The method and thoroughness of General Cadorna were displayed in

every move, and it is probably no exaggeration to state that even in

the most minute details everything had been reckoned upon, so that

had the unexpected unfortunately happened, he would not have been

taken unawares at any point.

I was told an interesting and amusing incident which conveys a good

idea of this method and thoroughness, which is so characteristic of

the Generalissimo.

On July 17th, 1915, the Mayor of Pavia, who is at present a captain

of artillery, wrote to General Cadorna offering to present a silk

Italian flag to the city of Gorizia the day it was occupied by the

Italians. General Cadorna replied humorously: “Keep it in pepper for

the present.” (Evidently as a preservative against moth).

The Mayor had quite forgotten the incident, when to his surprise, on

the 10th August, 1916, the day after the fall of Gorizia, he received

the following telegram from General Cadorna:

_In reference to your letter of the 17th July, 1915, if you like

you can send or bring what you offer. Salutations._

CADORNA.

Every hour almost brought further confirmation of the magnitude of

the victory that had been achieved by the Duke of Aosta’s third

army. During the three days fighting, 15,393 prisoners, including

350 officers, amongst whom were 20 senior officers, had been taken;

16 guns, a large number of machine guns, and an immense quantity of

ammunition and _materiel_ of every description.

Nor was this all; the entire front was now re-adjusted, and the

Austrians driven out of positions they had got to look upon as

impregnable. They had paid particular attention to the fortifications

of Gorizia, and had made the place a strategic centre round which

they had concentrated important forces.

It transpired that orders were given for the evacuation of the city

some twenty-four hours before the bridge-head, the key to the whole

position, was lost, which proved they realized the straits they were

in; and it is certain that this state of affairs was pretty well

known to General Cadorna.

Not the least interesting feature of the operations was the

employment for the first time of masses of cavalry and the famous

Bersaglieri cyclists, who preceded the advance of the main body of

troops beyond the Isonzo, and from all accounts did most excellent

work. I was fortunate enough to get some interesting sketches of the

cavalry crossing the river under fire.

In Udine, after the first flush of excitement had worn off,

everything reverted to its usual calm. The inhabitants took a

remarkably sober view of the situation, and it was realized that the

victory of Gorizia, glorious though it undoubtedly was, was but a

step further on the hard uphill road to final victory, and the flags

were therefore not left up more than 48 hours.

The importance of what Italy is doing was evidently being realized

now, as several English visitors arrived in Udine during the next few

days on flying visits; amongst others Lord Northcliffe, Mr. H. G.

Wells, and Mr. Harold Cox, also a group of Spanish correspondents,

and a very charming and erudite American citizen, Mr. Whitney Warren,

the distinguished New York architect and membre de l’Institut de

France.

He was bubbling over with enthusiasm for the cause of the Entente,

and had a grip of the aims and doings of the war that made him at

once a delightful and sympathetic comrade and a distinct addition to

the Censorship Club.

The fall of Gorizia brought about such changes along the fighting

front that there was little fear, for the present at any rate, of any

further period of stagnation so far as work for the correspondents

was concerned; we looked like being “full up” for some time.

On the Carso, Monte San Michele had been captured after a desperate

assault and hand to hand fighting, simultaneously with the Gorizia

bridge-head, so the long-standing menace and which had hitherto

barred any possibility of an advance in this direction was removed.

The potentialities opened up therefore by the conquest of the portal,

as it were, of the Carso, were immense; and it is certain that no

one knew this better than the Austrians themselves, for next to the

actual bridge-head there was no position to which they attached more

importance than that of Monte San Michele.

I regret to have to be at variance with the distinguished English

correspondent who wrote of the “towering mountains” and “beetling

crags” of the Carso; but I must point out, if only to convey some

sense of proportion, that Monte San Michele which is the highest

point in this part of the Carso, is only 275 metres in altitude, and

cannot therefore by the wildest stretch of imagination be described

as anything but a lofty hill; as a matter of fact, there are no

greater eminences in the entire Carso area than 450 metres.

Monte San Michele, in spite, however, of not being a “mountain,”

dominated the whole of this portion of the valley of the lower

Isonzo, so it would be difficult to overestimate what its loss meant

to the Austrians.

Its elimination form their line of defence in this direction gave the

Italians a secure tenure of the towns of Gradisca and Sagrado, which

for fifteen months had only nominally been in their possession owing

to their being constantly under the fire of the Austrian batteries

on its crest. These two towns now became habitable for troops and

available as centres for Red Cross work.

It was rumoured that more “big events” were pending in the near

future in this quarter; one was therefore constantly motoring out

there in order to gain a clear conception of what was taking place.

There was now so much of interest along the new line of Front that I

did not remain in Udine any longer than was necessary to work on my

sketches and get them passed by the Censor.

A few days after the fall of Gorizia I motored over there with Baccio

Bacci, of the _Nuovo Giornale_, of Florence, and with Bitetti, of the

_Corriere della Sera_ (of whom I have already spoken), as chauffeur,

to see how things were looking there. Not a week had elapsed since

the victory, yet the changes along the road were simply incredible,

and reflected enormous credit on the organization of the _troupes

sanitaires_ (the sanitation brigade). The iron bridge had been so

damaged by the Austrian curtain fire that it was out of commission

for the time being, so we had perforce to go by the road Barzini and

I had taken.

I therefore had an opportunity of judging for myself what had been

accomplished in five days. The village of Lucinico had now been so

cleared of _débris_ that there was no longer any occasion to leave

the car. We found to our surprise that the road was quite open all

the way to Gorizia, across the battlefield round by Podgora and

through Grafenberg.

The Austrians were still busy sending big shells over at intervals,

and a car just ahead of us had a very narrow escape; it was little

short of a miracle it was not blown to pieces, and it makes me feel

cold when I think of it.

The change everywhere was positively bewildering; if I had not seen

it for myself I should never have believed it possible. With the

exception of the ruined houses and the shattered trunks of the trees

there was no trace remaining of the battle.

The trenches had been filled in, thus forming ready-made graves for

the dead; the wreckage of barbed-wire entanglements; the shell-holes,

the gruesome litter of blood-stained garments; all had disappeared as

though by magic.

Perhaps, though, the most startling transformation was to be seen at

the archway under the railway I described in a previous chapter. It

was positively unrecognizable.

Everything had been cleared away. Unless you had seen it before,

you would never have believed that this very commonplace tunnel

for the road under the embankment, such as one sees everywhere and

through which we drove without stopping, was less than a week before

the elaborately fitted-up Headquarters and domicile of an Austrian

General and his staff.

The store-house in which I had seen the ghastly array of human

packages was now but an ordinary empty shed, the kitchen close by

only a simple wooden hut, the very last place one would have expected

to find an elaborate cuisine in.

To my companion this meant nothing, as it was the first time he

had come this way, but I must confess to a slight feeling of

disappointment that there should have been so much haste to remove

all traces of Austrian Military Kultur.

I felt I should have liked to see it all again, though I suppose had

I been able to, the impression would not have been the same as it

was on that morning when the place had only just been vacated by the

Austrians and the battlefield was, as it were, still red-hot.

There was nothing to stop for in Grafenberg, so we drove straight on

till we came to a wooden bridge which brought us right into Gorizia.

This was one of the bridges which had been partially destroyed on the

day of the battle, but was now repaired.

With the exception of soldiers, the streets were deserted; there was

not a civilian to be seen anywhere, and the shops were still closed,

the inhabitants, it appeared, only being allowed out of doors a

few hours during the daytime. I think it was for two hours in the

morning, and the same in the afternoon; after dark no inhabitant was

allowed in the streets under any pretext. This system saved a lot of

difficult policing, and gave the troops greater freedom of movement.

We found that two cafés were open now, the “Grosses” and another next

to the Theatre, but they were practically deserted. Coffee was about

all you could get to drink; wine and beer being quite out of the

question, and food also, as we discovered later.

We arrived somewhat late in the afternoon, but the evenings were

still long, and there was a full moon, so we knew there would be no

difficulty in getting back to Udine even if we remained till after

dark.

It was rumoured that the Austrians were going to make a big

counter-attack on Gorizia that night, and it was with the idea

of perhaps seeing something interesting and getting some good

“copy” that we had come. Luckily, as will be seen, we ran across a

_confrère_, Arnaldo Fraccaroli, of the _Corriere della Sera_, who had

driven in earlier in the afternoon with the same idea as ourselves,

and he joined us, as the man he had come with was returning to Udine

at once.

But for reasons which we were unable to fathom, it was soon pretty

evident that we were not wanted in Gorizia that day.

At the Headquarters of the General in a big house on the Corso, we

were received by an aide-de-camp with but scant courtesy; in fact,

this was my first experience of anything of the kind in Italy, and

was the more surprising as we all represented important papers, and

our passes were in order in every respect. We were curtly informed,

after being kept waiting in the street for some time, that the

General was “out”; so we decided to go for a walk and return later.

Except that more damage had been done by shells, there was little or

no change in the streets, and from what we could gather there was

little likelihood of the city resuming its normal aspect for a very

long time; such of the inhabitants as could get away were doing so,

and the Italian authorities were putting no obstacles in their way;

as a matter of fact, Gorizia was not a place for non-combatants, as

it was continually being bombarded.

When we got back to the General’s Headquarters we found he had

returned, but it was, however, one thing finding him in, quite

another matter getting him to receive us.

After again being kept waiting outside the garden gate till it was

almost dark, we were coolly told by a sergeant that the General

had nothing to tell us, so could not receive us. This was very

disappointing, but there was no help for it. He was evidently peevish

about something and did not want visitors.

We walked away slowly through the deepening gloom. There was not a

light to be seen anywhere. Now and again the loud report of a big gun

awakened the echoes of the empty streets.

My companions were much upset at the reception we had received,

and were discussing the matter at great length as we went along;

meanwhile I was gradually feeling very hungry and tired and heartily

sick of this aimless wandering along in the obscurity.

Suddenly they came to a decision, and announced to me that we were

going to spend the night in Gorizia, as it would be a pity to return

to Udine and perhaps just miss something important, as there was no

doubt, they explained to me, there was something _en l’air_.

Of course I had no opinion to offer in the matter as I understood so

little Italian, so there was nothing for it but to fall in with their

views. Moreover, there was no possibility of my getting away without

them since the car was theirs.

It having, therefore, been decided to remain in Gorizia, the next

important question was where to put up for the night.

There was, as I have said, not a light to be seen anywhere; not a

soul was about, the soldiers having long since returned to their

quarters. The two cafés were closed, and we were prowling along in

the dark like a lot of tramps in a city of the dead.

Had I been able to join in the conversation of my companions I might

perhaps have found the adventure amusing, but as it was, from my

point of view, it was deadly dull and uninteresting; however, I tried

to buck myself up with the idea that something exciting might happen

later, and so it did, as will be seen.

