_Report to the Government of India_, _12th July_, _1837_.
In the following report, I have divided the marches into series,
corresponding with the countries through which they were made, reserving
a table of the whole for a subsequent part. These series will be as
follows--
1. From Sadiya to Beesa Lacoom.
2. From Beesa Lacoom to Namtusseek.
3. From Namtuseek to Wullabhoom.
4. From Wullabhoom to Mogoung.
5. From Mogoung to Ava.
I. FROM SADIYA TO BEESA LACOOM.
COUNTRY TRAVERSED BELONGING TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT, AND FORMING PART
OF THE SOUTH-EAST EXTREMITY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM.
1. From Sadiya to the Noa Dihing river mouth or Mookh. Direction east.
Distance 6 miles performed in boat, the course lying up the Burrumpootur.
2. From Noa Dihing Mookh to Rangagurrah on the Noa Dihing. Direction
SSE. Distance 12 miles, course lying along the dry bed of the Noa
Dihing.
3. From Rangagurrah to Moodoa Mookh, on the same river. Direction south-
east, the distance being 12 miles. {115a}
4. From Moodoa Mookh to Kidding. Direction south, the distance 9 miles,
course south-east, along the bed of the Noa Dihing as far as Wakhet,
thence diverging to SSW. through heavy jungle.
5. From Kidding to Namroop Puthar. Direction, nearly south, the
distance being 12 miles, course lying through very heavy jungle, crosses
the Karam Panee, {115b} which here is not fordable, and another
considerable feeder of the Booree Dihing, and lastly up the Namroop.
6. From Namroop Puthar to Beesa Lacoom. Direction southwest, the
distance 12 miles, the course extending at first over low hills and
difficult ground, thence through heavy jungle intersected by narrow
plains, lastly chiefly along the banks of the Darap Panee.
_Nature of the country_.--It will be seen that with the exception
of the three first marches, and part of the fourth, the country is
occupied by the heavy jungle so prevalent in these parts. The chief
difficulties our party experienced arose from the limited manner in which
the jungle had been cut for their passage.
_Rivers_.--The only one not fordable in the above route, is the Karam
Panee, but this does not hold good either above or below the place I
crossed. They all discharge much water during the rains, and even in the
dry season are navigable for small canoes.
_Villages_.--These are as follows:--
1. _Digalo Gohain Goung_.--On the right bank of the Noa Dihing it is
inhabited by Kamptees lately settled in our territory, and is a
respectable village. The Noa Dihing here ceases to be navigable even for
small canoes.
2. _Wakhet_.--This is a new but wretched village, inhabited by Singphos.
Wakhet Gam was an adherent of the Duphas, and is by all account one of
the worst-disposed Singpho chiefs. He is said even at this period still
to traffic occasionally in slaves.
3. _Kidding_.--A temporary village, containing about 10 houses,
inhabited by Nagas, now naturalised to the plains.
4. _Namroop Puthar_.--So called from a plain on the left bank of the
Namroop. The village, which is a mean and despicable one, is on the
opposite bank.
5. _Beesa Lacoom_.--Is situated on the right bank of the Darap Panee,
which is fordable at the heads of the rapids. It contains 12 small
houses. The Gam is, I believe, an uncle of the Beesa Gam, and exercises
exclusive control over the tribe of Beesa Nagas. This influence he
appeared to exercise to our disadvantage. He is a discontented man, and
his behaviour to our party was very unsatisfactory.
_Population_. {116} --This is scanty enough, particularly when we
consider that the houses in the above villages are much smaller than in
the better sort of Singpho villages. With the exception of the Kamptee
village the average number of people to each house cannot exceed five.
Another small Singpho village exists on the Namroop, about 3 miles from
Namroop Puthar, and not far from the site of the coal mine.
_Capabilities of the Country_.--These are of the usual description.
The soil is productive enough, but the labour of clearing the drier spots
is excessive. Excellent rice grounds exist in abundance between Beesa
Lacoom and Namroop Puthar, but the cultivation of this, as well as of all
the other necessaries, is limited to the quantity absolutely required.
Scarcities of grain are of frequent, indeed almost of annual, occurrence;
and this is chiefly owing to the pernicious influence of opium or Kanee,
to which all our Singphos are immoderately attached. Of the _Mineral_
_Productions_, coal and petroleum were the only ones we met with.
_The coal occupies_ the greater portion of a precipitous part of the
sandstone composing the left bank of the river Namroop. Three large
veins have been completely exposed by the cutting away of the bank. The
coal is I believe of good quality. The river immediately under the veins
is very deep, and were it not for the rapids which intervene between the
site of the mineral and the Booree Dihing, it would be difficult to
conceive a spot affording similar facilities for the transmission of the
mineral. I must however, observe, that even in the dry season the river
is navigable for small canoes as far as the site alluded to. During the
rains no difficulty whatever would be experienced in the carriage, as
rafts might be made on the spot. No use is made of the coal by the
natives, nor did they seem to be aware of its nature.
Of _the Petroleum_ {117} no use whatever is made, although we have
ample experience from its universal use by the Burmese, that it is a
valuable product both as affording light, and preserving in a very great
degree all wooden structures from rot and insects. The springs occur in
four different places, all close to the Puthar: of these three occur on
the low hill which bounds the Puthar to the southern side, and one on the
Puthar itself, at the foot of the range alluded to. The springs are
either solitary, as in that of the Puthar, or grouped, a number together;
the discharge varies extremely from a thin greenish aqueous fluid to a
bluish grey opaque one, of rather a thick consistence: the quantity
poured out by these latter springs is very considerable. On the surface
of all, but especially on these last, an oleaginous, highly inflammable
fluid collects in the form of a thin film. The jungle surrounding the
springs ceases abruptly, the ground around, and among them, being covered
with stunted grass and a few small herbaceous plants. Elephants and
large deer are frequent visitors to the springs; of the former, the
tracts are frequent, and they are sometimes shot here by the natives.
_Vegetable Products_.--The jungles afford several kinds of bamboo, some
of which are of value; generally speaking the trees are not large, with
the exception of a gigantic Dipterocarpus, wood-oil or dammar tree; of
this particular tree I have seen specimens measuring 100 feet from the
base to the first branch. The wood is of no value, nor have I seen any
use made in Assam of the resinous secretion, which is in great vogue on
the Tenasserim Coast for the construction of torches, etc.
II. FROM BEESA LACOOM TO NAMTUSSEEK.
COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING PARTS OF THE NAGA RANGE OF HILLS, AND OF THE
SOUTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE VALLEY OF ASSAM: THE NORTHERN SIDE IS SUBJECT TO
BRITISH, THE SOUTHERN TO BURMESE CONTROL.
1st. STAGE.--_Halting place_ in the jungle, at an elevation of 770 feet
above the sea. Direction SSE. Distance 12 miles, course over low hills
covered with dense jungle.
2nd. _Darap Panee_.--Altitude 1029 feet. Direction SSE. Distance 12
miles, passed over some difficult places; crossed the Darap twice before
we reached the halting place, course through very heavy jungle, except on
the summits of the higher hills, which are tolerably open.
3rd. _Namtusseek_, {118} or Tusseek Panee, altitude 1413 feet. Direction
SSE. Distance 12 miles, country more open: summit of the hills covered
with grass and scattered trees. The highest hill surmounted was
certainly 1000 feet above our halting place.
4th. Namtusseek, or Tusseek Panee, altitude (not observed). Direction
SSE. Distance 10 miles, course almost entirely up the bed of the river
over boulders, occasionally skirting the stream through heavy and wet
jungle.
5th. _Yoomsan nullah_, near the foot of the Patkaye. Alt. 3026 feet;
direction SSE. Distance 4 miles. Course for a short time along the bed
of the Namtusseek, until we crossed a small stream, the Tukkakha: then
ascended a mountain, about 3500 feet high; on reaching the summit we
descended until we reached the halting place.
