[Illustration: _From a Sketch by G. Bennett._ _Pub: by R. Bentley,
London, 1834._ _T. Clark, sc._
_Bugong Mountain_]
WANDERINGS
IN
NEW SOUTH WALES,
BATAVIA, PEDIR COAST, SINGAPORE,
AND CHINA;
BEING
THE JOURNAL OF A NATURALIST
IN THOSE COUNTRIES, DURING 1832, 1833, AND 1834.
BY
GEORGE BENNETT, ESQ. F.L.S.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, &c.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in Ordinary to his Majesty.
1834.
LONDON:
IBOTSON AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.
PREFACE.
The Work now given to the Public is the result of a series of recent
excursions into the interior of the Colony of New South Wales, at
intervals of disengagement from professional duties, and at periods of
the year best calculated for observations in natural history. To this
are added a detail of such incidents as appeared to the Author worthy of
notice, while visiting Batavia, Singapore, China, &c. on his return to
England.
The writer in his narrative has limited himself principally, if not
entirely, to the notes taken at the instant of observation, his object
being to relate facts in the order they occurred; and, without regard to
studied composition, to impart the information he has been enabled to
collect in simple and unadorned language, avoiding, as much as possible,
the technicalities of science.
LONDON, JUNE, 1834.
CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
Island of Porto Santo—Madeira—The Desertas Islands—Town of
Funchal—The Physalia, or Portuguese man of war—Description
of that animal—An experiment—Effects of the Physalia’s
sting—Method of preserving the animal—Land in sight—Approach to
the Cape Verd Islands—Islands of Mayo and St. Jago—Anchor at
Porto Praya—The town—Famine—Novel method of Fishing—Tropical
trees and other plants—Valley of St. Trinidad—The
monkey bread-tree—Springs of water—Severe drought—Negro
Huts—Plantations—The gigantic boabab-tree—Residence of Don F.
Melo—The Orchilla weed—Date palms—Leave the island 1
CHAPTER II.
Enter the tropics—Flying fish—Luminosity of the
ocean—Magnificent scene—Phosphoric light—Interesting facts in
elucidation of that phenomenon—Albicores and Bonitos—A colossal
whale—Sea birds—Gigantic species of Albatross—Description of
those birds—Their manner of flight 28
CHAPTER III.
Sombre appearance of the Australian coast—Feelings of an
emigrant on approaching it—Improvement of Sydney—Fruits
produced in the colony—Extent of the town—Cultivation
of flowers and culinary vegetables—House-rent—The
streets—Parrots—Shops—Impolicy of continuing the colony as
a penal settlement—The theatre—Aspect of the country in the
vicinity of Sydney—The grass tree—Floral beauties—Larva
of a curious insect—The colonial museum—Visit to Elizabeth
Bay—Valuable botanical specimens in the garden of the
Honourable Alexander Macleay—New Zealand flax—Articles
manufactured from that vegetable—Leave Sydney—Residence of Mr.
M’Arthur—Forest flowers—Acacias—Paramatta—Swallows 50
CHAPTER IV.
Road from Paramatta to Liverpool—Arrival at Raby Farm—The
opossum—Prisoners and free men—Advantage of being sentenced
to an iron gang—London pickpockets converted into
Shepherds—Suggestion with regard to the convicts—Leave Raby—Mr.
Jones’s farm—Cultivation of the vine—Sameness of the forest
scenery in Australia—Lose our way—Journey resumed—Gloomy
appearance of the Australian vegetation—The tea tree—Colonial
farms—Emu-ford—Blue Mountain range—The Pilgrim Inn—View
from Lapstone Hill—Variety of flowering shrubs—A beautiful
garden—Road over the Blue Mountains—Picturesque prospects—A
mountain station—Bleak air of the place—Our supper 84
CHAPTER V.
Our journey resumed—The new road—Road-side
flowers—Blackheath—The pass through Mount Vittoria—Talent and
perseverance of Major Mitchell, the surveyor-general—Appearance
of an iron gang—Leave the Blue Mountain range—Arrive at
Collet’s Inn—Resume our journey towards Dabee—New line
of road—Aspect of the country—Arrival at Mr. Walker’s
farm—Residence of Mr. Dalhunty—Huge mounds of clay—Blackman’s
Crown—Gum-trees—Bush travelling—Encamp for the night—Caution to
travellers—Cherry-tree Hill—A deserted station—Encampment of
Aborigines—The musk duck—Produce of Mr. Cox’s dairy-farm—Mount
Brace—Infanticide—Custom of native women relative to their
dead offspring—Native practice of midwifery—Animal called the
Cola—Belief in the doctrine of metempsychosis 104
CHAPTER VI.
