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THROUGH CENTRAL BORNEO
AN ACCOUNT OF TWO YEARS' TRAVEL IN THE LAND OF THE HEAD-HUNTERS BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1913 AND 1917
BY
CARL LUMHOLTZ
MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF SCIENCES OF CHRISTIANIA, NORWAY GOLD MEDALLIST OF
THE NORWEGIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY ASSOCIÉ ÉTRANGER DE LA SOCIÉTÉ DE
L'ANTHROPOLOGIE DE PARIS, ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR AND WITH MAP
We may safely affirm that the better specimens of savages are much
superior to the lower examples of civilized peoples.
_Alfred Russel Wallace._
PREFACE
Ever since my camping life with the aborigines of Queensland, many years
ago, it has been my desire to explore New Guinea, the promised land of all
who are fond of nature and ambitious to discover fresh secrets. In
furtherance of this purpose their Majesties, the King and Queen of Norway,
the Norwegian Geographical Society, the Royal Geographical Society of
London, and Koninklijk Nederlandsch Aardrijkskundig Genootschap,
generously assisted me with grants, thus facilitating my efforts to raise
the necessary funds. Subscriptions were received in Norway, also from
American and English friends, and after purchasing the principal part of
my outfit in London, I departed for New York in the autumn of 1913, en
route for the Dutch Indies. In 1914, having first paid a visit to the
Bulungan, in northeast Borneo, in order to engage the necessary Dayaks, I
was preparing to start for Dutch New Guinea when the war broke out.
Under these changed conditions his Excellency, the Governor-General,
A.W.F. Idenburg, regretted his inability to give me a military escort and
other assistance needed for carrying out my plan, and advised me to await
a more favorable opportunity. During this interval, having meanwhile
visited India, I decided to make an expedition through Central Borneo,
large tracts of which are unexplored and unknown to the outside world. My
project was later extended to include other regions of Dutch Borneo, and
the greater part of two years was spent in making researches among its
very interesting natives. In these undertakings I received the valuable
assistance of their Excellencies, the governor-general and the commanding
general, as well as the higher officials of the Dutch Government, to all
of whom I wish to express my heartfelt thanks.
Through the courtesy of the well-known Topografische Inrichting, in
Batavia, a competent surveyor, whose work will later be published, was
attached to my expeditions. He did not accompany me on my first visit to
the Bulungan, nor on the second occasion, when I went to the lake of
Sembulo, where the country is well known. In the map included in this book
I have indicated the locations of the different tribes in Dutch Borneo,
based on information gathered from official and private sources and on my
own observations.
I usually had a taxidermist, first a trained Sarawak Dayak, later a
Javanese, to collect mammals and birds. Fishes and reptiles were also
preserved in alcohol.
Specimens of ethnological interest were collected from the different
tribes visited; the collection from the Penihings I believe is complete.
Measurements of 227 individuals were taken and as soon as practicable will
be worked out by Doctor K.S. Schreiner, professor at the University of
Christiania. Vocabularies were collected from most of the tribes. In spite
of adverse conditions, due to climate and the limitations under which I
travelled, a satisfactory collection of photographic plates and films was
brought back. With few exceptions, these photographs were taken by myself.
For the pictures facing page 26 I am indebted to Doctor J.C.
Koningsberger, President of the Volksraad, Buitenzorg, Java. Those facing
pages 16 and 17 were taken by Mr. J.F. Labohm. The lower picture facing
page 286 was taken by Mr. A.M. Erskine.
My observations on the tribes are recorded in conformity with my itinerary,
and include the Kayans, Kenyahs, Murungs, Penyahbongs, Saputans, the
nomadic Punans and Bukits, Penihings, Oma-Sulings, Long-Glats, Katingans,
Duhoi (Ot-Danums), and the Tamoans. On one or two occasions when gathering
intelligence from natives I was very fortunate in my informants--an
advantage which will be appreciated by any one who has undertaken a similar
errand and has enjoyed the keen satisfaction experienced when drawing the
veil from primitive thought which lies so near and yet so far away.
Circumstances naturally prevented me from making a thorough study of any
tribe, but I indulge the hope that the material here presented may prove
in some degree acceptable to the specialist as well as to the general
reader. Matter that was thought to be of purely anthropological interest
is presented in a special supplement. Above all, I have abstained from
generalities, to which one might be tempted on account of the many
similarities encountered in the tribes that were visited. Without the
light of experience it is impossible to imagine how much of interest and
delight there is in store for the student of man's primitive condition.
However, as the captain of Long Iram said to me in Long Pahangei, "One
must have plenty of time to travel in Borneo." I have pleasure in
recording here the judicious manner in which the Dutch authorities deal
with the natives.
