Late in the afternoon, we completed the passage across the mountain,

and with thankful hearts, again trod the level land. We entered here

a fine rich valley or plain, of about half a mile in width, between

two ranges of the mountain. It was profusely covered with willow,

and through the middle of it, ran a rapid and turbulent mountain

torrent, called Mallade river.[124] It contains a great abundance

of beaver, their recent dams being seen in great numbers, and in

the night, when all was quiet, we could hear the playful animals at

their gambols, diving from the shore into the water, and striking

the surface with their broad tails. The sound, altogether, was

not unlike that of children at play, and the animated description

of a somewhat similar scene, in the "Mohicans," recurred to my

recollection, where the single-minded Gamut is contemplating with

feelings of strong reprobation, the wayward freaks of what he

supposes to be a bevy of young savages.

[124] According to Wyeth's account, the expedition retraced their

steps to the forks of the river, then followed the south branch,

passing over the mountains which form the boundary between Custer

and Blaine counties, Idaho, and emerging on Trail Creek, the

affluent of the Malade, which joins the main stream at Ketchum, the

present terminus of the Wood River branch of the Oregon Short Line

railway.--ED.

14th.--We travelled down the Mallade river,[125] and followed the

Indian trail through the valley. The path frequently passed along

near the base of the mountain, and then wound its way a considerable

distance up it, to avoid rocky impediments and thick tangled bushes

below, so that we had some climbing to do; but the difficulties and

perils of the route of yesterday are still so fresh in our memory,

that all minor things are disregarded, at least by _us_. Our poor

horses, however, no doubt feel differently, as they are very tired

and foot sore.

[125] Malade (or Wood) River is a northern tributary of Lewis in

Blaine County, Idaho. The mining town of Hailey is upon its banks.

It was named Rivière des Malades (Sick Men's River) by Alexander

Ross, who trapped upon it in 1824, and whose men fell ill from

eating beaver that had fed upon a poisonous root. See Ross, _Fur

Hunters_ (London, 1855), ii, pp. 114-116.--ED.

The next day we came to a close and almost impenetrable thicket of

tangled willows, through which we had great difficulty in urging

our horses. The breadth of the thicket was {124} about one hundred

yards, and a full hour was consumed in passing through it. We then

entered immediately a rich and beautiful valley, covered profusely

with a splendid blue Lupin. The mountains on either side are of much

less height than those we have passed, and entirely bare, the pine

trees which generally cover and ornament them, having disappeared.

During the morning, we ascended and descended several high and stony

hills, and early in the afternoon, emerged upon a large, level

prairie, and struck a branch of Mallade river, where we encamped.

While we were unloading, we observed a number of Indians ahead, and

not being aware of their character, stood with our horses saddled,

while Captain W. and Richardson rode out to reconnoitre. In about

half an hour they returned, and informed us that they were _Snakes_

who were returning from the fisheries, and travelling towards the

buffalo on the "big river," (Shoshoné.) We therefore unsaddled our

poor jaded horses and turned them out to feed upon the luxuriant

pasture around the camp, while we, almost equally jaded, threw

ourselves down in our blankets to seek a little repose and quiet

after the toils and fatigues of a long day's march.

Soon after we encamped, the Snake chief and two of his young men

visited us. We formed a circle around our lodge and smoked the

pipe of peace with them, after which we made them each a present

of a yard of scarlet cloth for leggings, some balls and powder, a

knife, and a looking glass. Captain W. then asked them a number

of questions, through an interpreter, relative to the route, the

fishery, &c. &c.,--and finally bought of them a small quantity of

dried salmon, and a little fermented kamas or _quamash_ root. The

Indians remained with us until dark, and then left us quietly

for their own camp. There are two lodges of them, in all about

twenty persons, but none of them presumed to come near us, with the

exception of the three men, two {125} squaws, and a few children.

The chief is a man about fifty years of age, tall, and dignified

looking, with large, strong aqualine features. His manners were

cordial and agreeable, perhaps remarkably so, and he exhibited

very little of that stoical indifference to surrounding objects

which is so characteristic of an Indian. His dress consisted of

plain leggings of deer skin, fringed at the sides, unembroidered

moccasins, and a _marro_ or waist-covering of antelope skin dressed

without removing the hair. The upper part of his person was simply

covered with a small blanket, and his ears were profusely ornamented

with brass rings and beads. The men and squaws who accompanied him,

were entirely naked, except that the latter had marros of deer skin

covering the loins.

The next morning we steered west across the wide prairie, crossing

within every mile or two, a branch of the tortuous Mallade, near

each of which good pasture was seen; but on the main prairie

scarcely a blade of grass could be found, it having lately been

fired by the Indians to improve the crops of next year. We have seen

to-day some lava and basalt again on the sides of the hills, and on

the mounds in the plain, but the level land was entirely free from

it.

At noon on the 17th, we passed a deserted Indian camp, probably of

the same people whose trail we have been following. There were many

evident signs of the Indians having but recently left it, among

which was that of several white wolves lurking around in the hope of

finding remnants of meat, but, as a Scotchman would say, "I doubt

they were mistaken," for meat is scarce here, and the frugal Indians

rarely leave enough behind them to excite even the famished stomach

of the lank and hungry wolf. The encampment here has been but a

temporary one, occupying a little valley densely overgrown with

willows, the tops of which have been bent over, and tied so as to

form a sort of lodge; over these, they have probably stretched deer

{126} skins or blankets, to exclude the rays of the sun. Of these

lodges there are about forty in the valley, so that the party must

have been a large one.

In the afternoon we arrived at "_Kamas prairie_," so called from

a vast abundance of this esculent root which it produces, (the

_Kamassa esculenta_, of Nuttall.)[126] The plain is a beautiful

level one of about a mile over, hemmed in by low, rocky hills, and

in spring, the pretty blue flowers of the Kamas are said to give

it a peculiar, and very pleasing appearance. At this season, the

flowers do not appear, the vegetable being indicated only by little

dry stems which protrude all over the ground among the grass.

[126] After crossing the Malade, the expedition moved along one of

its several western branches until reaching Camas Prairie, in Elmore

County.

Camas (quamash) is a bulbous root much used for food by the Indians

of the Columbia. Its Shoshoni name is passheco. For further

description consult Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and

Clark Expedition_, iii, p. 78.--ED.

We encamped here, near a small branch of Mallade river; and soon

after, all hands took their kettles and scattered over the prairie

to dig a mess of kamas. We were, of course, eminently successful,

and were furnished thereby with an excellent and wholesome meal.

When boiled, this little root is palatable, and somewhat resembles

the taste of the common potato; the Indian mode of preparing it,

is, however, the best--that of fermenting it in pits under ground,

into which hot stones have been placed. It is suffered to remain

in these pits for several days; and when removed, is of a dark

brown color, about the consistence of softened glue, and sweet,

like molasses. It is then often made into large cakes, by being

mashed, and pressed together, and slightly baked in the sun. There

are several other kinds of bulbous and tuberous roots, growing in

these plains, which are eaten by the Indians, after undergoing a

certain process of fermentation or baking. Among these, that which

is most esteemed, is the white or biscuit root, the _Racine blanc_

of the Canadians,--(_Eulophus ambiguus_, of Nuttall.) This is dried,

pulverized with stones, and after being moistened with water, is

made into cakes and baked in the sun. The taste is not unlike that

of a stale {127} biscuit, and to a hungry man, or one who has long

subsisted without vegetables of any kind, is rather palatable.[127]

[127] This root is probably the one usually spoken of by the

French-Canadian trappers as "white-apple" (_pomme blanche_),

or "swan-apple," and well known to scientists as _Psoralea

esculenta_.--ED.

On the morning of the 18th, we commenced ascending the hills again,

and had a laborious and toilsome day's march. One of our poor

wearied horses gave up, and stopped; kicking, and cuffing, and

beating had no effect to make him move; the poor animal laid himself

down with his load, and after this was detached and shifted to the

back of another, we left him where he fell, to recruit, and fall

into the hands of the Indians, or die among the arid hills. This

is the first horse we have lost in this manner; but we have great

fears that many others will soon fail, as their riders and drivers

are compelled to use the whip constantly, to make them walk at the

slowest gait. We comfort ourselves, however, by supposing that we

have now nearly passed the most rugged country on the route, and

hope, before many days, to reach the valley of the Shoshoné, where

the country will be level, and the pasture good. We are anxious,

also, to fall in with the Snake Indians, in order to get a supply of

salmon, as we have been living for several days on a short allowance

of wretched, dry meat, and this poor pittance is now almost

exhausted.

_19th._--This morning was cold, the thermometer stood at 28°, and

a thick skim of ice was in the camp kettles at sunrise. Another

hard day's travel over the hills, during which we lost two of our

largest and stoutest horses. Towards evening, we descended to a

fine large plain, and struck _Boisée_, or Big Wood river, on the

borders of which we encamped.[128] This is a beautiful stream, about

one hundred yards in width, clear as crystal, and, in some parts,

probably twenty feet deep. It is literally _crowded_ with salmon,

which are springing from the water almost constantly. Our mouths are

watering most abundantly for some of them, but we are not provided

with suitable implements for {128} taking any, and must therefore

depend for a supply on the Indians, whom we hope soon to meet.

We found, in the mountain passes, to-day, a considerable quantity

of a small fruit called the choke-cherry, a species of prunus,

growing on low bushes. When ripe, they are tolerable eating,

somewhat astringent, however, producing upon the mouth the same

effect, though in a less degree, as the unripe persimmon. They are

now generally green, or we should feast luxuriantly upon them,

and render more tolerable our miserable provision. We have seen,

also, large patches of service bushes, but no fruit. It seems to

have failed this year, although ordinarily so abundant that it

constitutes a large portion of the vegetable food of both Indians

and white trappers who visit these regions.

[128] Boise River is an important eastern affluent of Lewis, rising

in the mountains of Blaine County, through which Townsend had just

passed; it flows nearly west for about a hundred miles. Boise,

the capital of Idaho, is upon its banks. Of the two forks which

unite to form the main stream, Wyeth's expedition encountered the

southern.--ED.

{129} CHAPTER VIII

A substitute for game, and a luxurious breakfast--Expectations

of a repast, and a disappointment--Visit of a Snake

chief--his abhorrence of horse meat--A band of Snake

Indians--their chief--Trade with Indians for salmon--Mr.

Ashworth's adventure--An Indian horse-thief--Visit to the

Snake camp--its filthiness--A Banneck camp--Supercilious

conduct of the Indians--Arrival at Snake river--Equipment of

a trapping party--Indian mode of catching salmon--Loss of a

favorite horse--Powder river--Cut rocks--Recovery of the lost

trail--Grand Ronde--Captain Bonneville--his fondness for a

roving life--Kayouse and Nez Percé Indians--their appearance--An

Indian Beauty--Blue mountains--A feline visit.

_August 20th._--At about daylight this morning, having charge of

the last guard of the night, I observed a beautiful, sleek little

_colt_, of about four months old, trot into the camp, whinnying with

great apparent pleasure, and dancing and curvetting gaily amongst

our sober and sedate band. I had no doubt that he had strayed from

Indians, who were probably in the neighborhood; but as here, every

animal that comes near us is fair game, and as we were hungry, not

having eaten any thing of consequence since yesterday morning, I

thought the little stranger would make a good breakfast for us.

Concluding, however, that it would be best to act advisedly in the

matter, I put my head into Captain W.'s tent, and telling him the

news, made the proposition which had occurred to me. The captain's

reply was encouraging enough,--"Down with him, if you please, Mr.

T., it is the Lord's doing; let us have him for breakfast." In five

minutes afterwards, a bullet sealed the fate of the unfortunate

visitor, and my men were set to work making fires, and rummaging

{130} out the long-neglected stew-pans, while I engaged myself in

flaying the little animal, and cutting up his body in readiness for

the pots.

When the camp was aroused, about an hour after, the savory steam

of the cookery was rising and saluting the nostrils of our hungry

people with its fragrance, who, rubbing their hands with delight,

sat themselves down upon the ground, waiting with what patience they

might, for the unexpected repast which was preparing for them.

It was to me almost equal to a good breakfast, to witness the

pleasure and satisfaction which I had been the means of diffusing

through the camp.

The repast was ready at length, and we did full justice to it;

every man ate until he was filled, and all pronounced it one of the

most delicious meals they had ever assisted in demolishing. When

our breakfast was concluded, but little of the colt remained; that

little was, however, carefully packed up, and deposited on one of

the horses, to furnish, at least, a portion of another meal.

