The road from town to St Sampson, winds through a low and flat country,
occasionally interrupted by marshes, and in the winter oftentimes by inland
water. The soil is sandy, and in some places boggy, consequently yielding
but indifferent crops in contrast with the other districts of the island.
The farms are but indifferent, and the gardens, from having a Southern
aspect, produce abundance of flowers. A little while ago, at Glatney, at a
house called La Piette, was a beautiful aloe upwards of fourteen feet in
height, which the year before last was in full bloom. Lining the road are a
few genteel cottages, evidently built for strangers and families visiting
the Island. To the left is Ivy Castle, which from being situated in a marsh
is hardly to be approached unless in summer and the weather remarkably dry.
It is a Saxon building and is surrounded with trees, which give it a
novelty of appearance. At present the interior is laid out in a kind of
garden, and belongs to the Governor.
On the top of Delancey Hill, were once barracks sufficiently capacious for
5000 troops. They are now pulled down and the land let out by Government,
upon conditions of being re-entered upon, as occasion may require, &c. From
this height may be seen a variety of views, such as Sark, Herm, and Jethou,
and on the other hand the sloping meads of the Valle, losing themselves in
the gentle uplands of the Câtel. Underneath are the Salt Pans, or shallow
pools laid out for the purpose of making bay-salt. In this neighbourhood
the botanist may discover specimens of orobanche major, ruscus aculeatus
and spartium scoparium, the former of which is by no means uncommon on
Delancey Hill and the adjacent furze fields.
The sea coast abounds in shells and curious pebbles, and is defended from
the encroachment of the sea by grey and blue granite, which more or less is
the usual belt of the Island.
At La Grosse Hougue is a small demi-dolmen which stands on the brow of a
hill, so that it may be seen on either side. A small quantity of pottery
was found under it, and it is said the late proprietor found human bones
when breaking up an adjoining field. Several celts or stone wedges were
picked up on this Hougue, and at a short distance from the hill is a stone
pulpit, or as it is called "La Chaire du Prêtre." It appears to be on its
natural bed, and to be shaped with some design, of which the purpose may be
well conjectured. Some suppose it to have belonged to the chapel of St
Clair which once stood on an estate of that name, situate at a short
distance. Near this spot are three upright stones, which probably belonged
to a cromlech, as at several times various remains have been found. In the
vicinity the botanist can basket a few specimens of osmunda regalis, the
leaves of which are rather bluer than the English, and the protuberances
more numerous.
On entering St Sampson's church, the whole of the interior will be remarked
to be exceedingly rude, plain and massive in its architecture, and the
walls partially deepened with the dark green tints of age and antiquity.
Most of its original character is lost and buried beneath the continued
alterations of modern art, and the observer of ancient tracery and
sculptorship will find but little to amuse him beyond a mutilated piscina
or circular door-way. A squinch thrown across an arcade may be conjectured
for strength were it not confuted by two buttresses on the outside.
St Sampson's Harbour is almost the attraction of every one, as it is one of
those excellent inland waters formed by nature, which by a comparatively
low expenditure may be converted to an excellent purpose, and the
mechanical genius will readily declare the feasibility. The Valle Castle is
apparently situated on an abrupt mound, and as it were overlooking the sea,
that gives it a truly picturesque effect meriting the attention of the
artist. On entering one is pleasingly disappointed to find its interior far
superior to what may be expected, as it is kept in good order, and is
replete with every necessary preparation of barracks, which purpose it
represents. The area within is spacious and open, and will afford room for
the exercise of some hundred troops; the apartments are numerous, and the
ramparts above well worthy the attention of the visitor.
It is said a late Lord Mayor of London was formerly a stone-cutter at this
harbour, and that he subsequently acquired great wealth. It appears that
having left England for a youthful frolic, he came to Guernsey in great
distress, where he was employed as a journeyman stone-cutter by a
respectable farmer in the Valle. Returning to London, he fell in with a
street paved with Guernsey stone, and from his knowledge of the island was
hired by the contractor as a foreman, when by his industry he amassed a
fortune, was elected Alderman, and finally elevated to the civic dignity of
Lord Mayor of London. Strange to remark it remained unknown to the island
until Sir John Doyle, then Lieutenant-Governor of Guernsey, dining one day
at the Mansion-House, was asked by the Alderman next to him how his old
master was at the Valle? "Your master!" replied the General, somewhat
surprised. "Yes," said the Alderman, "the master for whom I worked as a
journeyman stone-cutter at St Sampson's harbour, when I was a wild young
man; pray remember me kindly to him as William Staines, and say that I
shall be most happy to receive him in London."
Pursuing the road, you arrive at the entrance of Lancresse Common, where
there is a small public-house called the Valle Tavern, which from the
encouragement given it on race days and annual reviews, affords every
comfort for the traveller. Here he can unload his basket, and call for a
pint of good wine, or if he likes can order a beef-steak whilst he takes a
peep in and about the adjoining church. Such being the case, he will find
it an antiquated building, but which, from many modern alterations, smacks
of deformity, especially the vaulted roof. The chancel is the earliest
part, but of a much later Norman style than that of St Sampson's. The
tracery on an East window in the North aisle is wrought up to a
considerable effect by the chisel, and somewhat represents a lyre. The
aisle is altogether of the decorative style, and in the East end is a
stone, in which was once a monumental brass containing effigies of a man,
his wife, and children, and which for some time was given out as the Abbot
of St Michael.
[Illustration: Vale Tavern]
Having refreshed himself and smacked his lips over a good glass of
tawny-port, he will in all probability proceed towards the Cromlechs. If
so, I would remind him on entering the common, to cast his eye to the
right, where, as an artist, he will see a pretty wooded ait, called
"Snipe-Isle," half hid among tall spear and standing in the middle of a
glittering pool of water. There is a small flat bottomed boat, but as the
water is exceedingly shallow it forms only a winter pool, being dried up
throughout the summer. The back scenery enriches the picture in clumps of
trees, hoary rocks, and the expansive ocean; and the little holme is a
dense mass of trees.
[Illustration: Snipe Isle.]
[Illustration]
Lancresse Common forms an annual race course, which in the summer, during
the race week, is rendered exceedingly gay from the erection of booths and
other displays. About the centre of the Common, on a gentle rising, are a
number of immense stones, forming a cave in which one can stand erect. They
once contained human ashes, pottery, celts, and an arrow-head, together
with many other curious remains. The sepulchre is covered with several
ponderous stones, one of which is of an immense size, and apparently only
supported on the pinnacles or edges of two erect smaller ones. These
remains are surrounded by an elevated circular mound, with two evident
entrances through the North and West sides, which may be perceived to
resemble those spots of convocation among the ancient Druids, which so
frequently occur in other countries. Standing on the apex of the large
altar stone the views become very extensive, and combine a great diversity
of scenery. The Valle Castle with the immediate foreground, and the
tapering masts of the shipping forms a fine picture in contrast with the
back scenery of the town and the adjacent heights of Fort George.