On a future occasion I shall hope to be able to publish a detailed report
on several of the novel features of my Bornean collections, especially as
regards decorative art, the protective wooden carvings called kapatongs,
the flying boat, etc.
The first collections sent to Norway ran the risks incident to war. Most
of them were rescued from the storehouses at Antwerp after the German
occupation, through the exertions of the Norwegian Foreign Office, though
a smaller part, chiefly zoölogical, appears to have been lost in Genoa.
Count Nils Gyldenstolpe, of the Natural History Museum,
Vetenskapsakademien in Stockholm, who is determining the mammals
collected, informs me that so far a new species of flying maki and two new
subspecies of flying squirrels have been described.
To further my enterprise, liberal gifts of supplies were received from
various firms in Christiania: preserved milk from Nestle & Anglo-Swiss
Condensed Milk Co., tobacco from Tiedemann's Fabrik, alcohol for
preserving specimens from Löitens Braenderi, cacao from Freia Chokolade
Fabrik. A medical outfit was presented by Mr. E. Sissener, Apotheket
"Kronen," Christiania, and Messrs. Burrows, Wellcome & Co., of London,
placed at my disposal three of their excellent medicinal travelling-cases.
I want to express my appreciation of many services rendered by the
Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij and its branches, especially the
Factorij in Batavia. I am under similar obligations to the Koninklijke
Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and my thanks are also due to De Scheepsagentuur
for courtesies received. Miss Ethel Newcomb, of New York, has kindly
transcribed the two songs rendered.
Finally I desire to make grateful acknowledgment of valuable assistance
rendered by Doctor J.C. Koningsberger, and by Doctor W. van Bemmelen,
director of Koninklijk Magnetisch en Meteorologisch Observatorium,
Weltevreden, Batavia.
Although force of circumstances altered the scope and to some extent the
character of this expedition, nevertheless my Bornean experiences afforded
great satisfaction. Moreover, my sojourn in the equatorial regions of the
East has imbued me with an even stronger desire to carry out my original
purpose, which I hope to accomplish in the near future.
CARL LUMHOLTZ
NEW YORK, April, 1920.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
CHAPTER II
BORNEO--CLIMATIC AND BIOLOGICAL CONDITIONS--NATURAL RESOURCES--POPULATION--
HISTORY--GOVERNMENT OF THE NATIVES--RACIAL PROBLEMS.
CHAPTER III
BANDJERMASIN, THE PRINCIPAL TOWN IN DUTCH BORNEO--NORTHWARD ALONG THE EAST
COAST--BALIK PAPAN, AN OIL PRODUCING CENTRE--SAMARINDA--TANDJONG
SELOR--THE SULTAN--UP THE KAYAN RIVER.
CHAPTER IV
AN EXPEDITION INTO THE JUNGLE--FIRST IMPRESSIONS--RAPID CHANGE IN THE
DENSENESS OF VEGETATION--ANIMAL LIFE--A STUBBORN FIGHT
CHAPTER V
MEETING PUNANS, THE SHY JUNGLE PEOPLE--DOWN THE RIVER AGAIN--MY
ENTHUSIASTIC BOATMEN--MALAYS VERSUS DAYAKS
CHAPTER VI
RESUMPTION OF MY JOURNEY UP THE KAYAN RIVER--LONG PANGIAN--BERI-BERI--
HINTS ON PROPER PROVISIONS--KENYAHS FROM CENTRAL BORNEO--EFFECT OF A
SPIDER'S BITE
CHAPTER VII
ON THE ISAU RIVER--A KENYAH CHILD'S FUNERAL--A GREAT FISHING EXPEDITION--
CATCHING FISH BY POISONING THE RIVER--TAKING OMENS--ENTERTAINING SCENES
CHAPTER VIII
THE JOURNEY CONTINUED UP THE KAYAN RIVER--FIRST EXPERIENCE OF KIHAMS,
OR RAPIDS--WITH KENYAH BOATMEN--ADVANTAGE OF NATIVE COOKING--LONG
PELABAN--THE ATTRACTIVE KENYAHS--SOCIAL STRATA--CUSTOMS AND
HABITS--VALUABLE BEADS
CHAPTER IX