The route, this morning, lay along Boisée. For an hour, the

travelling was toilsome and difficult, the Indian trail, leading

along the high bank of the river, steep and rocky, making our

progress very slow and laborious. We then came to a wide plain,

interrupted only by occasional high banks of earth, some of them of

considerable extent, across which ran the path. Towards mid-day, we

lost sight of these banks, the whole country appearing level, with

the exception of some distant hills in the south-west, which we

suppose indicate the vicinity of some part of Snake river.

We have all been disappointed in the distance to this river, and the

length of time required to reach it. Not a man in our camp has ever

travelled this route before, and all we have known about it has been

the general course.

{131} In the afternoon, we observed a number of Indians on the

opposite side of the river, engaged in fishing for salmon. Captain

W. and two men immediately crossed over to them, carrying with

them a few small articles to exchange for fish. We congratulated

ourselves upon our good fortune in seeing these Indians, and were

anticipating a plentiful meal, when Captain W. and his companions

returned, bringing only _three_ small salmon. The Indians had been

unsuccessful in fishing, not having caught enough for themselves,

and even the offer of exorbitant sums was not sufficient to induce

them to part with more.

In the afternoon, a grouse and a beaver were killed, which, added

to the remains of the colt, and our three little salmon, made us a

tolerable supper. While we were eating, we were visited by a Snake

chief, a large and powerful man, of a peculiarly dignified aspect

and manner. He was naked, with the exception of a small blanket

which covered his shoulders, and descended to the middle of the

back, being fastened around the neck with a silver skewer. As it

was pudding time with us, our visitor was of course invited to sit

and eat; and he, nothing loath, deposited himself at once upon

the ground, and made a remarkably vigorous assault upon the mixed

contents of the dish. He had not eaten long, however, before we

perceived a sudden and inexplicable change in his countenance, which

was instantly followed by a violent ejectment of a huge mouthful of

our luxurious fare. The man rose slowly, and with great dignity,

to his feet, and pronouncing the single word "_shekum_," (horse,)

in a tone of mingled anger and disgust, stalked rapidly out of the

camp, not even wishing us a good evening. It struck me as a singular

instance of accuracy and discrimination in the organs of taste. We

had been eating of the multifarious compound without being able to

recognize, by the taste, a single ingredient which it contained; a

stranger came amongst us, who did not know, when he {132} commenced

eating, that the dish was formed of more than one item, and yet in

less than five minutes he discovered one of the very least of its

component parts.

It would seem from this circumstance that the Indians, or it may

be the particular tribe to which this man belongs, are opposed to

the eating of horse flesh, and yet, the natural supposition would

be, that in the gameless country inhabited by them they would often

be reduced to such shifts, and thus readily conquer any natural

reluctance which they might feel to partake of such food. I did not

think until after he left us, that if the chief knew how the horse

meat he so much detested was procured, and where, he might probably

have expressed even more indignation, for it is not at all unlikely

that the colt had strayed from his own band.

_21st._--The timber along the river banks is plentiful, and often

attains a large size. It is chiefly of the species called balsam

poplar, (_Populus balsamifera_.)

Towards noon to-day, we observed ahead several groups of Indians,

perhaps twenty in each, and on the appearance of our cavalcade,

they manifested their joy at seeing us, by the most extravagant and

grotesque gestures, dancing and capering most ludicrously. Every

individual of them was perfectly naked, with the exception of a

small thong around the waist, to which was attached a square piece

of flannel, skin, or canvass, depending half way to the knees. Their

stature was rather below the middle height, but they were strongly

built and very muscular. Each man carried his salmon spear, and

these, with the knives stuck in their girdles, appeared to be their

only weapons, not one of them having a gun. As we neared them, the

first group ran towards us, crying "Shoshoné, Shoshoné," and caused

some delay by their eagerness to grasp our hands and examine our

garments. After one group had become satisfied with fingering {133}

us, we rode on and suffered the same process by the next, and so

on until we had passed the whole, every Indian crying with a loud

voice, "_Tabiboo sant, tabiboo sant!_" (white man is good, white man

is good.)

In a short time the chief joined us, and our party stopped for

an hour, and had a "talk" with him. He told us, in answer to our

questions, that his people had fish, and would give them for our

goods if we would sleep one night near their camp, and smoke with

them. No trade, of consequence, can ever be effected with Indians,

unless the pipe be first smoked, and the matter calmly and seriously

deliberated upon. An Indian chief would think his dignity seriously

compromised if he were expected to do _any thing_ in a hurry, much

less so serious a matter as a salmon or beaver trade; and if we had

refused his offered terms, he would probably have allowed us to

pass on, and denied himself the darling rings, bells, and paint,

rather than infringe a custom so long religiously practised by his

people. We were therefore inclined to humor our Snake friend, and

accordingly came to a halt, on the bank of the river.

The chief and several of his favored young braves sat with us on the

bank, and we smoked with them, the other Indians forming a large

circle around.

The chief is a man rather above the ordinary height, with a fine,

noble countenance, and remarkably large, prominent eyes. His person,

instead of being naked, as is usual, is clothed in a robe made of

the skin of the mountain sheep; a broad band made of large blue

beads, is fastened to the top of his head, and hangs over on his

cheeks, and around his neck is suspended the foot of a huge grizzly

bear. The possession of this uncouth ornament is considered among

them, a great honor, since none but those whose prowess has enabled

them to kill the animal, are allowed to wear it, and with their

weak and inefficient weapons, {134} the destruction of so fierce

and terrible a brute, is a feat that may well entitle them to some

distinction.

We remained two hours at the spot where we halted, and then passed

on about four miles, accompanied by the chief and his people, to

their camp, where we pitched our tents for the night. In a short

time the Indians came to us in great numbers, with bundles of dried

salmon in their arms, and a few recent ones. We commenced our

trading immediately, giving them in exchange, fish-hooks, beads,

knives, paint, &c., and before evening, had procured sufficient

provision for the consumption of our party until we arrive at the

falls of Snake river, where we are told we shall meet the Bannecks,

from whom we can doubtless trade a supply, which will serve us until

we reach Walla-walla.

While we were pursuing our trade, Richardson and Mr. Ashworth rode

into the camp, and I observed by the countenance of the latter, that

something unusual had occurred. I felt very certain that no ordinary

matter would be capable of ruffling this calm, intrepid, and almost

fool-hardy young man; so it was with no little interest that I drew

near, to listen to the tale which he told Captain W. with a face

flushed with unusual anger, while his whole person seemed to swell

with pride and disdain.

He said that while riding about five miles behind the party, (not

being able to keep up with it on account of his having a worn out

horse,) he was attacked by about fifty of the Indians whom we passed

earlier in the day, dragged forcibly from his horse and thrown upon

the ground. Here, some held their knives to his throat to prevent

his rising, and others robbed him of his saddle bags, and all that

they contained. While he was yet in this unpleasant situation,

Richardson came suddenly upon them, and the cowardly Indians

released their captive instantly, throwing the saddle bags and every

thing else upon the ground and flying like frightened antelopes over

the plain. The only real damage that Mr. Ashworth sustained, was

the total loss of his {135} saddle bags, which were cut to pieces

by the knives of the Indians, in order to abstract the contents.

These, however, we think he deserves to lose, inasmuch, as with all

our persuasion, we have never been able to induce him to carry a gun

since we left the country infested by the Blackfeet; and to-day,

the very show of such a weapon would undoubtedly have prevented the

attack of which he complains.

Richardson gives an amusing account of the deportment of our young

English friend while he was lying under the knives of his captors.

The heavy whip of buffalo hide, which was his only weapon, was

applied with great energy to the naked backs and shoulders of the

Indians, who winced and stamped under the infliction, but still

feared to use their knives, except to prevent his rising. Richardson

says, that until he approached closely, the blows were descending in

rapid succession, and our hunter was in some danger of losing his

characteristic dignity in his efforts to repress a loud and hearty

laugh at the extreme ludicrousness of the whole scene.

Captain W., when the circumstances of the assault were stated to

him, gave an immediate order for the suspension of business, and

calling the chief to him, told him seriously, that if an attempt

were again made to interrupt any of his party on their march, the

offenders should be tied to a tree and whipped severely. He enforced

his language by gestures so expressive that none could misunderstand

him, and he was answered by a low groan from the Indians present,

and a submissive bowing of their heads. The chief appeared very much

troubled, and harangued his people for considerable time on the

subject, repeating what the captain had said, with some additional

remarks of his own, implying that even a worse fate than whipping

would be the lot of future delinquents.

_22d._--Last night during the second guard, while on my walk {136}

around the camp, I observed one of my men squatted on the ground,

intently surveying some object which appeared to be moving among

the horses. At his request, I stooped also, and could distinctly

perceive something near us which was certainly not a horse, and yet

was as certainly a living object. I supposed it to be either a bear

or a wolf, and at the earnest solicitation of the man, I gave the

word "fire." The trigger was instantly pulled, the sparks flew from

the flint, but the rifle was not exploded. At the sound, an Indian

sprang from the grass where he had been crouching, and darted away

towards the Snake camp. His object certainly was to appropriate one

of our horses, and very fortunate for him was it that the gun missed

fire, for the man was an unerring marksman. This little warning will

probably check other similar attempts by these people.

Early in the morning I strolled into the Snake camp. It consists

of about thirty lodges or wigwams, formed generally of branches of

trees tied together in a conic summit, and covered with buffalo,

deer, or elk skins. Men and little children were lolling about

the ground all around the wigwams, together with a heterogeneous

assemblance of dogs, cats, some tamed prairie wolves, and other

"_varmints_." The dogs growled and snapped when I approached, the

wolves cowered and looked cross, and the cats ran away and hid

themselves in dark corners. They had not been accustomed to the face

of a white man, and all the quadrupeds seemed to regard me as some

monstrous production, more to be feared than loved or courted. This

dislike, however, did not appear to extend to the bipeds, for many

of every age and sex gathered around me, and seemed to be examining

me critically in all directions. The men looked complacently at

me, the women, the dear creatures, smiled upon me, and the little

naked, pot-bellied children crawled around my feet, examining the

fashion of my hard shoes, and playing with the {137} long fringes

of my leathern inexpressibles. But I scarcely know how to commence

a description of the _tout en semble_ of the camp, or to frame a

sentence which will give an adequate idea of the extreme filth, and

most horrific nastiness of the whole vicinity. I shall therefore but

transiently glance at it, omitting many of the most disgusting and

abominable features.

[Illustration: Spearing the Salmon]

Immediately as I entered the village, my olfactories were assailed

by the most vile and mephitic odors, which I found to proceed

chiefly from great piles of salmon entrails and garbage which were

lying festering and rotting in the sun, around the very doors of the

habitations. Fish, recent and half dried, were scattered all over

the ground, under the feet of the dogs, wolves and Indian children;

and others which had been split, were hanging on rude platforms

erected within the precincts of the camp. Some of the women were

making their breakfast of the great red salmon eggs as large as

peas, and using a wooden spoon to convey them to their mouths.

Occasionally, also, by way of varying the repast, they would take a

huge pinch of a drying fish which was lying on the ground near them.

Many of the children were similarly employed, and the little imps

would also have hard contests with the dogs for a favorite morsel,

the former roaring and blubbering, the latter yelping and snarling,

and both rolling over and over together upon the savory soil. The

whole economy of the lodges, and the inside and outside appearance,

was of a piece with every thing else about them--filthy beyond

description--the very skins which covered the wigwams were black and

stiff with rancid salmon fat, and the dresses (if dresses they may

be called) of the women, were of the same color and consistence,

from the same cause. These _dresses_ are little square pieces of

deer skin, fastened with a thong around the loins, and reaching

about half way to the knees; the rest of the person is entirely

naked. Some of the women had little children clinging like bullfrogs

to their backs, without being fastened, and in that situation {138}

extracting their lactiferous sustenance from the breast, which was

thrown over the shoulders.

It is almost needless to say, that I did not remain long in the

Snake camp; for although I had been a considerable time estranged

from the abodes of luxury, and had become somewhat accustomed to,

at least, a partial assimilation to a state of nature, yet I was

not prepared for what I saw here. I never had fancied any thing

so utterly abominable, and was glad to escape to a purer and more

wholesome atmosphere.