[Illustration]
On the Eastern part of the plain, immediately below the hill above
mentioned, is another cromlech, circumgirt on all sides with curious
stones, the position of which are very singular, if placed in contrast with
those adjoining. About an hundred yards from hence, towards the North-east,
may be seen the portion of a circle rendered perfect by the upright stones
still standing; and in 1837, in an adjacent spot, were discovered several
stone graves. A little to the right may be perceived a cairn, which is
called "La Rocque Balan," where Fancy can fashion divine honours were paid
to the God of Belenus, the Sun or Apollo. There are many of these remains
in this locality, and a logan stone, with some others, have been swept away
by the ruthless hands of the peasantry.
Extending the walk to the extreme point, the geologist will discover
spacious quarries of blue and grey granite, which are worked for
exportation to London. This is a very solitary spot, and being a
considerable jut into the sea, is defended by quantities of immense rocks
in the utmost state of confusion, amongst which are found many curious
marine plants.
Taking an inland direction, the agriculturist will perceive extensive
fields of a deep sandy loam, well charged with vraic or sea weed, that put
forth considerable crops of beet-root, which in this light soil attain
their utmost bulk, by reason of the freedom allowed for their proper
expansion. Contrary to the English fashion, the fields contain a mixed
crop, such as brocoli plants, potatoes, and parsnips, the former of which
are generally well bestrewed with vraic. In the neighbourhood is the rock,
"La Hougue Patris," which is almost hid among the furze, and which contains
an impression that Fancy may whimsically fashion into the tread of an hoof.
The peasantry regard it as something mysterious, and call it "Le Pied du
B[oe]uf." The resemblance is so exact that it is no marvel it should thus
forcibly draw their attention. "Les Brayes," the rocks opposite, are said
to contain the same kind of impression on which ignorant speculation has
worked up many superstitious and base stories.
[Illustration (from next page)]
Making a circuitous bend, you pass through a low, flat, kind of valley, or
immediately under the residence of Mr Augustus Dobrée, whose house is
situated on a mound or height, that can scarce fail to be recognized, as it
is the only one of importance in the neighbourhood. The country, in this
part, still continues marshy, subject to damps and inundations, and
yielding but scanty crops of potatoes, parsnips and beet, which latter
rarely attains a bulk beyond three inches in thickness and thirteen in
length. The botanist will be amused with a variety of specimens of aquatic
plants and by an unbounded quantity of cotyledon umbilicus which shrouds
every old wall. The artist will find a picture combining wood, hill, vale
and rustic buildings, completed by a brilliant gleam of inland waters.
Continuing the road to Grande Rocque, the gardens on either side continue
to increase in beauty, until they break out into full bloom at the Friquet
and other richer parts of the Câtel parish. On this rout the botanist will
fall in with the Queen's meadow, which in the months of July and August,
literally speaking, is a sheet of camomile flower.
[Illustration]
From Grande Rocque the views are very excellent; to the right, on an
eminence at the Western point of the bay, is Roc-du-Guet, or Watch-Rock, a
small battery that in war time was a telegraphic station.
[Illustration]
Straight a-head is a small, but neat cottage, standing alone on the sand
plains, the residence of a Mr Saunders; behind are the sloping uplands of
Câtel, which, as they approach the town, are diversified with sylvan beauty
and elegant houses. To the left, on some distant sand plains, and on a
gentle rising is a curious old rock, technically called the "Giant's Head,"
from its vast resemblance to that fancied form. It is the resting place of
the cormorant and other wild birds of prey, and the hollow on the top of
the head is filled with half digested fish bones and beetles. In summer it
is generally the resort of pic-nic parties, whose groups form a very quaint
appearance at this curious place. Between this and Grande Rocque is Grande
Mare, which was formerly a noble sheet of water abounding with carp and
other fish. At present only a vestige of it can be seen during the winter
months, as it has been drained off at a considerable expence.
[Illustration (from prior page)]
[Illustration]
Continuing the road, on the right is a fine old Saxon arch leading to
Blancbois, a large farm belonging to Mr Lainé. A little further is
Saumarez, the mansion of the Lady Dowager De Saumarez, a quadrangular
building, remarkable for a kind of belfry on the top which gives it a
curious effect. It is built of granite and is surrounded with umbrageous
trees, and tastefully laid out gardens, abounding in flowers. In the front
is a small pool, which from being hemmed in by a wall is rather a deformity
than an addition, as it smacks of the artificial. The adjoining grounds are
pretty, but of the usual character, small and circumscribed, and some
connected gardens figure boldly for a number of fine myrtles, outlandish
trees and numerous lillies of the valley. The district is nearly the same
as we have just past, with the exception of the orchard scenery being much
more florid, the fields sheltered with trees, and the ground much better
dairy land.
[Illustration]
A cow generally yields from twelve to fifteen pounds of butter throughout
the summer, and the farms are somewhat remarkable for their fine ducks. The
grounds connected with the curious house of Miss Le Marchant have an
English aspect to a considerable degree, and in the centre of one, the
property of the late Mr Le Pelley, is a curious old elm.
[Illustration]
Someways to the left in a well screened valley, and immediately behind the
parsonage-house, is the country hospital. It was built in 1753 and has
upwards of forty vergées of excellent land attached to it which in part
supports its inmates, who are employed in its cultivation, thereby enjoying
the advantage of constant fresh air and exercise. The apartments are
commodious and cleanly, and are the receptacle of the destitute and infirm
of all the country parishes, as also two-thirds of those orphans and widows
who are left by soldiers dying in garrison. The sick ward conveniently
fronts a sunny garden abounding with flowers and fruits, the former of
which goes much towards exhilarating the sick. Divine Service is performed
by the country ministers in turn, and the children which attend have
nurseries and schools.
[Illustration]
St George, the residence of Colonel Guille, our present Baillif, is
charmingly situated amid woods of stately oak, beech and other timber, and
is esteemed by Englishmen and others of sound taste to be a better specimen
of English country scenery than any other in the island. The stranger
perhaps will see but little to attract him in the house, as it is small,
and but little discretion in the style; but then this is amply compensated
in the back scenery, which includes park-like grounds, rendered doubly
interesting from being beautified with sheep, which may be perhaps the only
opportunity he will have of seeing them in the island, and even here they
are, according to the law, either tied by the leg or pent in folds.
[Illustration]
Diverging towards the sea on an eminence overlooking the wide main, and a
considerable territory of fens, called the "Pontine Marshes," is a kind of
look-out house or summer retreat belonging to the above gentleman. Here the
stranger has a broad-cast view of the fenny country beneath, which in the
winter is the beat of the wild-fowl shooter, as it is the resort of the
bittern, the heron, and a variety of other curious birds[A]; therefore if
he can regard the gunner and his dog wading through a wild tract of rushes,
marshes and vistas of tall spear, with a picturesque eye, this is the spot.
Looking inland he will see the beautiful wooded district he has just left,
connecting itself in an apparently unbroken chain until it loses itself
amid the beautiful confines and valley of the King's Mills, where, on
retreating back a little, he will soon find himself. Throughout this rout
the botanist will fall in with digitalis purpurea, convallaria majalis,
artemisia vulgaris, and a curious specimen of salix, together with
abundance of teucrium scordonia, which is as common and unregarded an herb
as any in the island, though possessing such excellent medical properties
as a tonic. However, hoping he will take this hint, and give it a trial, we
must leave him for the sake of the conchologist and geologist, whom no
doubt have both taken a rout by the sea-shore, and by this time must have
bagged a variety of shells, inasmuch as this line of coast displays some
beautiful sorts, such as black, white, yellow and red.