Our car, it appeared, had been left in the entrance of an hotel

opposite the theatre, so we made our way there to make sure it was

safe. The hotel we found was not locked up, although it was quite

deserted. On a table in the vestibule we, fortunately, discovered a

piece of candle, and, lighting it, we started to explore the place to

see if there was a chance of fixing ourselves up for the night in any

of the rooms.

It was a curious experience, and one that I shall long remember. The

hotel was quite a large one, and to our astonishment all the rooms

were in perfect order, with beds made, water in the jugs and bottles,

and soap, towels, everything in fact in readiness for visitors. We

could have wished for nothing better, except, perhaps, to have found

a whole candle instead of a piece of one; for the idea of being left

in the dark in a short time rather nullified the comfort by which we

were surrounded.

There were so many rooms to choose from that we were inclined to be

fastidious; it is not often that one has the run of a whole hotel,

and gratis at that; however, we settled on two, with a sitting room

in between and with two beds in each.

Now came the vital subject of supper. My car mates, with their usual

inconsequence, had brought nothing at all in the shape of food or

drink with them, always relying on “something turning up.” I had

as usual taken the precaution of putting in my haversack a box of

sardines, bread, cheese, chocolate, and my water flask was filled

with wine; but, of course, this was not sufficient for us all.

Then it turned out that after all we were in luck’s way. Fraccaroli

suddenly recollected that he had had the happy thought of bringing a

hamper with him in case of accident, and we found that it had been

put in our car when he had joined us.

It was brought in amidst general acclamation, and on opening it

we saw that whoever had packed it had, fortunately for us, had

broadminded views as to what one man’s appetite should be like.

There was ample for four people. Cold meat, cooked ham, butter,

bread, fruit, and last, but certainly not least, a magnum bottle of

excellent wine.

One could not have wished for a better supper anywhere, and the

mere sight of it, when I had arranged it artistically on sheets of

newspaper, put us in the highest spirits, and the empty corridors

echoed with our laughter as we tackled it, for we were pretty

ravenous by now. I am sure that no jollier supper party than ours

that night ever took place in Gorizia.

After we had finished, Fraccaroli and Bitetti suggested, as the moon

was now up, our having another attempt at seeing the General. Bacci

and I, however, thought we had done enough walking for one day, so

decided to remain where we were and have a quiet smoke before turning

in. The two men, therefore, went out, and we heard their footsteps

resounding through the empty corridor and down the staircase with

ghostly effect.

We filled our glasses again and lit up our pipes, and then Bacci

suggested that as there was only a tiny bit of candle left we might

dispense with it for a while as it was brilliant moonlight, so we

extinguished it and sat by the open window enjoying the cool breeze.

The room looked on to a small courtyard, and facing us was a high

wall, so we could not see far.

It was a glorious summer night, and all was so quiet and peaceful

that it was difficult for the moment to realise how near were the

horrors of war.

[Illustration: I was fortunate enough to get some interesting

sketches of the cavalry crossing the river under fire (_see page 238_)

_To face page 246_]

It was just the sort of night to engender depth of thought, and

we were both in poetic vein, and soliloquizing on the iniquity of

warfare while nature was always so beautiful, when the loud report of

a gun rang out in the stillness of the night and brought us back

to stern reality. It was so close that had it not been for the wall

in front of us we could have seen where it came from.

There were a few seconds of dead silence, and then there broke out

the most terrific fusillade it would be possible to imagine; machine

gun and rifle fire mixed up in one long hellish tatoo; whilst, as

though to punctuate the unearthly music, at intervals one heard

the isolated bang of trench mortars and the sharp detonation of

hand-grenades.

The extraordinary suddenness of it all was so remarkable that it was

as if it had been timed to commence at a certain minute.

All quietude was now at an end, and although the firing varied in

intensity it never ceased. At moments there would be a lull, and it

appeared as though about to die out, and then it would recommence

with renewed violence.

It could certainly not have been more than a few hundred yards away,

so near in fact that now and again one heard shouts and yells, and

several stray bullets actually struck the upper part of the hotel.

The fighting was still continuing when our companions returned. They

told us that they had found out that this was the commencement of

the expected counter-attack, but that so far it was not developing

to any serious extent, though what the night might bring forth might

alter matters considerably; anyhow, the Italians were not being taken

unawares as the Austrians were discovering.

This was interesting news, and made one feel that we were not

spending the night in Gorizia for nothing, and that we might have

an exciting time before the morning. For the moment, however, since

there was nothing to be seen, we thought the best thing to do was to

lie down and have a rest for an hour or so.

Our companions had had an extra bit of luck whilst they were out, in

the shape of a whole candle which had been given them, so we ran no

further risk of being left in darkness.

Of course we all lay down in our clothes, boots and all, ready for

any emergency; when big “counter-attacks” are on the _tapis_ it is as

well to take no chances.

The beds looked very comfortable, and had clean sheets and pillow

cases, but although I was very tired, I could not somehow get to

sleep for a long while. I felt a sensation of discomfort which was

almost unbearable, and had it not been that I did not wish to disturb

my companions, I should have got up and walked about the room.

It is not pleasant lying on a soft bed with all your clothes on,

including field boots, on a hot night, and I put my restlessness

down to this. However, I managed to doze off fitfully after a while,

though for what appeared to be hours I was being continually woke

up by what I took to be the noise made by men wearing heavy boots

running down the stone stairs and slamming the street door.

This at last woke me completely, when I realized that the noise came

from the trenches, and was caused by the rattle of machine guns and

rifles and the booming of mortars. I managed to get to sleep after

this; the monotony of the noise ended by exercising a sedative effect

on my nerves.

When I awoke it was quite early, but to my surprise I had the

rooms to myself, my companions having already gone out. I found

them downstairs, and learned that they had passed the night seated

in the car; they had decided that anything was preferable to the

“comfortable” beds of the hotel.

I then comprehended the cause of my “restlessness.” It was a striking

instance of “Where ignorance is bliss,” etc., for I had managed to

have a good sleep in spite of it all.

Gorizia, in the early morning sunshine, looked delightful, and

everybody we met seemed bright and cheerful like the weather; and

quite indifferent to the bombardment which still continued at

intervals. An officer told me that one often ended by trying mentally

to calculate what all this senseless waste of ammunition was costing

per hour.

Nothing had come of the counter-attack, except to give the Italians

a chance of further consolidating their front here, and as there

appeared no likelihood of anything important happening that day we

arranged to return to Udine forthwith.

Instead, however, of going via Grafenberg, we took the road which

follows the left bank of the Isonzo and goes through Savogna,

Sdraussina, and Sagrado, as Bacci was anxious to shake hands with a

doctor friend of his who was with a field hospital somewhere this way.

This gave us an opportunity of seeing the wonderful cantonments of

the troops waiting to advance on the Carso.

From Savogna right on to Sagrado, a distance of, roughly speaking,

six miles, was one continuous encampment on either side of the road.

A whole army corps must have been gathered here, cavalry, artillery,

infantry, motor transport, cyclists and motor ambulances, in endless

encampments.

It was as interesting a panorama of military activity as I had seen

anywhere on the Italian Front, and was alone worth coming here to

see. The troops were fully protected from shell fire, as the road

all the way is sheltered by Monte San Michele and the adjacent

hills, which tower above the route, so it was possible to construct

permanent huts on the slopes of the hill, and also to take advantage

of the many caves which are a feature of this region, to quarter the

men in.

Monte San Michele, as I shall describe in my next chapter, was

captured simultaneously with Gorizia, and one saw from here the

formidable series of trenches the Italians, with a courage which will

pass into history, constructed and gradually pushed forward up the

hill, under the fire of the Austrian guns, until the final assault,

when the whole position was taken.

Unless this operation had been successful, no troops would have been

here now, as this road was, prior to the victory, a “No man’s land.”

One saw every phase of soldier life along this interesting road,

and one could not fail to be deeply impressed by the extraordinary

“completeness,” I can think of no other word, of the arrangements on

all sides, and the business-like air of readiness to go anywhere at a

moment’s notice of every unit. Certain it is that the Austrians had

no conception of what was ready for them behind these hills.

It was like looking for a needle in a bundle of hay to find any

particular field ambulance amongst such a multitude, and the more

specially as these ambulance stations are continually being shifted

as necessity arises. So, after trying for some time and going

backwards and forwards up and down the road in the vicinity of

Sdraussina, where we hoped to come across it, we had to give it up as

a bad job.

A somewhat striking feature of this vast camping area were the

military cemeteries, where hundreds of soldiers’ graves were crowded

together in serried lines. Of course there is no sentiment in

warfare, and soldiers live in the midst of death, but it struck me

as somewhat unnecessary putting this burial ground alongside a road

so frequently traversed by the troops when there is so much space

elsewhere.

The Isonzo, which here is a broad, pelucid and swiftly running

stream much divided up with gravel islets, presented a scene of much

animation; hundreds of soldiers were taking advantage of a few hours

peaceful interregnum to have a bath and do a day’s washing.

We continued on past Sagrado, crossing the river lower down by a

newly-placed pontoon bridge below San Pietro dell Isonzo. Here there

was no regular road, but merely a rough track leading to the river,

and it was only by the skilfulness of our chauffeur friend that the

car was got through at all without accident.

Round about here were many Austrian trenches that had been hastily

abandoned, so we had a good opportunity for examining them.

They struck me as being constructed on the most approved principles,

and were finished in elaborate style with wicker work lining to the

walls and along the floors. None of these trenches, however, had ever

been used, so it was only possible to hazard conjectures as to their

utility.

Just here we met the cavalry division advancing dismounted in Indian

file. A fine lot of well-equipped men with very serviceable looking

horses.

It may be of interest to mention here that most of the Italian

cavalry officers who, as is well known, are magnificent horsemen,

ride thoroughbreds of Irish descent.

When we got back to Udine we learned that Gorizia was being heavily

shelled from Monte Santo, so it looked as if the Austrians were

attempting to destroy it by degrees, as the Huns are doing with

Rheims in revenge for losing it.

