In these times the high Alps were filled with Saracen brigands and

other heathen freebooters, who celebrated in the mountain fastnesses

their monstrous rites. In the mountains above Aosta the god Pen had

long been worshiped; the word pen in Celtic meaning the highest.

Later, Julius Caesar conquered these wild tribes, and imposed upon them

the religion of the Roman Empire. A statue of Jupiter ("_Jove optimo

maximo_") was set up in the mountain in the place of the idol Pen.

Afterwards, by way of compromise, the Romans permitted the two to

become one, and the people worshiped Jovis Pennius (Jupiter Pen), the

great god of the highest mountains. A statue of Jupiter Pen was set up

by the side of the lake in the great pass of the mountain; and from

Jupiter Pen these mountains took the name of Pennine Alps, which they

bear to this day. The pass itself was called Mons Jovis, the Mountain

of Jove, and this, in due time, became shortened to Mont Joux. Through

this pass of Mont Joux the armies of every nation have marched, the

heroes of every age, from Saint Peter, who, the legend says, came over

in the year 57, down to Napoléon, who passed nearly eighteen centuries

later, on a much less worthy errand. The Hotel "Déjeuner de Napoléon,"

in the little village of "Bourg Saint Pièrre," recalls in its name the

story of both these visits.

In the earliest days a refuge hut was built by the side of the statue

of Jupiter Pen. In the early pilgrimages to Rome this became a place

of some importance. Later on, marauding armies of Goths, Saracens, and

Hungarians, successively passing through, destroyed this refuge. In

the days of Bernard the pass was filled with a horde of brigands,

French, Italians, Saracens, and Jews, who had cast aside all religious

faith of their fathers, and had re-established the worship of the demon

in the temple of Jupiter Pen.

The old manuscripts tell us that in the middle of the tenth century the

demons were in full sway on these mountains; that through the mouth of

the statue of Jupiter the worst of lies and blasphemies were spoken to

those who came to consult it. These worshipers of strange old gods

lived by plunder, and exacted toll of all who came through the pass.

The same conditions existed on the Graian Alps to the southward. On

one of these mountain passes, some fifty miles from Mont Joux, there

lived a rich man named Polycarpe. He, too, did homage to Jupiter, and

on the summit of a tall column which he built in the pass he had placed

a splendid diamond, which he called the "Eye of Jove." People came

from great distances to be healed by its magic glance, and the mountain

on which he dwelt was the mountain of the Columna Jovis. This became

changed, in time, to Colonne Joux, the Mountain of the Column of Jove.

And the demons of these two heights, the Mountain of Jove and the

Column of Jove, sent down their baleful call of defiance to the valley

over which Bernard ruled as Archdeacon of Aosta.

It came to pass that a troop of ten French travelers crossed over the

pass of Mont Joux. In the pass they were attacked by marauders, and

one of their number was carried away captive. When they came down to

Aosta, Bernard, the Archdeacon, fearlessly offered to go back with them

to attack the giant of the mountain, to rescue their friend, and to

replace the standard of the cross over the altar of the demon.

That night, so says the old chronicle, Saint Nicholas appeared to him

in the garb of a pilgrim and said: "Bernard, let us attack these

mountains. We shall put the demon to flight. We shall overturn this

statue of Jupiter, which the demons have taken possession of to bring

trouble among Christians. We will destroy it, and we will destroy the

column and its diamond, and in their place we will build two refuges

for the use of the pilgrims who cross the two mountains. Go thou, as

the tenth one in this band; then wilt thou conjure the demons. Thou

shalt bind the statue with a blessed stole, and its ruins will mingle

with the chaos of the mountains. Thus shalt thou destroy the power of

evil to the day of judgment."

And in proof of the thoroughness with which Bernard performed his work,

it is told that a spiritualist who took pleasure in tipping tables came

through the pass in 1857. The monks were incredulous of his powers,

and he wished to convince them by an actual experience. His efforts

were all in vain. The tables, the record tells us, were quiet as the

rocks. The traveler, astonished, said: "This is the first time they

have failed to obey me." And thus, says the record, the pledge of

Saint Nicholas was accomplished. The enemy had never more an entrance

into the mountain.

When Bernard and his followers reached Mont Joux, they found the

mountain filled with fog and storm, but his heart was undaunted.