[A] A certain town gentleman shot a fine bittern in these marshes, as
also that beautiful bird, the egret, or lesser-bittern.
The neighbourhood abounds in a deep and rich soil capable of producing the
best crops, such as wheat, barley, potatoes and parsnips, which latter
crop, if the stranger has been here any time, he must have discovered, is
the chief growth of the Guernsey farmer. There are many rich fields in this
vicinity that can and do grow about twenty and a quarter tons to the
English acre, which, when dug, generally sell at about one shilling per
bushel, but afterwards rise in proportion. In the more sheltered parts are
waving corn fields, which though equally fine elsewhere, nevertheless are
shaken by the winds from the altitude of the situation. Vraic is not so
much used as in the Valle.
The King's Mills is a secluded and delightful situation, and more or less
is the attraction of all visitors. The orchard scenery is florid, and the
ground exceedingly good from being stimulated by the invigorating salts of
the vraic, and the cyder has been considered the best in the island. The
scenes abound with much interest, and are by no means too clogged for the
pencil of the artist. The herbs are generally medical and of the tall
kinds.
[Illustration]
A little way up the stranger will break upon the most lovely valley he ever
sat eyes on. It is in fact a bason, circumgirt on all sides, with a more or
less quantity of beautiful trees and underwood. In the centre, on a gentle
rising, are the farm premises of Mr Dorey, which is entered from the road
by a curious old broken Saxon arch. Adjoining the farmyard, is a gigantic
holly-tree, measuring at the base seven feet two inches in circumference,
and midway up four feet six inches and one eight, having for its
recommendation a clean and healthy stem whereon not a single knot or other
imperfection can be traced upon its silver-skinned bark from the root
upwards. The tree itself stands about fifty feet, and the trunk twenty-five
feet. In the above valley is every thing that can fascinate the poet, the
painter, and the admirer of the picturesque, and if the stranger's visit to
this charming spot should be in the autumn, he may perhaps indulge with the
author; for it was a beautiful day, on the threshold of winter, that he
visited it under the following impression:--
[Illustration from previous page]
Here, fain would we look back or linger where we are, for many charms yet
surround us; true, indeed, a fairer vision is receding from us,--brighter
skies and a greener earth; but when we look around, and see the beauteous
hues which yet garnish the woods, and the few blossoms that still faintly
smile upon their stalks, we feel a sympathy with the melancholy cast of the
season; and almost fancy that neither the cheerful visions of the spring,
the glowing luxuriance of summer, nor the mellow tints of autumn, equal the
sombre charm of the closing scene. Surely none speak to the heart with such
impressive language, none so full of calm thoughts, sober recollections,
and gentle feelings. Who that ever trod this sylvan valley, rustling
beneath his feet the heaps of leaves that once danced greenly and gaily on
the outstretched bows, but dwells on abject prospects, blighted hopes,
joys, loves, affections cherished and buried? Who that hears amid this
stillness, the drop of a leaf amid its companions, but is feelingly and
touchingly reminded that all natural things decay. He feels that the
holiday of youth is past into summer--summer into autumn, and that he too
must soon drop as noiseless and as silent as that leaf before him in the
winter of his life. But let me for a moment part from this moral strain,
and walk in fellow companionship to yonder mound and beat the leaves in our
way, for there are many lovely pictures which linger before the eye as we
wade through them in the stillness of an October noon; such as the deep red
of some, the ashen hue of others, with all the intermediate tints of orange
and yellow, and the brown duskier hues that deepen into nothingness and
decay. The dark shining green of the holly, with its scarlet berries in
connexion with the adjoining laurel, bears to the poetic feeling
amalgamized ideas of youth and age,--the berry bearing tribe of bushes
bending to the earth with the weight of their neglected riches, and the
dark sloe with its hoar-frost film, all tend to form a fit subject for the
pen of the immortal Gilpin in his Northern Tints of Forest Scenery, in
which peculiar strain he is the most exalted of all living and dead
writers--
"The little red leaf, the last of its clan,
That dances as long as dance it can,
Hanging so light and hanging so high
On the top-most twig that looks up to the sky."
Now we have emerged from the trees, let me point to yonder water-mill, that
lies immediately under the côtil. How beautifully plays the feathery foam
over the wheel, and how it dances and leaps over the little one which so
swiftly runs round! In October everything is clear and distinct; there is
none of that raw mistiness which in summer clogs the distant prospect, nor
any of that dancing vapour which a mid-day sun exhales from the heated
earth. We can almost count the leaves of the trees, and as the slanting
sun-beam thwarts the level of the meadow, high-taper and fox-glove rise
conspicuously into view. It is in October that a boundless prospect is
enjoyed to the full, and all that the horizon embraces is distinctly laid
before us. Oft do I recollect from Le Hocquette, watching with intense
interest the fiery setting of the evening sun, which, as it dipped the
horizon sent up rich spires of rays, and as it were in a flood of heavenly
light gilding it with an eternal glory, while the heavy gloom of Noirmont
point was distinct even to a mushroom on the outline, all contributing to
render the scene gorgeous in the extreme.
[Illustration]
Connected with this valley, and intersected with a variety of hill and
dale, is Woodlands, perhaps the most beautiful estate in the island. The
building is somewhat irregular, and unfortunately situated in the lowland
that causes dampness, and enforces the idea of gloom. This, however, is
amply compensated in the diversity of the scenery, which comprehends a
tasteful display of wood, garden, and upland; altogether forming a spot of
true monastic seclusion, which the visitor can scarce fail to identify. The
intersectional valleys are so screened from the winds, that the magnolia
grandiflora is a mere ornamental shrub in the adjoining woods, and attains
the extraordinary height of forty feet, and blossoms every year. A species
of syringa, from Constantinople, with long pendant flowers, and the spice
plant, with many others equally rare, seem to invigorate as though in their
native soil. It is here the excellent seedling apple called "la Pomme
Susanne," or Mollet Pippin was raised, named from a former proprietor, who
left an orchard rich with a variety of sorts.
[Illustration]
On this estate, in a sequestered little nook, half hid by the waving
umbrage of the beech, is the Domaillerie cottage, remarkable as the only
place where the Guernsey Lily grows wild, the leaves of which, in the month
of September may be seen sprinkled as if with original gold dust, and at
times there are from seven to nine bells on each stalk. This cottage is
also the subject of a legend which represents it as once being inhabited by
an extraordinary old woman, of a tall stooping figure and fierce black
eyes. Until of late years it has been the cause of some superstitious
speculation among the neighbouring peasantry, and a large stone, hid under
piles of deep green foliage, still marks the spot where she expired. At
present, the cottage is converted into a lumber-house, and a gothic window
in the gable, gives it the appearance of an old catholic chapel.
At Lassy is a comfortable little inn, kept by one Alexander, who has got
himself famous for a peculiar method in making pan-cakes, whereby he can
almost suit the palate of every one. Here the stranger has an opportunity
of a return by the omnibus, which on certain days passes this way.