CHAPTER XVIII

Big operations on the Carso—General optimism—No risks

taken—Great changes brought about by the victory—A trip to the

new lines—Gradisca and Sagrado—A walk round Gradisca—Monte San

Michele—Sagrado—Disappearance of Austrian aeroplanes and observation

balloons—Position of Italian “drachen” as compared with French—On

the road to Doberdo—_Moral_ of troops—Like at a picnic—A regiment

on its way to the trenches—The Italian a “thinker”—Noticeable

absence of smoking—My first impression of the Carso—Nature in its

most savage mood—The Brighton downs covered with rocks—Incessant

thunder of guns—Doberdo hottest corner of the Carso—No troops—Stroll

through ruins of street—Ready to make a bolt—A fine view—The Austrian

trenches—Shallow furrows—Awful condition of trenches—Grim and

barbarous devices—Austrian infamies—Iron-topped bludgeons, poisoned

cigarettes, etc.—Under fire—A dash for a dug-out—The imperturbable

_Carabinieri_—Like a thunderbolt—A little incident—Brilliant

wit—The limit of patience—The Italian batteries open fire—No

liberties to be taken—On the way back—Effect of the heavy

firing—Motor ambulances—Magnified effect of shell fire on Carso—Rock

splinters—Terrible wounds.

CHAPTER XVIII

All the big operations were now taking place on the Carso, and

scarcely a day passed without news of progress in that direction.

The official _communiqués_ were, therefore, of the most cheery

description, and their cheerfulness was reflected all over the town.

Everybody was optimistic, and one was continually hearing rumours of

the surprises in store for the Austrians during the next few weeks.

That many of these rumours materialised was undeniable, but it was

soon realised that the conquest of the Carso is a very tough job, and

will require a lot of patience and necessitate much hard fighting for

every yard of ground; which obviously also meant much great sacrifice

of gallant lives unless the advance is carried out methodically and

without undue haste. In this respect General Cadorna may be relied

on, and also to take no risks of failure.

The Carso, therefore, presented the chief point of interest after

the fall of Gorizia, as every advance there means progress towards

the main objective, Trieste. Scarcely a day passed now without a car

from the Censorship going in the direction of the fighting line. I

was therefore constantly able to make excursions, and was gradually

filling up my sketch book with interesting subjects.

I may mention that no difficulty whatever was put in my way, and so

long as I could find a car to take me, I was at liberty to go where I

chose and stay away as long as I liked; it would have been impossible

to have been treated with greater courtesy and regard, and I shall

never be sufficiently grateful for it.

The changes brought about by the victory and the brilliant strategy

of General Cadorna were so widespread that they would have been

unbelievable if one had not seen it all for oneself a few days after

the battle. In fact, it was almost at once that the results were

discernable. You realized it yourself as soon as you reached certain

well-known points which had hitherto been inside the danger zone. The

sense of relief at being able to move about freely and without having

to keep your ears cocked all the time, listening for shells coming

over, was very pleasant.

With a little party of _confrères_ I motored out to the new Italian

lines within a few hours of their re-adjustment.

Most of the places we went through in order to get close up to the

fighting had only become accessible since the fall of Gorizia, whilst

others, as for instance Sagrado, and Gradisca, were now almost

peaceful after months of constant bombardment.

Gradisca interested me very particularly, as I had lively

recollections of the flying visit I had paid to it the preceding year

when, as I have described in a previous chapter, our cars to get

there had to run the gauntlet of the fire of the batteries on Monte

San Michele.

Now the Austrian guns were well out of range, and the little town

was quite delightfully peaceful in comparison, and you could wander

as you pleased under the big trees in the park, round the bandstand,

and fancy you were waiting for the music to commence; or through the

grass-grown, deserted streets and take note of the wanton damage done

by the Austrians to their own property.

Monte San Michele, at the back of the town, was now but a very

ordinary and unpicturesque hill in the distance, and from the

military standpoint no longer of any importance whatever.

The town itself was rapidly being occupied, and inhabited; several of

the big buildings were being transformed into first line hospitals,

and the General of the division had already fixed up his headquarters

here.

All these changes conveyed more to me than any _communiqués_ had

done; I saw for myself what had been accomplished since I was last

there, and there was no doubting the evidence of my own eyes.

At Sagrado, on the lower Isonzo, a similar condition of affairs

existed; but here it was my first visit, as it was inaccessible

the previous year. A one-time beautiful little town, I should say,

typically Austrian, it is true, but nevertheless from all accounts a

very pleasant place to live in.

All the river frontage at the present time is nothing but a shapeless

heap of ruins; the magnificent bridge and the elaborate system of

locks are irreparably damaged.

Fortunately a considerable portion of the town escaped damage by the

shells, and this was now crowded with troops. Yet, barely a week

before, it was practically uninhabitable except at enormous risk.

Not the least significant of changes one noticed on the way to the

lines was the complete disappearance of Austrian aeroplanes. There

had been a few over Gorizia on the great day, but here there appeared

to be none at all, and the “Caproni” now held undisputed sway in the

air.

As to the observation balloons, the “Drachen,” they had all along

been noticeable by their absence; as a matter of fact, I don’t

recollect ever seeing any of these aerial look-outs over the Austrian

lines at any time, the reason for this deficiency being perhaps that

they were not found to sufficiently fulfil their purpose.

The Italians evidently thought differently, and their “drachen” were

to be seen everywhere, and along this front in particular.

In this connection I could not fail to note how much further

behind the lines they are stationed here as compared with their

usual position on the French Front. There may be some very simple

explanation of this, but it appeared to me as a layman that they lost

a lot of their utility by being always so distant from the Austrian

lines.

We were bound for Doberdo, the village on the Carso that was being

mentioned every day in the _communiqués_. From Sagrado we went by way

of Fogliano, the road skirting the railway most of the way. We were

now on the confines of a region of universal havoc and desolation.

War had swept across the country-side with the devastating effect of

a prairie fire. Nothing had escaped it. All the villages we passed

through were only names now, and nothing remained but ruins to

indicate where they had been; of inhabitants, of course, there was

not so much as a trace.

In spite, however, of the general devastation, troops were to be

seen everywhere, and numbers were camping even among the ruins with

the utmost unconcern; in fact, you couldn’t fail to notice that the

_moral_ of the men was wonderful, and that they seemed as cheerful as

if at a picnic.

The Italian soldier struck me as having a happy faculty for making

the best of everything, so hardships do not seem to trouble him, and

the equivalent of “grousing” is, as I have already stated, an unknown

word in his vocabulary.

This was particularly observable here, though, of course, the

glorious weather may have had some thing to do with it; but the fact

remained that they were supporting exceptional hardships with a

stoicism that was quite remarkable, I thought.

[Illustration: The only difficulty the officers experienced was in

getting them to advance with caution (see page 273)

_To face page 258_]

Along the road at one place we passed a regiment halted on its way

to the trenches. The men, all apparently very young, were sitting or

lying about on either side of the road. We had to slow down in order

to get past, so I had an opportunity to take a mental note of the

scene.

It was the more interesting to me as I knew that these men were fully

aware that in a couple of hours or so they would be in the thick

of the hottest fighting. Nevertheless, I could see no trace of any

nervous excitement, though the guns were booming in the distance;

they might have all been case-hardened old warriors, so far as you

could outwardly judge from their stolid demeanour.

Many were taking advantage of the halt to snatch a few minutes sleep,

whilst others were writing letters. There was very little of the

grouping together or chatting one would have expected to see. The

Italian of to-day is becoming a “thinker.”

But what struck me perhaps most of all was the quite noticeable

absence of smoking. Probably every other man in an English or French

regiment under the circumstances would have had a pipe or a cigarette

in his mouth, and would have considered the hardships increased

tenfold if he hadn’t been able to enjoy a smoke. Here the men in the

field don’t seem to look upon tobacco as an absolute necessity; so

far as I could judge; and one seldom sees them smoking on the march,

like the French _poilu_, or the English Tommy.

About a mile and a half past Fogliano we took a road that went by an

archway under the railway embankment, and brought us a few hundred

yards on to a heap of rubble that had once been a little village

named Redipuglia, if I remember rightly.

On our right was the much talked of Monte Cosich, a hill that had

been the scene of innumerable desperate fights, and facing us was the

commencement of the Carso.

I shall never forget my first impression of this shell-swept waste;

for what I had already seen of it was only from a distance, and

though through powerful binoculars, one was not really able to form

any conception of what it is like in reality. I had been prepared to

see Nature in its most savage mood, but the scene before me was so

terrible in its utter desolation as to inspire a sense of awe.

Imagine the Brighton downs covered from end to end with colourless

stones and rock instead of turf; no sign of vegetation anywhere;

ribbed in every direction with trenches protected by low, sand-bagged

walls; bristling with wire entanglements, and everywhere pitted with

huge shell-craters.

Even then you have only a faint conception of what war means on the

Carso, and the awful character of the task the Italians have had

before them for the past eighteen months.

There is certainly nothing to compare with it on any of the other

Fronts; for here nature appears to have connived at the efforts of

man, and every hollow and every hummock form as it were potential

bastions. The incessant thunder of the guns in the distance seemed,

as it were, to be in keeping with the utter desolation of the scene.

The road gradually ascended for about a couple of miles, till we at

last arrived on the plateau of Doberdo, and close to all that remains

of the village.

Fighting was going on only a short distance away in the direction of

Nova Vas, so we were under fire here, as shrapnel was bursting all

round the village, and at times in amongst the ruins as well.

Doberdo was then reputed to be the hottest corner of the Carso, and

one literally took one’s life into one’s hands when going there.

But it was, nevertheless, so absorbingly interesting that it

compensated for the risk one was taking, and there was a weird sort

of fascination in listening to the booming of the guns and watching

the shells bursting.

There were no troops here, only some officers and a few soldiers,

for the village was far too much exposed for actual occupation; but

it was on the road to the trenches, so it was to a certain extent

“occupied” for the moment. There was also a Field Dressing Station,

where a few devoted Red Cross men were working under conditions of

ever-present peril.

Every yard almost of the ground had been shelled, and it was

pock-marked with craters of all sizes. In fact, the wonder was that

even a particle of the village was left standing.

We left the car under the shelter of the remnant of a wall, and

strolled along what had evidently been the main street; but it was

not altogether what one would term a pleasant stroll, for the stench

of unburied dead was in the air, and horrible sights faced you on all

sides.

We proceeded very gingerly and ready to make a bolt for cover

whenever we heard the warning screech of an approaching shell. There

was really not more to see at one end of the street than the other,

but one feels just a little bit restless standing still under fire,

so we started off on a look round.

At the end of the village there was a fine view looking towards

Oppachiasella on the left, and Monte Cosich and the road by which

we had come up on the right. One was, therefore, able to judge for

oneself what fighting in this arid wilderness means.

You had the impression of gazing on the scene of an earthquake,

so little semblance to anything recognizable was there in sight.

Here and there a black and gaping hole on the hillside indicated

the entrance to one of the famous Carso caves, which are so

characteristic a feature of the region.

What was left of the Austrian trenches after the Italian artillery

had done with them was sufficient to convey an idea of the awful time

their occupants must have passed through; you had the idea that any

human beings who survived after being in such an inferno deserved

peace and quietude to the end of their days.