Cross the country to Goulbourn Plains—A road-gang
stockade—Splendid view—The old Bathurst road—Sidmouth
valley—Brisbane valley—Squash field—Bolam Creek—Turril,
turril—Gum resin—Swampy country—Mr. Cowper’s
farm—Anecdotes—Distant view of Goulburn Plains—Mr. Bradley’s
estate—Cross the plains—Hospitable reception at Cardross—The
Manna tree—Failure in rearing the tulip tree 132
CHAPTER VII.
Appearance among the natives of a disease resembling the
small-pox—Origin and progress of that malady among the
aborigines—Medical investigations—Plan of treatment—Variety
of forms assumed by the disease—Its duration—The critical
period—Dr. Mair’s report 148
CHAPTER VIII.
Bredalbane Plains—Forest country—Cockatoos and parrots—Peculiar
species of the lizard tribe—Medicinal trees—Bark of the wattle
trees—Mr. Manton’s farm—Picturesque view—Yas Plains—Encampment
of natives—Stringy bark, or box tree—Use of that tree—Native
method of cooking—The Australian negro—Game—The flying
squirrel—Human chimney ornaments—Cloaks of opossum or kangaroo
skins—Barbarous ceremonies—Women not admitted to the confidence
of the males 162
CHAPTER IX.
Perch, and other fish—An elegant couple—Kangaroo dogs—Black
and white cockatoos—Vegetable productions—Mr. O’Brien’s
farm—Herds of cattle—Bush life—Proceed towards the
Murrumbidgee river—A bush track—Romantic country—Arrive on
the banks of the Murrumbidgee—Cross the river—Swamp oaks,
and other trees—Remarkable caves—Return to Yas—Superstitious
ceremonies—Crystal used in the cure of diseases—Mode of
employing it 179
CHAPTER X.
Leave Yas Plains for Sydney—Mr. Shelley’s farm—Splendid new
road—Mr. Barber’s farm—Shoalhaven gullies—Interesting spot—Mr.
Campbell’s farm—Journey resumed—Settlement of Bong, Bong—Bargo
Brush—Profusion of flowering shrubs—View from the summit of
Mount Prudhoe—The cow pasture road—Farms of Mr. M’Arthur, and
Captain Coghill—Flowers—The white cedar—Government hospital at
Liverpool 195
CHAPTER XI.
Second Journey into the interior commenced—Land of roses—The
grape-vine—Foreign grain—Missionary rewards—Bargo brush—Small
species of Lobster—Another species—Snakes—Leeches—Mr.
Button’s farm—Proceed on the journey to Gudarigby—Native
plants—Magnificent mountain view—Our repast—The laughing
jackass—A spacious cavern—Its interior—Black swans and other
birds 208
CHAPTER XII.
Native dogs—Their tenacity of life—Return to Yas
Plains—The Australian raspberry—Native cherry-tree—The
summer season—Tree hoppers—Their clamour—Gannets—Country
about the Tumat river—Bugolong—The Black range—A
storm—Vicinity of rivers—Native blacks—Their costume and
weapons—Wheat-fields—Destructive birds—Winding course of the
Murrumbidgee 231
CHAPTER XIII.
Devoted attachment of Women—Remarkable instance of this,
exemplified in the tale of an Australian savage—Journey
resumed—Botanical productions—The Munne-munne range—Luxuriant
Plain—Mr. Warby’s farm—The bell bird—Junction of the
Murrumbidgee and Tumat rivers—Native names of rivers—Soil—River
cod—Aquatic fowl—The Tumat country—Fertility of the
plains—Assigned servants—A mountainous range—The Murrumbidgee
Pine—Geological character of the vicinity—Mr. Rose’s cattle
station 247
CHAPTER XIV.
Wooded hills—Base of the Bugong mountains—Multitudes of
the Bugong moths—Timber trees and granite rocks—Snow
mountains—Method of collecting the moths—Use of these
insects—Crows—Height of the Bugong mountains—The
aborigines—Dread of ridicule in the females—Native fine
arts—Lyre-bird of the colonists—Destruction of kangaroos and
emus—The station of Been—Sanguinary skirmishes—A fertile
plain—Cattle paths—Shrubs on the banks of the Tumat 265
CHAPTER XV.
Kangaroo hunt—Ferocity of that animal—Use of its
tendons—The culinary parts—Haunts of the kangaroo—A
death struggle—Dissection of a kangaroo—Preservation of
human fat—Ascent of trees in pursuit of game—Parrots and
cockatoos—The emu—The native porcupine—Species of ophthalmia,
termed the blight—Leave the Tumat country—Banks of the
Murrumbidgee—Aborigines—Water gum-tree—Kangaroo-rat—The
fly-catcher—The satin bird—Sheep stations—Colonial industry 283
CHAPTER XVI.