At the point of Le Crocq, near Richmond, is a vertical stone, or fichade,
which is evidently of some antiquity. In the neighbourhood are fragments of
pottery, and some years ago stone instruments were picked up, together with
a gold coin, which was recently found. On a promontory at Le Rée, near the
isle of Lihou, is a cromlech, which has not received such damages, from the
attrition of Time, as the rest. It is on the side of the road which leads
to the above little isle, and at present consists of two large cap-stones,
which measure about twenty feet across. They cover a considerable chamber,
and are supported by a number of props. The entrance is at the East end,
and the interior is dark and gloomy; the interstices being filled or
blocked up with stones and other rubbish. Other cromlechs are pointed out
as being in the neighbourhood, but there is no dependance on them, and the
one above mentioned is said to be the far-famed "Creux des Fées," about
half a mile from which is a small, but interesting one, consisting of three
or four stones. Beneath it were found burnt ashes and bones, as also
portions of urns and coarse pottery. It may be found on the top of the hill
Catioroc, and is called by the peasantry "Le Trepied." These latter
cromlechs are the property of Mr Bonamy Maingay, and are well worthy of
notice.
The little isle of Lihou does not possess any Celtic remains, and this has
been attributed to its early occupation by the monks, and the erection of a
chapel and priory, which were built about the tenth or eleventh century, or
some time before the consecration of the Valle church. The site of the
chapel presents a heap of walls in ruins, and until lately were shrouded in
gloomy night-shade and rank fox-glove, whose tendrils have for years
supported the drooping arch, the fallen urn, and mouldering monument; and,
as it were in mockery of the dead, clasping the falling column. Remnants of
the chapel still remain, and excavations which have heretofore been made,
have brought to light many curious details. It consisted of a chancel and a
nave, with a square tower on its North-East side. It was vaulted with
stone, and the North wall of the nave with a few feet of the roof is still
standing. The above excavations were commenced in the chancel, the walls of
which were just visible above the turf. It contained the ribs of the roof
and portions of the columns and windows, the former of which were of Caen
stone. On sinking to a depth of four feet a pavement of small green and red
Norman tiles was discovered, and from observations made in different parts
of the chapel, it would appear the whole had been thus paved. Under this
pavement a few silver monastic coins and pennies of Edward I. were found. A
range of buildings may be traced at the lower part of the chapel,
overlooking the sea, and others have disappeared from the encroachment of
the waves at spring-tides. In a Southern bank is a drain, apparently
leading to the kitchen, in which were found large quantities of fish-bones,
scales, and other matter. To the East is a walled enclosure, which is said
to be the "garden"; at a short distance from this is a round-house or
dovecot, where the monks reared their pigeons, and in an adjoining spot is
a piece of ground which still goes by the name of the "Cimetière." At one
end of the chancel are some steps which appear to be the chief entrance,
and the rugged causeway leading from the island to the opposite shore is
supposed to have been made by the monks. In the rocks on the South side are
two natural baths, supposed to have been hollowed by the attrition of the
waters and pebbles, as the action of the waves is remarkably strong here.
They are supposed to have been used by the monks during the existence of
the priory. The island is very much exposed and scarcely anything besides
tufted herbage will grow there; nevertheless there is a good house,
containing useful apartments and a fine billiard room and table.
Leaving Lihou on the other side of Rocquaine bay is a creek, on which were
once some ruins.
Towards the sea the botanist will find abundance of eryngo or sea-holly,
which is a truly marine plant and exceedingly nutritious, the young tops
being eaten as asparagus; also fine specimens of samphire, which is far
superior to that of Grande Rocque and the neighbourhood. Here, and in the
vicinity of Lihou are the chief places for the gathering of vraic, which
from the 17th of July to the 31st of August is one general scene of
activity, and is well worthy the attention of the stranger, as it is a
peculiar feature in the island character.
In this bustling affair he will observe bands of country people, men,
women, and children, trooping towards the rocks in one uniform spirit of
hilarity and glee, of whom some are not unfrequently crowned with flowers
and other fantastical head-dresses. On the receding of the tide they
disperse themselves among the rocks, the strongest, be it on horse-back or
on foot, striving to attain the richest point. When the vraic is abundant
they gather it with a kind of sickle or reaping hook, throwing it in heaps
on a certain rock marked by a number of pebbles or chalking the name. Where
carts are not accessible they bear it at full speed on horse-back, and some
few on their shoulders. On the approach of the tide or end of their labour,
the lads lead the lasses to bathe, which is a fund of amusement to those
unaccustomed to the sight, for what with the merriment of the men and the
shrieks of the timid girls, all is confusion and uproar. However this soon
subsides as the evening mellow approaches, as there is no small expectation
of something that exceeds all, inasmuch as it is usual to have an
entertainment on the like scale. Such being the case, the country inns
throw up a kind of canopy, which is tastefully decorated with flowers and
surmounted with fern; the whole of the fabric being propped up with posts.
A variety of cheer takes place, which is closed by an evening dance,
generally undertaken by the young _vraicquers_. This highly characteristic
native scenery is equally prevalent at the bays of Le Rée, La Parelle and
the Vazon.
The land in this district is liberally supplied with vraic, which in
connexion with a good active soil is capable of producing the best crops,
especially potatoes, which in some instances are six Guernsey bushels to
the perch, or at the rate of about twenty tons to the English acre. The
farms are generally from thirty to forty vergées, and if there is a
predominance of meadow land, they usually manure two vergées, which is
about one fifteenth. In other districts they manure one in four, and
disperse at least four loads to the vergée. The medical herbs are in usual
character with those of Torteval and other upland parishes, wherefore the
botanist will fall in with tolerable specimens of potentilla tormentilla,
which according to the dryness of the soil, varies in its virtues as an
astringent.
[Illustration]
Returning to town, on the left, are the ruins of an old Catholic chapel
called St Appoline, which at present is converted into a furze-house and
cow stable, consequently the interior remains of its mural antiquity are
fast vanishing away. In the adjoining house may be seen the clapper of the
bell, portions of a sun-dial, and an ornamented stone cross which it is
said once stood on the summit of the East gable. At the back of the
proprietor's house is an old building, in the walls of which are some
arched windows and a fire place, that is conjectured to have formed the
kitchen. The neighbourhood has a monastic seclusion, which may render it
probable as being the place of old monkish hospitality. On the inside of
the vaulted roof are some curious figures in fresco, one of which evidently
represents the Virgin Mary. Those on the lower parts are entirely
demolished from the injury done to the plaster by the furze and other
lumber. On the South side is a window forming an opening of forty-eight by
thirteen inches, being divided into two parts by a horizontal stone or
transome. The stones are of considerable dimensions, and are occasionally
laid horizontally.
Keeping the road to town one will fall in with the Câtel church, which has
undergone many alterations and repairs. It is built on the site of an
ancient fort called the "Castel du Grand Sarazin," and the North wall of
the chancel and transept are still remaining portions of the old castle
walls, the masonry of which is exceedingly rude, the large and small stones
being thrown together confusedly and without order. Of late years some
incongruous and rude fresco figures have been discovered on a wall of the
North transept. In the church-yard is the tomb of the late Lord De
Saumarez, a native of the island, much beloved and esteemed. The tomb is
guarded by an iron railing and is exceedingly plain, at once affording a
striking instance of the un-ostentatious disposition of the late Lord.