In many cases these trenches were only a few yards apart, so the

courage necessary to take them by direct assault must have been

extraordinary. One could see the dead lying in between them. The

peculiar rock formation of the whole area precludes any making of

actual trenches except with enormous labour; to obviate this shallow

furrows are formed and protected with stone parapets, finished with

sand-bags (or rather bags of small stones, as, of course, there is no

sand here).

The condition of these parapets and “trenches” after continual

pounding with high explosives may be left to the imagination. A

gruesome detail must be mentioned: so difficult is it to excavate the

ground here that the dead are not being “buried” but simply covered

over with stones.

Many grim and barbarous devices for causing death in the most

horrible and unexpected form were discovered in the Austrian trenches

here on the Doberdo plateau, and the mere sight of them was often

sufficient to rouse the Italian soldiers to a pitch of frenzy.

One is apt to forget at times that the Austrian is by nature quite

as callous and inhuman a creature as the Hun, but here one had ample

reminder of what he is capable of when he realises that he is up

against a better man than himself.

It is of historic interest in this connection to recount a few of

the new infamies these apt disciples of the Hun have introduced:

the poisoned cigarettes and shaving brushes left in the trenches;

the bombs under dead bodies; explosive bullets; baccilli of typhoid

dropped from aeroplanes; and the iron-topped bludgeons.

The latter instrument of torture, for it is nothing less, is quite

one of the latest devices of Austrian “Kultur” for putting a wounded

adversary to death. The iron head is studded with jagged nails, and

has a long spike let into the end. No South Sea cannibal ever devised

a more awful weapon.

I was lucky enough to get one and brought it back to London, where it

makes a fitting pendant in my studio to another barbaric “souvenir”

of the war, one of the Hun “_proclamations_” put on the walls in

Rheims before the battle of the Marne.

However, to revert to Doberdo. We stood for some little while at the

end of the village endeavouring to grasp the import of the various

strategic points we could discern from here, when all of a sudden the

Austrian batteries started a furious bombardment in our direction

with apparently no object whatever, except perhaps that our car had

been seen, and they hoped to stop any further movement on the road.

We could see shell after shell bursting with wonderful precision on

either side, and in the centre, of the road. Then they must have

spotted our little group, for the range was shortened and we found

ourselves apparently receiving the polite attention of all the guns.

My two companions made a dash for a sort of dug-out which was close

by, and I was about to follow them when I happened to glance round

and saw a _carabinieri_ standing right out in the road a few yards

away, as imperturbably as though it was a slight shower of rain

passing over. He was looking in my direction, and I fancied I caught

a twinkle of amusement in his eyes at my hurry.

In an instant the thought flashed through my mind: if it doesn’t

matter to him remaining in the open why should it to me? So I climbed

back on to the road, trying the while to appear as though I had never

really intended to take shelter.

I had scarcely regained my feet when I heard the wail of an

approaching shell, and then the peculiar and unmistakable sound of a

big shrapnel about to burst overhead.

I only just had time to put my arm up to protect my eyes when it

exploded. It was like a thunderbolt, and so close that I heard pieces

of metal strike the ground all round me.

A moment elapsed and footsteps approached. Turning round I saw a

soldier I had not noticed before; he was fumbling with something in

his hands which appeared too hot to hold easily.

Then to my astonishment he said to me with a laugh, and in perfect

English: “I think this was addressed to you, Sir,” at the same time

handing me a jagged little piece of shell.

I was so taken aback at hearing English spoken just at that

particular moment that all I found to say to him in reply to his

brilliant wit was the idiotic commonplace “Thanks very much,” as I

took the interesting fragment.

It occurred to me afterwards that he must have thought me a very

taciturn and phlegmatic Englishman, but I had just had a very narrow

escape and felt a bit shaken up, as may be imagined, so was scarcely

in the mood for conversational effort.

We had hoped to have a look at the trenches round the lake of

Doberdo, about three-quarters of a mile away from the village, but

with the firing so intense and showing every sign of increasing

rather than diminishing, it would have been madness to have attempted

to get there, as it was right out in the open. In fact, there was

considerable doubt as to the advisability of starting on the return

journey yet, as the road was in the thick of it.

We had only just been remarking on the extraordinary quiescence of

the Italian guns which had not fired a shot since we had been up

here, when scarcely were the words out of our mouths than suddenly,

as though the limit of patience had been reached, with a terrifying

crash, all the batteries near us opened fire.

The result was positively magnificent, and roused one to the pitch

of enthusiasm. We could see the shells bursting along the crest of a

hill some two thousand yards away with such accuracy of aim that in

a few moments there was probably not a yard of the ground that had

not been plastered with high explosives; and anything living that was

there must have been battered out of existence.

The Italian Commander had no intention of wasting ammunition,

however; he only wished to show he was allowing no liberties to

be taken with him; for in less than a quarter of an hour the

Italian fire ceased with the same suddenness it had started, and

notwithstanding that the Austrian guns were still going it as hard as

ever.

There was no use waiting indefinitely for the chance of getting away

in quietude, so we started off on our return to Sagrado. We had extra

passengers in the car now, three officers having asked us to give

them a lift part of the way. One could not very well refuse, but it

made it a very tight fit.

The road was downhill all the way, and there were one or two awkward

turns. The effect of the heavy firing was visible all the way. There

were big shell-holes and stones everywhere, so it was impossible to

go at any speed, much as we should have liked it.

The only thing to do, therefore, was to sit still and trust to luck.

One or two shells burst quite close by us, but we managed to get out

of range safely.

We passed some motor ambulances full of serious casualties from

the plateau round Doberdo. Even when there was no actual battle

proceeding never a day passed I learned without a constant stream

of wounded coming down. The promiscuous shell fire of the Austrians

continually taking toll somewhere and helping to keep the ambulances

busy and the hospitals full.

I was told in Udine that the wounded coming in from the Carso are

usually found to be more seriously injured than those from any other

Front; the explanation of this being that owing to the peculiar

character of the rocky surface the effect of a shell exploding is, as

it were, magnified several times.

Wounds, therefore, are caused as often by the splinters of rock

flying upwards, and ricochets, as from the actual fragments of the

projectile itself. It is certain that the majority of the terrible

facial injuries are more frequently caused by re-percussion than by

direct hits.

As will have been gathered, therefore, the soldiers of Italy in this

region of desolation are fighting against two enemies, the Austrians

and the Carso.

CHAPTER XIX

Difficulties Italians have still to contend with on way to

Trieste—Italian superior in fighting quality—Dash and reckless

courage—Success reckoned by yards—Total number of prisoners taken—A

huge seine net—The “call of the wild”—A visit to San Martino del

Carso—My companion—Our route—The attraction of the road—Early morning

motoring—On our own—The unconventional quarters of the divisional

general—The Rubbia-Savogna railway station.—The signalman’s cabin—An

interesting chat with the General—At our own risk—The big camp on

Monte San Michele—The desolate waste of the Carso—An incident—Nothing

to sketch—“Ecco San Martino del Carso”—Shapeless dust-covered

rubble—The Austrian trenches amongst the ruins—Under fire—Back to

Udine—A pleasant little episode—Déjeuner to Colonel Barbarich at

Grado—A “day’s outing”—The little “Human” touch—The “funk-holes” in

the dining room—A trip in a submarine chaser—Things quiet in Udine—A

period of comparative inactivity.

CHAPTER XIX

A single glance at the map to-day—I am writing this in January—is

sufficient to give an idea of the enormous difficulties the Italians

have still to contend against and surmount in forcing their way

across the formidable barrier of stony wilderness between their

present position and their obvious objective—Trieste.

It is said that they will find that apart from the terrible character

of the natural obstacles, which, as I have endeavoured to show, they

are up against, the Austrians have series after series of entrenched

lines, each of which will have to be captured by direct assault.

Although it has been seen that man for man the Italian is far

and away superior in fighting quality to the Austrian, it cannot

be denied that when well supplied with machine guns, and behind

positions which afford him almost complete protection, the Austrian

soldier will put up a very determined resistance before he gives in.

This factor must, therefore, be reckoned with in any commencement of

an attempt at an advance.

The dash and reckless courage of the Italians, whilst thoroughly to

be relied upon under any circumstances however trying, must always

be held, as it were, in leash, otherwise even the smallest forward

move will be only achieved at an awful sacrifice of gallant lives.

The utmost caution, moreover, will have to be exercised, so as not

to fall into a _guet apens_, and every step forward must be fully

protected.

When success, therefore, can only be reckoned on, as it were, by

yards, it is not surprising to find on examining the map how slow

apparently has been the progress during the past four months; but

it is progress nevertheless, and the most tangible proof of it is

contained in the concluding lines of the brief summary issued by the

Italian supreme command of the operations from September to December:

“The total of prisoners taken on the Julian Front (_i.e._, the Isonzo

and the Carso) from August to December was 42,000, and the guns

numbered 60 and the machine guns 200.”

The gradual advance has not been confined to any one particular

sector of this Front, but was part of the general scheme which is

operating like a huge seine net over this part of the Carso. The

interest, therefore, was entirely concentrated in this zone after the

fall of Gorizia, and I never missed an opportunity of going in that

direction on the chance of getting some good subjects for my sketch

book.

I remember some years ago when I was crossing the Gobi desert, I

discovered that the desolation of the scene around me exercised an

inexplicable sort of fascination, and at times I would have a strange

longing to wander away alone into the wilderness.

I experienced somewhat the same sensation on the Carso. It is most

probably what Jack London designated the “call of the wild.” In this

case, however, the fascination was tempered by the knowledge that

one’s wandering fit might be cut short by an Austrian bullet, so

one’s peregrinations had perforce to be somewhat curtailed.

There was, of course, much of great interest to see and sketch in

the area where active operations were in progress, whilst every day

almost there seemed to be something, either in the shape of a rumour,

or in the official _communiqué_, that formed a good excuse for

getting into a car and heading for the “sound of the guns” again.

[Illustration: They came racing across the stretch of “No man’s land”

(_see page 294_)

_To face page 270_]

On one of these occasions I had as my companion Robert Vaucher, the

correspondent of the Paris _Illustration_, who had just arrived at

the Front for a short visit.

We decided to make for San Martino del Carso, the first village

captured by the Italians on the Carso, as it was quite close to the

fighting then going on round Oppachiassella.

Our route was via Palmanova, Romans and Sagrado a road one had got

to know by heart, so to speak, but of which one never tired, for

somehow, curiously enough, everything always seemed novel although

you had seen it many times before.

There was also the charm of starting off in a car just after sunrise;

it had a touch of adventure about it that made me feel quite youthful

again. I never tired of the long drives; and in the early morning the

air was like breathing champagne.