Passing boldly between the guards of the temple, he flung, so the story

says, his blessed stole over the neck of the statue of Jupiter. It

changed at once into an iron chain, against which the statue, now

become a huge demon-monster, struggled in vain. The good man

overturned it and flung it at his feet. With the same chain he bound

the high priest who guarded the demon. The struggle was short, but

decisive. In a few minutes, so the chronicle says, Bernard had

banished the demon of Mont Joux and his accomplices to eternal snow and

ice to the end of time, and had commanded them to cease forever their

evil doings on the mountain.

An old painting in the Hospice shows this scene in vivid portrait.

Bernard stands erect and fearless, his fine face lit up by celestial

zeal, his bare head surrounded by a halo, a pilgrim's staff in his

right hand, the stole, now become a chain, in his left, while one foot

is on the breast of the demon, which gasps helpless at his feet. The

demon has the body of a man, covered with a wolf's rough, shaggy hair,

his fingers and toes ending in sharp claws, a long tail, rough and

scaly, like the tail of a rat, coiled snake-like above his legs, the

head and ears of a wolf, the horns of a goat, and on his back an

indefinable outgrowth, perhaps the framework of a horrible pair of

wings, its long tongue thrust out from between its bloody teeth. He

was certainly a gruesome creature.

[Illustration: Saint Bernard and the demon.]

And thus it came to pass in the year 970, in the place of the temple of

Jupiter Pen, but at the other end of the lake, and in the very summit

of the pass, was built the Hospice of the Great Saint Bernard. From

that day to this, almost a thousand years, the work of doing good to

men has been humbly and patiently carried on.

Not long afterward, in a similar way, Bernard attacked the Graian Alps,

overthrew the column of Jupiter, crushed its bright diamond to the

finest dust, which he scattered in the winds, and built in its place a

second Hospice, which, with the pass, has borne ever since the name of

the Little Saint Bernard.

Silver and gold, the builders of this Hospice had none. Ever since the

beginning, they have exercised their charities at the expense of those

who cared for the Lord's work. All who pass by are treated alike.

Those who are received into the Hospice can leave much or

little--something or nothing, whatever they please,--to carry the same

same help to others.

In the book of the good Saint Francis de Sales long ago, so the

chronicle says, these words were written:

"There are many degrees in charity. To lend to the poor, this is the

first degree. To give to the poor is a higher degree. Still higher to

give oneself; to devote one's life to the service of the poor.

Hospitality, when necessity is not extreme, is a counsel, and to

receive the stranger is its first degree. But to go out on the roads

to find and help, as Abraham did, this is a grade still higher. Still

higher is to live in dangerous places, to serve, aid, and save the

passers-by; to attend, lodge, succor, and save from danger the

travelers, who else would die in cold and storm. This is the work of

the noble friend of God, who founded the hospitals on the two

mountains, now for this called by his name, Great Saint Bernard, in the

diocese of Sion, and the Little Saint Bernard, in the Tarentaise."

And so the Hospice was built, and in the enthusiastic words of a

chronicle of the times, "Tears and sorrow were banished, peace and joy

have replaced them; abundance has made there her abode; the terrors

have disappeared, and there reigns eternal springtime. Instead of

hell, you will find there paradise." Not quite paradise, perhaps, so

far as the elements are concerned, but a dozen kindly men, a legion of

dogs, big, cheerful, and noisy, a warm fire, a simple meal, and a

God-speed to all men, whatever their race, or creed, or temper.

I need add but a word more of the history of Bernard himself. One day

an old man and his wife came up to visit the Hospice and to pay their

respects to the monk who had founded it. Bernard met them there, and

at once recognized his father and mother. He received them

sympathetically, and they told him the story of their lost son.

Bernard spoke to them tenderly of the work to which God must have

called him. He told them they should rejoice that their child had been

found worthy of his purposes, and after a time they seemed to become

reconciled, and felt that He doeth all things well. Then Bernard told

them who he was, and when after many days they went away from the

Hospice, they left the money to build in each of them a chapel.

Bernard died in the year 1007, at the age of eighty-three. His last

words were these: "O Lord, I give my soul into thy hands." The words,

"The saint is dead," passed on from mouth to mouth throughout these

Alpine regions. The peasants had canonized him already a hundred years

before the sanctity of his work was officially recognized at Rome.