[Illustration]
Someways to the right is Pouchez, the charming estate of Mr Moullin,
diversified with rich meadows, hill and dale, and discretional openings
amid a gay profusion of deep green foliage, ivy-mantled stumps and pollard
oaks; which together with a few old mossy walls, and rural buildings, full
well claims the attention of the tourist.
The road from hence to the Rohais, from its altitude, affords a most
expansive view over the vale country beneath, especially from the fir
clump. Should the evening be on the mellow wane, he may indulge himself
with a seat, and with the combined feelings of the painter and the poet
contemplate on the placidity of the distant landscape. Unfurled like a map
before him lay rocks, trees, pools, cottages and the distant horizon,
glittering like liquid silver under the expiring glory of the setting sun.
Here he will catch a glimpse of cottages half hid under piles of deep green
foliage, which his fancy may ingeniously colour into a hamlet of peace and
contentment;--there a handsome villa and a sweep of inland water gleaming
in the evening red, with here and there a cottage curling its smoke amid
the calm serenity of the scene, or a wind-mill on a distant knoll flagging
in the evening breeze.
On the Rohais road the houses have a respectable appearance, and the land
apparently under a higher state of cultivation than he has hitherto seen.
Being elevated and laying open to the North, the gardens are sometimes
severely touched by the winds, and though most of them are protected by
high walls, it nevertheless is not a sure preventive. The houses in general
have an English cut, either being centered in beautiful green daisy fields,
or hid in high shrubberies and trees. The air, from the upland situation of
the neighbourhood, is considered remarkably pure and wholesome, being a
close representation to that of Torteval, which undoubtedly is the
healthiest parish in the island.
[Illustration]
SECOND DAY's EXCURSION.
[Illustration]
By way of making a circuit of the island, the stranger will select the road
to Fort George, which has been already noticed. A little beyond is Fermain
bay, delightfully environed with rocks, trees and furze hills, which latter
are romantically intersected with winding path-ways, evidently not to be
trod by the timid pedestrian, as they run round steep declivities of
blooming furze blossom, and at times verge on precipices. At low watermark
the little bay presents a fine sandy bottom, consequently is an occasional
resort for sea bathing; towards the shore the pebbles are large, and thrown
in such quantities and with such violence as to be worn completely round by
the attrition of the confined waves. On a height to the left are two land
marks, placed for the purpose of warning mariners coming down the Great
Russel, the situation of the Lower Heads, a dangerous reef of rocks, laying
about mid-way between this and Sark. From this point Southwards the line of
coast is one continued scene of rocky steeps, ravines, and broken
declivities more or less mantled with golden furze bloom, at times belted
with ivy, and fringed with wild flowers. Indeed the whole connected
together is one of singular beauty and well merits the attention of the
artist. The little bay is defended by a martello tower and battery.
To the right is Bonair, the residence of our late lamented Baillif or
head magistrate, Daniel De Lisle Brock, Esq., which is prettily situated
on an upland, sloping towards the sea, and belted with luxuriant timber.
A little further on, on the opposite side is the manor house of
Saumarez, belonging to John Thomas De Saumarez, Esq., Comptroller or
Solicitor-General. With the exception of a few modern additions and
innovations, the building has a considerable appearance of antiquity.
According to an inquest about five centuries since, or in the reign of
Edward III., this house is mentioned as being in the possession of the
Saumarez family from time immemorial. About that time the principal
fortress of the island was Jerbourg, when the office of Castellan was
granted to the lord of this manor, a situation of no small trust; at
present the title is profitless.
The greater part of St Martin's church is of the early English style, but
the windows of modern formation. The porch affords fine specimens of the
ancient chisel, and is considered the handsomest in the island. The corner
buttresses are cut from the hard granite, and the massive sculpture work is
considered exceedingly good. The dedication was attended with the splendour
of the Catholic church in which the feudal pomp of the baronial times was
eminently conspicuous. It took place about the year 1199, and there were
present the Governors of Rennes, Honfleur and Caen, Totness and
Southampton, and eighty-four lords displayed their banners.
Some ways to the right, and near St Andrew's church, is "la Croix au
Baillif," or Baillif's Cross, which took its name from the following
circumstance, that happened in the earlier part of the thirteenth century.
Gaultier De La Salle, the then Baillif of the island, lived about half a
mile hence, at a place called "la Ville au Roi," which may still be seen
with its sculptured granite door-way and stone spiral staircase. The
adjoining houses are only tenanted by poor people, and the walls of the old
mansion are still supported by the clasping embrace of ivy, and its roof
screened by the umbrage and waving verdure of some tall neglected trees.
Gaultier De La Salle had a poor neighbour named Massey, who chiefly
depended for support on the produce of a small adjoining patch of ground
connected with the Baillif's estate, and to which was attached a right of
passage to a well belonging to La Salle. This privilege was a great
annoyance to the Baillif, wherefore he tried various means to deprive him
of it; but being unsuccessfull in them all, he at length devised a scheme
for taking away his life. Accordingly, La Salle hid two of his own silver
cups, and expressing strong suspicion of his neighbour, poor Massey was
instantly taken up and brought to trial on circumstantial evidence.
Now, as theft, to a certain degree, in those days, was a capital offence,
and the accuser a person of high authority, and backed by the most corrupt
witnesses, the case was soon brought to proof, and Massey found "guilty."
Wherefore the judges, on their last deliberation came forth with sentence
of death on their lips. There was a pause--a dead silence in the Court; and
the unfortunate prisoner, after vainly asserting his innocence, now awaited
his condemnation hopelessly; when suddenly a noise was heard, the trampling
of many feet, and a man rushed breathless into the Court, holding up the
silver cups, and exclaiming, "they are found." He informed the judges that
having been employed that morning in removing some sheaves of corn
belonging to the Baillif into the barn, he and his fellow labourers had
found the cups in the middle of the rick. Hardly had he said this, than De
La Salle passionately exclaimed: "Fool! did I not tell thee _not to_ touch
_that_ rick; I knew--" He stopped in confusion; but his words were marked.
Every eye was turned on the guilty Baillif, and the Court resolved that the
base accuser should suffer the "lex talionis a criminê ejus," or
retaliation on account of his crime. Massey was instantly set at liberty;
and, after a short trial, Gaultier De La Salle was sentenced to death. On
his way to execution, he stopped at this spot, and partook of the
sacrament; in remembrance of which a cross was erected, called the
"Baillif's Cross." The spot is now only marked by a stone in the pathway,
with a cross cut in it. The place where Massey lived is called "le Courtil
Massey," or Massey's Field, to this day. The Baillif's estate being
forfeited to the Crown, has ever since been called "la Ville au Roi," or
the King's Town.