HYDROPHOBIA--FUNERAL CEREMONIES--AT A PADDI HARVEST--ANOTHER TUBA-FISHING
EXPEDITION--THE CHARM OF PRIMITIVE MAN--INTERESTING CEREMONIES--ON
HEADHUNTING GROUND
CHAPTER X
IN FOG AND DARKNESS--A RAID BY ANTS--DEPARTURE FROM LONG PELABAN--AN
EXCITING PASSAGE--RETURN TO TAND-JONG SELOR
CHAPTER XI
DEPARTURE FOR BANDJERMASIN--A PLEASANT STEAMSHIP LINE--TWO HEAD-HUNTERS--
AN EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--SAMPIT--THE ORANG-UTAN--STORMY WEATHER--A
DISAGREEABLE RECEPTION
CHAPTER XII
THE WAR CHANGES MY PLANS--CHOLERA--UP THE GREAT BARITO RIVER--PURUK
TJAHU--DECIDE TO STAY AMONG THE MURUNGS--A DANCING FEAST
CHAPTER XIII
DAYAK CURE OF DISEASE-EVIL SPIRITS AND GOOD--ANIMISM--BLIANS, THE
PRIEST-DOCTORS--THE FEAST OF RUBBER-GATHERERS--WEDDINGS--IN PRIMITIVE
SURROUNDINGS
CHAPTER XIV
THE SCALY ANT-EATER--THE PORCUPINE--THE BLOW-PIPE--AN UNUSUAL ADVENTURE
WITH A SNAKE--HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MURUNGS--AN UNPLEASANT AFFAIR
CHAPTER XV
FINAL START FOR CENTRAL BORNEO--CHRISTMAS TIME--EXTENT OF MALAY
INFLUENCE--THE FLOWERS OF EQUATORIAL REGIONS--AT AN OT-DANUM
KAMPONG--THE PICTURESQUE KIHAMS, OR RAPIDS--FORMIDABLE OBSTACLES TO
TRAVEL--MALAYS ON STRIKE
CHAPTER XVI
ARRIVAL AT BAHANDANG--ON THE EQUATOR--A STARTLING ROBBERY--OUR
MOST LABORIOUS JOURNEY--HORNBILLS--THE SNAKE AND THE INTREPID
PENYAHBONG--ARRIVAL AT TAMALOË
CHAPTER XVII
THE PENYAHBONGS, MEN OF THE WOODS--RHINOCEROS HUNTERS--CHARACTERISTICS OF
THE PENYAHBONGS--EASY HOUSEKEEPING--DAILY LIFE--WOMAN'S LOT
CHAPTER XVIII
A STRANGE MAMMAL--ANIMAL LIFE IN CENTRAL BORNEO--A SUPERB AND SILENT
REALM--VISIT TO A SALT WATER EXUDATION--PASSING THE DIVIDING RIDGE--A
MOUSE-DEER CHASE--ON THE KASAO RIVER
CHAPTER XIX
THE SAPUTANS--HOW THE EARS OF THE CHIEF WERE PIERCED--AN UNEXPECTED
ATTACK OF FILARIASIS--DEPARTURE FROM THE SAPUTANS--DOWN THE KASAO
RIVER--"TOBOGGANING" THE KIHAMS
CHAPTER XX
ARRIVAL ON THE MAHAKAM RIVER--AMONG THE PENIHINGS--LONG KAI, A PLEASANT
PLACE--A BLIAN'S SHIELD--PUNANS AND BUKATS, SIMPLE-MINDED NOMADS--EXTREME
PENALTY FOR UNFAITHFULNESS--LONG TJEHAN
CHAPTER XXI
AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER--LONG PAHANGEI--THE OMASULINGS--THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL--HOSPITABLE NATIVES--INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY
CHAPTER XXII
DAYAK DOGS--A FUNERAL ON THE MAHAKAM--OUR RETURN JOURNEY--AGAIN AT LONG
TJEHAN--IN SEARCH OF A UNIQUE ORCHID--A BURIAL CAVE
CHAPTER XXIII
A PROFITABLE STAY--MAGNIFICENT FRUITS OF BORNEO--OMEN BIRDS--THE PENIHINGS
IN DAILY LIFE--TOP PLAYING--RELIGIOUS IDEAS--CURING DISEASE
CHAPTER XXIV
HEAD-HUNTING, ITS PRACTICE AND PURPOSE
CHAPTER XXV
DEPARTURE FROM THE PENIHINGS--FRUIT-EATING FISH--ANOTHER CALL AT LONG
PAHANGEI--A TRIP UP THE MERASI RIVER--GENIAL NATIVES--AN INOPPORTUNE
VISIT--THE DURIAN, QUEEN OF ALL FRUITS
CHAPTER XXVI
AMONG THE LONG-GLATS--IS FEAR OF EXPOSURE TO THE SUN JUSTIFIED?--
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LONG-GLATS--GOODBYE TO THE MAHAKAM
CHAPTER XXVII
CONTINUING THE JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER--GREAT KIHAMS--BATOKELAU--AT
LONG IRAM--LAST STAGES OF OUR JOURNEY--ARRIVAL AT SAMARINDA--HINDU
ANTIQUITIES--NATIVE'S SUPERIORITY TO CIVILISED MAN
CHAPTER XXVIII
AN EARTHQUAKE--ERADICATING THE PLAGUE--THROUGH THE COUNTRY NORTHEAST
OF BANDJERMASIN--MARTAPURA AND ITS DIAMOND-FIELDS--PENGARON--THE GIANT
PIG--THE BUKITS--WELL-PRESERVED DECORATIVE DESIGNS--AN ATTRACTIVE FAMILY
CHAPTER XXIX
THE BALEI OR TEMPLE--A LITTLE KNOWN PART OF THE COUNTRY--A COURTEOUS
MALAY--POWER OVER ANIMALS--NEGARA.