6th. _Nam-maroan_, or Maroan-kha. {119a} Alt. 2500 feet. Direction
ESE. Distance 15 miles. Ascended until we reached the summit of the
Patkaye; the ascent was in some places very steep, and owing to the
unsettled state of the weather, very difficult. Reached the boundary
nullah, along which we proceeded for some time; we then commenced the
descent, which was steep, and continued so, until we reached the
Nam-maroan. The extreme elevation we reached was rather more than 5000
feet. {119b}
7th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude estimated 2000 feet. Direction ESE.
Distance 10 miles, course along the bed of the stream; ground difficult,
and much impeded by boulders.
8th. _Nam-maroan_.--Altitude not taken. Direction ESE. Distance 7
miles. Course the same, but of a less difficult nature.
9th. _Khathung khioung_. {119c}--Altitude 1622 feet. Direction E. by
S. Distance 7 miles, course continues along the Nam-maroan, the whole
way: ground much less difficult. Passed close to a Singpho village of
two houses; some Puthars which bore traces of having once been cultivated
and inhabited occurred on this march.
10th. _Khussee-khioung_.--Altitude 3516. Direction E. by S. Distance
13 miles, left almost immediately the Khathung Kioung, and commenced
ascending. Ascent in some places very steep and difficult, and continued
until we had reached an elevation of 5600 feet. The descent then
commenced, and continued until we reached the Khussee-khioung, passing
along for some distance the Natkaw-khioung. The descent was occasionally
difficult, owing to broken ground; tree jungle occurred almost throughout
the whole distance.
11th. Kuttack Bhoom. {119d}--Altitude 3270. General direction S.
Distance 13 miles. Left the Khussee-khioung, but reached it again before
long. Continued to descend considerably, until we reached the Nam-thuga,
thence the descent increased considerably. Halted on an open grassy
spot, from which an extensive view of the valley of Hookhoom is obtained.
12th. _Namtusseek_.--Altitude 1099 feet. General direction ESE.
Distance 10 miles. Descended from Kuttack Bhoom, until we reached the
Loonkharankha, then ascended considerably. The descent then recommenced,
until we reached the Namtusseek. Heavy jungle occurred throughout. Path
occasionally difficult, becoming as we approached the base of the range
very wet. We crossed several small mountain streams.
_General features of the hills_.--The prevailing formation
appears to be sandstone, and connected with this we have rounded summits,
not attaining a great elevation, and a considerable depth of soil. The
lower ranges are throughout covered with heavy tree jungle. This becomes
excessively thick and wet along the water courses, which are of frequent
occurrence towards the base of the range, both on the northern and
southern sides. But from an elevation of 1000 feet to that of Yoomsan, a
great change for the better takes place on the northern face, the hills
being covered with clay, and generally not very high grass jungle, among
which trees are scattered. This character is particularly evident along
both sides of the valley drained by the Namtusseek of the northern side.
The Patkaye is wooded to its summit; the jungle on the south side being
much more humid than that on the northern. Indeed on this face of the
range, with the exception of the Puthars on the Nam-maroan, scarcely more
than two open spots exist, and both of these are of small extent. Of
these one exists at an elevation of 5500 feet, and one at Kuttack Bhoom.
The paths although very often steep, are easy enough for coolies, except
during wet weather, when they become very slippery. With some degree of
preparation the worst places might be made passable for lightly loaded
elephants, and this would be facilitated by the soft nature of most of
the rocks. The most difficult marches are those which lie along the beds
of the streams, and these, it has been seen, are far the most numerous;
they are particularly difficult for elephants, the boulders affording a
very precarious footing to these weighty animals. The difficulty is much
increased by rain, when even coolies find considerable difficulty in
making any progress. Several elephants accompanied Major White as far as
the Darap Panee, and a small suwaree elephant, loaded with a light tent,
succeeded in reaching Yoomsan. The southern side of the range is
decidedly of a more difficult nature than the northern, and it is in
addition of greater extent: the highest point traversed is 5600 feet
above the level of the sea. The range might be traversed by a lightly
loaded active native in six days.
_Streams_.--These all partake of the usual nature of mountain torrents;
they are all fordable during the cold weather, the principal ones being
crossed at the heads of the rapids. The boundary nullah is a mere
streamlet: it runs between two ridges of the Patkaye: its course being
about ESE. and WNW. Owing to the frequency of the streams and their
mountainous nature, I should imagine that this route is impracticable
during the rains.
_Villages_.--Not a single village or house exists directly on the route.
One small Naga village is visible from the Namtusseek below Yoomsan, and
a detached hut is visible here and there on a high mountain close to, and
NE. of Yoomsan. On the Burmese side there is, as I have mentioned
before, a village consisting of two houses close to the route. This
village has lately been established by some Singphos from Nimbrung,
several marches to the eastward.
_Population_.--I certainly did not see 100 Nagas throughout the time
passed in traversing these hills, although I am satisfied that every man
within a reasonable distance came into Camp in the hopes of sharing in
the extensive distribution of presents. From the appearance of the
country about Yoomsan, and the valley of the Namtusseek, I am inclined to
think that the population was at one time considerable. The openness of
the country, which is as I have previously said chiefly clothed with
grass, and the peculiar and generally imperfect aspect of the trees, can
only be accounted for, by supposing the country to have been extensively
cleared, particularly when it is remembered that the highest portions of
the range are thickly wooded. But allowing this supposition to be
correct, it is no proof, that the total population has been on the
decline, for we must take into account, the wandering nature of all hill
tribes. In forming an opinion of a hill population, which in all times
and places has, in this country at least, been found scanty, we must take
care not to confound the temporary huts, erected in khets, for the
purpose of protecting the cultivation, with actually inhabited houses; to
the former description I think the detached houses mentioned as being
visible from Yoomsan are to be referred.
The Nagas, at least the men, for I saw no women, are a small, active,
large-legged race, with Tartar faces. They are divided into very many
tribes, each of which has some peculiarity of costume. Those I saw were
decidedly inferior to any of the other hill tribes with which I am
acquainted. Their clothing is miserable, the chief protection consisting
of a number of rings, made of rattan, which encircle the abdomen. They
are as usual excessively dirty, and much attached to the use of tobacco
and ardent spirits. Their wants are few, but even these are miserably
supplied. They entertain an unbounded fear of the Singphos, who appear
to make any use of them they think proper. Their only weapons are
spears, Singpho dhas and battle axes.
The Singphos cannot be considered otherwise than as encroachers.
Invasions of these restless marauders appear not to have been uncommon up
to a late date. The remains of two stockades, in which they had
entrenched themselves were extant, one close to Yoomsan, the other on the
S. face of the Patkaye. I have before said that the puthars on the Nam-
maroan bore evidence of having been inhabited, and apparently to some
extent. But even during the stay of Major White on these hills, an
irruption of Singphos from Nimbrung had taken place, and had totally
unsettled the peace of the native inhabitants. Such things must be
expected to occur, particularly when it is well known that the Burmese,
the only power to which they are subjects, can exercise no authority over
the Singphos in any one direction, except when they have a large armed
force in the valley of Hookhoom.
_Of the Capabilities_ of the country it would be vain to attempt
giving an opinion. Scarcely any cultivation was passed on the route. The
soil is generally deep, more or less yellow, and somewhat clayey; the
hollows having a thin superstratum of black mould. Taking the deserted
state of the country into account, this part of the Naga range is of
little importance, except as forming portion of a most natural and well
defined boundary, compared with other portions of the same range to the
westward.
_Products_.--The principal mineral product is salt, an article which is
procured abundantly in some other more available points of the range. We
saw one small spring on the Namtusseek, from which supplies had been
lately taken.