When I returned to our camp, the trading was going on as briskly as

yesterday. A large number of Indians were assembled around, all of

whom had bundles of fish, which they were anxious to dispose of. The

price of a dried salmon is a straight awl, and a small fish hook,

value about one cent; ten fish are given for a common butcher knife

that costs eight cents. Some, however, will prefer beads, paint,

&c., and of these articles, about an equal amount in value is given.

A beaver skin can be had for a variety of little matters, which cost

about twelve and a half cents; value, in Boston, from eight to ten

dollars!

Early in the afternoon, we repacked our bales of goods and rode out

of the encampment, the Indians yelling an adieu to us as we passed

them. We observed that one had wrapped a buffalo robe around him,

taken a bow and arrows in his hand, and joined us as we went off.

Although we travelled rapidly during the afternoon, the man kept

with us without apparent over-exertion or fatigue, trotting along

constantly for miles together. He is probably on a visit to a

village of his people who are encamped on the "Big river."

_23d._--Towards noon, to-day, we fell in with a village, consisting

of thirty willow lodges of Bannecks. The Indians flocked out to us

by hundreds, leaving their fishing, and every other employment, to

visit the strangers. The chief soon made himself known to us, and

gave us a pressing invitation to stop a {139} short time with them,

for the purpose of trade. Although we had a good supply of fish

on hand, and did not expect soon to suffer from want, yet we knew

not but we might be disappointed in procuring provision lower in

the country, and concluded, therefore, to halt for half an hour,

and make a small increase to our stock. We were in some haste, and

anxious to travel on as quickly as possible, to Snake river. Captain

W., therefore, urged the chief to have the fish brought immediately,

as he intended soon to leave them. The only reply he could obtain to

this request, was "_te sant_," (it is good,) accompanied by signs,

that he wished to smoke. A pipe was provided, and he, with about a

dozen of his young men, formed a circle near, and continued smoking,

with great tranquillity, for half an hour.

Our patience became almost exhausted, and they were told that if

their fish were not soon produced, we should leave them empty as

we came; to this, the only answer of the chief was a sign to us to

remain still, while he deliberated yet farther upon the subject.

We sat a short time longer in silent expectation, and were then

preparing to mount our horses and be off, when several squaws were

despatched to one of the lodges. They returned in a few minutes,

bringing about a dozen dried fish. These were laid in small piles

on the ground, and when the usual price was offered for them, they

refused it scornfully, making the most exorbitant demands. As our

articles of trade were running low, and we were not in immediate

want, we purchased only a sufficiency for one day, and prepared for

our departure, leaving the ground strewn with the neglected salmon.

The Indians were evidently very much irritated, as we could perceive

by their angry countenances, and loud words of menace. Some loosed

the bows from their shoulders, and shook them at us with violent

gestures of rage, and a boy, of seventeen or eighteen years of

age, who stood near me, struck my horse on the head with a {140}

stick, which he held in his hand. This provoked me not a little; and

spurring the animal a few steps forward, I brought my heavy whip

several times over his naked shoulders, and sent him screeching into

the midst of his people. Several bows were drawn at me for this act,

and glad would the savages have been to have had me for a short

time at their mercy, but as it was, they feared to let slip their

arrows, and soon dropped their points, contenting themselves with

vaporing away in all the impotence of childish rage. As we rode off,

they greeted us, not with the usual gay yell, but with a scornful,

taunting laugh, that sounded like the rejoicings of an infernal

jubilee. Had these people been provided with efficient arms, and the

requisite amount of courage to use them, they might have given us

some inconvenience.

Towards evening, we arrived on Snake river, crossed it at a ford,

and encamped near a number of lodges along the shore. Shortly

afterwards, Captain W., with three men, visited the Indians,

carrying with them some small articles, to trade for fish. In about

half an hour they returned, bringing only about ten salmon. They

observed, among the Indians, the same disinclination to traffic

that the others had manifested; or rather, like the first, they

placed a higher value than usual upon the commodity, and wanted, in

exchange, articles which we were not willing to spare them. They

treated Captain W. with the same insolence and contempt which was so

irritating from those of the other village.

This kind of conduct is said to be unusual among this tribe, but

it is probably now occasioned by their having recently purchased a

supply of small articles from Captain Bonneville, who, they inform

us, has visited them within a few days.

Being desirous to escape from the immediate vicinity of the village,

we moved our camp about four miles further, and stopped for the

night.

{141} _24th._--The sudden and entire change from flesh exclusively,

to fish, ditto, has affected us all more or less, with diarrhoea

and pain in the abdomen; several of the men have been so extremely

sick, as scarcely to be able to travel; we shall, however, no doubt,

become accustomed to it in a few days.

We passed, this morning, over a flat country, very similar to that

along the Platte, abounding in wormwood bushes, the pulpy-leaved

thorn, and others, and deep with sand, and at noon stopped on a

small stream called _Malheur's creek_.[129]

[129] Malheur River rises in a lake of that name in Harney County,

Oregon, and flows east and northeast into the Lewis, being one of

the latter's important western tributaries.--ED.

Here a party of nine men was equipped, and despatched up the river,

and across the country, on a trapping expedition, with orders to

join us early in the ensuing winter, at the fort on the Columbia.

Richardson was the chief of this party, and when I grasped the

hand of our worthy hunter, and bade him farewell, I felt as though

I were taking leave of a friend. I had become particularly attached

to him, from the great simplicity and kindness of his heart, and his

universally correct and proper deportment. I had been accustomed to

depend upon his knowledge and sagacity in every thing connected with

the wild and roving life which I had led for some months past, and

I felt that his absence would be a real loss, as well to myself, as

to the whole camp, which had profited so much by his dexterity and

skill.

Our party will now consist of only seventeen men, but the number is

amply sufficient, as we have passed over the country where danger

is to be apprehended from Indians. We followed the course of the

creek during the afternoon, and in the evening encamped on Snake

river, into which Malheur empties. The river is here nearly a mile

wide, but deep and clear, and for a considerable distance, perfectly

navigable for steamboats, or even larger craft, and it would seem

not improbable, that at some distant day, these facilities, added

to the excellence of the alluvial soil, should induce the stout and

hardy adventurers of our country to make permanent settlements here.

{142} I have not observed that the Indians often attempt fishing in

the "big river," where it is wide and deep; they generally prefer

the slues, creeks, &c. Across these, a net of closely woven willows

is stretched, placed vertically, and extending from the bottom to

several feet above the surface. A number of Indians enter the water

about a hundred yards above the net, and, walking closely, drive

the fish in a body against the wicker work. Here they frequently

become entangled, and are always checked; the spear is then used

dexterously, and they are thrown out, one by one, upon the shore.

With industry, a vast number of salmon might be taken in this

manner; but the Indians are generally so indolent and careless of

the future, that it is rare to find an individual with provision

enough to supply his lodge for a week.

_25th._--Early in the day the country assumed a more hilly aspect.

The rich plains were gone. Instead of a dense growth of willow

and the balsam poplar, low bushes of wormwood, &c., predominated,

intermixed with the tall, rank prairie grass.

Towards noon, we fell in with about ten lodges of Indians, (Snakes

and Bannecks,) from whom we purchased eighty salmon. This has put

us in excellent spirits. We feared that we had lost sight of the

natives, and as we had not reserved half the requisite quantity

of provisions for our support to the Columbia, (most of our stock

having been given to Richardson's trapping party,) the prospect of

several days abstinence seemed very clear before us.

In the afternoon, we deviated a little from our general course, to

cut off a bend in the river, and crossed a short, high hill, a part

of an extensive range which we have seen for two days ahead, and

which we suppose to be in the vicinity of Powder river, and {143}

in the evening encamped in a narrow valley, on the borders of the

Shoshoné.[130]

[130] Lewis River here makes a considerable bend to the east, hence

the short cut across country. The mountains are apparently the Burnt

River Range, with Powder River beyond. Wyeth identifies this as the

same place at which he encamped two years previous--near the point

where the Oregon Short Line railway crosses Lewis River.--ED.

_26th._--Last night I had the misfortune to lose my favorite, and

latterly my only riding horse, the other having been left at Fort

Hall, in consequence of a sudden lameness, with which he became

afflicted only the night before our departure.[131] The animal

was turned out as usual, with the others, in the evening, and as

I have never known him to stray in a single instance, I conclude

that some lurking Indian has stolen him. It was the fattest and

handsomest horse in the band, and was no doubt carefully selected,

as there was probably but a single Indian, who was unable to take

more, for fear of alarming the guard. This is the most serious loss

I have met with. The animal was particularly valuable to me, and no

consideration would have induced me to part with it here. It is,

however, a kind of accident that we are always more or less liable

to in this country, and as a search would certainly be fruitless,

must be submitted to with as good a grace as possible. Captain W.

has kindly offered me the use of horses until we arrive at Columbia.

[131] I afterwards ascertained that this lameness of my "buffalo

horse," was intentionally caused by one of the hopeful gentry left

in charge of the fort, for the purpose of rendering the animal

unable to travel, and as a consequence, confining him to the fort

at the time of our departure. The good qualities of the horse as a

buffalo racer, were universally known and appreciated, and I had

repeatedly refused large sums for him, from those who desired him

for this purpose.--TOWNSEND.

We commenced our march early, travelling up a broad, rich valley,

in which we encamped last night, and at the head of it, on a creek

called Brulé, we found one family, consisting of five Snake Indians,

one man, two women, and two children.[132] They had evidently

but very recently arrived, probably only last night, and as they

must certainly have passed our camp, we feel little hesitation in

believing that my lost horse is in their possession. It is, however,

impossible to prove the theft upon them in {144} any way, and time

is not allowed us to search the premises. We cannot even question

them concerning it, as our interpreter, McCarey, left us with the

trapping party.

[132] Burnt (Brulé) River rises in Strawberry Mountains of eastern

Oregon, and flows northeast, then southeast, through Baker County

into Lewis River. The Oregon Trail left the latter river at the

mouth of Burnt River, and advanced up that valley to its northern

bend.--ED.

We bought, of this family, a considerable quantity of dried

choke-cherries, these being the only article of commerce which they

possessed. This fruit they prepare by pounding it with stones,

and drying it in masses in the sun. It is then good tasted, and

somewhat nutritive, and it loses, by the process, the whole of the

astringency which is so disagreeable in the recent fruit.

Leaving the valley, we proceeded over some high and stony hills,

keeping pretty nearly the course of the creek. The travelling was,

as usual in such places, difficult and laborious, and our progress

necessarily slow and tedious. Throughout the day, there was no

change in the character of the country, and the consequence was,

that three of our poor horses gave up and stopped.

_27th._--This morning, two men were left at the camp, for the

purpose of collecting and bringing on, moderately, the horses left

yesterday, and others that may hereafter fail. We were obliged to

leave with them a stock of provision greater in proportion than our

own rather limited allowance, and have thus somewhat diminished our

chance of performing the remainder of the journey with satisfied

appetites, but there is some small game to be found on the route,

grouse, ducks, &c., and occasionally a beaver may be taken, if our

necessities are pressing. We made a noon camp on Brulé, and stopped

at night in a narrow valley, between the hills.

_28th._--Towards noon to-day, we lost the trail among the hills,

and although considerable search was made, we were not able to find

it again. We then directed our course due north, and at 2 o'clock

struck Powder river, a narrow and shallow stream, plentifully

fringed with willows. We passed down this {145} river for about

five miles and encamped.[133] Captain W. immediately left us to

look for the lost trail, and returned in about two hours, with

the information that no trace of it could be found. He therefore

concludes that it is up stream, and to-morrow we travel back to

search for it in that direction. Our men killed, in the afternoon,

an antelope and a deer fawn, which were particularly acceptable to

us; we had been on an allowance of one dried salmon per day, and we

had begun to fear that even this poor pittance would fail before

we could obtain other provision. Game has been exceedingly scarce,

with the exception of a few grouse, pigeons, &c. We have not seen a

deer, antelope, or any other quadruped larger than a hare, since we

left the confines of the buffalo country. Early this morning, one of

our men, named Hubbard, left us to hunt, and as he has not joined

us this evening, we fear he is lost, and feel some anxiety about

him, as he has not been accustomed to finding his way through the

pathless wilds. He is a good marksman, however, and will not suffer

much for food; and as he knows the general course, he will probably

join us at Walla-walla, if we should not see him earlier.

[133] Powder River rises in the Blue Mountains and flows first

east, then north, then abruptly southeast into the Lewis; the trail

followed its north-bearing course. These western affluents of the

Lewis (or Snake) were explored (1819) and probably named by Donald

McKenzie, then of the North West Company.--ED.