CHAPTER XXX
AN EXPEDITION TO THE KATINGAN RIVER--TATUING OF THE ENTIRE BODY--THE
GATHERING OF HONEY--A PLEASANT INTERMEZZO--AN UNUSUALLY ARTISTIC
PRODUCTION--UP THE SAMBA RIVER--WITH INCOMPETENT BOATMEN
CHAPTER XXXI
AMONG THE DUHOI (OT-DANUMS)--RICH COLLECTIONS--THE KAPATONGS--THE BATHING
OF DAYAK INFANTS--CHRISTMAS EVE--THE FLYING BOAT--MARRIAGE CEREMONIES
CHAPTER XXXII
AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS--FACTS ABOUT ULU-OTS, THE WILD MEN OF
BORNEO--TAKING LEAVE OF THE INTERESTING DUHOI--A VISIT TO THE UPPER
KATINGANS--DANCING--FRIENDLY NATIVES--DOWN THE KATINGAN RIVER
CHAPTER XXXIII
KASUNGAN--THE WEALTH OF THE DAYAKS--ANIMISM--GUARDIANS OF THE DEAD--HUGE
SERPENTS--CROCODILES--GOVERNMENT OF DAYS GONE BY--KATINGAN CUSTOMS AND
BELIEFS
CHAPTER XXXIV
FUNERAL CUSTOMS OF THE KATINGANS--DEPARTURE FROM KASUNGAN--AN ATTEMPTED
VISIT TO SEMBULO--INDIFFERENT MALAYS--A STRANGE DISEASE--THE BELIEF IN
TAILED PEOPLE--THE LEGEND OF THE ANCESTOR OF TAILED MEN
CHAPTER XXXV
A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS--A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS--THE SHORT-TAILED
CATS OF BORNEO--A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY
BERI-BERI--THE TAMOANS--THE PRACTICE OF INCISION
FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
CONCLUSION
SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR
A SHORT GLOSSARY
INDEX
ILLUSTRATIONS
Carl Lumholtz in the Bulungan, Dutch Borneo, May, 1914
In the jungle of Southern Borneo, near the Sampit River
The Giant Taro (_Alocasia Macrorhiza_)
The Orang-Utan. A more than half-grown specimen
The Long-Nosed Monkey (_Nasalis Larvatus_), peculiar to Borneo
The Sultan of Bulungan
Chonggat, the author's Dayak collector of animals and birds
Approaching Kaburau, on the Kayan River
Banglan, a Kayan, and his family. Kaburau
Ladders, below Long Pangian, on the Kayan River
Young Kayan, from Kaburau
Kayan, from Kaburau. Shows a Chinese manner of hair-dressing
Kayan from Kaburau. Showing the distended ear lobes
Kayan child, Kaburau
Kayan mother and infant. Near Long Pangian
Punans, the shy nomads of the jungle
Punans near my camp
Punan using the sumpitan or blowpipe
Kayan climbing a tree
Kayan at the author's camp, blowing a native wind instrument
The King Cobra (_Naia Bungarus_)
Young Orang-Utans
Kayan, from Kaburau. Front, side, and back views
Kayan, in mourning dress, Kaburau
Kenyah, from Long Pelaban. Front, side, and back views
Tuba fishing on the Isau River
Tuba fishing. Taking the augury by fire-making. Isau River
Tuba fishing. Effects of the poison. Pipa River
Kenyahs starting in the morning for distant Apo Kayan. Long Pangian, Kayan
River
A funeral house. Near Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Long Pelaban, a Kenyah kampong, on the Kayan River
The gallery of a communal house, Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Kenyah father and child. Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Kenyah woman, with large basket used for carrying rice. Long Pelaban,
Kayan River
A Kenyah's sweetheart removing his eyebrows and eyelashes. Long Pelaban,
Kayan River
Wrestling. Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Kenyah girl, in a woman's usual attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Kenyah mother and child, on their daily trips to the Long Pelaban, Kayan
River
Tuba fishing, at the Pipa River
Kenyah ready for a trip to the ladang (fields). Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Kenyah in full war attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River
Sacrificing the pig at the festival. Tumbang Marowei
Murung women squatting in order to observe the author. Tumbang Marowei
Murung man and wife. Tumbang Marowei
The beating of gongs furnishes the music at festivals. Tumbang Marowei
The Feast of the Rubber Gatherers. Tumbang Marowei