_Vegetable Products_.--Fine timber trees occur here and there. Oaks,
Magnolias and Chesnuts occur not uncommonly, the Magnolias being of these
in this range the most characteristic of elevation. The horse chesnut of
Assam, (Osculus Asamicus mihi) occurs on both sides of the range, but
does not ascend further than 3,000 feet. No Fir trees exist on the
route, nor is it probable that they exist on the range in this direction.
One of the most interesting plants is a new species of tea, which I
believe to be a genuine Thea; it is called Bun Fullup, or jungle tea, by
the Assamese, in contra-distinction to the true tea plant, which is
called Fullup. This species makes its appearance at an elevation of
about 1,000 feet, and is met with as high up as 4,000 feet. It attains
the size of a tree of 30 feet in height; it is used only as a medicine.
No real tea exists on this route; several plants were pointed out to me
as tea, but all were spurious instances. The higher portions of the
ranges have a flora approaching in many instances to that of northern
latitudes. As examples of this, it will be sufficient to allude, in
addition to the trees mentioned above, to the existence of two species of
Daphne, one of Barberry, several species of a genus nearly allied to the
Whortle Berries, a Violet, and several species of Smilacineae, to which
order the Lily of the Valley belongs.
In concluding this part of my report, I may perhaps be permitted to
advert to the question of the possibility of transporting a body of armed
men into the Burmese dominions by this route. Although there is nothing
in the nature of this portion of the boundary which would render this
operation very difficult, yet considering the state of the adjoining
parts of Upper Assam, and that of Hookhoom, it becomes almost
impracticable. I allude to the extreme difficulty of procuring grain in
Upper Assam, in which, at least around Sadiya, annual scarcities are by
no means uncommon, and to the utter impossibility of drawing any supplies
from Hookhoom in its present miserable state. All the necessary supplies
would require to be drawn from Lower Assam, and for the transport of
these the scanty population of this extremity of the valley would by no
means be sufficient. Bearing on this point it must be remembered, that
from the 1st of April to the 1st November, these hills cannot be
traversed except by their native inhabitants, without incurring great
risk from the usual severe form of jungle fever.
III. FROM NAMTUSSEEK TO WULLABOOM.
COUNTRY TRAVERSED SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY, FORMING GREATER PORTION
OF THE VALLEY OF HOOKHOONG, OR THE PAEENDWENG.
March 1. _From Namtusseek to Nhempean_.--Direction E. Distance 18
miles, crossed the Namtusseek, then passed through heavy tree jungle, and
subsequently over extensive grassy plains.
2. _From Nhempean to Nidding_.--Direction SSE. Distance 4.5
miles, course along the Namtoroan, thence up the Saxsaikha.
3. _From Nidding to Kulleyang_.--Direction SSE. Distance 13
miles, country covered either with tree or high grass jungle. Passed a
deserted village, Thilling Khet.
4. _From Kulleyang to Isilone_.--Direction SW. Distance 10 miles,
country rather more open. Puthars are of common occurrence; passed a
small village, Damoon.
5. _From Tsilone to Meinkhoong_.--Distance 17 miles, course at
first along the Namtunai, {124a} country open, consisting of grassy
plains; several nullahs occur.
6. _From Meinkhoon to Wullabhoom_.--Direction SE. Distance 13
miles. Course over plains intersected by tree jungle, subsequently up
the bed of the Nempyo-kha.
_Nature of the Country_.--The valley of Hookhoong, or as the
Burmese call it, in allusion to its amber mines, Paeendweng, is of small
extent. Its greatest diameter is in the direction of E. to W., {124b}
its southern termination being within a few miles from Wullabhoom. It is
surrounded on all sides by hills, the highest of which are towards the
NE. and E.; none however would appear to exceed 6000 feet in height; and
from their appearance, I imagine they are wooded to their summits. The
lowest hills are those which form the southern boundary, and these
scarcely deserve the name. From Kuttack-bhoom a fine view of the valley
is obtained; it is here very narrow, and does not I should think exceed
25 miles in breadth. The features of the country are in a striking
degree similar to those of Upper Assam, that is, it presents a plain
surface intersected frequently by belts of jungle, the parts at the base
of the boundary hills being exclusively occupied by heavy jungle. The
general elevation of the plain above the sea may be estimated at about
1000 feet, so that it is several hundred feet above the level of Sadiya.
But although this is the case, the valley of Hookhoom undergoes the same
changes during the rainy season as Assam, the greater part being during
that period under water.
_Of the Climate_ it is perhaps presumptuous to give any opinion; it
is however by no means so cold as that of Upper Assam. In April the
daily range of the thermometer was very considerable, from 60 degrees to
88 degrees. The rains set in later than on the northern side of the
Patkaye, and they are said to be much less severe.
_The rivers_ are numerous, the principal one is the Namtunai, {125}
which subsequently assumes the name of Kyeendweng. This is in the places
I saw it a large, generally deep and sluggish stream, varying in breadth
from 270 to 350 yards. The next in size is the Namtoroan, which has more
of the character of a mountain stream; it is of considerable breadth
(opposite Nhempean it is 270 yards across,) and presents numerous rapids.
Both of these rivers are navigable for boats of some size. The other
rivers are small and insignificant; all fall into the Namtoroan or
Namtunai.
_Villages_.--Of these the following were passed on the route:--
1. _Nhempean_, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, is situated on an
extensive open grassy plain, it is stockaded: it contains about 12
houses, the river is here navigable for middling sized canoes.
2. _Tubone_, on the same bank, but lower down, and within quarter of a
mile of Nhempean, it is of about the same size, and similarly stockaded.
3. _Nidding_, on the left bank of the Saxsai-kha, about three-quarters
of a mile above its junction with the Namtoroan: it is a stockaded
village, and about the same size.
4. _Calleyang_, on the Prong-kha contains about 8 houses: it is not
stockaded.
5. _Lamoon_, on the Moneekha, is a very small village, containing four
or five houses: it is not stockaded.
6. _Tsilone_, on the left bank of the Namtunai. This is the Dupha Gam's
village: it is of the ordinary size, and is stockaded in the usual
manner.
7. _Meinkhoon_, on the Cadeekha, by which it is intersected; it consists
of two stockades, separated by the above stream; and contains about 25
houses, none of which are however large. It is here that the first
Pagodas (Poongye houses) occur. The village is situated on an open
grassy plain of considerable extent.
8. _Wullabhoom_, on the right bank of the Nemokapy, an insignificant
stream. This village is not stockaded; it contains about 10 houses, of
which several are of the Singpho structure.
The Gam of this village was in expectation of an attack from the Dupha
people, and had in consequence erected a small square stockade for his
own use; he had however built it so small that he might easily be
dislodged by means of a long spear.
In addition to these, there is a village called _Bone_, on the Namtoroan;
the path leading to this is crossed soon after leaving Namtusseek, and
another stockaded village, on the right bank of the Namtoroan, a little
below the mouth of the Saxsai-kha.
None of the above villages are situated on strong positions. The
stockades are as usual of bamboo, and are but weak defences; the space
between the stockade and the outer palisades is covered with short
pointed bamboos, placed obliquely in the ground: these are called Panjahs
by the Assamese; they inflict very troublesome wounds, and are
universally employed by the Singphos. The interiors of the stockades are
dirty, the houses are built without order, and generally fill the
stockade completely, so that the people inside might be burnt out with
the greatest ease. The average number of houses in each of the above
villages, may be estimated at about 12, of these the largest occur at
Wullaboom. They are built on muchowns, and resemble in all respects
those of our Assam Singphos. They are generally thatched with grass
(Imperata cylindrica. {126} ) The larger kinds have invariably one end
unenclosed; under this portico, which is usually of some size, all the
domestic operations are carried on. The Dupha Gam's is not distinguished
above the rest in any one way.