[Illustration]
The Doyle column stands on the high land of Jerbourg, and was erected by
the States of the island in the year 1820. The ground on which it is built
is elevated from the sea 350 feet, and the column itself 101 from the
foundation, forming a total of 451 feet. The gallery is defended by an iron
balustrade, is fourteen feet square, will contain from thirty to forty
persons, and is ascended by cocklestairs guarded by railings. The entrance
is on the East side, and the door of the gallery faces the South-East. It
is built of Guernsey granite with an oak frame placed in the wall at every
ten feet, and may be seen ten leagues distance at sea from the West and
Southern direction, being considered by mariners of the greatest
importance. It was raised to commemorate with grateful remembrance the many
public services rendered the island by the late General Sir John Doyle,
whilst Lieutenant-Governor, from the year 1803 to 1817. From the top may be
caught a most extended view of earth, sky, and water. At one's feet lay
Sark, Herm and Jethou; and Jersey, France and Alderney, so plain as almost
to be able to distinguish the outline of form, such as indentations,
creeks, coves, and inlets of projecting rocks and crags, more or less
whitened with the moss of age and antiquity. Inland, fields waving with
corn and verdure, and if in his poetic fancy the tourist cannot conjure up
something of a sylvan scene, a rolling river or a sweep of inland water, is
his own fault. The key of the Monument is delivered to the public gratis,
and is kept at an adjoining public house, on whose sign are the words
"Doyle--pub. grat."
On the small promontory of Jerbourg was formerly a castle, the keeper or
castellan of which was of the De Saumarez family, unto whom the manor has
for several centuries belonged. At present not so much as the walls are
remaining. From several trenches and ditches, which are still remaining, it
is conjectured there was once a Roman encampment here, and this is not at
all improbable as tradition gives us the same. Jerbourg barracks are
situate on an adjoining spot and are sufficiently capacious for about three
hundred troops.
[Illustration]
Taking the road to Petit-Bo bay, about mid-way, the artist will catch a
lively picture, such as bold and majestic crags in the front;--a streak of
the ocean, the deep ravine beneath, with a foaming little waterfall,
rivulet and mill, beautified with a cove of silver sand, all tending to
elevate the idea, and reduce into the mind a fit assemblage for the finest
picture, such as "beauty in the lap of horror." An ill-formed paper-mill
and an artificial mud pond may be said to overthrow the quietude and
seclusion of the spot. However, it is so much like that where Napoleon
rests in St Helena, only in a lesser form, that a correspondent of the
local press, who had evidently visited the Emperor's tomb, wrote thus:
"When you descend the road from the Forest church, keep to your right and
proceed directly on to the brow of the cliff overlooking the small battery.
A ravine there presents itself. If you will be kind enough next to look
towards the cliff immediately opposite, you will observe a pretty lofty
eminence. On that height, in imagination, I placed Madame Montholon's
house, which you must remember is described by many travellers as looking
down upon the Emperor's tomb. About an hundred feet below this, picture to
your imagination a beautiful green sward, sloping in graceful declivity
down the valley. Next on the left hand, place a small cottage, the
residence of the old sentinel at St Helena, and at the foot of his little
garden, a sentry box, where a record is kept for the entry of visitors'
names; beside this, bursting out from a crevice in the rock, you may fancy
the celebrated spring, out of which the departed warrior was accustomed to
drink. The water is the purest and most refreshing to be found in the
island. Carry your eye a little further down, and the sacred tomb is seen
surrounded by an iron railing. A large willow tree waves its graceful
foliage over this romantic spot. A plain stone, with the awful word
"Napoleon," rests on the grave. Immediately beneath the tomb, a natural bed
of scarlet geraniums, intermingled with myrtles and evergreens, extend to
the rocks beneath, over whose rugged heads the sea breaks, thus terminating
one of the most picturesque and romantic scenes to be found on the
terrestrial globe."
Continuing the road, the country wears a diversity of scenery, being
occasionally interrupted by hills and abrupt risings towards the sea. In
dells screened from the roughness of the winds, and where there is a good
aperture for the sun, gardens do well; and cottage vines[A] are equally as
vigorous as in Jersey, and exotics require little or no protection besides
that of a slight covering. The broad and narrow leaved double-flowering
myrtle flourishes in the open air, and the orange with only the aid of a
wall perfects its fruit. The Guernsey fig[B] growing as a standard of great
strength, with a variety of other outlandish plants and shrubs, bespeak a
situation favorable both for flowers and fruits. In the neighbourhood,
amongst a variety of plants, the botanist will find allium ampeloprasum, or
vine leek, which, according to Mr B. Saunders,[C] a member of the Botanic
Society, is also found wild on a nearly inaccessible cliff beyond the
Artillery Barracks.
[A] The small cluster grape seems to be the hardiest, and indeed the
only one that thrives in England to any advantage, for some years
ago I have:--"Cold frosty morn,--ice thick,--pump frozen;--went to
spend a few days with my relation the Rev. Thomas Bellamy, of
Chetnole, in Dorsetshire. After generously partaking of wine, with
other clergymen, before a blazing log-wood fire, I was informed
that the great vine that entered the room where we were sitting,
and which covered the inside of a spacious bow-window, had a few
years since produced a hogshead of wine. Certainly it is the
largest and most spacious vine I have ever seen, as it overruns the
whole of the back building, and occupies a space of not less than
fifteen yards!"--_Mem. Jan. 19, 1829._
[B] Among some old papers pertaining to my "Notitiæ," I find, the
fig-tree thrives well as an espalier even as far North as
Yorkshire, but the fruit exceedingly small, green, and unripe. At
Ampleforth College, in that county, an entertainment was given by
the Right Hon. Lord Clifford, and if my memory serves me right,
among other things in the bill of fare, were twenty-nine geese,
fifty plates of nuts, and three do. of dough figs. The former were
quickly dispatched, but of the latter scarce a dozen were taken,
and even those but partly eaten, notwithstanding covers were laid
for upwards of a hundred.--_December, 1823._
[C] See a communication in THE CHANNEL ISLES HORTICULTURAL CHRONICLE,
May 2, 1842.
The sea coast in this district is exceedingly craggy and at a place called
the "Gouffre," which in summer is often the resort of pic-nic parties, the
rocks are thrown in the most haggard yet beautiful state of wild confusion,
and the foaming of the sea at an immense depth below, like the boiling of a
cauldron, fully demonstrates the disturbed state of the elements. The
seeker of solitude and the admirer of rude nature can almost enjoy
themselves to repletion, as perhaps this place cannot be represented save
in some of the wilds of America or the deep ravines of Merionethshire, at
all events solitude can never be more faithfully portrayed.
A little further on towards Petit-Bo is a sequestered little fishing nook,
called "La Moye," consisting of one or two fisherman's huts deeply seated
in a ravine replete with furze, grig and wild flowers. At the bottom is a
cave formed by the confused state of the rocks, which acts as a harbour or
anchorage for a few fishing boats, the which, if the stranger be fond of
the water, he can hire for a trifle. The fish here as well as in Petit-Bo
bay are rock-fish, whitings, sword-fish, &c.
A little to the Westward of the Gouffre is a place called the "Bigard,"
famous for its rocks, pinnacled masses and confused precipices, which
confining the sea within its narrow chasms, causes it to fret and roar
beyond every thing grand, at once laying bare to the observer from the
heights and crags above, one continued and fearful action of scenery.