Blians, or priest-doctors, at Tumbang Marowei
Murung women smoking cigarettes and preparing them from native tobacco and
leaves of trees. Tumbang Marowei
The Scaly Ant-Eater (_Manis_). Tumbang Marowei
Telok Djulo, an Ot-Danum kampong, on the Barito River
Ot-Danum, wearing gold breastplates. Telok Djulo
Passing the Kiham Mudang, on the Upper Barito River
Rough travel by boat on the Upper Barito River
Passing the boats up the rapids of the Upper Barito River
Part of my provisions, at Bahandang, Busang River
Djobing, our efficient Malay
Part of the expedition ascending the Busang River
Tamaloë, a lately formed Penyahbong kampong
Pisha, the good Penyahbong chief. Tamaloë
Penyahbong rhino hunters. Tamaloë
Penyahbong women. Tamaloë
Back view of the Penyahbong women, showing their head-dress
Penyahbong, front, side, and back view. Tamaloë
The Penyahbong war dance. Tamaloë
Saputan, on his way to the ladang (fields) and for the hunt of Babi. Data
Láong
Saputans, front and side views. Data Láong
Saputan, the kapala of Data Láong
Saputans showing their war prowess
Saputans poling. Data Láong
Piercing the ears of the Saputan chief in order to insert a tiger cat's
corner teeth. Data Láong
Mahakam River, westward view, from the author's tent, at Long Kai
Penihings, the kapala of Long Kai and his children
Bukat, at Long Kai, front, side, and back views
Bukatwomen, at Long Kai, front and side views
The Mélah ceremony for imparting health and strength. Long Pahangei
Oma-Sulings. Long Pahangei
The Dángei hut, a temporary place of worship
The Rajá Besar, or great chief, and his wife. Long Pahangei
Large wooden drum. Long Pahangei
Lidju, a Long-Glat noble, and his wife, the sister of the Rajá Besar. Long
Pahangei
Cooking rice in bamboo receptacles. Long Pahangei
Lung Karang, a limestone hill, near Long Tjehan, on the Mahakam River
Penihing burial cave, near the Tjehan River
Penihing women carrying water. Long Kai
Penihings, from Long Kai
Two young Penihings, caught unawares by my camera. Sungei Lobang
The durian tree, with fruit. Lulo Pakko, on the Merasi River
One of our Javanese soldiers, in undress, carrying two durians. Lulo
Pakko, Merasi River
A ripe durian opened
Three Long-Glat women of the nobility. Long Tujo
Back view of the Long-Glat women
Long-Glat women. Long Tujo. Front view
Long-Glat women. Side and back views
Long-Glats, with a native dog. Long Tujo
A narrow-snouted crocodile shot by our sergeant below the great rapids of
the Mahakam
Entrance to the cave of Kong Beng
Malays searching for diamonds at Martapura
Malay house, near Martapura
Malay house at Mandin
Bukit women. Mandin
Bukit at Lok Besar, front and back views
Bukit woman and her two sons. Lok Besar
Bukit women with their children. Lok Besar
The "Order" of Beraui, and his wife, both Duhoi. Beraui, on the Samba
River
A Duhoi and his family. Beraui, Samba River
A bearded Dayak, front and side views
Upper Katingans passing the rapids of Buntut Mangkikit
Upper Katingan women dancing. Buntut Mangkikit
Upper Katingan family, at Buntut Mangkikit
An upper Katingan, of Buntut Mangkikit. Front, side, and back views
Upper Katingan women at Buntut Mangkikit, front and side views
Samples of Dayak tatuing
Women beating small drums and singing. Buntut Mangkikit
Protecting against evil spirits. Kasungan
Staffs, called pantars, erected in memoriam of the dead, at a kampong
below Kuala Samba
A wealthy Katingan, at Kasungan
A loving pair guarding the dead. Kasungan
Sacrifice of eggs to the good spirits. Long Pahangei, Mahakam River
Panyanggaran, at Bali, Katingan River
Panyanggaran, at Kasungan, Katingan River
Tamoans, from Bangkal, Lake Sembulo, front and side views
Katingan taking an astronomical observation. Kasungan
Kenyah women husking rice. Long Pelaban, Kayan River
A tailless dog, sister of the mother of the stump-tailed ones.