_Population_.--No country inhabited by sets of petty chieftains belonging
to different tribes, which are generally at enmity with each other, can
be populous; it is therefore with considerable surprise that I find it
stated that the number of houses in the north and eastern sides of the
valley is estimated at not less than 3000, which at the rate of 7 men to
one house, which is, considering the great size of very many Singpho
houses, rather underrated, would make the population of these portions of
the valley amount to 21,000 souls. The part of the valley which I have
traversed, and during which route 75 miles of ground were passed over,
does not present a single sign which, in the absence of direct evidence,
would lead one to suppose that it contained a considerable population.
During the before mentioned marches, I saw only four paths, crossing or
diverging from that which we followed. Of these, one _leads_, as I have
mentioned, to Bone, one to the hills on the NE., one to a Singpho
village, some miles to the south of our track, and the fourth diverged
from the path leading to the Amber mines through the village of a chief
called Tharapown Hhoung. The population on the above route of 75 miles,
would at the rate of 7 men to one house, and 12 houses to each village,
amount only to 840, but I think that 1,100 or 1,200 would be a fairer
estimate. From Kuttack-bhoom, as I have mentioned, a great portion of
the valley is distinctly seen, and nothing meets the eye but jungle,
broken here and there by the waters of the Namtunai: not a clearing is
even visible; instead of a population of 30,000, as has been stated I
should imagine that the whole valley of Hookhoom does not contain more
than 12,000.
The above population consists almost entirely of Singphos and their
Assamese slaves, and these last form a considerable portion. This was
particularly evident at Wulla-khoon, where they certainly out-numbered
their masters.
The Singphos of Hookhoong resemble exactly those located in Assam: they
are however less given to opium eating. They are of the same indolent
habits, and content themselves with cultivating sufficient grain to keep
themselves from starving. The women wear the Thumein, or Burmese dress,
a costume which is entirely unknown among the Singphos of Assam. The
most superior men I saw belonged to the Lupai tribe, from the east of the
Irrawaddi; they had come to Meinkhoon for the purpose of procuring amber.
In manners and dress they resembled the Shan-Chinese, they were provided
with firelocks, in the use of which they were certainly adroit. The
usual weapons of the Hookhoong Singphos are dhas and spears. I saw very
few muskets.
The behaviour of these people was throughout civil, and perhaps friendly.
Their hatred of the Burmese is excessive, the visits of the armed forces
of this nation being most harassing and oppressive. They are sub-divided
into tribes, among whom there is but little unanimity. The Dupha Gam is
much disliked, as he is considered the cause of the visit of the Burmese.
His power has been much exaggerated; he is not capable of bringing 500
men into the field. So unpopular was he, that it was reported to Mr.
Bayfield, that he was to be cut off immediately the Burmese force had
left the valley.
In giving the foregoing low estimate of the population of the valley, I
believe I have taken into consideration every circumstance of importance.
The occurrence of several old burial places on the route, some of which
are of considerable extent, might be considered by some as a proof, that
the population has undergone a decrease; but I conceive that it is
sufficiently accounted for by the wandering habits of the people.
_Capabilities_.--The greater part of the valley is well adapted for the
cultivation of rice, and as the soil is generally rich, approaching in
external characters to that of some parts of Upper Assam, particularly
Muttack, it is capable of supporting a large population.
_Products_.--Of the mineral productions, the most remarkable is Amber,
for which the valley of Hookhoong has been long famous, and from the
existence of which it derives its Burmese name. The mines are situated
in low, wooded hills, from which they are distant between five and six
miles; of this distance the first three miles traverse the plain on which
Meinkhoong is situated. The pits now worked give occupation to about a
dozen people; they occur on the brow of a hill: they are square, and of
various depth, the deepest being about 40 feet, the diameter not
exceeding three feet; the workmen ascending and descending by placing
their feet in holes made in two faces of the square. No props are used
to prevent the sides of the pits from falling in, the tenacity of the
soil rendering this precaution unnecessary. The instruments used, are
small wooden shovels, a wooden crow-bar tipped with iron for displacing
the soil or breaking the rocks, baskets for removing the substances so
displaced, buckets made of the bark of trees {128} for removing the water
which is met with in the deepest pits, and rude levers similar to those
used in Madras for the purposes of irrigation, for carrying the soil,
etc. from the pits to the surface; these however are only used in the
deeper pits, a hooked bamboo answering the purpose in the shallower ones.
The soil throughout the upper portion, and indeed for a depth of from 15
to 20 feet, is clayey and red: the remainder consists of a greyish-black
carbonaceous earth, increasing in density with the depth, and being very
hard at a depth of 40 feet. The amber occurs in both these, the clue to
its existence being the presence of small masses of lignite. The
searching occupies but very little time, as the presence of the lignite
is readily ascertained; all I saw dug out occurred as small irregular
deposits; it did not appear to be abundant. The people appear to have no
guide for the selections of favourable spots on which to commence their
operations; but having once met with a good pit, they dig other pits all
around, and often within a distance of two feet from the first one sunk.
I could not succeed in procuring a single fine specimen; indeed the
workmen denied having found any of value during the last six years! It
is an article in great request among the Chinese and Singphos; at the
pits, however, it is not high priced, and a first rate pair of ear-rings
are procurable at Meinkhoong for 5 tickals; in Assam 10 rupees are
occasionally given. Meinkhoong is annually visited by parties of Shan-
Chinese, for the purpose of procuring this mineral; the caravan at the
time I passed this village had returned, and I believe was met by Mr.
Bayfield. There was a small party of Lupai Singphos from the East of the
Irrawaddi, consisting of a Tsonba and six or seven followers still
waiting for a supply.
The spot occupied by pits is considerable, but three-fourths of these are
no longer worked. Compared with the Serpentine mines, they are but of
small value.
Both _Coal and Salt_ exist in the valley; the only indication of the
existence of the former I saw, was a mass of lignite in the bed of a
nullah between Tsilone and Meinkhoong.
_Vegetable products_.--Fine timber trees, {129} which belong to the
same genus as the Saul, occur between Nhempean and Namtusseek, and
elsewhere towards the foot of the hills surrounding the valley.
The Mulberry of Upper Assam occurs likewise, and the leaves supply with
food a species of silkworm. From the silk a coarse species of cloth is
manufactured, but the use of this appears to be very limited.
Tea appears to be of uncommon occurrence. The only specimens I saw were
given me by Mr. Bayfield, they were procured from low hills some distance
from Shellingket. On this subject Mr. Bayfield made very frequent and
minute enquiries, and the result appears to be that the plant is of rare
occurrence; none exists towards or about the amber mines.
The Room of Upper Assam (Ruellia Indigofera Mihi) is in use for dyeing
cloths, but not so much so as in Assam.
The cultivated plants are of the ordinary kind; and the produce is just
sufficient to meet the wants of the inhabitants. Owing to the presence
of the Myoowoon's force, rice was scarce during my visit; the price was
seven tickals a basket, each of which contains about 30 days' supply for
one man.
The domestic animals are of the ordinary description: fowls forming the
only poultry. But on this subject it is unnecessary to enlarge, as the
habits and manners of the people are precisely the same as those of the
Assamese Singphos.
IV. FROM WULLABHOOM TO MOGOUNG.
COUNTRY TRAVERSED FORMING CONSIDERABLE PORTION OF THE MOGOUNG VALLEY,
THROUGHOUT SUBJECT TO BURMESE AUTHORITY.
March 1. _Halted_ on a small stream, a tributary of the Mogoung
river.--Direction nearly S. distance 22 miles, course at first along the
Namphyet, thence over low hills, forming part of the S. boundary of the
valley of Hookhoong.
