FEEDING.
SHOULD BE A LAST RESORT.
Feeding bees in spring is sometimes absolutely necessary; but in
ordinary seasons and circumstances, it is somewhat doubtful if it is
the surest road to success, for the apiarian to attempt wintering any
stock so poorly supplied with honey, that he feels satisfied will need
feeding in the spring or before. I will recommend in another place (in
fall management) what I consider a better disposition of such light
families. But as some stocks are either robbed, or from some other
cause, consume more honey than we expect, a little trouble and care may
save a loss. Also bees are often fed at this season to promote early
swarming, and filling boxes with surplus honey.
CARE NEEDED.
Considerable care is requisite, and but few know how to manage it
properly. Honey fed to bees, is almost certain to get up quarrels among
them. Sometimes strong stocks scent the honey given to weak ones, and
carry it off as fast as supplied.
APPARENT CONTRADICTION WHEN FEEDING CAUSING STARVATION.
It is possible that feeding a stock of bees in spring, may cause them
to starve! whereas, if let alone, they might escape. Notwithstanding
this looks like a contradiction, I think it appears reasonable.
Whenever the supply of honey is short, probably not more than one egg
in twenty which the queen deposits, will be matured--their means not
allowing the young brood to be fed. This appears from the fact that
several eggs may be found in one cell. I transferred over twenty stocks
in March, 1852--most of the cells occupied with eggs contained a
plurality; two, three, and even four, were found in one cell; it is
evident that all could not be perfected. Also, the fact of these eggs
being at this season on the bottom-board. Now suppose you give such a
stock two or three pounds of honey, and they are encouraged to feed a
large brood, and your supply fails before they are half grown. What are
they to do? destroy the brood and lose all they have fed, or draw on
their old stores for a small quantity to help them in this emergency,
and trust to chance for themselves? The latter alternative will
probably be adopted, and then, without a timely intervention of
favorable weather, the bees starve. The same effect is sometimes
produced by the changes of the weather; a week or two may be very fine
and bring out the flowers in abundance--a sudden change, perhaps frost,
may destroy all for a few days. This makes it necessary to use
considerable vigilance, as these turns of cold weather (when they
occur) make it unsafe, till white clover appears; but if the spring is
favorable, there is but little danger, unless they are robbed. If you
take the necessary care about worms, you will know which are light, and
which heavy, unless your hives are suspended; even then, it is a duty
to know their true condition, in this respect. This is another
advantage of the _simple_ hive; merely raising one edge to destroy
worms, tells you something about the honey on hand. To be very exact,
the hive should be weighed when ready for the bees, and the weight
marked on it; by weighing at any time after, tells at once within a few
pounds of what honey there is on hand. Some allowance must be made for
the age of the combs, the quantity of brood, &c. It is wrong to begin
to feed without being prepared to continue to do so, as the supply must
be kept up till honey is abundant.
HOW LONG IT WILL DO TO WAIT BEFORE FEEDING.
If it is wished to wait as long as possible, and not lose the bees, a
test will be necessary to decide how long it will do to delay feeding.
In this case, _strict attention will be necessary; they will need
examination every morning_. If a light tap on the hive is answered b; a
brisk, lively buzzing, they are not suffering yet; but if no answer is
returned to your inquiry, it indicates a want of strength. Extreme
destitution destroys all disposition to repel an attack. Sometimes a
part of the bees will be too weak to remain among the combs, and will
be lying on the bottom, and some few outside. If the weather is cool,
they appear to be lifeless; yet they can be revived, and now _must he
fed_.
DIRECTIONS FOR FEEDING.