Bandjermasin
The short-tailed domestic cat of Borneo
A breed of stump-tailed dogs. Bandjermasin
CHAPTER I
DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF
JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR, THE
WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT
Having concluded important business matters during a brief stay in New
York, I decided to go to Canada to take the express train for Vancouver.
It was the last train which made connection with the Canadian Pacific
steamer for Hong-Kong, and if I could make it I should save three weeks.
With the assurance that I should have a couple of hours latitude, I
started in the morning for Montreal. There was no doubt that I should make
it unless something unusual delayed the north-bound train, and that is
exactly what occurred. The steam power of the brake got out of order,
necessitating a stop for repairs, and considerable time was lost. Darkness
came on and I began to feel anxious about the prospect of gaining my
object.
The conductor and his assistant, in the knowledge that I had a through
ticket to Hong-Kong, did everything in their power to aid me. Wire
messages were sent to have the Imperial Limited Express wait for "a man
travelling first-class"; to the custom-house, and also for a cab and four
"red caps" to meet me on arrival. The assistant conductor told everybody
of the plight of the passenger with the long journey before him, the
engineer was prevailed upon to increase his speed; and the passengers
began to exhibit interest. A tall Canadian came to me and expressed his
belief that I would catch that train, and even if it should be gone there
was another a little later by which it might be overtaken. "I shall assist
you," he added.
As we approached Montreal there were still twelve minutes left. The lights
of the city were visible near by, and one of my fellow passengers was in
the act of assuring me that my chances were good, when our train suddenly
stopped--on account of the bridge being open to permit a ship to pass. Ten
minutes lost! I had decided, if necessary, to sacrifice two boxes of honey
which I had bought at the last moment, honey and water being my usual
drink when on expeditions. The total weight was ninety kilograms, but they
were neatly packed in paper and had been allowed to stand at one side of
the entrance to the Pullman car. They were an important adjunct of my
outfit, but perhaps after all it would be necessary for us to part.
Immediately upon the opening of the doors the four porters presented
themselves with the encouraging information that they understood the
Imperial Limited was waiting. My luggage, including the honey, was hurried
on to a large truck, my Canadian friend throwing his on too, and speeding
the boys to a trot, we ran as fast as we could to the baggage-room of the
custom-house, where the official in charge caused us only a short delay.
As the packages were being loaded into three cabs a man stepped forward
and accosted me: "We have got you now! I am a reporter for _The Star_, and
would like to know who the man is that keeps the Imperial Limited
waiting!" The moment did not seem favourable for an interview, but I
invited him to enter my cab and the two or three minutes required to drive
to the station afforded opportunity for an explanation:
I was on my way to New Guinea. This was a Norwegian undertaking which had
the support of three geographical societies. It was hoped that a geologist
and a botanist from Norway would meet me next year in Batavia to take part
in this expedition to one of the least-known regions on the globe. "What
do you expect to find?" he asked just as we halted.
The porters outside said the train was gone, having waited fifteen
minutes. The newspaper man immediately joined forces with my Canadian
friend, and they were equally determined that by some means I should
overtake that train. First we went to look for the station-master, hoping
through him to obtain permission to have the train stopped en route. When
found after a few minutes' search, he tried in vain to get one of the
officials of the Canadian Pacific Company on the telephone. My two friends
stood near to keep his interest active, but he did not seem to succeed.
The station was quiet and looked abandoned. It was after ten o'clock and
at that time of the evening the hope of reaching an official at his
residence seemed forlorn.
Meantime I had my luggage ready to throw aboard the 10.30 express, which
was my one chance in case the Imperial Limited could be halted. The three
men were persistent but finally, two or three minutes before the departure
of the express, they came to me hurriedly and said: "You had better go by
this train to North Bay, where you will arrive at 9.30 to-morrow morning.
There you will catch the train, or if not you can return here." There
appeared to me small prospect that the three men would succeed in
obtaining the desired permission, but I had no time for reflection. The
train was ready to start and my luggage was hastily thrown to the platform
of the car. I bade the gentlemen a hurried good-bye, thanking them for all
the trouble they had taken. "You are going to catch that train!" the
reporter exclaimed in a firm and encouraging tone. "But what do you expect
to find in New Guinea?" he suddenly inquired as I jumped on to the slowly
moving train.
Reflecting that in the worst case I would be back in Montreal in one and a
half days, I fell asleep. At 6.30 in the morning I was awakened by the
voice of the porter saying, "the train is waiting for you, sir," as he
rolled up the curtain. It really was the Imperial Express! The big red
cars stood there quietly in the sunshine of the early morning. In a few
minutes I was dressed, and never with greater satisfaction have I paid a
porter his fee.
The station was Chalk River, and the train had waited forty minutes. What
a comfortable feeling to know that all my belongings were safely on board!