_29th._--We commenced our march early this morning, following the

river to a point about six miles above where we struck it yesterday.

We then took to the hills, steering N. N. W.,--it being impossible,

from the broken state of the country, to keep the river bank.

Soon after we commenced the ascent, we met with difficulties in the

shape of high, steep, banks, and deep ravines, the ground being

thickly strewed with sharp, angular masses of lava and basalt. As

we proceeded, these difficulties increased to such a degree, as to

occasion a fear that our horses could never proceed. The hills at

length became like a consolidated mass of irregular rock, and the

small strips of earthy matter that occasionally appeared, were burst

into wide fissures by the desiccation to which {146} the country at

this season is subject. Sometimes, as we approached the verges of

the cliffs, we could see the river winding its devious course many

hundred feet below, rushing and foaming in eddies and whirlpools,

and fretting against the steep sides of the rocks, which hemmed it

in. These are what are called the cut-rocks, the sides of which are

in many places as smooth and regular as though they had been worked

with the chisel, and the opening between them, through which the

river flows, is frequently so narrow that a biscuit might be thrown

across it.

We travelled over these rocks until 1 o'clock in the day, when we

stopped to rest in a small ravine, where we found a little water,

and pasture for our horses. At 3, we were again on the move, making

across the hills towards the river, and after a long, circuitous

march, we arrived on its banks, considerably wearied, and every

horse in our band lamed and completely exhausted. We have not yet

found any clue to the trail for which we have been searching so

anxiously; indeed it would be impossible for a distinguishable trace

to be left over these rugged, stony hills, and the difficulty of

finding it, or determining its direction is not a little increased

by a dense fog which constantly envelopes these regions, obscuring

the sun, and rendering it impossible to see an object many hundred

yards in advance.

The next day we were still travelling over the high and steep hills,

which, fortunately for our poor horses, were far less stony than

hitherto. At about noon we descended to the plain, and struck the

river in the midst of a large level prairie. We proceeded up stream

for an hour, and to our great joy suddenly came in sight of a broad,

open trail stretching away to the S. W. We felt, in some degree, the

pleasure of a sailor who has found the port of which he has been

long and anxiously in search. We made a noon camp here, at which

we remained two hours, and then travelled on in fine spirits over

a beautiful, level, and unobstructed country. Our horses seemed to

participate in our {147} feelings, and trotted on briskly, as though

they too rejoiced in the opportunity of escaping the dreaded hills

and rocks. Towards evening we crossed a single range of low hills

and came to a small round prairie, with good water and excellent

pasture. Here we found a family of _Kayouse_ Indians, and encamped

within sight of them. Two squaws from this family, visited us soon

after, bringing some large kamas cakes and fermented roots, which we

purchased of them.

_31st._--Our route this morning, was over a country generally

level and free from rocks; we crossed, however, one short, and

very steep mountain range, thickly covered with tall and heavy

pine trees, and came to a large and beautiful prairie, called the

_Grand ronde_.[134] Here we found Captain Bonneville's company,

which has been lying here several days, waiting the arrival of its

trapping parties. We made a noon camp near it, and were visited

by Captain Bonneville. This was the first time I had seen this

gentleman. His manners were affable and pleasing, and he seemed

possessed of a large share of bold, adventurous, and to a certain

extent, romantic spirit, without which no man can expect to thrive

as a mountain leader. He stated that he preferred the "free and

easy" life of a mountain hunter and trapper, to the comfortable and

luxurious indolence of a dweller in civilized lands, and would not

exchange his homely, but wholesome mountain fare, and his buffalo

lodge, for the most piquant dishes of the French _artiste_, and

the finest palace in the land.[135] This came well from him, and

I was pleased with it, although I could not altogether agree with

him in sentiment, for I confess I had become somewhat weary of

rough travelling and rough fare, and looked forward with no little

pleasure to a long rest under a Christian roof, and a general

participation in Christian living.

[134] Grande Ronde, a noted halting place on the Oregon Trail, was

so called from its apparently circular shape, as the traveller wound

down the precipitous road into its level basin; it really is an oval

twenty miles long, containing three hundred thousand acres of rich

land. It is in the present Union County, and Grande Ronde River

flows northeasterly through it.--ED.

[135] For a brief sketch of Bonneville consult Gregg's _Commerce of

the Prairies_ in our volume xx, p. 267, note 167.--ED.

With the captain, came a whole troop of Indians, Kayouse, {148}

Nez Percés, &c. They were very friendly towards us, each of the

chiefs taking us by the hand with great cordiality, appearing

pleased to see us, and anxious to point out to us the easiest and

most expeditious route to the lower country. These Indians are,

almost universally, fine looking, robust men, with strong aqualine

features, and a much more cheerful cast of countenance than is

usual amongst the race. Some of the women might almost be called

beautiful, and none that I have seen are homely. Their dresses

are generally of thin deer or antelope skin, with occasionally a

bodice of some linen stuffs, purchased from the whites, and their

whole appearance is neat and cleanly, forming a very striking

contrast to the greasy, filthy, and disgusting Snake females. I

observed one young and very pretty looking woman, dressed in a

great superabundance of finery, glittering with rings and beads,

and flaunting in broad bands of scarlet cloth. She was mounted

astride,--Indian fashion,--upon a fine bay horse, whose head and

tail were decorated with scarlet and blue ribbons, and the saddle,

upon which the fair one sat, was ornamented all over with beads

and little hawk's bells. This damsel did not do us the honor to

dismount, but seemed to keep warily aloof, as though she feared

that some of us might be inordinately fascinated by her fine person

and splendid equipments, and her whole deportment proved to us,

pretty satisfactorily, that she was no common beauty, but the

favored companion of one high in office, who was jealous of her

slightest movement.

After making a hasty meal, and bidding adieu to the captain, and our

friendly Indian visitors, we mounted our horses, and rode off. About

half an hour's brisk trotting brought us to the foot of a steep

and high mountain, called the _Blue_. This is said to be the most

extensive chain west of the dividing ridge, and, with one exception

perhaps the most difficult of passage.[136] The whole mountain is

densely covered with tall pine trees, with {149} an undergrowth of

service bushes and other shrubs, and the path is strewed, to a very

inconvenient degree, with volcanic rocks. In some of the ravines we

find small springs of water; they are, however, rather rare, and the

grass has been lately consumed, and many of the trees blasted by the

ravaging fires of the Indians. These fires are yet smouldering, and

the smoke from them effectually prevents our viewing the surrounding

country, and completely obscures the beams of the sun. We travelled

this evening until after dark, and encamped on a small stream in a

gorge, where we found a plot of grass that had escaped the burning.

[136] Blue Mountains are a continuation of the chains of western

Idaho, trending southwest, then west, toward the centre of the

state of Oregon, forming a watershed between the Lewis and Columbia

systems. Frémont suggests that their name arises from the dark-blue

appearance given to then by the pines with which they are covered.

The trail led northwest from Union into Umatilla County, following

the present railway route, only less circuitous.--ED.

_September 1st._--Last evening, as we were about retiring to

our beds, we heard, distinctly, as we thought, a loud halloo,

several times repeated, and in a tone like that of a man in great

distress. Supposing it to be a person who had lost his way in

the darkness, and was searching for us, we fired several guns at

regular intervals, but as they elicited no reply, after waiting a

considerable time, we built a large fire, as a guide, and lay down

to sleep.

Early this morning, a large panther was seen prowling around our

camp, and the hallooing of last night was explained. It was the

dismal, distressing yell by which this animal entices its prey,

until pity or curiosity induces it to approach to its destruction.

The panther is said to inhabit these forests in considerable

numbers, and has not unfrequently been known to kill the horses of

a camp. He has seldom the temerity to attack a man, unless sorely

pressed by hunger, or infuriated by wounds.

{150} CHAPTER IX

Passage of the Blue Mountains--Sufferings from thirst--Utalla

river--A transformation--A novel meal--Walla-walla

river--Columbia river and Fort Walla-walla--A dinner with

the missionaries--Anecdote of Mr. Lee--A noble repast--Brief

notice of the Fort--Departure of the missionaries--Notice

of the Walla-walla Indians--Departure for Fort

Vancouver--Wild ducks--Indian graves--Indian horses--Visits

from Indians--Ophthalmia, a prevalent disease--Rough

travelling--A company of Chinook Indians--The Dalles--The

party joined by Captain Wyeth--Embarkation in canoes--A

heavy gale--Dangerous navigation--Pusillanimous conduct of

an Indian helmsman--A zealous botanist--Departure of Captain

Wyeth with five men--Cascades--A portage--Meeting with the

missionaries--Loss of a canoe--A toilsome duty--Arrival at Fort

Vancouver--reflections suggested by it--Dr. John McLoughlin, the

chief factor--Domiciliation of the travellers at Fort Vancouver.

_September 1st._--The path through the valley, in which we encamped

last night, was level and smooth for about a mile; we then mounted

a short steep hill and began immediately to descend. The road down

the mountain wound constantly, and we travelled in short, zig-zag

lines, in order to avoid the extremely abrupt declivities; but

occasionally, we were compelled to descend in places that made us

pause before making the attempt: they were, some of them, almost

perpendicular, and our horses would frequently slide several yards,

before they could recover. To this must be added enormous jagged

masses of rock, obstructing the road in many places, and pine trees

projecting their horizontal branches across the path.

The road continued, as I have described it, to the valley in the

plain, and a full hour was consumed before we reached it. {151} The

country then became comparatively level again to the next range,

where a mountain was to be ascended of the same height as the last.

Here we dismounted and led our horses, it being impracticable, in

their present state, to ride them. It was the most toilsome march I

ever made, and we were all so much fatigued, when we arrived at the

summit, that rest was as indispensable to us as to our poor jaded

horses. Here we made a noon camp, with a handful of grass and no

water. This last article appears very scarce, the ravines affording

none, and our dried salmon and kamas bread were eaten unmoistened.

The route, in the afternoon, was over the top of the mountain, the

road tolerably level, but crowded with stones. Towards evening, we

commenced descending again, and in every ravine and gulley we cast

our anxious eyes in search of water; we even explored several of

them, where there appeared to exist any probability of success, but

not one drop did we find. Night at length came on, dark and pitchy,

without a moon or a single star to give us a ray of light; but still

we proceeded, depending solely upon the vision and sagacity of our

horses to keep the track. We travelled steadily until 9 o'clock,

when we saw ahead the dark outline of a high mountain, and soon

after heard the men who rode in front, cry out, joyously, at the top

of their voices, "_water! water!_" It was truly a cheering sound,

and the words were echoed loudly by every man in the company. We had

not tasted water since morning, and both horses and men have been

suffering considerably for the want of it.

_2d._--Captain W. and two men, left us early this morning for

Walla-walla, where they expect to arrive this evening, and send us

some provision, of which we shall be in need, to-morrow.

Our camp moved soon after, under the direction of Captain Thing, and

in about four miles reached _Utalla river_, where it stopped, and

remained until 12 o'clock.[137]

[137] Umatilla River, whose earlier name appears to have been

Utalla. Consult Franchère's _Narrative_ in our volume vi, p.

338.--ED.

As we were approaching so near the abode of those in whose {152}

eyes we wished to appear like fellow Christians, we concluded that

there would be a propriety in attempting to remove at least one of

the heathenish badges which we had worn throughout the journey; so

Mr. N.'s razor was fished out from its hiding place in the bottom

of his trunk, and in a few minutes our encumbered chins lost their

long-cherished ornaments; we performed our ablutions in the river,

arrayed ourselves in clean linen, trimmed our long hair, and then

arranged our toilet before a mirror, with great self-complacence and

satisfaction. I admired my own appearance considerably, (and this

is, probably, an acknowledgement that few would make,) but I could

not refrain from laughing at the strange, party-colored appearance

of my physiognomy, the lower portion being fair, like a woman's, and

the upper, brown and swarthy as an Indian.

Having nothing prepared for dinner to-day, I strolled along the

stream above the camp, and made a meal on rose buds, of which I

collected an abundance; and on returning, I was surprised to find

Mr. N. and Captain T. picking the last bones of a bird which they

had cooked. Upon inquiry, I ascertained that the subject was an

unfortunate owl which I had killed in the morning, and had intended

to preserve, as a specimen. The temptation was too great to be

resisted by the hungry Captain and naturalist, and the bird of

wisdom lost the immortality which he might otherwise have acquired.