The story of his burial is again marked by miracles. Rich men vied

with each other in making funeral offerings. One gave him a

magnificent stone coffin, but this man had been a usurer. Usury was a

sin abhorred by Saint Bernard, and the people found that no force or

persuasion could place his body within this coffin. So another tomb,

less pretentious, but more worthy, was found. At the end Bernard's

remains were divided among the churches, each of whom claimed him as

its own. To the Hospice fell his ring and his cup, a tooth, and a few

finger-bones, and, most important of all, his name--the "Great Saint

Bernard."

The chronicles give a long list of miracles which since then have been

wrought in his name. These are for the most part wonderful healings,

the stilling of storms, the bringing of rain, the driving away of

grasshoppers. However, men are prone always to look for the miracle in

the things that are of least moment. The life and work of the man was

the real miracle, not the flight of grasshoppers. The miracle of all

time is the power of humanity when it works in harmony with the laws

and purposes of God. Consecrated to God's work, and by the work's own

severity protected through the centuries from corruption and

temptation, the work of the monk of Aosta has outlasted palaces and

thrones. Through the influence of charity, and piety, and truth, the

demon has been driven from these mountains. When the love of man joins

to the love of God, all spirits of evil vanish as mist before the

morning sun.

[1] St. Bernard de Menthon must not be confounded with Bernard de

Clairvaux, born in 1091, the preacher of the Crusades.

THE LAST OF THE PURITANS.[1]

I have a word to say of Thoreau, and of an episode which brought his

character into bold relief, and which has fairly earned for him a place

in American history, as well as in our literature.

I do not wish now to give any account of the life of Thoreau. In the

preface to his volume called "Excursions" you will find a biographical

sketch, written by the loving hand of Mr. Emerson, his neighbor and

friend. Neither shall I enter into any justification of Thoreau's

peculiar mode of life, nor shall I describe the famous cabin in the

pine woods by Walden Pond, already becoming the Mecca of the Order of

Saunterers, whose great prophet was Thoreau. His profession of

land-surveyor was one naturally adopted by him; for to him every hill

and forest was a being, each with its own individuality. This

profession kept him in the fields and woods, with the sky over his head

and the mold under his feet. It paid him the money needed for his

daily wants, and he cared for no more.

He seldom went far away from Concord, and, in a half-playful way, he

used to view everything in the world from a Concord standpoint. All

the grandest trees grew there and all the rarest flowers, and nearly

all the phenomena of nature could be observed at Concord.

"Nothing can be hoped of you," he said, "if this bit of mold under your

feet is not sweeter to you than any other in this world--in any world."

Although one of the most acute of observers, Thoreau was never reckoned

among the scientific men of his time. He was never a member of any

Natural History Society, nor of any Academy of Sciences, bodies which,

in a general way, he held in not altogether unmerited contempt. When

men band together for the study of nature, they first draft a long

constitution, with its attendant by-laws, and then proceed to the

election of officers, and, by and by, the study of nature becomes

subordinate to the maintenance of the organization.

In technical scientific work, Thoreau took little pleasure. It is

often pedantic, often bloodless, and often it is a source of

inspiration only to him by whom the work is done. Animals and plants

were interesting to him, not in their structure and genealogical

affinities, but in their relations to his mind. He loved wild things,

not alone for themselves, but for the tonic effect of their savagery

upon him.

"I wish to speak a word for nature," he said, "for absolute freedom and

wildness, as contrasted with a freedom and culture merely civil, to

regard man as an inhabitant, a part and parcel of nature, rather than

as a member of society. I wish to make an extreme statement; if so, I

may make an emphatic one, for there are enough champions of

civilization. The minister and the school committees, and every one of

you, will take care of that."

To Thoreau's admirers, he is the prophet of the fields and woods, the

interpreter of nature, and his every word has to them the deepest

significance. He is the man who

"Lives all alone, close to the bone,

And where life is sweetest, constantly eatest."

They resent all criticism of his life or his words. They are impatient

of all analysis of his methods or of his motives, and a word of praise

of him is the surest passport to their good graces.

But the critics sometimes miss the inner harmony which Thoreau's

admirers see, and discern only queer paradoxes and extravagances of

statement where the others hear the voice of nature's oracle. With

most literary men, the power or disposition of those who know or

understand their writings is in some degree a matter of literary

culture. It is hardly so in the case of Thoreau.