One frequently had the road to oneself at this hour, and you could

have imagined you were on a pleasure jaunt till you heard the booming

of the guns above the noise of the engine; for it did not matter how

early one was, the guns never seemed to be silent. With a sympathetic

companion in the car these runs out to the lines were quite amongst

the pleasantest features of one’s life up at the Front.

On this particular occasion the fact of being with someone with whom

I could converse freely made it still more agreeable. We went off

quite “on our own,” as Vaucher speaks Italian fluently; and as our

soldier chauffeur knew the road well, there was not much fear of our

getting lost.

We decided that it was advisable for form’s sake to call on the

Divisional General, and ask for his permission to pass through the

lines. With some little difficulty we succeeded in discovering his

Headquarters. These were, we learned, on the railway, close to the

Rubbia-Savogna Station, on the Trieste-Gorizia line.

It turned out to be about the last place where one would have

expected to unearth a General. The station itself was in ruins,

and presented a pathetically forlorn appearance, with posters and

time-tables hanging in tatters from the walls; no train had passed

here for very many months.

We left the car on the permanent way alongside the platform, and

picked our way along the track through the twisted and displaced

rails to the signalman’s “cabin,” which had been converted into the

Headquarters _pro tem_.

It was as unconventional and warlike as could well be imagined, and

as a subject for a picture would have delighted a military painter.

The General was a well set up, good-looking man of middle age, and

quite the most unassuming officer of his rank I have ever met. After

carefully examining our military permits to come there, he received

us with the utmost cordiality. He spoke French fluently, and was

apparently much interested in our work as war correspondents.

There was no difficulty, he said, about our going to San Martino,

but we did so at our own risk, as it was his duty to warn us that

it was still being constantly shelled; in fact, he added, the whole

neighbourhood was under fire, and he pointed out a gaping hole a few

yards away where a shell had burst only an hour before our arrival,

and had blown a small hut to atoms.

The railway station was being continually bombarded, and he was sorry

to say that he had lost a good many of his staff here.

No strategic object whatever was attained by this promiscuous

shelling; the only thing it did was to get on the men’s nerves and

make them fidgetty.

“They want to be up and doing instead of waiting about here when

their comrades have gone on ahead.”

We had quite a long talk with him, and gathered some interesting

details of the fighting that had taken place round here. He was most

enthusiastic about the _moral_ of his troops, that no fatigue or pain

can quell.

The only difficulty the officers experienced was in getting them to

advance with caution. “Ils deviennent des tigrés une fois lancés;

c’est difficile de les retenir.”

As we bade him adieu, he asked us as a personal favour not to mention

him in any article we might write, adding modestly: “Je ne suis qu’un

soldat de l’Italie, et ne désire pas de réclame.”

There was a turning off the main road beyond Sdraussina that passed

under the railway embankment, and then went up to San Martino del

Carso.

Here there was an animated scene of military activity. A battalion of

infantry was bivouacing, and up the side of the hill, which was one

of the slopes of Monte San Michele, there was a big camp with tents

arranged in careful alignment. I mention this latter fact as it was

an unusual spectacle to see an encampment so well “pitched.”

Both the bivouac and the tents were quite protected from shell-fire

by the brow of the hill, but they would have made an easy target

had the Austrians had any aeroplanes here; doubtless, though, all

precautions had been taken by the Italian Commander in the event of

this.

Over the crest of the hill the scene changed as though by magic, and

all sign of military movement disappeared.

The desolate waste of the Carso faced us, and we were in the zone of

death and desolation. The road was absolutely without a vestige of

“cover”; it was but a track across the rocky ground, and now wound

over a series of low, undulating ridges, on which one could trace the

battered remains of trenches.

Huge shell-craters were visible everywhere, and the road itself was

so freshly damaged in places that I involuntarily recalled what the

General had told us, and wondered whether we should get back safely.

The country was so open and uninteresting that one could see all that

there was to see for several miles ahead; it was therefore certain no

scenic surprises were awaiting you.

Meanwhile shells were bursting with unpleasant persistency round

about the road; it was not what one could term an inviting prospect

and recalled an incident that had occurred a few days previously on

this very road.

There was a good deal of firing going on as usual, and the chauffeur

of an officer’s car suddenly lost his nerve and became completely

paralysed with fear, not an altogether unusual case, I believe.

It was a very awkward situation, as the officer knew nothing about

driving, so he was obliged to sit still for over an hour, when,

fortunately for him, a motor lorry came along, and he was extricated

from his predicament.

It seemed to me to be very purposeless going on further, since there

was absolutely nothing to sketch and still less to write about.

Since, however, we could not be far from our destination now, I

thought it best to say nothing.

But where was the village? I knew by what we had been told that we

must be close to it by now; yet there was no trace of habitation

anywhere.

The chauffeur suddenly turned round and, pointing to what appeared

to be a rugged slope just ahead, said quietly, “Ecco San Martino del

Carso.”

I am hardened to the sight of ruins by now after more than two years

at the war, but I must admit I had a bit of a shock when I realized

that this long, low line of shapeless, dust-covered rubble actually

bore a name, and that this was the place we had risked coming out to

see.

No earthquake could have more effectually wiped out this village than

have the combined Italian and Austrian batteries.

We drove up the slope to what had been the commencement of the

houses. To our surprise a motor lorry was drawn up under the shelter

of a bit of wall; two men were with it. What was their object in

being there one could not perceive, as there was no other sign of

life around.

We left the car here, and I went for a stroll round with my sketch

book, whilst Vaucher took his camera and went off by himself to find

a subject worth a photograph.

The Austrian trenches commenced in amongst the ruins: they were

typical of the Carso; only a couple of feet or so in depth, and

actually hewn out of the solid rock, with a low wall of stones in

front as a breastwork.

So roughly were they made that it was positively tiring to walk along

them even a short distance. To have passed any time in them under

fire with splinters of rock flying about must have been a terrible

ordeal, especially at night.

San Martino was certainly the reverse of interesting, and I was

hoping my comrade would soon return so that we could get away, when

the distant boom of a gun was heard, followed by the ominous wail of

a big shell approaching.

The two soldiers and our chauffeur, who were chatting together,

made a dash for cover underneath the lorry; whilst I, with a sudden

impulse I cannot explain, flung myself face downwards on the ground,

as there was no time to make for the shelter of the trench.

The shell exploded sufficiently near to make one very uncomfortable,

but fortunately without doing us any harm. A couple more quickly

followed, but we could see that the gunners had not yet got the

range, so there was nothing to worry about for the moment.

Vaucher soon returned, having had a futile walk; so we made up for it

all by taking snapshots of ourselves under fire, a somewhat idiotic

procedure.

As we drove back to Udine, we were agreed that, considering how

little there had been to see, _le jeu ne valait pas la chandelle_, or

rather _ne valait pas le petrole_, to bring the saying up to date.

A very pleasant little episode a few days later made a welcome

interlude to our warlike energies. The Director of the Censorship,

Colonel Barbarich, received his full colonelcy, and to celebrate the

event the correspondents invited him and his brother officers to a

fish déjeuner at Grado, the little quondam Austrian watering place on

the Adriatic.

We made a “day’s outing” of it; several of the younger men starting

off early so as to have a bathe in the sea before lunch.

It was glorious weather, and we had a “top hole” time. It all went

off without a hitch; the déjeuner was excellent; I don’t think I ever

tasted finer fish anywhere; the wine could not have been better, and,

of course, we had several eloquent speeches to wind up with.

There was just that little “Human” touch about the whole thing

that helped to still further accentuate the _camaraderie_ of the

Censorship, and the good fellowship existing between its officers and

the correspondents.

Grado, though at first sight not much damaged since our visit on the

previous year, had suffered very considerably from the visits of

Austrian aircraft. They were still constantly coming over, in spite

of the apparently adequate defences, and many women and children had

been killed and many more houses demolished.

There was a curious sight in the dining room of the hotel where we

gave the lunch. The proprietor had built a veritable “funk-hole” in a

corner of the room. It was constructed with solid timber, and covered

in with sand-bags in the most approved style.

Inside were a table, chairs, large bed, lamp, food, drink, etc.;

in fact, everything requisite in case a lengthy occupation was

necessary; and there the proprietor and his wife and children would

take refuge whenever the enemy was signalled.

After lunch we were invited to make a trip in one of the new type

of submarine chasers, which are said to be the fastest boats afloat

anywhere, and went for an hour’s run at terrific speed in the

direction of Trieste; in fact, had it not been for a bit of a sea

fog hanging about we should have actually been well in sight of it.

Perhaps it was fortunate for us there was this fog on the water.

Things were a bit quiet in Udine now. Stirring incidents do not occur

every week, and the usual period of comparative inactivity had come

round again whilst further operations were in process of development;

there was but little inducement, therefore, to spend money on petrol

just for the sake of verifying what one knew was happening up at the

lines.

But I had plenty to occupy me in my studio, working on the numerous

sketches the recent doings had provided me with, till something worth

going away for turned up again.

In the interim an event of historic importance occurred.

CHAPTER XX

Declaration of war between Italy and Germany—Effect of declaration

at Udine—Interesting incident—General Cadorna consents to give

me a sitting for a sketch—The curious conditions—Methodic and

business-like—Punctuality and precision—A reminder of old

days—I am received by the Generalissimo—His simple, unaffected

manner—Unconventional chat—“That will please them in England”—My

Gorizia sketch book—The General a capital model—“Hard as nails”—The

sketch finished—Rumour busy again—A visit to Monfalcone—One of

the General’s Aides-de-camp—Start at unearthly hour—Distance to

Monfalcone—Arctic conditions—“In time for lunch”—Town life and

war—Austrian hour for opening fire—Monfalcone—Deserted aspect—The

damage by bombardment—The guns silent for the moment—The ghost of a

town—“That’s only one of our own guns”—A walk to the shipbuilding

yards—The communication trench—The bank of the canal—The pontoon

bridge—The immense red structure—The deserted shipbuilding

establishment—Fantastic forms—Vessels in course of construction—A

strange blight—The hull of the 20,000 ton liner—The gloomy

interior—The view of the Carso and Trieste through a port-hole—Of

soul stirring interest—Hill No. 144—The “daily strafe”—“Just in

time”—Back to Udine “in time for lunch”—Return to the Carso—Attack

on the Austrian positions at Veliki Hribach—New difficulties—Dense

forest—Impenetrable cover—Formidable lines of trenches

captured—Fighting for position at Nova Vas—Dramatic ending—Weather

breaking up—Operations on a big scale perforce suspended—Return

London await events.

CHAPTER XX

On the 28th August, 1916, Italy declared war on Germany. The

declaration had, however, been so long anticipated that, so far as

one was in a position to judge, it made little or no difference in

the already existing state of affairs; since the two nations had to

all intents and purposes been fighting against each other for months,

and at Udine, at any rate, it scarcely aroused any comment outside

the Press.