In the afternoon, soon after leaving the Utalla, we ascended a high

and very steep hill, and came immediately in view of a beautiful,

and regularly undulating country of great extent. We have now

probably done with high, rugged mountains; the sun shines clear, the

air is bracing and elastic, and we are all in fine spirits.

The next day, the road being generally level, and tolerably free

from stones, we were enabled to keep our horses at the swiftest gait

to which we dare urge them. We have been somewhat {153} disappointed

in not receiving the expected supplies from Walla-walla, but have

not suffered for provision, as the grouse and hares are very

abundant here, and we have shot as many as we wished.

At about noon we struck the Walla-walla river, a very pretty stream

of fifty or sixty yards in width, fringed with tall willows, and

containing a number of salmon, which we can see frequently leaping

from the water. The pasture here, being good, we allowed our horses

an hour's rest to feed, and then travelled on over the plain, until

near dark, when, on rising a sandy hill, the noble Columbia burst

at once upon our view. I could scarcely repress a loud exclamation

of delight and pleasure, as I gazed upon the magnificent river,

flowing silently and majestically on, and reflected that I had

actually crossed the vast American continent, and now stood upon

a stream that poured its waters directly into the Pacific. This,

then, was the great Oregon, the first appearance of which gave

Lewis and Clark so many emotions of joy and pleasure, and on this

stream our indefatigable countrymen wintered, after the toils and

privations of a long, and protracted journey through the wilderness.

My reverie was suddenly interrupted by one of the men exclaiming

from his position in advance, "there is the fort." We had, in

truth approached very near, without being conscious of it.[138]

There stood the fort on the bank of the river; horses and horned

cattle were roaming about the vicinity, and on the borders of the

little Walla-walla, we recognized the white tent of our long lost

missionaries. These we soon joined, and were met and received by

them like brethren. Mr. N. and myself were invited to sup with them

upon a dish of stewed hares which they had just prepared, and it is

almost needless to say that we did full justice to the good men's

cookery. They told us that they had travelled comfortably from

Fort Hall, without any unusual fatigue, and like ourselves, had

no particularly stirring adventures. Their {154} route, although

somewhat longer, was a much less toilsome and difficult one, and

they suffered but little for food, being well provided with dried

buffalo meat, which had been prepared near Fort Hall.

[138] Fort Walla Walla (or Nez Percés) was built by Alexander Ross

of the North West Company in July, 1818--see Ross, _Fur Hunters_,

i, p. 171, for description and representation. It passed into the

possession of the Hudson's Bay Company upon the consolidation of

the corporations, and being rebuilt of adobé after its destruction

by fire, was maintained until 1855-56, when it was abandoned during

an Indian war. It was near the sight of the present Wallula,

Washington, on the left bank of the Columbia, about half a mile

above Walla Walla River.--ED.

Mr. Walker, (a young gentleman attached to the band,) related an

anecdote of Mr. Lee, the principal, which I thought eminently

characteristic. The missionaries were, on one occasion, at a

considerable distance behind the main body, and had stopped for

a few moments to regale themselves on a cup of milk from a cow

which they were driving. Mr. L. had unstrapped the tin pan from

his saddle, and was about applying himself to the task, when a

band of a dozen Indians was descried at a distance, approaching

the little party at full gallop. There was but little time for

consideration. The rifles were looked to, the horses were mounted

in eager haste, and all were ready for a long run, except Mr. Lee

himself, who declared that nothing should deprive him of his cup of

milk, and that he meant to "lighten the old cow before he moved."

He accordingly proceeded coolly to fill his tin pan, and, after a

hearty drink, grasped his rifle, and mounted his horse, at the very

moment that the Indians had arrived to within speaking distance.

To the great relief of most of the party, these proved to be of

the friendly Nez Percé tribe, and after a cordial greeting, they

travelled on together.

The missionaries informed us that they had engaged a large barge

to convey themselves and baggage to Fort Vancouver, and that

Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashworth were to be of the party. Mr. N.

and myself were very anxious to take a seat with them, but to our

disappointment, were told that the boat would scarcely accommodate

those already engaged. We had therefore to relinquish it, and

prepare for a journey on horseback to the _Dalles_, about eighty

miles below, to which place Captain W. would {155} precede us in the

barge, and engage canoes to convey us to the lower fort.

This evening, we purchased a large bag of Indian meal, of which we

made a kettle of mush, and mixed with it a considerable quantity

of horse tallow and salt. This was, I think, one of the best meals

I ever made. We all ate heartily of it, and pronounced it princely

food. We had been long without bread stuff of any kind, and the

coarsest farinaceous substance, with a proper allowance of grease,

would have been highly prized.

The next morning, we visited Walla-walla Fort, and were

introduced, by Captain W., to Lieutenant Pierre S. Pambrun, the

superintendent.[139] Wyeth and Mr. Pambrun had met before, and were

well acquainted; they had, therefore, many reminiscences of by-gone

days to recount, and long conversations, relative to the variety of

incidents which had occurred to each, since last they parted.

[139] Lieutenant Pierre Chrysologue Pambrun was born near Quebec

in 1792. In the War of 1812-15, he was an officer in the Canadian

light troops, and soon after peace was declared entered the employ

of the Hudson's Bay Company. At the Red River disturbances (1816) he

was taken prisoner, but soon released. Later he served at several

far Western fur-trade posts, and coming to the Columbia was placed

in charge at Fort Walla Walla (1832). He showed many courtesies to

the overland emigrants, but refused supplies to Captain Bonneville

as being a rival trader; he appears, however, to have had no such

feeling with regard to Captain Wyeth. Pambrun was severely hurt

by a fall from his horse (1840), and died of the injury at Walla

Walla.--ED.

The fort is built of drift logs, and surrounded by a stoccade of the

same, with two bastions, and a gallery around the inside. It stands

about a hundred yards from the river, on the south bank, in a bleak

and unprotected situation, surrounded on every side by a great,

sandy plain, which supports little vegetation, except the wormwood

and thorn-bushes. On the banks of the little river, however, there

are narrow strips of rich soil, and here Mr. Pambrun raises the few

garden vegetables necessary for the support of his family. Potatoes,

turnips, carrots, &c., thrive well, and Indian corn produces eighty

bushels to the acre.

At about 10 o'clock, the barge got under way, and soon after, our

company with its baggage, crossed the river in canoes, and encamped

on the opposite shore.

There is a considerable number of Indians resident here, Kayouse's

and a collateral band of the same tribe, called Walla-wallas.[140]

{156} They live along the bank of the river, in shantys or wigwams

of drift wood, covered with buffalo or deer skins. They are a

miserable, squalid looking people, are constantly lolling around

and in the fort, and annoy visitors by the importunate manner in

which they endeavor to force them into some petty trade for a pipe,

a hare, or a grouse. All the industrious and enterprising men of

this tribe are away trading salmon, kamas root, &c. to the mountain

companies.

[140] For the Walla Walla Indians, see Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, in

our volume vii, p. 137, note 37.--ED.

Notwithstanding the truly wretched plight in which these poor people

live, and the privations which they must necessarily have to suffer,

they are said to be remarkably honest and upright in their dealings,

and generally correct in their moral deportment. Although they

doubtless have the acquisitive qualities so characteristic of the

race, they are rarely known to violate the principles of common

honesty. A man may leave his tent unguarded, and richly stored with

every thing which ordinarily excites the cupidity of the Indian,

yet, on returning after a long absence, he may find all safe. What

a commentary is this on the habits and conduct of our _Christian_

communities!

The river is here about three-fourths of a mile in width,--a clear,

deep, and rapid stream, the current being generally from three to

four miles an hour. It is the noblest looking river I have seen

since leaving our Delaware. The banks are in many places high and

rocky, occasionally interrupted by broad, level sandy beaches. The

only vegetation along the margin, is the wormwood, and other low,

arid plants, but some of the bottoms are covered with heavy, rank

grass, affording excellent pasture for horses.

_5th._--This morning we commenced our march down the Columbia. We

have no provision with us except flour and horse tallow, but we have

little doubt of meeting Indians daily, with whom we can trade for

fish. Our road will now be a rather monotonous one {157} along the

bank of the river, tolerably level, but often rocky, so that very

rapid travelling is inadmissible. The mallard duck, the widgeon, and

the green-winged teal are tolerably abundant in the little estuaries

of the river. Our men have killed several, but they are poor, and

not good.

_6th._--We have observed to-day several high, conical stacks of

drift-wood near the river. These are the graves of the Indians. Some

of these cemeteries are of considerable extent, and probably contain

a great number of bodies. I had the curiosity to peep into several

of them, and even to remove some of the coverings, but found nothing

to compensate for the trouble.

We bought some salmon from Indians whom we met to-day, which, with

our flour and tallow, enable us to live very comfortably.

_7th._--We frequently fall in with large bands of Indian horses.

There are among them some very beautiful animals, but they are

generally almost as wild as deer, seldom permitting an approach to

within a hundred yards or more. They generally have owners, as we

observe upon many of them strange hieroglyphic looking characters,

but there are no doubt some that have never known the bit, and will

probably always roam the prairie uncontrolled. When the Indians wish

to catch a horse from one of these bands, they adopt the same plan

pursued by the South Americans for taking the wild animal.

_8th._--Our road to-day has been less monotonous, and much more

hilly than hitherto. Along the bank of the river, are high

mountains, composed of basaltic rock and sand, and along their bases

enormous drifts of the latter material. Large, rocky promontories

connected with these mountains extend into the river to considerable

distances, and numerous islands of the same dot its surface.

We are visited frequently as we travel along, by Indians of {158}

the Walla-walla and other tribes, whose wigwams we see on the

opposite side of the river. As we approach these rude huts, the

inhabitants are seen to come forth in a body; a canoe is immediately

launched, the light bark skims the water like a bird, and in an

incredibly short time its inmates are with us. Sometimes a few

salmon are brought to barter for our tobacco, paint, &c., but more

frequently they seem impelled to the visit by mere curiosity.

To-day a considerable number have visited us, and among them some

very handsome young girls. I could not but admire the gaiety and

cheerfulness which seemed to animate them. They were in high

spirits, and evidently very much pleased with the unusual privilege

which they were enjoying.

At our camp in the evening, eight Walla-walla's came to see us. The

chief was a remarkably fine looking man, but he, as well as several

of his party, was suffering from a severe purulent ophthalmia which

had almost deprived him of sight. He pointed to his eyes, and

contorting his features to indicate the pain he suffered, asked me

by signs to give him medicine to cure him. I was very sorry that

my small stock of simples did not contain anything suited to his

complaint, and I endeavored to tell him so. I have observed that

this disease is rather prevalent among the Indians residing on the

river, and I understood from the chief's signs that most of the

Indians towards the lower country were similarly affected.

_9th._--The character of the country has changed considerably since

we left Walla-walla. The river has become gradually more narrow,

until it is now but about two hundred yards in width, and completely

hemmed in by enormous rocks on both sides. Many of these extend for

considerable distances into the stream in perpendicular columns, and

the water dashes and breaks against them until all around is foam.

The current is here very swift, probably six or seven miles to the

hour; and the {159} Indian canoes in passing down, seem literally to

_fly_ along its surface. The road to-day has been rugged to the very

last degree. We have passed over continuous masses of sharp rock for

hours together, sometimes picking our way along the very edge of the

river, several hundred feet above it; again, gaining the back land,

by passing through any casual chasm or opening in the rocks, where

we were compelled to dismount, and lead our horses.

This evening, we are surrounded by a large company of Chinook

Indians, of both sexes, whose temporary wigwams are on the bank of

the river. Many of the squaws have young children sewed up in the

usual Indian fashion, wrapped in a skin, and tied firmly to a board,

so that nothing but the head of the little individual is seen.[141]

[141] This must have been a roving party, far from their base, for

the Chinook were rarely found so high up the Columbia.--ED.

These Indians are very peaceable and friendly. They have no weapons

except bows, and these are used more for amusement and exercise,

than as a means of procuring them sustenance, their sole dependence

being fish and beaver, with perhaps a few hares and grouse, which

are taken in traps. We traded with these people for a few fish and

beaver skins, and some roots, and before we retired for the night,

arranged the men in a circle, and gave them a smoke in token of our

friendship.

_10th._--This afternoon we reached the _Dalles_.[142] The entire

water of the river here flows through channels of about fifteen feet

in width, and between high, perpendicular rocks; there are several

of these channels at distances of from half a mile to a mile apart,

and the water foams and boils through them like an enormous cauldron.