2. _Halted_ on the Mogoung river.--Direction S. distance 22 miles, over
similar low hills until we reached the Mogoung river after a march of
four hours, soon descending into its bed, which we followed.
3. _Mogoung_ river.--Direction S. distance 13 miles, course along the
bed of the river.
4. _Mogoung_ river.---Direction SE. distance 14 miles, course continued
along the bed of the river.
5. _Kamein_.--Direction SSE. distance 14 miles: on starting left the
Mogoung river: course throughout over fine open high plains intersected
by belts of jungle.
6. _From Kamein to Mogoung_.--Direction SSE. Distance 25 miles,
course over high open plains and dry woods. Many nullahs occurred on the
route: crossed the Mogoung river opposite to Kamein.
_Nature of the Country_.--The low hills which are passed before
reaching the Mogoung river, are covered with tree jungle, but they afford
scarcely any thing of interest; they are here and there intersected by
small plains, covered with the usual grasses. {130} The country
traversed while following the Mogoung river, is most uninteresting, the
road following almost entirely the sandy bed of the river, the banks of
which are either covered with grass or tree jungle. On leaving this most
tortuous river, the face of the country improved and became very
picturesque, presenting almost exclusively fine high, and rather
extensive plains covered with grass, and partially with trees, while here
and there they are intersected by strips of dry tree jungle. Low hills
are visible frequently, especially to the eastward.
_Villages and Towns_.
1. _Kamein_, on the right bank of the Mogoung river, at the junction of
the Endaw-khioung, consists of two stockades, one on a small hill the
other at the foot. Both together contain about 32 houses. The
inhabitants are Shans. It is a place of some consequence, as it is on
the route from Mogoung to the Serpentine mines. From Kamein, Shewe Down
Gyee, a conspicuous mountain, so called, bears east.
2. _Mogoung_, on the right bank of the river of the same name, just
below the junction to the Namyeen Khioung, contains rather fewer than 300
houses. Although it contains so few houses it is a place of considerable
extent. It is surrounded by the remains of a timber stockade, similar in
construction to those of Burmah proper. The houses are mostly small, and
I speak within bounds when I say, that there is not a single one that
bears the stamp of respectability. There is a bazaar, but nothing good
is procurable in it. Tea and sugar-candy are rare and high priced. Pork
is plentiful. Mogoung is situated in a plain of some extent, this plain
is surrounded in almost every direction by hills, all of which, with the
exception of Shewe Down Gyee, are low: the nearest of these are about
three miles off.
The inhabitants are mostly Shans, there are some Assamese, the chief of
whom is a relation of Chundra Kant, the ex-Rajah of Assam. The best
street in the town, though one of small extent, is that occupied by the
resident Chinese, none of whom however are natives of China proper. Of
this people I should say there are barely 60 in Mogoung, and, judging
from their houses, none of which are of brick, I should say they are very
inferior to their fellow-countrymen residing in Bamo.
During our stay in Mogoung, which was protracted owing to the disturbed
state of the country, the population was much increased by Shan-Chinese
returning from the Serpentine mines; and as there was a considerable
number of boats engaged by them for the transportation of the Serpentine,
the town looked busier than it otherwise would have done.
The Mogoung, river is here about 100 yards broad, but it is much
subdivided by sand banks: it is navigable for moderate sized boats a
considerable distance above the town. In the upper part of the course
this river abounds with fish to an unprecedented degree; of these the
most numerous is the Bokhar of Assam, and of this I have seen shoals of
immense extent.
The Namyeen is a small and shallow stream. Although from the extent of
the stockade Mogoung has evidently in former periods (during the Shan
dynasty) been of extent and consequence, it is at present a mean and
paltry town. It derives any little consequence it possesses from being
the rendezvous of the Shan-Chinese, who flock here annually for procuring
Serpentine.
The most valuable product of the Mogoung district is the Serpentine; the
mines producing which, we visited from Kamein. The marches are as
follows,
1. _From Kamein to Endawkhioung_.--Direction SSW. Distance 10
miles, course over low hills covered with jungle, with intervening grassy
valleys of small extent; crossed the Isee Een nullah.
2. _Halted on a plain_, on a patch of ground lately under
cultivation. Direction SSW. Distance 14 miles. Course over a similar
tract of country; continued for some time close to the Endawkhioung;
crossed several nullahs.
3. _Halted in the jungle_.--Direction WNW. Distance 17 miles.
Country the same: we changed our course on reaching the path which leads
to Kionkseik, a Singpho village, diverging to the N.; halted within a
short distance of Kuwa Bhoom.
4. _Reached the mines_.--Direction WNW. Distance 10 miles, course
over small plains and through jungle until we reached Kuwa Bhoom, which
we ascended in a WNW. direction, extreme altitude attained 2,799 feet.
The descent was steep, varied by one or two steep ascents of some hundred
feet in height. On nearing the base of the range we continued through
heavy and wet jungle, until we arrived at the mines.
These celebrated Serpentine {132} mines occupy a valley of somewhat semi-
circular form, and bounded on all sides by thickly wooded hills of no
great height. To the north the valley passes off into a ravine, down
which a small streamlet that drains the valley escapes, and along this,
at a distance of two or three miles, another spot of ground affording
Serpentine is said to occur. The valley is small: its greatest diameter,
which is from E. to W. being about three-quarters of a mile, and its
smallest breadth varying from 460 to 600 or 700 yards.
The whole of the valley, which appears formerly to have been occupied by
rounded hillocks, presents a confused appearance, being dug up in every
direction, and in the most indiscriminate way; no steps being taken to
remove the earth, etc. that have been thrown up in various places during
the excavations. Nothing in fact like a pit or a shaft exists, nor is
there any thing to repay one for the tediousness of the march from
Kamein.
The stone is found in the form of more or less rounded boulders mixed
with other boulders of various rocks and sizes imbedded in brick-coloured
yellow or nearly orange-coloured clay, which forms the soil of the
valley, and which is of considerable depth. The excavations vary much in
form, some resembling trenches; none exceed 20 feet in depth. The
workmen have no mark by which to distinguish at sight the Serpentine from
the other boulders; to effect this, fracture is resorted to, and this
they accomplish, I believe, by means of fire. I did not see the manner
in which they work, or the tools they employ, all the Shans having left
for Kamein, as the season had already been over for some days. No good
specimens were procurable. The workmen reside in the valley, drawing
their supplies from Kioukseik.
On our road to the mines we met daily, and especially on the last march,
parties of Shan-Chinese, Burmese, and a few Singphos on their return. Of
these in all Mr. Bayfield counted about 1,100, of whom about 700 were
Shan-Chinese: these were accompanied by ponies, which they ordinarily use
as beasts of burden. The larger blocks of stone were carried by four or
five men, on bamboo frames; the smaller, but which still are of
considerable size, on ingenious frames which rest on the nape of the
coolies' neck; the frame has two long arms which the bearer grasps in his
hand, and which enables him to relieve himself of his burden, and
re-assume it without much sacrifice of labour, as he props his load
against a tree, which is then raised by the legs of the frame some height
from the ground. The valley we visited affords I believe the greatest
quantity of the stone, which is said to be annually diminishing, neither
are pieces of the finest sort so often procurable as they were formerly
wont to be.
The path to the mines is on the whole good; it is choked up here and
there by jungle, and the occurrence of one or two marshy places
contribute to render it more difficult. It bears ample evidences of
being a great thoroughfare.
The greater part of the stone procured is removed in the large masses, to
Kioukseik, and thence by water by the aid of the Endawkhioung to Mogoung.
At this place duties are levied upon it. Hence almost the whole is taken
to Topo by water. From this place the Shan-Chinese carry it to their own
country on ponies.
From the stone various ornaments are made; from the inferior kind,
bangles, cups, etc. and from the superior, which is found in small
portions generally within the larger masses, rings, etc. The stone is, I
am informed by Mr. Bayfield, cut by means of twisted copper wire. The
price of the inferior kind is high.