However, it settled any doubts that might have existed on the

subject, and henceforth the Italians and the Huns were officially

justified in killing each other whenever they got the chance.

Curiously enough, it was through General Cadorna himself that I

learned that war had been declared. It was under somewhat interesting

circumstances, which I will relate.

I had always desired to make a sketch of the Commander-in-Chief of

the Italian Army, and with this idea had asked Colonel Barbarich at

the Censorship if he would try and arrange it for me.

He willingly agreed, but a few days after he told me that he had done

the best he could for me, but that the General had said that for the

moment he was far too occupied, but perhaps he would accede to my

desire a little later. I must therefore have patience.

This looked like a polite way of putting me off, and I accepted it as

such.

Gorizia and other subjects engaged my attention, and I had forgotten

the incident when, to my surprise, one day Colonel Barbarich came

up to me and said that if I still wished to make the sketch of the

General, His Excellency would be pleased to receive me on the

following Monday morning at eleven o’clock precisely, and would give

me a sitting of exactly half-an-hour.

“But,” added Colonel Barbarich, “you must clearly understand it is

only half-an-hour, and also that the General will not talk to you as

he will not be interviewed.”

The “following Monday” was nearly a week ahead, so this was methodic

and business-like indeed.

Of course, in spite of all the conditions attaching to the sitting,

I was delighted to find that my request had not been overlooked, so

I replied jocularly to the Colonel that failing an earthquake or the

ill-timed intervention of an Austrian shrapnel, I would certainly

make it my duty to keep the appointment.

Well, the auspicious day arrived in due course, and so did I in good

time at the Censorship to meet Colonel Barbarich, who was to take

me on to the General, whose quarters were in a palace originally

intended for the Prefect of Udine, only a short distance away.

With the knowledge of the punctuality and precision of the General,

at l’heure militaire, that is to say, as the clock was striking

eleven, we made our way up the grand staircase to the first floor

where the General resided and had his offices.

In a large anti-chamber, with a big model of the Isonzo Front

occupying the whole of the centre, we were received by an

aide-de-camp, who evidently expected us exactly at that moment.

Colonel Barbarich briefly introduced me, then to my surprise left at

once.

The Aide-de-camp took my card into an adjoining apartment, and

returning immediately, said that His Excellency General Cadorna was

waiting for me, and ushered me in.

[Illustration: A grey-haired officer of medium height, whom I

immediately recognised as the Generalissimo, was reading an official

document

_To face page 283_]

Up till then nothing could have been more matter-of-fact and

business-like. It reminded me of the old days when I sought

journalistic interviews with city magnates. But the business-like

impression vanished as soon as I was inside the door.

I found myself in a very large room, well but scantily furnished.

Standing by a table, which was covered with maps, a grey-haired

officer of medium height, whom I immediately recognised as the

Generalissimo, was reading an official document.

He came forward and cordially shook hands with me in the most

informal way. I began to thank him for his courtesy in receiving me,

and was apologising for not being able to speak Italian, when he cut

me short, saying with a laugh:

“I speak but very leetle English,” but “Peut-être vous parlez

Français.” On my telling him I did he exclaimed genially:

“A la bonheur, then we will speak in French. Now what do you want me

to do? I am at your service.”

His simple and unaffected manner put me at once at my ease and

made me instantly feel that this was going to be a “sympathetic”

interview, and not a quasi official reception.

I must mention that I had asked Colonel Barbarich to explain that I

did not want to worry the General, but would be quite content if I

were permitted to make a few jottings in my sketch book of him at

work and some details of his surroundings. This, as I have explained,

was granted, but with the curious proviso that I was not to talk

whilst I was there.

It came, therefore, as a very pleasant surprise to find myself

received in this amicable fashion, and the ice being thus broken, I

said, I should like to sketch him reading a document, as I found him

on entering the room. He willingly acquiesced, and I at once started

my drawing as there was no time to lose.

With the recollection of the stipulation that I was not to open my

mouth during the sitting, and that I was only allowed half-an-hour I

went on working rapidly and in silence.

But I soon found that the General was not inclined to be taciturn,

and in a few moments we were chatting in the most unconventional

manner as if we were old friends. As a matter of fact, I shrewdly

suspected him of interviewing me.

When he learned how long I had been on the Italian Front he was much

interested, and was immediately anxious to know what I thought of his

soldiers. Were they not splendid? He put the question with all the

enthusiasm and affection of a father who is proud of his children.

As may be imagined, I had no difficulty in convincing him that I have

a whole-hearted admiration for the Italian Army after what I had seen

of its wonderful doings at Gorizia and elsewhere.

It was then that he gave me the news of the declaration of war

between Italy and Germany; the morning papers had not published it in

the early editions.

“That will please them in England,” he remarked with a laugh. I

agreed with him that it would, although it had long been expected.

The mention of England reminded me that he had just returned from the

war conference in London, so I asked if he had ever been there before.

“Yes,” he replied with a humorous twinkle in his eye, “forty years

ago; but I do not remember much of it; although my father was

ambassador to England I only lived with him in London for a short

while. It is, of course, much changed since then.”

Whilst thus chatting I was working with feverish haste at my sketch.

I now noticed he was getting a bit impatient at keeping the same

position, so I suggested a few moments rest. He came over to see how

I had got on, and asked if he might look through my sketch book.

It happened to be the one I had used at Gorizia, and the sketches I

had made that day pleased him very much.

“You were fortunate, you were able to see something; I never see

anything,” he remarked quite pathetically.

I felt there was no time to lose if I wanted to get finished in the

half-hour, so hinted at his resuming the pose for a few minutes

longer. He did so at once, and I ventured to tell him in a joking way

that he would make a capital model.

“Well, I am as active now as I ever was,” he replied, taking me

seriously, “and I can ride and walk as well now as I could when I was

a young man.”

This I could well believe, because he looks as “hard as nails,” and

chock full of energy and determination, as the Austrian generals have

discovered to their undoing.

I had now completed my rough sketch sufficiently to be able to finish

it in the studio.

The General expressed his gratification at my having done it so

rapidly, so I suggested another ten minutes some other day to put the

finishing touches.

“Come whenever you like, I shall always be pleased to see you,”

replied His Excellency genially.

Although, as I have said, there was no outward evidence of the

declaration of war making any difference in the conduct of the

campaign, rumours soon began to be persistently busy again, and it

became pretty evident that something big was going to happen on the

Carso before the weather broke up and the autumn rains set in and put

a stop to active operations for some time.

There had been a good deal of talk of operations pending in the

vicinity of Monfalcone, so I got permission to accompany a Staff

Officer who was going there one morning. I had always wanted to see

the place and its much talked of shipbuilding yards, but curiously

enough this was the first opportunity I had had of going there.

My companion was one of General Cadorna’s aides-de-camp, so we went

in one of the big cars belonging to Headquarters. We started at the

usual unearthly hour to which one had become accustomed and which, as

I have pointed out, is delightful in the summer, but is not quite so

fascinating on a raw autumn morning before sunrise.

I was very disappointed when I learned that we should probably be

back in Udine “in time for lunch” unless something untoward occurred

to force us to stay away longer; as I had been looking forward to an

extended run that would last the whole day, but as I was practically

a guest on this occasion I could say nothing. My companion, like so

many Italian officers, spoke French fluently, and turned out to be a

very interesting fellow; and as he had been stationed for some time

at Monfalcone before going on the Staff, he knew the district we were

making for as well as it was possible to know it.

The distance from Udine to Monfalcone is, roughly, the same as from

London to Brighton, and we went via Palmanova, Cervignano, and Ronchi.

It was a bitterly cold morning, with an unmistakable nip of frost

in the air, so although I was muffled up to my ears I was gradually

getting frozen, and my eyes were running like taps. It may be

imagined, therefore, how I was envying my companion his big fur-lined

coat.

I had arrived at the Front in the hottest time of the year, so had

taken no precautions against Arctic conditions. Motoring in Northern

Italy in an open car during the winter months must be a very trying

ordeal indeed, if what I experienced that morning was any criterion

of it.

As we sped along I asked the Aide-de-camp if there was any particular

reason for his starting off so early, and if it was absolutely

necessary for us to be back “in time for lunch.” To my mind the very

thought of it took the interest off the trip and brought it down to

the level of an ordinary pleasure jaunt, which was to me particularly

nauseating.

After all these months at the Front I have not yet been able to

accustom myself to the combination of every-day town life and war,

and I am afraid shall never be able to. Doubtless it is a result of

old time experiences.

My companion treated my query somewhat lightly. “You will be able to

see all there is to see in and round Monfalcone in three hours,” he

replied, “so what is the use therefore of staying longer? Moreover,”

he added seriously, “the Austrian batteries have made a practice

of opening fire every morning at about eleven o’clock, and usually

continue for some hours, so there is the risk of not being able to

come away when one wants to.”

There was, of course, no reply possible, and the more especially as

I am not exactly a glutton for high explosives, as will have been

remarked.

Monfalcone is a nice bright little town, typically Austrian, and

before the war must have been a very busy commercial centre.

When I was there it was absolutely deserted, with the exception of

a few soldiers stationed there. The shops were all closed, grass

was growing in the streets, and it presented the usual desolate

appearance of a place continually under the menace of bombardment.

The damage done to it up till then was really unimportant

considering the reports that had been spread as to its destruction.

Many houses had been demolished, as was to be expected, but I was

surprised to find how relatively undamaged it appeared after the

months of daily gun-fire to which it had been subjected.

We left the car in a convenient courtyard where it was under cover,

and made our way to the Headquarters of the Divisional Commandant,

where, as a matter of etiquette I had to leave my card.

For the moment the guns were silent, and there was a strange quietude

in the streets that struck me as being different to anything I

had noticed anywhere else, except perhaps in Rheims during the

bombardment when there was an occasional lull.

One had the feeling that at any moment something awful might happen.

Even the soldiers one met seemed to me to have a subdued air, and the

drawn expression which is brought about by constant strain on the

nerves.

Instinctively one walked where one’s footsteps made the least

noise, in order to be able to hear in good time the screech of an

approaching shell.

It had turned out a lovely day, and in the brilliant sunshine

Monfalcone should have been a bright and cheerful place, instead

of which it was but the ghost of a town with the shadow of death

continually overhanging it.

The peaceful stillness was not to be of long duration. Silence for

any length of time had been unknown in Monfalcone for many a long day.

Whilst we were having a talk with the officers at Headquarters there

was a loud detonation, apparently just outside the building. To

my annoyance I could not restrain an involuntary start, as it was

totally unexpected.

“That’s only one of our guns,” remarked, with a smile, a Major with

whom I was chatting, and who had noticed the jump I made. “The

Austrians won’t commence for another couple of hours at least,” he

added.