Flocks of pelicans and grey parrots—Arrive at Jugiong—A busy
scene—The harvest—Quails and Hawks—Mr. Hume’s farm—Domestic
life among the settlers—Miss my way in the forest—Mr. Reddal’s
farm—Disease called the Black Leg—Mr. Bradley’s residence at
Lansdowne Park—Drooping manna trees—Christmas festival—Mr.
F. M’Arthur’s farm—Aboriginal tribes—Native costume—Noisy
revelry—Wild ducks and pigeons—Spiders 310
CHAPTER XVII.
Arrive at Wombat Brush—Animals called Wombat—Parched
country—Road-side houses—Colonial English—Column to
the memory of La Perouse—Death of Le Receveur—Sydney
police-office—The Bustard—Botanic garden—The aborigines—King
Bungaree—The castor-oil shrub—Diseases of Australia—New
Zealanders—Australian ladies—Prejudice against travellers
from Botany Bay—Anecdote—A fishing excursion—Cephalopodous
animals—Conclusion of the author’s researches in this colony 329
CHAPTER XVIII.
Leave Sydney—Rottenest Island—Colonial prospects—Voyage to
Batavia—Prince’s Island—The Java coast—Anchor in Batavia
roads—The river—Alligators—Streets of Batavia—M. Choulan’s
tavern—Forests—Java ponies—A veterinary monkey—Public
buildings—The traveller’s tree—Celebrated Javanese chief—Sketch
of his life and actions—Exactions of the Dutch government—The
orang-utan—Society in Batavia—Animals of Java—Doves—Dried
specimen of the hippocampus 346
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Batavia and anchor off Hoorn Island—Islands
about the Bengal Passage—Gingiong roads—Lofty aspect
of the land—The coast—The golden mountain—Island of
Sumatra—Aspect of the country—The lover’s leap—Village of
Pedir—Ships of the Acheenese Rajah—Visit to the Rajah—Dense
vegetation—Buffaloes—Ba Assan trees—Hall of reception—Interview
with his Highness—Commercial negociations—Curiosity of
the natives—The Areka or Betel-nut—Flowering shrubs and
plants—Rice-planting—Return to the ship—A prohibition 375
CHAPTER XX.
Visit from the young Rajah—Native weapons—Costume—The
“trading minister” and his boy—Inspection of the ship by
the natives—Population of the Pedir district—Rambles on the
coast—King Crabs—Land crabs—Ova of fish—Soldier crabs—Their
food—The Rajah’s house—Cocoa-nut water—Habitations in
the Rajah’s inclosure—The fort—The bazaar—Banks of the
river—Plants—Native fishing—Fruits—The country farther
inland—Vegetation—The Eju Palm—A fine plain 395
CHAPTER XXI.
Country about Pedir—“White Lions”—The rajah’s habits—A
decision—Ornaments for the ear—Female curiosity—The rajah’s
horses—War between the rajah of Acheen and the rajah of
Trumong—A native’s account of the quarrel—Purchase of
betel-nut—The Areka-nut—Trade in that article—Anecdote—A
Chittagong brig—Dried fish—Beautiful appearance of the Golden
Mountain—Assemblage of the mountains—Tornados—The fire
king and his demons—Yamora—Burial-ground—Large tree—Small
crabs—Game called Mein Achu—Leprosy—Party of natives—The
Viverra musanga—Applications for medicine—Rajah of Putu—His
retinue—Object of his visit 416
WANDERINGS IN NEW SOUTH WALES, _&c._
CHAPTER I.
Island of Porto Santo—Madeira—The Desertas Islands—Town of
Funchal—The Physalia, or Portuguese man of war—Description
of that animal—An experiment—Effects of the Physalia’s
sting—Method of preserving the animal—Land in sight—Approach to
the Cape Verd Islands—Islands of Mayo and St. Jago—Anchor at
Porto Praya—The town—Famine—Novel method of Fishing—Tropical
trees and other plants—Valley of St. Trinidad—The
monkey bread-tree—Springs of water—Severe drought—Negro
Huts—Plantations—The gigantic boabab-tree—Residence of Don F.
Melo—The Orchilla weed—Date palms—Leave the island.
On the 15th of May 1832, the island of Porto Santo, in latitude 35° 5′
north, longitude 16° 5′ west, was seen bearing south-west, half-south,
at the distance of forty miles from the ship “Brothers,” Captain Towns,
bound to New South Wales, eleven days having elapsed since leaving
Plymouth, from whence we had taken our departure. The appearance of the
island, when we had reached to within seven or eight miles of it, was
generally barren, varied by an occasional verdant patch scattered over
the rugged rocks, which terminated in steep cliffs to the water’s edge.