I had not only saved time and money but an interesting trip across the
continent lay before me. Having washed and put on clean garments, I had my
breakfast while passing through an enchanting hilly country, amid smiling
white birches, and the maples in the autumn glory of their foliage, with
more intensely red colouring than can be seen outside North America. The
oatmeal porridge seemed unusually well prepared: the waiter intimated that
the cook was a Parisian. However that might have been, he was probably of
French descent.
Four days later we arrived at Vancouver, where I wrote to the three
gentlemen of Montreal, my appreciation of services rendered, addressing
them care of _The Star_. Their names I did not know, but it was not the
first time that I had been reminded of Darwin's assurance, in the account
of his travels round the world, as to "how many truly kind-hearted people
there are, with whom he (the traveller) never before had, nor ever again
will have any further communication, who yet are ready to offer him the
most disinterested assistance."
Early in the morning on October 19 we saw the first Japanese fishing-boats.
The sea was green and in the atmosphere a kind of haze, which almost seems
peculiar to Japan, imparted an artistic tone to everything. In splendid
weather, almost calm, we sailed along the coast of Nippon. As we entered
the bay of Yokohama the sun was setting over a landscape that realised
one's preconceived ideas of the beauty of the country. On one side, low
ridges with rows of picturesque pine-trees just as you know them from
Japanese prints, while in the background to the west, above the clouds rose
the top of Fuji, nearly 4,000 metres above sea-level. We steamed up in
absolute calm, while the long twilight was still further prolonged by a
brilliant afterglow.
Taking advantage of the permit to leave the steamer and rejoin it in Kobe,
and having received useful advice from Cook's representative who came on
board, I immediately went ashore. On calling a rickshaw I was much
surprised to find that the man spoke English quite well. He trotted
continuously twenty minutes, to the railway station, where in good time I
caught the train for the West, and at daybreak I was ready to observe the
beautiful country through which we passed. I had made no provision for
breakfast, but one of my fellow travellers, who came from Tokio, had the
courtesy to offer me two snipe with bacon, which tasted uncommonly well.
In the morning I arrived at Kioto, the city of many temples, and found the
Kioto hotel satisfactory. I shall not attempt to describe in detail the
fascination of the two days I spent here, where one still may see
something of old Japan. In Kobe, Nagasaki, and other cities exposed to the
stream of travellers, Western influence is evident everywhere, and the
inhabitants are less attractive on that account. After all one has heard
and read about the charm of the country, one is inclined to think that the
reports are exaggerated, but as far as my brief experience in Nippon goes,
it is the most beautiful and interesting country that I have visited, and
I hope in the future to know it better.
The deepest impression made upon me by the Japanese was that they are all
so active, healthy, and strong; always good-tempered, their manners are
exquisite, even the plain people bowing to each other, and many young
people saluted me on the street. The infinite variety in their shops is
noticeable. To see the coaling of the steamers in Japanese harbours, which
is done by baskets handed from one to another, makes an impression on the
traveller. Hundreds of women and men take part in the occupation, and they
come neatly dressed to this dirty work, women with clean white kerchiefs
on their heads. The low ditches in their rice-fields are like engineering
work, and their bundles of wood are nicely tied.
Of the many temples I visited in Kioto the first was Chion-in, which lies
impressively on an elevation at the foot of a charming wooded hill. The
tiny lake at the back of the quaint structure, the peaceful atmosphere,
the sunshine, and singing birds--the _tout ensemble_ was inexpressibly
beautiful. On my way back to the hotel I passed a Christian church and
felt ashamed of the wretched architecture, in the usual conventional
style, made of stone with white-plastered walls, hard and unattractive.
Never have I been among a people so close to nature, strikingly
intelligent, friendly, and the most aesthetic of all nations on the globe.
In continuing the journey opportunity is afforded to see Shanghai,
Hong-Kong, and at last Singapore, the important port of the Malay
Peninsula. Singapore, with its green lawns and trees, has a pleasant,
though humid climate, cooler than that of Batavia, and quite comfortable
although so near the equator. It is satisfying to know one place where the
native races have a good time in competition with the whites, not only the
Chinese, who have reached power and influence here, but also the Malays,
natives of India, Arabs, etc. The Chinese rickshaw men here are of superb
physique, and the excellence of the service renders this the most
agreeable method of getting about. Moreover, it is a pleasure to watch
their athletic movements and long easy stride, as if they were half
flying. Some of them pass the carriages. They are jolly, like big
children, and are natural teetotalers, but they sometimes fight about
money among themselves.