The most illiterate man I know who had ever heard of Thoreau, Mr.

Barney Mullins, of Freedom Centre, Outagamie County, Wisconsin, was a

most ardent admirer of Thoreau, while the most eminent critic in

America, James Russell Lowell, does him scant justice. To Lowell, the

finest thoughts of Thoreau are but strawberries from Emerson's garden,

and other critics have followed back these same strawberries through

Emerson's to still older gardens, among them to that of Sir Thomas

Browne.

But, setting the critics aside, let me tell you about Barney Mullins.

Twenty years ago, I lived for a year in the northern part of Wisconsin.

The snow is very deep in the winter there, and once I rode into town

through the snowbanks on a sled drawn by two oxen and driven by Barney

Mullins. Barney was born on the banks of Killarney, and he could

scarcely be said to speak the English language. He told me that before

he came to Freedom Centre he had lived in a town called Concord, in

Massachusetts. I asked him if he had happened to know a man there by

the name of Henry Thoreau. He at once grew enthusiastic and he said,

among other things: "Mr. Thoreau was a land-surveyor in Concord. I

knew him well. He had a way of his own, and he didn't care naught

about money, but if there was ever a gentleman alive, he was one."

Barney seemed much saddened when I told him that Mr. Thoreau had been

dead a dozen years. On parting, he asked me to come out some time to

Freedom Centre, and to spend a night with him. He had n't much of a

room to offer me, but there was always a place in his house for a

friend of Mr. Thoreau. Such is the feeling of this guild of lovers of

Thoreau, and some of you may come to belong to it.

Here is a test for you. Thoreau says: "I long ago lost a hound, a bay

horse, and a turtle-dove, and am still on their trail. Many are the

travelers I have spoken to regarding them, describing their tracks, and

what calls they answered to. I have met one or two who have heard the

hound and the tramp of the horse, and even seen the dove disappear

behind the cloud, and they seemed as anxious to recover them as if they

had lost them themselves."

Now, if any of you, in your dreams, have heard the horse, or seen the

sunshine on the dove's wings, you may join in the search. If not, you

may close the book, for Thoreau has not written for you.

This Thoreau guild is composed, as he himself says, "of knights of a

new, or, rather, an old order, not equestrians or chevaliers, not

Ritters, or riders, but walkers, a still more ancient and honorable

class, I trust."

"I have met," he says, "but one or two persons who understand the art

of walking; who had a genius for sauntering, which word is beautifully

derived from idle people who roved about the country in the Middle Ages

and asked charity, under pretense of going '_à la Sainte Terre_'--a

Sainte-terrer, a Holy Lander. They who never go to the Holy Land in

their walks, as they pretend, are indeed mere idlers and vagabonds; but

they who go there are saunterers, in the good sense. Every walk is a

kind of crusade preached by some Peter the Hermit within us, to go

forth and reconquer this Holy Land from the hands of the Infidels.

"It is true that we are but faint-hearted crusaders, who undertake no

persevering, never-ending enterprises. Our expeditions are but tours,

and come round again at evening to the old hearthside from which we set

out. Half the walk is but retracing our steps. We should go forth on

the shortest walk, perchance, in the spirit of undying adventure, never

to return, prepared to send back our embalmed hearts only as relics to

our desolate kingdoms. If you are ready to leave father and mother,

and brother and sister, and wife and child, and friends; if you have

paid your debts, and made your will, and settled all your affairs, and

are a free man, you are ready for a walk."

Though a severe critic of conventional follies, Thoreau was always a

hopeful man; and no finer rebuke to the philosophy of Pessimism was

ever given than in these words of his: "I know of no more encouraging

fact than the unquestionable ability of a man to elevate his life by a

conscious endeavor. It is something to be able to paint a particular

picture, or to carve a statue, and so make a few objects beautiful; but

it is far more glorious to carve and paint the very atmosphere and

medium through which we look. This, morally, we can do."

But it is not of Thoreau as a saunterer, or as a naturalist, or as an

essayist, that I wish to speak, but as a moralist, and this in relation

to American politics. Thoreau lived in a dark day of our political

history. At one time he made a declaration of independence in a small

way, and refused allegiance and poll-tax to a Government built on a

corner-stone of human slavery. Because of this he was put into jail,

where he remained one night, and where he made some curious

observations on his townspeople as viewed from the inside of the bars.