It is from these mines that the province of Mogoung derives its
importance; so much so, that its revenue is said to exceed that of any
other Burman Province. The sum derived from the Serpentine alone is
stated to be occasionally as high as 40,000 Rs. per annum.
Owing to the avidity with which this product is sought after by the
Chinese, it is highly desirable to ascertain whether it exists in Assam,
which indeed is probably the case. I believe it is reported to exist
near Beesa; at any rate, blood-stone is found in this extremity of the
valley of Assam, and this, in Chinese eyes, is of considerable value. If
the Serpentine is found, specimens should be sent to Mogoung. As the
Shan-Chinese are reported to be a most penurious race, a small reduction
in the price below that of the Burmese, would suffice to divert the
current of the trade into Assam. Another interesting product, although
of no value, exists in the shape of an Alkaline spring on the Sapiya
Khioung, which hence derives its name. The water of this spring bubbles
up sparingly and quietly from under the rocky bed of the above mountain
torrent, it is quite clear, of a decided and pure alkaline taste: it is
used by the natives for the purpose of washing, and it answers this
remarkably well. Of this interesting spring Mr. Bayfield took specimens
for analysis.
Salt is procurable within a distance of three or four days from
Kioukseik.
_Vegetable products_.--Teak, and some of it is of a fine description,
occurs both on the route between the Mogoung river and Kamein, as well as
between Kamein and the Serpentine mines. The natives do not however
appear to cut it, probably owing to the want of water carriage. Fine
timber trees, nearly allied to the Saul, likewise occur on the road to
the mines.
I met with the tea but once. This occurred among the low hills dividing
the Mogoung district from the valley of Hookhoong, close to the Dupai-
beng-kheoung, or Tea tree Nullah. There was no difference in the
specimens brought to me from the plant of Assam, with the exception that
the leaves were even larger than in the plant alluded to; it did not
occur in abundance. It exists I believe, in another place on this route,
and among the same hills, but I did not succeed in procuring specimens.
Throughout both routes scarcely any cultivation was seen. Between the
Mogoung river and Mogoung town considerable portions of some low hills to
the East, presented the appearance of clearings. It must however be
observed, that the appearance of clearings is a most fallacious ground on
which to form an estimate of the population; 1st, owing to the habits of
a nomadic population; 2ndly, because a spot once cleared, keeps up the
appearance of a clearing for a long time; and 3rdly, because some
particular spots are, from some local cause or other, exclusively
inhabited by grasses, the prevalence of which will at a little distance
always give one the idea of cultivation.
_Population_.--This in the somewhat extensive tract of the Mogoung
district traversed, is very scanty. That of Mogoung and suburbs may be
estimated at about 1,600, and that of Kamein at 250. In addition to
these places, I have to mention a small Singpho village of three or four
houses, seen on a range of hills during our first march towards the
mines, and bearing about WNW., and Kioukseik. This latter place we
visited on our return from the mines, it is a stockaded village,
containing 16 houses, and about 120 souls. It is situated about 100
yards from a small stream, the Nam Teen: it is inhabited by Singphos: it
is about a mile from the divergence of the road to the mines, and bears
from this spot nearly due south. During the season of operations at the
mines it is a place of some consequence, as all the necessary supplies of
grain are procured from it. At the time of our visit, there was a good
sized bazaar along the Nam Teen, which was likewise a good deal crowded
by boats.
The neighbouring hills are inhabited here and there by Kukkeens, the most
troublesome perhaps of all mountainous tribes; but there are some other
villages about the lake, called the Endawgyee. We had an opportunity of
viewing from a distance the above lake on our return from the mines. From
an open spot on the eastern face of Kuwa Bhoom, it bore nearly due south,
and was estimated as being 15 miles distant. We could not distinguish
its outline, but we saw enough to satisfy us that it was a large body of
water. It is situated in an extensive plain near a range of hills, part
of which form portion of its banks. From the same spot we could see
Shewe Down Gyee, the large range from which the Namtunai takes its
course, bearing nearly due east, and at an estimated distance of 35
miles; the situation of the mines is therefore nearly due east from
Kamein.
V. FROM MOGOUNG TO AVA.
THE WHOLE OF THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO ABOVE PLACES WAS PERFORMED BY
WATER.
The time occupied in descending the Mogoung river was three days. This
river is exceedingly tortuous, generally a good deal subdivided, and its
channels are in many places shallow. The chief obstacle it presents to
navigation consists in rapids, which commence below Tapan, and continue
for some distance; these rapids are not severe, but are rendered
difficult by the presence of rocks, many of large size. These rapids
commence immediately the river in its course approaches some low ranges
of hills. Boats of considerable size however manage to reach Mogoung;
they ascend the severer rapids in channels made along the sides of the
river, by removing and piling up on either side the boulders which form
great part of the bed of the river in these places. The descent is
managed in the same way, the speed of the boat being retarded by the crew
exerting their united force in an opposite direction. On leaving the
proximity of the hills, the river resumes its natural and rather slow
character, and towards its mouth there is scarcely any stream at all. The
channels are much impeded by stumps of trees. The country through which
the Mogoung river passes is very uninteresting, and almost exclusively
jungle, either tree or high grass.
Only one village, Tapan, is met with; this is small, and is situated on
the right bank; with the exception of its river face it is stockaded. At
this place the Shan-Chinese leave the river, striking off in an E.
direction towards the Irrawaddi, which they reach in one day. We
observed a small Kukkeen village on some hills near Tapan; with these
exceptions no sign of inhabitants occurred until we reached the
Irrawaddi. On the hills above alluded to, the bitter Tea is reported to
exist. The Mogoung river at its mouth is about 70 yards across. The
Irrawaddi even at the mouth of the Mogoung river, and at a distance of
nearly 800 miles from the sea, keeps up its magnificent character. At
this point it is 900 or 1,000 yards across; when we reached it, it had
risen considerably, and the appearance of this vast sheet of water was
really grand. Its characters are very different from the Ganges and
Burrumpooter, its waters being much more confined to one bed, and
comparatively speaking becoming seldom spread out. Generally speaking it
is deep and the stream is not violent. It appears to me to afford every
facility for navigation; in one or two places troublesome shallows are
met with, and in several places the channel near the banks is impeded by
rocks. It is only in the upper defile, or Kioukdweng, that the
navigation is during the rises of the river dangerous, and at times
impracticable. On our reaching Tsenbo, which is about 12 miles below the
junction of the Mogoung river with the Irrawaddi, the river continued to
rise in a most rapid degree, Mr. Bayfield ascertaining by measurement
that it rose 16 inches an hour. We were consequently compelled to push
on, as we were informed that the next day the defile would be impassable.
The Kioukdweng alluded to commences about two miles below Tsenbo, the
river becoming constricted from 1000 to 150 yards. The rush of water was
great, and was rendered fierce by rocks which exist in the midst of the
river. Still further within the defile the difficulties were increased;
at one place the whole of the enormous body of water rushes through a
passage, and it is the only one, certainly not exceeding 50 yards in
width. The passage of this was really fearful, for on clearing it we
were encountered by strong eddies, backwaters and whirlpools, which
rendered the boat nearly unmanageable. These scenes continued, varied
every now and then by an expanded and consequently more tranquil stream,
until a gorge is passed, well known by the name of the "Elephant and
Cow," two rocks which are fancifully supposed to resemble the above named
animals; the defile then becomes much wider, and the waters flow in a
tranquil and rather sluggish manner. The depth of the river in this
defile is, as may be supposed, immense; Mr. Bayfield ascertained during
his passage up, at a season when the waters were low, that in many places
no bottom was to be found at a depth of 45 fathoms. The necessity of
this enormous depth is at once evident, and is pointed out by the
configuration of the banks, which are in many places sheer precipices.