[142] The first obstruction in the Columbia on descending from Walla

Walla consists of the Falls and Long and Short Narrows frequently

called the Dalles. See descriptions in _Original Journals of

the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, iii, pp. 146-173; Franchère's

_Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. 337; and Ross's _Oregon Settlers_,

our volume vii, pp. 128-133.--ED.

On the opposite side of the river there is a large Indian village,

belonging to a chief named Tilki, and containing probably five

hundred wigwams. As we approached, the natives swarmed like bees

to the shore, launched their canoes, and joined us in a few {160}

minutes. We were disappointed in not seeing Captain W. here, as this

was the spot where we expected to meet him; the chief, however, told

us that we should find him about twelve miles below, at the next

village. We were accordingly soon on the move again, and urging our

horses to their fastest gait, we arrived about sunset. The captain,

the chief of the village, and several other Indians, came out to

meet us and make us welcome. Captain W. has been here two days, and

we were pleased to learn that he had completed all the necessary

arrangements for transporting ourselves and baggage to Vancouver in

canoes. The route by land is said to be a very tedious and difficult

one, and, in some places, almost impassable, but even were it

otherwise, I believe we should all much prefer the water conveyance,

as we have become very tired of riding.

Since leaving the upper village this afternoon, we have been

followed by scores of Indians on foot and on horseback; some of the

animals carrying three at a time; and although we travelled rapidly,

the pedestrians were seldom far behind us.

We have concluded to leave our horses here, in charge of the chief

of the village, who has promised to attend to them during the

winter, and deliver them to our order in the spring. Captain W.

having been acquainted with this man before, is willing to trust him.

_11th._--Early this morning, we launched our three canoes, and each

being provided with an Indian, as helmsman, we applied ourselves

to our paddles, and were soon moving briskly down the river. In

about an hour after, the wind came out dead ahead, and although

the current was in favor, our progress was sensibly checked. As

we proceeded, the wind rose to a heavy gale, and the waves ran to

a prodigious height. At one moment our frail bark danced upon the

crest of a wave, and at the next, fell with a surge into the trough

of the sea, and as we looked at the swell before us, it seemed that

in an instant we {161} must inevitably be engulphed. At such times,

the canoe ahead of us was entirely hidden from view, but she was

observed to rise again like a seagull, and hurry on into the same

danger. The Indian in my canoe soon became completely frightened;

he frequently hid his face with his hands, and sang, in a low

melancholy voice, a prayer which we had often heard from his people,

while at their evening devotions. As our dangers were every moment

increasing, the man became at length absolutely childish, and with

all our persuasion and threats, we could not induce him to lay his

paddle into the water. We were all soon compelled to put in shore,

which we did without sustaining any damage; the boats were hauled

up high and dry, and we concluded to remain in our quarters until

to-morrow, or until there was a cessation of wind. In about an hour

it lulled a little, and Captain W. ordered the boats to be again

launched, in the hope of being able to weather a point about five

miles below, before the gale again commenced, where we could lie

by until it should be safe to proceed. The calm proved, as some of

us had suspected, a treacherous one; in a very few minutes after

we got under way, we were contending with the same difficulties as

before, and again our cowardly helmsman laid by his paddle and began

mumbling his prayer. It was too irritating to be borne. Our canoe

had swung round broad side to the surge, and was shipping gallons of

water at every dash.

At this time it was absolutely necessary that every man on board

should exert himself to the utmost to head up the canoe and make

the shore as soon as possible. Our Indian, however, still sat with

his eyes covered, the most abject and contemptible looking thing

I ever saw. We took him by the shoulders and threatened to throw

him overboard, if he did not immediately lend his assistance: we

might as well have spoken to a stone. He was finally aroused,

however, by our presenting a loaded gun at his breast; he dashed

the muzzle away, seized his paddle {162} again, and worked with

a kind of desperate and wild energy, until he sank back in the

canoe completely exhausted. In the mean time the boat had become

half full of water, shipping a part of every surf that struck her,

and as we gained the shallows every man sprang overboard, breast

deep, and began hauling the canoe to shore. This was even a more

difficult task than that of propelling her with the oars; the water

still broke over her, and the bottom was a deep kind of quicksand,

in which we sank almost to the knees at every step, the surf at

the same time dashing against us with such violence as to throw

us repeatedly upon our faces. We at length reached the shore, and

hauled the canoe up out of reach of the breakers. She was then

unloaded as soon as possible, and turned bottom upwards. The goods

had suffered considerably by the wetting; they were all unbaled and

dried by a large fire, which we built on the shore.

We were soon visited by several men from the other boats, which were

ahead, and learned that their situation had been almost precisely

similar to our own, except that their Indians had not evinced,

to so great a degree, the same unmanly terror which had rendered

ours so inefficient and useless. They were, however, considerably

frightened, much more so than the white men. It would seem strange

that Indians, who have been born, and have lived during their whole

lives, upon the edge of the water, who have been accustomed, from

infancy, to the management of a canoe, and in whose childish sports

and manly pastimes these frail barks have always been employed,

should exhibit, on occasions like this, such craven and womanly

fears; but the probability is, as their business is seldom of a

very urgent nature, that they refrain from making excursions of any

considerable extent in situations known to be dangerous, except

during calm weather; it is possible, also, that such gales may be

rare, and they have not been accustomed to them. Immediately after

we landed, our redoubtable helmsman broke away from us, {163} and

ran at full speed back towards the village. We have doubtless lost

him entirely, but we do not much regret his departure, as he proved

himself so entirely unequal to the task he had undertaken.[143]

[143] On this matter consult _Original Journals of the Lewis and

Clark Expedition_, iii, pp. 166-210, 217, 221, 256, where the

Indians are represented as venturing forth into rough water that no

white man dared breast.--ED.

_12th._--The gale continues with the same violence as yesterday,

and we do not therefore think it expedient to leave our camp.

Mr. N.'s large and beautiful collection of new and rare plants

was considerably injured by the wetting it received; he has been

constantly engaged since we landed yesterday, in opening and drying

them. In this task he exhibits a degree of patience and perseverance

which is truly astonishing; sitting on the ground, and steaming

over the enormous fire, for hours together, drying the papers, and

re-arranging the whole collection, specimen by specimen, while the

great drops of perspiration roll unheeded from his brow. Throughout

the whole of our long journey, I have had constantly to admire

the ardor and perfect indefatigability with which he has devoted

himself to the grand object of his tour. No difficulty, no danger,

no fatigue has ever daunted him, and he finds his rich reward in

the addition of nearly _a thousand_ new species of American plants,

which he has been enabled to make to the already teeming flora of

our vast continent. My bale of birds, which was equally exposed to

the action of the water, escaped without any material injury.

In the afternoon, the gale not having abated, Captain W. became

impatient to proceed, as he feared his business at Vancouver would

suffer by delay; he accordingly proposed taking one canoe, and

braving the fury of the elements, saying that he wished five men,

who were not afraid of water, to accompany him. A dozen of our

fearless fellows volunteered in a moment, and the captain selecting

such as he thought would best suit his purpose, lost no time in

launching his canoe, and away she went over the foaming waters,

dashing the spray from her bows, and laboring through the heavy

swells until she was lost to our view. {164} The more sedate amongst

us did not much approve of this somewhat hasty measure of our

principal; it appeared like a useless and daring exposure of human

life, not warranted by the exigencies of the case. Mr. N. remarked

that he would rather lose all his plants than venture his life in

that canoe.

On the 13th the wind shifted to due north, and was blowing somewhat

less furiously than on the previous day. At about noon we loaded our

canoes, and embarked; our progress, however, during the afternoon,

was slow; the current was not rapid, and the wind was setting up

stream so strongly that we could not make much headway against it;

we had, also, as before, to contend with turbulent waves, but we

found we could weather them with much less difficulty, since the

change of the wind.

_14th._--Before sunrise, a light rain commenced, which increased

towards mid-day to a heavy shower, and continued steadily during the

afternoon and night. There was, in the morning, a dead calm, the

water was perfectly smooth, and disturbed only by the light rain

pattering upon its surface. We made an early start, and proceeded

on very expeditiously until about noon, when we arrived at the

"cascades," and came to a halt above them, near a small Indian

village. These cascades, or cataracts are formed by a collection of

large rocks, in the bed of the river, which extend, for perhaps half

a mile. The current for a short distance above them, is exceedingly

rapid, and there is said to be a gradual fall, or declivity of the

river, of about twenty feet in the mile. Over these rocks, and

across the whole river, the water dashes and foams most furiously,

and with a roar which we heard distinctly at the distance of several

miles.[144]

[144] The cascades are the last obstructions on the Lower Columbia.

Consult _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, iii,

pp. 179-185; Franchère's _Narrative_ in our volume vi, p. 336; and

Ross's _Oregon Settlers_ in our volume vii, pp. 121-125.--ED.

It is wholly impossible for any craft to make its way through these

difficulties, and our light canoes would not live an instant in

them. It is, therefore, necessary to make a portage, either by

carrying the canoes over land to the opposite side of the cataracts,

or by wading in the water near the shore, where the surges are

{165} lightest, and dragging the unloaded boat through them by

a cable. Our people chose the latter method, as the canoes felt

very heavy and cumbersome, being saturated with the rain which was

still falling rapidly. They were accordingly immediately unloaded,

the baggage placed on the shore, and the men entered the water to

their necks, headed by Captain Thing, and addressed themselves to

the troublesome and laborious task. In the meantime, Mr. N., and

myself were sent ahead to take the best care of ourselves that our

situation and the surrounding circumstances permitted. We found

a small Indian trail on the river bank, which we followed in all

its devious windings, up and down hills, over enormous piles of

rough flinty rocks, through brier bushes, and pools of water,

&c. &c., for about a mile, and descending near the edge of the

river, we observed a number of white men who had just succeeded in

forcing a large barge through the torrent, and were then warping

her into still water near the shore. Upon approaching them more

closely, we recognised, to our astonishment, our old friend Captain

Stewart, with the good missionaries, and all the rest who left us

at Walla-walla on the 4th. Poor fellows! Every man of them had been

over breast deep in water, and the rain, which was still falling in

torrents, was more than sufficient to drench what the waves did not

cover, so that they were most abundantly soaked and bedraggled. I

felt sadly inclined to laugh heartily at them, but a single glance

at the sorry appearance of myself and my companion was sufficient

to check the feeling. We joined them, and aided in kindling a fire

to warm and dry ourselves a little, as there was not a dry rag on

us, and we were all in an ague with cold. After a very considerable

time, we succeeded in igniting the wet timber, and had a tolerably

large fire. We all seated ourselves on the ground around it, and

related our adventures. They had, like ourselves, suffered somewhat

from the head-wind and heavy swells, but unlike us they had a craft

that would weather it easily; even they, however, {166} shipped some

water, and made very little progress for the last two days. They

informed us that Captain W.'s canoe had been dashed to pieces on

the rocks above, and that he and all his crew were thrown into the

water, and forced to swim for their lives. They all escaped, and

proceeded down the river, this morning, in a canoe, hired of the

Indians here, one of whom accompanied them, as pilot.

After a hasty meal of fish, purchased on the spot, our friends

reloaded their boat and got under way, hoping to reach Vancouver

by next morning. Mr. N. and myself remained some time longer here,

expecting intelligence from our people behind; we had begun to feel

a little uneasy about them, and thought of returning to look into

their situation, when Captain T. came in haste towards us, with

the mortifying intelligence that one canoe had been stove upon

the rocks, and the other so badly split, that he feared she would

not float; the latter was, however, brought on by the men, and

moored where we had stopped. A man was then despatched to an Indian

village, about five miles below, to endeavor to procure one or two

canoes and a pilot. In the mean time, we had all to walk back along

the circuitous and almost impassable Indian trail, and carry our wet

and heavy baggage from the spot where the boats had been unloaded.

The distance, as I have stated, was a full mile, and the road so

rough and encumbered as to be scarcely passable. In walking over

many of the large and steep rocks, it was often necessary that the

hands should be used to raise and support the body; this, with a

load, was inconvenient. Again, in ascending and descending the steep

and slippery hills, a single mis-step was certain to throw us in

the mud, and bruise us upon the sharp rocks which were planted all

around. This accident occurred several times with us all.