Emerson came along in the morning, and asked him what he was there for.

"Why are you not in here, Mr. Emerson?" was his reply; for it seemed to

him that no man had the right to be free in a country where some men

were slaves.

"Voting for the right," Thoreau said, "is doing nothing for it; it is

only expressing feebly your desire that right should prevail." He

would not for an instant recognize that political organization as his

government which was the slave's government also. "In fact," he said,

"I will quietly, after my fashion, declare war with the State. Under a

government which imprisons any unjustly, the true place for a just man

is also a prison. I know this well, that if one thousand, if one

hundred, or if one honest man in this State of Massachusetts, ceasing

to remain in this co-partnership, should be locked up in the county

jail therefor, it would be the abolition of slavery in America. It

matters not how small the beginning may seem to be, what is once well

done is done forever."

Thoreau's friends paid his taxes for him, and he was set free, so that

the whole affair seemed like a joke. Yet, as Stevenson says, "If his

example had been followed by a hundred, or by thirty of his followers,

it would have greatly precipitated the era of freedom and justice. We

feel the misdeeds of our country with so little fervor, for we are not

witnesses to the suffering they cause. But when we see them awake an

active horror in our fellow-man; when we see a neighbor prefer to lie

in prison than be so much as passively implicated in their

perpetration, even the dullest of us will begin to realize them with a

quicker pulse."

In the feeling that a wrong, no matter how great, must fall before the

determined assault of a man, no matter how weak, Thoreau found the

reason for his action. The operation of the laws of God is like an

incontrollable torrent. Nothing can stand before them; but the work of

a single man may set the torrent in motion which will sweep away the

accumulations of centuries of wrong.

There is a long chapter in our national history which is not a glorious

record. Most of us are too young to remember much of politics under

the Fugitive Slave Law, or to understand the deference which

politicians of every grade then paid to the peculiar institution. It

was in those days in the Middle West that Kentucky blackguards, backed

by the laws of the United States, and aided not by Northern blackguards

alone, but by many of the best citizens of those States, chased runaway

slaves through the streets of our Northern capitals.

And not the politicians alone, but the teachers and preachers, took

their turn in paying tribute to Caesar. We were told that the Bible

itself was a champion of slavery. Two of our greatest theologians in

the North declared, in the name of the Higher Law, that slavery was a

holy thing, which the Lord, who cursed Canaan, would ever uphold.

In those days there came a man from the West--a tall, gaunt, grizzly,

shaggy-haired, God-fearing man, a son of the Puritans, whose ancestors

came over on the Mayflower. A dangerous fanatic or lunatic, he was

called, and, with the aid of a few poor negroes whom he had stolen from

slavery, he defied the power of this whole slave-catching United

States. A little square brick building, once a sort of car-shop,

stands near the railway station in the town of Harper's Ferry, with the

mountain wall not far behind it, and the Potomac River running below.

And from this building was fired the shot which pierced the heart of

slavery. And the Governor of Virginia captured this man, and took him

out and hung him, and laid his body in the grave, where it still lies

moldering. But there was part of him not in the jurisdiction of

Virginia, a part which they could neither hang nor bury; and, to the

infinite surprise of the Governor of Virginia, his soul went marching

on.

[Illustration: John Brown.]

When they heard in Concord that John Brown had been captured, and was

soon to be hung, Thoreau sent notice through the city that he would

speak in the public hall on the condition and character of John Brown,

on Sunday evening, and invited all to be present.

The Republican Committee and the Committee of the Abolitionists sent

word to him that this was no time to speak; to discuss such matters

then was premature and inadvisable. He replied: "I did not send to you

for advice, but to tell you that I am going to speak." The selectmen

of Concord dared neither grant nor refuse him the hall. At last they

ventured to lose the key in a place where they thought he could find it.

This address of Thoreau, "A Plea for Captain John Brown," should be a

classic in American history. We do not always realize that the time of

American history is now. The dates of the settlement of Jamestown, and

Plymouth, and St. Augustine do not constitute our history. Columbus

did not discover us. In a high sense, the true America is barely

thirty years old, and its first President was Abraham Lincoln.

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