On the following morning at daylight, the dark towering land of
Madeira[1] was visible, rising like a huge black mass from the blue
water. By eight A.M. we were in the passage between the south-east side
of Madeira and the group of islands known as the Desertas, sailing, with
a light and agreeable breeze, from the eastward, which enabled us to
have an excellent view both of the former islands and Madeira; and as
our progress seemed to be quicker than would have been expected from our
gentle zephyrs, we were probably also aided by a current.[2]
The passage between the Desertas and Madeira is considered to be about
eleven miles across. The Desertas stretch nearly north-north-west and
south-south-east, and may be five leagues in extent; they have an abrupt,
barren appearance, with steep, rugged, perpendicular rocks descending to
the sea; on the largest island there was some appearance of cultivation,
and the _tufa_, or red volcanic ash, imparts that colour to several
parts of the island; there is a high pyramidal rock, resembling a needle
or pillar, situated about the north-west part of the group, which at a
distance is like a ship under sail.
By eight A.M. the heat of the sun had dissipated the gloomy mist which
had previously been pending over and concealing the beautiful features
of the island of Madeira, and caused it to burst forth in all its
luxuriance and beauty; the northern part of the island had a very sombre,
barren aspect, when compared with the fertility of the southern; the
plantations, glowing in varied tints, interspersed with neat white villas
and small villages, gave much animation and picturesque beauty to the
scene.
Early in the morning is the time best calculated to view the island
clearly, as the sun, gradually emerging from the dense masses of clouds
which have previously enveloped the towering mountains, gilds their
summits, and, gradually spreading its rays over the fertile declivities,
enlivens and renders distinct the splendid prospect afforded to the
voyager. As the sun, however, acquires a stronger power, its proximity
to a wide expanse of waters soon causes a mist to arise by which the
clearness of the view from the sea is much obstructed.
As we approached, the town of Funchal opened to our view, the white
habitations rising like an amphitheatre, and the hills around, covered
by the variegated tints of a luxuriant vegetation: the whole appearance
of the island was such, as to be well calculated to excite the most
agreeable sensations of delight at any time, but more especially after
the eye has enjoyed for a time only the prospect of sea and sky.
As it was not our intention to touch at this island, in the course of
the day we had passed and left it far in the distance. We spoke off the
island one of Don Pedro’s blockading squadron; it was a brig mounting
eighteen guns, filled with such a motley crew as one may expect to see
in a piratical craft. The spokesman informed us that Don Pedro was with
Admiral Sartorius, in a large ship off the north side of the island: we
then parted; they wishing us “un bon voyage,” and we, in return, hoped
they might obtain abundance of prize money, but which we hardly supposed
would ever be realized.
There are various objects well calculated to excite interest to a
naturalist during a long voyage, and to furnish both amusement and
instruction. The splendid _Physalia_, or “Portuguese man of war,”[3] is
often seen floating by the ship; the inflated, or bladder portion of this
molluscous animal, glowing in delicate crimson tints, floats upon the
waves, whilst the long tentaculæ of a deep purple colour extend beneath,
as snares to capture its prey. It is oftentimes amusing to see persons
eager to secure the gaudy prize; but they find, by painful experience,
that, like many other beautiful objects of the creation, they possess
hidden torments; for no sooner have they grasped the tinted and curious
animal, than, encircling its long filiform appendages over the hands and
fingers of its capturer, it inflicts such pungent pain by means of an
acrid fluid discharged from them, as to cause him to drop the prize, and
attend to the smarting occasioned by it.
This beautiful molluscous animal inhabits the tropical seas, and is
also seen in high latitudes during the summer months[4] of the year.
When first removed from the water, it excites the admiration of the
spectators by the elegant and vivid colours with which it is adorned.
These tints, however, are as evanescent as they are brilliant; and soon
after this animal is taken from its native element, the crest sinks; the
bright crimson, green, and purple tints lose their brilliancy, and the
beauty which had previously excited so much admiration fades, and at
last totally vanishes. There are a number of species of the genus;[5]
but the one most commonly seen is the _Physalia pelagica_ of Lamarck,
(_Holothuria physalis_ of Linn.) They are known to our seamen as the
“Portuguese men of war,” and galére or frégate among the French, from
having some resemblance to a small vessel resting tranquilly on the
surface of the water during a calm, at which time they are more readily
discerned than during strong breezes: they have also been confounded by
many persons unacquainted with natural history with the _Nautilus_.