The country about the Forest church consist of a stiff but active soil, and
in many parts of a rich loam. Sylvan beauty ornaments the country
occasionally, and furze hedges more or less disappear for those of thorn
and other bushes. Parsnip crops in this quarter are about 17,600 lbs. per
vergée, provided they are grown in a putrid, dry sandy soil, of which there
is many a field. The _Coquaine_ parsnip thrives best in the deep sandy loam
of the Valle, where it sometimes attains the extraordinary length of four
feet, and in circumference generally from eight to twelve inches. The
leaves of this variety grow to a considerable height, and proceed from the
whole crown of the root. The _Lisbonaise_ gains in weight and substance
what the other does in length, consequently does not require the depth of
soil. The leaves of this species are small and short, and only break from
the centre in which there is a hollow cup, and the root tapers away in
abrupt ringlets.
As the stranger can scarce fail to be awakened at the bustle attendant on
the preparation of the ground for this seed, together with the holiday-like
supper at the end, it will not be amiss to take a brief survey of the
operations. As the small farms into which Guernsey is divided will not
allow every individual farmer to keep sufficient cattle for this work, it
is performed by a combination of neighbours, who are repaid by the like
joint-stock assistance, in which there is a mutual understanding as to the
loan of ploughs and other instruments. Towards the latter end of February
the ground is prepared by means of ploughs; a small one precedes, and opens
the furrow to the depth of four inches, and a large one follows, with four
or six oxen and as many horses, that deepens the furrow to twelve or
fourteen inches;--this plough is called "la grande charrue." As soon as the
clods are capable of being broken, the harrowing commences, which is
repeated till the soil is pulverised and reduced nearly to a state of
garden mould. The seed is then broad-cast over the ground, but on a day
when the wind is just sufficient to ensure an even dispersion; after which
it is covered with the harrow. The quantity sown to the vergée is half a
denerel or two quarts.
[Illustration]
In this and St Martin's parish there has been lately introduced a very
excellent sort of pig, which in breed is supposed to be an admixture
between the English and Chinese kinds. Until lately a good specimen was to
be seen at a public-house kept by ---- Hopkins, whose mode of feeding is
first with raw parsnips, then with boiled, and towards the end of the
fattening a little barley meal. By this kind of feeding the quantity of
pork is much encreased, but the quality is impaired, as the fat becomes
flabby. To provide against this he adds an extra quantum of saltpetre in
the curing, which answers tolerably well. However, be it as it may, they
are much more profitable than the foreign long-legged ones, so common in
the Valle and other districts. Hogs of this kind, twenty months old, when
killed at Christmas, have weighed from 400 to 420 lbs.
[Illustration]
As the stranger may not have hitherto had a proper opportunity of observing
the manner of Guernsey churning, it may not be unacceptable to give him an
idea. In England, either the barrel churn or the patent vertical ones are
generally used, whereas here the old fashioned upright one has maintained
its ground through all time and change, which if not deemed a cleanly way
is certainly an expeditious one. The milk, which is churned with the cream,
is commonly put in the churn over night, and that generally on the third
day. When it is curdled it is churned, the acidity of the milk quickening
the butter, which is not to be excelled in any part of the world.
On the left is a Wesleyan chapel, and a little beyond is the Forest church,
which has an ugly appearance, from the East and West sides of the tower
being longer than the other two. It has been so patched and altered by
modern art, that little or nothing of the original structure remains, and
the ornamental portions of a South window, have long since been destroyed.
The hedges in the vicinity are mostly holly and thorn, and the latter,
which is generally shrouded with ivy, compensates in a great measure for
the absence of timber. On the more exposed parts, the hedges are furze, the
usual fence-fashion of the island, which, in spring, beautifies and
perfumes the country. The naturalist will observe the entire absence of
those insects peculiar to the lowland parishes; as also the appearance of
the finch, yellow-hammer, and other alpine birds.
Close to the "Bourg," or village of the Forest, opposite a place called "le
Chêne," is a road leading through an inland valley of surprising beauty,
terminating at the Vauxbellets, the elegant mansion of Mr Frederick
Mansell. An adjoining lane leads to the Hurel, a cluster of poor, dirty
looking huts, evidently inhabited by people of the same order. They have
the character of being a half gipsy, half beggar race, bearing the name of
Pipet, and as their features are foreign to the Guernsey peasantry, none
will intermarry or have any thing to do with them. The country people look
upon them with an evil eye, for when they are permitted to circumambulate
the neighbourhood for their "irvières," or New Year's gift, no one likes to
send them away empty-handed, lest peradventure evil befall them, their
cattle, or their children.
The country between the Forest and Torteval church is but thinly supplied
with wood, and notwithstanding the orchard scenery is much less than
elsewhere, the fruit is considered of a sharper and better flavour. The hay
is sweet and good, and yields upon an average about one ton per vergée. The
gardens, from being too much exposed, produce but little fruit, and in
vegetables but ill accord with those of the Câtel and some other of the
parishes. In some positions, the celebrated Chaumontel pear dwindles to
nothing; the fruit being very little larger than a walnut. The same may be
applied to the purple and green fig, which, as a standard, readily attains
perfection in other districts, but here, unless screened by a wall, comes
to nothing. Melons will not ripen without the aid of glass, and grapes
present but a sorry appearance with those of the vale parts.
As the "sarcleur" is as freely used here as elsewhere, the mode of using it
may not be unworthy the attention of the stranger. The farmer, he will
observe, has one knee on the ground, when he attacks the weeds by pushing
forward the edge of the sarcleur under their roots, turning them over, and
with the flat side occasionally striking them, in order to disengage the
adhereing mould. From this contracted attitude, the labourer is enabled to
make greater progress than might be supposed. Flax was once grown here, in
common with many other parts of the island; but as the quality was inferior
to that imported from the Northern parts of Europe, it was consequently
stopped; notwithstanding, some thousand pounds in weight, have been
exported to Bridport, Lime, and Poole.
[Illustration: IMPLEMENTS OF HUSBANDRY.
1. Dock Spade. 2. Fork Dock Weeder. 3. Hand Meadow Weeder. 4. Le Sarcleur.
5. La Fourchette du Jardin.]
On the South side of this parish is the "Creux Mahie," or "Malière," which
is an immense cavern, upwards of 200 feet in length, and 40 or 50 in width,
and from 20 to 60 in height, having at times a curious vaulted roof, and a
rough and uneven bottom. As the attrition of the water on this coast is
very violent, it is supposed to have been formed by the waves, in common
with other encroachments of the sea. On making an investigation, the
visitor had better explore it by means of a bundle of furze, which being
divided into several fires, and lit at distinct distances, will expose to
him the whole mystification of the interior. He had also better apply to
some of the neighbouring cottages for a guide, as the locality is intricate
and difficult to make out.
Torteval church is a plain but neat building, and at once strikes the
stranger as being remarkable for its tower and spire. From the top is an
extensive view of the surrounding country.