After securing a Chinese photographer and a trained native collector of
zoological specimens, I embarked in the excellent Dutch steamer _Rumphius_
for Batavia where I arrived on the 10th of November. The first thing to be
done was to ask an audience of the Governor-General of Netherlands India,
who usually stays at Buitenzorg, the site of the world-famous botanical
gardens. It is an hour's trip by express from Batavia, and although only
265 metres higher, has a much pleasanter climate. The palace, which is
within the botanical gardens, has an unusually attractive situation, and
the interior is light, cool, and stately. His excellency, A.W.F. Idenburg,
most courteously gave the necessary orders for the furtherance of my
proposed expedition to New Guinea, and as it was necessary for me to go
first to Dutch Borneo, to secure a Dayak crew, he provided me with an
introduction to the Resident of the South and Eastern Division.
During the few days I stayed in Buitenzorg, the botanical gardens were a
source of ever new delight. It was in the latter half of November and thus
well into the rainy season. Usually showers came every afternoon, but the
mornings, even up to eleven o'clock, always appeared like spring-time,
only in a more magnificent edition than that of temperate zones. In the
effulgence of light and the fresh coolness of the first hours of the day,
plant and animal life seemed jubilant. After the calm and heat of midday,
violent thunder-storms of short duration may occur, but the evenings are
generally beautiful, although the prevailing inclination is to retire
early. In the tropics one realises more readily than elsewhere how a
single day contains all the verities and realities of one's whole life:
spring, summer, and autumn every day, as in a year or in a lifetime.
Australians and Americans who visit Java every year make a great mistake
in selecting the dry season, April to July, for their travels. To be sure,
one is not then troubled by rain, but on the other hand the heat is
greater, the country becomes dry, and including the botanical gardens,
loses much of its attraction.
I decided to go by rail to Soerabaia, the point of steamboat connection
with Borneo; this would give me opportunity to see Java besides saving
some time. After twelve hours' travel by express the train stops for the
night at Djokjakarta where there is a good hotel. We now find ourselves in
a region which formerly was the main seat of Buddhism in Java. The
world-famous monument, Boro Budur, is in the neighbourhood to the north in
the district of Kedu, and by motor-car a visit may easily be made in one
day, but for those who can spend more time on this interesting excursion
there is satisfactory accommodation in a small hotel near by. The
government has of late years successfully restored this magnificent ancient
structure which at its base forms a square, with the length of the side 150
metres, and rises to a height of more than 30 metres. At first sight it
does not seem as large as expected, but on entering the first gallery one
is struck by the monumental magnitude and unique beauty of the edifice.
Built upon a small hill from blocks of trachyte, it consists of twelve
terraces rising one above another, and connected by staircases. The
uppermost terrace, fifteen metres in diameter, has a dome. Each gallery is
surrounded by a wall adorned with niches in handsome settings, each
containing a life-sized Buddha, with legs crossed, soles turned downward.
There are 432 such niches, and from this great number of statues of the
famous religious founder the place probably derived its name, Boro Budur
equals Bara Buddha (Buddhas without number).
There are no less than 1,600 has reliefs, handsome carvings in hard stone
mostly representing scenes from the life of Buddha and "which must," says
Wallace, "occupy an extent of nearly three miles in length. The amount of
human labour and skill expended on the Great Pyramids of Egypt sink into
insignificance when compared with that required to complete this
sculptured hill-temple in the interior of Java." It dates from the eighth
or ninth century after Christ, and in reality is not a temple, but a
so-called dagoba, dedicated to the keeping of some Buddhist sacred relic
which was deposited in the dome, its principal part. In the beautiful
light of afternoon the walk through the galleries was especially
impressive. From that vantage point there is presented a fine, extensive
view of a peaceful landscape, and at the time of my visit an actively
smoking volcano in the far distance added a picturesque feature. In the
vicinity is another noble Hindu structure, the so-called temple of Mendut,
inside of which is found a large and singular Buddha sitting on a chair,
legs hanging down. The figure is nude and the expression on its features
is very mild.
The journey from Djokjakarta to Soerabaia consumes about half a day and
the trip is pleasanter than that of the previous day, when the rolling of
the fast express on a narrow-gauge track was rather trying, while at
dinner-time the soup and water were thrown about in an annoying manner. I
have no doubt that this defect will soon be remedied, for Java is still
what a very distinguished English visitor said sixty years ago: "the very
garden of the East and perhaps upon the whole the richest, best
cultivated, and best governed tropical island in the world." Soerabaia is
the great shipping port for sugar, tobacco, etc., and a more important
commercial centre than Batavia. The day after my arrival I started for
Borneo where I intended to proceed to the Kayan or Bulungan River in the
Northeast. It was my purpose to take advantage of the occasion to acquaint
myself with that district and its natives which would extend my travels by
a few months.