The figure of this species is somewhat ovate; the upper portion resembles
an inflated bladder, rounded at one extremity, and with a beak-like
termination at the other. On the summit or back is a crest or ridge,
slightly elevated, sulcated, and fringed at the edges: the whole of
this part of the animal is of a light blue, with occasional streaks of
delicate sea-green, and tinged with brilliant crimson: this portion of
the animal is filled with air, and, although I have heard it frequently
asserted that the animal has the voluntary power of collapsing the
bladder on the approach of tempestuous, or inflating it on a return of
fine weather, yet I do not credit the remark, considering it is more
probably a seaman’s tale than the result of a naturalist’s observation.
On examination, no apparatus is found by which such an effect could
be produced; and if it actually possesses such a power, why is it not
exercised in every moment of peril?—for, when we approach the animal
to capture it, or when it is taken from the water, no such change
occurs; the bladder still remains inflated, and can be preserved thus
distended either in a dried state or by placing it in alcohol. During
strong breezes, I have seen them floating on the waves; but, from the
ship passing at that time rapidly through the water, they are then more
rarely observed. I have also seen them thrown in tempestuous weather on
the beach at New South Wales, the bladder portion of the animal still
remaining inflated. From these, and other reasons which might be adduced,
the assertion cannot be considered as the result of actual observation.
Situated at the under portion of the animal is a mass of tentaculæ, some
short and thick, others long, filiform, and extending to several yards
in length: these seem to consist of a chain of globules, filled with an
extremely acrid fluid: in colour, they are of a beautiful purple, with
an admixture of crimson; and they are covered by a glutinous substance,
having a peculiar odour. The inflated membrane is probably intended to
keep the animal buoyant on the water, by which it is readily enabled to
extend its long tentaculæ in search of prey, or it may be designed as a
locomotive agent, aiding the animal in its progress over the “vast bosom
of the ocean,”—thus serving the purpose of a sail. It is said that the
appearance of the _Physalia_ near to the sea-coast is the indication of
an approaching tempest.[6]
Having captured a very fine specimen of this animal on a former voyage
in latitude 9° 0′ south, and longitude 12° 59′ west, and being aware of
the pungent property residing in the tentaculæ, I was desirous of trying
its effects on myself, for the purpose of ascertaining from personal
experience the constitutional irritative effects resulting from it.
On taking hold of the animal it raised its tentaculæ, and stung me on
the second and ring fingers. The sensation was similar at first to
that produced by the nettle; but before a few minutes had elapsed, a
violent aching pain succeeded, affecting more severely the joints of
the fingers, the stinging sensation at the same time continuing at the
part first touched by the acrid fluid. On cold water being applied, with
the intention of removing or lessening the pain, it was found rather
to increase than diminish the effects. The irritation resulting from
the poisonous fluid emitted by the animal extended upwards, increasing
in extent and severity, (apparently acting along the course of the
nerves,) and in the space of a quarter of an hour, the effect in the
fore-arm (more particularly felt at the inner part) was very violent,
and at the elbow-joint still more so. It may be worthy of remark, that
when the joints became affected the pain always increased. It became
at last almost unbearable, and was much heightened on the affected arm
being moved; the pulse of that arm was also much accelerated, and an
unnatural heat was felt over its whole surface. The pain extended to the
shoulder-joint; and on the pectoral muscle becoming attacked by the same
painful sensation, an oppression of breathing was occasioned, which we
find similarly produced by rheumatism, when it attacks that muscle; and
it proved very distressing during the time it remained. The continuance
of the pain was very severe for nearly half an hour, after which it
gradually abated, but the after effects were felt during the remainder of
the day in a slight degree of numbness and increased temperature of the
arm.
About two hours after I had been stung, I perceived that a vesicle had
arisen on the spot; and when children have been stung, I observed that
numerous small vesicles arose, similar to those produced by the nettle.
The intensity of the effects produced depends on the size and consequent
power of the animal; and after it has been for some time removed from
the water, it is found that the stinging property has diminished. This
irritative property, unattended, however, by any of the constitutional
effects, remains for a long time in the tentaculæ, even after they have
been removed from the animal; for on touching a handkerchief some weeks
after it had been used in wiping off some portions of the tentaculæ, the
stinging property was found to have remained, although it had lost that
virulent quality, which produced on a recent application such violent
constitutional irritation.