My companion and I then started off to walk down to the shipbuilding

yard, about a mile and a half from the town, and which was, of

course, the principal sight of the place.

One had not gone far when one had some idea how exposed was the

position of Monfalcone. A deep communication trench commenced in the

main street and continued alongside the road the whole way down to

the port—no one was allowed to walk outside it.

The object of this was to prevent any movement being seen from the

Austrian batteries, which were only a comparatively short distance

away, though it must have been no secret to them what was going on in

Monfalcone.

The Italian guns were now getting busy, and the noise was deafening,

but still there was no response from the enemy; it was evidently true

that he worked to time, and it was not yet eleven o’clock.

Although only a mile and a half, the walk seemed longer because one

could see nothing on either side, the walls of the trench being quite

six feet high; but at last we came out on the bank of what looked

like a broad canal. This is part of a waterway constructed to connect

up the port with the railway.

The communication trench now took the form of a sunken pathway

winding along the bank under the trees, and was quite picturesque in

places.

At last we reached the end, and facing us was the Adriatic as calm as

a lake, and away on the horizon one could see the hills that guard

Trieste.

We crossed the mouth of the canal by a pontoon bridge, which I

believe had been abandoned by the Austrians when they evacuated

Monfalcone at the beginning of the war.

A short distance ahead, towering above a conglomeration of long sheds

on the low-lying ground, was an immense red structure, the outlines

of which recalled something familiar. As one got nearer one saw that

it was the unfinished steel hull of a gigantic ocean liner, and that

the red colouring was caused by the accumulation of rust from long

exposure.

We soon reached the entrance to a vast shipbuilding establishment.

There were no bolts or bars to prevent our walking in.

The whole place was deserted, and all around us was a spectacle of

ruin and desolation that was more impressive than actual havoc caused

by bombardment.

In the immense workshops the machinery was rotting away; on the

benches lay the tools of workmen; strange metal forms, portions of

the framework of big ships lay here and there on the sodden ground

like huge red skeletons of ante-deluvian animals.

Many vessels had been in the course of construction, mostly for

the Mercantile fleet of Austria, though there were some destroyers

and war-craft on the stocks as well. Rust, of a weird intensity of

colour. I had never seen before, was over everything like a strange

blight.

Alongside the sheds was the hull of the big liner one had seen in the

distance. A 20,000 ton boat, I was told, which was being built for

the Austrian Lloyd Line.

The wooden slipway and the cradle supports had caught fire and had

been destroyed, and this I was told had caused the keel to break, so

that the hull was now but a derelict mass of steelwork which could

never be floated.

[Illustration: To advance through this jungle called for all the

cool, disciplined courage of the Italian soldier (_see page 293_)

_To face page 298_]

Had it not been for the satisfaction one felt in gazing on the ruins

of a prospective addition to the Mercantile Navy of the enemy, this

leviathan of wasted industry and material would have appeared

quite tragic.

The companion-way used by the workmen was still in position, so we

clambered up into the gloomy interior and had a walk round, our

footsteps echoing mournfully along the cavernous emptiness of the

decks.

Through a port-hole we got a very fine view of the Carso and the

Italian and Austrian positions in between Monfalcone and Duino;

whilst in the distance, some fifteen miles away, one could distinctly

see with the glasses the white buildings of Trieste, so near and yet

so far!

There was evidently a big fight going on at that moment in the

direction of a hill not far away from Monfalcone, known as No. 144,

which had been frequently referred to in the _communiqués_, and you

could see the bursting shells and hear the booming of the guns.

It was a panorama of soul-stirring interest, and one could have spent

hours gazing on it; but time was flying and we had to be thinking of

returning.

I had not attached much credence to the statement that the Austrians

had established a sort of precedent as to time with regard to opening

fire every day, but out of curiosity I glanced at my watch as we

started back.

It may have been a mere coincidence, but it was just on eleven

o’clock. Beyond, however, the dull booming of the guns in the

direction of Hill No. 144, there was no sign yet of artillery

activity anywhere near Monfalcone.

We had crossed the pontoon bridge and were making our way along the

canal bank when there was the report of a gun not very far away in

the enemy’s lines, and the screech of a shell passing over our heads

proved beyond a doubt that the “Daily Strafe” was about to commence.

The shell burst on the outskirts of the town and in the direction in

which we were going. My companion, who was walking on ahead, called

out jocularly that we should be “just in time.”

From now the firing increased every minute, and it seemed to me that

the sole objective of the Austrian gunners was the place where we had

left our car.

We met several groups of soldiers as we went along, and I noticed

that if a shell happened to be coming over just then, the majority of

the men always stopped and crouched down against the protecting wall

of the trench.

This prompted my asking my companion what he considered to be the

best thing to do when under fire. “Take no notice of it,” was his

laconic reply.

In Monfalcone the streets were nearly deserted, though whether in

consequence of the shelling commencing or some other cause, I could

not tell; anyhow, as there was nothing further to see that day we

returned to Udine “in time for lunch.”

A couple of days later I was back again on the Carso. A big attack

on the Austrian positions at Veliki Hribach, near Doberdo, having

suddenly developed.

Difficulties had to be surmounted here which were totally different

to any previously encountered, as the offensive was made through

close-growing woodland.

An important sector of the Carso district to the north of Trieste

consists of wooded country, and directly bars the Italian advance

in that region. The ground in question was artificially planted by

the Austrian Government some years ago under a scheme to reclaim the

Carso and convert it into forest tracts.

Plantations of fir trees were laid out over a large area, and these

are now grown into the woods, which present a very serious obstacle

to the Italians.

Sheltered by the almost impenetrable cover which the dense

growth of immature trees offers, the Austrians had constructed

Torres-Vedras-like series of fortified positions among the trees

along the ridges that intersect the district. In the Veliki Hribach

stretch of woods alone no fewer than eleven formidable lines of

trenches have been captured.

The trees are of too young growth to stop bullets; and hidden in

their trenches the Austrians could sweep the approaches at ground

level, lying low behind abattis and a mass of wire entanglements.

The whole aspect of the country here reminded me strangely of parts

of the West Australian “bush,” with, of course, the exception that

these are fir trees.

Still, there was so much resemblance that it would have been as easy

to lose oneself here in the dense growth as it is in the “bush.”

To advance through this jungle called for all the cool disciplined

courage of the Italian soldier. There was no opportunity for a wild

headlong assault on the Austrian trenches; they had to be virtually

“stalked,” as the cover afforded by the saplings was so illusory as

to give practically no protection at all.

The wood in which I made my sketch had been “blazed” beforehand by a

handful of the most daring spirits among the men; not by “barking”

the trees, which would have taken too long, but by means of whitened

stones dropped on the ground at intervals to indicate the direction

the troops were to follow.

The capture of the Veliki Hribach position proved that the Italian

soldier can be relied on under any circumstances, however trying.

The day following the offensive developed in the direction of Nova

Vas, about a mile and a half east of Doberdo, on the heights of San

Grado di Merna, and near Lokvica, with continued success for the

Italians.

The fighting for the position at Nova Vas on September 15th in

particular ended in so dramatic a fashion that it will long be

remembered by all who witnessed it.

After a furious preparatory bombardment for hours by the Italian

heavy guns, to which the Austrians replied vigorously, there was a

sudden cessation of the Italian fire.

The crisis had come: the infantry were to attack. But while waiting

word from elsewhere, there was a brief pause.

Next, suddenly, to the general amazement, within six minutes of the

guns ceasing, one saw hundreds of men abandoning the Austrian front

trenches. They held up their hands and waved handkerchiefs wildly in

token of surrender.

Out they poured, like driven rats stampeded by terriers from a barn.

They came racing across the stretch of “No man’s land” between the

opposing trenches, straight for the Italians, taking their chance

amidst the Austrian shells, still falling briskly.

The spectacular effect of the grey-coated figures, without arms

or accoutrements, running towards them, hands up, and frantically

shouting “Kamerad! Kamerad!” was startlingly dramatic.

The Italian soldiers were so amazed at the sight that, regardless of

the risk of exposing themselves, they showed themselves over their

own parapets and stood gazing at what was taking place.

In all, 2,117 Austrian prisoners mere made that day, including 71

officers.

Torrential rain set in during the night, and the captured trenches

were found to be in so complete a state of ruin and afforded so

little shelter that the troops were brought back to their original

positions.

After this offensive the weather showed unmistakable signs of

breaking up; bitterly cold winds with heavy rains every day put

a stop to all military movements of any importance. Although it

is certain that no weather, however bad, will entirely arrest the

activity of General Cadorna for even 24 hours, it was apparent,

however, that the resumption of operations on anything like a big

scale would have to be suspended _bon gré mal gré_ till the early

spring.

To spend the winter in Udine, therefore, presented no particular

attraction for me, so I decided to return to London and there await

events, in readiness to go back if necessary at a moment’s notice.

It was certainly with regret that I was leaving the Italian Front,

for I had spent many glorious days with King Victor Emmanuel’s heroic

soldiers, but my regret was softened by the thought that I should

soon be returning to assist at the final victory.

INDEX

ADIGE, RIVER, 99, 100, 151

Ala, 100

Allessi, Rino, 200

_Alpini, the_, 41, 42, 43, 45, 49, 75, 85, 86, 105, 121-126, 138,

140, 184, 185

Altopiano, Tableland of, 157, 165

Aosta, Duke of, 238

Aquileia, 144, 145

Arci, Signor, 196

Arsiero, 152, 156, 157, 159, 163, 184

Asiago, 152, 168, 169, 178

Astico, valley of, 157

Austrians, the;

withdraw across the Indrio, 37, 38;

defence at Monte Nero, 40-43;

advance in the Trentino, 151-156;

advance in the Asiago region, 163;

retire from Gorizia, 209-234;