To the artist, Torteval furnishes an highly picturesque district, and there
seems, as it were, only one thing wanting, that the high and lofty crags,
and abrupt rocks overlooking the sea were crowned with some "ivy-mantled
tower," ruins or fragments of old castles. With this exception, it is in
such scenes like this that the artist ought to roam; for here he can catch
numerous ravines, projecting head-lands, and pinnacled masses, which are
occasionally relieved by a few straggling sheep and distant trees. The
abrupt hills break into numerous slopes and glens, leading in a Northerly
direction; from hence arise those tortuous valleys which produce such
diversified and rural scenery pictured in the centre of the island. The
rocks furnish an abundant compound of gneiss, of which an interesting
series may be discovered at "Les Thielles." Here alternate lines of dark
strata may be seen traversing cliffs of reddish gneiss, which in the bay of
"Bon Repos," are dashed into the most wanton state of confusion, their
softer portions being worn away by the action of the pent up waves, which
gush through the caverns of this fragment-like coast. In rough weather, and
when the sea becomes confined within these narrow limits, the roar of the
water and the lashing of the waves are such as to present one turbulent and
fearful commotion, threatening instant and total destruction to any
unfortunate vessel which should be driven on this dangerous coast.
In certain places, where proper shelter is granted, the soil of this parish
is highly productive, and when manured at the rate of ten load of vraic per
vergée, will occasionally produce upwards of 50 bushels of potatoes, though
the general average is from 30 to 40 per vergée. Such soil lets for about
2l. 10s. per vergée. The hay is famed for its sweetness, and an English
acre will throw off about three tons and a half; which, though by no means
equal in quantity to that of the Valle, nevertheless gains the point in
quality. Parsnips may be said to be small, and much inferior in size to
those elsewhere, as the indurated state of the soil will not admit of a
proper expansion of the root. These crops are about fifteen tons per acre,
whereas at St Saviour's and the Valle they are from twenty to twenty two
tons per acre; nevertheless they are of a good quality, and hogs not only
look healthy, but yield a preferable pork. In fattening of pigs, parsnips
have ever been found most profitable, as it is a root yielding a much
greater portion of saccharine, mucilaginous and nutritious matter than
either the potatoe, beet, turnip, or perhaps any other plant, and its
general use throughout the island fully demonstrates the same. The butter
is rather pale, but the quality is exceedingly good.
In the neighbourhood, the naturalist will find much to amuse him, such as
the appearance of the yellow-hammer on the hedges, farms, corn-ricks, and
elsewhere. After the same order he may place the cross-bill, ring-ouzel,
missel-thrush, starling, mountain finch, hooded crow, and a few others. The
great variety of rocks, cliffs, and creeks, also afford an excellent field
for observation; and the insects and birds that give a decided preference
to the altitude of this parish, in contrast with that of the Valle, furnish
space for extensive research. The botanist will notice quantities of
potentilla tormentilla, which is said to impart a fine flavour to the
mutton of sheep feeding on it; and this is by no means improbable, as
English agriculturists always regard it as a lucky event when their
sheepwalks are well bestrewed with this invaluable plant; insomuch that it
is not only found to heighten the quality of the mutton, but to cure the
sheep of that dreadful disease the dry-rot. Some parts are so exposed to
the sea and rough winds, that many of the orchards suffer severely from
blight and the green canker, and the trees generally are so checked in
their growth from moss gathering, that little if any fruit at certain
seasons arrive to perfection. To provide against this, some few have got
into the practice of scraping them, and it has been observed they use a
certain instrument with considerable advantage, of which the present
engraving will convey a tolerable idea.
[Illustration]
St Peter's church has a much more ancient appearance than any other in the
island, and the remains of antiquity, such as the chisel work about the
windows, and other ornamental parts are almost perfect. The tracery of a
rose window over the door of the North aisle, is gone, and perhaps it is
difficult to decide what it meant. The church-yard is neat, and the
tombstones in a much better condition than are usually met with.
Following the road, on the left hand side, is the menhir, which is a large
columnar stone, in an erect attitude, and standing in a field appertaining
to the estate of the Paysans. It can scarce be omitted, as it is said to
attract the attention of every passer-by from its imposing station; and
although the natives in the neighbourhood are entirely ignorant of its
original intent and use, nevertheless hold it in a kind of veneration. It
stands about eleven feet from the surface of the ground, where no doubt it
has stood in the same position for some thousands of years. By some, it is
supposed to be an idolatrous pillar: whereas others are of opinion it is a
monumental chronogram, in commemoration of some great chieftain or notable
event. Be it as it may, it certainly puts one in mind of another of these
rude monuments of antiquity, stationed at the foot of the hill near the
remains of the chapel of St Brioc, where is pointed out a stone bearing an
impression of two enormous feet.
On the estate of Mr Thomas Lainé, in the adjoining parish, may be seen the
grave of a chieftain of old, which was discovered in the year 1818, by some
workmen who were planting a tree in the côtil. Whilst digging the hole,
they were stopped by some large stones, which being removed, there appeared
the tomb of the ancient warrior. The grave was walled in, and was six feet
nine inches long. There were no bones, and the present remains are in the
possession of the proprietor of the estate and Mr F. C. Lukis, of Grange
road. They consist of a lance, a piece of ornamental brass, a sabre in a
steel scabbard, and a vase. The lance has a handle which is supposed to be
cedar wood, and the vase was full of blackish composition, conjectured to
be the ashes of some distinguished personage; and was found about thirty
paces from the grave, in a depth of nearly fifteen inches of ground. The
inner part is of the colour of a dried chesnut leaf, and the outside of a
dark brown, whilst the pottery was of the finest clay. Its weight was
upwards of two pounds; height, eight inches, and breadth at the top six
inches. This vase, and the spear, are in the possession of Mr Lukis, and
form no small addition to that gentleman's interesting collection of
antiquities. The following is from a drawing taken some years back.
Unfortunately the flat stones that covered the grave were not sufficiently
closed, wherefore the body from the access of the external air has been
decomposed, thereby only leaving us the above remains.
[Illustration]
Taking the road for town the tourist will fall in with the Câtel church
which has been already noticed. The roads in this district, as well as in
most parts of the island, are remarkably good and may furnish the traveller
with another specimen of insular comfort; for here, if they are not exactly
equal to some of those of England, at least have this advantage, that they
are entirely exempt from tolls, bars, gates, and every other imposition,
whereby his carriage or horse may be stopped at every stone's throw. The
roads are generally seventeen feet broad, and the raised foot-way, that
always forms the one side, from three to four; thereby allowing two
vehicles to run abreast without fear of encroachment on the foot-paths. The
by-lanes which he may have frequently entered, afford a tolerable specimen
of what the old roads were, previously to the spirited undertaking of Sir
John Doyle in 1810. Similar to the roads, they have a narrow rough
causeway, but in general much higher, and in their present condition,
afford many a rural retreat for the green-lane botanist, as they are more
or less screened from the summer's heat by umbrageous trees. In the sylvan
districts, they are not unfrequently graced with the waving verdure of the
beech, and on their mossy banks put forth a profusion of herbs, primroses,
and other wild flowers, forming a cool and pleasant retreat for solitude,
reading, and botany.
With these, or the like reflections, the stranger may reach town, where
peradventure, should his walk be towards the latter end of autumn, the
approaching charms of winter yet await him.--Closed shutters, a blazing
fire, slippers, and an easy chair; and, whether it be fancy or not, I
cannot tell, but it strikes me forcibly, that a _smoking goose_ and a
bottle of old port, always seem more dainty when viewed beneath the
sparkling rays of four candles, than the most superb banquet that ever
glittered beneath the all-glorious beams of the brightest sun that ever
shone out of an Eastern sky.
[Illustration]