Those among the combs may be able to move, though feebly. When this is
the condition of things, invert the hive, gather up all the scattered
bees, and put them in. Get some honey; if candied, heat it till it
dissolves; comb honey is not so good without mashing; if no honey is to
be had, brown sugar may be taken instead; add a little water, and boil
it till about the consistence of honey, and skim it; when cool enough,
pour a quantity among the combs, directly on the bees; cover the bottom
of the hive with a cloth, securing it firmly, and bring to the fire to
warm up. In two or three hours they will be revived, and may be
returned to the stand, providing the honey given is all taken up; on no
account let any honey run out around the bottom. The necessity of a
daily visit to the hives is apparent from the fact, that if left over
for one day, in the situation just described, it will be too late to
revive them. At night, if you have a box cover, such as I have
recommended, you may open the holes in the top of the hive; fill a
small baking dish with honey or syrup, and set it on the top; put in
some shavings to keep the bees from drowning, or a float may be used if
you choose; it should be made of some very light wood, very thin, and
full of holes or narrow channels, made with a saw. At the commencement
of feeding, a few drops should be scattered on the top of the hive and
trailed to the side of the dish, to teach them the way; after feeding a
few times, they will know the road. When the weather is warm enough for
them to take it during the night, it is best to feed at evening,--from
four to eight ounces daily, is sufficient. If the family is very small,
what honey is left in the morning may attract other bees; it is then
best to take it out, or carry the hive in the house to a dark room,
sufficiently warm, and feed them enough to last several days, and then
return them to the stand; keeping a good lookout that they are not
plundered, and again in a starving condition, until flowers produce
honey sufficient.
WHOLE FAMILIES MAY DESERT THE HIVE.
When you have the means to keep up a supply of food, and time requisite
to make feeding secure, perhaps it would not be advisable to wait till
the last extremity before feeding, as a small family will sometimes
entirely desert the hive, when destitute, if it occurs before they have
much brood. In these cases, they issue precisely as a swarm; after
flying a long time, they either return, or unite with some other stock.
If they return, they need attention immediately. You may be certain
there is something wrong, let the desertion take place when it may; in
spring it may be destitution, or mouldy combs; at other times the
presence of worms, diseased brood, &c. By whatever cause it is
produced, ascertain it, and apply the remedy.
OBJECTIONS TO GENERAL FEEDING.
I have known it recommended, and practised by some apiarians, to feed
bees all at once in the open air, in a large trough; but whoever
realizes much profit by this method, will be very fortunate, as every
stock in the neighborhood will soon scent it out, and carry off a good
share, and nearly every stock at home will be in contention, and great
numbers killed; the moment the honey is out, their attention is
directed to other stocks. Another objection to this general feeding is,
that some stocks are not necessitated at all, while others need it; but
the strongest stock is pretty sure to get the most. NOW, as I cannot
afford to divide with my neighbors in this way of feeding, and I
suppose but few will be found who are willing to do it, I will give my
method, which, when once arranged, is but little trouble.
ARRANGEMENT FOR FEEDING.
I got a tinman to make some dishes, two inches deep, 10x12 inches
square, and perpendicular sides. A board was then got out, fifteen
inches wide, and two feet long; two inches from one end, a hole is cut
out the longest way, just the size of the dish, so that it will set in
just even with the upper side of the board; a good fit should be made,
so that no bees can get in around it; cleats should be nailed on the
under side of the board, some over an inch thick, to prevent crowding
the dish out. This is to go directly under the hive, but it is not
ready yet, because if such dish is filled with honey under a hive, the
bees would drown; if a float is put on to keep them out, it will settle
to the bottom when the honey is out, and the bees cannot creep up the
sides of tin very easily. Another thing, there is nothing to prevent
the bees from making their combs to the bottom of this dish, two inches
below the bottom of the hive; these things are to be prevented. Get out
two pieces of half-inch board, ten inches long, one to be two inches
wide, the other one and a half inches. With a coarse or thick saw, cut
channels in the side of the strips, one-fourth inch deep, three-eighths
or half an inch apart, crosswise the whole length. You will then want a
number corresponding to the places sawed, of very thin shingles, or
strips, say one-eighth of an inch thick, and one and three-fourths
wide, and nine and a half long; these are to stand edgewise in the
dish; the first two are to hold them in the channels at the ends. The
narrow one needs a block one-half inch square, nailed on each end; on
the edge, a strip of wire cloth is then nailed on, making the whole
width just two inches. This is now put in the dish, wire cloth at the
bottom, two inches from one end; two pins to act as braces will keep it
there; the other wide one is placed against the other end, and pressed
down even with the top of the dish. The thin pieces are now slipped
into the channels even with the top; it is now ready to go under the
hive to be fed. Let the two-inch space project out on the back side of
the hive. A narrow board should be provided, some more than two inches
wide, to cover it. Let the hive stand close on this board; the hole in
the side is sufficient for the passage of bees at work, till very hot
weather. Thus you see that the hive covers all but the space behind,
which the board covers, and not a strange bee can get at the honey,
without entering the hole at the side, and passing through among the
bees belonging to the hive, which they will not often do; if the family
is numerous, it makes it as safe as feeding on the top; with this
advantage, there are no bees in the way to interfere while pouring in
the food. When the bees are to be fed, raise the board at the back and
pour in the honey; the wire-cloth in the bottom prevents all bees from
entering this space, at the same time will let the honey pass through
directly under the bees, which will take it up quicker than from any
other place that I can put it; they will work all night even when the
weather is quite cool. This board and feeder can be taken out when done
feeding, and put away till wanted again; if left under through the
summer, it affords the worms a place rather too convenient to spin
their cocoons, where they are not easily destroyed.