characteristics of, 262, 263, 269

Avostaunis, 121

BACCI, BACCIO, 64, 240, 246, 249

Baldassarre, Signor, 63

Barbarich, Colonel, 153, 276-283

Barzilai, Signor, 63

Barzini, Luigi, 27, 29, 64, 210, 217, 223, 232

Basset, Serge, 65

Bauderesque, M., 65

Beak, Vice-Consul, 20

Beaumont, M., 145

Bedolo, Gino Calza, 65, 66, 104, 119

Belcredi, M., 68

Belluno, 15, 103, 115, 117

Belvedere, 145

Benedetti, M., 163

Berchtold, Count, 3

_Bersaglieri, the_, 75, 231-238

Berthod, Dr., 33, 132

Bissolati, Leonida, 196, 203-222

Bitetti, M., 240-246

Bologna, 15

Bormio, 79, 80, 82, 92

Boulogne, 46

Brazzano, 133, 134

Brenta, River, 151

Brescia, 15, 64, 67, 68, 71, 72, 78, 97

Brioni, Monte, 78

CADORNA, GENERAL, 15, 37, 44, 97, 98, 135, 137, 149, 150, 152, 158,

163, 179, 183, 189, 237, 238, 255, 256, 281, 282, 283, 285, 295

Cadorre, 135

Cafarelli, General, 58, 132

Cantalupo Roberto, 189

Capello, General, 190, 196, 203-205

Caporetto, 37, 133, 136, 139

Caprili, 109

_Carabinieri, the_, 166, 175, 230, 231

Carnia, 135

Carniola, 140

Carrère, Jean, 64, 68

Carso, Operations on the, 134, 141, 143, 196, 196, 223, 239, 240,

255-266, 270, 271, 273, 275, 285, 291, 292

Castalleto, the, 184

Censorship, the Italian, 15, 66, 67, 71, 72, 126, 153, 154, 155, 185,

209, 276, 282

Cenzio, M., 157

Cervignano, 37, 133, 144, 286

Chamonix, 81

Chizzola, 101

Cimone, Mont., 157, 184, 185

Croda, Rosso, 116

Civiedale, 133, 143

Clericetti, Colonel, 156, 199, 209

Col dei Bos, 184

Col di Lana, 105, 106, 107, 108, 117

Colfreddo, 116

Cortina d’Ampezzo, 105, 115, 116, 117

Cormons, 37, 38, 39, 133, 134, 135, 136, 191, 200

Corrada, Monte, 44

Cosich, Monte, 259, 261

Cox, Harold 239

Cristallo, Monte, 103, 116, 197

Cure, Capel, 63

_DAILY CHRONICLE, THE_, 65

_Daily Mail, The_, 65

_Daily News, The_, 65

_Daily Telegraph, The_, 65

Desenzano, 78

Doberdo, 258, 260, 262, 263, 264, 266, 292, 293

Dolomites, The, 104, 115

Donohoe, Martin, 65

Duino, 291

ELIA, GENERAL, 16

FALZAREGO PASS, 105

Fiera di Primero, 103

Florence, 59, 60, 63

Fogazzaro, Antonio, 159

Fogliano, 258, 259

Folkestone, 4

Forcola, The, 81, 85, 86, 88, 89, 90, 92

Fraccaroli, Arnaldo, 64, 243, 246

Freikoffel, The, 118, 121

Friuli, Plain of, 20, 38, 132, 134

GALLIO, FOREST OF, 165, 166

Garda, Lake of, 73, 76, 77, 78, 151

Garibaldi, Peppino, 22

Gemona, 118, 126, 127, 131

Germany, Italy declares war on, 281

Gobi Desert, The, 270

Gorizia, Italian attack on, 44, 134, 150, 154, 190, 200, 203;

capture of bridgehead, 199, 200;

capture of city, 209-234, 237-240;

the city after capture, 242-250, 255, 256, 270, 281, 284, 285

Gradisca, 44, 142, 144, 240, 256

Grado, 144, 145, 276

Grafenberg, 215, 216, 241, 242, 249

Giudicaria, Valley of, 73

IDRO, LAKE, 79

_Illustrated London News, The_, 1, 65

Indrio, River, 37

Ingram, Charles, 3, 4, 152

Interrotto, Monte, 167, 171

Isonzo, River, Operations on the, 42, 72, 74, 131-146, 186, 210-215,

250, 251, 257, 270, 282

ITALIAN ARMY, THE, impressions of, 38, 39, 50, 51, 76, 122, 123, 124,

258, 259, 269;

crosses the Indrio, 37;

attacks Monte Nero, 40-43;

storms Monte Cristallo, 116;

counter-offensive in the Trentino, 183;

begins attack on Gorizia, 189-192, 195;

captures bridge-head, 199-205;

captures city, 209-234

Italy, War Fever in, 3, 4;

declares war on Austria, 9;

declares war on Germany, 281, 284

JEFFRIES, J. M. N., 65, 119

KUK, MONTE, 134

LAMB, COLONEL, 54

Livinallongo Pass, 105

Lokvica, 293

London, Jack, 270

Lucinico, 210, 211

MACCHIO, BARON VON, 9

McClure, W. K., 65, 68

Marazzi, General, 200, 201, 214, 233

Marmolada, Monte, 104

Massey, W. T., 63

Medea, 37

Miceli, Giovanni, 64, 201

Milan, 79, 153

Molinari, Aldo, 64, 67, 119

Monfalcone, 44, 133, 189, 286-292

Montecroce, 118

_Morning Post, The_, 65

Mossa, 200, 201

NATHAN, LIEUTENANT, 136

Nero, Monte, 40, 41, 42, 43, 137, 138

Northcliffe, Lord, 239

Novara, 57

Nova Vas, 260, 293, 294

OPPACHIASELLA, 261, 271

Oyetti, Ugo, 216

PADUA, 15

Pal Grande, 118-125

Palmanova, 141, 142, 271, 286

Pal Piccolo, 118, 119

Paluzza, 118

Paris, 4, 6

Pavia, Mayor of, 237

Pilcante, 101

Piva, Gino, 64, 189

Plava, 44, 137

Podgora, 134, 197, 212, 216, 217, 241

Porro, General, 66

Pozzachio, Fort, 99

Prade, Georges, 65

QUARIN, MONT, 134

Quirino, Mont, 37

RANCIO, 123

Rateau, Jules, 65, 79, 86, 88, 92

Redipuglia, 259

Rheims, 288

Riva, 76, 77

Romans, 271

Rome, 9, 10, 11

Rombon, Monte, 140, 141

Ronchi, 286

Roveretto, 99, 101, 151

SABOTTINA, MONTE, 134, 190, 191, 192, 196, 197

Sagrado, 44, 240, 249, 256, 257, 258, 265, 271

San Daniele, Monte, 219

San Floriano, 204

San Gabriele, Mont, 44, 197, 211, 215, 219

San Grado di Merna, 293

San Michele, Mont, 143, 190, 197, 239, 240, 249, 250, 256, 273

San Pietro, 44

Santa Luccia, 44

San Marco, 44

Santa Maria, 44

Santo, Monte, 134, 211, 215, 219

Sdraussina, 249, 250

Savogna, 141, 249

Schluderbach, Valley of, 116, 117

Smith, Ernest, 65

Stelvio Pass, The, 73, 79, 81

Stivo, Hills, The, 101

Subida, 135

Svinjak, 140

TERNOVA, 133, 134

Terzo, 37, 133

Timau, Monte, 118, 121

_Times, The_, 65

Tofana, 116

Tolmezzo, 118

Tolmino, 38, 40, 136, 137, 141

Trent, 98

Trentino, the Operations in, 97, 114, 135, 151, 155, 183, 184, 189

Trieste, 255, 269, 290, 292

Turin, 7

Tyrol, Austrian, The, 89

UDINE, 15, 20, 21-33, 37, 39, 42, 43, 49, 50-59, 131, 133, 141, 146,

153, 154, 156, 186, 186, 187, 188, 190, 199, 205, 238, 242,

251, 266, 276, 277, 281, 282, 282, 286, 292

VAL SUGANA, 151

Valtellino, Valley of, 79

Vaucher, Robert, 65, 271, 276

Veliki, Hribach, 292, 293

Venadoro, 115, 117

Venetia, 114

Venice, 15, 16, 17, 23

Venzone, 118

Verona, 15, 72, 97, 98

Vicenza, 15, 103, 155, 156

Victor Emmanuel, King, 49, 50, 295

Vipulzano, 190, 197, 202

Vitry-le-Francois, 142

WARREN, WHITNEY, 239

Wells, H. G., 239

Weillschott, Captain, 153

Women carrying barbed wire, 118

ZEBIO, MONTE, 167

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been

corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within

the text and consultation of external sources.

Some hyphens in words have been silently removed, some added, when

a predominant preference was found in the original book. Some

missing — (mdash) separators have been inserted in the Table of

Contents.

Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,

and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.

Table of Contents:

Pg xii: ‘Descenzano’ replaced by ‘Desenzano’.

Pg xiii: ‘305mn. guns’ replaced by ‘305mm. guns’.

Pg xvi: ‘The battlefiield’ replaced by ‘The battlefield’.

Pg xviii: ‘Francesco Guiseppi’ replaced by ‘Francesco Guiseppe’.

Pg xxiv: ‘298’ replaced by ‘270’.

Main text:

Pg 17: ‘of Venetain life’ replaced by ‘of Venetian life’.

Pg 74: ‘unbelieveable that’ replaced by ‘unbelievable that’.

Pg 80: ‘the aclivity was’ replaced by the ‘acclivity was’.

Pg 89: ‘Brobdignagian cliff’ replaced by ‘Brobdingnagian cliff’.

Pg 93: ‘Asti Spamanti’ replaced by ‘Asti Spumante’.

Pg 116: ‘Falzarrego Pass’ replaced by ‘Falzarego Pass’.

Pg 120: ‘incessant fusilade’ replaced by ‘incessant fusillade’.

Pg 125: ‘constant fusilade’ replaced by ‘constant fusillade’.

Pg 126: ‘military tattoo’ replaced by ‘military tatoo’.

Pg 138: ‘retrogade direction’ replaced by ‘retrograde direction’.

Pg 139: ‘a spec of grit’ replaced by ‘a speck of grit’.

Pg 140: ‘Rombon and Svenjak’ replaced by ‘Rombon and Svinjak’.

Pg 149: ‘to develope it’ replaced by ‘to develop it’.

Pg 155: ‘the newpsaper line’ replaced by ‘the newspaper line’.

Pg 157: ‘of the Altepiano’ replaced by ‘of the Altopiano’.

Pg 157: ‘about if from’ replaced by ‘about it from’.

Pg 165: ‘the Altepiano beyond’ replaced by ‘the Altopiano beyond’.

Pg 207: ‘Francesco Guiseppi’ replaced by ‘Francesco Guiseppe’.

Pg 222: ‘Signor Bisolati’ replaced by ‘Signor Bissolati’.

Pg 233: ‘advisd use not’ replaced by ‘advised us not’.

Pg 261: ‘Monte Cossich’ replaced by ‘Monte Cosich’.

Index:

Pg 297: ‘Altepiano, Tableland’ replaced by ‘Altopiano, Tableland’.

Pg 297: ‘Bersagheri, the’ replaced by ‘Bersaglieri, the’.

Pg 298: ‘Descenzano’ replaced by ‘Desenzano’.

Pg 299: ‘Monte Cristello’ replaced by ‘Monte Cristallo’.

Pg 300: ‘Svenjak’ replaced by ‘Svinjak’.

Six months on the Italian front · 第 23 / 23 章