Over this most miserable of all roads, with the cold rain dashing

and pelting upon us during the whole time, until we felt as {167}

though we were frozen to the very marrow, did we all have to travel

and return four separate times, before our baggage was properly

deposited. It was by far the most fatiguing, cheerless, and

uncomfortable business in which I was ever engaged, and truly glad

was I to lie down at night on the cold, wet ground, wrapped in my

blankets, out of which I had just wrung the water, and I think I

never slept more soundly or comfortably than that night.[145]

[145] I could not but recollect at that time, the last injunction of

my dear old grandmother, not to sleep in damp beds!!--TOWNSEND.

I arose the next morning rested and refreshed, though somewhat sore

from sundry bruises received on the hills to which I have alluded.

_15th._--The rain still continued falling, but lightly, the weather

calm and cool. The water immediately below the cascades foams and

boils in a thousand eddies, forming little whirlpools, which,

however insignificant they may appear, are exceedingly dangerous

for light canoes, whirling their bows around to the current, and

capsising them in an instant. Near the shore, at the foot of the

cataract, there is a strong backward tow, through which it is

necessary to drag the canoe, by a line, for the distance of a

hundred yards; here it feels the force of the opposite current, and

is carried on at the rate of seven or eight miles to the hour.

The man whom we sent yesterday to the village, returned this

morning; he stated that one canoe only could be had, but that three

Indians, accustomed to the navigation, would accompany us; that they

would soon be with us, and endeavor to repair our damaged boat. In

an hour they came, and after the necessary clamping and caulking of

our leaky vessel, we loaded, and were soon moving rapidly down the

river. The rain ceased about noon, but the sun did not appear during

the day.

{168} _16th._--The day was a delightful one; the sky was robed in a

large flaky cumulus, the glorious sun occasionally bursting through

among the clouds, with dazzling splendor. We rose in the morning

in fine spirits, our Indians assuring us that "King George," as

they called the fort, was but a short distance from us. At about

11 o'clock, we arrived, and stepped on shore at the _end of our

journey_.

It is now three days over six months since I left my beloved home.

I, as well as the rest, have been in some situations of danger,

of trial, and of difficulty, but I have passed through them all

unharmed, with a constitution strengthened, and invigorated by

healthful exercise, and a heart which I trust can feel deeply,

sincerely thankful to that kind and overruling Providence who has

watched over and protected me.

We have passed for months through a country swarming with Indians

who thirsted for our blood, and whose greatest pride and glory

consisted in securing the scalp of a white man. Enemies, sworn,

determined enemies to all, both white and red, who intrude upon

his hunting grounds, the Blackfoot roams the prairie like a wolf

seeking his prey, and springing upon it when unprepared, and at the

moment when it supposes itself most secure. To those who have always

enjoyed the comforts and security of civilized life, it may seem

strange that persons who know themselves to be constantly exposed

to such dangers--who never lie down at night without the weapons

of death firmly grasped in their hands, and who are in hourly

expectation of hearing the terrific war whoop of the savage, should

yet sleep soundly and refreshingly, and feel themselves at ease;

such however is the fact. I never in my life enjoyed rest more than

when travelling through the country of which I speak. I had become

accustomed to it: I felt constant apprehension certainly, but not

to such an extent as to deprive me of any of the few comforts which

I could command in such an uncomfortable country. The {169} guard

might pass our tent, and cry "all's well," in his loudest key,

without disturbing my slumbers: but if the slightest _unusual_ noise

occurred, I was awake in an instant, and listening painfully for a

repetition of it.

On the beach in front of the fort, we were met by Mr. Lee, the

missionary, and Dr. John McLoughlin, the chief factor, and Governor

of the Hudson's Bay posts in this vicinity. The Dr. is a large,

dignified and very noble looking man, with a fine expressive

countenance, and remarkably bland and pleasing manners. The

missionary introduced Mr. N. and myself in due form, and we were

greeted and received with a frank and unassuming politeness which

was most peculiarly grateful to our feelings. He requested us to

consider his house our home, provided a separate room for our use,

a servant to wait upon us, and furnished us with every convenience

which we could possibly wish for. I shall never cease to feel

grateful to him for his disinterested kindness to the poor houseless

and travel-worn strangers.[146]

[146] Dr. John McLoughlin, born near Quebec, October 19, 1784, was

educated as a physician, and for a time studied in Paris. Early in

the nineteenth century he entered the North West Company's employ,

and was stationed at Fort William, on Lake Superior, where he knew

Sir Alexander Mackenzie and other frontier celebrities. In 1818

he married Margaret, widow of Alexander McKay, who perished in

the "Tonquin" (1811). In 1824 McLoughlin was transferred to the

Columbia, as chief factor for the Hudson's Bay Company in all the

transmontane region. Making his headquarters at Fort Vancouver, he

for upwards of twenty years ruled with a firm but mild justice this

vast forest empire. On the great American emigration to Oregon,

McLoughlin's humanity and kindness of heart led him to succor

the weary homeseekers, for which cause he was reprimanded by the

company and thereupon resigned (1846). The remainder of his life

was passed at Oregon City, and was somewhat embittered by land

controversies. He became a naturalized American citizen, and after

his death (September 7, 1857) the Oregon legislature made to his

heirs restitution of his lands, in recognition of the great service

of the "Father of Oregon." Brief sketches from his life are included

in E. E. Dye, _McLoughlin and Old Oregon, a Chronicle_ (Chicago,

1900).--ED.

{170} CHAPTER X

Fort Vancouver--Agricultural and other improvements--Vancouver

"camp"--Approach of the rainy season--Expedition to the

Wallammet--The falls--A village of Klikatat Indians--Manner

of flattening the head--A Flathead infant--Brig "May

Dacre"--Preparations for a settlement--Success of the

naturalists--Chinook Indians--their appearance and costume--Ague

and fever--Superstitious dread of the Indians--Desertion of the

Sandwich Islanders from Captain Wyeth's party--Embarkation for a

trip to the Islands--George, the Indian pilot--Mount Coffin--A

visit to the tombs--Superstition--Visit to an Indian house--Fort

George--Site of Astoria--A blind Indian boy--Cruel and unfeeling

conduct of the savages--their moral character--Baker's Bay--Cape

Disappointment--Dangerous bar at the entrance of the river--The

sea beach--Visit of Mr. Ogden--Passage across the bar....

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north bank of the Columbia on a

large level plain, about a quarter of a mile from the shore.[147]

The space comprised within the stoccade is an oblong square, of

about one hundred, by two hundred and fifty feet. The houses built

of logs and frame-work, to the number of ten or twelve, are ranged

around in a quadrangular form, the one occupied by the doctor

being in the middle. In front, and enclosed on three sides by the

buildings, is a large open space, where all the in-door work of

the establishment is done. Here the Indians assemble with their

multifarious articles of trade, beaver, otter, venison, and various

other game, and here, once a week, several scores of Canadians are

employed, beating the furs which have been collected, in order to

free them from dust and vermin.

[147] Fort Vancouver was the centre of the Hudson's Bay Company's

operations in Oregon, and the most important post in that country.

Built in 1824-25 under the supervision of Dr. John McLoughlin,

who decided to transfer thither his headquarters from Fort George

(Astoria), its site was on the north bank of the Columbia, a hundred

and fourteen miles from the mouth of the river, and six miles above

that of the Willamette. It was not a formidable enclosure, for the

Indians thereabout were in general peaceful, and a large farm and an

agricultural settlement were attached to the post. After McLoughlin

resigned (1846), James Douglas was chief factor until the American

possession. In 1849 General Harney took charge, and by orders from

Washington destroyed part of the trading post, and established a

United States military post now known as Vancouver Barracks.--ED.

{171} Mr. N. and myself walked over the farm with the doctor,

to inspect the various improvements which he has made. He has

already several hundred acres fenced in, and under cultivation,

and like our own western prairie land, it produces abundant crops,

particularly of grain, without requiring any manure. Wheat thrives

astonishingly; I never saw better in any country, and the various

culinary vegetables, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, &c., are in great

profusion, and of the first quality. Indian corn does not flourish

so well as at Walla-walla, the soil not being so well adapted to

it; melons are well flavored, but small; the greatest curiosity,

however, is the apples, which grow on small trees, the branches of

which would be broken without the support of props. So profuse is

the quantity of fruit that the limbs are covered with it, and it is

actually _packed_ together precisely in the same manner that onions

are attached to ropes when they are exposed for sale in our markets.

On the farm is a grist mill, a threshing mill, and a saw mill, the

two first, by horse, and the last, by water power; besides many

minor improvements in agricultural and other matters, which cannot

but astonish the stranger from a civilized land, and which reflect

great credit upon the liberal and enlightened chief factor.

In the propagation of domestic cattle, the doctor has been

particularly successful. Ten years ago a few head of neat cattle

were brought to the fort by some fur traders from California; these

have now increased to near seven hundred. They are a large framed,

long horned breed, inferior in their milch qualities to those of the

United States, but the beef is excellent, and in consequence of the

mildness of the climate, it is never necessary to provide them with

fodder during the winter, an abundant supply of excellent pasture

being always found.

On the farm, in the vicinity of the fort, are thirty or forty log

huts, which are occupied by the Canadians, and others attached {172}

to the establishment. These huts are placed in rows, with broad

lanes or streets between them, and the whole looks like a very neat

and beautiful village. The most fastidious cleanliness appears to be

observed; the women may be seen sweeping the streets and scrubbing

the door-sills as regularly as in our own proverbially cleanly

city.[148]

[148] I have given this notice of the suburbs of the fort, as I find

it in my journal written at the time; I had reason, subsequently,

to change my opinion with regard to the scrupulous cleanliness of

the Canadians' Indian wives, and particularly after inspecting the

internal economy of the dwellings. What at first struck me as neat

and clean, by an involuntary comparison of it with the extreme

filthiness to which I had been accustomed amongst the Indians, soon

revealed itself in its proper light, and I can freely confess that

my first estimate was too high.--TOWNSEND.

_Sunday, September 25th._--Divine service was performed in the fort

this morning by Mr. Jason Lee. This gentleman and his nephew had

been absent some days in search of a suitable place to establish

themselves, in order to fulfil the object of their mission. They

returned yesterday, and intend leaving us to-morrow with their suite

for the station selected, which is upon the Wallammet river, about

sixty miles south of the fort.[149]

[149] Jason Lee had intended to settle among the Flatheads; but upon

the advice of McLoughlin, reinforced by his own observations, the

missionary decided to establish his first station in the fertile

Willamette valley. He proceeded to the small settlement of French

Canadian ex-servants of the company and built his house on the east

side of the river, at Chemyway, in Marion County.--ED.

In the evening we were gratified by the arrival of Captain Wyeth

from below, who informed us that the brig from Boston, which was

sent out by the company to which Wyeth is attached, had entered the

river, and was anchored about twenty miles below, at a spot called

Warrior's point, near the western entrance of the Wallammet.[150]

[150] Warriors' Point is at the lower end of Wappato (or Sauvie)

Island, the eastern boundary of the lower Willamette mouth. Probably

it received its name from a party of Indians who in 1816 fired

upon a trading party from Fort George and drove them back from the

Willamette; see Alexander Ross, _Fur Hunters_, i, pp. 100, 101.--ED.

Captain W. mentioned his intention to visit the Wallammet country,

and seek out a convenient location for a fort which he wishes

to establish without delay, and Mr. N. and myself accepted an

invitation to accompany him in the morning. He has brought with

him one of the brig's boats, and eight oarsmen, five of whom are

Sandwich Islanders.

We have experienced for several days past, gloomy, lowering, and

showery weather; indeed the sun has scarcely been seen for {173} a

week past. This is said to indicate the near approach of the rainy

season, which usually sets in about the middle of October, or even

earlier. After this time, until December, there is very little clear

weather, showers or heavy clouds almost constantly prevailing.

On the 29th, Captain Wyeth, Mr. N., and myself, embarked in the

ship's boat for our exploring excursion. We had a good crew of fine

robust sailors, and the copper-colored islanders,--or _Kanakas_, as

they are called,--did their duty with great alacrity and good will.

