsaleable, and gave
an opportunity for those prejudiced to depreciate its value. From the
natural indolence of the New Zealanders, it is difficult to procure the
flax from them in a better dressed state, until some of them are taught
the art of hackling it, which would be advisable to be done immediately.
To attempt to clean the flax from the epidermis in any but during the
recent state, is a labour of difficulty, from its close connexion
with the fibres, by which a great loss in weight would necessarily be
sustained.
Captain P. P. King, R. N. (who may be considered high authority,) when
on the survey of the Australian coast, used rope manufactured from this
flax, and he commends it highly for running rigging. I was also informed
by a mercantile gentleman, that from its unclean state (as well as from
bending the fibres in packing, by which the edges decaying, the length of
staple is diminished one-half) it has become quite unsaleable at home,
and the opposition to it by the Riga flax importers tends still more to
crush it, the badly cleaned state of the flax giving them a strong ground
for its condemnation.
On the 9th of September I left Sydney, with the intention of calling on
my friends in the vicinity, and then proceeding into the interior of
the colony. I passed an agreeable day with the amiable family of Major
Lockyer, at his pretty residence at the Field of Mars, near Kissing[34]
Point, and situated upon the banks of the Paramatta creek or river.[35]
After an agreeable day’s sojourn I left for Paramatta, calling at the
“Vineyard,” the residence of Hannibal M’Arthur, Esq. The habitation was
delightfully situated on the banks of the Paramatta creek, or river. His
gardens, annexed to the house, were extensive, and richly stored with
many valuable shrubs and plants, and a brilliant display of hyacinths,
anemones, jonquils, and other annuals, usually the ornament of our
gardens, brought forcibly to our minds the recollection of our spring and
summer seasons at home. Salt provision becoming an article of colonial
export, Major Lockyer, Mr. H. M’Arthur, and many other gentlemen, settled
in, and possessing large estates in the colony, are profitably employed
in salting provision, both for the commissariat department of the colony,
as well as for exportation. The Liverpool is preferred by some to the
salt of colonial manufacture, from its being of a stronger quality.
The woods in the vicinity of the “Vineyard” abounded with numerous plants
of the _Orchideæ_ family, growing in a very barren soil. One of these,
that has received the colonial appellation of “_native hyacinth_,”
was just developing its beautiful cærulean blossoms, and another its
flowers of a bright yellow, spotted internally with brown. These latter
_Orchideæ_ are named “_boyams_,”[36] having their bulbous roots filled
with a viscid mucilage, which renders them an article of food among the
aborigines: they are also sought after by the colonial children, who are
fond of collecting and eating them; the little creatures would readily
recognize their favourite “_boyams_” among the specimens I had collected.
The Emu flowers, (_Richea glauca_,) were now abundant, and in full
blossom; the colonial appellation has been given from the emus feeding
upon them, that is, when emus were to be seen, for they have been driven
by encroaching settlements far into the interior of the colony, and
before long an emu will be as great, if not a greater rarity, at Sydney
than in England, for in the latter country I am happy to see they are
endeavouring to, and I hope will, succeed in breeding them.
The acacias (of the species _floribunda_ and _fillifannilius_) were
abundant, and covered at this season with a profusion of delicate golden
flowers, imparting to the otherwise sterile aspect of the woods, a gay
and animated appearance, as well as diffusing a grateful fragrance
around, wafted by the gentle breezes to a still greater distance; their
drooping branches, thickly studded with pending clusters of blossoms,
decorated the sides of the roads, gardens, barren plains, and banks of
rivers, being the only trees that at one period of the season bestowed
some life to the usual uninteresting character of the scenery, at some
parts aided by other flowering shrubs in full blossom, among which those
of the _Epacridæ_ family were most profuse.
Paramatta is a pretty village situated in a vale, and has some
well-constructed public buildings—as the government-house, orphan-school,
commissariat stores, female factory, &c. The situation of the
village renders it exceedingly sultry during the summer months.
The government-house is well-situated, and the building is of neat
construction; the grounds about it are well laid out, and it has become
the favourite residence of the present governor; and when compared to the
government-house at Sydney, well merits his choice.
Swallows were numerous at this season of the year, and were now busily
engaged in constructing their nests under the eves of houses; the nests
differ from those of the European species, in having a bottle-shaped neck.
I had no opportunity of ascertaining whether the species were the same;
but from casual observation I should think they were different. When
these little birds are not in the vicinity of the dwellings of man, they
construct their nests in the hollow trunks of trees, or under overhanging
rocks, but always seem to prefer the society or protection of the human
race: many are seen busily engaged in the construction of a nest,
forming a “co-operative society;” when the nests are constructed in a
situation about the dwelling, where, being built of mud, the appearance
is unsightly, they are frequently knocked down; but this will not deter
the industrious little creatures from re-building in the same situations,
until, being repeatedly destroyed, they are obliged to seek for another
place of refuge.