This irritative secretion does not, however, exist solely in this species
of mollusca; several of the _medusæ_ have similar properties, which
may perhaps be considered as both offensive and defensive; and it has
been, and no doubt correctly, supposed to be given to these animals as a
means of procuring their food, the benumbing principle existing in the
tentaculæ rendering their prey when touched unable to escape. For what
purpose this acrid property is found existing in the vegetable kingdom,
it is difficult to decide, and all that has yet been said on the subject
may be considered as merely hypothetical. For instance, at the island of
Singapore there is a remarkable species of the order Fuci, usually found
growing in isolated patches upon coral banks. Finlayson thus mentions it:
“It is pinnated, plumose, elegant, about a foot and a half in length,
and of a whitish colour. It is endued with a property of stinging like
nettles; the sensation produced is more acute and more penetrating, more
instantaneous, but somewhat more permanent. The hand is scarcely brought
into contact with it, before the wound is inflicted. A small corrugated
granular bag, filled with a transparent fluid, would seem to be the organ
by which it produces this effect. These are no sooner touched than they
discharge the fluid they contain. The plant soon loses this power after
being removed from the water.” This plant seems, therefore, to possess an
offensive or defensive property analogous to that of the _Physalia_, but
for what purpose it would be difficult to form an opinion.
The usual method adopted for the preservation of this curious and
beautiful mollusca is by placing it in spirits; the form is thus well
preserved; but its vivid tints, the subject of so much admiration, are
totally lost. As it is with the beautiful but evanescent colour of
flowers, no method has been discovered by which their natural brilliancy
can be preserved, and it is impossible to retain that peculiar brightness
given only by life and health. I have preserved the animal by detaching
the tentacute from the bladder; (on account of their being too soft
and perishable to enable them to be dried, _en masse_, with any chance
of success; their form only being preserved well in spirits;) then
permitting the air to escape from the bladder, dried, pressed, and
afterwards gummed on paper, it produces a good lateral view of the form
of this mollusca; the colours being afterwards artificially renewed by
the pencil, and the tentaculæ underneath drawn and coloured, the _tout
ensemble_ conveys an idea of the brilliant appearance of the animal,
as far as can be produced by art. I have also kept the animal with the
bladder inflated, dried it in that state, and, by afterwards colouring
it, the appearance produced is very excellent; but, it is only by
repeated trials that the best and most accurate methods of preserving
objects of natural history can be discovered—the greatest difficulty
existing, being that of preserving them accurately in their natural
appearance.
We had the N. E. trade in lat. 28° N. and long. 18° 11′ W. and at three
P.M. of the 25th made the “Northern Saddle Hill,” (N. W. hill,) on the
island of Sal, (Cape Verd group,) bearing S. E. about six leagues distant.
The announcement of “land in sight,” and the delightful sensations
produced by it, can only be appreciated by those who have for some length
of time been tossed about on the “deep, deep sea,” for many a weary day,
with nothing but sea and sky to gaze upon. All hasten on deck as soon as
the land is stated to be visible; at first its rather indistinct form,
as it rises from the horizon, does not excite so much interest; but, on
a nearer approach, the variously tinted strata of the lofty mountains
become visible, and plantations, trees, shrubs, and neat habitations
cheer the eye; and, on landing, a profusion of the floral beauties of
the vegetable kingdom, with butterflies vieing with them in splendour
of tints, or several species of the coleoptera tribe decked in golden
armour, meet the eye. But the approach to the Cape Verd islands does
not possess these beauties in any profusion—barren volcanic mountains,
contrasted occasionally only by a few others of a verdant character are
seen instead; even these become an agreeable prospect, being a change
from the monotony of a ship, but a departure from them, after a few days’
sojourn, is attended with but little if any regret.
On the 26th, at daylight, we sailed with a pleasant breeze between the
island of Mayo and that of St. Jago; the former distant about ten, the
latter about eighteen miles; the western side of Mayo had a very sterile
appearance; there was not a tree or speck of verdure to be seen. The
lofty mountain of St. Antonio, on the island of St. Jago, was visible;
its declivities verdant, but the peaked summit was for the most part
hidden by clouds. As we coasted along the latter island, the feature
of the coast was very barren, although it was occasionally relieved by
a small verdant valley, diversified by some miserable huts and a few
stunted cocoa-nut trees. In the afternoon we anchored at Porto Praya,[7]
about a quarter of a mile distant from the shore.
After dinner we paid a visit to the shore; the landing-place is very
inconvenient, and often dangerous, from the surf, which at this time was
fortunately not high. After landing we had to walk over a soft sandy
road, varied only by large stones coming in contact with our feet, and
assuring us of their presence by the pain they occasioned. Several
miserable date palms and dusty plants of _Aloe perfoliata_ (a few of the
latter being in flower) grew by the road side. Then by a winding and
steep ascent, covered by loose stones, we arrived at the town, which
is built upon a table land of moderate elevation, and on this side of
the approach there is a battery mounting twenty-one guns. From the
descriptions I had previously perused, the town appears to have been
much improved since they had been written, but still it has nothing of
interest to recommend it; but the view of the bay and shipping from the
elevated site is very pretty. The Plaza (in which the American consul
resides, and where there is a small church, which as yet cannot boast
of a steeple,) contains the best houses and stores, where almost any
supplies of foreign manufacture can be purchased, but at exorbitant
prices.