FEEDING TO INDUCE EARLY SWARMS.
If the object in feeding is to induce early swarms, of course the best
stocks should be chosen for the purpose; but some care is necessary not
to give too much, and fill the combs with honey, that ought to be
filled with brood, and thereby defeat your object; one pound per day is
enough, perhaps too much. The quantity obtained from flowers is a
partial guide; when plenty, feed less; when scarce, more. Begin as soon
as you can make them take it up in spring, and continue in accordance
with the weather, till white clover blossoms, or swarms issue. Another
object in feeding bees at this period, is to have the store combs all
filled with inferior honey, so that when clover appears, (which yields
our best honey,) there is no room except in the boxes to store it,
which are now put on, and rapidly filled. When this last object is
alone wished for, it is not much matter how much is given at a time,
providing it is all taken up through the night; it will then take no
time in day-light, when they might work on flowers; also, the bees
would have no trouble in repelling any attempt of others to get at it.
WHAT MAY BE FED.
Inferior honey may be used for this purpose; Southern or West India is
good, and costs but little. Even molasses sugar mixed with it will do;
but they do not relish it so well when fed without the honey. I have
usually taken about equal quantities of each, adding a pint of water to
ten pounds of this mixture, and making it as hot as it will bear
without boiling over, and skimming it.
IS CANDIED HONEY INJURIOUS?
There has an idea been advanced, that candied honey is injurious to
bees, even said to be fatal. I never could discover any thing further,
than it was a perfect waste, while in this state. When boiled, and a
little water added, it appears to be just as good as any. Nearly every
stock will have more or less of it on hand at this season; but as warm
weather approaches, and the bees increase to warm the hive, it seems to
get liquified, from this cause alone. The bees, when compelled to use
honey from these cells, thus candied, waste a large portion; a part is
liquid, and the rest is grained like sugar, which may be seen on the
bottom-board, as the bees work it out very often. Another object in
feeding bees, is to give inferior honey, mixed with sugar and flavored
to suit the taste, to the bees, and let them store it in boxes for
market. Now, I have no faith in honey undergoing any chemical change in
the stomach of the bee,[14] and cannot recommend this as the honest
course. Neither do I think it would be very profitable, feeding to this
extent, under any circumstances. I have a few times had some boxes
nearly finished and fit for market at the end of the honey season; a
little more added would make them answer. I have then fed a few pounds
of good honey, but always found that several pounds had to be given the
bees to get one in the boxes.
[14] Mr. Gillman's patent for feeding bees, is based on the
principle of a chemical change. It is said that the food he gives
to the bees, when poured into the cells, becomes honey of the
first quality. This appears extremely mysterious; for it is well
understood that when a bee has filled its sack it will go to the
hive, deposit its load, and return immediately for more; and will
continue its labor throughout the day, or until the supply fails;
each load occupying but few minutes. The time in going from the
feeder to the hive is so short that a change so important is not
at all probable. The nature of bees seems to be to _collect_
honey, not _make_ it; hence we find, when bees are gathering from
clover, they store quite a different article than when from
buckwheat,--or when we feed West India honey, in quantities
sufficient to have it stored _pure_ in the boxes, we find that it
has lost none of its bad taste in passing through the sacks of
our northern bees.
It appears most probable that, if Southern honey and cheap sugar
form the basis of his food, (which it is said to,) that it is
flavored with something to disguise the disagreeable qualities of
the compound. Should this be the secret, it would seem like a
waste to feed it to bees--a portion would be given to the brood,
and possibly the old bees might not always refrain from sipping a
little of the tempting nectar. Why not, when the compound was
ready,--instead of wasting it by this process,--put it directly
in market? Or, is it necessary to have it in the combs to help
psychologize the consumer into the belief that it is honey of a
pure quality?