Two other defiles exist between Bamo and Ava, of these the middle or
second is the shortest, in both the stream flows sluggishly, and there is
no impediment whatever to navigation. In these the depth is great, but
owing to their greater width, much less so than in the upper.
The temperature of the waters of the Irrawaddi is as usually obtains,
except during the rises of the river caused by the melting of snow, when
it is higher than usual.
_Tributaries of the Irrawaddi between Mogoung river and_
_Ava_.
The number of tributaries even to Rangoon is unprecedentedly small: this
tends to increase the astonishment with which one regards this
magnificent river.
The rivers that fall into the Irrawaddi within the above distance are,
1st. The Mogoung river.
2nd. Tapien Khioung, above Bamo.
3rd. Shewe Lee Khioung.
These are about the same size, and only discharge a considerable quantity
of water during the rainy season. The Shewe Lee at its mouth, is between
5 and 600 yards wide, but only an inconsiderable portion of this is
occupied by water, and this to no depth.
The great branch from which the Irrawaddi derives its vast supply of
water still remains to be discovered, and will probably be found to be
the Shoomaee Kha. It is evident, at any rate, that the great body of
water comes from the eastward, for between the Mogoung river and
Borkhamtee, in which country Captain Wilcox visited the Irrawaddi, and
where it was found to be of no great size, no considerable branch finds
its way from the Westward: neither are the hills which intervene between
these points, of such height as to afford large supplies of water.
On the whole it is, I think, probable, that the Irrawaddi is an outlet
for some great river, which drains an extensive tract of country; for it
appears to me that if all its waters are poured in by mountain streams, a
tract of country extensive beyond all analogy, will be required for the
supply of such a vast body of water.
In addition to the above three rivers, few nullahs exist, but these are
scarcely worthy of consideration.
_Nature of the country_.--From the mouth of the Mogoung river
nearly to Tsenbo the country is flat, and the banks wooded or covered
with grass to the brink. The range of hills which form the upper
Kioukdweng there commence, and continue for a distance of 16 or 20 miles,
during the whole of which they form the banks of the river. These hills
are scantily covered with trees, most of which are in addition stunted.
The vegetation within the maximum high water mark consists of a few
scraggy shrubs. The rocks composing these hills are principally
serpentine, which within the influence of the water is of a dark sombre
brown colour. Limestone occurs occasionally.
From this Kioukdweng to the second, the entrance of which (coming from
above) is at Tsenkan, the features of the country are of the ordinary
alluvial description, and the river is a good deal spread out and
subdivided by islands, covered with moderate sized grasses. On leaving
the second Kioukdweng the same scenery occurs, the banks are generally
tolerably high, often gravelly or clayey. About Tsagaiya, a few miles
below the mouth of the Shewe Lee, low hills approach the river, and they
continue along one or both banks {139} at variable distance until one
reaches Ava. These hills are all covered with a partial and stunted
vegetation, chiefly of thorny shrubs, and present uniformly a rugged
raviny and barren appearance. The scenery of the river is in many places
highly picturesque, and in the upper Kioukdweng and portion of the
second, where there is a remarkable cliff of about 3,000 feet in height,
bold and even grand.
_Villages and Towns_.--These although numerous compared with the
almost deserted tracts hitherto passed, are by no means so much so as to
give an idea of even a moderate population. From the mouth of the
Mogoung river to the Kioukdweng there are several villages, but all are
small, mean, and insignificant. Strange to say, they are defenceless,
although the neighbouring Kukkeens are dangerous and cruel neighbours.
Nothing can be more calculated to shew the weakness of the Burmese
government than the fact, that the most mischievous and frequent
aggressions of these hill tribes always go unpunished, although a short
time after an attack the very band by whom it has been made will enter
even large towns to make purchases, perhaps with money the produce of
their robberies.
The upper Kioukdweng has a very scanty population, consisting of a
distinct race of people called Phoons: who are sub-divided into two
tribes, the greater and lesser Phoons. About 12 villages occur in this
defile, and Mr. Bayfield says that the population is almost entirely
confined to the banks of the river: all these villages are small.
Between the defile and Bamo a good number of villages occur, the largest
of which does not contain more than 100 houses, the generality are small
and mean. Bamo, which is a place of celebrity, and is perhaps the third
town in Burmah, is situated on the left bank of the river, which is here,
including the two islands which subdivide it into three channels, about a
mile and a quarter in width; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the
principal one. The town occupies rather a high bank of yellow clay,
along which it extends for rather more than a mile, its extreme breadth
being perhaps 350 yards. It is surrounded by a timber stockade, the
outer palisades being well pangoed; the defences had just undergone
repair owing to an expected attack from the Kukkeens. It contains within
the stockade rather less than 600 houses, (the precise number was
ascertained personally by Mr. Bayfield,) and including the suburbs, which
consist of two small villages at the northern end, one at the southern,
and one occupied by Assamese at the eastern, it contains about 750
houses. These are generally of the usual poor and mean description;
indeed, not even excepting the Governor's house, there is not a good
Burman or Shan house in the place. One street which occupies a portion
of the river bank, is inhabited by Chinese, and contains about 100
houses; these are built of unburnt brick, and have a peculiar blueish
appearance; none are of any size. The best building in Bamo is the
Chinese place of worship. Those occupied by the Burmese have the usual
form. The country adjoining Bamo is flat, dry, and I should think
unproductive; it is intersected by low swampy ravines, one or two of
which extend into the town. To the south there is an extensive marsh,
partially used for rice-cultivation.
The population of Bamo including the suburbs, may be estimated at about
4500, of whom 4 or 500 are Chinese. The governor is a bigoted Burman, of
disagreeable manners; he expends much money in the erection of Pagodas,
while he leaves the streets, roads and bridges by which the ravines are
passed, in a ruinous and disgraceful state.
The Bazaar of Bamo is generally well supplied: British piece goods and
woollen cloths are procurable, but at a high price: the show of Chinese
manufactures is much better, particularly on the arrival of a caravan;
considerable quantities of Tea are likewise brought in the shape of flat
cakes, of the size of a dessert plate, and about two inches thick. This
tea is of the black sort, and although very inferior to the Chinese case
teas, is a far better article than that of Pollong. In addition to this,
warm jackets lined with fur, straw hats, silk robes, skull-caps, and
sugar-candy are procurable; pork of course is plentiful, and is
excessively fat; grain, vegetables and fish are plentiful. On the whole
Bamo is a busy and rather flourishing place: it derives its consequence
entirely from its being a great emporium of trade with the Chinese, who
come here annually in large numbers; for the accommodation of these
people and their caravans, two or three squares, fenced in with bamboos,
are allotted.
The principal article of Burmese export is cotton, and this I believe is
produced for the most part lower down the Irrawaddi.
The climate of Bamo is in April dry and sultry: the range of the
thermometer being from 66 degrees or 68 degrees to 94 degrees or 96
degrees. North-westers are of common occurrence in this month, and are
frequently of extreme severity. I saw very little cultivation about
Bamo, some of the ravines alluded to had lately been under rice-culture;
the chief part of the cultivation for vegetables, etc. is confined to the
sandy islands, which occur here and there.