At the period of our visit, this, together with the whole of the islands
of the group were suffering from a severe and long drought; this one,
from its fertility, and the irrigation that is capable of being produced,
as well as from imports, is in a better condition than the others. At
the island of Fuego, more particularly, the inhabitants were said to be
dying daily in great numbers, from famine. The island of St. Jago alone
is stated to have a population of 27,000 inhabitants.
I observed several boats engaged in fishing near the ship, previous to
our landing, and their mode of capturing the finny tribe appeared to me
novel; they sprinkled something over the water, like crumbs of bread,
that attracted the fish (which were five or six inches long) to the
surface in shoals; the fishermen then swept amongst them a stick to which
a number of short lines and hooks were attached, and by aid of this they
usually brought up several fish at a time. After the fish were caught,
some women, who were in the boat, were engaged in cleansing and salting
them.
Tired of the dull village, we descended from the elevated site to a
garden in which the well was situated whence the supply of water of
excellent quality is procured for shipping. At this spot the plantain,
date, papaw, and cocoa-nut trees, attracted the attention of those of
our party who had never before seen these magnificent tropical trees.
The sides of the paths were adorned with the gay and handsome flowers of
the _Poinciana pulcherrima_, and the more elevated lilac tree (_Melia
azedarack_) profusely covered with its long panicles of fragrant flowers.
As we rambled further into the scrubby parts beyond this cultivated
spot, cotton shrubs, (_Gossypium herbaceum_,) the thorny _Zizyphus_ and
_mimosas_ were abundant. The _Jatropha curcas_ was used for hedges, and a
handsome _asclepias_ (procera?) called bombadero by the Portuguese, was
abundant about this waste land, both in fruit and flower: the flowers
are succeeded by a large somewhat oval fruit, containing a quantity of
pretty feathered seeds; the whole plant (like all the family to which
this belongs) abounds in a viscid milky juice; the capsule of the pod is
elegantly veined, reminding the anatomist of the veins displayed on the
exterior of the heart.
On the following morning a small party was formed for an excursion to the
valley of St. Trinidad, to gain some idea, if possible, of the fertile
portions of this apparently very sterile island. This valley, it may be
said, commences soon after descending the table land on which the town is
situated. We diverged from the direct road, for the purpose of visiting
a plantation about a mile and a half distant from the town. The road
was stony, and there was nothing in the aspect of the country around to
relieve the eye; a few stunted _Mimosæ_, (occasionally varied by a few
of the same species of large dimensions and great age,) some stunted
_Zizyphi_, and a few trailing plants of _Convolvulus soldanella_, which,
by its dark green leaves and purplish flowers, contrasted in a beautiful
manner with the sterile brown soil of the scorched plains. The plantation
we visited was not yet in order; it contained some flourishing coffee
plants, with cocoa, plantain, cashew-nut, and other tropical trees; but
the principal object of my visit was to view a specimen of the _Adansonia
digitata_, or monkey bread tree, and its very peculiar appearance and
growth imparted much gratification; it was about eighteen or twenty
feet high, and twenty-one feet in circumference. This tree was in full
foliage, and its bright green digitated leaves imparted much animation to
it. The tree is surrounded to some depth by a spongy sap. As subsequently
at the valley I saw a much larger specimen of this gigantic tree, but
destitute of foliage, I shall then return to its description, and add
a sketch. From this part of the island I collected but few plants;
_Momordica senegalensis_ grew wild about the fertile parts, as well as
_Lotus jacobæus_, _Tribulus cistoides_, _Asclepias_, (procera?) and a
very pretty _convolvulus_, with lilac flowers, climbed over rocks and
trees in good soil.
From this place we proceeded to our destination. The sun was fervent,
but the inconvenience was in some degree mitigated by a delightful
north-east trade breeze. We passed over scorched plains, about which a
few stunted bushes of _mimosa_ were scattered, and at other places some
wretched trees of _Jatropha curcas_. In a small vale we passed a rivulet
of delicious water, at which several negresses were busily engaged in
washing linen. The springs of water appear excellent, and there seems
to be no deficiency of it in the valleys; but the want of rain is often
severely felt: it was stated to me, that during the previous twenty
months only half an inch has fallen on this island.
Continuing our journey, we passed several negroes conveying their
produce, consisting of fruit, vegetables, orchilla weed, &c. to the
town for sale, upon asses, with panniers made from bullocks’ hides. The
animals seemed in excellent condition, at which we were not a little
surprised, from what we had seen of the sterility of the soil. A few
cattle were also seen wandering over the plains, where barely a speck of
verdure tinged the barren volcanic rocks, still the animals were sleek,
and in tolerable condition; we therefore came to the conclusion that
they were turned out to feed, or, what was much more likely, to view the
country and fast during the day, and driven home to feed at night.