At about five miles below the fort, we entered the upper mouth

of the Wallammet. This river is here about half the width of the

Columbia, a clear and beautiful stream, and navigable for large

vessels to the distance of twenty-five miles. It is covered with

numerous islands, the largest of which is that called _Wappatoo

Island_, about twenty miles in length.[151] The vegetation on the

main land is good, the timber generally pine and post oak, and the

river is margined in many places with a beautiful species of willow

with large ob-lanceolate leaves like those of the peach, and white

on their under surface. The timber on the islands is chiefly oak, no

pine growing there. At about 10 o'clock we overtook three men whom

Captain W. had sent ahead in a canoe and we all landed soon after

on the beach and dined on a mess of salmon and peas which we had

provided. We were under way again in the afternoon, and encamped

at about sunset. We have as yet seen no suitable place for an

establishment, and to-morrow we proceed to the falls of the river,

about fifteen miles further. Almost all the land in the vicinity is

excellent and well calculated for cultivation, and several spots

which we have visited, would be admirably adapted to the captain's

views, but that there is not a sufficient extent unincumbered, or

which could be fitted for the purposes of tillage in a space of time

short enough {174} to be serviceable; others are at some seasons

inundated, which is an insurmountable objection.

[151] This large island across the mouth of the Willamette valley

was by Lewis and Clark named Image-Canoe, later Wappato Island. It

is now known as Sauvie for Jean Baptiste Sauvé, who was for many

years a faithful servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, and maintained

the dairy farm on this island.--ED.

We embarked early the next morning, and at 11 o'clock arrived

at the falls, after encountering some difficulties from rapids,

through which we had to warp our boat.[152] There are here three

falls on a line of rocks extending across the river, which forms

the bed of the upper channel. The water is precipitated through

deep abrazed gorges, and falls perhaps forty feet at an angle of

about twenty degrees. It was a beautiful sight when viewed from a

distance, but it became grand and almost sublime as we approached

it nearer. I mounted the rocks and stood over the highest fall,

and although the roar of the cataract was almost deafening, and

the rays of the bright sun reflected from the white and glittering

foam threatened to deprive me of sight, yet I became so absorbed

in the contemplation of the scene, and the reflections which were

involuntarily excited, as to forget every thing else for the time,

and was only aroused by Captain W. tapping me on the shoulder, and

telling me that every thing was arranged for our return. While I

visited the falls, the captain and his men had found what they

sought for; and the object of our voyage being accomplished, we got

on board immediately and shaped our course down the river with a

fair wind, and the current in favor.

[152] The falls of Willamette were not discovered by Lewis and

Clark, who explored that river only to the site of Portland.

Probably the first white men to visit them were a party led by

Franchère and William Henry in 1814; see Franchère's _Narrative_

in our volume vi, p. 313. McLoughlin staked out a claim around

these falls in 1829, and made some improvements. Later (1840) his

claims were contested, but in 1842 the land was laid off in lots and

entitled Oregon City. The falls are now passed by locks, in order to

facilitate navigation on the upper Willamette.--ED.

About two miles below the cataract is a small village of Klikatat

Indians.[153] Their situation does not appear different from what

we have been accustomed to see in the neighborhood of the fort.

They live in the same sort of miserable loose hovels, and are

the same wretched, squalid looking people. Although enjoying far

more advantages, and having in a much greater degree the means of

rendering themselves comfortable, yet their mode of living, their

garments, their wigwams, and every thing connected with them, is

not much better than the Snakes and {175} Bannecks, and very far

inferior to that fine, noble-looking race, the Kayouse, whom we met

on the _Grand ronde_.

[153] The Klikitat were a Shahaptian tribe, near kin to the Yakima.

Their habitat was on both sides of the Cascade Range, north of

the Columbia. Early in the nineteenth century they made a futile

attempt to settle in the Willamette valley. They were probably the

Wahhowpums of Lewis and Clark.--ED.

A custom prevalent, and almost universal amongst these Indians, is

that of flattening, or mashing in the whole front of the skull, from

the superciliary ridge to the crown. The appearance produced by this

unnatural operation is almost hideous, and one would suppose that

the intellect would be materially affected by it. This, however,

does not appear to be the case, as I have never seen, (with a single

exception, the Kayouse,) a race of people who appeared more shrewd

and intelligent. I had a conversation on this subject, a few days

since, with a chief who speaks the English language. He said that

he had exerted himself to abolish the practice in his own tribe,

but although his people would listen patiently to his talk on most

subjects, their ears were firmly closed when this was mentioned;

"they would leave the council fire, one by one, until none but a few

squaws and children were left to drink in the words of the chief."

It is even considered among them a degradation to possess a round

head, and one whose _caput_ has happened to be neglected in his

infancy, can never become even a subordinate chief in his tribe, and

is treated with indifference and disdain, as one who is unworthy a

place amongst them.

The flattening of the head is practiced by at least ten or twelve

distinct tribes of the lower country, the Klikatats, Kalapooyahs,

and Multnomahs, of the Wallammet, and its vicinity;[154] the

Chinooks, Klatsaps, Klatstonis, Kowalitsks, Katlammets, Killemooks,

and Chekalis of the lower Columbia and its tributaries, and probably

by others both north and south.[155] The tribe called Flatheads,

or _Salish_, who reside near the sources of the Oregon, have long

since abolished this custom.[156]

[154] For the Kalapuya and Multnomah tribes of the Willamette

valley, consult Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, in our volume vii, p. 230,

note 80, and Franchère's _Narrative_ in our volume vi, p. 247, note

53, respectively.--ED.

[155] Consult Franchère's _Narrative_, notes 39, 40, 49, 65, 67, and

Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, pp. 102, 103, note 13.--ED.

[156] For the use of Flathead as a generic term, consult Franchère's

_Narrative_, p. 340, note 145. Lewis and Clark noted that instances

of the custom of flattening the forehead by pressure diminished in

frequency from the coast east: among the tribes of eastern Oregon

and Washington, only an occasional female appeared with flattened

head, while among the coast tribes the custom was universal for both

sexes.--ED.

The mode by which the flattening is effected, varies considerably

with the different tribes. The Wallammet Indians place the infant,

soon after birth, upon a board, to the edges of which {176} are

attached little loops of hempen cord or leather, and other similar

cords are passed across and back, in a zig-zag manner, through these

loops, enclosing the child, and binding it firmly down. To the

upper edge of this board, in which is a depression to receive the

back part of the head, another smaller one is attached by hinges

of leather, and made to lie obliquely upon the forehead, the force

of the pressure being regulated by several strings attached to its

edge, which are passed through holes in the board upon which the

infant is lying, and secured there.

The mode of the Chinooks, and others near the sea, differs widely

from that of the upper Indians, and appears somewhat less barbarous

and cruel. A sort of cradle is formed by excavating a pine log to

the depth of eight or ten inches. The child is placed in it on a bed

of little grass mats, and bound down in the manner above described.

A little boss of tightly plaited and woven grass is then applied

to the forehead, and secured by a cord to the loops at the side.

The infant is thus suffered to remain from four to eight months,

or until the sutures of the skull have in some measure united, and

the bone become solid and firm. It is seldom or never taken from

the cradle, except in case of severe illness, until the flattening

process is completed.[157]

[157] See illustration in _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark

Expedition_, iv, p. 10.--ED.

I saw, to-day, a young child from whose head the board had just

been removed. It was, without exception, the most frightful and

disgusting looking object that I ever beheld. The whole front of

the head was completely flattened, and the mass of brain being

forced back, caused an enormous projection there. The poor little

creature's eyes protruded to the distance of half an inch, and

looked inflamed and discolored, as did all the surrounding parts.

Although I felt a kind of chill creep over me from the contemplation

of such dire deformity, yet there was something so stark-staring,

and absolutely queer in the physiognomy, that I could not repress

a smile; and when the mother amused the little object and made it

laugh, it looked so irresistibly, {177} so _terribly_ ludicrous,

that I and those who were with me, burst into a simultaneous roar,

which frightened it and made it cry, in which predicament it looked

much less horrible than before.

On the 1st of November we arrived at the brig. She was moored, head

and stern, to a large rock near the lower mouth of the Wallammet.

Captain Lambert with his ship's company, and our own mountain men,

were all actively engaged at various employments; carpenters,

smiths, coopers, and other artisans were busy in their several

vocations; domestic animals, pigs, sheep, goats, poultry, &c., were

roaming about as if perfectly at home, and the whole scene looked

so like the entrance to a country village, that it was difficult to

fancy oneself in a howling wilderness inhabited only by the wild

and improvident Indian, and his scarcely more free and fearless

neighbors, the bear and the wolf.[158] An excellent temporary

storehouse of twigs, thatched with grass, has been erected, in which

has been deposited the extensive assortment of goods necessary for

the settlement, as well as a number of smaller ones, in which the

men reside. It is intended as soon as practicable, to build a large

and permanent dwelling of logs, which will also include the store

and trading establishment, and form the groundwork for an _American

fort_ on the river Columbia.

[158] The brig was the "May Dacre;" Captain Lambert had been in

command of Wyeth's earlier vessel, the "Sultana," which was wrecked

on a South Pacific reef. He later made many voyages in command

of various vessels, the last of which sailed from Hawaii to New

Bedford, Massachusetts. He died at "Sailor's Snug Harbor" on Staten

Island. See F. H. Victor, "Flotsom and Jetsom of the Pacific," in

_Oregon Historical Society Quarterly_, ii, pp. 36-54.--ED.

_5th._--Mr. N. and myself are now residing on board the brig, and

pursuing with considerable success our scientific researches through

the neighborhood. I have shot and prepared here several new species

of birds, and two or three undescribed quadrupeds, besides procuring

a considerable number, which, though known to naturalists, are rare,

and therefore valuable. My companion is of course in his element;

the forest, the plain, the rocky hill, and the mossy bank yield him

a rich and most abundant supply.

{178} We are visited daily by considerable numbers of Chinook and

Klikatat Indians, many of whom bring us provisions of various

kinds, salmon, deer, ducks, &c., and receive in return, powder and

shot, knives, paint, and _Indian rum_, i. e. rum and water in the

proportion of one part of the former to two of the latter. Some

of these Indians would be handsome were it not for the abominable

practice, which, as I have said, is almost universal amongst them,

of destroying the form of the head. The features of many are

regular, though often devoid of expression, and the persons of

the men generally are rather symmetrical; their stature is low,

with light sinewy limbs, and remarkably small delicate hands.

The women are usually more rotund, and, in some instances, even

approach obesity. The principal clothing worn by them is a sort

of short petticoat made of strands of pine bark or twisted hempen

strings, tied around the loins like a marro. This article they call

a _kalaquarté_; and is often their only dress; some, however, cover

the shoulders with a blanket, or robe made of muskrat or hare skins

sewed together.[159]

[159] See _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_,

iii, pp. 239-242.--ED.

A disease of a very fatal character is prevalent among these

Indians; many of them have died of it; even some of those in the

neighborhood of the fort, where medical assistance was always at

hand. The symptoms are a general coldness, soreness and stiffness

of the limbs and body, with violent tertian ague. Its fatal

termination is attributable to its tendency to attack the liver,

which is generally affected in a few days after the first symptoms

are developed. Several of the white people attached to the fort have

been ill with it, but no deaths have occurred amongst them, the

disease in their case having yielded to the simple tonic remedies

usually employed at home. This I have no doubt would be equally the

case with the Indians, were they {179} willing to submit to proper

restrictions during the time of administering medicine.

Captain Lambert informs me that on his first landing here the

Indians studiously avoided his vessel, and all kind of intercourse

with his crew, from the supposition, (which they have since

acknowledged) that the malady which they dread so much was thus

conveyed. As in a short time it became desirable, on account of

procuring supplies of provision, to remove this impression, some

pains were taken to convince the Indians of their error, and they

soon visited the ship without fear.

Mr. N. and myself have been anxious to escape the wet and

disagreeable winter of this region, and visit some other portion of

the country, where the inclemency of the season will not interfere

with the prosecution of our respective pursuits. After some

reflection and consultation, we concluded to take passage in the

brig, which will sail in a few weeks for the Sandwich Islands. We

shall remain there about three months, and return to the river in

time to commence our peregrinations in the spring.

_23d._--At Fort Vancouver. A letter was received yesterday by Dr.

McLoughlin, from Captain Wyeth, dated Walla-walla, stating that the

twelve Sandwich Islanders whom he took with him a week since for

a journey to Fort Hall, had deserted, each taking a horse. They

had no doubt heard from some of their countrymen, whom they met at

the fort, of the difficulties of the route before them, which were

probably very much exaggerated. Captain W. is on the alert to find

them, and is sending men on their trail in every direction, but

it is more than probable that they will not be overtaken, and the

consequence will then be, that the expedition must be abandoned, and

the captain return to the fort to spend the winter.