Of the numerous villages passed between Bamo and Ava not one deserves
especial notice, nor is there one, with the exception of Umeerapoora, the
former capital, which contains 500 houses. Shewegyoo, which formerly
occupied a considerable extent of the left bank near the south opening of
the second Kioukdweng had been burnt by the orders of the Monein
Myoowoon, on account of their having supplied troops to the emissaries of
the Tharawaddi. Kioukgyee, the residence of the above governor, had a
short time before our arrival been invested by a force in the interest of
the Tharawaddi, but had been repulsed. The governor was to proceed with
the whole population, amounting to several hundred souls, to Bamo, to
join his forces with those of the Bamo governor. This part of the
country was most unsettled and almost deserted. On reaching Katha the
state of the country was more tranquil, all the people below this point
having espoused the cause of the Tharawaddi. Katha contains 200 houses,
and has a rather respectable bazaar; it is well situated, and has the
most eligible site in my opinion, of all the towns hitherto seen. The
most remarkable object is a noble Kioung, or Mosque, built by the head-
man of the place; this is one of the finest now existing in Burma.
The only other large place is Sheenmaga, about a day's journey from Ava.
This is said to contain 1,000 houses. An extensive fire had lately
occurred here. I counted 200 houses, and judging from the extent of the
ruins, I should say it might probably have numbered between 4 and 500.
There are several villages contiguous to this, and I think that the
district immediately contiguous is more populous than any part hitherto
seen.
During the above portion of the journey our halts were as follows:--
1. Tapaw.
2. Mogoung river.
3. Mogoung river.
4. Lemar, in the upper Kioukdweng.
5. Bamo.
6. Tsenkan.
7. Kioukgyee.
8. Katha.
9. Tsagaya.
10. Tagoung.
11. Male, at the entrance of the lower Kioukdweng.
12. Kabuet, in the lower Kioukdweng.
13. Male.
14. Menghoon.
15. Ava.
This distance down the Irrawaddi may, in a fast boat, be performed in ten
days, but owing to the disturbed state of the country we were compelled
to avail ourselves of the first opportunity that offered to enable us to
reach Ava; in addition the proper number of boatmen was not procurable,
everybody being afraid of approaching the capital even a few miles.
The chief product I saw was Teak, of this there were large rafts at
Tsenkan and elsewhere. This tree seems to abound in the hills forming
the NE. boundaries of Burmah. I did not, however, see any of large size.
Tea is found on hills to the east of Bamo, and at a distance of one day's
journey from that place. Through the kindness of Mr. Bayfield, I was
enabled to procure specimens; the leaves were decidedly less coarse, as
well as smaller, than those of the Assamese plants, and they occurred
both serrated and entire. No use is made of the wild plants in this
direction, and the Chinese at Bamo, asserted that it was good for
nothing. It must be remembered, however, that none of them had seen the
plant cultivated in China. Indeed the only real Chinaman we saw, was one
at Kioukgyee, serving the Myoowoon as a carpenter: this man had been to
England twice, and talked a little English.
Cotton is, I was informed, extensively cultivated.
But the most valuable product is the Ruby, which is procured from hills
to the eastward of Tsenbo, and which are, I believe, visible from the
opposite town, Mala. From the same place and to the SE., low hills are
visible, from which all the marble in extensive use for the carving of
images, is obtained; this marble has been pronounced by competent
authority to be of first-rate quality.
_Population_.--This must be considered as scanty. From a list of towns
and villages, observed by Captain Hannay, between Ava and Mogoung
inclusive, I estimated the population at 100,000 souls, but from this one-
third at least must be deducted. In this estimate of the number of
houses, Captain Hannay was probably guided, either by the Burmese census,
or by the statement of the writer who accompanied him. From the numbers
given by this officer, in almost every case one-third, and occasionally
one-half, or even more, must be deducted: as instances, I may cite his
statement of the number of houses in Bamo and Katha.
In almost every case Mr. Bayfield counted all the houses, and in all
doubtful cases, I counted them also at his request, so that I am enabled
to speak with great confidence on this point.
As a collateral proof of the scanty population of this extensive portion
of the Burmese territory, I may allude to the fact that Bamo, the third
place in Burmah, and the emporium of great part of an extensive Chinese
trade, contains only even at the rate of seven souls to each house, which
is two too many, 4,250 inhabitants. The capital may be adduced as an
additional instance; for including the extensive suburbs, no one
estimated it as having a larger population than 100,000. It must be
remembered also, that there is no doubt, but that the banks of the
Irrawaddi are more populous than any other portion of the kingdom.
Throughout the above rather long journey, we were treated, with one
exception, tolerably well; indeed our delays arose from the
unwillingness, real or pretended, of the authorities to forward us on
while the country remained so unsettled. The headman of Kamein on our
first arrival was extremely civil, but on our return after he had
received news of the revolt of the Tharawaddi, he behaved with great
insolence, and actually drew his dha on Mr. Bayfield. It must be
remembered however that he had been brought to task by the Mogoung
authorities for having, as it was said, accepted of a douceur for
allowing us to proceed to the serpentine mines.
The general idea entertained by the people through whose countries we
passed, was, that we had been sent to report upon the country prior to
its being taken under British protection. Of the existence of this idea,
Mr. Bayfield met with some striking proofs.
On reaching Katha our troubles ceased, and these, excepting at Kamein and
Mogoung, only arose from the evident wish of the natives to keep at a
distance from us, and not to interfere in one way or the other. At
Mogoung I consider it probable that we should have been detained had it
not been for the firm conduct of Mr. Bayfield, and his great knowledge of
the Burmese character. At this place the authority of the Myoowoon, who
was absent in Hookhoong, was totally disregarded, and his brother the
Myoowoah, was in confinement, the Shan Matgyee having espoused the cause
of the prince Tharawaddi.
_Conclusion_.--For the brief and rapid manner in which I have run through
this last section of my report, as well as for having forsaken the
arrangement adopted in the previous sections, I trust I shall be excused.
In the first place, this portion of the route had been previously
travelled over by Captain Hannay and by Mr. Bayfield, by whom much
additional information will be laid before Government; and in the second
place, I would advert to the hurried nature of this part of our journey,
and to the disturbed state of the country. For similar reasons I have
only drawn up this account to the period of my reaching Ava. It will be
at once seen that the information might have been much more extensive,
especially as regards the revenues of the districts, but I abstained from
interfering with subjects which were in every respect within the province
of Mr. Bayfield; and the minute and accurate manner in which this officer
performed the duties consigned to him, reconciled me at once to the
secondary nature of the objects which were left for my examination.
I subjoin a tabular view of the marches, this will not agree entirely
with those given in the body of the report, as one or two of those were
unavoidably short. I give the table to shew the shortest period in which
the journey could be accomplished by an European without constantly
overfatiguing himself. If the total distance be compared with an
estimate made from charts, all of which however are imperfect so far as
the country between Meinkhoong and Beesa is concerned, the tortuousness
of our course will be at once evident.
Marches. Miles
1 From Sadya to Noa Dehing Mookh, 6
2 To Rangagurreh, 12
3 To Moodoa Mookh, 12
4 To Kidding, 9
5 To Namroop Puthar, 12
6 To Beesa Lacoom, 12
7 To Halting place in the hills, 12
8 To Darap Panee, 12
9 To the Namtuseek, 12
10 Namtuseek, 10
11 To the Boundary Nullah, 12
12 To the Namaroan, 15
13 Namaroan, 13
14 To Khathung Khioung, 15
15 To Khussee Khioung, 13
16 To Kuttack Bhoom, 13
17 To Namtuseek, 10
18 To Nhempean, 18
19 To Kulleyang, 17
20 To Tsilone, 10
21 To Meinkhoong, 17
22 To Wullabhoom, 13
23 To Halting place towards the
Mogoung river, 22
24 Mogoung river, 15
25 Ditto ditto, 13
26 Ditto ditto, 14
27 Kamein, {145} 14
28 Mogoung, 25
---
Total number of miles, 378
The remaining distance performed in
boats may be thus estimated down the
Mogoung river to the Irrawaddi, 45
From the confluence of the Mogoung
river down the Irrawaddi to Ava, 240
---
663
---
Allowing twelve days for the performance of this last portion, which
however is too short a time, the entire distance may be performed in
forty days.