We pursued our dreary path, occasionally passing a few negro huts, and
refreshing ourselves with some delicious goats’ milk. As we came upon the
fertile portion of this valley, the change of scene was certainly most
agreeable; the brown-parched soil which we had been so long previously
alone regarding, now gave place to the verdant plantations of sugar-cane,
manioc, and various European and tropical esculent vegetables, which
gave a rich and animated character to the scene. The plantations were
also interspersed with a great variety of tropical fruit trees, such as
orange, lemon, guava plantain, tamarind, custard apple, &c. The tamarind
trees were stunted, compared with the luxuriant and elegant growth of
those trees in India; they were, however, laden with ripe fruit, whose
powerful acid soon set the teeth on edge of such of our party as were
induced to partake of them.
[Illustration]
Several trees of the Boabab, or monkey bread-tree, (_Adansonia
digitata_,) were now seen, and among them one was particularly
conspicuous from its size, as also from a resemblance to the union of
three trees. This tree was destitute of foliage, but that loss was
compensated by the curious character it assumed, being covered with fruit
pending from a long, twisted, spongy stalk, varying in length from one
to two feet. This tree measured forty feet in circumference, and was
about sixty feet high; the bark was smooth, and of a greyish colour; the
termination of its larger branches is remarkable, from being abruptly
rounded, and from these rounded extremities the smaller branches are
given off, as may be seen in the accompanying drawing; this forms a very
characteristic feature in the tree. The fruit, on the outer shell being
broken, contained not the yellow pulp usually mentioned, but a white
farinaceous substance enveloping the dark brown seeds, of an agreeable
acidulated taste. This may proceed from the fruit being old. The fruit
is of an oval form, usually six inches in length, and three or four
in diameter; rough externally, and, when mature, of a brownish yellow
colour; a dark red gum exuded from the outer part of the fruit.[8]
Some of the farms and plantations were in very fine and luxuriant
condition, and this was an enjoyment to us after the arid country we
had before seen, destitute almost of vegetation, and covered with loose
stones. Of the feathered tribe, although not very numerous, a few were
shot by one of the party, among which were two specimens of _Halcyon
senegalensis_, and a fine hawk; quails and Guinea fowls (_Numida
meleagris_, Linn.) were abundant, and several of the former were also
shot; the crow and several species of _Fringillæ_ were likewise seen. In
the afternoon we returned to the town. The population consists for the
most part of mulattos and negroes: fruit, including plantains, bananas,
oranges, and pine-apples, was abundant, but not yet fully in season.
Among the very few decent houses in this paltry town, was one, the
residence of a Don F. Melo, (who speculates in orchilla weed,) situated
in the Plaza, which displays taste and neatness both in the exterior and
interior of its arrangement: on the lower land, behind the house, he has
laid out with much labour an extensive garden, well irrigated, and in
which European and tropical vegetables, fruits, and elegant flowering
plants, were thriving in luxuriance, and sufficiently proved that even
in that sterile spot, industry and perseverance could surmount almost
any difficulty. At the house of this gentleman, I had an opportunity
of seeing some excellent specimens of the orchilla weed; this valuable
production of the vegetable kingdom is indigenous to this and other
islands of the group, as well as to Madeira, the Canaries, and the coast
of Barbary; it is the _Roccella tinctoria_ of botanists,[9] and is
held in high estimation for the purplish dye it yields, and I believe,
excepting the cochineal, is the only dye that possesses a mordant in
itself. This lichen is of a gray colour, and those plants which are of
the darkest hue, long and strong, are considered the best; it grows to a
great length, but is rarely obtained so, as the natives gather it before
it comes to any size, on account of its high value.
The quantity collected in one year, among the whole of this group of
islands, was 537,600 lbs.; but sometimes a larger quantity is obtained,
when, not having much work upon the plantations, the negroes can be
employed for the purpose.[10] It is found on the steep rocks in the
interior of the islands, and growing in the crevices; the finest orchilla
is collected at the island of St. Antonio, where it grows in some places
so inaccessible as to be only procured by lowering the gatherer down the
cliffs by ropes. This lichen is exported only to Lisbon, there being an
order from the Portuguese government to that effect, but quantities were
often smuggled direct to some foreign port.[11]
Date palms were very numerous in the vicinity of the town, but did not
appear to attain any high degree of perfection, or bear fruit, and were
used, for what they alone seemed fit, as firewood.
The troops were decently clad, and consisted of about five hundred,
principally negroes and mulattoes, officered by Europeans.
All arrangements having been completed, we left the island in the
evening, with a fine north-east trade breeze.